kevinEats

Sushi Zo Downtown
334 S Main St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.935.8409
Fri 10/11/2013, 07:10p-09:20p

Zo Exterior

Since opening in 2006, Keizo Seki's Sushi Zo has resolutely established itself as one of LA's most beloved bastions of sushi, known for its pristine fish, warm rice, and marathon omakases, not to mention the Chef's sometimes reserved demeanor. Personally, I'd always thought that the place was top-notch, easily among the best in the City, so I was pretty excited to hear that a Downtown location, simply named "Zo," was opening up in September, set on the ground floor of the Medallion complex. A visit, naturally, was in order.

Unlike at the original restaurant, where going à la carte was a possibility at a table, it appears that the new Zo is an omakase-only sort of affair. I didn't try to test this, however, as I took a seat at the 10-seater bar and let the Chefs do their thing, which resulted in a 34-course tasting priced at a not-unreasonable $165.97. As such, I didn't see an actual menu, save for the beverage list above, which featured a smattering of higher-end sakes, two beers, and Luis Roederer Champagne, Louis' Spanish cousin apparently. Click for a larger version.

Orion

To start, we opted for a round of Orion [$6.50], sort of your typical Japanese beer--always a crisp, refreshing, and safe choice with sushi.

1: Kumamoto
Let the eating begin. From Washington state came none other than my go-to oyster. It was a shining example of all that's great about Kumamotos, with its creamy, yet somehow crisp bite and lingering brine, softened by the application of zesty ponzu, scallion, and momiji oroshi.

2: Mebachi Sashimi
Slices of Boston bigeye were meaty and satisfying, with a palpable, umami-rich depth courtesy of the soy sauce, along with a smart exclamation point of wasabi toward the end.

3: Akachan Awabi
Baby abalone from Morro Bay was split between our party of three, its crisp bite and sweet salinity tempered by blasts of salt and spice from the accompanying yuzukosho.

4: Uni Ika Somen
Baby squid noodles, tossed with sea urchin and dusted with truffle salt, were divine. They were absolutely delightful texturally--crisp, yet supple--with a delicate savor to them that blended beautifully with the lush, creamy, salt-laced roe, all while the earthy veil of truffle encompassed the entire dish.

Kurage

5: Kurage
Japanese jellyfish was next, and it was all about a study in textures, its slippery, crunchy consistency a delight for the palate. In terms of taste, the kurage didn't offer up much, so the combo of sweet vinegar miso paste and savory seaweed was absolutely key.

Gari

The appearance of pickled ginger signaled the start of our nigiri gauntlet.

Hirame

6: Hirame
We commenced with something mild: East Coast halibut, sprinkled with salt. I found this one super tender, with a delicate base of flavor highlighted by the interplay between the shio and an almost citrus-y tartness present.

Binnaga

7: Binnaga
Albacore arrived doused in ponzu. Think focused, classic flavors, with a great accent piece from the ginger-scallion combination.

Hamachi

8: Hamachi
Japanese yellowtail was definitely a cut above what you typically get, with a clean, not overtly fatty character and an almost "hammy" savor to it.

Aji

9: Aji
"Spanish mackerel" (really horse mackerel--I still don't get why they switch up the names all the time) was a great example of the fish, with a refined brine that went superbly with the integrating zing of the ginger.

Hotate

10: Hotate
Scallop from the East Coast was spot on: firm, yet yielding to the bite, with a mild sweetness and undercurrent of salinity that transitioned seamlessly to the heat of wasabi on the close.

11: Mebachi Chutoro
The Boston big eye from above reappeared, this time in chutoro form. There was a distinct sweetness here that I rather liked, with a medium amount of marbling that was nicely set off by the depth and richness imparted by the soy sauce.

12: Koban Aji
Pompano from the East Coast was a rare treat, something that I believe I'd only had at Nana San (one of OC's best) prior. The crux here was that topping of roasted shishito, which imparted a fantastic smokiness and piquancy to the fish that was pure genius.

13: Kanpachi
Here was amberjack, as firm and substantial as you'd expect, with a gorgeous hit of yuzukosho and wasabi to go along with the fish's undertone of sweetness.

14: Kinmedai
The golden eye snapper was delicious, probably one of my favorites in fact, with its surprising luxuriousness and even more surprising saccharine quality on the finish.

Ankimo

15: Ankimo
Monkfish liver came out warm, with a very delicate, subtle liver-y essence to it that I really liked, especially when paired with the contrasting combo of nori and negi. Interestingly, I swear I tasted flashes of Jack in the Box tacos when eating this, not necessarily a bad thing mind you (at three for 99 cents, they were a college staple of mine).

Sanma

16: Sanma
Pacific saury, or mackerel pike, was another rarity, and a highlight as well. The fish was uncommonly fatty, oily even, with a firm body and a great counterweight from the ginger and scallion. Some beautiful scoring on the sanma's silvery skin here, too.

Tara

17: Tara
Black cod arrived seared and accompanied by a miso vinegar paste. I loved the soft, silken texture of the fish here, as well as its char savor. The miso imparted a definite sweetness into the mix, so you had to be careful not to use too much of it, lest you mask the main ingredient.

Kurodai

18: Kurodai
From Greece came black snapper, garnished with truffle salt. Texturally, the fish was a unique blend of creamy, yet firm, while its relish was subtle, duly enhanced by the earthy overtones in the course.

Tako

19: Tako
Steamed octopus hailed from Spain, and was drizzled with eel sauce. It was surely one of the strongest presentations of tako I've had, with the meat coming out tender and wonderfully smoky, moderated by the sugary sauce and a burst of 'sabi zip.

With the beers all drunk up, we moved on to sake, specifically the Senchuhassaku [$70], which, coincidentally enough, was the exact same bottle we had on our first Sushi Zo visit. It was a tokubetsu junmai-shu class sake from Kochi prefecture's Tsukasabotan brewery, and I found it very light in body, with a distinct floral character over a base of dry, rice-y nuances.

Sawara

20: Sawara
The term sawara should refer to Spanish mackerel (itself oft mislabeled as aji), but here were told that this was king mackerel. Nomenclature aside, this was a delectable little bite: soft and sweet, with a great ginger-y smack.

Mirugai

21: Mirugai
Geoduck was crunchy and unabashedly ocean-y, just as you'd expect, but also conveyed an apparent sweetness to it that went along great with the pinpoints of salt in the course.

22: Sumi Ika
Ink squid was all that you'd want it to be: sticky and creamy on the palate, with a soft sweetness to it that melded well with the heat of wasabi.

Madai

23: Madai
Red sea bream came with a brush of yuzu, its mild savor complemented by the competing forces of tangy citrus and spicy 'sabi.

24: Shima Aji
Yellow striped jack is always a winner, with a wonderful soy-tinged depth to it and a real complexity compared to some of the other fish.

Amaebi

25: Amaebi
Sweet shrimp from Santa Barbara was delightfully snappy, and full of clean, sweet-saline flavors that made perfect sense with a dab of soy.

26: Uni & Ikura
Next up was some egg-on-egg action. Uni wasn't from Santa Barbara as you'd expect, but rather was sourced further south, from San Diego. It was sweet, but not as sweet as the SB variety, and had a steelier minerality to it that showed traces of its Hokkaido brethren. The salmon roe, meanwhile, was a marinated, classic example of the gunkanmaki, its saltiness arriving in glorious bursts of brine.

Anago

27: Anago
Sea eel made a strong case for itself. I found it hearty and satisfying, with a great char astringency to it that melded well with the sugary sauce drizzled on top.

Sake

28: Sake
Scottish salmon was presented with a rectangle of translucent marinated kelp. Think sweet and oh-so fatty, with the seaweed serving as a piquant balance to the lushness of the fish.

29: Akachan Madai
Baby sea bream was boiled briefly in hot water, which resulted in a particularly soft texture and a surprisingly complexity rendered in yuzu and salt.

30: Chutoro Temaki
And the hand rolls begin. A tube of medium fatty tuna was creamy on the palate, with a strong hit of wasabi and a crisp, countering seaweed wrapper.

31: Watarigani Temaki
The blue crab hand roll (first popularized by Sushi Nozawa) was even better, with the sweet, cool crab on proud display, perfectly paired with the rice and nori.

Tamago

32: Tamago
You always end with tamago, and so here we were. It was a traditional rendition of the egg omelet--sweet, cool, and dense, with a ham-like savor that lingered on just below the surface.

33: Misoshiru
A classic, comforting miso soup was well received.

34: Yuzu Jusu
As always, a meal at Zo ends with a shot of yuzu juice, a sweet, sour, utterly refreshing liquid that doubles as an effective palate cleanser.

The Zo team: Keizo-san, Nori-san, Masa-san (our itamae for the night, a former Nana San chef who moved up to LA to work here).

All in all, a fantastic experience (and bonus points for running into Food Club Captain Eric Wareheim, who was seated at a table behind us). Have no doubt, the bar for sushi in Downtown has been raised, far, far beyond anything else that's being offered at the moment. There's nothing that even comes close in the area. In fact, I think I like this place even better than the original Sushi Zo. The fish, the shari, even the service, everything was pretty much spot on. It was one of my best sushi experiences ever in LA, and to top it all off, Keizo-san seemed rejuvenated, reinvigorated, with a friendlier demeanor (shared by all three chefs) that made the meal all the better. Sushi fiends, this is one that has to be on your hit list.

Sushi Zo, unfortunately, never really did desserts, so the last time we were there, we headed to the Rite Aid across the parking lot to pick up some Thrifty brand ice cream in order to cap off the night. To keep with tradition, we located a Rite Aid at 5th and Broadway and walked on over following dinner.

On the way, however, we stumbled upon Peddler's Creamery and decided to stop in. I opted for a Double Scoop [$6.50] comprised of their vegan Mexican Chocolate and Cardamom, which I also believe was vegan. The chocolate was tasty enough, but, unsurprisingly, didn't quite have the lushness or richness of a classic ice cream given its lack of dairy. This austerity was more apropos in the Cardamom, which showed off a wonderful sweet spice that I rather liked, especially when taken in concert with the chocolate.

Rite Aid (Thrifty) Ice Cream

We did eventually reach our initial destination though. Again, I went with a Double Dip [$2.49] of Chocolate Malted Krunch (my childhood fav) and Black Cherry, the combo I enjoyed last time. I don't think Thrifty's and its signature cylindrical scoops will ever get old. It's a sort of old-school style of ice cream that always brings me back--a perfect, if somewhat nostalgic conclusion to the evening.

Taberna Arroz y Vi
1403 2nd St, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.393.3663
www.tabernala.com
Thu 10/17/2013, 07:35p-10:00p

I finally made it out to the new Taberna Arros y Vi, Michael Cardenas' Spanish concept that's been in work since early 2011, when it was slated to be housed in the old Beacon building in Culver City (now the site of Evan Funke's Bucato). However, that deal fell through, so in April of last year it was announced that Cardenas would instead be taking over Tudor House on 2nd, with Perfecto Rocher (who was then biding his time at Lazy Ox, serving as a replacement for opening chef Josef Centeno) at the helm. The place was originally scheduled for a late 2012 debut, but in October last year the Chef had a falling out with Cardenas and left both the Ox and Taberna.

Rocher was replaced by Travis Chase from The Tin Table in Seattle, and went on to work briefly for the Hermosa Restaurant Group (a planned Spanish eatery in the old Hibachi location) before decamping this October to head up Adam Fleischman's upcoming smoke.oil.salt (at the former Angeli Caffe space, which was supposed to house Casey Lane's Itri). Chase, meanwhile, was supplanted in May (he's now works for Nordstrom) by Hiroyuki Fujita of the dearly departed Fat Spoon, which brings us back to Taberna. The end result of all the chef shuffling was that the restaurant ended up opening in the summer, with Verite Mazzola, a longtime LA dining veteran, in charge.

About the Chef: Born in 1970 to an Italian family, Mazzola is a third generation Californian who started her culinary career at age 19, working for none other than Wolfgang Puck. She went to school at the Culinary Institute of America out in New York, but ended up making her way back to Los Angeles, working as a pastry chef. One of her first stops was at Drago, which was followed up by a tenure at Chasen's Beverly Hills in 1997. Mazzola went up north the following year, cooking at Rubicon and One Market in San Francisco before leaving for New York in 1999. There, she served as pastry chef for Michael Otsuka (former Exec Chef at Patina, back when it was still at the Providence address) at his place Thalia. During this period, she managed to cook at the James Beard house twice, once with Otsuka and once for their "Chefs & Champagne 2000" event.

However, Mazzola eventually moved back to LA in late 2000, finding work in pastry at Cafe del Rey and then Napa Valley Grille (which both had the same parent company, Constellation Concepts). This was followed by a stint at Whist at the Viceroy, and by the middle of 2005, she had taken on the Pastry Chef role at Govind Armstrong's Table 8, and would later move to Miami to open up Table 8 in the Regent South Beach hotel. Interestingly, Mazzola then hooked up with Armstrong's former compatriot Ben Ford in '06 (they were partners at Chadwick back in the early 2000's) and became the opening Sous Chef-slash-Pastry Chef at Ford's Filling Station.

She then began consulting, and partnered with Blau + Associates on the launch of both the Huntley Hotel and the Terranea Resort, and even spent the summer of 2007 in Asia, working as sous for Rodelio Aglibot (Yi Cuisine, Koi) at Shangri-La resorts in Hong Kong and Manila. Later that year, Mazzola took on a position at the new Akasha (two doors down from FFS), and then moved to across the street to Rush Street in 2008. After a few months in Rome, she became Executive Chef at Westwood's Palomino in 2010, and wound up co-authoring a cookbook (Cook!: Easy Recipes For the Busy Wellness Warrior) with "certified holistic wellness coach" Jovanka Ciares in 2012. She stayed at Palomino until earlier this year, when she was tapped by Cardenas to head up Taberna.

The menu here at Taberna Arros y Vi, unsurprisingly, focuses on tapas, but there's a good selection of heartier paellas and larger plates as well. To drink, think a fun selection of sangrias and low-proof cocktails (a full liquor license is in the works), along with a Spanish- and Italian-focused wine list. Click for larger versions.

Honey Grapefruit / Beer Sangria

Honey Grapefruit [$8.00] | fresh grapefruit, honey syrup, sparkling wine
Beer Sangria [$8.00] | pear, oj, estrella damm beer
Speaking of those sangrias, we began with a twosome. The Honey Grapefruit was as lighthearted as the name would suggest, imbued with a sparkling effervescence and a saccharine, honeyed base balanced by the tart, acidic nature of grapefruit. The aptly-named Beer Sangria, meanwhile, was all about its bready, malty base that really highlighted the Estrella, all while the orange and pear added contrasting sweet and sour layers on top.

Scallop Ceviche [$13.00] | confit garlic butter, sweet pickled fennel, pickled radish, petals, capers
We began with a scallop ceviche, and here, the use of pickled fennel and radish imparted a sweet, tangy verve to the bivalves that sort of offset the force of those capers.

Crispy Pig Ears [$9.00] | salsa verde, harissa aioli
Orejas de cerdo were a must-try for me, and arrived in a healthy portion. They were just what I wanted: crisp, crunchy, yet chewy and a bit gelatinous, and just brimming with pork-y savor. The ears were certainly satisfying alone, but even better when taken with a squirt of lemon and a dip in the included condiments.

Steelhead Carpaccio [$18.00] | black truffle, burrata, arugula, heirloom tomato
A carpaccio of trout was surprisingly briny, and firm to the bite, with the richness of the burrata and bitter arugula serving to moderate the potency of the fish, all while the truffle tried to impart just a hint of earthiness to the fray. The flavors made sense here, but the dish didn't come together as well as I'd hoped.

Grilled Asparagus w/ Dried Tuna [$11.00] | grilled asparagus, romesco sauce
Asparagus was quite good, the spears' crisp, trademark bitterness enhanced with char savor and the added depth of the dried tuna. Romesco, meanwhile, was a fitting complement, its piquant zing a keen counterpoint to the vegetable.

Mussels

Mussels [$15.00] | spicy butter, blue cheese, chorizo
These green-lipped mussels must've been the largest I've had, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. They were pretty much spot on in terms of texture, and their inherent brine was deftly paired with the dish's spicy, sour-ish broth, which was fortunately subtle on the blue cheese. Tasty.

Fava Bean Toast [$10.00] | grilled bread, fresh fava bean mash, burrata cheese
What basically amounted to fava bean crostini were nice, conveying the cool, creamy nature of the burrata against the subtly tangy mash. My concern here was that the toast verged on overly tough, taking away from the experience.

Red Pepper [$8.00] | la quinta spirit, chardonnay, bell pepper, cilantro
The Red Pepper sangria really showed off the light, bright essence of bell pepper, along with a great veil of cilantro herbaceousness and a bit of creeping spice toward the back end.

Paella Valenciana [$22.00] | chorizo, chicken, fabada beans, saffron, lemon
Of course, we had to try a paella, and ended up going with pretty much the most traditional possible. The chicken formed an apt base to the dish, tarted up by the pervasive spice of the chorizo, all while the beans served up an almost cassoulet-like heartiness. However, the lemon ended up being too much of a dominant force here, imparting sort of a discordant sourness to the paella. At the same time though, I would've appreciated more brightness in the dish, perhaps with the addition of some veggies. Nice texture on the socarrat, though.

Chocolate/Caramel Bread Pudding [$9.00] | cinnamon brioche, caramel sauce, chocolate bits, crushed peanut brittle, vanilla ice cream
We were pretty full by this point, and thus opted for a single dessert. It was a winner though, a sweet 'n' spicy blast of chocolate-y, cinnamon-y flair countered by the vanilla ice cream, all while the brittle added a lovely textural component to the dish.

I'm glad that Taberna--a long time in the making--was finally able to come to fruition. It's a welcomed addition to an area that could really use some more quality restaurants. The Spanish-focused cooking represents a nice change of pace, and the plates generally satisfied, though a bit of tweaking for some of the dishes would definitely elevate the experience. Service, headed by GM Wes Zelio, was on point, and I'm curious to see where the cocktail program goes with the addition of a full bar, so this could be one to watch.

Orsa and Winston Restaurant
122 W 4th St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.687.0300
www.orsaandwinston.com
Fri 10/25/2013, 09:00p-12:55a

Orsa & Winston Exterior

If you're like me, you've kept an eye on Josef Centeno over the past few years. The Chef first made a name for himself around these parts when he was doing his multi-course tastings at Opus back in '06. He left there in January 2008 though, and spent some time planning his own place, Volver, before taking over the kitchen at Lot 1 in Echo Park. The partnership ultimately ended up disastrously, and Centeno largely stayed out of the public eye until late 2009. That was when he joined forces with Michael Cardenas to open Lazy Ox Canteen, which was sort of the first step on his real return to LA dining. The accolades garnered there allowed the Chef to open Bäco Mercat in late 2011, and then Bar Amá a year later.

However, Baco and Ama are decidedly casual affairs, and all this time, Centeno was still yearning to get back into something a bit schmancier. The result of this latent desire manifested itself in the form of Orsa & Winston, the restaurant that he wanted to do post-Opus, but couldn't. Named after the Chef's two dogs, it's located right next door to Bar Amá, and features cooking inspired by the culinary traditions of both Japan and Italy. O&W debuted on September 24th via a special MasterCard promotion, and opened to the public shortly afterward. Centeno is joined here by Director of Operations Mike Hoagland, GM/Wine Director Sally Kim, Pastry Chef Isa Fabro, and Sous Chefs Joel Stovell and Susan Yoon.

Orsa & Winston Interior

Orsa & Winston is small, comprising roughly 1500sqft between both the dining room and the kitchen. The roughly 34-seat space was penned by Amaryllis Knight of ALTAI Studio and showcases a pretty subtle aesthetic, a fitting canvas for the food I guess.

Orsa & Winston Kitchen Counter

The best seats in the house are, unsurprisingly, situated at the four-seater, Caesarstone-topped counter (reminiscent of the one in my own kitchen), which affords diners a view of the hustle and bustle of the gleaming, open kitchen.

As far as Orsa & Winston's menu goes, there are a lot of options here. Starting at the top, we opted for the roughly 25-course "Super-Omakase," priced at $195 per head and which is only available at the bar with prior reservation. There's also the standard nine-course Omakase at $95, a five-course tasting at $60, a family-style four-courser at $50, and if that wasn't enough, even a few limited à la carte selections as well. Now, for the tipple, Sally Kim's in charge of the beverage program, which includes a well-curated wine list and a smattering of beers and sakes. Corkage is set at $35, with a one bottle limit, a recent change from the $25/two bottle limit policy they had not too long ago. Click for larger versions.

We ended up purchasing a fun bottle from the list to start things off, the Mercat Cava Brut NV [$40]. This was an easy-drinking, though not particularly contemplative sparkler, full of lemon and stone fruit, yet balanced with a dry, yeasty character to it. A tasty way to kick things off.

1: fennel panna cotta with tonburi, wheat cracker
Serving as a sort of amuse bouche was a fennel panna cotta with potato-leek mousse, mountain caviar, and wheat cracker crumbles. Think creamy, herbal, and anise-laced flavors, leading to a muted sweetness, all set off by the countering crunch of the tonburi.

2: white anchovy with cubeb-honey, tonnato
Next was Centeno's delectable take on the tapas dish boquerones fritos, the anchovy's fishiness leading to a sweet, spicy, lingering midpalate, with the pickled yucca and pepper imparting a well-suited brightness to things. I could've used a whole plate of these.

3: kanpachi with shishito, satsuma, shiso
Amberjack arrived with a quartet of Japanese accompaniments, its brine transitioning to an enduring, tangy sweetness tempered by the slight heat from the togarashi.

4: breakfast in shell, semolina, pancetta, sherry cream
One of the favorites of the night was this homage to Alain Passard's legendary Arpège egg, which I found quite similar to Manresa's well-known version (recall, Centeno worked there as well). It was comprised of coddled egg, sherry vinegar, maple syrup, chive, and pancetta, with the creamy lushness of the egg gorgeously balanced by the tart and sweet notes present, while the lardons at the bottom added a wonderful hit of salt to the fray. Nice temperature contrast here, too.

5: milk-bread focaccia with butter, testa
Orsa & Winston's bread course was another standout. The bread itself ostensibly combines Japanese milk bread with focaccia from Baco Mercat, and was delicious on its own, a great blend of a crisp exterior and a silken center. The oregano butter that came with was super soft, and subtly herby, a fantastic accoutrement to the bread. Even better, though, were the slivers of pork testa with shiso and capers, which spent 12 hours in the oven. Herby, oily, slick, and unabashedly porcine, they formed an in-your-face blast of meaty goodness that complemented the bread in commendable fashion.

6: beef carpaccio with mushroom conserva, charred leek, sardo
A carpaccio of American beef brought together pickled mushrooms, black truffle, Sardo, and Champagne raisins. The meat itself was slick and slippery, with an olive oil-y weight to it that served as a counterpoint to the herby, pickle-y qualities of the dish, all while the cheese imparted a great bit of saltiness to the mix. However, I really would've appreciated a knife here, so that I could've more easily cut the beef.

7: castel franco with mango, pear, gorgonzola bottarga
Shreds of speckled Castelfranco paired well with Gorgonzola and mango, the delightfully bittersweet qualities of the radicchio working beautifully with the contrasting forces of sweet and salt present. Lovely crunch here, too.

Two Burgundies were BYOB'd tonight, the first of which was the 2011 Val de Mer Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir. I quite liked this one, its floral, grassy, slightly spicy qualities complemented by a mineral-y backbone and a certain roundness, which only increased with time in the glass.

8: matsutake with razor clam, dashi-beet emulsion garbanzo, chinese cedar
I'm a sucker for razor clams, so perhaps it's no surprise that this was probably my favorite course of the night. I loved the texture of the clams here, and their inherent salinity was faultlessly played against the smoky undercurrent present, with the beets imparting a certain brightness to the dish. Even better? The earthy, hefty garbanzos, which really grounded the dish.

9: cardoon with anchovy, shaved fresh porcini, black garlic
Cardoons were bright and crunchy, their slightly acerbic, vegetal savor working hand in hand along with the piquant tastes of the fermented garlic and anchovy combo, all while the porcini actually help moderate the dish. Very neat.

10: snap pea with burrata, meyer lemon, cucumber leaf
Another one of my favs was this presentation of sugar snap peas with burrata and meyer lemon marmalade. The vibrant, saccharine crunch of the peas was gorgeously conveyed here, really giving us a crystal clear picture of the veggie that was modulated by the lushness of the burrata, with the lemon contributing a sour accent piece to the course.

11: live scallop, spigarello, ham, shellfish béarnaise
Live scallop was presented in situ, served with roe, butter, and a truffle béarnaise. It was delicious, and one of the most luxurious preparations of the ingredient I've had, the butter and truffle really melding well together and adding a seldom seen layer of decadence to the bivalve. I loved the crispy breadcrumbs tossed on top as well, and I could've really used some more of that milk bread to sop up the remaining liquid!

12: abalone with burnt milk, pomelo, onion jus, nasturtium
Abalone came with an intriguing burnt milk panna cotta, resulting in a sweet, smoky, almost vanilla ice cream-like sapor to go along with the pleasantly chewy bits of gastropod, interjected by pops of tartness from the pommelo vesicles.

13: chicken liver mousse with thomcord jam, bread crisps
Chicken liver mousse arrived silky and smooth, imbued with its unmistakable, earthy musk. It was a fine presentation of the delicacy. However, the included thomcord jam verged on overly sugary, thus masking some of the liver's character.

14: spaghettini with uni butter, salmon roe, wasabi
Pasta made its first appearance with this excellent course of spaghetti, done up with white soy and salmon roe. The noodles themselves were properly al dente, with the incorporation of yuzu and ikura giving up a zesty, piquant blast that made the dish instantly Japanese-y. I wouldn't have minded a whole plate of the stuff.

15: sawara with puttanesca, caper, basil
Sawara is something I rarely get to enjoyed cooked, a shame, because here it was superb. The Spanish mackerel itself was deftly prepared, with a satisfying texture and its signature salinity intact, but the key was that sugo alla puttanesca, which contributed a classic tomato-based, caper-laced counterweight that finished out the fish beautifully.

16: satsuki rice with uni, geoduck, tangerine lace
Here, we had a risotto of sorts, but one made with Koshihikari from Uruguay I believe. Think starchy and heady, with the heft of the Pecorino balanced by the sweet, tangy nuances in the rice, while the manila clam and urchin providing the expected ocean-y flavors. I wanted a larger bowl!

The second Burg came in the form of a 2009 Domaine du Château de Chorey Beaune 1er Cru Les Cras Vieilles Vignes. This one seemed very tight at first, without much in terms of aroma and a smoky-tannic nature with very little fruit. It did get more pleasing to me in time, though, with the cherried qualities and minerality coming through more and more.

17: john dory with braised beans, salsa verde, yuzu kosho
The Dory was another highlight for me. The fish was cooked perfectly, with a fantastic bit of crust and a great depth of savor that was expertly paired with the citrus-y, herb-y notes present, while the beans added a great heft and texture to things.

18: squab with kuri squash, fennel jus, flowering fennel
Squab had a delightful char on it, which imparted a bitter savor that worked in harmony with the immensely satisfying slices of the bird. The use of red curry and fennel imparted further facets to the course, but the squash went overly saccharine, distracting me from the other great things going on here. I would've liked something more astringent, vegetal to go along.

19: honey-ham cap with tomato, sorrel
Ham cap was just brimming with porcine richness, a commingling of lean and fat that was squelched in part by the sugary honey and tart tomato jam. However, I really needed a bigger piece here, so that I could've better appreciated the textures and body of the meat.

20: agnolotti with lamb cheek, sardo, rye, mint lavender
Our final savory course of the night was also our most substantial: an Okinawan potato agnolotti stuffed with braised lamb cheek. The tender shards of meat showed off all the deep, dark flavors that you'd expect, but once again, I found the sweetness here a bit too strong. Satisfying in a straightforward manner.

21: pomegranate granita, meyer lemon
A pomegranate granité with lavender and meyer lemon served as a very smart intermezzo, its fruity, floral, minty qualities working as an effective palate cleanser after the heavier coursed that preceded it.

22: custard with grapefruit, coconut tapioca
Next, vanilla custard was joined by coconut tapioca, blood orange caramel, and a grapefruit granita, the vanilla and coconut forming a great combination that did a nice job playing off each other, with the caramel and grapefruit forming a sugary sweet base to the dessert. Lovely crunch here from the tuile, too.

23: blood orange pavlova, basil seeds
A blood orange pavlova was superb, the bittersweet, aromatic nuances from the citrus-basil interplay wonderfully tempered by the light crunch of that meringue.

24: pear strudel with honey cassis
My favorite of the desserts was the pear-ricotta strudel with honey, cassis, and brown butter streusel. The key here was how the initial sweet-n-spicy flavors transitioned to the clean, crisp essence of pear, with the savory crust and brown butter coming in toward the end.

25: hazelnut chocolate with butterscotch-rosemary
The requisite chocolate dessert brought us a hazelnut-chocolate cake topped with whipped crème fraîche, with butterscotch, rosemary, and a hazelnut toffee. Think your classic chocolate-hazelnut flavors here, but greatly enhanced by the butterscotch and toffee, with the rosemary adding a fantastic aromatic component that really tied everything together.

26: ninjabread
To close: fun "ninja-bread" men: a new school look, old school cookie taste.

I think we've all been keeping tabs on what Josef Centeno's been up to these past few years, and it was great to see the Chef finally back in the kitchen, cooking in a smaller format and in a style that better makes use of his classical training and fine dining background. Orsa & Winston's one of the most exciting debuts of the year, but the food here is somewhat difficult to classify succinctly. It does draw from both Italy and Japan as advertised, and has a certain quiet thoughtfulness to it that I can't quite put my finger on. The flavors were very intentional, yet fine-drawn, with a sort of ingredient-centric quality about the plates, and I'm not sure if I've had anything quite like it before. Service, meanwhile, was as on point as you'd expect, and I'd be curious about trying some of the other menu options as well, though at the same time, I'm thinking that perhaps the place should cut down on the number of ways to dine, which currently stands at five (Super Omakase, nine-course, five-course, four-course family-style, à la carte). One last thing: I'd also like to see more variation in the dishware used, as seeing the same plate over 20 courses does get a tad monotonous.

Makoto Restaurant
4822 MacArthur Blvd NW, Washington, DC 20007
202.298.6866
www.makotorestaurantdc.com
Sun 09/29/2013, 06:00p-08:10p

Makoto Exterior

After having dinner at one of DC's most progressive restaurants the previous night, I now went to one of the area's most traditional, and certainly one of the longest standing. Makoto opened in 1992, and was sort of groundbreaking for the era, exposing the City to old-school, kaiseki-inspired Japanese cooking that was pretty much absent at the time. This shoebox of a space, perhaps best known for its slippers-only policy (your shoes are exchange at the foyer), has been family owned and operated since its inception. The first chef was Yoshiaki Itoh, who ran the place from inception until his retirement at the end of 2011 (unfortunately, he passed away just this past September). In 2012, Yoshi's son Susumu "Gene" Itoh took the reins, leaving his previous occupation as a health care recruiting consultant, and the restaurant doesn't appear to have skipped a beat.

As far as Makoto's menu goes, it's a seasonally-changing progression of eight to ten courses at a base price of $70, plus additional sashimi supplements starting at $10 and going all the way up to $50. You can also order à la carte, but I wouldn't recommend it, and there's also a lunch option, too. To drink, you'll find a small selection of sakes and wines, as well as a smattering of beers. Click for larger versions.

Sake seemed like the right choice of beverage this evening, so I opted for a carafe of the Bon Nama Genshu, Junmai Daiginjyo [$65]. I rather liked this one, finding it viscous in body, with a marked sweetness intermingled with alcoholic notes, all over an undercurrent of rice-y nuances.

1: Kabura Mushi & Matsutake
The meal commenced with a duet of dishes. The first was a kabura mushi, a mushimono of steamed turnip with a miso and walnut sauce. Think mild, and slightly firm on the turnip, with the sauce adding a nutty, earthy component to the mix, brightened up by the use of snow peas. The matsutakes, meanwhile, came with momiji oroshi (spicy radish) ponzu and was much more intense, with the mushrooms' woody nose and great crunch working well against the spicy, zesty notes present.

2: Mushi Tai
Steamed snapper was served with shiitake and tofu. The fish itself conveyed a subtle, yet focused brine that really worked for me, countered by the soft, delicate tofu while the veggies added a bit of levity to things. Nice weight from the mushroom, too, and I liked how that tangy sauce sort of tied everything together.

Sashimi

3: Sashimi
Here was the optional upgraded tsukuri course, which rang in at an additional $50 and comprised eight items total, all served with fresh-grated wasabi:

Amaebi - Creamy and sweet, though I would've preferred a snappier, crunchier variety of shrimp.
Toro - Melty, fatty, and nicely opened up by a dab of wasabi and house-made soy.
Ikura - Bursts of salty and smoky goodness, tempered by the use of cucumber.
Shima Aji - Delicate and slightly firm to the bite, and excellent with a touch of soy sauce.
Uni - Very lush and sugary initially, but with a lingering brine toward the back end.
Sake - Firm and crisp, with a creeping salinity and a marked fattiness.
Mebaru - A rarity in sashimi form, rockfish was pleasantly mild, and greatly enhanced with a bit of wasabi.
Tai - A quintessential presentation of bream, delicate and soft-spoken.

4: Soft Shell Crab
Next, for my agemono course I had a pretty unique presentation of soft shell crab, one coated in rice cracker, fried, and served with streaks of chile salt, sansho, and green tea salt. I loved the texture and crunch on it, which reminded me of the pretzel-crusted oysters I'd had not long ago at Salt Air. Taste-wise, the crab showed off a subtle brine that worked well with the rice cracker, and was really brought out via a squirt of lemon. The trio of salts were also on point, the chili presenting a tinge of heat, the green tea a touch of astringency, and the sansho a multifaceted spice with a slight numbing quality.

5: Tara Saikyoyaki
The yakimono course brought me grilled black cod, marinated in saikyo miso, Makoto's take on the ubiquitous dish popularized by Nobu Matsuhisa. It was a perfect presentation of the classic, with the fish coming out hot, flaky, and buttery, deftly set off by just a touch of sweetness and the bitterness of the charred bits. Very tasty.

6: Shabu-Shabu
Now, for some shabu shabu, with salmon, scallop, shrimp, radish, and udon. I started off with the scallop, which was great, but unfortunately I left the shrimp in for too long, so it came out a tad overcooked, but was still enjoyable nonetheless. Salmon, meanwhile, was soft, lush, and saline, a great foil to the bitter cuts of radish, while the noodles served as a comforting finish to the course.

Sushi

7: Sushi
Sushi formed the penultimate course in the set menu, and three varieties of nigiri were offered. In the front was aburi sake, basically a partially grilled salmon that was fantastic, with a great smoky character that perfectly balanced the fat in the bite. Next was yellowtail, a classic presentation that really called for a dab of soy sauce, while bringing up the rear was the flounder filet, which conveyed a good balance of tangy, yet slightly smoky flavors.

Ryokucha

A steaming cup of green tea marked the end of the meal proper.

With the set menu finished, I had the option of ordering additional sushi courses, which I gleefully took advantage of. Click for a larger version.

Sushi Supplement
Sushi was presented on one platter, rather than individually, which was unfortunate:

Shima Aji [$10] - I started with the striped jack, a great example of the fish with a spot on texture and a lovely sweet-ish character; even better with a touch of 'sabi.
Sawara [$6] - Spanish mackerel was lightly cooked, and thus displayed a satisfyingly meaty bite; excellent when taken with the accompanying yuzukosho.
Unagi [$5] - Utterly traditional, and just what you'd want, a sweet, fatty presentation of freshwater eel.
Tamago [$3] - Sweet and cool, with a deft seaweed counter.
Negitoro Temaki [$15] - Last up was the classic tuna-scallion handroll, a textbook representation of the dish with the fattiness of the tuna flawlessly moderated by the zesty bits of negi mixed within.

8: Sake Kasu Ice Cream
Dessert comprised a delightful sake lees ice cream with persimmon. It was really simple, but also really good, with the boozy, ricey ice cream pairing gorgeously with the sugary bits of fruit. Nice!

Makoto's one of the few bastions of old-school Japanese culinary tradition in the DC area, and in terms of the food, I didn't really have any serious complaints, finding the cooking clean and classic in essence, and very ingredient-focused and subtle, just as it should be. I do feel there's room for improvement in terms of the experience, though. The actual service was efficient and cordial, but I'd really like to have some more interactions with the itamae; I was sitting at the bar, and nary a word was said the entire two-hour meal. The cooks were partially hidden behind some red curtains, and perhaps that was meant to quell any attempt at conversation? I'd also like to see sushi courses served individually, which is pretty much the norm when sitting at the bar, and the menu could stand to be simplified as well. In the end though, Makoto's been open for over 20 years, so I don't exactly expect things to change.

Goldie's Restaurant
8422 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.677.2470
www.goldiesla.com
Thu 10/24/2013, 08:00p-10:45p

[NOTE: I do apologize for the substandard quality of the photos in this post. Apparently, someone at the restaurant had the bright idea that it'd make sense to illuminate our table with red lighting. Not only did this completely ruin the photos (I was completely flummoxed as to how to compensate for it--the best I could do was this sort of yellowish thing below), it really didn't do justice to the food either, which looked far less appetizing than it should have.]

One of the more notable debuts this year has been Goldie's, the latest project from the Eveleigh team of Nick Mathers, Nick Hatsatouris, and Lincoln Pilcher. Set in the former space of the longstanding Chado Tea Room, Goldie's opened in March and is named after a Sydney deli that Mathers frequented as a youngster. The Chef here is Thomas Lim, a fellow Aussie who's offering up his modern take on California cuisine, with a particular emphasis on the use of his wood- and coal-fired grill.

About the Chef: Chef Lim grew up in the Perth region of Western Australia, and got an early exposure to the restaurant biz from his uncle's Chinese place Choi's Inn in Northbridge. After finishing school, he landed a job at famed fish 'n' chips joint Cicerello's in Fremantle, but quickly left and enrolled at the Intercontinental Hotel School in Sydney at age 20. Upon graduating, Lim began working at Tetsuya's, one of the City's most acclaimed restaurants, but left in 2009 to start The Duxford, his "pirate dinner" series that, from what I gather, seems to have been something along the lines of a Wolvesmouth.

This led to a number of private cooking engagements, and eventually the co-head chef position at a new restaurant at the Flinders Hotel called Duke Bistro. Before starting at Duke, Lim traveled to Europe for culinary research purposes, eating his way across places like the Michelin-starred gastropub The Sportsman, the El Bulli-adjacent seafooder specialist Rafa's, Barcelona's preeminent bodega La Cova Fumada, the inimitable Bras, and everybody's favorite, Noma. Following, he and Mitchell Orr opened in late 2010 to considerable acclaim, and soon thereafter, Lim also found himself consulting on the menu at the nearby pub The Norfolk. He and Mathers had actually been friends for eight years, and Mathers was involved in Duke Bistro as well, so Lim was a natural choice when it came time find a chef for Goldie's.

Goldie's menu is laid out in familiar fashion, comprised of small (too small, according to some) plates, mostly meant for sharing. In addition, there are brunch and lunch options as well. Click for a larger version.

As far as the drinks are concerned, you'll definitely want to make room for the cocktails, the work here of Brittini Rae Peterson, whom you might remember from Ink, The Tar Pit, Fig & Olive, or Soho House. Beer's also a worthwhile option, and there also the small, but neat wine list, focused on organic and biodynamic bottles. Click for larger versions.

NV Bele Casel Asolo Prosecco Superiore

Michael Nemcik from Terroni happened to be in my dining party tonight, and if you know Michael, you'll know that you can always count on him to bring some good wines to the table. The first was the Bele Casel Asolo Prosecco Superiore, a fun, lightweight sparkler, not particularly complex, but tasty and easy-drinking. I found it dry yet creamy on the palate, but imbued with refreshing notes of pear, lemon, and apple. Note, though, that we didn't agree about the usage of the coupe-style glass here, which didn't do much for the bubbly's bouquet.

HOUSE CHARCUTERIE [$14.00] | Daily Selection
I'm a sucker for charcuterie when it's housemade, and tonight the restaurant had three varieties on offer. First was the country ham, a waxy, sticky, and unabashedly salty meat that went along swimmingly with the side of grilled bread. The coppa, meanwhile, was even better, with a certain slickness to it along with some wonderfully sharp, spicy notes. Last up was the testa, the fattiest, most substantial of the trio with its absolutely in-your-face porkiness that needed the balance imparted by the mustard and pickled red onion.

BEEF TARTARE [$15.00] | Boulder Valley Skirt, Crispy Garlic and Onions, Chili, Crostini
Now, the tartar was probably the most controversial course of the evening. I really liked it, with the soft, yet slightly chewy beef positively dripping with an almost seaweed-esque depth and umami-soaked richness, all evened out by an undercurrent of sweetness. For me, it was a refreshing take on a classic dish, but others in my party weren't so enthused with it, which was understandable given that the flavor profiles here weren't those that you'd expect from a traditional tartar.

BATTERY PARK [$14.00] | 100 Proof Rye, Punt e Mes, Maple, Peach Bitters, Peychaud Ice
The first cocktail of the night was the Battery Park, oft described as a take on the Manhattan and best known for its Peychaud's-tinted ice sphere. I liked it, finding it wonderfully boozy and classic, a deft blend of bitter, sweet, and acerbic nuances moderated by the ice.

FLUKE CRUDO [$14.00] | Beetroot, Orange
I was definitely not a fan of the plating and presentation here (very sloppy), but taste-wise, this was on point, the delicate slices of fluke beautifully augmented by the sweet, tangy, and unexpected combination of beet and orange.

PATE

PATE [$8.00] | Lemon Gelee, Soft Pretzel
The chicken liver, meanwhile, was a table favorite, and one of the best versions of the dish I've had. The pâté was pretty much perfect: smooth, lush, a flawless blend of earthy and sweet flavors masterfully counterbalanced by the piquant bits on top. Subtle, yet profound, with some great bread to boot.

Our second wine was the 2010 Stolpman Roussanne L'Avion, which I rather liked. Think floral and fruit-driven, yet crisp and refreshing, with a rousing acidity joined by a growing minerality and savory character, all underscored by the slightest boozy quality.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS [$12.00] | Crispy Fried, Panko, Jalapeno Hot Sauce
Brussels sprouts were pretty amazing, and, according to one of my dining companions, tasted of General Tso's chicken! I can definitely see where he was coming from, as the dish's slightly sweet, slightly spicy, immensely savor flavors, all over a delightful base of Brussels bitterness, really did recall flashes of the American Chinese cuisine staple.

GRILLED CUCUMBERS [$12.00] | Charred Green Garlic, Avocado, Celery, Sea Beans
This was another course that resulted in some conversation among us. The dish was complex, with lots of moving parts. The star of the show, the cucumber, had a lightness and crunch that was apropos, but was joined by an almost black bean-like depth and char astringency. To that, the sea beans added pricks of salt to the mix, while the avocado served to even out the dish with its lush, creamy character. I'm not sure if I liked this one or not; it definitely got me thinking though.

SIX DEGREES [$14.00] | Mezcal, Red Beet Basil Shrub, Sherry Vinegar, Ginger, Lemon
REDWOOD [$14.00] | Terroir Gin, Elderflower, Yuzu Bitters
Time for more cocktails. The Six Degrees was probably my favorite of the night, the smoky base of mezcal really working beautifully alongside the sugary beet, with the piquant zip of the sherry-ginger combo imparting a balancing, integrating thrust to the drink. The Redwood, meanwhile, tasted pretty much what I expected a redwood to taste like: herbal and pine-y, with a strong, boozy gin backbone and an intense aromatic component from the rosemary.

VEAL AND BACON MEATBALLS [$12.00] | Red Pepper Ketchup
Meatballs were delicious, showing off a mouthwatering savoriness to them offset by the tangy ketchup, not to mention a great char astringency and crunch. Interestingly, the balls came out slightly underdone, which resulted in a somewhat peculiar mouthfeel, but one that I really enjoyed.

ROAST YELLOW CORN [$12.00] | Corn Custard, Hibiscus, Lime
Next up, the corn made a strong showing for itself as well, its sweetness on display against the lime's subtle sourness. The most fascinating thing here, though, was the use of hibiscus, which lent an overarching floral quality to the dish that I found quite fetching.

TATER TOTS [$12.00] | Bone Marrow Gravy
You can't not order Tater Tots when you see them on a menu, so here we were. They really did hearken back to the elementary school cafeteria standby: crispy and salty and all that, with a deft counterpoint in the form of the kale while the gravy imparted an enveloping richness to the dish.

Moving to the reds now, we had here the 2008 Domaine Dupasquier Vin de Savoie Mondeuse. I'm not sure if I'd ever even had this varietal before, but I found it somewhat rustic in essence--tart, peppery, and tannic, with an earthy/meaty quality to it as well, offset by just a bit of fruit.

FRIED SQUID [$14.00] | Lemon Aioli, Aleppo
Fried squid was one of the stronger preparations I've had, with a fantastic bite to it that perfectly blended the cephalopod's soft, supple interior with a crisp, yet airy shell. The tangy aioli that came along formed a fitting pairing, but the peppery, spicy notes present were even better.

STEAMED PEI MUSSELS [$16.00] | Soft Leeks, Grilled Bread, Cider
Mussels were also very nice, the leeks and cider adding a certain verve to the bivalves that made them just that much different than the norm.

PORK RIBS [$16.00] | Orange and Honey Glaze
Ribs, meanwhile, were sticky and satisfying, with a sweet 'n' sour relish that paired effortlessly with the pork-y, char-tinged notes present. Nice texture on 'em too, which made the ribs good for gnawing.

GOLDEN GIRL [$14.00] | Spiced Tequila, Passion Fruit, Agave, Lime Meringue
The final cocktail we had was the Golden Girl, and it was pretty awesome. I found it almost creamy on the tongue, with a flavor profile that perfectly blended the creeping heat of the jalapeños with the sugary weight of the agave and passion fruit, the lime imparting a touch of levity to the fray.

GRILLED PORK BELLY [$14.00] | Little Neck Clams, Wild Greens, Pear
Moving now into some of the heavier courses, pork belly was tasty, albeit a touch dry at times, with the pear and greenery adding a great bit of lightness to the mix. I quite liked the additional saline and textural elements provided by the clams, too--a pleasant surprise.

MARY'S CHICKEN [$28.00] | Chanterelles, Roasted Leek, Jus Gras
I'm not sure who Mary is, but her chicken was very solid. The flavors were spot on, with the bird enhanced by the roasty, astringent qualities of the leek, while the mushrooms added an earthy, woody note to the dish. My only quibble: the chicken could've been a touch juicier in places.

DIVER SCALLOPS [$16.00] | Scallops Beurre Blanc, Seagrass
Finally, we had the scallops, which were on point in terms of texture, and conveyed their signature, oceany-savor well, matching with the buttery beurre blanc. However, you had to be careful with the seagrass, as it tended to steer the course toward overly saline at times.

Dessert, naturally, was a must. Click for a larger version.

MILK PANNACOTTA [$12.00] | Choc-Malt Fudge, Honey, Curry Crumble, Vanilla Ice Cream
Goldie's take on the ubiquitous panna cotta worked out well, really melding the lushness of the cream with some delightful bittersweet flavors and the subtly spicy nuances from the crumbles. Very tasty, and a smart reinterpretation of a traditional dessert.

CHOCOLATE, CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE [$12.00] | Mint Ice Cream, Chantilly Cream
Last up was a sort of ice cream sandwich, the herby, minty qualities of the ice cream working hand in hand with the deep, dark, chocolate-y richness of the cookie here. Yum.

Since opening, Goldie's has seemingly been a polarizing sort of place. I think the issue may stem from the fact that the restaurant bills itself as an approachable, neighborhood-y type of joint. However, the cooking here is much more ambitious than one would expect. Lim has a pretty unique culinary point of view, and imbues his food with unconventional touches and unexpected twists that definitely aren't for everybody. However, it is the type of cookery that I do appreciate, and I was quite intrigued by what I saw on the plates here. In fact, I'm actually really curious, excited even, to see where the Chef takes things.

Daikaya Izakaya
705 6th St NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.589.1600
www.daikaya.com
Tue 10/01/2013, 07:00p-08:50p

Daikaya Exterior

One of the most hotly anticipated debuts in Washington this year has been Daikaya ("house of big cooking pots"), a Sapporo-style ramen shop-slash-izakaya that bowed in February. The concept first came to light in early 2011, when Daisuke Utagawa (co-owner of Sushiko, DC's oldest sushi bar) and Yama Jewayni (Current Sushi, Eighteenth Street Lounge, Dragonfly) announced the project. In August that year, they brought on board none other than Chef Katsuya Fukushima, best known for his work at the groundbreaking Minibar. The place was supposed to open in February 2012, following a culinary research trip (during which time Fukushima spent three weeks learning from ramen master Sakae Ishida at the Nishiyama Seimen noodle factory), but, unsurprisingly, the trio hit snags along the way and the launch was pushed back to 2013.

About the Chef: Born in 1970, Katsuya "Kats" Fukushima lived in Okinawa until age five, when his family moved to Hawaii due to his father's job in the army. From there, he resided in California and then Germany before finally settling in Aberdeen, Maryland. During his school years, he DJ'd and even b-boyed as "Boogie" in the East Side Rockers crew, but also experienced his first real cooking job, at Wendy's of all places. Fukushima eventually went on to study at the University of Maryland, double majoring in math and art. However, neither field really enticed him, and he spent a lot of time cooking for friends and being inspired by Great Chefs.

Following graduation in 1994, he worked as a shooting instructor at Prince George's County Trap & Skeet Center, and a coworker's mother recruited him to help Ridgewells Catering with the U.S. Open. He instantly fell in love with the craft, and a week later, enrolled in the L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg. After finishing culinary school in 1996, Fukushima began working the line at Jeff Buben's seminal Vidalia. From there, he started cooking, concurrently, at the National Press Club, Cashion's Eat Place, and Jaleo under Ed Hanson (who would later open up Ella's Wood Fired Pizza). It was 1998, before José Andrés got involved with the tapas joint, and Fukushima would eventually leave the Press Club and Cashion's to focus solely on Jaleo, moving to the Bethesda branch when it opened in 2001.

Andrés took a liking to the young chef, and sent him to stage at El Bulli for a season, and also to work a stint at Verbena in New York. In 2002, Fukushima was made head chef of Café Atlantico as well as Minibar, and worked his way up the Think Food Group ladder, taking part in the debuts of Zaytinya, Oyamel, Jaleo Crystal City, and even The Bazaar. He eventually became Culinary Director for Andrés, and in late 2009, took the reins at José Andrés Catering with Ridgewells, thus coming full circle in a sense. Around this time, Fukushima teamed with TFG R&D Director Ruben Garcia to win Battle Mahi-Mahi against Jose Garces on Iron Chef America Season 8, but ended up leaving the restaurant group in 2010 after meeting Utagawa at mutual friend's party. After the departure, he signed on with Daikaya, helped R.J. Cooper launch Rogue 24, and, in March 2012, served as the last chef in the "Rogue Sessions" guest cheffing series following Cooper's heart surgery.

Daikaya Izakaya Interior

Brian Miller of Edit Lab penned the space, a rare new construction building (right next door to Graffiato) divided into two floors. The first houses the 40-person ramenya, while the second is home to the much larger 90-seat izakaya and its formidable bar (where I was seated).

As for Daikaya's menu, it's divided into logical sections and represents Fukushima's vision of putting his own twists on izakaya pub classics. Click for a larger version.

Daikaya's beverage selection is quite something, featuring a great selection of sakes, shochus, Japanese whiskies, beers, wines, and cocktails, of course, all managed by Bar Director Eddie Kim and Bartender Lukas Smith. Click for larger versions.

Empress of Stockholm [$11.00] | Right Gin, Dimmi Liquore, brown rice vinegar syrup, Swedish Herb Bitters, Thai basil
I've been on a cocktail bent as of late, so here we go, with a creation of Kim's from his days at Room 11 (he once lived in Stockholm, hence the name). It was a strong start to the evening, a multifaceted exploration of herbal, bitter, floral, and sweet flavors over an aromatic base of basil-tinged gin.

Wasabi Tako [$6.00] | raw marinated octopus with granny smith apple, celery, California arbequina olive oil, and wasabi sprouts
In one of Daikaya's better known dishes, raw octopus arrived snappy yet gelatinous, tarted up by the inclusion of crunchy bits of apple and celery, with the burn of the wasabi coming through toward the close.

Fermented Japanese Vegetables [$5.00] | Assortment of Three
Given my penchant for pickles, I just had to give this threesome of tsukemono a shot. Starting from the bottom, we have the Napa Cabbage, or hakusai, a kimchi-esque creation that was delightfully crunchy, with a lovely ferment-y goodness. The Takuan, meanwhile, was imported from Japan and showed off a fantastic crispness and depth that I quite enjoyed. The most interesting of the bunch, though, was the Housemade Sake Lees Daikonnukazuke, fermented in rice husk paste, which conveyed a rice-y undercurrent of flavor with a distinctly earthy, almost boozy tinge.

Baked Rappahannock Oyster [$3.25] | with teriyaki sauce, butter, and parmesan cheese
Next was the first of two presentations of Rappahannock oyster. The Rappahannock tends to be a milder, sweeter variety, and so here, the cheesy, salty, buttery nature of the dish tended to overwhelm its more subtle nuances. I really wanted the oyster to shine more.

Grilled Rappahannock Oyster [$2.75] | with sake and housemade oyster salt
The grilled versions were more interesting, and effective, with the sake really imbued into the oyster, and the salt seemingly enhancing the bivalves' natural salinity.

Chawanmushi [$7.75] | steamed egg and dashi custard with braised shiitake, parmesan, and enoki mushrooms
Chawanmushi seemed to be softer, gooier than usual, with the mushroom really adding depth and snap to the delicate custard. The best part, though, was the use of Parmesan, which contributed a great saltiness and textural component to the mix.

Calpisco Sour [$12.00] | Pisco Porton, Calpico, yuzu, egg white, bitters
Since I do have a fondness for both Calpis and pisco sours, I had to try this portmanteau of a cocktail. I loved the sweet spices on the nose, along with the tangy, froth body of the drink, laced with delightful yogurt-y undertones. Nice.

Crab Croquettes [$8.00] | with Old Bay, corn, tonkatsu sauce, and nori salt
Here, the Chef pays respects to his time spent in Maryland, the spheres redolent of Old Bay, and brimming with a combination of sweet corn and crab goodness, with the tonkatsu sauce offering up depth and piquancy to the mix.

Tuna Poke [$10.00] | raw marinated tuna with seaweed, pine nuts, and sesame oil
Raw tuna was nice, the nori adding a great umami savor to the dish and serving as an interesting textural element as well. The sesame oil, though, was the key, really tying the various moving parts here together, those crunchy pine nuts in particular.

Warm Napa Cabbage Salad [$6.50] | with apples, Kewpie-yogurt, and marinated salmon roe
A salad of hakusai was surprisingly satisfying, the warmness of the veggie forming a comforting base to the dish, and the mild taste of the cabbage working beautifully with the sweetness and crunch of the apples. I liked the salmon roe here too, which imparted a smoky tint to things, offset by the creamy-sweet Kewpie.

Sesame Street [$8.00] | Beniotome sesame shochu, Fever Three ginger beer, yuzu, Angostura bitters
My third cocktail was the whimsically-named Sesame Street. The moniker comes from the use of Beniotome sesame shochu, which lent a fantastically earthy, sesame-laced base to the drink, which was balanced out by the delectable ginger notes present and just a prick of yuzu.

Pork and Brussels Sprouts [$6.00] | "Okonomiyaki-style" with Kewpie mayo, okonomiyaki sauce, bonito flakes, and aonori
At this point, I delved into the kushiyaki portion of the menu, starting with my favorite, a combination of pork and Brussels. The sprouts did a great job in complementing the heft of the meat, while the various okonomiyaki toppings really recalled the essence of the traditional dish, but without overwhelming the inherent goodness of those skewers.

Beef Tongue [$4.00] | jalapeño-"yuzu kosho"
Beef tongue was a must-try for me as well, but, unfortunately, was rather tough, chewy even. Taste-wise though, the skewers were on point, with the zing of the yuzukosho offsetting the beef admirably.

Quail

Quail [$9.00]
Quail, meanwhile, was tender and succulent, but slightly too sweet, and lacking in savoriness and char.

Chicken Skin [$2.00]
Next was an off-menu skewer of kawa, which was fatty, sweet, and gelatinous, with a nice char astringency to it.

Chicken Thigh [$3.00]
Last up was the chicken thigh, a classic example of yakitori with a delightfully lingering smoky quality. Tasty.

Pastis Punch [$10.00]
My next cocktail was an off-menu special that combined pastis with honey, lemon, apple cider vinegar, and Absolut Elyx vodka, and which, apparently, takes days to make (since the flavors have to properly meld). It really was something special though, with a great anise-tinged base of flavor that performed flawlessly against the tangy-sweet notes in the drink. Refreshing.

Pork and Beef Stuffed Cabbage [$8.75] | with yuzu-kosho and shiso
I now commenced with some of the heartier courses on the menu. I quite liked Daikaya's take on the roru kyabetsu, which really balanced the meatiness of the stuffing against the mild, light flavors of the cabbage, all while the yuzukosho and shiso imparted well-placed hits of brightness to the fray.

Cod Roe Spaghetti [$9.25] | with nori, chervil, and cream sauce
Here was a version of the ever-popular Japanese-style pasta, the brine of the tarako deftly commingled with the umami-rich savor of seaweed, while the rich, creamy sauce brought all the elements together.

Onigiri, Abura-miso [$3.00] | rice ball, pork and sweet miso filling
My last savory came in the form of an onigiri. I really liked this more than I thought I would, with the sweet-ish pork really playing well with the rice, all while the nori made for a fitting finishing touch. Lovely texture on the rice here, too, and the pickles were an appreciated addition as well.

With dessert, I was presented a digestif of sorts, containing Liquore Strega, Dolin vermouth, and rhum agricole. It was pretty awesome actually, with the herby, complex notes from the Strega really meshing beautifully with the more saccharine flavors present.

Daikaya's dessert menu: short but sweet. Click for a larger version.

Black Sesame Panacotta [$5.00] | with crispy wild rice, shortbread, and sweet sesame sauce
Being a fan of kuro goma, I opted for the panna cotta, which ended up as one of the better ones I've had. It really showed off the sweet, nutty nature of the black sesame, tempered by the crunch and savoriness of the rice and shortbread. A winning combination to be sure.

I think Daikaya really does do a nice job capturing the soul, the energy of the Japanese izakaya. The cooking is based on tradition, but with some unexpected, modern touches and a dash of whimsy thrown in for good measure. I liked most of what I had, but I would like to see the kitchen tighten up some of their executions though, as a few dishes fell a bit short. The cocktail program (and really, the entire beverage program) is certainly deserving of praise as well, and bartender Lukas Smith (who took care of me most of the night) really did a great job on the service front as well. Overall, a positive experience for a solo diner such as myself.

David Kinch at Rustic Canyon
1119 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.393.7050
www.rusticcanyonwinebar.com
Mon 11/11/2013, 06:00p-08:45p

It's been a while since I attended a collaborative guest chef dinner, but this one caught my eye, reuniting Rustic Canyon's Jeremy Fox with his mentor David Kinch of the vaunted Manresa up in Los Gatos. If you recall, Fox began at Manresa back in '03, starting from the bottom before working his way up to the role of Chef de Cuisine before leaving in 2007 to start Ubuntu. This one-night-only affair also served to promote Chef Kinch's new cookbook, Manresa: An Edible Reflection, co-written with Bon Appétit's Christine Muhlke and with photography by Eric Wolfinger.

The night's menu featured six courses from Kinch, each paired with a corresponding dish by Fox. Dinner was priced at $95 a head, with optional beverage pairings tacking on an additional $45. Click for a larger version.

Lovely Pear Cocktail | house infused pear ginger vodka, housemade amaretto, lemon, honey, cardamom and cinnamon bitters
Maple Berry Smash [$13.00] | Johnny Drum Green Label Bourbon, fresh lemon, fresh mint, maple syrup, early summer berries
The first of our pairings eschewed wine in favor of the aptly-named Lovely Pear Cocktail, which was pretty fantastic, showing off a bouquet of sweet-spice and a tangy, gingery, yet boozy taste that recalled the autumnal season. The Maple Berry Smash, meanwhile, was appealing in its own way, a balance of fruity, tart, and bitter flavors underscored by an intriguing interplay between the Bourbon and maple.

Amuse Bouche (Manresa): crispy cassava and oyster
Lovely Pear Cocktail
Kinch's cassava was a fun way to start the meal, the roots coming out sweet and starchy, but with a savory element to them that was really amplified by what seemed like the distilled quintessence of oyster. I just wanted to keep eating.

Amuse Bouche (Rustic Canyon): lavender almonds
Lovely Pear Cocktail
Going along with the cassava were Fox's signature nuts, an almost universally pleasing, crunchy amalgam of salty and floral nuances that read simultaneously simple yet profound. The Chef should be selling these by the bagful.

1 (Manresa): sea bream, lightly cured with persimmon, savory granola
2006 Domaine Weinbauch, Clos des Capucins Cuvée Théo, Gewurztraminer, Alsace
Our first course proper was a winner. I found the bream clean and crisp, with a delicate taste that was superbly enhanced by the umami-rich, Asian-y relish of the accompanying nori, all while the persimmon imparted just the right amount of sweetness into the fold. The best part? Those bits of granola, which gave the course a fantastic crunchiness and a delightfully savory, lingering finish. The wine here was a smart pairing as well, the intensely aromatic, floral qualities of the crisp, stonefruit-laced Gewürz pairing swimmingly.

1 (Rustic Canyon): radish crudite, nori crème fraiche, pear mustard, yuzu
2006 Domaine Weinbauch, Clos des Capucins Cuvée Théo, Gewurztraminer, Alsace
Fox followed up with a stunner of his own. The Chef has a well-known penchant for radishes, and here they were put to excellent use, their crisp, bitter qualities melding flawlessly with the lush, creamy nori crème fraîche, all while the pear provided a modicum of sugar to bring it all home. The linkages between the two courses, anchored by the use of seaweed and a countering sweetness, really made the combo work for me.

2 (Manresa): mussel, gooseberry and tomatillo escabeche
2011 Birichino, Malvasia Bianca, Monterey
Mussels were spot-on in terms of texture and taste, their salty smack on display, balanced seamlessly by the hearty base of potato and the escabeche qualities in the course. However, the use of gooseberry seemed to work against the dish, giving us a rather jarring tartness that distracted from all the other great things going on here.

2 (Rustic Canyon): pozole verde of scallops and their tripe
2011 Birichino, Malvasia Bianca, Monterey
We had here a variation on Fox's epic pozole that I had on my last visit. This version was just as good, with the supple slivers of scallop supplying a softly saline base to the dish, enhanced by the use of the more substantial "tripe." That, coupled with the bright, verdant flavors of green garlic, was a masterful blend of elements that really worked for me, especially when taken in concert with the crunchy bits on top and the hearty chunks of hominy.

Apple Jack Rose / Peruvian Sour

Apple Jack Rose [$12.00] | Apple house-infused Whiskey, Laird's 7 1/2 Year Old Apple Brandy, fresh lemon, pomegranate grenadine
Peruvian Sour [$12.00] | Pisco Gran Sierpe, Concord grapes, agave nectar, Peychaud's bitters
Time for more cocktails. The Apple Jack Rose really lived up to its name, provided all the juicy, apple-y flavors that you'd want, augmented by the fruitiness of the grenadine, yet not overwhelming the goodness of the whiskey. The Peruvian Sour, on the other hand, was a lighter sort of drink, a commixture of tart, sweet, and boozy that was easy to like.

3 (Manresa): mijoté of sunchoke & chestnuts, brussel sprouts with brillat savarin milk
2005 Andre Robert, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Champagne
A stew of chestnut and sunchoke really tasted of the season, putting forth a sweet, nutty, comforting sensation, tied together by the cheese, that was utterly comforting. However, it was also on the hefty side, and I wanted more bitterness from the Brussels to balance things out.

3 (Rustic Canyon): monterey bay abalone with turnip
2005 Andre Robert, Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Champagne
Abalone came out tender, but still with a nice chew to it, and was super buttery, saline, and delicious, with a delightful char astringency. It was certainly tasty alone, but the texture and astringency of the accompanying turnips really took the dish to another level.

4 (Manresa): our boudin noir and toasted buckwheat
2001 Viña Olabarri, Gran Reserva, Rioja
One of the highlights of the meal was definitely the boudin noir, which I can safely say was the best preparation of the dish I've had. I loved how the intense, earthy taste of the sausage was so gracefully presented--forceful, yet in a restrained, delicate manner. Add to that the sweetness of the traditional accoutrement of apple sauce, and the lightness and crunch of the buckwheat "popcorn," and you get a thoroughly modern, unique interpretation of the classic. It's almost like something I'd expect to see at Trois Mec.

4 (Rustic Canyon): potatoes a la flamande, salt cod alfredo, green garlic
2001 Viña Olabarri, Gran Reserva, Rioja
Finishing things off on the savory side was a rustic-tasting dish from Fox. With the combination of morue and potato being used here, the dish was quite salty, and quite crispy too--satisfying in a base sort of way. The crux, though, was that green garlic, which offered up a great bit of brightness and verve to the dish that really mellowed things out.

5 (Manresa): hibiscus pears and gingerbread, smoked pecans
NV Dumangin, Ratafia de Champagne, France
Moving on to desserts now, Stephanie Prida's gingerbread sort of paid homage to the season, arriving soft, moist, and teeming with sweet, spicy flavors that were just amplified by the perfume-y nature of those pears.

5 (Rustic Canyon): andante dairy's minuet, beets & berries, pistachio soil
NV Dumangin, Ratafia de Champagne, France
Rustic's Laurel Almerinda followed up with her version of a cheese course. Andante's triple-creme Minuet was proudly featured, its luxurious, lactic, and slightly funky nature keenly paired with the sugary smack of the beets 'n' berries. The flavors made sense, but the pieces of cheese were just too big, throwing the balance out of line to some extent.

I'm always a tad wary going into these collaborative type dinners, but this one turned out well, though I wish that the courses would've been individually plated rather than served family style. That would've been a more elegant solution, and would have allowed for heightened precision, tighter integration. That being said, we did get a good taste of what these two chefs are capable of, and at the same time, we got to experience mentor and mentee, side by side, their complementary, yet unique styles all coming together cohesively in one meal. A fun, festive evening--a lovely time was had by all.

Q Sushi Downtown
521 W 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.225.6285
www.qsushila.com
Fri 11/22/2013, 08:00p-10:50p

Q Sushi Exterior

With apologies to Zo, the somewhat perplexingly-named Q (not to be confused with the mediocre Sushi Q on Sunset) just might be the most important sushi opening in LA this year. The Edomae-style restaurant is the work of a trio of lawyers from Quinn Emanuel Urquhart & Sullivan: Ryan Goldstein, Shon Morgan, and even firm Co-Founder/Managing Partner John B. Quinn. The saga of Q (yes, that's "Q" for Quinn) began five years ago when Quinn visited Japan and Tokyo office head Goldstein brought him to Nogizaka Sushi Yuki, a tiny six-seat, locals-only, off-the-radar sushi joint in Roppongi headed by one Hiroyuki Naruke. The two attorneys instantly became fans of the place, and Goldstein continued to visit the restaurant afterward, getting to know the Chef in the process.

However, following the devastating 2011 tsunami, Naruke's business suffered due to concerns about radiation poisoning from Fukushima. Goldstein found out about this, as well as the Chef's dream to open a place in the US, and proposed the idea to Quinn and Morgan, the firm's Class Action lead. The threesome decided to go in on the project together; it was 2011, and they predicted a budget of $600,000 along with launch date the following year. However, permitting hell and construction delays meant that Q's official debut was pushed all the way back to November 22nd this year (following a couple weeks of soft opening), with total costs approaching $2 million (a tidy sum given how small the place is).

Q Sushi Interior

Q occupies the site formerly held by the pedestrian Eco Asian, situated a mere half-mile from Quinn Emanuel's headquarters on Figueroa and across the street from Mo-Chica and Bottega Louie. The space was thoroughly revamped by Ryan Brown of Brown Design Group and accommodates 10 at the abacus-backed bar plus an additional 16 in a small dining area up front. The vibe here sort of blends the serene aesthetics of Japanese design with a distinctly American modern flair. Think lots and lots of wood, most notably the 3,000 or so panels on the undulating, wave-like ceiling, from which hang over 100 globular pendant lights. Note, also, the custom-commissioned art pieces and Japanese artifacts--many dating back hundreds of years--adorning the room.

As of now, there's no menu per se, as Q is an omakase-only affair, comprising roughly 20 courses at $165 (a comparable dinner at Naruke's place in Tokyo was ¥15,000 if you're curious). The meal begins with six or seven courses of tsumami (basically small appetizers) before delving into a dozen or so items of sushi, though it is possible to order à la carte nigiri and even cut rolls at the conclusion of the set menu. Lunch service, meanwhile, is slated to start early next year. To drink at Q, you'll find a small selection of Japanese craft beers (though plans are to have Asahi and Sapporo on draft too), a short-but-sweet sake list, as well as a smattering of lighter, surprisingly well-priced wines, all managed by the Chef's wife, Kyoko Naruke, who also oversees the dining room. Corkage, meanwhile, is a reasonable $25 a bottle. Click for larger versions.

We began with some bubbly from the list, the somewhat uncommon Champagne, Grand Cru, Chardonnay, Brut, G.H. Mumm, "Mumm de Cramant", France, NV [$128]. I really liked this one, finding it perfectly balanced, an unquestionably elegant presentation of Champagne that was creamy and soft, with a delectable citric flair joined by a lovely base of minerality, and a lively touch of acidity to temper things out.

1: Shigoku Kaki
Shigokus (which I first encountered over at the excellent Ohshima in OC) are quickly becoming my favorite type of oyster, and here they were presented with grated daikon and yuzu salt. It was a pretty much flawless bite, the tang of the yuzu strong initially, but then leading to the crisp, yet lingering brine of the oyster--a great way to show off a Shigoku.

Saba 'Maki'

2: Saba "Maki"
Ginger-soy-topped mackerel arrived rolled in layers of cucumber, then daikon, reminding me somewhat of the Newport Roll at Restaurant Abe, my old go-to sushi haunt in Orange County from back in the day. It was much more interesting than that, though, with a strong ginger-y note on the attack transitioning to the crunch and lightness of the veggies over an omnipresent base of saba, all finished with a slight tinge of bitterness. I found the course a refreshing, vivacious take on the strongly-flavored fish--my first time having something like this.

3: Otoro no Tataki
Bluefin toro from Spain was seared, then accompanied by a topping of miso and sansho. It was a luxurious, and of course delicious plate, the smoky, fatty, oily cuts of tuna beautifully offset by the earthy, pungent weight of that condiment. Yum.

Ankimo

4: Ankimo
Next up was a faultless preparation of ankimo, one that really conveyed the refined, graceful, yet earthy and powerful essence of the monkfish liver, gorgeously set off by the zing of scallion at the end.

5: Uni Misozuke
The Saikyo shiro miso-marinated San Diego uni was unlike anything I'd had before. There was just an incredible depth and transformation here, with the funky, earthy sweetness of the miso really permeating the urchin, while the texture was almost firm, dense in nature. The result was something that one of my dining companions compared to an "uni candy," a sugary-savory treat certainly worth seeking out.

6: Aka Misoshiru
A miso soup incorporating red inaka miso was superb, easily the most complex version that I'd ever tasted. There was just this almost rustic, comforting profoundness to the broth that I really enjoyed, all brightened up with a bit of seaweed and what I believe were little cuts of tangy myoga.

7: Hirame Kobujime
With the otsumami dispensed with, the wonderfully sharp, house-pickled, young Hawaiian ginger gari came out and it was time to move on to sushi. We commenced with a fluke prepared kobujime style, meaning cured with kelp. The process results in a much more interesting representation of the fish, fortifying the texture a bit and really sharpening the flavors, giving the flounder a more savory, yet somewhat tarter character, with a great hit of Hiro-san's sea salt and red vinegar-laced rice on the finish.

8: Kasugo Tai
From Kyushu came this baby snapper, which was probably the most intriguing, interesting preparation of the fish I've had. I loved its surprisingly rich, somewhat tangy, umami-laden subtleties, and how the skin gave the nigiri just the slightest bit of resistance.

Asahi Shuzo's Kubota Manjyu is sort of the quintessential high-end sake, and one of my dining companions was gracious enough to bring a bottle for us to share. It was as tasty as ever, a viscous, yet smooth sake with loads of character and a sweet, floral quality to it that satisfied as always.

9: Akami Zuke
The blue fin from above made another appearance, this time the dorsal section of the fish, marinated. It was undoubtedly one of the strongest versions of lean tuna that I've eaten, showing off a particularly fascinating depth and savor to it, along with an eminently pleasing consistency. Excellent.

Aoyagi

10: Aoyagi
Orange clam from Boston was on point, delightfully springy and supple in body, with a marked sweetness on the front end that transitioned seamlessly to an intense, growing salinity.

Kurodai

11: Kurodai
The black snapper had a fantastic texture to it--sort of a blend of soft and snappy--and displayed a subtle, delicate savor, beautifully accented by just a whisper of wasabi heat.

Toro

12: Toro
Toro was described by Hiro-san as between chutoro and otoro in fattiness, and the result of that was a superbly balanced bite, with the combination of custom-blended micro-brewed soy and 'sabi really melding well with the fish.

Chutoro

13: Chutoro
In comparison, the actual chutoro was a notch down in terms of lushness, but was just as enjoyable, with a particularly smooth, sleek quality to it that I adored.

Kohada

14: Kohada
Marinated gizzard shad is perhaps the epitome of Edomae sushi, and this was a spot on interpretation of it. It was one of the best I've had, and just as it should be: firm and slightly springy to the bite, and with a fishy, piquant taste that I reveled in.

15: Shiro Ebi
White shrimp from Toyama Bay was a rare treat, something that I'd first encountered at Urasawa. Think mild, sweet, and slightly gelatinous in consistency--superb when taken with the nori.

Jyokigen Junmai Ginjo

Our next sake was the Jyokigen Fujin Junmai Ginjo [$102], which I also really enjoyed. It was definitely more "rustic" I'd say compared to the Kubota, with a thinner, crisper body and juicier, fruitier notes commingled with blasts of rice and alcohol.

Hotate

16: Hotate
Scallop from Hokkaido was another winner, coming out cool, ocean-y, and wonderfully sweet, expertly paired with a brush of soy.

Uni

17: Uni
Hiro-san prefers San Diego uni to the more popular Santa Barbara varietal commonly served around these parts, I'm thinking because it has a more mineral-driven, austere nature that more closely resembles the Hokkaido specimens. That being said, the urchin served tonight was still creamy, sweet, and tasting of the sea, a deliciously well-balanced bite that went superbly with its seaweed wrapper. A strong case for challenging the hegemony of SB uni.

Anago

18: Anago
Sea eel arrived hot, soft, and sweet, backed by a well-placed savory quality.

Tamago

19: Tamago
The tamago here, I'm told, is made with a large percentage of shrimp, the result of which is a nicely firm, substantial texture and a delightful salinity to go against the classically sweet flavors at play.

20: Sake Kobujime
And with that, we were done with the set menu. Hiro-san asked if we wanted more, and I requested that we try anything that hadn't been served yet. Thus came the Scottish salmon kobujime, not traditionally an Edomae sushi ingredient but nonetheless quite possibly the most captivating version of the neta I've had. The kelp gave it a savory, yet zesty quality that really evened out the fishy, fatty qualities of the salmon. I don't think I've had anything quite like it before.

21: Aoyagi Kaibashira [$6.00]
The adductor muscle of the orange clam above came out in a sauce of ponzu and uni, the clean, lean essence of the kaibashira working wonders alongside the rich, creamy condiment.

Saba

22: Saba
Japanese mackerel was exemplary, just how a good saba should be, with a great yuzu tartness to go along with the creeping brine of the fish.

Moving back to France now, our final tipple of the night was the Chablis, Jean-Paul Droin, Burgundy, France, 2011 [$45]. It was sort of a classic Chablis, and a fitting pairing to the food. Think savory, a bit steely on the nose, with round, almost juicy notes of stone fruit making for a refreshing, delicious, easy-drinking wine.

23: Engawa Kobujime [$7.00]
Flounder fin done kobujime was divine, the sour smack of yuzu leading to a wonderfully chewy, meaty eating experience. A textural masterpiece.

24: Kohada no Hosomaki [$4.00]
A cut roll of gizzard shad just might've been the most enthralling hosomaki I've ever eaten. There was much more going on here than in your typical roll, with the fishiness of the kohada melding gorgeously with the bright, light veggies, all while the rice and nori grounded the course. Very neat.

25: Tofu Misozuke [$15.00]
Serving as a "dessert" of sorts was a block of tofu cured and aged (for months at a time) in sweet white Kyoto miso. This stuff was pretty fantastic, and unlike anything that I've ever had. It was almost cheese-like in nature: dense in body, rich, creamy, and with a pretty remarkably depth of flavor and even a touch of heady funk. Definitely worth asking for.

Ryokucha

To close, some piping hot green tea, natch.

Masato, Hiro Naruke, Ruiz Mateo

Behind the counter are Masato-san, Hiro-san, and Ruiz-san (a Peruvian-Japanese East LA native who previously cooked at Nobu and Katsuya).

The partners who own Q fully acknowledge the fact that they may never turn a profit on this place, and they're perfectly fine with that. It is thus a true passion project of sorts, driven by the sole desire to create something unique in the LA sushi scene, to execute a vision of old-school, uncompromising sushi that's rarely encountered outside of Japan. Based on this early visit, I can only surmise that they're succeeding in that goal. Thanks to what I'm assuming are various curing, aging, and other techniques utilized by Hiro-san, the neta here just seemed much more nuanced, more much multifaceted than usual, but still unquestionably delicious. Add to that his no-sugar, room temperature shari, the smart wine list, spot-on service, and you get truly one of the most exciting, one-of-a-kind sushi experiences that I've ever had. Even though the place just opened, I have no doubt that Q belongs in the top echelon of sushi spots in Los Angeles, and for all you sushi enthusiasts out there, it is an absolute must visit--seriously, go make your reservations now!

Since Q lacks a true dessert course, we wandered over to Bottega Louie across the street for some post-sushi sweets and cocktails. Amazingly, this was actually my first time there, as I'd sort of stayed away due to the mixed reviews I'd heard about the place. Overall though, I was pretty satisfied with what we had.

Cha Cha Cha [$13.00] | Cha Cha Cha Mezcal, Green Chartreuse, Angostura bitters, cucumbers, fresh lime juice & agave
Don Tranquilo [$13.00] | Old Overholdt Rye, Cha Cha Cha Mezcal, fresh lime juice & agave

Le Grand Macaron [$10.00] | French almond cookie with vanilla cream, raspberry jam & raspberries
Affogato [$10.00] | Vanilla gelato, espresso & whipped cream with an espresso macaron

Aviation [$13.00] | Plymouth Gin, fresh lemon juice, Crème de Violette & Maraschino Liqueur
Beso Ardiente [$13.00] | Azuñia Tequila, fresh lemon juice, agave, strawberries, cilantro & a touch of spice

Hakkasan Restaurant
233 N Beverly Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.888.8661
www.hakkasan.com/beverlyhills/
Fri 11/08/2013, 09:10p-12:40a

The latest in the line of haute Chinese concepts (Mr. Chow, Philippe Chow, WP24, Chi Lin) to hit Los Angeles is Hakkasan, arguably the most pedigreed of its brethren. The restaurant is the newest outpost of an international chain, one started by restaurateur Alan Yau back in 2001. Yau first made a name for himself at Wagamama, which he founded in 1992 and subsequently sold six years later. He then debuted Busaba Eathai in 1999, which was followed up by the original Hakkasan in the West End of London in 2001 (it earned a Michelin star two years later, the first Chinese place in Europe to do so). From there, Yau started dim sum eatery Yauatcha in 2004, which was also awarded a macaron, and then opened high-end Japanese eatery Sake No Hana in 2007, Chinese noodle bar Cha Cha Moon and Princi bakery in 2008, the modern-rustic St. Betty (Hong Kong) in 2011, and Thai street fooder Naamyaa Café in 2012.

In January 2008, Yau sold a majority stake in Hakkasan and several other properties to Tasameem, the real estate arm of the Abu Dhabi Investment Authority sovereign wealth fund. Given the substantial financial resources of the ADIA, Hakkasan expanded in a big way, landing in Miami (May 2009), Abu Dhabi (June 2010), London Mayfair (November 2010), Mumbai (June 2011), Dubai (November 2011), New York (April 2012), San Francisco (November 2012), Doha (January 2013), Las Vegas (April 2013), and finally right here in Beverly Hills in September, with Shanghai coming later this year. Hakkasan's menu across all locations is overseen by International Executive Chef Ho Chee Boon, a 26-year fine dining veteran who's been with the group from the beginning and now resides in the US, mainly dividing his time between Las Vegas and San Francisco.

Hakkasan's dinner menu features a mix of the restaurant's Cantonese-inspired mainstays, as well as newer, lighter fare created especially for Beverly Hills' notoriously image-conscious clientele. There's also a prix fixe Pre-Theater option, which I didn't expect. Dim sum is also a viable, and intriguing option here, but for lunch only. Click for larger versions.

The beverage program at Hakkasan is nothing to sneeze at either, with a surprisingly strong wine list (and two sommeliers on the floor--Albert and Christoph), a dozen sakes, a handful of beers, and legit quasi-Asian-y cocktails from Bar Manager Armando Conway (La Descarga, Neat Bar, The Abbey, Harvard & Stone). Click for larger versions.

Smoky Negroni [$16.00] | Rusty Blade gin, Antica Formula vermouth, Campari and Grand Marnier smoke infusion
The Hakka [$15.00] | Belvedere vodka, Tozai junmai sake, coconut, passion fruit and lychee juice
I had to start with Hakkasan's signature Smoky Negroni, which I'd actually been hearing about. What's special about it is that, after being mixed liked a typical negroni, the concoction is poured into a decanter, which is then filled with Grand Marnier-infused hickory smoke from a PolyScience Smoking Gun. The result is that you get all the great bittersweet, boozy, slightly citric qualities of the classic drink, but with an additional depth and complexity from the whispers of smoke imbued in the drink--very nice. We also got The Hakka, a very different sort of cocktail that was all about sweet, fruity, tropical flavors in a lush, almost creamy package with just a bit of a rice-y undercurrent from the sake.

Crispy duck salad [$28.00] | with pomegranate, pine nut and shallot
Hakkasan's duck salad is one of the restaurant's most popular dishes, and for good reason. They weren't stingy on the amount of bird included here, and as a result, the dish was a tour de force of brazenly duck-y savor and wonderfully crisp skin, all balanced out by the sweet, tart pomegranate and astringent greens, with the pine nuts adding a great crunch. Just a lovely mélange of contrasting tastes and textures.

Jasmine tea smoked pork short ribs [$22.00]
Short ribs were sweet and sticky, nearly falling off the bone but still with a bit of bite, tinged with just a trace of floral tea character.

Hakka steamed dim sum platter [$28.00] | scallop shumai, har gau, Chinese chive dumpling and black crab dumpling
The dim sum sampler was a must try as well, and came with four varieties of steamed goodies, accompanied by chili oil, chili sauce, and soy sauce.

Scallop Shumai - The scallop was clearly the star here, coming out firm, yet supple, with its salinity nicely conveyed. Excellent with a dab of the chili sauce.
Har Gau - A traditional har gow in essence, with the briny, snappy shrimp at the forefront, accompanied by a pretty legitimately delicate skin.
Chinese Chive Dumpling - Probably my favorite of the quartet and the most nuanced, with the chive really melding beautifully with stuffing (prawns I believe).
Black Crab Dumpling - This one showed off the ocean-y, lingering relish of the seafood in the most apparent manner, and was perfectly offset by a dab of chili.

Overall, this was a very strong course, with all four items satisfying in their own way. If this is any indication of Hakkasan's standard dim sum menu, I may have to revisit for lunch, post-haste.

Hot and sour chicken soup [$10.00]
The hot and sour soup was as hot and as sour as you'd expect, with plenty of sharp, peppery flavors that I really enjoyed. However, I would've liked more of the actual chicken to have shown through.

Stir-fried black pepper beef [$38.00] | with merlot
Another one of Hakkasan's staples is its black pepper beef, and indeed, it was likely the best interpretation of the dish I've eaten. The meat itself was certainly the tenderest I've encountered (I'm assuming fillet was utilized), and displayed a delightful beefy savoriness imbued with just the right amount of peppery kick and wine-y undertones. The veggies were also key, with the scallion and onions imparting a crucial crunch and lightness to the course.

Szechuan style french beans [$18.00]
Greens beans were also another winner, with the bright flavors of the haricots verts joined by a wonderfully savory, garlicky depth, enhanced by the umami-rich relish of xia mi. Lovely textures and nuttiness from the peanuts here as well.

Corpse Reviver No. 8 [$16.00] | Bombay Sapphire gin, Lillet Rosé, Royal Combier, jasmine, lemon juice, prosecco and atomized absinthe
Ping Punch [$15.00] | Pisco Portón, Cocchi Americano, Granny Smith apple, Oolong tea and egg white
Hakkasan's Corpse Reviver No. 8 was a reworking on the classic #2 version, and came in what must've been the tallest coupe glass I've ever seen. This was a particularly multifaceted cocktail, with contrasting thrusts of tangy, sweet, floral, citrusy, herbaceous, and boozy--sort of a lot going on, but with everything coming together into a cohesive whole. The Ping Punch, on the other hand, was much more approachable, with a deliciously sweet, flowery quality to it highlighted by overtones of juicy apple.

Sesame Prawn Toast [$16.00]
I also quite enjoyed the shrimp toast as well, the ocean-y savors of the springy, spongy seafood played against their coating of earthy sesame, all while the included chili sauce provided a perfect touch of heat to things.

Roasted silver cod [$39.00] | with Champagne
Silver cod (a.k.a. black cod) is another Hakkasan signature that we had to try. The fish itself was pretty much perfect, arriving flaky, soft, and super buttery, with the lotus root serving as a great savory, crunchy accompaniment. However, the surprisingly viscous Champagne-based sauce went overly sweet, masking the delicate flavors of the fish somewhat. I did appreciate the Chinese broccoli here though, which lent a delightful, countering bitterness to the dish.

Hakka noodle with mushrooms and Chinese chive [$15.00]
The signature Hakka noodles seemed simple, but they were a standout for me, very probably the strongest chow mein-type dish I've had. The noodles themselves were spot on, and gave up an eminently satisfying, savory quality that was amped up by the inclusion of mushrooms, while the bean sprouts added a great crunch and levity to things. I could see myself taking down a heaping plate of this stuff.

Mabo tofu [$22.00] | with beef and Szechuan pickled vegetable
Hakkasan's take on the ubiquitous mapo doufu was an apt one, with perhaps a sweeter note than usual, the ground meat really highlighted against a backdrop of creeping heat and mala numbness.

Broken Promise [$15.00] | Breaking and Entering bourbon, grapes, cherry liqueur, rosemary, lemon juice and egg white
The final cocktail of the night was also my favorite. I loved the sweet-spicy flavors here, and how that interacted with the wonderfully aromatic qualities of rosemary, with the Bourbon coming through toward the midpalate, joined by the tang of lemon. Beautifully balanced and integrated.

We all know that Chinese desserts tend toward the lackluster, so fortunately Hakkasan's decided to take a more Western approach with regard to the sweet stuff. Click for larger versions.

Coconut pudding [$12.00] | coconut pearl pudding, caramelized spiced pineapple, lime financier
This seemingly terrarium-inspired dish looked like it might've come out of the Red Medicine playbook, and indeed, I could taste some Kahn in there as well. The creamy, tapioca-studded pudding formed a softly sweet base to the dessert and went superbly with the tangy cubes of pineapple and tart vesicles of grapefruit here, with the financier really grounding the course. What really set this part, though, were the spicy and herbaceous notes present, which really lent a modern twist to the dessert that I loved.

Black sesame [$12.00] | sesame crémeux, yuzu ice cream & sesame florentine
There has to be a chocolate dessert on the menu of course, and Hakkasan's made a strong showing as well. The crémeux alone was as lush and as sugary as you'd want, gorgeously set off by a blast of tartness from the yuzu ice cream while the sesame tuiles imparted a fantastic crunch and savoriness to the fray. Very nice.

I wasn't sure quite what to think going into Hakkasan, but I have to say that I enjoyed the meal quite a bit. The food was pretty much all delicious, doing a good job in capturing the essence of Chinese cooking and imbuing it with a bit more flair, focus, precision, and modernity than is typically found. Armando Conway's cocktails, meanwhile, were commendable as well, and I was largely pleased with the service too. I'm actually very curious about returning for dim sum.

I think the issues here will largely stem from two places: cost and atmosphere. The price of dinner came to about $170 a head all-in, making it the most expensive Chinese meal I've had I'm sure. Now, given the level of ingredients and execution here, I can accept that Hakksan's going to be considerably pricier than most Chinese restaurants. In fact, I hate it when people say that Chinese food should be cheap, but a lot of diners probably can't get past those preconceptions. More concerning to me personally is the whole vibe of the place, which definitely veers toward clubby, replete with a DJ spinning in the corner and blaring music that made actual conversation difficult. Naturally, I'd prefer more of a focused experience, emphasizing the food rather than the scene. On the other hand, Gordon Ramsay was here this evening celebrating his birthday, and we even got a taste of his leftover sake...

République Restaurant
624 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
310.362.6115
www.republiquela.com
Tue 12/03/2013, 08:00p-11:20p

Republique Exterior

I think it's pretty safe to say that, outside of Trois Mec and possibly Connie & Ted's or Hinoki and the Bird, Republique's probably the most anticipated opening of 2013. Situated in the old Campanile spot, the place debuted on November 25th after a couple weeks of soft opening, the work of husband-and-wife team Walter Manzke and Margarita Manzke, as well as partner Bill Chait. It's a restaurant-bakery-cafe concept that's been in the works for over a year (and conceptually, for over five years), and represents Chef Manzke's long-awaited return to the LA dining scene, a sort of manifestation of the bistro-meets-bistronomy slant that he's been considering for some time.

For those of you who haven't been keeping up with Manzke since his departure from Church & State in March 2010, he followed up that position with a tenure at the Chicago-based hospitality group Lettuce Entertain You, consulting at LEY's Brasserie Jo, among other ventures. He continued to pop up now and then, cooking at various one-night-only engagements: at BreadBar, the Bocuse d'Or USA Benefit at Providence, two turns at Test Kitchen, and even an Ibaraki benefit dinner. Manzke also started consulting at Le Saint Amour in Culver City, staying there for some time before taking the reins at Milo & Olive in April 2012. After leaving M&O, he and Marge traveled to the Philippines to open Wildflour Café + Bakery in Manila with Marge's sister Ana de Ocampo (they debuted a second location the following year, with another to come in 2014), then did another run at the new Test Kitchen at Bestia. Manzke started working on Republique full bore following the closure of Campanile, but also took time out to launch PettyCash in the old Playa space in May.

Republique's current menu sort of reads like an updated version of the one he instituted over at Church & State back in the day, with a few of the dishes--the tarte flambée, the escargots--being almost straight carryovers. It's bistro fare in essence, but with some of the Chef's own twists thrown in for good measure. To drink, think cocktails by Julian Cox protégé Erik Lund (MessHall, Rivera), and a fairly extensive francocentric wine list managed by Beverage Director Taylor Parsons (Mozza, Spago, Campanile). Corkage, meanwhile, is set at $30 a bottle. Click for larger versions.

Smash / Harvard (with Honors) / California Carrot

Smash / Harvard (with Honors) / California Carrot

Smash [$10.00] | basil-infused rye, meyer lemon
Harvard (with Honors) [$12.00] | cognac, punt e mes, chartreuse, bitters
California Carrot [$13.00] | mezcal, beet jam
Given that Lund was behind the cocktails, we felt compelled to give each one a go, starting with this trio. The Smash was a thoroughly inventive take on the old school family of drinks, a refreshing amalgam of citrus-y and boozy notes beautifully enveloped by the herb-y aromatics of basil. I quite liked the Harvard (with Honors) as well, which had an almost Asian-y tint on the nose and a great mix of bittersweet flavors to go along with the heft of the cognac. Last was the California Carrot, another winner with its sugary, yet veggie-like qualities that beautifully balanced out the smoky taste of the mezcal--a great back and forth here.

Iced Oysters [$3.50/each] | Shigoku, washington / Blackberry Point, prince edward island
Huîtres were a natural way to start, and we chose two of the six varietals on offer tonight. The Blackberry Points were new to me, and quite delicious: plump and satisfying to the bite, with a creamy quality and a subtle, growing salinity--very balanced. The Shigokus, meanwhile, were on point as well, coming out meaty and crisp, with a strong brine from the get go set against an almost fruity sweetness.

Gulf White Prawns [$16.00] | green cabbage, persimmon, pistachio, chili, lime
This next dish actually reminded us a bit of the well-known hamachi salad from LudoBites, and it was just as good, maybe even better. The prawns themselves were wonderfully rare, ocean-y, and snappy to the bite, a great expression of the sea that perfectly paired with the mélange of disparate textures and tastes going on--a perfect composition of herbaceous, sour, sweet, savory, and acid, all finished with a gorgeous undercurrent of heat.

Hamachi Crudo [$19.00] | citrus, celery, jalapeño, crispy wild rice
The crudo didn't quite have the explosive flavors of the prawns, but was enjoyable nonetheless, the slick, fatty fish tinged with a hit of citrus and the salty savor of those rice crisps, all while the jalapeño contributed just the right amount of creeping spice to the dish.

Grass-Fed Beef Tartare [$18.00] | tarragon aioli, pickled red onion, potato chips
The tartar was another standout, and probably one of the best iterations of the dish I've had. Think classic flavors, but evolved, with the general tartness of the course beautifully accented by the zing of tarragon. I loved the potato chips as well, their crunch and salt forming a great foil to the meat.

Escargots en Croûte [$12.00] | garlic, parsley
The escargots represent a sort of throwback to the Chef's days at Church & State. The snails were utterly classic in essence: herby, buttery, and oh-so satisfying, with a slight bitterness that worked well with the pastry crust here.

Warm Baguette [$0.00] | on request
At this point, we requested a loaf of the complementary bread to sop up the remaining liquid from the snails. The baguette was on point, and the butter was delightfully flavorful as well, but I wished that it were a touch softer in consistency.

Fair Hills Farms Fuji Apple / Collins du Jour / Daiquiri Martinique

Fair Hills Farms Fuji Apple / Collins du Jour / Daiquiri Martinique

Fair Hills Farms Fuji Apple [$12.00] | whiskey, apple brandy, vermont maple
Collins du Jour [$10.00] | dry vermouth, grapefruit, tonic
Daiquiri Martinique [$12.00] | rhum agricole, lime
Our second troika of cocktails started with the Fair Hills Farms Fuji Apple, a lovely concoction that really tasted of the season with its delightful core of sweet spice--delish. The Collins du Jour, on the other hand, was much lighter, refreshing even, but still thoroughly enjoyable with is citrus-y, almost aromatic zip. I also liked the Daiquiri Martinique, a classic combination of lime and rum that managed to be straightforward, yet genuinely rewarding at the same time.

Eggs on Toast [$12.00] | santa barbara uni, soft-scrambled eggs
The uni was of course a must-try, and did not disappoint with its egg on egg action, the brine of the urchin dutifully paired with the lushness of the scrambled eggs, all while the chive added just the right amount of levity to the mix. The bread, meanwhile, served as an effective base to the dish, though it could've stood to be cut slightly thinner.

Parmesan Beignets [$11.00] | sweet potato, vadouvan, erik's maple syrup
Parm beignets were hot and cheesy, fluffy in the middle but with crisp exteriors, just as you'd expect. I quite liked them alone, but I found the accompanying condiment of sweet potato, vadouvan, and maple veering toward overly sugary, which distracted me from the fritters themselves.

Chanterelle Mushroom [$18.00] | spring brook farm raclette, wild arugula
We opted for one of two wonderfully crisp, near-paper-thin tarte flambées, the other of which was Manzke's bacon-onion version from C&S. The chanterelle-topped incarnation here was quite nice indeed, with a subtle sweetness to pair against the earthiness of those 'shrooms, all with the arugula imparting a well-placed brightness to the mix.

Negroni Blanc [$10.00] | gin, americano, vermouth blanc
I'm told that Lund's favorite drink is the Negroni, so I can't be surprised that the version here was one of the best I've had. I found it eminently balanced, a masterpiece of boozy, sweet, and bitter flavors beautifully enhanced by just the right amount of citric goodness.

Pig Ear Salad [$11.00] | crispy pork rinds, raw root vegetables, chili vinaigrette
Manzke's pig ear salad was to my liking as well, the crunchy-yet-gelatinous slivers of mild oreille augmented by the overtly pork-y rinds, with the whole shebang smartly evened out by the spicy, acidic nuances in the dish. This was actually much lighter than I thought it'd be.

Emrich-Schönleber, Riesling Halenberg Großes Gewächs, 2008, Nahe, Germany

With all the cocktails dispensed with, it was time for Parsons to shine. We told him all the dishes we had remaining, and he came up with the Emrich-Schönleber, Riesling Halenberg Großes Gewächs, 2008, Nahe, Germany [$115] to pair. It was a great example of the grape, floral and a touch herby on the nose, but very food-friendly when tasted, with a dry, minerally quality and just enough citrus. This one even convinced a Riesling-hater in our group.

Wood Oven Brussels Sprouts [$14.00] | frisée, lardons, soft egg
Brussels, roasted and fried, were a must-order for me as well. This was a classic frisée salad in effect, the traditional flavors (lush egg, salty lardons) of the dish augmented by the bitter, roasty qualities of the sprouts.

Spaghetti Rustichella [$19.00] | manila clams, razor clams, garlic, chili flake
Republique's pasta is worth trying as well, as evinced in the spaghetti. The noodles arrived at the right consistency, and were a superb complement to the comforting salinity of the clams here. My favorite part, though, was the chili, which imparted an undertone of heat to the dish that really crept up on you.

Risotto Nero [$19.00] | atlantic calamari, mediterranean octopus
Obviously I had to sample the risotto as well, and it didn't let me down either. The rice was pretty much spot on, enhanced by the brine of squid ink and a squeeze of citrus, but the key here was the combination of octopus and calamari. The former gave the dish a meaty, savory quality, while the latter was milder and supple, a great textural counterpoint.

Cook Ranch Pig's Head [$12.00] | lentils, bacon, frisée, farm egg
Our last savory of the night was the tête de cochon, sort of another take on the traditional salade lyonnaise. Think unabashedly porky, salty flavors, enveloped by the richness of that runny egg while the frisée served as a moderating base to the meat. What I thought was crucial here was the incorporation of lentils, which lent an earthy weight to things that really rounded out the course well.

Sage Panna Cotta [$10.00] | butternut squash, pumpkin seeds
Time for the sugary stuff. The panna cotta was a shining example of the dessert, coming out wonderfully nutty and savory, with the sage contributing a great aromatic component to the dessert. Just some really smart, complex flavors overall.

Pôt de Crème [$9.00] | caramel
Our pot de crème was far more straightforward, but just as satisfying nonetheless--a properly sweet, near-decadent dessert offset by just enough nutty goodness.

Passion Fruit Tart [$12.00] | mascarpone sabayon
The special dessert of the evening, a passion fruit tart showed off a light, almost fluffy custard, with its sweet-sour interplay cut by the creaminess of the mascarpone. Lovely crust here, too.

Bomboloni [$12.00] | hazelnut ice cream, chocolate sauce
We concluded our meal with what sort of amounted to a cross between a profiterole and a doughnut. No matter, they were pretty damn tasty, a combination of chocolate and hazelnut that showed flashes of Ferrero Rocher.

Republique's been in the works for a long time, and I'm glad to see Manzke's vision finally come to fruition. It's like he's taken the energy and some of the food from Church & State, but massaged it into a something a bit more refined, a bit more elegant. The cooking draws from the bistro aesthetic at its core, but the dishes are largely conceptualized and presented in a fashion that's just that much more interesting. Meanwhile, service, coordinated by GM Christian Philippo (The Bazaar, Patina, Le Louis XV, Paul Bocuse), was spot on, and the beverage program is to be commended as well. The concept really works in the space, but what you should be even more excited about is what's going to happen in the back room early next year, when Manzke busts out some of his more ambitious cooking, in tasting menu format no less--should be good.

Sushi Ota
4529 Mission Bay Dr, San Diego, CA 92109
858.270.5670
www.otasushi.com
Wed 11/27/2013, 05:30p-07:40p

Sushi Ota Exterior

After hitting up Addison the previous night, we made a quick stop at Sushi Ota before heading back up north. Yukito Ota's eponymous restaurant has long been known as the "best" sushi joint (and one of the best places, period) in San Diego, despite its location in a nondescript strip mall in sleepy section of Pacific Beach. It's a restaurant that I'd been wanting to try out for years now, one that has served as the training grounds for a number of the area's top sushi chefs: Roger Nakamura at Hane Sushi, Robert Nakamura at Shino Sushi, and Toshi Tsutsumi at the defunct Toshi-San Sushi and Shabu Shabu.

About the Chef: Born in 1952, Chef Ota grew up in Japan, and first got bitten by the sushi bug at age 13, after watching a television show about a sushi-making family. Upon finishing junior high, he started his formal culinary training, apprenticing in Kobe for 10 years before finally becoming a full-fledged chef at age 25. In early 1982, he was working in Japan when a friend of a friend needed help running the sushi bar at the New Otani Hotel in Los Angeles. Ota was 29 at the time, and decided to move to the US on a three-year work visa. He opted to stick around, of course, and eventually made his way down south, finding work at Kobe Misono on Mission Boulevard, as well as at Mr. Sushi in Pacific Beach. It was at Mister that Ota first began making a name for himself, and after eight years of saving up, he ventured out on his own and opened Sushi Ota. It was 1990, and the restaurant has been going strong ever since.

Sushi Ota Drink Menu (Wine, Shochu, Soft Drinks)

As far as Sushi Ota's printed menu is concerned, it doesn't look all that promising, featuring a wide variety of items that you wouldn't expect from a purist sushi joint: think dynamites, chicken teriyaki, even the dreaded Philly Roll. It's not a good sign, but the key (like at so many other sushi-ya) is to plant yourself down at the bar and go omakase, which was $90 tonight for 14 courses. If you don't want to do that, at least order from the list of daily specials written up behind the counter. Meanwhile, to drink, you'll find a pretty good sake selection, along with a smattering of beers and wines. Click for larger versions.

Our drink of choice tonight was the Hakkaisan Junmai Ginjo [$75], always a good choice with its viscous, yet crisp body and super floral, fruity, subtly rice-y qualities tinged with just a bit of boozy heat.

1: Age Tako
Fritters of octopus were delightful, super tender on the inside, yet with a slightly crisp, wonderfully savory crust, heightened just a smidge by the squiggles of sweet-ish sauce. I thoroughly enjoyed them alone, but the accompanying asparagus was a welcomed addition as well, imparting a touch of astringency and a well-placed crunch to things.

Sashimi

2: Sashimi
The sashimi course brought out no less than four cuts for us to enjoy. In the front was amberjack, which I found creamy on the palate, yet clean and mild, with a softly saline taste that was great with a dab of soy. Next we had the geoduck, which showed off a firm, crunchy consistency along with a strong, growing brine that was perfectly offset by the heat of the accompanying wasabi. Toro, meanwhile, was as lush as you'd expect, nearly melt-in-your-mouth, but with a subtleness to it that went swimmingly with the umami-rich essence of the shoyu. Finally, my favorite of the bunch was the San Diego uni (the chefs here generally prefer it to the Santa Barbara specimens), which really conveyed a faultless balance between sweet and saline nuances that stood alone sans accoutrements.

Zensai

3: Zensai
Next was a fivesome of various goodies. Japanese eggplant was surprisingly satisfying thanks to the nuttiness of its paired sesame seeds, while batonnets of persimmon were a welcomed treat as well, their sweetness balanced by a coating of earthy tofu. Japanese king mackerel, meanwhile, was my favorite item here, coming out perfectly cooked with a wonderfully salty, savory smack that I loved. The lobster was also a joy to eat: tender and sweet, with a great smoky char flavor to it as well. Lastly, we had the sazae tsubuyaki, basically grilled sea snail, a chewy, briny delicacy accented by the bitterness of the gastropod's entrails; be sure to sup up the remaining liquid in the shell.

4: Kakiage Tempura
The final course prior to the sushi was a tempura of shrimp, onion, and various vegetables, served along with gingko nuts. I found the kakiage a balanced, multifaceted preparation of the Japanese staple, with the fritters great with a dab of the tentsuyu, and even better with a sprinkle of green tea salt.

Hirame

5: Hirame
Nigiri time. First was halibut, a slightly chewy presentation that was delicate in flavor, the wasabi and soy really working hand-in-hand with the fish, while the sweet-ish rice made itself known toward the back end.

6: Kinmedai
Golden eye snapper was a favorite of mine, a full-flavored fish beautifully accented by a light touch of char and a bright citrus-y zing.

Toro

7: Toro
Fatty tuna, meanwhile, was super melty, yet with a certain lightness to it at the same time. Very good with a dab of soy.

Kohada

8: Kohada
Gizzard shad was firm and fishy, just as you'd expect, with the heat of the wasabi forming a fitting foil.

Uni

9: Uni
Sea urchin was another standout, its cool, focused brine perfectly offset by its inherent sweetness.

Ikura

10: Ikura
Salmon roe was also commendable, a bevy of salty pops moderated by the crisp nori wrapper.

Anago

11: Anago
Sea eel was quite nice as well, savory yet sweet, but with a pleasantly bitter quality to it on the close.

12: Umeshiso Yamaimo Hosomaki / Negitoro Hosomaki
Our last sushi course of the omakase comprised two sorts of hosomaki. In the back was a version consisting of ume, shiso, and yamaimo, a cool, tangy roll offset by the umami-rich nori while the yam gave the bites a somewhat mucilaginous consistency. There was also, of course, the negitoro, a spot on presentation of the classic, with a fantastic astringency from the scallion.

Kuroge Wagyu Sashimi [$30.00]
At this point, we opted to supplement our set menu and started with the Japanese beef. The wagyu was expectedly fatty (look at that marbling), and flavorful, with an almost steak-like character to it, but was a bit chewier than I would've liked unfortunately.

Sanma

Sanma [$4.25]
Mackerel pike was a must-try given its status in Japanese autumnal cuisine. I quite liked this one, its elegantly fishy quality tempered by the sliver of pickled kelp on top.

Kibinago [$3.50]
A first for me here was the silver-stripe round herring, or slender splat, which had a refined, creeping brine that was evened out by the small mound of ginger up top.

Here, we see Executive Chef Shige-san (who took care of us most of the night) showing off our next course.

Yagara

Yagara [$4.25]
A rarity at most sushi joints, trumpetfish had a delightfully snappy, yet supple texture and a mild savor brightened up with a bit of wasabi.

Tamago

Tamago [$1.50]
The Ota-branded tamago was a classic interpretation of the dish, coming out cool, dense, and eggy, the band of nori adding a distinctly savory element.

Chef/Owner Yukito Ota at work plating.

13: Asari no Misoshiru
The miso soup was hot, hearty, and comforting, the traditional flavors of the broth enhanced by the ocean-y character of the clams.

14: Azuki no Aisukurimu
Dessert was a delectable red bean ice cream (though I could've also chosen black sesame or green tea).

For as long as I can remember, Ota's been the place for sushi south of LA/OC, and for good reason it seems. Tonight's dinner was a strong showing, with a tasty selection of sushi and commendable tsumami dishes to start as well, all at a very reasonable $100-ish price point to boot. I think the only thing holding the place back is that they still have to cater to the California roll crowd, so I'm curious as to how Ota's oft-praised, more purist contemporary, Kaito, compares.

#LALovesPI Tasting Benefit
8730 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.443.7782
nightout.com/events/lalovespi
Sun 12/08/2013, 05:10p-09:30p

This past Sunday, a number of the City's movers and shakers in the culinary and cocktail scenes convened at the newly-opened Church Key to support Typhoon Haiyan (Yolanda) relief efforts, raising funds for the Philippines-based anti-poverty organization Gawad Kalinga and its US subsidiary. Participants donated their time and product for the event, and thus 100% of the proceeds (over $10,000) went toward GK's Operation Walang Iwanan ("no one left behind"), which focuses on the provisioning of food and supplies, reconstruction of damaged areas, and relocation of displaced persons affected by the disaster. The event was the brainchild of Cari Hah, Ken Baranda, and Devon Espinosa, who put together the fundraiser in just a few weeks time.

Nate Oliver, Josh Goldman

Schlitz-ologist Nathaniel "Nate" Oliver (Harvard & Stone) does his best Asian impression, while Josh Goldman (Soigné Group) is clearly working on a beard of ZZ Top proportions.

Josh made the highly aromatic Trilla for Manila (Altos reposado, Templeton rye, maraschino, Angostura), while Nate presented the only beer cocktail in the group, the prosaically-named, yet refreshing #1 (Schlitz, pineapple, Bénédictine, bitters, Becherovka).

My first bites were Parmesan Dumplings in Broth from Steve Samson (Sotto) and a kare-kare-inspired Oxtail Stew Croquette with Peanut Butter Sauce from Kevin Luzande (Acabar).

Joey Bernardo, Jaymee Mandeville

Joey Bernardo (Harvard & Stone) mixes it up with Jaymee Mandeville (Bacardi).

Jaquiri

Both of 'em were rockin' Bacardi tonight, Jaymee with her tropical Jaquiri (Bacardi, jackfruit purée, lime) and Joey with his Honey Cebu-Boo Child (Bacardi, honey syrup, lemon juice, cherry bitters, mango/calamansi foam), which made great use of the bittersweet maraschino but which also should've just been named Honey Cebu Boo.

Lamb Belly was probably the heartiest dish of the evening, while the Pork and Radish Mapo from Micah Wexler (Wexler's Deli) was a crowd-pleaser as well.

Ben Leipzig Scott, Andrei Kissin

Assisted here by Ben Leipzig Scott (MessHall), Andrei Kissin (Rivera) created the very autumnal Noynoy's Last Drag (coconut palm sugar, tiki bitters, Evan Williams, atomized Batavia arrack, scorched cinnamon), named after President Benigno Aquino III of the Philippines.

Nick Meyer, Kiowa Bryan

Nick Meyer (all of Bill Chait's places basically) teamed up with Kiowa Bryan (Eveleigh) and gave us two drinks. First was the super citrus-y Calamansi Love (calamansi, lemon, Aviation gin, Thai chili, pamplemousse, dried mango), which was followed up by the almost dessert-y (think halo-halo) Ube-Bee I Like It Raw (ube, black peppercorn, falernum, Aviation gin, dry curaçao, egg white).

Ray Garcia (Fig) served up a dish of Coconut-Crusted Scallop, which I accompanied with the Nitro Green Mango Shake (Grey Goose La Poire, agave, lime, green mango, nutmeg) from Devon Espinosa (The Church Key).

In the kitchen

At this point, I was beckoned into the kitchen. Kris Morningstar (Ray's & Stark Bar) certainly looks content.

Devon Espinosa, Anabelle Espinosa, Kevin Luzande, Marian Bacol-Uba

Devon Espinosa, Anabelle Espinosa, Kevin Luzande, Marian Bacol-Uba

Left: Devon and mom Anabelle Espinosa, along with event PR rep and co-organizer Marian Bacol-Uba.
Right: Gotta pose for the bloggers (conspicuously absent tonight: CoC).

Micah Wexler, Eric Greenspan

Left: Micah and Eric Greenspan (The Foundry) behind the pass.
Right: Kevin, looking gangsta with Marian.

Steven Fretz (The Church Key, Top Round) gleefully presented an order of his much bandied about Pig Ear Cheetos with Avocado Mousse.

Cari Hah, Dan Bayha

Dan Bayha (The Church Key) backs up Cari Hah (Peking Tavern), adorable as ever with her Strawberry Kalamansi Caipirinha (Leblon cachaça, Giffard Fraises des Bois, kalamansi juice, lime juice, simple syrup, liquid nitro).

Marian Bacol-Uba

At this point, we broke for a bit so that the participants could say a few words. Joined on stage by actor and co-MC James Kyson, Marian kicked things off by channeling her inner Mariah, then passed the mic over to Tony Olaes, Gawad Kalinga USA Chairman & CEO, who assured us that we were all Filipino tonight.

Steven Fretz

Next up: Steven and Perry Cheung (Phorage).

The newly-married Sally Camacho Mueller (Pastry Chef, Jonathan Club) and Chef Kevin.

Eric Greenspan

Chef Greeny, raising an eyebrow The Rock style, alongside Ian Opina (Pastry Chef, The Church Key).

Devon Espinosa

One and a Half Filipinos: Devon and Andrei.

Some solid action over at the silent auction (which featured alotta booze); I ended up taking home a pair of Leblon gift baskets.

Sally Camacho

Sally, semi-photobombed by Greeny, presents her Pandan Ice Cream, Dulcey Sweet Corn Pudding, Puffed Black Rice, Cashew Nougatine.

Nick Meyer

Caught purple-handed: Nick's sticky fingers were from working with ube, not getting busy with Grimace.

More desserts: a cheesy Ensaymada and some Sugar-Glazed Purple Potato Puffs.

The Church Key Dining Room

Back in the dining room...

Kevin Luzande's girlfriend, Marian Bacol-Uba

Left: Kevin Luzande's girlfriend with duckface-peace sign Marian.
Right: Bottarga, Burrata, and Shiro Ebi from Anthony Carron (800 Degrees), perhaps the most unconventional bites of the night.

Nathaniel Oliver, Josh Goldman

Left: Nate and Josh in happier times.
Right: Cari and Leblon rep Rachel Bennett slangin'.

Devon Espinosa

Left: Devon thanks the team for a job well done--all the people in the black shirts were volunteers.
Right: A few final words from MC Marian (drop the mic).

Sushi Taro (Omakase Counter)
1503 17th St NW, Washington, DC 20036
202.462.8999
www.sushitaro.com
Wed 10/02/2013, 07:10p-10:45p

Capping off my Washington food tour was a place that I'd been wanting to try for a while now: Sushi Taro, oft regarded as the Japanese destination in the City, and one of the top in the country in fact, known for its lengthy, elaborate kaiseki-inspired tastings set at the restaurant's Omakase Counter. Taro is owned and operated by two brothers; the elder, Jin Yamazaki, runs the front-of-the-house and the business/marketing side of things, while 43-year-old Nobuhiro "Nobu" Yamazaki is in command of the kitchen, joined by Chef de Cuisine Masaya "Masa" Kitayama.

The Yamazaki clan hails from the city of Nagaoka in Japan's Niigata prefecture, and was never really in the restaurant business, but the family moved to the United States in 1985 to help a family member open her own place. However, they decided to stick around, and ended up debuting their own establishment, Sushi Taro, in July 1986, situated in a second floor space above a CVS. Both brothers helped with the restaurant growing up, and Nobu even went back to Japan for three years to train in Mie Prefecture, following a detour to art school. Sushi Taro cemented itself as a popular neighborhood sushi spot, serving teriyaki chicken, California rolls, and other such pedestrian items.

Following his father's retirement, Nobu took over the business in 2003, and was joined by Jin, who'd worked FOH at some other eateries in the region. The restaurant continued to thrive under this new leadership regime, but in late 2008, the Yamazakis made a drastic decision to change the direction of Taro's cooking. As a result, they shuttered for three months and completely remodeled the space, cutting the seating capacity from 120 to about 70 and instituting decidedly higher-end menu options. This change was met with resistance from Taro's old-school clientele, and the business struggled at first, but it wasn't long before the place was recognized as one of the top restaurants in the area.

Sushi Taro Omakase Counter

Sushi Taro offers a number of à la carte and kaiseki-inspired tasting menu options, but here at the six-seater, reservations-required, 7:00-start, single-seating Omakase Counter tucked away at the rear of the building, you'll enjoy a seasonally-changing menu of 20+ courses with no set price (the damage tonight was a totally reasonable $160). Nobu-san makes for an affable, enthusiastic host, and I really appreciated the one-on-one interaction we had.

To drink, you'll find a very nice sake selection, shochu, and some wines, along with a commendable offering of Japanese beers (an interesting note: Nobu-san home brews). For tonight's dinner, I requested a beverage pairing at $100, which the Chef had no problem accommodating. Click for larger versions.

Speaking of that pairing, the first beverage to appear was the Kirin-Zan, Junmai Daiginjo, Niigata prefecture, a well-regarded 45% seimai-buai sake from producer Kirinzan Shuzo. I found it quite refined, and medium in body, with a great balance between fruity and ricey nuances, all underscored with just a bit of a boozy backbone. Clean, crisp, and very tasty.

1: Goma Tofu
I began with one of the Chef's signature dishes, a "tofu" that's made daily from roasted sesame seeds, then grilled over housemade charcoal and served with wasabi, pickled soy beans, and a sesame paste. The dish really showed off the spirit of goma: its fluffy, almost marshmallow-y interior, slightly crisp, substantial skin, and nutty, savor complexities, augmented by the zip of wasabi.

2: Kaki to Ankimo
A persimmon (the season had just started) arrived filled to the brim with monkfish liver, poached Washington oyster, egg, asparagus, nori, and chrysanthemum. There was a lot going on here, but the key was how the briny, earthy base of the course worked so well with the sweetness present, with the asparagus adding a brightness that really countered the salinity of the oyster.

3: Santa Barbara Uni
Next, I had a rather stunning presentation of Santa Barbara uni served in a bath of salt water. This may very well have been the best presentation of raw sea urchin I've ever had. What I loved here was how its taste was so utterly clean and focused, the inherent creamy sweetness of the roe on proud display, but perfectly complemented by the comparatively sharp, salty water. Bravo!

Foie Gras 'Kuri'

4: Foie Gras "Kuri"
An ode to the changing seasons, this was a "chestnut" composed of foie gras and fish cake, encased in a coasting of fried somen. The luxuriousness of the liver was expertly displayed, set against the sweet, nutty nuances present, with the kamaboko doing a great job in tempering the assertive flavors at play. Fantastic textures from the noodles, too.

Hassun

5: Hassun
Next was the Chef's platter of no less than seven bite-size seasonal treats. In no particular order:

Sockeye came marinated in vinegar, its full, fatty flavors working in concert with the dill and crunchy, tangy strips of onion.
Steamed Manila clam was coupled with garlic soy, the slightly chewy bivalve imbued with a deep sense of umami goodness.
Sardine was braised for two days, resulting in a particularly tender texture. Chewing wasn't even required, and the fish's immense savory depth worked well against the bite of the myoga.
Matsukaze-yaki was akin to a meatloaf made with chicken, raisin, and pine nuts, giving up an almost fruitcake-esque sweet-nutty character.
Ginko nuts were joined by fish cake, the latter adding a wonderful texture and body to the nuts, while rice crackers imparted a fantastic, finishing crunch.
Burdock was accompanied by mustard and egg yolk, the crisp gobo root conveying a mild taste that transitioned to the heat of the mustard, with the creamy tamago moderating the bite.
Finally, egg yolk was presented with sweet miso and a Brazil nut, the nut offering up an unexpected complement to the lushness of the yolk.

At this point, Nobu-san brought out a series of black lacquer boxes (that he made himself, no less), stacked one atop another. They were then placed on stands and revealed to contain all sorts of prime ingredients to be used in the courses to follow (I would eventually try most of the items by the end of the night). Going from left to right, we have:

Three different cuts of wild Boston tuna: fatty, medium fatty, and regular.
The snapper types: threadfin bream, red sea bream, triggerfish, chicken grunt, red big eye snapper.
Shellfish and roe: sea urchin, salmon roe, Canadian sweet shrimp, New Zealand langoustine, Madagascar prawn.
Silvery skin: mackerel pike, gizzard shad, cured snapper, butterfish, horse mackerel, Boston mackerel.
Jacks and salmon-esque: bonito, Arctic char, New Zealand king salmon, yellowtail kingfish, Hawaiian amberjack.
Odds and ends: sea eel, octopus, egg omelet, monkfish liver.

I was presented with the option of choosing what I wanted for the subsequent sashimi courses, but naturally deferred to the Chef on the matter.

6: Itoyori Dai
The first of eight sashimi courses was the uncommon threadfin bream, delightfully salty with a tangy counterpoint and a lingering brine that I enjoyed.

Sanma

7: Sanma
Mackerel pike is an autumnal specialty so I was happy to see it here, especially with that beautiful cross-hatch patterning. It was a tasty fish, one really enhanced by ginger, and I appreciated the saury's soft, yielding texture as well.

Madai

8: Madai
Red sea bream was just the right amount of chewy, with a delicate relish that was enhanced by the incorporation of 'sabi and soy.

Chutoro

9: Chutoro
Medium toro was soft and utterly silky, and had a restrained fattiness that went superbly with a bit of heat from the wasabi.

Hotate

10: Hotate
Scallop was presented simply with salt and yuzu, the tang of the citrus smartly counteracting the ocean-y notes of the hotate.

To go with the sashimi, I was given the Hakkaisan, Honjozo, Niigata prefecture, which I'd definitely had on multiple occasions before. It wasn't as elegant as the Kirin-zan above, but according to the Chef, the Hakkaisan's a great pairing with sashimi, and he was right. Think drier, more rustic, with a stronger rice character and a spicy alcoholic kick.

11: Hotate no Tamago
Here was a new one for me: scallop roe, with salt and cracked pepper. I found it very intriguing texturally--smooth, crisp, juicy--while taste-wise, think earthy and briny, with a counterbalancing element in the form of what tasted like sesame oil.

Toro

12: Toro
The full-strength fatty tuna was noticeably lusher than its chutoro cousin, a powerhouse of meltingly fatty flavors, keenly countered by a dab of wasabi.

Katsuo

13: Katsuo
Smoked bonito came with garlic and a momiji-ponzu sauce. I really enjoyed the almost "hammy" savor of the fish, which had a tremendous depth of flavor that really worked against the brightness of the greens and daikon.

14: Sujiko to Sake Kawa
Next, fresh sujiko (salmon roe marinated in the sac) was served with a salmon skin cracklin', the intense salinity of the eggs masterfully paired with the salty crunch of kawa. Great to see two facets of the same fish here.

15: Hamo to Matsutake Shabu-Shabu
My shabu-shabu course featured pike conger and matsutake, a showcase of summer and autumn ingredients. The fine-spun nature of the eel paired beautifully with the umami-rich broth, while the mushrooms were even better, an explosion of earthy savors highlighted by a tinge of tartness from what I believe was yuzu. Cozy and comforting.

The next sake was the Takacho - Dai Gin, Junmai Daiginjo Genshu, Nara prefecture. I'd never had anything quite like it before, with its unique effervescence, the result of a natural in-bottle fermentation process. Flavor-wise, we're talking rich, boozy, and sweet, yet very balanced, and very delicious.

16: New Zealand Langoustine
An impressive specimen of New Zealand langoustine was sprinkled with frozen foie gras shavings (a decidedly new-school touch!), the heady relish of the melting liver complementing the creamy brine of the crustacean.

17: Fugu no Ko no Nukazuke
Here was another first for me: fugu roe (note: not the more popular shirako) pickled with rice bran for three years to cleanse the poisons, a specialty of Ishikawa Prefecture. It was done in a chazuke style, with the green tea and rice broth really doing a great job in offsetting the in-your-face saltiness of the eggs.

Searing Wagyu

Above, we see Nobu-san torching the beef used in the course to follow.

18: Miyazaki Wagyu
Rib-eye of Miyazaki beef was rolled with sea urchin, then topped in truffle, forming the most over-the-top luxurious course of the night. It was also one of the most delicious, the amazingly charred, yet fatty beef melding flawlessly with the succulent uni, all while the entire experience was enveloped in a veil of truffle-y goodness.

19: Mongarakawahagi
And now, we begin the parade of sushi. Triggerfish was yet another first for me, this particular example served with monkfish liver and momiji-ponzu. The ankimo really worked well here, its ocean-y heft complementing the fish gorgeously, all while the chile ponzu added a brilliant touch of heat to the course.

Ebodai

20: Ebodai
Butterfish was also a rarity, and really was as buttery as its name would imply, but also wonderfully salty and tasty at the same time.

21: Hokkyokuiwana
Arctic char was somewhat similar to sakura masu, meaty in consistency, with an apparent fatty quality that went faultlessly with a bit of soy and wasabi.

22: Maguro Zuke
Marinated tuna was a great example of the sushi staple, with a fantastic shoyu depth that played beautifully with the shari.

Aoyagi

23: Aoyagi
Orange clam was super briny, with a particularly satisfying bite to it and some wonderfully intricate knife work.

Kohada

24: Kohada
Gizzard shad was weaved in impressive fashion, demonstrating a level of artistry not seen since Urasawa's sayori. The kohada showed off its signature firm texture, and in terms of taste, it was totally on point as well, with the fishy thrusts here countered by a vinegar-y tang.

Ebi

25: Ebi
I'm not usually a fan of cooked shrimp sushi, but the Madagascar prawn was superb: still snappy, with its salinity and sweetness intact.

Kasugo

26: Kasugo
Baby red snapper was sesame crusted and sprinkled with salt, resulting in an utterly delectable experience that really paired the fish and goma commendably.

Ikura

27: Ikura
Salmon roe was classic in presentation, its saltiness a flawless match to the nori wrapper.

Saba

28: Saba
Mackerel was rather nice as well, conveying a forceful, yet not overwhelming brine that really worked for me.

Anago

29: Anago
Sea eel was hot and hearty, finished with a sweet-ish sauce--just what you'd want.

My last drink of the night was a shochu, specifically the Kitaya Nihon no Kokoro "Spirit of Japan", Dai-Ginjyo Shochu from Fukuoka, an off-menu selection distilled from rice and aged five years. It was probably the best version of the beverage I'd had, with an immensely clean, precise quality to it that really showed me the characteristics of the rice while also packing a boozy punch.

Isaki

30: Isaki
Another uncommon sushi sight was the chicken grunt, a meaty, substantial cut that had a fantastic touch of char astringency to it.

Uni

31: Uni
A gorgeous tongue of Santa Barbara sea urchin was sprinkled with fleur de sel, the inherent sweetness of the roe heightened by the application of that salt.

Toro

32: Toro
Tuna belly never fails to satisfy, and here it was spot on, the fattiness of the fish balanced by the slight tartness in the rice.

Tamago

33: Tamago
Taro's egg omelet was of the cool, sweet, eggy variety (as opposed to the cake-like castella variant), replete with the expected "hammy" savor.

34: Kintokidai
My last piece of sushi was another one that I hadn't tried before. The red big eye, or threadfin big eye, was all about texture, displaying a somewhat chewy bite that recalled engawa, along with a mild, subtle flavor.

As far as desserts go, you have your pick of "mini sweets" from Taro's menu. I also took this opportunity to take a gander at the restaurant's off-menu sake list, shown above. Click for larger versions.

35a: Hoji-Cha Pudding | roasted green tea cream pudding w/ dark caramel
My first dessert was the roasted green tea pudding, a creamy little concoction that had the sugary sweetness of caramel perfectly countered by the astringency of that tea.

Anmitsu

35b: Anmitsu | green tea ice cream served over an assortment of mochi, red bean, and flavored jelly cubes, topped w/ dark syrup
Here was another dessert that masterfully mixed the bitterness of green tea with overtly sugary flavors, all in a multitude of disparate textures.

35c: Caramel Mochi Ice | mochi mixed milk ice cream, topped w/ fresh caramel syrup
Last up was the mochi ice cream, which displayed a delightfully gooey texture and subtly sweet taste that went along swimmingly with the saccharine smack of caramel. Yum--I could've used a few more scoops of this.

Jin Yamazaki, Nobu Yamazaki

The Taro brothers: Jin Yamazaki and Nobu Yamazaki.

When the Yamazakis mustered up the gall to shutter and reinvent Sushi Taro, they had the goal of altering and elevating Japanese cuisine in DC. In that regard, the brothers have most certainly succeeded. The cooking was pristine, utterly traditional at its core, yet imbued with unique, personal flourishes along the way. It's a refined, elegant style of cooking that's nonetheless bold in its own manner, and really captures the heart of Japanese culinary tradition. Not only is Taro the best sushi restaurant in Washington, it's one of the best restaurants, period, truly rivaling the finest Japanese meals I've had. One of my top meals of 2013, and an absolute must-try for any foodie visiting DC.

Guisados Tacos
1261 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
213.250.7600
www.guisados.co
Fri 11/15/2013, 08:05p-10:00p

Without a doubt, one of LA's most beloved taco joints is Boyle Heights' Guisados (literally "stews"), a relative newcomer to the scene that opened in 2010 to rave reviews for its hearty, homey braises served atop thick, homemade tortillas. The restaurant was the work of Chef Ricardo Diaz and longtime real estate man Armando De La Torre, the duo behind Cook's Tortas (ca. early 2008) and Dorados cevicheria (ca. late 2006), both in Monterey Park.

Note, however, that the partners split up in late 2012, prior to the debut of Guisados Echo Park at the start of this year (helmed by Armando Jr.). The break resulted in the shuttering of Dorados in April, with Diaz venturing out on his own and opening the more upscale, gastropub-y Bizarra Capital in Whittier, set inside a former outpost of Siete Mares (a chain that his family owns). This was followed up in August by Colonia Taco Lounge in La Puente, also at an old Siete Mares location. As for the De La Torres, they're planning to launch a third Guisados in Downtown in the coming months, situated inside the Spring Arcade building.

Guisados Menu

Written on the restaurant's signature chalkboard, Guisados' menu is pretty straightforward, and nearly identical to the one at the original location, though with the notable lack of tamales. Tacos are the star here, with no less than 15 standard versions on offer at a given moment, each priced at $2.50 (or $2.75 for seafood). Newbies might want to consider the $6.99 Sampler, which allows you to choose six mini tacos from all but the starred varieties. Brunch is also a possibility here, and I've heard that they're planning to do breakfast as well.

Guisados Drink Menu

To drink, you'll find four agua frescas and your typical soft drinks, though word is that the restaurant's trying to obtain a beer and wine license. Note also the special taco off to the side, lengua (tongue) tonight, but also mollejas (sweetbreads) and birria (goat) in the past.

Guisados Dining Room

You order at the counter, but your food is delivered to the dining room, which happens to be decorated with various pieces from local artists (some of it available for sale).

Guisados Dining Patio

There's also an outdoor dining patio, which features live music on some nights.

Melon

Melon [$2.00] | cantaloupe
Armando Palmero [$2.00] | Limon (lemon, lime) + Jamaica (hibiscus tea)
The agua frescas make for a natural accompaniment to the tacos. The Melon variety was arguably my favorite, with a bright, refreshing quality to it that beautifully conveyed the essence of cantaloupe. Meanwhile, the whimsically-named Armando Palmero was a take on the classic Arnold Palmer, substituting Limon and Jamaica for lemonade and iced tea. It really did recall the original drink though, with its tasty, fun, sweet 'n' sour flavors.

Cochinita Pibil
Since we wanted to try all the different types of tacos, we opted for two sampler platters to start. I went straight for the puerco pibil, a tasty little morsel that showed off a sweet, savory character with a delightful growing spice, all offset by the crunch and tang of the pickled red onion.

Tinga

Tinga
Guisados'tinga (made with shredded chicken) is perhaps one of their more well-known fillings, and tonight it was definitely enjoyable, conveying a smoky depth and spice to it that paired swimmingly with the lush sliver of avocado on top.

Chicharron
Chicharrones were long-cooked shards of fried pork rinds, gooey and gelatinous scraps that I liked much more than I thought I would. Think immensely porcine, with a creeping heat and an excellent base of black bean.

Hongos con Cilantro
Sautéed cremini mushrooms were earthy and delicious, working great alongside the richness of cotija and bright cilantro condiment drizzled on top.

Chorizo

Chorizo
The chorizo was one of my favorites, a pretty fantastic mince of pork that gave off a particularly profound savoriness and subtle spice, all moderated by the frijoles.

Calabacitas
The calabacitas was surprisingly delish, a mélange of squash, tomatoes, onions, and corn that made for a great balance of disparate textures and tastes.

Mole Poblano
The chicken mole taco was another highlight for me, arguably the most complex preparation here with a deft blend of spicy, sweet, savory, and nutty flavors, augmented by the crunch of those toasty grains sprinkled on top.

Quesadilla
The quesadilla is almost nothing like what you're thinking, instead consisting of a thick slab of queso panela, cooked à la plancha. It's a sweet, squeaky, wonderfully charred concoction, made better by the addition of a swirl of chipotle crema.

Chuleta en Chile Verde
The pork chop was another standout, great texturally, with a superb counterpoint to the meat in the form of that delightfully piquant salsa. Very well balanced.

Bistek en Salsa Roja
Another winner was the steak in red sauce, a perfectly integrated bite that showed off the bistek in concert with the earthy black bean and sweet-ish, tangy sauce.

Frijoles con Queso
Frijoles accompany most of the tacos at Guisados, but on this one, they were made the hero in the dish, their smoky weight conveyed with the weight of the cheese.

Steak Picado
The last of the dozen items on my sampler was the chopped steak with peppers, another favorite of mine with its bright, verdant, cilantro-laced sauce that went gorgeously with the hearty, yet subtle bits of meat here.

Horchata [$3.00] | milk, cinnamon, rice, sugar
Jamaica [$2.00] | hibiscus tea
The Horchata was obviously a must-try, and Guisados' was quite lovely: grainy, yet silky, with a particularly intense sweet spice to it; I've even heard that it can be ordered in popsicle form as well. The Jamaica, meanwhile, was sweet, tart, and oh-so floral, a good counter to the heat of the tacos.

Cochinita Pibil (Level 10) [$2.50]
At this point, we were done with our samplers and opted for full sized tacos to finish off the menu. Guisados'cochinita is available in ten heat levels, and one of my dining companions just had to go for the max. It's basically the same as the normal taco, but with the addition of roasted chiles and a habanero-based salsa on top. Think of a sharp, sweet, pinpointed, yet lingering spice, one that was way too much for me and overpowered the otherwise tasty pork. Even Armando Junior admits that this is more for novelty than consumption.

Chiles Torreados [$2.50]
If the preceding isn't hot enough for ya, there's also this: habanero, jalapeño, serrano, and Thai chiles, sautéed and coated with a plentiful helping of that habanero salsa above--some real chile on chile action. Think tears, sweat, a runny nose--the only way I was able to make it through this one was through downing plenty of that horchata.

Lengua

Lengua [$3.00]
The evening's special was beef tongue, served with Anaheim chile ranchera and more of that black bean. I found the lengua itself wonderfully tender, with a mild relish to it that was nicely paired with the softly spicy, softly sweet ranchero sauce.

Camarones [$2.75]
The shrimp taco, meanwhile, was also agreeable, the camarones arriving snappy and not overdone, with a tasty brine to 'em that made perfect sense against the onions, peppers, and chile crema.

Pescado

Pescado [$2.75]
Guisados' other seafood entrant was also on point, with the fish nicely showcased here alongside the cabbage, tomato, cilantro, and tangy crema. Definitely one of the lighter tacos here.

Chorizo Quesadilla
Armando then brought out his chorizo quesadilla, a secret off-menu item that's certainly worth inquiring about. It really was a great combo, with the spice and savor of the pork really melding well with the cheese here.

Cabbage-Wrapped Tinga [$2.75]
We concluded with another off-menu specialty: tacos served in cabbage instead of the standard tortilla (meant for people with corn allergies). Though the restaurant doesn't really promote these, this tinga version was actually very appealing, with the light, refreshing crunch of the veggie working effectively against the heft of the meat.

I'm not surprised that Guisados gave me one of the top taco experiences that I've had, especially with De La Torre, Jr as a gracious host. It's hard not to like the variety of satisfying stews and fillings here, tucked into the restaurant's trademark hearty, warm tortillas. Each of the nearly 20 types I had showed off their own unique charm and allure, offering me a respite from the usual conversation of asada and carnitas, and contributing greatly, thus, to LA's ever-increasing taco lexicon.

Asanebo Restaurant
11941 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, CA 91604
818.760.3348
www.asanebo-restaurant.com
Sat 12/14/2013, 07:25p-11:30p

[A Note on Photography: As some of you may know, I recently acquired a new camera, the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM1. I'm hoping to have it supplant my current DSLR setup (for the sake of convenience and inconspicuousness), and this meal was actually my first outing with it. I think it's a pretty promising start, especially given the somewhat uneven lighting here as well as my use of the slow kit lens. Low-light performance seems to be at least as good as my current setup, but one thing's that immediately apparent is that the increased depth of field (due to the Four Thirds sensor and smaller aperture) is throwing off some of the photos; I need to get my hands on a fast prime, pronto. More to come...]

Asanebo Exterior

Opened in 1991 by brothers and former Matsuhisa chefs Tetsuya and Shunji Nakao (who left the partnership in 2000), Asanebo ("late riser") has been a staple of sorts on the Japanese scene here in LA. I first visited the place way back in 2008, and while I felt that the food was good, it didn't strike me as the sort of joint with a Michelin star, or the top food rating on Zagat for that matter. However, goaded on by a regular customer of the place who insisted that the best way to dine here isn't omakase, I decided to give Asanebo another shot, nearly six years after my initial visit.

Asanebo's menu is scarily vast (especially when rendered in Papyrus font), with multiple omakase options ranging from $60 to $160 and a myriad of à la carte choices as well. It was a daunting proposition, so we all gleefully let the regular order for us. Click for larger versions.

To drink, you'll find a smattering of beer and wine, as well as a short sake list that somehow features a $960 bottle of the stuff. We opted to bring our own booze, at $15 corkage a pop. Click for larger versions.

Scallop Salad
We began with a salad featuring a singular hotategai, which itself was spot on: supple to the bite and sweet, with a great hit of char and just a touch of citrus-y zest. The various veggies worked effectively as well, forming a crunchy, bitter counter to the scallop, with everything then accented by the savory bits sprinkled on top.

Hot Style 'Chawan-Mushi' Egg Custard w/ Sea Urchin

Hot Style "Chawan-Mushi" Egg Custard w/ Sea Urchin
The chawanmushi was quite enjoyable, having Santa Barbara uni, spiny lobster, and white truffle folded in. It was certainly one of the most luxurious versions of the dish I've had, coming out all rich, buttery, and enrobed in truffle-y overtones, the urchin really accentuating the lushness of the egg while the ise ebi imparted a great snap to things.

Sea Bass Miso Soup [$6.00]
A miso soup with sea bass was exactly like you'd imagine, the hearty, satisfying, umami-rich savor of the soup enhanced by the ocean-y heft of the fish.

Zensai

Zensai
We were then brought a rather long plate of various little bites: Japanese gingko nuts with sea salt; wonderfully savory and crisp fried lotus roots (renkon); a sweet-sour-savory cherry tomato in vinegar; mozuku seaweed with vinegar sauce and ginger, a slick, cool, tangy treat; a not overly gooey cut of okra; smooth, delicate bluefin tuna with nuta sweet miso; pumpkin and eggplant; a lightly-charred, yuzu-tinged golden eye snapper with enoki, my favorite; and finally, baby zucchini.

Kumamoto Oyster on the Half Shell w/ Sea Urchin [$54.00]
Kumamoto oysters were presented with sea urchin, a winning combination to be sure, with a touch of citrus really doing a great job in offsetting the richness of the roe. Unfortunately, the experience was marred by a bit of errant shell.

Fresh Spiny Lobster w/ Fresh Truffle [$38.00]
Spiny lobster was snappy and sweet, yet beautifully heightened by the depth of its soy-based dressing. That alone would've been good enough, but the earthy musk of white truffle just added further potency to the mix.

Kan Buri (Wild Yellowtail) [$30.00]
Wild yellowtail sashimi was clean and lean, not overtly fatty like the farmed stuff. A classic example of the fish--great with a dab of soy.

Red Snapper Sashimi w/ Sea Salt & Japanese Citrus "Yuzu" [$24.00]
Tai came out snappy and delicate, deftly perked up with a sprinkle of tangy yuzu. Can't go wrong with this.

Asanebo Style Poke, Tuna [$12.00]
The poke was tasty too, the meaty chunks of tuna really playing well with the tart-tangy crunch of its accompanying veggies.

Halibut Sashimi w/ Japanese Citrus "Yuzu" Pepper [$20.00]
Halibut was one of my favs, the subtle taste of the fish expertly paired with the salty-sour-spicy kick of yuzukosho.

Kuruma Ebi (Tiger Shrimp) [$15.00]
Tiger shrimp was a treat, and really a fantastic example of cooked ebi. It showed off a beautiful texture, as well as an impressive interplay between sweet and saline flavors that really hit the spot.

Wild Aji (Spanish Mackerel) [$30.00]
Spanish mackerel conveyed the classic pairing of ginger and scallion, but with the addition of a savory-sweet ponzu jelly.

Fresh Raw Octopus [$24.00]
Octopus was a standout, with its delightfully chewy, yet supple consistency and mildly briny taste, amped up by a dollop of piquant umeboshi condiment.

Jumbo Clam [$36.00]
Geoduck, meanwhile, came out crunchy and tasting unapologetically of the sea, tempered by a squirt of citrus and the umami-ish relish of the nori.

Sawara (Japanese Ono) [$24.00]
Japanese ono was balanced and multifaceted, with the tangy ponzu and crunchy, savory garlic chips imparting a modicum of modernity to the sushi.

Japanese Beef 'Wagyu' Tender Tataki

Japanese Beef "Wagyu" Tender Tataki [$96.00]
A shoulder cut of Kagoshima wagyu was presented in tataki form, displaying a somewhat restrained beefiness, offset by a ginger-y tone in the dish. Tasty, but I wanted a more luxurious, overtly bovine eating experience with this one.

Japanese Beef 'Wagyu', 'Teppan' Style Steak

Japanese Beef "Wagyu", "Teppan" Style Steak [$18.00]
Now, speaking of that overt beefiness, the teppanyaki had it in droves, coming out just as rich, fatty, and buttery as you'd want, a true expression of wagyu. Superb rendition of mushrooms and asparagus here, too.

With the evening's pièce de résistance dispensed with, it was time for dessert. Click for larger versions.

Homemade Ice Cream
I rather liked Asanebo's quartet of ice cream. Starting clockwise from the bottom, we had the requisite black sesame, a fantastically true-to-life truffle, the delightfully tea-infused hojicha, and sweet potato.

Green Tea Flan [$4.50]
A trembling green tea flan was pleasant in its bittersweetness.

Creamy Coffee Gelato [$6.50]
Finally, we had an oddly-shaped cone of coffee gelato. I enjoyed its semi-intense, espresso-like taste, but found the consistency too icy. I would've liked it smoother, creamier.

I had a good time here, though the $250pp price tag was very surprising, especially considering that we didn't order alcohol (though we did pay for six bottles of corkage). I'm sure that the wagyu and truffle didn't help things either. Cost aside, this was an improvement over my last meal, and indeed, unlike at pretty much every other Japanese place, omakase may not be the way to go at Asanebo. I guess it all comes down to what your expectations are. I wouldn't come in here looking to get a Mori-like experience for example, but rather, think of the restaurant as a sort of higher-class izakaya. Just be careful what you order.

Willie Jane Restaurant
1031 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291
310.392.2425
www.williejane.com
Sun 12/15/2013, 05:20p-07:25p

[A Note on Photography: If you recall, I had my first outing with the new camera (a Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM1) at Asanebo recently. While that dinner turned out fairly promising, tonight wasn't nearly as successful unfortunately. The lighting here, at least where we were sitting, was woefully dim, and as a result, the limitations of the Panny's slow kit lens really began to show. I was shooting 1/10s exposures at ISO 3200, but the photos still came out underexposed (with low saturation and dynamic range) due to the len's small f3.5 aperture, which lets in only one-fourth the light of the 20mm f1.7 I just purchased. We'll see how that one fares in a future meal.]

The last time I dined Southern on AK was at Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga's much-lauded Wolf in Sheep's Clothing pop-up at Capri (the space that now houses Salt Air). If you recall, the two chefs eventually left Venice to launch The Hart and The Hunter, and their partner John Mascarenhas moved WiSC to the building left vacant by the thoroughly mediocre Lilly's French Cafe & Bar, bringing on board partner Brad Johnson from Post & Beam in the process. Kevin Kathman (who ran AK Supper Club, also at Capri) and Dustin Taylor were installed in the kitchen, but the restaurant was largely ill-received due to Mascarenhas' perceived commandeering of the Wolf in Sheep's Clothing name, and closed in March this year.

Given the debacle with WiSC, Johnson wisely retooled the concept, bringing in Post & Beam chef Govind Armstrong (as well as Director of Operations David Borrego) and opening Willie Jane, a Southern eatery named after Johnson's 100-year-old Georgian aunt. The placed bowed in April, and is ostensibly influenced by Armstrong's interpretation of Lowcountry cuisine, the cooking of the coastal areas of South Carolina and Georgia. Of note is the restaurant's use of produce from Geri Miller's Cook's Garden, a new organic, urban garden that debuted just this past June. The garden also happens to be located right next door to Willie Jane, and also counts The Tasting Kitchen, Joe's, Feed Body & Soul, and the brand-spankin-new Scopa Italian Roots among its clients.

Willie Jane Dining Room

The former WiSC space was revamped by set designer Rae Scarton to give it a more "Southern" feel, but the general layout remains unchanged. As seen above, we were seated in the patio dining area out back.

Willie Jane highlights Armstrong's take on American Southern cookery, though I have to point out that Sundays feature an abbreviated version of the menu. To imbibe, you'll find a small, value-priced wine list, and a promising selection of cocktails. Click for larger versions.

Coal Miner's Daughter [$12.00] | Bourbon, Macerated Ginger, Lavender Honey, Lemon Juice
Garden [$10.00] | Citron Geranium Vodka, Fennel Dill Gin, Lime, Lillet
We got started with a classic Southern cocktail in the form of the Coal Miner's Daughter. I quite liked it, finding the combination of smoky, boozy, and ginger-y flavors a great fit with the slight floral overtones from the lavender. The Garden was also a winner, reaching a great balance between the gin and vodka in a refreshing, herbaceous package.

Buttermilk Biscuit with Burnt Orange Honey Butter [$2.00/each]
One thing that the team here has certainly cribbed from Wolf in Sheep's Clothing is their ability to make a damn good biscuit. The specimens here were certainly among the best, and biggest, I've encountered: wonderfully crisp on the outside, fluffy and soft on the inside, and flaky enough that they nearly fall apart at the touch. The butter here was superb as well, coming out sweet and lush, with the burnt citrus notes forming a great pairing to the bread.

Deviled Eggs, Smoked Shrimp, Black Radish & Trout Roe [$6.00]
Being the egg slut that I am, these beauties were of course a must-order. They were surely some of the tastiest I've had, with a smoky, hammy, salty savor to them that melded gorgeously with the richness of the egg and the bursts of brightness from the radish.

Mussels with Berbere Spiced Squash, Charred Leek, Bloomsdale Spinach & Meyer Lemon Confit [$13.00]
Mussels were also enjoyable, plump yet squishy, their ocean-y flavors tempered by the astringent smack of spinach and leek. I also enjoyed the heady, aromatic broth that remained (I should've sopped it up with my biscuit), but the squash seemed overly sweet, and really didn't add much to the dish.

Shrimp and Grits, Roasted Peppers and House Smoked Salt Pork [$19.00]
Of course, we had to try this Low Country staple, done up here with an intriguing spice to it that really perked up the still-snappy shrimp. I was a fan of the salty pork here as well and how that intensified the dish, while the grits were comforting in their own way.

Tart

Tart [$10.00] | Bourbon, Lemon, Peychauds, Cio Ciaro, Maple Demerara Syrup, Absinthe
Bramble [$12.00] | Blackberries, Bourbon, Lime, Heering, Garden Lemon Verbena
More cocktails. The Tart was as its name would imply, but also bittersweet and boozy, with just enough sweetness to balance things out. The Bramble, on the other hand, was the sugariest drink of the bunch, but still eminently balanced, with the citrus and verbena really rounding out the fruitiness; this one seemed somehow particularly apropos given the food.

Grilled Prime Hanger Steak, Fingerlings, Baby Carrots and Lemon Grass Chimichurri Butter [$24.00]
Onglet was classically prepared, a smoky, unabashedly beefy cut of steer that was neither particularly fatty nor tender (which is what you'd expect). It was good, though not really luxurious eatin', with the butter adding richness and complexity to the meat, while the greens and hearty potatoes really completed the plate.

Black-Eyed Peas, Simmered Ham Hock and CG Kale [$6.00]
Peas were hearty and subtle, perhaps slightly nutty, yet firm to the bite, with the ham adding a hit of salt to the side.

Spice

Spice [$10.00] | Rum, Green Chartreuse, Chai, Lime, Egg White, Nutmeg
Salt [$10.00] | Tequila, Hibiscus, Mezcal, Averna, Lime
Our last set of cocktails began with the Spice, one of my favorites due to its tart, boozy base paired with fantastic nuances of sweet, aromatic spice; I loved the frothiness from the egg white, too. The Salt, lastly, was a good one as well, the tequila-mezcal combo really coming together nicely, the smokiness of the latter really well-integrated with the floral tinge of hibiscus.

Fried Mary's Chicken [$18.00]
I have a hard time not ordering the fried chicken on a menu, so here we are. I found it a commendable preparation, the bird arriving wonderfully crisp, hot, and teeming with juice, the skin imbued with an undercurrent of spice complexity. Definitely worth a try.

Mac n' Cheese, Herbed Bread Crumbs [$7.00]
The mac and cheese was a worthy effort, an unabashedly salty, cheesy presentation that was nicely set off by the crunchy bits on top.

We were all quite stuffed by this point, but Willie Jane's dessert menu was certainly worth a look. Click for a larger version.

Crispy, Chewy, Golden Raisin Oatmeal Cookie Sandwich, Mascarpone Filling [$8.00]
I'm a sucker for oatmeal raisin cookies, and the examples here were spot on: chewy, sweet, and buttery. The mascarpone did a nice job as a filling, though I kept thinking about how ice cream would perhaps be an even better intermediary.

Willie Jane doesn't seem to get much love around here, and I'm not exactly sure why not. The food isn't flawless, but Armstrong's cooking here is arguably just as tasteful as what he's doing over at Post & Beam, sort of a Cal-Southern mash-up inspired by Lowcountry cookery. The cocktails are worthwhile, and it's the only Southern joint in the area, so in my eyes the restaurant's a fine addition to the line-up here on AK. You could certainly do worse.

Taco María Restaurant
3313 Hyland Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714.538.8444
www.tacomaria.com
Fri 12/27/2013, 06:40p-09:15p

[A Note on Photography: This was my third outing with the new camera, and my first with a proper lens, a 20mm f1.7 prime. The photos tonight were shot with an exposure of 1/20s + f2.0 @ ISO 3200 and were much more promising, and I'm hoping that my results will improve even further once I get a better handle on both the camera as well as how to optimally post-process.]

The first thing you need to know about the ironically-named Taco Maria is that it's not a taquería. Sure, the taco may make an appearance once in a while, but the cooking here is squarely focused on modern Mexican, the so-called "Chicano Cuisine" of Chef Carlos Salgado that blends mexicano and americano culinary traditions. Named after the long line of mujeres in his family, the restaurant debuted recently at The OC Mix at SoCo Collection, a somewhat hipster-ish (for OC) shopping plaza bordering the 405 that also houses Portola Coffee, ARC, and Shuck Oyster Bar.

About the Chef: Salgado was raised in the city of Orange in a family that operated a series of Mexican restaurants in the area, though he never worked in any of them except during his summers off. He attended Villa Park High School (where Roy Choi went, incidentally), and found himself in a career in tech/video games/Web development, working at a few start-ups and small companies in the Irvine area. However, Salgado decided to leave the field in 2002, and later moved up to San Francisco to start his culinary career. His first real job in the biz came in 2004, when he took a position under Pastry Chef Boris Portnoy at Vernon Morales' Winterland. After six months, he took over Portnoy's role, but didn't stay at the restaurant too long.

Salgado enrolled at the California Culinary Academy, graduating in 2006. Following, he joined the ranks at Daniel Patterson's Michelin two-star Coi, working under Jake Godby and eventually making his way around the various stations in the kitchen. He would wind up taking over for Godby, and even implemented a baking program at the restaurant. After three years at Coi, he moved on in June 2009, teaming with James Syhabout to open Commis in Oakland. Commis was well received (even gaining a Michelin star), but Salgado left in May 2011, replaced by Kyle Caporicci (Campton Place, Coi).

He ended up moving back home to Orange County with the idea of reinventing his family's 25-year-old restaurant, La Siesta, after his parents started thinking of selling it. Salgado partnered with his sister Silvia and launched the Taco Marialonchera in 2011, which was originally meant to be an extension of La Siesta and part of their catering operation, but the haute food truck became a smashing success in its own right. However, a truck was never the end goal. A permanent location was, and so Taco Maria, the truck, ceased operation in April 2013. The siblings then put their collective efforts into debuting a brick-and-mortar place, the result of which is Taco Maria, the restaurant, which bowed in late August, inspired by the progressive chefs of Mexico and their alta cocina movement. Joining Salgado here is Roland Rubalcava of the former Rubalcava's Market and Bakery in Placentia, who's doing the tortillas.

Taco Maria Interior

Taco Maria has an indoor-outdoor setup, and the inside space is on the small side, featuring three tables seating eight, as well as an eight-seater chef's counter facing the open kitchen and its wood-fired grill. Much more space is available on the patio.

As for Taco Maria's menu, the thing to get is the four-course prix fixe at $46, plus $24 for wine pairing, while an à la carte lunch is available as well. If you opt out of the pairing, you'll find a smattering of beers (including michelada) and a small wine list, with corkage priced at $40/$20 (first/subsequent bottles, waived for each bottle purchased). Click for larger versions.

We began with a welcome cocktail, a citrus-Prosecco sangria basically. It was as refreshing as you'd imagine, a burst of tart, citrus-y tastes with a pleasantly boozy undercurrent from the sparkling wine.

Sunchoke Chips, Chorizo Aioli

Our amuse bouche comprised sunchoke chips and a chorizo aioli. The chips themselves were delightfully savory and crisp, sort of like papas fritas, but "stickier" and a touch sweeter. They were delectable alone, but the piquant dip, imbued with just the slightest hint of chorizo heat, really completed the dish.

1a: BETABELES | beet, avocado, fromage blanc, pistachio, pea tendrils
2012 Caballero de Castilla Verdejo Castilla La Mancha Spain
The first proper course was what amounted to one of the best beet salads I've had. The sweetness of the offending ingredient was apparent sure, but not in my face, and worked flawlessly with its various accompaniments: the tart citrus, lush cheese, bitter greens, and nutty, crunchy, salty pistachios--everything had its place, making for an eminently balanced dish.

1b: AGUACHILE | local rockfish crudo, serrano, guava, Ensenada olive oil
2007 Peregrine Riesling Central Otago New Zealand
Salgado's take on aguachile was quite something. The broth had a real fire to it--a blast of sour, spicy goodness that lingered on and on, a strident counterpoint to that silky fish, impeccably dotted (via tweezers I'm sure) with micro herbs and micro radish. Olive oil, meanwhile, brought it all together, but the most interesting element here was clearly that island of guava, which was simultaneously disconcerting yet somehow crucial to the dish.

2a: 'CAESAR' | pacific sardine, celtuce, egg yolk, parmigiano, sourdough
2012 Ca d'Maria Langhe Arneis Langhe Italy
Next was no doubt one of the best renditions of Caesar salad I've tasted. The hero here was that sardine, its wonderfully fishy notes recalling a fine Japanese saba. The brine really permeated the dish, pulling in the runny egg, crispy croutons, salty cheese, and juicy celtuce and making for a cohesive whole. Of all the courses we had, this was the one that seemed to most recall the culinary sensibilities of Commis.

2b: TAMAL de CALABAZA | winter squash, queso fresco, lime blossom honey, pipian verde
2008 Gustave Lorenz Pinot Gris Réserve d'Alsace France
Salgado's tamal was true to form, really showing off the inherent goodness of masa dough. The use of winter squash steered the dish overly sweet and floral for me, but I could see where he was going with it. I really enjoyed that pipián verde though, which helped tame the sugary notes present.

At this point, our server brought out the Chef's homemade salsa negra, which is composed of dried chile de árbol, black garlic, cumin, and oil. It's got a good amount of heat to it, but it's a tangy, smoky, creeping spice that sticks with you. This stuff was seriously addictive, and you sort of want to put it on everything, which Salgado doesn't necessarily discourage.

3a: JARDINERO | shiitake, stinging nettles, shishito peppers, queso Oaxaca
2011 Juana del Sol Malbec Mendoza Argentina
One of the highlights of the meal was certainly the mushrooms. The potent, umami-laced essence of those shiitakes was just so forcefully displayed here, bound by the astringency of the nettles while the cheese just added a fantastic richness to the mix. A hearty, heavy course, but utterly satisfying, and arguably even better with a sprinkle of "black sauce."

3b: POZOLE de MOLUSCOS | shellfish, heirloom hominy, brassicas, lime
2011 Paco & Lola Albariño Rias Baixas Spain
The pozole was another winner for me. I loved the hominy here, its texture and earthy savor really grounding the course, a base on which the salinity of the shellfish could really sing against a backdrop of bitter brassicas. The whisper of lime tartness was much appreciated as well, and again, this was another candidate for the application of that salsa negra.

4a: ARROZ con POLLO | Jidori chicken, toasted farro, pear, fennel
2011 Eola Hills Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Oregon
Here we had what amounted to the schmanciest arroz con pollo I've had, but also the best. The bird itself was pretty fantastic, all juicy and tender and full of flavor, with a wonderfully crisp bit of skin to boot. The use of farro, though, was what set the dish apart, imparting a satisfying bite and nuttiness to the fray. And if that wasn't enough, you had those slivers of pear giving up the perfect amount of juicy, offsetting brightness. Another favorite of mine.

CACHETE

4b: CACHETE | pork confit, cattle beans, persimmon, chrysanthemum
2012 Cachette Grenache Noir Gard France
We ended with some of the tenderest pork cheek around, a bounty of deep, dark, piggy flavors that was reined in by the copious amounts of citrus here. I quite enjoyed the beans as well, which did a great job mixing things up texturally while really moderating the course.

michelada [$8.00] | Victoria lime chile
With our wines dispensed with, we requested a couple more bebidas, starting with the Michelada, a spicy, sour, salty concoction that ended up being one of the better versions I've had.

primer beso [$8.00] | Vya Dry Vermouth meyer lemon soda
The Primer Beso, on the other hand, was pretty much the polar opposite of the michelada, coming out light and refreshing, with juicy overtones of lemon enveloping the drink.

I'd heard that the kitchen here turns out a pretty mean quesadilla (an off-menu item originally meant for kids), so naturally I had to ask for one. Turns out it might've been the strongest example of the staple I've had. It was just the tortilla and cheese and nothing else, but that simplicity was absolutely key, the two components in total harmony (though a dash of that salsa negra didn't hurt either!).

One of the ironies here is that Taco Maria doesn't serve a real dessert, despite Salgado's considerable training in the craft (though I hear they're looking for a proper pastry chef). Instead, we were given pecan polvorones (a.k.a. "wedding cookies"), basically some lovely shortbread bites spiced with what I believe was cinnamon.

So as it turns out, one of my most promising meals of year has come at the very end of 2013. Salgado's cooking is both comforting, familiar even, yet simultaneously exciting, modern, with a lot of potential; it gives us a taste of the alta cocina that we've been lacking all this time. I really applaud what the Chef's doing, opening up such a place in a somewhat difficult environment, being OC and all that. I'm hoping that he can keeping pushing here, turning out longer, more complex menus that could rival something you might expect to find in the D.F. This is one to watch.

Bar Nozawa at Sugarfish
212 North Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.276.6900
www.nozawabar.com
Mon 11/04/2013, 07:30p-10:00p

One of the more notable Japanese debuts of 2013 was Nozawa Bar, a 10-seat, reservations-required, omakase-only counter situated in the back room of Sugarfish Beverly Hills; the Chef is Osamu Fujita, a longtime friend of Kazunori Nozawa's. From my first visit there, it was clear that the place was, from the get-go, one of the top sushi specialists around. I did, however, recommend a few areas for improvement regarding the saucing, selection, and speed of the sushi. The restaurant has taken those suggestions to heart, and requested that I revisit the Bar to experience the modifications that'd been made.

Perhaps the most significant change has been in regard to the pacing of the meal. The number of seatings has been reduced from two to only one (at 7:30), except for Saturdays, which allows for more flexibility, a more relaxed stride, and the ability to linger. In addition, lunch has been removed, in order to let the kitchen focus on dinner service. Also key is a wider selection of neta (items such as suzuki and isebi that I wouldn't have expected to see here), as well as larger day-to-day variation of ingredients, thus making for better replay value. The meal is also slightly longer, and now allows for à la carte ordering following the completion of the set menu. Finally, Fuji-san is pre-saucing more of the nigiri, which should result in cleaner eating and less falling-apart of the notoriously warm, loose rice.

The Nozawa Bar menu now comes in printed form, replete with Fujita-san's signature, and is presented before the meal. This lets diners know what's coming up, so that persons with smaller appetites can choose to skip certain courses and "save" their capacity. The price, meanwhile, remains at $150 (plus mandatory service and tax), which is good to see given the enhancements that've been made. Meanwhile, the drink menu, unfortunately, hasn't changed or been expanded (mostly due to space limitations), and corkage isn't being offered yet either (though it's under consideration I hear). Click for larger versions.

Now, speaking of beverages, I opted for a bottle of wine this evening, specifically the Pascal Jolivet 'Chene Marchand' Sancerre 2011, Loire Valley France [$100]. It was lovely, and a fitting accompaniment to the food. Think light, refreshing, yet substantial, a dry, minerally, aromatic Sauv Blanc with a bevy of grassy, citric nuances and a bright burst of acidity.

1: Japanese Jellyfish
We got underway with slippery shards of translucent Japanese jellyfish. This one was all about the kurage's slick, crunchy texture, while its mild relish was tarted up accordingly by the accompanying ponzu-based sauce.

2: Sumi Ika Somen with Santa Barbara Uni sauce / New Jersey Bigeye Toro / Japanese Wakame
Next was a trio of small bites. The squid noodles were firm and snappy, with a delicate brine to them that went beautifully with the sweet, creamy urchin, all while the strips of nori sprinkled on top imparted an umami-laced tinge to the dish. The wakame, meanwhile, served as a bit of a palate cleanser before the toro, which arrived creamy and lush, with a great hit of heat from the wasabi.

3: New Jersey Bigeye Tuna nigiri
Kicking things off for the nigiri was a back cut from the bigeye above, a balanced, prototypical representation of the fish that paired swimmingly with the Chef's signature warm rice.

4: Japanese Suzuki (Sea Bass) nigiri
Seeing suzuki was a nice surprise, since it's not a fish that typically occured in Nozawa's repertoire. I found a very pleasing, tangy sweetness here to go against the slight astringency of the negi.

5: Japanese Sumi Ika (squid) nigiri
Squid was sticky and creamy, with a firm, yet yielding bite to it and a mild salinity highlighted by the zip of the shiso leaf slipped inside.

6: Santa Barbara Uni nigiri
Uni was superb, a perfect incarnation of Santa Barbara urchin that showed off the roe's trademark blend of creamy sweetness and salt, tempered by the savory richness of the accompanying seaweed.

7: Hokkaido Scallop nigiri
The scallop was also a favorite of mine, with its firm, yet luscious consistency and subtle brine, offset by just a prick of yuzu.

8: Japanese Kanpachi (Amberjack) nigiri
Amberjack, meanwhile, conveyed a great sweetness that melded well with the ocean-y nuances present, all while the rice was particularly apparent on the finish.

9: Japanese Katsuo (Skipjack) Tuna nigiri
Skipjack showed off a beautiful ruby tone, its delicate flavors accented by the combination of scallion and a touch of tart ponzu.

10: Yamaimo Ume Shiso Handroll
Our first hand roll brought together mountain yam, sour plum, and shiso. The star here was clearly that yamaimo and its crisp, almost jicama-like, yet mucilaginous texture. Taste-wise, it was very subtle though, so the combination of tangy ume and bright shiso were key, with the crunchy sheet of nori really grounding the dish.

11: Kusshi Oysters
Firm, meaty Kusshis from Vancouver are some of my favorite oysters, and here they were put to good use, their cool, sweet salinity working hand-in-hand with the piquant qualities of the ponzu and scallion. Classic, but always effective flavors.

12: Ankimo (Monkfish Liver)
A scoop of monkfish liver (which could've easily been mistaken for ice cream!) showed off the earthy richness that you'd expect, but it was nuanced at the same time, and actually paired well with the miso sauce, which fortunately wasn't as sweet as it was during my first visit.

13: Boston Sawara (Sierra) nigiri
Spanish mackerel was tasty, giving us a very refined, yet still apparent fishiness that went gorgeously with the tart sauce drizzled on top. One of my favorites.

14: Japanese Aji (Spanish Mackerel) nigiri
Next was the "Spanish mackerel" (really horse mackerel), firmer in bite, which conveyed a much more intense brine that worked completely with the included ginger and scallion. A classic combo that always seems to satisfy.

15: New Zealand Tai Snapper nigiri
Snapper from New Zealand was clean and fresh on the palate, its subtle qualities complemented by the bright flavors of the paired shiso.

16: Oregon Albacore nigiri
Albacore was a favorite as well, and arguably the strongest sushi presentation of the fish I've had. The cut was taken from the belly I believe, which made for a perfectly balanced, integrated bite that meshed flawlessly with the bit of scallion up top.

17: Maine Lobster nigiri
Lobster was a pleasant surprise, a delightfully crunchy presentation of the crustacean that matched its inherent sweetness with the sour smack of what I believe was yuzu.

18: Blue Crab Handroll
Nozawa's probably the one that popularized the ubiquitous blue crab handroll back in the day, and it didn't disappoint tonight either, with the cool, sweet, saline crab faultlessly presented with the rice and nori.

19: Japanese Anago (sea eel) nigiri
Sea eel often underwhelms, but this was definitely one of the better ones I've had, a sweet, hot, hearty, and utterly satisfying piece of nigiri that made me want seconds.

20: Tamago (Apricot Lane eggs) nigiri
Tamago made with Apricot Lane Farms eggs once again made for one of the more interesting preparations of the dish that I've seen, with the sweet 'n' sour nature of the ume countering the savory qualities of the omelet.

21: New Jersey Bigeye Toro nigiri
At this point, the parade of the sushi was over, and we were invited to order anything else that we'd like. I was actually fairly full, so only the toro was necessary, which I found as smooth and creamy as the sashimi version above, but with the added benefit of the rice, which balanced out the bite a bit.

22: Hojicha tea (roasted green tea)
Green tea was hot and heartwarming, with a bitter, roasty character to it.

23: Mango Sorbet & Farmers market berries
The mango sorbet came out sweet and satisfying, really capturing the essence of the fruit while playing foil to the tart, juicy berries.

My last meal at Nozawa Bar was already a good one, and with the multitude of changes that've been implemented, the experience here has definitely improved. The more varied menu and slower pace were much appreciated (as was the spot-on service, coordinated by Courtney Imada), and the ingredients were certainly as pure and pristine as ever, making for the best possible interpretation of Nozawa's style of sushi. Like I said before, this is what I'd always wanted the original restaurant to be like, a fitting flagship for the Sugarfish empire.

Alma Restaurant
952 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.444.0984
www.alma-la.com
Sat 12/28/2013, 08:20p-10:45p

[A Note on Photography: The photos in this report were shot with the new camera and reflect my first real foray into the world of HDR. I used a base exposure of 1/20s + f2.0 @ ISO1600 and bracketed ±1EV, then post-processed in Photomatix Essentials. I'm pretty pleased with the results.]

Alma Exterior

Much has happened to Ari Taymor and his team since my last visit to Alma back in December 2012. LA Magazine named the place one of the Top 10 Best New Restaurants of the year, and in February, it finally received its long-awaited beer and wine license. This was followed up by a three-star review from LA Weekly and a partnership with Venice gardener Courtney Guerra (ex-Meadowood) to supply the restaurant with locally-grown produce (and yes, they're still working on that rooftop garden).

On the personnel front, Chef de Cuisine Brian Maynard (Melisse) replaced Danny Romo, former Beverage Director Chris Yamashiro parted ways, and there's still no pastry chef. Ashleigh Parsons, however, is still running the FOH, as well as heading up the successful Community Outreach Program. The biggest news of the year, though, was Alma's securing of the #1 spot on Bon Appétit's 10 Best New Restaurants list in August. This was the win that made the restaurant part of the national culinary conversation, and one of the most sought after reservations in Los Angeles. Taymor and company have finally arrived; now what?

Well, for starters, Alma switched to a prix fixe-only menu format at the end of November, a move that I'd been wanting to see for a while. Diners are presented with a choice between a five-courser at $65 and a longer, roughly nine-course tasting menu at $110, plus $55 for beverage pairing. Also to drink, you'll now find a compact wine list focused on organic/biodynamic selections, two beers (I'd really like to see more), and one cider. Corkage, meanwhile, is $30, with a limit of two bottles. Click for larger versions.

smoked sturgeon, parsnip & caviar

Instead of amuse bouches, you get "snacks" at Alma, the first of which brought us smoked sturgeon with parsnip pureé, parsnip chip, and caviar. They were tasty little bites, the sweetness of the root veggie playing off of the smoky, salty fish while the parsnip crisp added a nice textural jolt. A promising start.

english muffin with uni, caviar & burrata

english muffin with uni, caviar & burrata

Even better were the English muffins with burrata, uni, caviar, and dill. Think a bevy of lush, creamy, salty flavors, all perfectly harmonized and accented by a touch of anise while the muffin gave up a familiar, home-y sort of sensation that made us think of Thomas'. Excellent--I could've used several more of these.

seaweed & tofu beignet, yuzu kosho, lime

seaweed & tofu beignet, yuzu kosho, lime

Here we come to Taymor's signature starter: seaweed-tofu beignets with yuzukosho-lime. The fritters were a lovely blend of savory, sweet, and salty, loaded with a touch of brine toward the finish and a great pair to the tartness of the accompanying condiment. I've had these a couple times prior, but this time around they just seemed more inspired, more exacting than before, much like the rest of the food.

I ordered one of the two beers available, the Slaapmutske, Organic Tripel, Belgium [$10]. This one went surprisingly fruity on the nose, and that sensation continued on to the tongue, joined by a pleasant yeastiness and quite a bit of malty caramel. Still pretty crisp though, with a bit of underlying booziness.

1: ember roasted chicken consommé, trout roe & shallot
Chardonnay, Domaine de Roally, Viré-Clessé, Burgundy, '11
Our first proper course represented quite possibly the cleverest use of chicken skin I've seen, its unbridled saltiness becoming clearer and clearer the more you processed it on the palate, stealing attention away from the combo of consommé and roe while the shallot moderated the entire interaction.

2: broken beets & apple with hazelnut & malt
Zweigelt, Radoar, Loach, Alto Adige, Italy, '11
Hot on the heels of another strong beet course I'd had the previous night at Taco Maria was this beauty. Again, the key was how the sugariness of the beet was balanced, this time by the presence of malted crème fraîche, while the brown butter hazelnuts imparted a nutty, caramel-y crunch to things. I quite enjoyed this with the Zweigelt too, as it tended to temper the strong melon-y notes in the wine.

3: warm salad of chicory, crab & grapefruit with smoky breadcrumbs
Sauvignon Blanc, Gerard Boulay, á Chavignol, Sancerre, '12
Again, another very thoughtful, structured course. There was sort of a lot going on, but I appreciated how the crab was always the hero, caught between contrasting forces of earthy breadcrumbs and tart, tangy citrus and Hollandaise. Great wine pairing here too, with the accompany Sauv Blanc conveying an almost shellfish-esque nose but also a surprising amount of fruit when tasted.

beer & rye bread

I was a bit blown away by Taymor's homemade bread during my last visit, and he continued to impress with this beer-rye specimen, a nutty, smoky bread that went gorgeously with the dollop of slick cultured butter to its side.

4: frozen duck liver with smoked maple, carrot & coffee granola
Malvazija, Cotar, Slovenia, '07
Next was undoubtedly one of the best preparations of duck liver (foie gras?) I've tasted. The key was how the liver was frozen with liquid nitrogen, thus appearing crunchy and subtle at first, but growing in intensity as it melted, its offal-y goodness commingling with the bitter, nutty granola and licorice-tinged fennel in flawless fashion. Definitely some wow factor on this one.

5: slow cooked egg yolk with sunchoke, date & amaranth
White Blend Nr. 1, La Clarine Farm, CA, '12
A potage of sunchoke tasted of the season, its inherent sweetness melding with the lushness of the egg to form a hearty, comforting dish, though I would've liked to have seen more from the amaranth to offset the weight of the soup.

With the beer gone, we opted for a bottle of the Ribela, Sidra Natural, Spain [$16], a dry, tart, funky cider (just how I like it) that really hit the spot.

6: roasted sturgeon with potato, pine & cabbage
Altesse/Jacquère, Jean-Yves Péron, Côtillon des dames, Savoie, '11
The sturgeon was a winner, the fish roasted in cabbage and coming out firm and slightly rare, its salinity on vibrant display, yet evened out by the bright, bitter veggies and pine foam, all while the potato grounded the course. Very good when taken with the paired wine as well, which had a cider-like, almost oxidized quality to it.

7: pressed chicken with zinfandel, pear, turnip & celery root
Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) Trocken Kabinett, Koehler-Ruprecht, Germany, '06
Our last savory of the night brought us both light- and dark-meat chicken, pressed together and sous vide'd. The end result was a tender, moist bird, brimming with classic roast chicken flavor yet enrobed in the earthiness of Oregon black truffle, with the root vegetables offering up a bitter, crunchy contrast to the meat. A satisfying conclusion.

tomme with truffle & black honey

Fromage comprised slivers of Tomme, accompanied by truffle and black honey, an effective, yet lighthearted combination that really showed off the interplay between sweet and salty over a base of the cheese.

8: frozen carrot & chamomile milk tea
An intermezzo. Frozen carrot tasted remarkably true-to-life, like a concentrated blast of carrot-y sweetness that was somewhat jarring alone, but wisely softened by the floral qualities of the chamomile.

9: toasted oat & apple with cultured cream & thyme
Aleatico, NV Rappu, Domaine de Gioielli, Corsica
Now, dessert proper. The toasted oat ice cream was superb, conveying an almost cereal-like character to it that I found a surprisingly potent pairing with the fruity, spicy notes on the plate. Very smart, and quite apropos for the holiday season I'd say.

apple pâte de fruit with hazelnut sugar

Last up were apple pâtes de fruits with hazelnut sugar, which I found surprisingly nutty, the fruit unexpectedly subdued.

What a long way Alma has come. Even from the first pop-up, where we were the only two customers in the place (and there were only two people in the kitchen--now the Chef commands no less than six), I saw something in Taymor that I couldn't quite put my finger on, but I figured that he was one to watch. That was nearly two years ago, and the success he's achieved thus far has probably gone beyond what anyone had imagined, but I gather that the best is yet to come. The cooking here has progressed nicely since my last visit, with the food becoming more nuanced, more multifaceted, with more ambitious flavor profiles and a more progressive edge to it. I'm genuinely excited to see where Taymor takes the restaurant; keep an eye out for sure.

Little Sister Restaurant
1131 Manhattan Ave, Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
310.545.2096
www.littlesistermb.com
Mon 12/30/2013, 07:00p-09:55p

Little Sister Exterior

The launch of David LeFevre's MB Post back in 2011 helped usher in a renewed interest in the Manhattan Beach dining scene, and one of the newest entrants comes in the form of Little Sister, set in the former address of Hamptons and Sun & Moon Cafe. The name makes sense in the context of its "sister" restaurant-slash-brewery Abigaile in Hermosa Beach, a massive, globally-influenced gastropub run by the same partners: Chef Tin Vuong and Jed Sanford. The food here, though, is billed as a sort of pan-Southeast Asian affair, thus more closely reflecting the Chef's heritage.

About the Chef: Chef Vuong traces his roots back to China, but his grandparents had to flee the country when the Communist party seized power, settling in Vietnam. However, the family was forced to relocate once again following the fall of Saigon in 1975, becoming "boat people," first landing in Malaysia, which led to Hawaii, and eventually California's San Gabriel Valley, where Vuong was born in 1980. He grew up in Monterey Park, his mother working as an orthodontist and his father making deals in real estate. The family rarely cooked at home though, preferring to enjoy all culinary delights that the SGV had to offer (and still continues to offer). To please his parents (being a good Asian boy and all), Vuong attended UCLA and attained a degree in economics.

However, upon graduation, he and two friends decided to enroll in culinary school on a whim, and soon found themselves at the California Academy of Culinary Arts in Pasadena. Vuong excelled there, finding cooking a natural fit, and after finishing, took a job at the St. Regis in Monarch Beach, which had opened in July 2001. He quickly made his way up the ranks, eventually reaching the position of Executive Sous Chef after five years. At this point, he transition to Azmin Ghahreman's Sapphire in Laguna Beach, becoming Director of Culinary Operations for the restaurant and all its related business. Vuong then teamed up with friend and fellow Sapphire alum Justin Young (now Little Sister's GM) and Michael Segerstrom (Little Sister's CdC), and the trio started a series of high-end private dinners in the area.

Vuong's next move brought him together with Sanford, who had shuttered his successful Union Cattle Company in Hermosa and replaced it with the considerably more ambitious Abigaile. He replaced opening chef Max DiMare in March 2012, who left after only a month and a half and moved back to San Francisco. Nevertheless, Abigaile was a hit, and the success of that restaurant led the duo to debut Wildcraft Sourdough Pizza in Culver City in February 2013, taking over the old Le Saint Amour spot. Vuong, however, wanted a smaller place, one where he could do the kind of food he really wanted to cook, the kind of food that was close to his heart. Little Sister is that restaurant, and debuted in July to considerable fanfare.

The menu at Little Sister is fairly extensive, extending across multiple categories and spanning the culinary traditions of a wide swath of Southeast Asia (with some of the dishes sounding like they could've come straight from the dearly departed Spice Table), and I'm told that the Chef even incorporates ingredients from his own garden. Click for a larger version.

To drink, you won't find cocktails unfortunately, but there is a small but craft-y beer selection (mostly on draught and featuring a number of brews from Abigaile), a pretty good Cali-centric wine list (Vuong has some training as a sommelier), as well as a smattering of sakes (which doesn't seem to make sense given the intensity of the food). Click for larger versions.

ma la beef tartare, pear, pine nuts, quail egg, bone marrow vin [$12.00]
We had to try the tartar naturally, and I was quite pleased, finding it a really smart update on the classic, with the sweet, tangy elements and creeping spice working hand-in-hand with the beef, all while the nuts added a great crunch to the dish. I was a fan of the salty, crunchy cassava chips as well, though it would've been nice if the mala numbingness were more apparent.

balinese style fried meat balls, banana ketchup [$11.00]
I have a hard time resisting balled meat, so these were a must-order as well. They really were tasty though, just crunchy enough on the outside, yet moist and tender on the inside, hearty and just brimming with a multifaceted spice. The banana condiment was on the sweet-side, yet somehow played near-perfectly with the meatballs, while I appreciated the crunch of those peanuts as well.

grilled pork spring roll "nem nuong", red leaf lettuce, mint, carrot, cucumber, house sauce [$10.00]
Now, if we're talking about nem nuong spring rolls, nothing really beats those at Brodard, but these came closer than I expected. You had most of the right components in the goi cuon (minus the crispy strip though), but the cohesiveness of it all wasn't quite there, and of course, the sauces, while commendable, didn't reach the lofty levels of Brodard's. That being said, I still enjoyed the rolls a lot, and they're certainly worth a try.

grilled prawns, green papaya, mango, cucumber, onion, cashews, lemongrass-cilantro dressing [$18.00]
Vuong's take on the popular papaya salad seems to be a popular dish at the restaurant. It's not hard to see why, with the charred shrimp working well alongside the crisp, refreshing fruit and veggies, while the whole assemblage was underscored by a growing heat and slight minty character. I would've liked a stronger, more assertive dressing to tie it all together though.

red-braised pork belly, crispy shiitake, leek fondue [$13.00]
Red-cooked pork belly was a surprise standout, the meat coming out delightfully crisp and full of flavor, with a lovely ratio of lean and fat that I found very satisfying. The use of leek, meanwhile, served to temper the strong flavors at play, and I much appreciated the bitterness of the greens here as well.

vietnamese crepe, 'banh xeo', pork belly, prawns, bean sprout, herbs n' greens, house dressing [$14.00]
I'm generally not a fan of banh xeo, finding the coconut milk that most of 'em have overly sweet. That sweetness, though, was fortunately subdued here, making this one of the best versions I've had, with the prawns and pork really getting a chance to shine along with the crisp, crunchy sprouts. Wrapped in greens and dipped in the accompanying fish sauce, the combination really worked.

bhutanese red rice, dungeness crab, lamb bacon, fried egg [$17.00]
The red rice reminded me of a similar dish I'd had not too long ago over at Lukshon. The rice itself displayed a really satisfying crispness, chew, and "stickiness" to it that paired well with the salty chunks of lamb tossed in. Also key were the lush bits of egg, not to mention the moderating influence of the greenery present.

saigon lemongrass beef, vermicelli noodle, herbs, cucumbers, chili-lime dressing [$21.00]
Our final savory was a rather large bowl of Vietnamese-style bun thit nuong bo, a worthwhile interpretation of the classic dish. I enjoyed the beef, finding it tender, flavorful, and a fitting foil to the lightness of the noodles and veggies, all while the sweet-sour-spicy nuoc cham-based dressing brought it all together.

Little Sister lacks a traditional dessert menu. Instead, you get a choice of mini desserts at three for $10, or scoops of ice cream at three for $8. There's also the option of a cheese course, which seems out of place given the food here. Click for a larger version.

earl grey-chocolate chip / malt / fig-almond [$8.00]
Ice cream, unfortunately, isn't house-made, but rather sourced from Pazzo Gelato. Three varieties were offered, and all three were delicious in their own right, with the earl grey being particularly fetching with its great interplay of floral and citrus flavors. Yum.

white chocolate tangerine mousse bar / french macaron of the moment / pumpkin spice mascarpone cake [$10.00]
The dessert trio we chose comprised the mousse bar with its effective blend of chocolate-citrus flavors, a properly autumnal pumpkin spice cake, and two types of macarons: a classic chocolate-hazelnut and a particularly true-to-life blueberry.

You always run a certain risk when doing this type of food in this type of location for this type of crowd, but I think Vuong's done a commendable job translating the cooking of his homeland here. You can argue that some of the finer points might've been lost in the process, but the essence of Southeast Asian cookery remains, plain to see in all its sour, spicy glory. The restaurant sort of represents a much-needed addition to the Manhattan Beach scene, which is exactly what I want to see, and judging by the crowds, I'm not the only one.

Zo (Los Angeles, CA)

Taberna Arros y Vi (Santa Monica, CA)

Orsa & Winston (Los Angeles, CA)

Makoto (Washington, DC)

Goldie's (Los Angeles, CA)

Daikaya (Washington, DC)

David Kinch at Rustic Canyon (Santa Monica, CA)

Q Sushi (Los Angeles, CA)

Hakkasan (Beverly Hills, CA)

Republique (Los Angeles, CA)

Sushi Ota (San Diego, CA)

LALovesPI (West Hollywood, CA)

Sushi Taro (Washington, DC)

Guisados (Los Angeles, CA)

Asanebo (Studio City, CA) [2]

Willie Jane (Los Angeles, CA)

Taco Maria (Costa Mesa, CA)

Nozawa Bar (Beverly Hills, CA) [2]

Alma (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

Little Sister (Manhattan Beach, CA)