Plate by Plate 2013 (Los Angeles, CA)

August 3, 2013, 6:00 pm

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Plate by Plate 2013
214 S Main St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
www.platebyplate.org/la/
Sat 08/03/2013, 06:00p-10:00p





This past Saturday, August 3rd, Project by Project hosted its 11th annual Plate by Plate tasting benefit at the beautiful Vibiana cathedral in the heart of Downtown. For the uninitiated, Project by Project is a nationwide non-profit focused on issues relating to the Asian-American community. Each year, the group chooses a particular theme to concentrate on--whether it be health, education, or the arts--and partners with a charitable organization in that space. 2013's partner is East West Players, the country's premier Asian-American theater troupe. As always, the Plate by Plate showcased the culinary chops of some of the City's most popular and up-and-coming eateries, all washed down by unlimited, free flowing booze of all varieties. And of course, I'm continuing on as PbP's Manager of Restaurant Relations, my third year in the role.


Left: Former PbP legal counsel Annie Lin running the show at the check-in table.
Right: Marketing Team members Eve Yen and Alison Ma, with Manager of Public Relations Mayly Tao (of DKronuts fame).


Left: Director of Events Risa Abarientos, alongside President Marian Bacol-Uba.
Right: Bacardi Portfolio Manager Jaymee Mandeville and colleague.


The Raymond, helmed by Tim Guiltinan (from Leatherby's down in OC), kicked things off with a Bonito Cured Sirloin, Jalapeno Salsa & Pitchfork Dressing along with Cantaloupe Ice Cream, Raspberry Streusel for dessert. Also present were Special Event Managers Teresa Brown and Emely Cubias.


Coincidentally, the Rare Beef Salad from Chef Perry Cheung's Phorage was a similar dish. That's Partner Jesse Duron in the suit there, who also happens to be the GM over at Hamasaku.


Left: The Raymond's Teresa Brown again, with eventual Instagram contest winner Katie Buntsma.
Right: Walter Manzke and Neal Fraser in the mix.


The Park's Finest brought some Filipino flavor with Mama Leah's Coconut Beef & Rice and Ann's Cornbread Bibingka. Rockin' the shades is Co-Founder & BBQist Johneric Concordia, along with Christine Araquel-Concordia.



Lazy Ox Canteen had their Octopus Curry with Ratatouille and Lazy Ox Hand Whipped Rice Pudding. Chef Hiroyuki Fujita (formerly of Fat Spoon) is working there now, and was joined by Assistant Manager Shana Dysert.


Taberna Arros y Vi, Michael Cardenas' newest project, was repped by Executive Chef Verite Mazzola and GM Wes Zelio. What did they serve? Some dainty Shrimp Gambas.



Starry Kitchen's Nguyen Tran was without his Kitchen Ninja tonight, but still managed a hearty dish of Singaporean Chili Crab Gumbo & Buttermilk Beer Beignet, with Black Sesame Panna Cotta with Green Tea Lemon Latte Cookies for dessert.


Director of Partner Outreach Eden Tol and Manager of Campaign Partner Kayla Vu with representatives from East West Players.


Bill DiDonna and Charles Kelly's ambitious Echo Park eatery Allumette gave out tasty little bites in the form of a German Butterball Potato Chip, Coconut-White Soy Marinated Salmon Roe, Yuzu Cream. Interestingly, Chef Miles Thompson was joined tonight by Derrick De Jesus, whom we last saw over at Alma.


Rivera's Columbian Chocolate Torte with Habaneros and Citricos was quite a sight to behold.


From Hamasaku, Executive Chef Wonny Lee and Executive Sushi Chef Yoya Takahashi joined forces to produce a Pork Belly Handroll with Gochujang Moromiso.


Bashan, meanwhile, gave us a delightful nibble of Sword Tip Squid, Red Pepper Chutney, Mango.


Left: National Director of Operations & Secretary Eleanor Lem with National Leadership Development Director Jason Ho and PbP NY Director of Finance Sunny Chiou.
Right: President Marian Bacol-Uba shows off a golden plate signed by all the restaurants, the prize for the winner of the PbP Instagram competition (attendees were encouraged to post photos with the hashtag #playwithfoodla).


Chef Neal Fraser (whom you may recognize from the current season of Top Chef Masters) is opening up Redbird at Vibiana early next year, and gave us a tantalizing preview with his Dungeness Crab Salad with Curried Cauliflower and Micro Shiso.



Joining Fraser in the VIP was Kali Dining's Kevin Meehan, who produced a one-two punch of Dungeness Crab, Avocado, Tomato, Cilantro and Vanilla Curd, Strawberry, Pistachio, Balsamic.


Left: Director of Volunteer Management Yulree Chun taking charge.
Right: Former PbP LA member Jennifer Chen is now Manager of Team and Leadership Development up in San Francisco.


Thai sensation Jet Tila gave us a hearty Khao Soi, though unfortunately I managed to miss snapping a photo of the Chef. Tila, of course, just opened up Kuma Snow Cream in Las Vegas.



The Oinkster (Andre Guerrero, Jan Purdy) had a very substantial Hand Cut House Made Pastrami Sandwich, followed up by brownies.


Left: Director of Events Risa Abarientos and Events Team member Sarah Mendoza.
Right: Eric Tung brought a much more attractive date than he did last year in the form of Melissa Lee.


Downtown Italian hotspot Bestia had Grilled Beef Tongue, Green Garbanzo Bean Puree & Pickled Eggplant & Salsa Verde. Chef Ori Menashe, meanwhile, was looking as smoldering as ever.



Stella Barra Pizzeria had Chef/Partner Jeff Mahin (whom you may recognize from The Taste) and Special Events and Catering Manager Kaitlin Leard on hand for their duet of Summer Tomato Salad, Arugula Pesto, Fresh Burrata, Smoked Almonds, House-Made Bread and Madagascar Vanilla Bean Custard, Cognac infused Preserved Peaches, Hazelnut Crumble.


Headed by GM Bobby Caravella, Saddle Peak Lodge served up Duck Mousse, Brandied Cherries, Cornichons atop toast.


Fluff Ice offered two variations of its shaved ice: the LAMILL Coffee Organic Black Onyx Blend and a loose-leaf steeped Thai Tea Fluff, both topped off with Cream & Sugar and Condensed Milk.


Left:DJ Shy kept us going throughout the evening.
Right: Props to Patina for not being shy about busting out the liquid nitrogen canisters.


Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale's (Executive Chef Seakyeong Kim) was the lone Orange County restaurant at the event, but that didn't stop them from plating hefty House Made Mini Korean-BBQ Sausage Rolls, Jalapeno Potato Roll, Caramelized Onion, Wasabi Aioli, Kimchi Sauerkraut. I really would like to get some more OC representation going, but what else is worthwhile down there? And yes, I did ask Playground (they ended up donating to the silent auction).



Dessert slanger Ramekin had perhaps the widest array of treats for us tonight: a Key Lime Tart with Whipped Cream, Nectarine Tart, Chocolate Chip & Oatmeal Raisin Cookies, three sorbets (Ambrosia Melon, Blueberry, Tangelo), and even more ice creams (Banana Choco Chip, Chocolate, Earl Grey, Green Tea, Jasmine Green Tea, Vanilla). Note that Chef Jason Park has just opened up Maru in West LA as well.


Downtown LA grande damePatina was on hand with Chef Charles Olalia's signature Tamarind Braised Lamb Shoulder, Feuille De Bric, Whipped Yogurt, Little Gem Lettuce, arguably the schmanciest dish of the night.



Next door, Top Chef: Just Desserts finalist Carlos Enriquez and Patina Pastry made waves with their modernist trio of Nitro Cotton Candy (probably the most oft referenced dish of the night), Coconut-Mango-Passion Fruit Squeeze Pop, and reimagined black forest cake.


Left: Two thumbs up from the dynamic duo of Stephane Bombet and Ricardo Zarate.
Right: Director of Marketing Aliyah Wong, Director of Fundraising Sunny Chung, Marketing Team member Alison Ma.


Heading outdoors, we see Executive Chef Byron Freeze and Circa's Tunisian Chili Marinated Prawn.


Micheladas were the just what the doctor ordered from Guelaguetza.


Left: Devon Espinosa with Bill Chait's entourage: Zoe Chait, Julie Mills, Tanya Holt.
Right:Mole queen Bricia Lopez, as ebullient and effervescent as ever.


Tony Esnault is, of course, the latest chef to take over the kitchens at Yassmin Sarmadi's venerable Church & State, and presented a rather striking Salade Paysanne Fraicheur, Farmers Market Tomatoes, Eggplant, Zucchini, Sweet Corn, Herb Vinaigrette. Note that the Chef is also planning on opening up a new restaurant called Spring, located on Spring Street, next Spring.


Seoul Sausage Co cornered the ball market tonight (apologies to Starry Kitchen) with their Lil' Osaka Ball, Japanese Curry Ground Kalbi and Potato Rice Ball served with a Shoga Aioli. Badass.


Left:MasterChef Season 3 finalist Felix Fang. I was really rooting for her to win the whole thing.
Right: Artist William Zin enthralled us with a live chalk art demo.



I believe Star King BBQ is the first KBBQ joint to make an appearance at Plate by Plate, and owner Jackie Yoo had both an Acorn Jelly Salad and Sweet Potatoes Noodles with Veggies to go along with her Piedmontese Marinated Short Rib.


More Top Chef Masters love came in the form of Lukshon. Sang Yoon and Ted Hopson presented a Hawaiian Red Prawn & Tea Leaf Salad, Chana Dal, Sesame, Marcona Almonds, Peanuts, Crispy Prawn Head, Chile Aioli, which just so happens to be the same dish that gave team Lukshon the win on last week's episode (and which I also tried during my last dinner at the restaurant). Very cool.


Left: Matt Biancaniello, with his trademark basket of farmers market produce.
Right: I don't know how this guy managed to steal my name tag.


Restaurant Row newcomer Scratch|Bar is already making a name for itself, and tonight Chef Phillip Frankland Lee and Pastry Chef Margarita Lee (can you tell she's a former model?) prepared one of their signature bites: Pork Belly & Raw Oyster.


Longstanding PbP participants Ricardo Zarate and Stephane Bombet repped their latest restaurant, Paiche, by giving attendees a taste of Yuquitas: Stuffed Yucca Beignets, Manchego Cheese, Grated Parmesan & Serrano Sauce.


Left: Sponsor Ketel One always does it up proper while running the main bar. A favorite of almost all the attendees.
Right: With Co-Masters of Ceremonies Susan Hirasuna (Fox 11 News) and James Kyson (Heroes).


Executive Chef Atsushi Kenjo and Marketing & Creative Manager Cindy Choi were here for Chaya Downtown. Their dish? Brie Cheese Tempura, Yellow Peach Marmalade.


Chef de Cuisine Sainegee Wong from Andre Guerrero's Belgian beer cafe Little Bear opted for an appealing Fried Oyster Gougere Slider.


Director of Volunteer Management Yulree Chun gets chummy with Walter Manzke and David Féau.



Gavin Mills (Tavern, Wood & Vine) was here with wife Jessica Lauricella Mills to debut their new charcuterie project, Mills + Company. If the Chicken Liver Mousse and Country Pate were any indication, they're off to a good start.


Lexington Social House won the "best dish" competition with their Yellowtail Tuna, Compressed Watermelon, Yuzu Tobiko, Candied Wasabi, Ponzu Crème Fraiche. And yes, that's none other than David Feau, who's consulting for the restaurant currently.


Viva La Art was on deck with live artwork demos from John Park and Hans Haveron.


Chef Kimmy Tang's 9021pho had two types of its namesake soup available: Pho Ga (Chicken), and Pho Chay (Veggie & Tofu).


Last, but certainly not least, were Walter and Margarita Manzke with Petty Cash Taqueria. The Chef's Ceviche Negro was a dish that I really enjoyed during my last visit there. For those keeping count, Republique (in the old Campanile space) should be opening up in the coming months, so be on the lookout for that.


Left: The line on Main Street.
Right: Violet Kim from the K-Town reality show, with new beau Blair Tudas.

This year, we made a real effort to beef up the mixology portion of Plate by Plate, and thus organized a cocktail competition judged by Matt Biancaniello, Devon Espinosa, and Bacardi rep Jaymee Mandeville. The goal was to have three contestants create a cocktail on the fly that would best incorporate Bombay Sapphire East gin. Originally, we'd confirmed Deysi Alvarez (Paiche, Mo-Chica, Picca, Fraiche, Rivera), Dino Balocchi (Littlefork, Longman & Eagle in Chicago), and Brittini Rae Peterson (Goldie's, Ink, The Tar Pit, Fig & Olive, Soho House). However, none of the three competitors would end up actually competing. Dino dropped out the day before Plate by Plate for unknown reasons, but fortunately we quickly found Nate Oliver (Harvard & Stone, Ink, Church & State) to take his place. Then, Deysi fell sick and had to pull out while we were setting up for the event; thankfully, Brady Weise from 1886 (who was here to run the VIP bar) agreed to replace her. And finally, if that wasn't enough, Brittini Rae went AWOL, so Marcel Vigneron (yes, Marcel) had to step in at the last minute. With everything finally in place, we were free to begin, albeit a bit behind schedule. First, the mandatory introductions. The competitors get going; they only had 10 minutes to come up with their drink. Marcel is the last to finish, while his fellow competitors look on in apparent consternation. Since judging was done blind, the drinks were rearranged in haphazard order before the judges tasted and rendered a verdict. The winner, by unanimous decision, was Brady Weise and his concoction of Bombay Sapphire East gin, bianco vermouth, peach, lime, simple syrup, and various herbs, garnished with chamomile and heirloom tomato. For his efforts, he received a commemorative etched Plate by Plate trophy, a limited edition bottle of Bacardi 1909 rum, and a $50 Sugarfish gift card. In addition, all of the contestants and judges each received a $25 gift certificate to use at Bar Keeper in Silver Lake as a token of appreciation.

Left: President Marian Bacol-Uba and the new boyfriend.
Right:Eater LA Editor Kat Odell. And yes, I'll be watching Eat Drink Love.


Left: Fundraising Team member Clayton Tran: VIP area bouncer.
Right: VIP guests were also treated to a magician. Here, Eric Tung is utterly bewildered.


This year, Plate by Plate turned up the wick in the VIP by having 1886 at The Raymond tend the VIP bar (using products donated by various participants, including Ketel One and Bacardi). This arrangement proved quite popular, with the cocktails coming out of here really taking things up a notch. I was particularly fond of their Maime Taylor (Dewar's Highlander Honey, Fresh Lime, Ginger, Angostura).


Left: PbP SF represent: National Leadership Development Director Jason Ho, Manager of Restaurant Relations Mary Zhang, Director of Events Yatman Kwan.
Right: Manager of Auction Donations Nami Han taking care of business in the silent auction area.


Left: MC Susan Hirasuna, with Margaret Lin and Events Team member Sarah Mendoza.
Right: Bill Chait, his daughter Zoe, and Tanya Holt lounging in the VIP.


Left: Director of Operations Ray Warriner with Theresa Kiang.
Right: A word from Tim Dang, Artistic Director for East West Players.


Left: Project by Project National President JT Kim and PbP LA President Marian Bacol-Uba, with Outreach Team member Kayla Vu.
Right: Lily Yip (whom I first encountered at a dinner at Night+Market) and friend.


Left: Tuyet Nguyen, Phil Cheng, Elizabeth Yang, and friends.
Right: Marcel Vigneron and his latest squeeze.


Patina's nitro cotton candy proved to be quite popular for obvious reasons.


Left: Production Manager Vickie Chan regulating.
Right: Carmel Mayol and friends resting after a long night.


Left: Oanh Nguyen, 2012 National Director of Events as well as Director of Events for 2011's event (and the person who initially introduced me to the organization), with Kayla Vu and friend.
Right: Oanh with Project by Project National Director Nirendran Kathirithamby.


Left: None other than Darin Dines bidding (rather surreptitiously, seemingly) on a Bestia gift card. He would go on to win cards from both Bestia and The Royce.
Right: Speaking of Darin, that's Marcus Lo, the winner of his ticket giveaway, to the right, along with real estate maven Michael Hsu.


Left: Plate by Plate mainstay Sherwin Goo (I first encountered him back at the 2010 event), with requisite ladies in tow.
Right: Former PbP Manager of Campaign Partner Relations Jackie Fung with former Manager of Leadership Development Emi Fukuoka.


Left: Manager of Beverages & Winery Relations Danny Li with Manager of Design (and fiancée) Margaret Lin.
Right: Starry Kitchen's Nguyen Tran mixing it up with Patina head toque Charles Olalia.


Left: Elizabeth Yang (whom I first met at Alma) seems to be having fun waiting in line for the always-popular photo booth, provided this year by Sutando.
Right: Yes, that's Marcel Vigneron, tongue out, a headstand, a gilded toilet, a fitting way to end this recap.



Previous Plate by Plate posts: 2012, 2011, 2010

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ink. (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

August 11, 2013, 8:30 pm

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Ink Restaurant
8360 Melrose Ave, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.651.5866
www.mvink.com
Mon 07/29/2013, 08:30p-01:10a



It'd been a while since I last visited Ink, and I was curious to see what the restaurant was up to these days. For better or worse, I felt compelled to do it proper like I did my first time here and order the entire menu, a much more challenging proposition now due to the presence more items as well as larger portion sizes.


gin [$13.00] | oro blanco, aperol, kefir lime, ipa foam, salt
mezcal [$14.00] | floc de gascogne, celery, lemon, cucumber
The bar (now run by Gabriella "Gabby" Mlynarczyk) ended up sending out every single cocktail on the menu, kicking things off with these two. The gin cocktail was pretty neat, with a salty, citrus-y blast on the attack that really tempered the booze, all while the drink decreased in intensity leading toward a short, clean finish. The mezcal, meanwhile, was rather nice as well, with the smokiness of the spirit well balanced by the contrasting sweet, sour, and cucumber-y notes present. Very subtle for a mezcal drink.


oysters [$19.00] | half dozen, mignonette ice
Oysters were really, really nice, with the sour-sweetness of the mignonette playing perfectly off of their inherent brine, making for an utterly balanced and nuanced presentation of the bivalves, replete with some textural contrast to boot.


little gems [$13.00] | burrata, anchovy cracker, lemon dressing
Here was what could be viewed as a thoroughly reworked Caesar salad. The lush, cool, creamy nature of the burrata made sense against the lettuce, while the lemon-y dressing added a bit of tartness to the fray. However, the key was the use of those anchovy crackers, which contributed an integrating salinity that really brought the dish together (while adding a lovely crunchiness in the process).


blended scotch [$14.00] | toasted coconut, thai basil, cardamaro
manzanilla [$9.00] | sherry, house rhubarb soda, strawberry lambic ale
Next, we had a veritable herb garden in the form of a blended scotch cocktail, its refreshing, fragrant aromatics leading to a silky smooth booziness from the whiskey cut by the sweet spice of Cardamaro--very cool. The manzanilla was also appealing, with a sweet, soft, floral, fruity nature to it that went beautifully against the sherry--almost apple juice-y in nature.


asparagus [$12.00] | cooked in hay, goats milk ice, medjool date
Asparagus arrived cooked in hay, giving it a cool smoky, almost meaty character that just worked with the lushness of the goat's milk. Also crucial: the dates, which imparted barely enough sweetness to keep things interesting.


cuttlefish [$16.00] | melon tenderloin, jalapeno jello
The Chef is somewhat known for his cuttlefish noodles, and it's easy to see why. Texturally, they were pretty amazing, with a soft, silken consistency to them, and worked wonders as a base to the dish. The slight spice of the gelatin paired gorgeously with the sugary, succulent fruit as well, while vesicles of finger lime added pin pricks of tartness into the mix. Even better? The fantastic savory bits tossed in--overall, a symphony of subtleties.


islay scotch [$16.00] | ginger, yuzu, honey (chef's favorite)
bourbon [$12.00] | cocchi rouge, campari, chocolate bitters, strawberry lambic
The islay scotch is ostensibly Voltaggio's favorite drink, and I can see why. It's a riff on Sam Ross' Penicillin, but is made completely with Laphroaig, leading to a stronger, smokier character than usual, but one that's still eminently balanced by the sweet 'n' sour notes present. Sticking with the whiskey theme, the bourbon cocktail also worked, with a strong bittersweet bouquet leading to a viscous body imbued with counterbalancing fruity and tart notes, all set against an apparent background of bourbon.


hamachi [$18.00] | citrus kosho, smoked buttermilk, tomato, oaxacan cheese
There was a bit too much going on for me here. The fish of course was on point, and the contrasting thrusts of salty, sweet, creamy, tart actually worked with each other, but the combination of that and the hamachi tended to over shadow the latter.


charred avocado [$16.00] | dungeness crab, almond sponge, smoked oil
This was another tricky, yet effective dish, with the sweetness and brine of the crab beautifully matched with the contrasting forces of astringent char and creamy lushness in the avocado. I really appreciated the light, almost ethereal quality of the sponge, too, which served as a moderating element in the course.


la quercia berkshire ham [$16.00] | beets, yogurt, nutmeg oil
Next was quite possibly the coolest presentation of sliced ham I'd ever encountered. Taken in isolation, the La Quercia was exactly what it should be: slick, fatty, nutty, and oh-so tasty. However, combining it with the creaminess of yogurt and sweetness of beets resulted in some pretty amazing flavor profiles that just made perfect sense.


beef tartare [$15.00] | hearts of palm, sea bean chimichurri, horseradish, rye
The beef tartar was a bit of an improvement over the previous version of the dish I'd tried. Texturally, the meat was flawless, and I liked the countervailing levity and intensity brought on by the hearts of palm and sea bean combo. However, the crux was that horseradish, which really did a fantastic job in providing a blast of heat that just tied everything together in stellar fashion. Lovely crunch and counter from those rye chips, too.


tequila [$14.00] | sherry, pineapple, orgeat, lime, mole
vodka [$14.00] | watermelon, aloe vera, gentian, lemon, sweet tart rim
I rather fancied the tequila cocktail, with its wonderful sweet spice from the orgeat-mole combo that really formed a unified front with the spirit. And the vodka? I swear it tasted of Sour Patch Kids, not necessarily a bad thing mind you.


duck rillette [$14.00] | charred leeks, kumquats, charcoal waffle
Duck rillettes came in an untraditional presentation, but the flavor was there in spades. The depth of the duck took center stage, faultlessly paired with the smoky savor of those leeks, all while the kumquats gave up a hint of tartness. I liked the "hat" here too, which was key in providing a modicum of texture to the course, along with additional complexity of flavor.


corn [$12.00] | housemade doritos, nori, green onion
Here was a fun, novel preparation of corn. Its sweetness was keenly displayed, yet at the same time, expertly tempered by the green onion. It would've been tasty enough as-is, but the incorporation of "Doritos" is what made the dish, with the chips adding a wonderful crunch and savor to things.


potato charcoal [$10.00] | housemade sour cream, black vinegar
You could almost call this a throwback to the papas arrugadas from Voltaggio's days at The Bazaar. Potatoes arrived pitch black and wonderfully salty, a great complement to the dab of sour cream in the bowl. However, what made this really special was the included spray bottle of black vinegar, which imparted a crucial piquancy to the taters that really made the dish work.


monterey squid [$14.00] | coconut-onion soubise, chanterelles, miso
Squid was deftly prepared, coming out supple and springy to the bite, with a delicate flavor that was augmented by the intensity of the mushrooms and miso here, all while the onion gave us a bit of countervailing astringency over a base of subtle sweetness.


white whiskey [$12.00] | popcorn, cornmilk, lemon, liquorice bitters
aquavit [$13.00] | grüner veltliner, chamomile, honey, orange oil, bee pollen
white rum [$14.00] | banana, brown butter, curacao, lime
Our final round of cocktails was a keeper as well. The white whiskey conveyed a strong notion of booziness, set against the sweet and tangy notes present while the liquorice-laced foam served to moderate the drink. On the other hand, the aquavit was much more subtle, with a floral, soft sweetness that melded wonderfully with the spiciness inherent in the spirit. Finally, we had the white rum, which I found a little tropical-tasting in nature, yet light and easy-drinking, with a smart component in the form of that brown butter.


soft shell crab [$19.00] | sea bun, miso mayo
During his stint at The Dining Room, Voltaggio put out the best version of soft shell crab I've had. Here, he shows his facility with the ingredient once more. The SSC was spot on--crispy and just bursting with briny goodness, with the miso mayo adding even more depth and complexity to the crustacean. I loved the levity imparted by the veggies here too, as well as how gnarly that bread looked.


octopus [$22.00] | ink. shells, young fennel, pimenton
Voltaggio has always had a way with octopus, and this dish was no exception. The octopod came out delightfully supple, with a lovely char and a savoriness to it that worked alongside the pleasantly firm shell pasta and zesty fennel, while the pimenton added a tinge of warmth to the dish.


halibut [$34.00] | liquid falafel, greek yogurt, sumac onions
Halibut came expertly cooked--mild, firm, and flaky, with a nice tanginess imparted by the sumac here. My favorite part, though, was that liquid falafel, which served as an excellent exclamation point to the course.


egg yolk gnocchi [$15.00] | mushroom brown butter, hen of the woods
Gnocchi were creamy, rich, liquid-y, and yes, a bit eggy, a luxurious pasta that was rightly heightened by the in-your-face earthiness of the mushrooms.


lollipop kale [$14.00] | crème fraiche, pig ears, togarashi
Next was a possible variation on the ubiquitous kale salad that was certainly one of the highlights of the dinner. The bright, verdant bitterness of the veggie was proudly conveyed, yet offset masterfully by the saltiness of those pig ears, all while the crème fraîche-laced broth contributed an enveloping richness that really brought all the elements together utterly cohesively.


lamb neck [$16.00] | fried egg, yogurt curd, potato, wild herbs
Braised lamb neck was exactly what you'd want: unabashedly, falling-apart tender, with deep, dark, ovine flavors. The meat was satisfying alone, but the crunchy "basket" and herbs were what really made it shine. And the runny egg? It pretty much makes everything better. Yum.


branzino [$33.00] | roasted cauliflower, caper, fermented grapes
Branzino was pretty divine, delicate in body, with a wonderfully saline relish and delightfully crisp, savory skin. Cauliflower served as a fitting accompaniment, but the combination of caper and grape veered toward overly piquant, stealing some of the attention away from the fish unfortunately.


lamb belly [$21.00] | salsify, mushroom hay, garlic ricotta
Time for more lamb, this time the vaunted belly. It came out luxurious and fatty (but not overly so), with a whisper of smokiness to it that paired swimmingly with the mushroom. Salsify served to balance out some of the heft of the meat, and there was even a bit of a citrus-y overtone in the dish that I liked.


heritage pork [$26.00] | cranberry beans, lardo, blackberry vinegar
The pork was a winner, coming out soft and succulent, with a delectable porcine relish to it that was further intensified by the veil of lardo draped on top. Beans, meanwhile, served to ground the dish, and I quite appreciated the sweetish tang of that vinegar as well.


At this point, we popped a bottle of 1996 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque that one of my dining companions had graciously shared. This was, of course, the late-disgorged version of DP, and was very young tasting: tightly wound and fresh, with plenty of tart, lemon-y notes to it, along with a lively acidity and interesting saltiness even. This one should develop nicely.


beef cheeks [$25.00] | turnips, onion caramel, beef threads
Beef cheeks were downright tender, gelatinous even, and chock full of bovine goodness. They were actually quite heavy taken alone, so the turnips were key in imparting a modicum of levity to the dish. Lovely crunch here from the tangles of beef threads, too.


beef short rib [$30.00] | radish noodles, puffed tendon, pho broth
The savories concluded with a superb rendition of pho. The meat itself verged on decadent, with a fantastic beefiness to it and a wonderful crust. It blended both sweet and savory flavors in a mouthwatering package that paired in commendable fashion with the aromatics of the herbs here, all while the radish contributed a counterbalancing crunch and lightness to the fray. The included tendon chips were great fun as well.


elderflower [$10.00] | greek yogurt, citrus confetti, hibiscus curd
You could almost think of our first dessert as an elevated version of shaved ice. It was completely refreshing and light, with a fantastic blend of fruity, floral flavors accented by the tanginess of that yogurt. Very nice.


mountain yam [$12.00] | caramelized white chocolate, popcorn, coconut
Yamaimo is well known for its mucilaginous consistency, and here that texture was proudly displayed against a backdrop of multifaceted sweetness, the caramel notes being particularly apparent. Quite cool.


apple [$10.00] | caramel, walnut, burnt wood semifreddo
I think this is probably the only item on the menu that's been here since day one, and there's a good reason for that. The dessert was as marvelous as ever, with the apple melding beautifully with the caramel while the walnut and semifreddo added opposing smoky and nutty notes to the mix. A masterful amalgam of disparate tastes and textures.


chocolate [$11.00] | coffee cake, chicory, raw milk, cream cheese frost
Last up was Ink's take on the requisite chocolate dessert, this one deftly balancing out its richness with contrasting hits of coffee, mint, and bitter notes, with the cream cheese contributing an enveloping lushness to the course.


fernet | branca, fernet vallet, vanilla, cherry heering, cola cream
Finally, we had mini versions of the fernet cocktail, an explosion of herbal, woody, minty flavors bound by the soft sweetness of vanilla, cherry, and cola. Quite delicious actually, and a fitting close to the meal.

It's been a while, but the restaurant is going as strong as ever. Initially, a lot of people probably dismissed Voltaggio as a serious chef, but I think by this point--almost two years in--he's proven himself. This place is legit, and there's even more maturity in the cooking here now, especially with the very capable Cole Dickinson at the helm as Chef de Cuisine. Ink has become sort of a quintessential LA restaurant, and I'm really looking forward to seeing how the place evolves.

Maru (Los Angeles, CA)

August 8, 2013, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Scratch Bar (Beverly Hills, CA)

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Maru Restaurant
12400 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
310.820.7240
www.marusantamonica.com
Thu 08/08/2013, 08:15p-01:05a



Coming hot on the heels of his appearance at Plate by Plate, Matthew Biancaniello's latest project is entitled "Boozy Oysters," and, as the name implies, features alcoholic takes on everybody's favorite mollusk. The one-night-only affair was held at the new Santa Monica-adjacent Maru in collaboration with Maru's chef, Jason Park. Park, of course, is also the man behind Ramekin dessert shop in Los Feliz, and previously ran the original Maru in Valencia for 11 years (it closed in December).


Here, we see Biancaniello and Park at a station set up at the end of the sushi bar.


The evening's Boozy Oysters menu featured eight different varieties of the alcoholic bivalves, all priced at $5 each, in addition to an always-tempting uni ice cream. Click for a larger version.


Raicilla [$5.00] | blueberry juice air, papalo oil and borage flowers
Our barrage of oysters began with Biancaniello's personal favorite. It was one of mine, too, with the boozy heft of the raicilla tempered by the sweet, tart blueberry, all while the combination of Bolivian coriander and borage added a cucumber-y, herb-y brightness to things.


Hatch Chile [$5.00] | infused Aloe Liqueur shooter with garlic flowers
The sole shooter of the bunch, this one brought together a Kumamoto with contrasting notes of tart, cool, and sweet, all of which integrated well with the oyster's inherent brine.


Wheatgrass Saint Germain [$5.00] | foam with Dolin Blanc infused Cape Gooseberries
Here, wheatgrass imparted a vegetal tanginess to the Kusshi that was moderated in part by the base of vermouth and the sweetness of St-Germain, though overall, this one didn't "click" as well as some of the others.


Laphroaig [$5.00] | with salmon eggs infused with sake, passion fruit and blood orange
This was another standout for me, with the smoky weight of the scotch melding well with the salinity of the ikura, while the fruit added just enough levity to the Beau Soleil.


Watermelon juice served as an effective, and delicious palate cleanser in between courses.


Holy Santa [$5.00] | infused Rose Cocchi American granite and Smith Cross Rum
Yet another favorite of ours featured Kumamoto and hoja santa, the aromatic, spicy nuances of the herb pairing beautifully with the sweet, floral flavors in the course, all leading to a lingering blast of brine on the close.


Suze [$5.00] | with habanero brittle
A Beau Soleil with Suze was pretty neat, with the softly bittersweet nature of the apéritif playing well with the salinity of the oyster, all while the habanero made itself known right at the end.


Wild Toyon berry [$5.00] | infused Cachaca with mouse melons and thai basil
Next, a Kumamoto arrived paired alongside the tart, acidic, bright flavors of Toyon berry and mouse melon, with the Thai basil adding an overarching aromatic component to the mix.


Campari [$5.00] | infused with Passion fruit and peach pits and cherry tomatoes
We finished strong with this Campari-infused Kusshi, the bittersweetness of the liqueur and peach pits making perfect sense with the saltiness of the oyster. And we can't forget the passion fruit either, which added a delightful sweetness that really brought everything together.


Eight oysters, even boozy ones, hardly make for a complete meal, so we continued on with dinner by ordering off of Maru's regular menu. Click for larger versions.


Ankimo Sashimi [$19.00] | Monk fish liver. Japanese foie gras.
The oft-referenced foie gras of the sea was prototypical for the ingredient--rich, silky, and yes, liver-y, with its heft classically counteracted by the combination of ponzu, negi, and momiji oroshi.


Cherry Tomato Salad [$13.00] | Cherry tomatoes w/ our own house made ricotta cheese, shiso pesto, & a sherry vinaigrette.
Moving on, the cherry tomato salad was sort of like a reworked Caprese, with the sweet, tart tomatoes balanced by the weight of the ricotta, all while the shiso pesto made for some more interesting flavors.


Sword Lettuce Salad [$13.00] | A long & thin lettuce w/ an Asian green goddess dressing & a pan roasted runny egg w/ prosciutto.
Here, the richness and salt of the ham-runny egg combo was certainly enjoyable, with its potency balanced by the green goddess and the bitterness of the lettuce.


Tomato & Cucumber Salad [$12.00] | Organic Japanese tomatoes & cucumbers w/ avocado tossed in a fire-roasted red bell pepper dressing.
Our final salad was pretty straightforward, the tart, succulent nature of tomatoes pairing well with the light crunch of cucumbers, while the greens added the requisite astringency to the dish.


Scallop & Risotto [$22.00] | Seared divers' scallops over a creamy oven roasted tomato risotto. Finished w/ a warm verjus-olive sauce.
Scallops came out perfectly cooked: supple, yet satisfying to the bite, with a nice sear and a tasty blend of sweet and saline flavors that made sense against the tartness of the accompanying risotto. I just wish that the rice were a bit firmer.


Curry Lamb [$29.00] | Colorado lamb loin roasted med-rare w/ crispy-shiitake rice & marinated onion w/ cilantro & a Japanese curry.
Lamb was tasty--not overtly gamy but with a satisfying depth to it, although the meat could've stood to be more tender. The Japanese curry component was quite intriguing here, adding an additional complexity to the dish that worked out surprisingly well. The key, though, was the lightness and acidity imparted by the cilantro-onion combo, while texturally, the nurungji-esque rice cake on the bottom was much appreciated.


Time for some beer. The Ommegang "Rare Vos" Red Ale [$8] was an apt pair to the steak, with a strong malty backbone and a dry, subtly fruity character to it.


Ribeye for Two [$65.00] | 42oz. USDA Prime grilled med-rare w/ fingerling potatoes in crème fraiche & tempura buna shiimeji.
This impressive looking steak arrived sweet and smoky, with a nice crust to it. Flavors were robust, but I would've liked the meat cooked to a rarer temperature, so that I could've better appreciated its inherent goodness. Potatoes served as a fitting counterpoint to the ribeye, though I found the tempura'd buna shimejis to be even more effective.


Fingerling Potatoes [$9.00] | Velvety organic potatoes w/ maple smoked bacon tossed w/ crème fraiche.
These potatoes, meanwhile, were more interesting, with a great hit of salt from the bacon and a subtle tang courtesy of the crème fraîche.


Uni Ice Cream [$9.00] | With sake and sweet corn kernels
At this point, the kitchen was running out of uni ice cream (unsurprisingly), so we quickly had our fill of the stuff, a collaborative effort between Park and Biancaniello. It really was something special though, with the smooth, lush ice cream doing a fantastic job in capturing the sweet, saline essence of sea urchin, all while the corn added an additional, counterbalancing sugary component to the fray.


We followed up the Rare Vos with The Lost Abbey "Avant Garde" [$20], done in the Bière de Garde style. This one was very bread-y, with a slight herbaceous tinge to it and some sweet, fruity components as well, overarched by just a trace of bitterness.


Pork Belly [$16.00] | Braised in sake & soy over garlic black kale w/ marinated shallots & roasted tomatoes.
Pork belly was fork-tender, and not overly fatty, with boatloads of deep, dark, sweet flavors. Meanwhile, the astringent shards of kale here served as a fitting temper to the meat, as did the tart, citrusy shallots up top.


Pork in Puff Pastry [$21.00] | Tender braised pork in puff pastry. Served w/ grilled asparagus & a soy reduction sauce.
Our last savory course was a riff on the traditional Beef Wellington, and one of the highlights of the meal. Braised pork was almost char siu-ish in nature, showing off a certain sweetness along with plenty of piggy goodness. The flaky, buttery crust was a perfect accompaniment to the meat, and I appreciated the levity and crunch of the asparagus spears here as well.


Passion Fruit Panna Cotta [$9.95] | Organic passion fruit over a velvety panna cotta surrounded by a guava bellini.
Moving on to desserts now, the panna cotta was one of the better ones I've tried, with the tartness of passion fruit working beautifully over the dish's lush, smooth, creamy base.


Chocolate Bread Pudding [$8.95] | An adult bread Pudding w/ Valrhona semi-sweet chocolate. Served w/ vanilla ice-cream. Baked to order.
The bread pudding made sense with its interplay of chocolate and vanilla ice cream flavors, but what made it unique was its texture, with all the crispy bits thrown in.


Melon Soup [$8.95] | Frozen ambrosia melon juice w/ a watermelon soup, strawberries, grapes, & blueberries.
The melon soup, meanwhile, was utterly refreshing and light, with the central mass of sugary melon juice melding well with the lighter, more subtle nuances at play.


Peach Tart [$9.95] | Reiger Farms Elegant Ladies baked w/ an almond cream & crème fraiche ice cream.
A peach tart lived up to expectations, its fruity, sugary heft working alongside the deceptively light crème fraîche commendably.


Peach / Berry Cobbler [$8.95] | Organically grown fruit baked to perfection & topped w/ our Tahitian Vanilla ice-cream. Baked to order.
Finally, a cobbler arrived hot (very hot, actually) and hearty, a mélange of batter and fruit interjected by the cool, silky smoothness of that ice cream.

Biancaniello's latest foray into non-cocktailian realms was largely a success. There were some inventive, well-thought-out flavor combinations going on with the oysters, and I liked how he was able to present boozy, creative interpretations of the bivalves without masking their inherent goodness and character. Biancaniello often refers to himself as a sort of "cocktail chef," and clearly this experiment was another step in that direction.

In addition, I was glad that I got to sample some of Maru's regular menu items as well. There's a sort of classic Franco-Japanese fusion thing going on here, and the results were generally effective. I think it's a fitting replacement for the old Sasabune, offering up sushi in addition to more "Western" fare. And speaking of that sushi, I'm a bit curious about it as well, because from what I saw, the nigiri here looked pretty legit, too.

Scratch Bar (Beverly Hills, CA)

August 15, 2013, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Opus Sushi (Arcadia, CA)

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Scratch|Bar Restaurant
111 N La Cienega Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211
310.289.8010
www.scratchbarla.com
Thu 08/15/2013, 08:30p-11:55p





The newest denizen on Los Angeles's famous Restaurant Row is quite unlike any of its neighbors, eschewing the glitz of The Bazaar, the vastness of Lawry's, and the sheer hackwork that is The Stinking Rose. Instead, Chef/Owner Phillip Frankland Lee's curiously-named Scratch|Bar serves up some of the most inventive, creative cuisine La Cienega has ever seen, all in a cozy, unassuming setting. The place debuted on June 25th after a two week soft opening period, and has been garnering a loyal following ever since.

About the Chef: An LA native, Phillip Lee attended the Le Cordon Bleu program at the CSCA in Pasadena (where, apparently, he even won a scholarship contest put on by the National Honey Board). After graduating in 2009, he worked at Stefan's at LA Farm, and also staged at Providence. In February 2010, he started at Hatfield's, but would leave in December that year for Chicago. In the Windy City, Lee worked the line at L2O until February 2011, then apprenticed at Alinea and Blackbird before landing at The Park Grill, where he was Exec Sous.

Lee returned to SoCal in September 2011, launching Wolf Cuisine (a pricey tasting menu home delivery service) with partner Sylvain Allard. During this period, he also wrote a script called COOK: The Movie. Toward the end of 2012, Lee took the reins at D'Cache, a small Basque restaurant in Toluca Lake, but would leave soon thereafter to work on his own concept. The Chef debuted Scratch|Bar inside Santiago Garfunkel's Tiago Espresso Bar + Kitchen in May this year, but quickly outgrew the spot. As such, he partnered up with Darioush Danesh and moved into the Danesh's restaurant space, the former home of The Grill Pit, Restaurant 111, Tak, and the eponymous Darioush.

Chef Lee is joined here by Chef de Cuisine Joel David Miller (Cleo), Sous Chef Ryan Duval (D'Cache, Animal, wd~50), Pastry Chef-slash-actress-slash-model-slash-spouse-slash-business partner Margarita Lee (née Kallas), as well as Bar Manager Dave Fernie (Pour Vous, Harvard & Stone, Playa, Test Kitchen, La Descarga, Church & State).


The menu is divided into sections of increasing intensity, while reasonably-priced tasting menu options are also available (though the flagship 12-courser is still in work, pending completion of the kitchen-facing tasting bar). To drink, Davidson Fernie has put together a small cocktail list (mostly sake-based, due to the place's lack of a full liquor license), and you'll find a smattering of wines, beer, and even housemade sodas to boot. Click for larger versions.


Bangkok Dangerous [$13.00]
Speaking of those cocktails, we started with the Bangkok Dangerous, a concoction of nigori and junmai sakes, pineapple juice, ginger syrup, turmeric, cayenne, cardamom, and lemon juice that managed to be my favorite of the bunch. There was a blast of pineapple-y, citrus-y tartness on the attack that belied the sweet 'n' spicy overtones in the drink, while the heat of the cayenne really made itself known on a slow burning finish. Masterful.


Kale Chips [$3.00]
Chips of dehydrated kale were kissed with lemon and Parmesan, the bitterness of the vegetable expertly balanced by the tang of the citrus while the cheese added a smart base of savoriness to the course.


Honey Fried Olive Stuffed Olives [$5.00]
A plate of honey-battered and fried olives was fun--sweet at first, but with the piquancy of the fruit coming through toward the close. A great olive dish for all the olive haters.


Sourdough w/ Uni Olive Oil [$12.00]
A sea urchin-infused olive oil was divine, the lushness and brine of the roe really melding beautifully with the tangy, tart notes in the oil. Excellent when taken on top of the housemade bread (the product of a decades old starter I understand).


Supplies [$10.00]
In Memoriam [$10.00]
Next up for cocktails was the Supplies, made with nigori sake, pineapple, lime, and salt. This one could be thought of as a sake-based piña colada, a soft, fruity libation with just a bit of a kick. The In Memoriam, on the other hand, was like a riff on a sangria-calimocho-mulled wine combo, one made with Tempranillo, Coca-Cola, spiced apple, and other fruit. I found the drink utterly delicious: fun and easy-drinking, with a wonderful smoothness and hints of sweet, autumnal spice to it.


1/2 Dozen Oven Roasted Oysters [$18.00]
A half dozen (Kumai?) oysters arrived topped with a vividly-colored beet emulsion that reminded me of a similar preparation I'd had last year at The Amalur Project. It really worked though, with the subtle sweetness of the beet really moderating the inherent salinity of the mollusks.


Smoking Goat's Milk Cheese [$16.00]
Housemade two week-aged goat cheese came to the table ensconced in a glass terrine alongside charcoal-smoked Timothy hay. The chèvre was intensely smoky upon first taste, with the lushness and sweetness of the cheese only coming through toward the close. It was superb spread over the included bread, while the pickled veggies added a fantastic crunch and acidity that really brought everything together wonderfully.


Puffed Smelt [$5.00]
Here, in one of Scratch|Bar's most visually-arresting courses, smelt was dried then fried into "fossilized" rice cracker form. It was delightfully fishy and salty alone, and went laudably with the sugary tartness of the beet mustard and bone marrow smear on the bottom.


Bone Marrow Box [$5.00]
Next was a delightful mélange of bone marrow, shimeji, and onion, all encased in sourdough. The richness of the marrow formed the base to the course, with the tanginess of the mushroom making for a great counterbalance, all while a slight trace of heat underscored the entire bite. Tasty.


Pork Belly & Raw Oyster [$5.00]
The first time I'd had pork belly and oyster together was at Corey Lee's phenomenal Benu, but this version was probably better. The crux here was the undeniably smart combo of belly and Kumai, which really conveyed two facets of salinity that play off each other in stellar fashion, while texturally, the oyster's soft, slick consistency melded with the fattiness inherent in the pork. If that wasn't enough, the coconut-chamomile foam really topped things off gorgeously with its light, floral, countervailing character. This is quickly becoming Scratch|Bar's signature dish, and it's easy to see why.


Cobbler [$11.00]
Hero Heat-o [$10.00]
Our last round of cocktails brought us the Cobbler, which was described by our server as a sherry-based Old Fashioned, one composed of Amontillado, curaçao, maraschino, bitters, and orange. It was the booziest of the bunch, with the wine really showing through, yet deftly tempered by the delectably bittersweet flavors present. We also had the Hero Heat-o, comprising junmai sake, salt, lime, cane syrup, and cayenne. This one was likened to a sake-based daiquiri, a tart, balanced, and somewhat spicy drink that integrated the nihonshu nicely.


Shaved Vegetable Salad [$9.00]
The requisite salad dish was well played, a multifaceted presentation of sundry veggies that combined sweet, tart, and bitter nuances commendably under a veil of overarching nutty savor.


Blackened Cauliflower [$10.00]
The roasted cauliflower was another winner, with four different varieties joined by cauliflower chips, a cauliflower purée, red onions, and pistachios. It was great to experience the different faces of the vegetable, its mild, yet always satisfying relish joined by disparate smoky, tangy, and nutty flavors. Lovely textures, too.


Trio of Raw(ish) Salmon Belly [$13.00]
Next came six rosettes of salmon in various forms, all set in a dashi-inspired kombu-bonito broth that seemed to intensify the experience. Going right to left, we started with a raw preparation with lemon, sea beans, and green tea salt, the various accoutrements making perfect sense with the fattiness inherent in the belly. Number two was a blueberry-infused version, which had a tart, sugary thrust that worked surprisingly well with the fish. Last up was my favorite, a torched presentation that showed off a simply delectable char to it.


Cured Pig's Head [$11.00]
Lee's two week-cured pig head was somewhat like a fromage de tête in essence, gritty and loaded with a pork-y goodness that went just swimmingly against the piquant streaks of beet mustard on the plate, with the whole dish enveloped by just a whisper of sugary spice.


Chicken Livers & Sweet Corn Agnolotti [$14.00]
I definitely enjoy my chicken liver, but this was even a bit much for me. The dish was intense, the heady, earthy smack of the liver really taking center stage, with the agnolotti adding an apparent sweetness to the fray while the greens tried their best to impart some levity. Approach this one carefully.


With the cocktails all drunk up, went opted for a bottle of bubbly in the form of the Mont Marcal Brut Reserva (Spain) [$48]. It was a pretty prototypical Cava, a tart, acidic, citrus-y wine with a light backbone of yeastiness and just a smidge of minerality.


Sea Urchin & Crispy Pork Belly Cobb [$17.00]
The so-called Cobb salad was almost nothing like a Cobb salad (coming out more like a bibimbap), which is probably a good thing. Rice was substituted for lettuce, and in place of the traditional toppings were avocado purée, uni, ikura, and pork belly. We opted to mix everything together and the resultant mass was really quite neat, with the rice serving as a stage on top of which the various elements could really mesh. I especially appreciated the pork, which added wonderfully salty, crunchy bits to the mix that really drew your attention.


Potted King Crab [$18.00]
You could almost think of this next dish as the best seafood salad you've ever had. It was one of my favorites of the night to be sure, with the cool, sweet crab forming a great base to the dish that really allowed the other ingredients to sing. There was a lot going on, and I was especially fond of the cucumber-y zing of the borage. Fantastic textures here too, with the crunchy "crust" of the course being particularly appealing.


Warm Hamachi w/ Sweetbreads & Grapefruit [$15.00]
Hamachi was quite fetching, arriving to the table supple and fatty, its brine tempered by the combination of artichoke and the astringent Bloomsdale spinach. Sweetbreads, meanwhile, were poached in white wine and imparted a subtle weightiness to the dish that was almost easy to miss.


Charred Octopus Pasta [$16.00]
I'm a sucker for octopus, but this dish fell a bit short. What we had was a chermoula-charred octopus set in confit Yukon gold potato "noodles," with parsley, tomatoes, red onion, lemon, and a kalamata olive cream. My issue was that the octopus verged on tough, with a somewhat rubbery quality that wasn't terribly appealing. That was a shame, as its flavor was on point, with a good depth and sweet spice to it that paired well with the Mediterranean-inflected forces present. I even liked the noodles as well, which had a great snap and crunch to them.


Dry Aged Hanger Steak [$21.00]
At this point, we moved on to the larger courses. First up was the hanger steak, which managed to be pretty tender given the cut, and, of course, showed off plenty of bovine goodness. Interestingly, there was an undercurrent of sweet spice here that I couldn't quite put my finger on.


A Box Full of Squid [$17.00]
The name of this dish really needs to be changed to squid in a box for obvious reasons. What was interesting here was how the textures of shrooms and squid mimicked each other, giving us a sense of simultaneously supple and snappy consistencies. Unfortunately, I found the potato "box" overly salty, while the tartness of the tomatoes as well as the charred eggplant tended to mask the main ingredients.


Roasted Salmon Salad [$16.00]
Lee's kale salad was a refreshing take on the seemingly ubiquitous dish, and was a winner in my book. The briny notes from the fish were proudly conveyed here, but effectively tempered by the bitterness of the kale and the otherwise bright, nutty flavors at play. Lovely crunch from the crispy salmon skin, too.


A Box Full of Vegetables [$15.00]
Surprisingly, the veg in a box (try saying that three times fast) was more effective than the cephalopod version above. Here, I appreciated how the veggies were each distinct in texture and flavor, yet flowed together seamlessly, bound by an almost Asian-y savoriness that overarched the dish.


Boneless Skinless Chicken Breast [$18.00]
Here, in our last savory course, the Chef showed us what he could do with the most prosaic of ingredients. In fact, one of my dining companions even deemed this the best chicken breast he'd ever had. The breast was clearly the star of the show, coming out juicy and just teeming with chicken-y goodness. I really enjoyed it alone, but the spinach served as a nice counterweight to the bird, which also had a spicy complexity to it from what I believe was cayenne.


To go with dessert, we ordered two of the restaurant's housemade sodas. The Scratch Cola [$4] was pretty fantastic, with an endearing sweet-spicy quality to it that was reminiscent of a Coke-cream soda-root beer mash-up. The Scratch Ginger Brew [$4], meanwhile, was almost as good, with an utterly refreshing, bright, bracing, true-to-life ginger-y relish that reminded me of a similar drink I'd had at Alma.


Cream of Orange Soup [$9.00]
Lee's cream of orange soup was pretty neat, the "hot OJ" melding nicely with the savory, almost garlicky nuances at play. Non-traditional, and almost cerebral in nature.


Dark Chocolate & Cayenne Candy Bar [$9.00]
We ended with a dark chocolate ganache, one paired with lemon curd, salted whipped cream, EVOO-laced chia seeds, cayenne, mint, and sugar cookie crumbles. This one was more approachable, but still complex, with a lot of moving parts that somehow came together to make a cohesive whole. The chocolate was the hero here, but had a strong cast of supporting players.

Chef Lee likens his cooking to "a new approach to an old sport," and that's sort of a fitting description to the food here, which verges on a combination of fun, whimsical, and modern, with some really unexpected, multilayered flavor combinations and unique presentations to boot. There's a certain hunger and verve to the cooking here that's particularly refreshing, especially given the environs. Scratch|Bar's probably the most ambitious cooking Restaurant Row has seen in a while, and I really hope it can stick around longer than some of its predecessors (I'm looking at you, Tak).

Opus Sushi (Arcadia, CA)

August 16, 2013, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Saam at The Bazaar (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Scratch Bar (Beverly Hills, CA)

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Opus Sushi Restaurant
1027 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007
626.447.1027
Fri 08/16/2013, 08:15p-11:35p





If being a Korean-owned sushi place is a bad sign, then surely being a Chinese-owned sushi place is even worse. That's some sound logic, but those predispositions were challenged in spectacular fashion last year when I experienced a superb dinner at Ootoro in Walnut. With that meal fresh in memory, I took a gamble on Opus Sushi, which just opened last October in the space formerly occupied by Liang's Village Cuisine, and before that, Maru, another Japanese restaurant (no relation to the new Maru in West LA).


The corkage here is a reasonable $12 per bottle, though apparently the number of bottles they actually charge you for can vary wildly (we were charged for six of the nine bottles, though I've heard they've charged a flat $12 in the past, too). In any case, since Charlie Fu was with us, there was of course going to be Burgundy aplenty. First to the gate was the 2011 Domaine Pattes Loup Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux, one of my favorites of the night. I found it wonderfully light, smooth, almost silky, with soft lemon-y notes and an apparent, but not domineering backbone of minerality. Tasty stuff.


1: Shimasuzuki "Ceviche"
Billed as a sort of "Japanese style ceviche," what we had here was a martini glass of striped bass, ikura, caviar, and cucumber. The fish itself was pretty much flawless, supple, yet satisfying to the bite, with a nice depth to it. I really appreciated the additional punch imparted by the two types of roe as well, and the veggies provided a fitting lightness and crunch to the course. One nit: the fish-to-cucumber ratio was a bit off, as there was far more of the latter than needed.


One Chablis deserves another, specifically the 2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cote de Bouguerots. This one didn't quite reach the lofty levels of the former for me, but was enjoyable nonetheless. I found it tighter, more mineral driven and grassy, with more acidity to it. Overall, a bit more contemplative, austere even.


2: Amaebi/Uni/Kaki/Hamaguri Sashimi
Next up was a quartet of shellfish sashimi. I tried the Kumamoto first, and appreciated its trademark brine and how it paired with the tanginess of the tobiko (or was it masago?). The sweet shrimp (which was still moving, mind you), meanwhile, was spot on, crisp and snappy, with a clean taste that went superbly with a pinch of salt and a squirt of lemon. Sea urchin was also on point, with its sweetness nicely matched with the salty oyster hidden underneath. Finally, we had the cherrystone clam, the biggest surprise of the group. I really enjoyed it, particularly its firm, meaty, yet yielding consistency, and appreciated how the sweetness of the bivalve matched the subtly spicy tones present.


Moving on now to a red Burg, we had here the 2008 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays. It was a nice change of pace: bright, vivacious, and peppery on the nose, showing off more of an apparent berry character joined by a subtle undercurrent of earthy, herby, and meaty nuances. A bit tannic and spicy on the back end, too.


3: Madai/Kinmedai/Akamutsu Sushi
The first nigirizushi of the night brought us three relatively rare specimens. I went with the madai (red sea bream) to begin, and found it silky, supple, and delicate in flavor, with a fantastic accompaniment in the form of that piquant yuzukosho. The splendid alfonsino was even better, with its tinge of smoky char that went along with the tart, tangy notes present. Last up was the akamutsu, which I'd had only twice before at Shunka and Bar Masa. This was another winner (my favorite of the bunch), with an even more apparent char to it to go along with the richer, more substantial weight of the fish.


Our next wine was a gift from a seemingly inebriated old Chinese guy sitting next to us at the bar (they really do give the best gifts). For me, this 1974 Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Georges de Latour Private Reserve was past its prime, though still drinkable. Think musty, savory, herb-y, and smoky, with lots of faded fruit in a thin, water-y wine. More interesting than good.


4: Mirugai/Aoyagi Sashimi
Next, more clam action. The geoduck was some of the strongest I've had, with its focused, ocean-y savor on proud display, deftly counteracted bit just a hint of citrus. The orange clam, meanwhile, was a different story, with a much softer consistency and milder flavor, accented by the bit of burn from the sprouts tossed in.


Speaking of wines past their prime, here was another example: the 1982 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Cuvée Fleur de Champagne Rosé. This one was pretty much undrinkable (due to a faulty cork), and we barely managed to down a glass of the stuff. The bubbly was utterly oxidized, giving it a tart, nutty, puckering quality that verged on disconcerting. We were actually planning on giving a glass to the aforementioned drunk Chinese gentleman, telling him it was sherry, but unfortunately never got around to it.


5: Shima Aji/Hamachi/Kanpachi Hara Sushi
Here was a tasting of three belly cuts of fish (note that the plates used here are the exact same ones seen at Ootoro!). The striped jack was my favorite of the troika, with its wonderfully sweet flavor interjected by the salty kick of yuzukosho. The yellowtail, conversely, was much fattier, lusher, and more luxurious, while the amberjack was the firmest of the group, with more austerity on the palate.


Switching gears now, we went for some beer, and first up was the Foret Blanche from Brasserie Dupont. It was sort of a classic witbier--crisp and refreshing, with a citrusy, spicy character to it joined by some malty funk.


6: Hotate
Live scallop sashimi was sweet and briny, and accented by a sharp prick of citrus-y tang, though the sweetness of the miso could easy overwhelm it. The key, thus, was to incorporate the scallion, which added a wonderful astringency to the mix that really brought everything together.


Our final Burg was the 2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières, which was pretty fantastic, easily larger in scale than the two preceding Chards. It was velvety, almost viscous on the tongue, with delectable thrusts of slate and citrusfruit cut by a pleasing acidity.


Here, we see Chef/Owner Ken-san torching our uni. I understand that he used to work for Ootoro's chef Kai Wei Chen, which may explain some of the similarities in the food.


7: Uni Tataki
This might be the only occasion where I've had seared sea urchin, and I must say, the results were pretty fantastic--I'm surprised more restaurants don't do this. The sweetness of the roe was rightly conveyed, but the counterbalancing char bitterness here just added another layer of complexity that took the sushi to another level.


The lone Bordeaux entry this evening came in the form of the 2005 Chateau Talbot. It was sort of what you'd expect from the wine, with its young tannins and pleasant mix of herbaceous and fruity qualities. Not particularly cerebral, but quite enjoyable nonetheless.


Ken-san proudly shows off his Miyazaki wagyu strip loin. Dat fat!


8: Miyazaki Gyu Sashi
And here we see the aforementioned meat presented in sashimi form, a silky, delightfully marbled celebration of real-deal Japanese beef, nicely offset by its zesty topping of negi.


Now, Ken-san presents to us an impressive tuna collar for our next course.


9: Kamatoro
Arguably even more impressive than the wagyu was the kamatoro, a wonderfully fatty, slightly chewy sliver of fish that was perfectly accentuated by its yuzukosho topping. If you haven't had kamatoro before, you need to.


10: Miyazaki Gyu
Even more wagyu! Here, it was presented in steak form, a trembling mass of near gelatinous beef, uncompromisingly rich and utterly fatty--just look at the marbling. It was about as close to melt-in-your-mouth as you can get, and was served with accoutrements that did the best they could to contain the intensity of the cut.


11: Kama Yaki
Now, we were given the roasted version of the collar above. It was a heavy, heavy dish, with an almost beef-like quality to it and a pretty profound depth.


Back to beers now with Uinta Brewing's Tilted Smile Imperial Pilsner. This one was much more aggressive than I expected, with a really apparent, sweet-ish malty quality to it counteracted by just enough hop bitterness and a trace of booziness.


12: Ebi No Misoshiru
The heads from the shrimp above were incorporated into a miso soup, the ocean-y goodness of the crustacean adding just that extra bit of flavor to the already wonderfully aromatic, comforting, umami-laced flavors here.


Uni Sushi [$15.00]
An extra course of uni, just because.


With dinner coming to an end, we saved the Mikkeller Nelson Sauvignon for another day (was really looking forward to trying it, too) and instead went for the 1991 Glenlivet Triumph "Nadurra" 18 Year Old. This was a limited edition bottling made solely with Triumph barley, distilled and casked 22 years ago and bottled in 2009. I found this surprisingly approachable given its proof, and quite liked its honey-vanilla sweetness and woody characteristics, all finished by a pronounced spiciness. Very nice.


13: Reishi No Aisukurimu
Finally, to close, a refreshingly light, bright lychee ice cream.

The off-menu omakase that we enjoyed rang in at a not-too-unreasonable $150 per head, and I gotta say that the meal was very solid. The food was pretty much spot on throughout the entire night, and the quality of ingredients didn't leave much to be desired. Being able to enjoy true wagyu and kamatoro was a real treat as well, and the fun, jovial nature of our itamae certainly didn't hurt, either. Eating at a Chinese sushi place is certainly a bit of a change from the norm, but it's something that's actually worth experiencing, at least here.

Saam at The Bazaar (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

August 22, 2013, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Benu (San Francisco, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Opus Sushi (Arcadia, CA)

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Saam at The Bazaar
465 S La Cienega Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310.246.5555
www.thebazaar.com/beverly-hills-saam
Thu 08/22/2013, 08:00p-12:50a



Ever since my first visit back in 2009, Saam has remained my preferred way to dine at The Bazaar, as it affords patrons a reprieve from the hustle and bustle of the main dining room and instead presents a more serene experience focused almost solely on what's on the plate. Given that I quite enjoyed my last meal here, I'm a bit surprised that it's taken me over four years to return, but here I am. Back then, Michael Voltaggio was still in charge, but Saam is now run by Holly Jivin, with assistance from Barcelona native Aitor Zabala (Assistant Director of R&D for José Andrés' Think Food Group) as well as The Bazaar's main chef Joshua Whigham.


Saam's menu is usually 22 courses at $120 a head (with an optional $100 beverage pairing), but tonight we opted for an extended tasting priced at $160 for 29 courses. Click for a larger version.


1: Kaviar Kir Royale
As always, a meal at Saam begins with a welcoming cocktail, and tonight it was a riff on the Kir Royal made with Cava, crème de cassis, and crème de cassis spherifications. It was a fitting apéritif, classic in essence, with the sweetness of the blackcurrant working well with the dry, crisp nature of the sparkling wine.


2: Peking Dumpling
One of the highlights of the meal for me were these cotton candy dumplings stuffed with hoisin and chicharrón, then topped with microcilantro and gold foil. The sweet-savory interplay here was pretty genius, and I loved the herby overtones present as well, which served as the perfect exclamation point to the course. Definitely a "wow" factor here.


3: Peanut
The "peanuts" were actually comprised of praline and red Thai curry in a sugar shell, dusted with lime zest and ginger. Think fun, nutty, crunchy, and sweet, with just a hint of piquancy from the curry and a whisper of ginger-y tang.


4: Parmesan Pie
The world's smallest pie was composed of a Parmesan crisp, Parmesan cream, and basil. I really liked this one, with its mildly savory nuances on the attack leading to stronger, cheesier notes toward the back end, all with the herb adding an overarching, countervailing aromatic component to the bite. Yum.


5: Nuts & Yogurt
Here were "ravioli" of pistachio and pine nut encased in rice paper, all set in a yogurt powder. I first tried the pistachio variation, and found it creamy and tangy, with a surprisingly subtle undercurrent of nuttiness. The pine nut version was more interesting, with a particularly intriguing depth to it, but overall, the flavors didn't meld as much as I was hoping for.

Instead of going with the standard wine pairing, we opted for bottles given our large party size (a dozen people). Starting things off was the 2003 Viura, Viña Gravonia, Rioja, R. López de Heredia. I quite liked this one, finding its oxidative quality a fantastic counterpoint to the dry, nutty character of the wine. Surprisingly refreshing, with just a hint of fruit toward the back.


6: Oyster & Jamon
Next, a combo of savory ham, bright cilantro, and tangy lime segments formed a fitting complement to the inherent salinity of the Luna oyster. Particularly satisfying when taken with the paired wine.


7: Ibérico Arlette
This curious looking course was an Ibérico cracker dusted with gold and thyme. It was very light on the palate initially, with the savoriness of the ham only coming through toward the lingering finish, though I would've liked the lushness and unique character of the Jamón to have been more readily apparent here--it was a bit too subtle.


8: Cod & Honey
Cod espuma was wrapped in brik dough, then topped with a line of honey-truffle purée. This was another winner, with the earthy, unabashedly sugary nature of the condiment working wonders against the creamy, fishy base of the dish.


9: Yeye's Carrot
This faux carrot was comprised of a carrot meringue hiding a carrot-ginger sorbet, all garnished by sea grass. It was a classic pairing of the sweet-n-spicy ingredients, and I found the dissolving nature of the meringue particularly interesting here, though quite a few members of my dining party didn't care for this one at all.


10: Carrot & Coconut
Sticking with the carrot theme, here was a dish of coconut-cauliflower purée, nasturtium, coconut crisps, carrot air, and fermented carrot. It was positively fascinating, a lovely mélange of disparate textures and contrasting bright, savory, spicy, and sweet flavors that were almost Asian-y in essence when eaten together (even recalling Korean namul with one of my dining companions).

Keeping with the oxidative bent, next was the 2008 Orange Pinot Grigio, Ram, Venizia Giulia, Italy, Malina. This was to my liking as well, with a smooth, soft fruitiness to go along with the more austere flavors present.


11: Avgotaraho
Here, in a nod to the Greek mullet roe dish of the same name, we had sturgeon roe and burrata in a seared bun, topped with a sprinkle of Maldon. It was a tasty morsel, salty and heavy and satisfying, though I would've preferred a slightly lighter, smaller bun.


12: Teriyaki Rib
Just about the daintiest rib ever featured the sushi staple of kanpachi, joined by wasabi, red curry, and black sesame. It was a delectable offering, with the sweet, smoky nuances here playing well with the ocean-y flavors of the amberjack. I'd have no problem demolishing an entire rack of this!


13: Uni Mango
Arguably my favorite course of the night was this reimagined nigirizushi. We had uni, of course, over a mango sphere, with yuzukosho, cilantro flower, and nori. The key here was how the sweetness of the fruit melded flawlessly with the complementary flavors of the sea urchin, forming a complex of sugary, briny goodness that was dutifully tempered by the umami-laced relish (as well as crunch) of the seaweed on the finish. Masterful.


14: L'Eggo
Next, a throwback to my childhood favorite Legos, reinvented here as a sort of Negroni, one composed of Campari, orange, and orange zest. It was a bright, bracing bite, with a deft blend of sour and bittersweet flavors that definitely jolted the palate.


15: Chicken "Ham"
Eight-hour cured chicken was accompanied by prawn praline, figs, black garlic, and everyone's favorite, chicken skin. It was an unconventional, but effective combo, sweetish at first, with the savoriness of the bird coming through strong toward the close, all with a sort of overarching, moderating herbiness.


16: Garbanzo con Jamón
A potage of garbanzo came with jamón cream and parsley purée. I found it hearty and garlicky, with an almost ramen-like savoriness and an effective, counterbalancing zing from the parsley.

At this point, we moved on to a beer, the Imperial Black IPA, Dubhe, Urah, Uinta Brewing Co. This one was pretty cool, with plenty of dark, malty, chocolate-y flavors tempered by a great touch of hop bitterness.


17: Dark Egg
Another standout was this sort of reworked century egg, one made of a sous vided yolk spherification encased in a truffle gelatin with Parmesan, all set in an olive oil base and paired with a tableside carbonara sauce. It was all that you'd expect: rich, lush, and luxurious, with the runny goodness of that egg beautifully matched by the heady nuances from the truffle, all while the carbonara served to tie everything together. Delish.


18: Chanterelles
Chanterelles formed a natural pairing for chicken oysters, along with fennel and a mushroom cream. The heady, earthy taste of those 'shrooms made for a seamless complement to the immensely flavorful bird, all while the fennel added a wonderfully zesty foil to the dish.


19: Norwegian Lobster
Langoustine was super briny, really tasting of the ocean with a subtle sweetness to it that worked hand-in-hand with the tempering potato espuma, all while the paprika added just a tinge of spice to the dish.

Our sole red wine was the 2001 Rioja, España, Reserva Señorío de P. Peciña. This one had some nice age on it, and showed off pleasingly tart, but silky fruit notes bound by some mild tannins and a nice bit of earthiness and alcohol toward the end.


20: Spanish Octopus
Poached octopus was accompanied by piquillo, corn, aioli, guindilla pepper, and nasturtium. The tentacle tended toward mild, and I would've liked more of a savory, charred (and crisp) character to it, though the Spanish influenced flavor combinations definitely made sense.


21: Sturgeon with Sturgeon
Another favorite of mine was the sturgeon, which arrived wrapped in pancetta and topped with Almas Ara caviar and sprigs of sea grass. The fish was really a shining example of sturgeon: soft and succulent, with a wonderfully salty character to it that I found immensely satisfying. Very nice.


The lamb shank for our next course, presented tableside before being taken back to the kitchen and plated.


22: Lamb Shank
For our last savory course, sous vide lamb shank came with eggplant, yogurt, and za'atar. The meat itself was peppery and deep, with an apparent ovine relish to it, thought it really could've stood to be more tender to the bite. That being said, the smoky, creamy notes here really worked with the lamb, and I was especially fond of that yogurt.


"Philly cheesesteak" | Air bread, cheddar, Wagyu beef
At this point, we requested a supplemental course featuring The Bazaar's signature Philly cheese steak. It was hard not to like, a blast of beefy, salty, and cheesy flavors, offset just a bit by the airy nature of the crunchy bread.

To pair with the desserts, we were provided the 2008 Vidal Ice Wine, Canada, Konzelmann. It was just as you'd expect from an ice wine, coming to us viscous and sweet, with loads of stone fruit flavors joined by just a smidge of nutty goodness. Nice!


23: Japanese Baby Peaches
Our first dessert was a variation of a dish that's been on the menu since day one. The sweetness of the peaches was nicely conveyed here, expertly complemented by the savory, nutty notes from the Di Stefano burrata, brioche, and hazelnut praline. Some nice textures here, too.


24: Dragon's Breath
The omnipresent Dragon's Breath (basically a sweet, cool bite of liquid nitrogen-dipped popcorn) was as fun as ever, especially for the newbies in the group.


25: Strawberry Gazpacho
A strawberry gazpacho was tangy and sweet, a refreshing course amplified further by the vanilla, lime, and espelette notes present.


26: FlanDesert in the Desert
A bit of a substitution here: the so-called "Desert in the Desert" dessert was served to us in place of the "Flan in the Desert" advertised on the menu. What we had was a chocolate-cardamom ice cream in almond dust, dehydrated cherry, and raspberry purée. There was a lot going on, but everything definitely made sense, with a wonderful sweet spice joined by a multitude of flavors, all offset by a nice crunch to the course.


27: Milk Chocolate & Bergamot
Our final proper course comprised a milk chocolate cremeux, chocolate croquant, pistachio coulis, Greek yogurt, and mandarin oranges. This was a smart reinterpretation of the classic combo of chocolate and orange, all finished with a delightful nutty tint.


28: White Chocolate Air
29: Bubble Wrap
We concluded, fittingly, with our mignardises course. My favorites? The disintegrating white chocolate air and the sweet-nutty, pop rock-infused raspberry explosion bon bons. And to take home: The Bazaar's take on Rice Krispies treats.

It was great to revisit Saam after all this time and see how the restaurant has evolved. To me, the cooking's gotten a little less "molecular" and a bit more ingredient-focused, though the whimsical presentations and inventive flavor combinations remain. The food was as fun and tasty as I remember, and Saam's still one of the most unique dining experiences in LA to be sure. This is the type of place that should be on your bucket list.

Benu (San Francisco, CA) [2]

August 24, 2013, 8:40 pm

≫ Next: Salt Air (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Saam at The Bazaar (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Benu Restaurant
22 Hawthorne St, San Francisco, CA 94105
415.685.4860
www.benusf.com
Sat 08/24/2013, 08:40p-11:30p





My dinner at Chef Corey Lee's groundbreaking Benu last year was memorable for two reasons. First, it was arguably my best meal of 2012; and second, it marked the only occasion where I'd forgotten to bring my camera's memory card(!). Given the strength of my experience here, I couldn't let the blog stand with those subpar cell phone pics, so a revisit was in order to give the food its proper due.


Benu's sole menu option this evening was a 17-course degustation priced at $180 per head, plus $150 for the always-superb beverage pairings of Head Sommelier Yoon Ha. Click for larger versions.


1: thousand-year-old quail egg, potage, ginger
prager, grüner veltliner, federspiel, hinter der burg, wachau, austria 2011
We commenced with a course that looked humble, but was anything but. The egg itself was pretty fantastic, a spot on homage to the traditional delicacy, and went superbly with the included potage of bacon, cabbage, and cream, a hearty, comforting liquid that added a bit of heft to the surprising lightness of the pidan. The key here, though, was the use of the traditional accompaniment of ginger, which imparted a brightness that just lifted the entire dish.


2: oyster, pork belly, kimchi
prager, grüner veltliner, federspiel, hinter der burg, wachau, austria 2011
A singular Beau Soleil showed off a masterful interplay between two complementary facets of richness between the belly and the oyster, but with the bivalve always managing to shine through despite the heft of the pork. I also really appreciated the hint of kimchi spice toward the back end, too. A great little bite.


3: salmon roe, eggplant, buckwheat, perilla
matsuura, narutotai, namagenshu ginjo, tokushima, japan
Buckwheat was used to great effect here, imparting a tempering crunch to the smoky, salty combo of ikura and eggplant, while the perilla added well-placed pricks of mintiness to the fray. A harmony of disparate textures and tastes, and one that was particularly apt against the bright, racy flavors of the accompanying namazake.


4: anchovy, celery, peanut
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
Next, we began a procession of four little courses, all presented on the same transparent serving piece and paired with Hitachino's always-satisfying, somewhat-funky Red Rice Ale. The caramelized anchovy was fantastic, capturing the essence of the traditional snack and showing off a deft blend of sweet and fishy flavors that were dutifully moderated by a hit of celery zing, all while the peanut served as the perfect nutty finish.


5: faux shark's fin, dungeness crab, caviar, rousong
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
Chef Lee's famous faux shark's fin soup is off the menu (for now), but the main ingredient was put to good use here. Texturally, the "fin" was fantastic, adding a springy component to the growing intensity of flavors in the course, the sweetness of the crab masterfully offset by the subtle undercurrent of rousong savor.


6: "xo sausage" with basil curd
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
I was tempted to go Alinea-style here and eat this hands-free, but wisely decided not to. The sausage, enhanced with the qualities of the legendary XO, conveyed a very pleasing depth and savor to it, one that paired just swimmingly with the creamy, herby nuances provided by the basil.


7: acorn beggar's purse with black truffle
hitachino, red rice ale, ibaraki, japan
The last of the foursome was Benu's ode to the signature dish of 80's NYC hotspot Quilted Giraffe. Their beggar's purse came with crème fraîche and caviar, and was itself a riff on the French treat aumonieres. This version might've been even more luxurious: unabashedly savory, lush, and creamy on the palate, with a subtle, yet always apparent overtone of truffle that lasted long on the palate.


Bread, of course, was also something to behold. The multigrain variety here was wonderfully nutty, smoky even, with a delightfully crisp crust to it. However, the real star was that ginseng-honey butter, which married the zesty notes of the root with a fantastically lush sweetness that just paired with the bread beautifully.


8: almond tofu, green apple, chia seed
Our next course functioned as a sort of intermezzo, its bright, juicy flavors, herbaceous zing, and apple-y crunch providing a bit of a respite from the hefty flavors that we'd been experiencing.


9: cold noodles, pickled hearts of palm, shrimp roe, mint
von hövel, riesling kabinett, sharzhofberger, mosel, germany 2008
Pairing in stellar fashion with the vibrant acidity of the Kabinett Riesling were some of the best cold noodles I've encountered. I loved the umami-rich base of the dish, courtesy of the shrimp, a focused, almost profound thrust of ocean-y goodness that was keenly countered by the light, delicate flavors of the noodles and palm. Even better? The pin pricks of piquancy that were enabled by the use of ginger and mint. I wouldn't have minded going through a big bowl of the stuff!


10: lobster coral xiao long bao
duchesse de bourgogne, flemish red brown ale, belgium
Next, we come to what has become perhaps Lee's most well-known dish, a masterful homage to the humble xiaolongbao. It was just so utterly, ridiculously xiang, an umami explosion (both literally and figuratively) with an incredible depth to it that satisfies in the basest ways possible. I'm not sure if I liked 'em with or without the vinegar (a wonderful foil to the paired Duchesse, by the way), but no matter, I'd love to demolish a whole bamboo basket of these beauties.


11: pig's head with lentil hozön and bönji
duchesse de bourgogne, flemish red brown ale, belgium
Also fantastic with the Duchesse was this schmancy souse, its stupendously porcine quality joined by countervailing hits of ferment-y, tangy, and sweet flavors, the result of the hozon and bonji now being produced by Momofuku frontman David Chang. Perhaps the best head cheese I've ever had.


12: whiting, crispy mushroom, haiga rice, burdock, charred scallion
cuilleron, marsanne, les vignes d'á côté, rhône, france 2012
The whiting, surprisingly, just might've been my favorite course of the evening. The thing that struck me most about the fish was its texture, which I'd describe as firm, but springy, with an almost gelatinous quality to it that I found immensely satisfying. On the palate, it was delicate, nuanced, and really took on the mouthwateringly savory flavors of the accompanying rice, while the scallion added a fantastic jolt of smoke and astringency to the mix. And those mushrooms? Some of the best I've had--perfect.


13a: roast quail, lettuce heart, mustard
cristom, pinot noir, sommer's reserve, willamette valley, oregon 2011
Getting into the more substantial courses now, quail was roasted beautifully, showing off two distinct, yet complementary facets of the bird in flawlessly done breast and leg presentations. Adding to this was a subtle undertone of sweetness that worked out really well, emphasizing the savory qualities of the quail, while the lettuce imparted a fantastically light, charred, counterbalancing quality to the dish. Delish.


13b: 25 head Kippin abalone from Iwate, 2008, potato purée, tender kale, braising jus [$230 supplement]
el maestro sierra, oloroso sherry, jerez, spain
In place of the quail, diners also had the option of Kippin abalone from Japan's Iwate prefecture, oft considered some of the best in the world. Priced at $230 a pop, it was costlier than the entire rest of the menu, and quite easily the most expensive single dish I've had. The awabi was of the 2008 vintage, and was prepared by braising in a stock of chicken feet and pork neck for 18 hours. The result of all this was the best cooked abalone I've had--meaty and a bit gelatinous to the bite, with a great growing depth and complexity to it that was tempered in part by the potato and greens present. Also of note here was the wine pairing, with the Oloroso coming to us nutty and oxidative, and also super dry on the palate. What was interesting was how the Sherry seemed to become sweeter upon being paired with the mollusk.


14: beef braised in pear juice and charcoal-grilled, lily bulb, sunflower, fermented pepper
clos st. jean, châteauneuf-du-pape, rhône, france 2008
Next, Brandt beef was braised overnight, resulting in a dish that one of my dining companions likened to an "elevated galbi." Texturally, the meat was tender, but not mushy, with still some structure to it, while its dark, bovine flavors worked faultlessly with the sweet-ish sauce and the whisper of spice toward the back end. The lily bulb served to balance out the sheer heft of the meat, and what I liked even more was the use of sunflower seed, which acted as a fantastic accent piece with its nuttiness and crunch.


15: shellfish consommé and raft, Jinhua ham, chrysanthemum
blandy's, verdelho, madeira, portugal 1968
Benu's famed "shark's fin soup" may be off the menu now, but its rather profound broth was put to good use here, serving as a complement to the intensely ocean-y, briny flavors of the shellfish, while the whole shebang concluded with a delightfully peppery tint on the close. The wine pairing here was spot on too, the '68 Madeira conveying a surprisingly youthful exuberance with its trademark oxidative, nutty, and raisin-y qualities.


16: sake lees sherbet, strawberry, yuzu
The sweet stuff at Benu is now the charge of new Pastry Chef Courtney Schmidig, who comes to the restaurant from The French Laundry and replaces Christopher Bleidorn (who went to Atelier Crenn). She got off to a strong start here with this deceptively simple dessert. I adored how the funky, earthy, yet saccharine notes of the kasu was conveyed, set against the sweetness of strawberry with just a smidge of yuzu tang on the midpalate.


17: sesame white cake with salted plum
uroulat, jurançon, southwest france 2011
Let's just say that we were all a bit shocked when an honest-to-goodness, old-school cake was placed on the table for our main dessert. It was a bit dissonant given the hypermodern aesthetic at Benu, but the contrast was pure genius, and we all appreciated the communal aspect here, of slicing and serving the cake to each other "family style." Concept aside, the cake was pretty damn good. The plum, however, really took it to the next level, imparting a salty/sour component that really worked wonders with the sweetness here. I'd love this in a larger size as a birthday cake!

Once again, Benu managed to impress, delivering a virtually flawless meal that showcased Chef Lee's deft hand in marrying his contemporary leanings with Asia's vast culinary playbook. The food effectively conveys and honors those traditions, but never verges on trite or contrived, utilizing just the right amount of modernist flair in the process. At the same time, deliciousness was never compromised, and the comforting, cozy flavors that one expects are present in all their glory, with only occasional dalliances in the overtly cerebral. And, as expected, beverage pairings were spot on as well, really linking up with the cooking in creative and effective ways. The Benu team is doing some great work here, and I'm looking forward to see where they all take this. Time for three stars?

Salt Air (Los Angeles, CA)

September 5, 2013, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Atelier Crenn (San Francisco, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Benu (San Francisco, CA) [2]

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Salt Air Restaurant
1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd, Venice, CA 90291
310.396.9333
www.saltairvenice.com
Thu 09/05/2013, 08:00p-11:20p





Back a few years ago, 1616 Abbot Kinney was home to Capri, an Italian spot that was, by all accounts, pretty horrible. However, the address was brought back to life in December 2011 with the opening of Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga's much-lauded Wolf in Sheep's Clothing pop-up. The two eventually launched The Hart and The Hunter, leaving the space in the hands of Kevin Kathman's AK Supper Club (interestingly, Kathman would go on to helm the second incarnation of WiSC at Lilly's), and then Benadicto Gell's Cal-Dominican Mangu. All this time, though, the building was actually under the control of Dave Reiss, whom you might know from A-Frame, Sunny Spot, and littlefork. He had plans all along to rework the location into a new concept, and finally partnered with Carol Ann and Moise Emquies to debut Salt Air on June 21st this year.

Running the kitchen here is New Yorker Greg A. Daniels, not to be confused with Greg Daniels of Haven Gastropub fame. The Buffalo area native began his culinary career at Frosty's, his family's ice cream shop, then attended the French Culinary Institute in Manhattan. Following graduation, he cooked at Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Perry St, working his way up to an executive sous chef position. Daniels was slated to move to Vongerichten's eponymous flagship eatery, but instead ended up relocating to Los Angeles to be with his girlfriend, so here we are.


As far as Salt Air's menu goes, it's a blend of familiar seafood classics as well as some more unconventional dishes such as the oft-talked about fish skin chips. To drink, you'll find cocktails from Brian Butler (though note that there's no full bar here), as well as a pretty nice selection of beers, wines, and even non-alcoholic libations. Click for larger versions.


Tonic [$11.00] | bonal, lemongrass, ginger, tonic
Shandy [$11.00] | sour beer, passionfruit, honey, lemon
Naturally, we had to try all the cocktails on the menu, and first up was the Tonic. Based on Bonal, the drink conveyed a sort of herby, medicinal, but soft bittersweetness to it that went nicely with the ginger-y notes present. The Shandy, meanwhile, incorporated gueuze, giving it a great tart, funky, acidic quality with just a whisper of countervailing sweetness--nice!


Oysters [$26.00/full dozen] | east and west coast oysters, mignonette, cocktail sauce, horseradish, hot sauce, lemon
Oysters were a natural beginning to the meal, with three varieties on offer. First were the Sweet Petites from Martha's Vineyard (the Chef's favorite), which I found surprisingly full-flavored, with a particularly briny finish laced with just a modicum of sweetness. Even more intense were the Sunberry Points from Prince Edward Island (my first time with 'em), while the Wellfleets were the heftiest and largest of the trio, with the most pronounced salinity.


Grilled Octopus [$14.00] | beluga lentils, pickled onion, chorizo
I do love my octopus, and Salt Air's was a prime presentation of the cephalopod. It was beautifully prepared, coming out tender, yet substantial, with a subtle sweetness and a great char bitterness to it. What made this dish for me, though, were the accompaniments, the onions adding a tanginess on the back end, while the chorizo contributed an underlying heat to things. I appreciated the lentils here as well, which imparted an earthy, weighty quality that grounded the course. A table favorite, and one of the best octopus dishes I've had in a while.


Pea Toast [$11.00] | ricotta, pea leaves, caramelized onions
Pea toast is probably something you want to order, with its creamy sweetness (courtesy of the ricotta-onion combo) lending a lushness to the dish that was gorgeously balanced by the brightness of the peas.


Cobbler [$11.00] | peychaud bitters, carpano, hibiscus, lemon, orange
High Ball [$11.00] | cardamaro, lime, house ginger beer, forbidden bitters
Time for more cocktails. The Cobbler was a great rendition of the old-school drink, with a rich base of sweet spice joined by a bevy of delectably tart, fruity flavors. I also really enjoyed the High Ball, with its refreshing, ginger-y base playing off of the aromatic, cinnamon-y nuances from the bitters and the slightly oxidative quality of the amaro.


Fish Skin Chips [$6.00] | smoked onion dip, harissa
Next, we come to perhaps the most bandied-about item on Salt Air's menu: the baked-fried salmon skins. They were salty and briny, sort of like what you'd imagine a fish chicharrón to be like, but with a very delicate consistency. I quite liked the chips on their own, but the harissa and smoky/sweet onion dip had their place, too.


Lobster Roll [$20.00] | connecticut style, scallion, corn relish, potato chips
I don't know if the lobster roll is the new ahi tuna tartar or what, but it seems to be popping up on menus left and right these days. Salt Air's hot rendition is certainly worthy of consideration, with the crustacean arriving warm, utterly buttery, and almost uncommonly sweet--its sugary character only bolstered by the inclusion of corn--while the scallion served to temper the dish (just a bit). And the potato crisps? Salty and spot on.


Fried Oysters [$13.00] | pretzel crusted, frisee, miso mustard
I've had fried oysters before, but never like this. They come coated in pretzel bits, making for a fun, unabashedly crunchy eating experience that did a great job recalling the classic combo of pretzels and mustard. Definitely give these a shot.


Spritz [$11.00] | cocchi americano, dolin blanc, grapefruit bitters, prosecco
Sour [$11.00] | byrrh, punt e mes, strawberry, lemon, demerara
Our third round of cocktails started with the Spritz, a bubbly, citrus-y concoction with a great hit of light, herbaceous, refreshing bitterness from the Cocchi and Dolin. The Sour, on the other hand, was akin to a boozy strawberry juice, with the sugariness of the fruit deftly played against the complexity of Byrrh and vermouth.


House Salad [$8.00] | little gem, endive, avocado, radish, fines herbes, mustard vinaigrette
The generically-named House Salad wasn't much to look at, but the flavors were on point. All the elements actually came together really nicely here--a mélange of textures and tastes, expertly tied together by that tangy dressing.


Carrot & Fennel Salad [$9.00] | kale, quinoa, basil vinaigrette
Our next salad was a bit more ambitious, but not quite as successful. Carrots imparted a pleasant sweetness and crunch to the course, and the kale made sense too, but the quinoa was just a tad discordant, distracting even at times. There were also inedible parts (twigs and whatnot) in the salad, which were vexing.


Olive Oil Poached Salmon [$21.00] | heirloom shelling beans, shishito peppers
At this point, we moved into the mains, specifically the poached salmon. It was a perfect presentation of the fish, the filet coming out still slightly rare and beautifully flaky, with a hint of fattiness to it that went swimmingly with its lush, ocean-y flavors, countered just barely by the bright nuances of the herbs and veggies. If that wasn't enough, I also appreciated the slight tinge of heat from the shishitos, as well as how the beans added a noticeable, moderating heft to the dish. A highlight of the meal for sure.


Whole Fish [$39.00] | fried red snapper
No doubt, the pièce de résistance this evening was the whole snapper, which was coated in flour, fried, garnished with pickled Fresno peppers and scallion, then filleted at the table by our server. It really was one of the tastiest tais I've had, the fish coming out juicy and flavorful, with a delightfully crisp skin and a palpable Asian-y tint to it.


Tiki [$11.00] | angostura bitters, rosa americano, orgeat, lime, pineapple
Our final drink was the Tiki, which, as the name implies, conveyed the tropically sweet, spicy flavors that you'd expect, all over a great base of Cocchi Americano Rosa. Splendid.


Chocolate Cake [$8.00]
Moving on to dessert now, the requisite chocolate cake was nothing to sneeze at, with the richness of the cake nicely balanced by countervailing thrusts of bitterness and smoke.


Peach Cream Poundcake [$8.00]
I was quite fond of the poundcake, which I found surprisingly light, with its subtle sweetness pairing well with the juicy notes of the peach, all while the cream added a great touch of levity to the fray. Beautifully balanced and integrated.


Monkey Bread [$8.00]
We ended with Salt Air's signature dessert, the Monkey Bread. It was as sticky and sweet as it looked, with a caramel-y, cinnamon-y quality to it joined by just a bit of savory flair from the nuts. A must try.

Sure, it would've been nice if WiSC stuck around, but I'm quite happy with its eventual replacement. Daniels' cooking really livens up the area's dining scene I think. He brings a blend of the familiar and the new, effectively taking the skills he acquired under Jean-Georges and translating them to fit the aesthetics of an eclectic seafood joint. It's a combination that works well for me, and, combined with the commendable cocktails (which give the liquorless concoctions at Scratch|Bar a run for their money), makes for a great new dining option on Abbot Kinney.

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Atelier Crenn (San Francisco, CA) [2]

September 11, 2013, 8:10 pm

≫ Next: Go's Mart (Canoga Park, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Salt Air (Los Angeles, CA)

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Atelier Crenn
3127 Fillmore St, San Francisco, CA 94123
415.440.0460
www.ateliercrenn.com
Fri 08/23/2013, 08:10p-01:10a



My first meal at Dominique Crenn's self-titled eatery--not too long after the place opened--was quite the experience to behold, arguably my best meal of 2011. At the end of that dinner, I predicted Michelin stars for the restaurant, and, not surprisingly, that prognostication came to fruition in 2012 when Crenn got the deuce. Given the strength of my last meal, I was curious to pay Atelier another visit, to see how the place had progressed in the intervening years.


Atelier Crenn's menu format has changed slightly since my last visit. There's now a Signature Menu at $95 along with a ~14 course Chef's Grand Tasting Menu at $180 (the one you want to get), plus $150 a head for wine pairings from Sommelier Ian Burrows. Click for a larger version.


Before the meal, we enjoyed all three beers on Crenn's list. First was the Divine Brewing Co. 'Engelen Tarwe' Triple Ale, Sonoma, California [$10], a slightly skunky, spicy, sour-ish ale with a soft undercurrent of fruit. Its sister beer, the Divine Brewing Co. 'Teufelweizen' Bock-Style Ale, Sonoma, California [$10], showed off a ridiculous amount of head (see photo), and was even better, with a smooth, dark, roasty, chocolate-y character to it that I quite liked. Finally, we sampled the De Ryck 'Special Belge', Belgium [$7], a steely, crisp, dry ale with a pleasant yeasty quality and just a touch of hop bitterness.


1: Kir Breton[Summer has come with its warm breeze]
We commenced with Crenn's signature amuse bouche, a reimagined take on the classic Kir Breton. Apple cider arrived encased in a crème de cassis-topped sphere of white chocolate and cocoa butter, the shell disintegrating near-instantly upon contact with the tongue, unleashing torrents of tart apple flavors that then transitioned to the sugary sweetness of the chocolate. Fun, as well as effective, a great harbinger of things to come.


Oyster leaves were zesty little jolts to the palate, really recalling the essence of its namesake bivalve and thus setting the stage wonderfully for our next course...


2: Uni, Caviar, Licorice[Mellow serenades of colors licorice, nature and orange]
Riesling Kabinett 2011, Zilliken 'Rausch', Mosel Valley
...And what a course! Sea urchin torchon was paired with caviar and licorice root, then enveloped in yuzu bubbles. The tang of the citrus was strong on the nose, but transitioned seamlessly to the rich brine of the uni and salty kick of the roe, all while licorice added an almost ethereal spiciness to the dish.


In lieu of bread service, we were instead presented charred buckwheat crackers, smoky and crunchy to the bite.


3: Squid, Iberico, Lardo[Where the broad ocean leans against the Spanish land.]
Gruner Veltliner 2011, Hirsch 'Heiligenstein', Kamptal
Noodles of Japanese squid were fantastic, supple to the bite and mild, but beautifully augmented by the one-two punch of lardo and ibérico, an unabashedly salty, savory duo that melded wonderfully with the heady, integrating truffle broth. One of the highlights of the dinner for me, and a perfect pairing to the accompanying Grüner Veltliner, which itself showed off some delightfully earthy, truffle-y notes as well. Awesome.


4: Shima Aji, Coconut, Cilantro[A gentle smell, oceanic, of yummy feeling]
Sake, Wakatake 'Demon Slayer', Shizuoko
Cured shima aji was another winner, and quite possibly the best rendition of the ingredient I've ever experienced. The fish alone was uncompromisingly clean, delicate, with a subtle brine that went perfectly with the bright cilantro and coconut flavors present--think a distinctly Southeast Asian tinge accented by just a smidge of pepper-y heat. What took this over the top, though, were the tempura'd veggies, which imparted a fantastic savoriness and crunch to the dish that just brought everything together gorgeously. Lovely pairing here too with the Onigoroshi, a smooth, viscous junmai daiginjo with delicious floral-fruity notes on the nose and a creeping bit of alcoholic burn on the back end.


5: Shellfish, Sweetbreads, Phytoplankton[Sitting on top of the dune, feeling of beach sand under my toes]
Chardonnay 2010, Failla 'Estate', Sonoma Coast
This bisque-like potage was another homage to the flavors of Brittany, a part of France that the Chef visited often as a child. It was a mélange of razor clam, Manila clam, pork belly, sweetbreads, and bone marrow dumplings, all accompanied by sea grapes, plankton gel, and a tomato water air. I found it a masterful presentation of the clams' multifaceted brine, paired in genius fashion with the heady, earthy nuances from the offal, while the seaweed offered up a tempering crunch. Hearty and cozy, a great complement to the rich, buttery, grassy Chard that came with.


6: Charred Onion Soup, Comte, Truffle[The half moon, silky and smoky]
Oloroso VORS 1/14, El Maestro Sierra, Jerez
Next up was Crenn's take on the ubiquitous French onion soup. It was classic in essence, with the sweetness of the onion marmalade working hand-in-hand with the Comté dumpling and the slightly smoky notes present, all while an apple cider vinaigrette provided an overarching tartness to the dish that really tied everything together. I was especially fond of the bright, herb-y nuances in the dish, and the paired brioche made for a fitting accoutrement, too.


7: Rhubarb & Ash[Woody and stone]
Here was another whimsical course, sort of a palate cleanser after the intensity of the preceding dishes. We had here a liquid fennel and citrus consommé encased in a stone-like shell, a sweet, tangy explosion of flavors imbued with just a hint of medicinal twang. Sitting below the "rocks" were thin chips that recalled candied ginger.


8: Grains & Seeds, Sturgeon, Dashi[Nature rejoice, chasing childhood memories]
Gewurztraminer, Arista 'Ferrington', Anderson Valley, California
Humble ingredients were the star of the show here--flax seeds, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, quinoa--but they were presented in simply amazing fashion. They were either toasted, roasted, smoked, or fried, and accompanied by trout roe, white sturgeon roe cream, and yuzukosho, all set in a dashi broth. There was just such an incredible depth and profoundness to the seeds, their earthy, nutty savors perfectly balanced by the blasts of salinity from the sturgeon and trout, while herbaceous whispers added a modicum of lightness to the mix. The flavors here were wonderful, but taken with the fantastic textural interplay and hot-cold contrasts in the dish, we have here my favorite course of the night, and quite possibly the best thing I've eaten all year.


9: Fermented Wagyu, Broccoli, Egg Yolk[Wrapped in a yellow blanket]
Cabernet Franc 2012, Lieu Dit, Santa Ynez Valley
Crenn's riff on steak tartar didn't quite reach the lofty heights of the preceding course, but was still one of the strongest preparations of the dish I've had. Wagyu was commingled with sesame and broccoli fermented in sake lees, then rolled in an egg yolk sheet and garnished with a scallion salad. Taken alone, the beef showed off a superb spiciness and earthy depth, with a lovely touch of pepper on the finish. What really made this for me, however, was the scallion, which imparted just a wonderful, offsetting astringency to things that served as the exclamation point. I found this very nice with the paired wine--a bright, perfume-y, utterly vivacious Cab Franc--as well.


10: Mushroom, Pine, Pumpernickel[Walking deep in the woods, as the earth might have something to spare]
Pinot Noir 2007, JK Carriere, Willamette Valley
Arguably the most popular dish at Atelier Crenn, we had here an amalgam of roasted, pickled, and dehydrated mushrooms, Douglas pine meringue, wood sorrel oil, sage, and hazelnut praline, all dusted with pumpernickel-brioche crumbs. It was a complex, multi-angled exploration of earthy, woody flavors, played against the countervailing sweet and bitter thrusts present, with the pine serving as the overarching, integrating force in the dish.


I noticed that the table beside us was given a superior presentation of the preceding dish, replete with logs in place of the generic plates. That's too bad.


11: Duck, Chocolate, Corn[Birth which gives its morning mystery.]
Brachetto 2012, Sottimano 'Maté', Piedmont
Next was perhaps the most high-concept plate of the evening. We had what I believe was a duck liver pâté underneath a "nest" of corn silk, with puffed rice, pear, apple, vanilla, and finished with porcini-dusted chocolate "twigs," all with a cup of canard consommé on the side. It was a real celebration of duck, with the earthy essence of the bird pairing surprisingly well with its various accoutrements, the sugariness of the chocolate working particularly well as a foil. A bit cerebral, and perfectly washed down by the incredible depth of that consommé.


12: Squab, Summer Squash, Red Currant[Where birds sing and are causing ripples in the nearby water]
Mourvedre Blend 2006, Gros Noré, Bandol
Our final savory course of the evening gave us a smoked-seared squab with squash, mustard, rose, hibiscus, and currant. The bird was as delicious as it looked, with a mouth-watering salt and savor to it that was duly brightened by the crunchy bits of squash here, all while the rose-hibiscus-currant combo imparted a wonderful floral-fruity component to the dish. Excellent counterpoint from the mustard, too.


13: "Salad"[Dotting the fragrant flora]
Traditionally, a salad serves as an intermezzo before dessert in a formal French meal, so we were presented a sort of a deconstructed version here, combining various herbs and flowers in a vinaigrette-Banyuls-olive oil dressing. The bite was sweet, tangy, with a strong celery component, though it didn't quite click for me.



We opted for a cheese course, which turned out to be a surprisingly pricey proposition at $12.50 per slice. The fromages themselves were spot on, though. We had: Petit Pardou, a four-month-aged Pyrenean varietal; the mild Catalonian goat's milk favorite Garrotxa; the peppery Montenebro, my favorite of the bunch; a delightfully mushroom-y Tomme de Crayeuse; a tangy sheep's milk cheese that I didn't catch the name of; a classically sharp Bleu d'Auvergne; and finally an herby Basque cheese which I don't recall the name of either. Accompaniments were a wild flower honey and chickpea crackers, and we also enjoyed glasses of the Marsala Superiore - DeBartoli 'La Vigna Miccia' [$18] to go along.


Our first pre-dessert was almost verging on Alinea-esque, comprising a test tube of guava consommé, chia, shiso, and finger lime, along with a tab of lemongrass-infused sugarcane. Think fun and fruity, with bursts of tartness from the finger lime vesicles to go along with the sheer sweetness of the cane.


Next were Crenn's trademark eucalyptus ice cream pops, this time incorporating menthol. They were even more bracing, more refreshing than before, with an herby sweetness at first giving way to a cool, minty astringency toward the finish.


14: Grape, Hazelnut[Summer has come and is full of sweet surprises]
Jurançon, Möelleux 2011, Clos Uroulat, Gascony
Set in a custom made bisected wine bottle was our main dessert, courtesy of Chef Patissier Juan Contreras. It contained hazelnut ice cream encased in grape skin, Port foam, fresh grape, and baguette with sultanas, all drizzled with saba syrup that was cleverly hidden in a faux cork. The dish served as an exploration of the many faces of grape, and when taken with the hazelnut, made for a tasting experience that was sort of like a cross between a PB&J and a Ferrero Rocher, with a palpable vinous quality to it. I would've liked a bit less bittersweetness here though, so that more of the fruity aspects of the grape could've shown through.


Finally, mignardises arrived in a rather striking serving vessel (replete with moss garden), and consisted of Maldon sea salt caramels, passion fruit marshmallows, strawberry-pink peppercorn pâtes de fruits, almond-pistachio nougats, coffee-milk chocolate ganache "berries" (my favorite), and sesame-chocolate crisps.

Once again, Atelier Crenn is poised to be one of the very top meals of the year, no doubt serving up some of my best bites of 2013. It's obvious that Crenn has grown even more as a chef, with her food coming across as less explicitly "artsy," but just and complex and high-concept. Even better, the cooking's bolder, more confident, while flavors tend toward more intense, more strident, and more focused in general. There really are some great things going in the kitchen here these days, so that next macaron doesn't seem that far out of reach now.

Go's Mart (Canoga Park, CA) [2]

September 15, 2013, 4:30 pm

≫ Next: EMC Seafood & Raw Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Atelier Crenn (San Francisco, CA) [2]

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Go's Mart Sushi
22330 Sherman Way, Los Angeles, CA 91303
818.704.1459
Sun 08/25/2013, 04:30p-07:25p





One of LA's best, and certainly most unique sushi joints is also one of the most out-of-the-way. I'd first visited Go's Mart way back in 2007 after coming down from a dinner at The French Laundry. Despite the strength of that experience, I'd stayed away all this time due to the considerable drive out to Canoga, and as a result, our meal here once again came on the back of another BayArea trip.

An interesting note is that the VHS video rental aspect of Go's seems to be no longer, unsurprisingly given the advent of DVD, Blu-ray, and video-on-demand. However, Go-san's right-hand man Oscar is still at it here after 14 years (keep in mind that the placed opened circa 1997), though his other assistant Lino has seemingly been let go, replaced by a young guy named Tomás.


As far as Go's Mart's menu is concerned, the standard selections are fairly mundane, so clearly the way to go is to sit at the counter and order the omakase, drawn largely from the specials board and totaling $171.50 a head this evening. To drink, think an unremarkable selection of sake and beer (though I hear there's no corkage...). And yes, the check was presented on a Post-it note (charming). Click for a larger version.


Speaking of sake, we began with a bottle of the Kikusui Junmai Ginjo [$35], a commonplace, but very approachable brew that was viscous in consistency, with a strong melon character over a base of koji notes and a trace of alcoholic burn.


1: Salmon & Cucumber
Our first course brought together cucumber, sesame, and smoked salmon in commendable fashion, the heady, hefty flavors of the fish balanced by the bright, crunchy veggie, all while the sesame imparted a lovely nuttiness that overarched the entire dish.


2a: Suzuki [$7.00]
We moved right into the nigiri with this foursome. Sea bass was delightful, silky in texture, with a delicate taste that melded seamlessly with the truffle and lemon notes present, all while the back end was awash in the clean, minty essence of shiso.


2b: Kinmedai [$7.00]
The golden eye snapper (a.k.a. splendid alfonsino) was even better, with a meatier consistency and a more assertive flavor profile. Delish, and my favorite of the four here.


2c: Managatsuo [$8.00]
Butterfish was, as the name would imply, the lushest of the bunch, with a nice citrus counterpoint and a strong kick of wasabi on the finish.


2d: Kanpachi [$6.00]
Finally, the amberjack was the firmest, the crunchiest of the quartet, with the sweetest flesh and a subtle bit of shiso brightness toward the end.


3a: Kuromaguro [$3.00]
Next, we were presented a trio of different tuna preparations. First was the blue fin, a great preparation of the sushi staple with a good depth to it and a smart hit of garlic on the midpalate, while its finish was all about that wasabi burn.


3b: Kawagishi Toro
Here was a version of toro that I've only encountered here at Go's. Its basically tuna flesh that's scraped from the bone, resulting in a sort of paste-like consistency with no sinew at all--chewing wasn't even required. Mixed with soy sauce, it was rich and dark, with the crunch and astringency of the onion serving as a fitting foil.


3c: Toro [$10.00]
The toro proper was of medium fattiness, undeniably tasty with a bit of chew to it and a nice wasabi element to balance things out.


4a: Ebi [$8.50]
One the standouts for me was the blue shrimp, which arrived wonderfully snappy in texture, with a superb char character and salty kick from the caviar that went along beautifully with the savory-sweet flavors of the shrimp. Nice bit of wasabi zing here, too.


4b: Tarabagani [$10.00]
King crab was spot on: tender, sweet, and cool, with just a whisper of truffle goodness that paired in stellar fashion with the lingering salinity of the crustacean.


4c: Zuwaigani [$8.00]
Snow crab was similarly on point, arriving juicy and sweet, with a delightful consistency to it and a great touch of wasabi to focus the flavors.


4d: Uni [$6.00]
Go-san humorously referred to this as "Santa Barbara peanut butter," and he wasn't far off the mark with that description. It was a delectable presentation of uni, its creamy, sweet nature on proud display against the subtle truffle nuances in the course, all while salt added pleasing jolts of saline goodness on the palate.


5: Shrimp Head
The head of the shrimp above was then presented to us in fried form, a crispy, crunchy, utterly delicious course that showed off an almost instant ramen-like savor to it.


6a: Aji [$7.00]
Next, a duet of oily fish. Spanish mackerel was a shining example of the style, light and bright, with a growing fishiness along with an apparent sweetness from the goji berry.


6b: Saba [$6.00]
Meanwhile, the saba mackerel was much fuller flavored, and firmer in body, with a long, lingering brine offset by the use of ginger.


7a: Benizake
Sockeye was our first of two salmons, and was pretty amazing, with a great interplay between the truffle and the inherent fattiness of the fish, all while salt and wasabi added further points of interest to the course.


7b: Sake no Kunsei
Smoked king salmon was also to my liking, its woody, hammy savor working flawlessly with the moderating bitterness of the onion.


8: Ikura [$8.00]
Ikura was smooth and buttery, probably the lushest presentation I've had of the roe, but also showed off a smoky, saline character as well.


9a: Mirugai [$6.00]
Seared geoduck was lovely, with a great mix of crunchy yet supple textures and a focused brine that was dutifully offset by the burn of wasabi.


9b: Awabi [$5.00]
Baby abalone was great texturally, with a supple, yet satisfying bite to it and a veil of truffle-y flavors that made this one of the most unique presentations of awabi sushi I've had.


10: Ankimo [$5.00]
Go-san's monkfish liver was some of the most approachable I'd ever encountered, with a tangy sweetness initially that lead smoothly to the creamy, liver-y notes toward the finish.


11a: Anago [$6.50]
Sea eel was deep and dark, with a commixture of sweet and savory flavors that just worked.


11b: Unagi [$6.50]
The freshwater eel, on the other hand, was fattier, more luxurious, with a crispiness to it and a palpable, citrus-y, offsetting tang.


12: Watarigani no Temaki [$9.00]
The requisite blue crab hand roll was just as sweet, cool, and creamy as you'd expect, but with the added benefit of truffle, which added an almost intoxicating overtone to the course.


Supplement: Okoze [$7.00]
At this point, the set omakase was pretty much over, so we ordered a couple more courses to round things out. First was the okoze, which I'd actually never encountered before. Go-san called it a sculpin, though stonefish appears to be the more common translation. In any case, it was really quite nice, wonderful texturally with a subtle sweetness that paired well with the lemon-y and yuzukosho notes present.


Supplement: Seki Aji [$7.00]
Seki aji's a special brand of the fish caught only from Japan's Bungo Channel, and is a real treat at sushi restaurants. The mackerel was light and delicate on the palate, with a tempering brightness from the shiso and a nice bit of wolfberry sweetness. It tasted pretty similar to the aji above, though.


Supplement: Hirame no Kobujime [$5.00]
Our last fish was a kelp-treated flounder done in the kobujime style. The result of the process was a denser, more complex tasting fish, one that went just swimmingly with salty-spicy flavors of the yuzukosho here.


Supplement: "Holy Cow" [$10.00]
We ended our savories with some beef sushi, which was as tasty and savory as you'd expect, with a fantastic lingering spice to it. However, I really would've preferred the meat rarer, so that I could've better appreciated it texturally.


13: Fruit Plate
Dessert comprised a simple plate of fruit, a sweet, refreshing close to the evening.

This meal really was a reminder of how good Go's can be. Certainly, the Chef's liberal use of truffle, salt, citrus, shiso, and other accoutrements may not be for everybody. Some may complain about authenticity even. Sure, I get it. I appreciate having the fish stand alone just as much as anyone else, but the little flourishes here really make the sushi some of the most interesting around, and really point toward Go-san's unorthodox, irreverent style. That's really what makes the place special, and one of the real gems of the SFV. Sushi fiends, Go's needs to be on your bucket list.

EMC Seafood & Raw Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

September 19, 2013, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: Girasol (Studio City, CA)

≪ Previous: Go's Mart (Canoga Park, CA) [2]

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EMC Seafood & Raw Bar
3500 W 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
213.351.9988
www.emcseafood.com
Thu 09/12/2013, 07:45p-10:55p



The latest sensation to hit K-Town follows in the footsteps of the numerous seafood-centric eateries that have debuted in recent times (I'm looking at you Littlefork, Fishing with Dynamite, Connie & Ted's, Salt Air, and the new Water Grill). Yes, EMC takes over the site of the old Maitreya in the City Center on 6th complex, and is the product of partners Ellis Choi, brothers Marcus and Michael Kwan, and Charles Hung Jr., hence the name (think about it). The place debuted in July, and has been making quite a name for itself since then, especially in the Asian-American community.

A bit of background: Ka Wai "Michael" Kwan and Ka Kue "Marcus" Kwan are the duo behind Le Ka and the various Wokcanos, as well as the lesser known Backhouse, Green Hut Cafe, and Bunker Hill Bar & Grill. Together with Merrill Lynch wealth manager Kerry Moy, they form the M2K Group (again with the acronyms). The Kwan brothers also run Qpack, a restaurant packaging company, and have had a hand in the ill-fated Tatou (Hell's Kitchen Season 1 winner Michael Wray's spot) and the unfortunately-named Wok on Fire. I will also have to note that this dinner ended up being comped. That wasn't the expectation going in (as I rarely attend such meals), but one of my dining companions was acquainted with some of the owners, so that's how it turned out.


EMC's menu features a smattering of expected entries from the tried-and-true seafood playbook, but with a distinctly Asian slant, not to mention a number of straight-up O.G. Asian dishes. Click for larger versions.


To drink, think classically-leaning cocktails by Andrew Parish, as well as the requisite beer and a surprisingly decent wine list. Click for larger versions.


Whilsner [$12.00] | Whiskey, Amaro Ciociaro, Lemon Juice, Lemon Essence, Pilsner
Old Fashioned [$14.00] | B&E Bourbon, Maraschino Liqueur, Angostura, & Orange Bitters
The Whilsner was a fantastic way to begin the evening, with its pleasantly bittersweet, herby flavors and citrus-y zing working beautifully with the Macallan 12, all while the nuances of the beer were delightfully fleeting. The barrel-aged Old Fashioned was another winner, a smart take on the classic drink with maraschino in place of sugar or simple syrup. I found it very well balanced, with the slightly puckering qualities of the liqueur coming through toward the back end.


Naked Cowboy (Long Island, NY) [$19.00] | Served with Cocktail Sauce, Lime Jalapeño, & Horseradish
Oysters were a natural first course, and the Naked Cowboys fit the bill nicely, coming in relatively substantial to the bite, with a strong salinity and a particularly lingering, mineral-laced finish.


Crispy Garlic Brussels Sprouts [$6.00]
Given my penchant for Brussels sprouts, these were a must try, and did not disappoint, really showcasing the astringent, savory qualities of the vegetable along with a lovely Asian-y tinge courtesy of the sesame. Nice texture on 'em, too.


Mini Lobster Roll [$8.00] | Tarragon Butter, Sea Salt, Brioche Bun
The lobster roll seems to be the de facto "gotta order" dish on seafood menu these days, and EMC's certainly made a case for itself. The crustacean arrived soft, springy, and very buttery, with a palpable sweetness to the flesh that worked hand-in-hand with the similar notes in the brioche. A nice take on the hot "Connecticut-style."


Black Pepper Beef Mignon [$14.00] | Chunks of Tender Beef Quick-Stirred with Onion in a Rich Roasted Black Pepper Sauce
Our sole meat course of the night recalled the "French style beef" that one finds at some Chinese places. I found it quite satisfying, with the tenderloin coming out tender and tasty, the peppery sauce serving as a fitting complement to the protein.


Uni Pasta [$18.00] | Cream, Fish Roe, Chives, Dried Seaweed
The über of-the-moment sea urchin pasta was nicely done here, the creamy, somewhat garlicky noodles dutifully enhanced by the lush, ocean-y sweetness of the uni, all while seaweed added further blasts of umami to the dish.


Whiskey Flip [$12.00] | Rye Whiskey, Byrrh Grand Quinquina, Orange Juice, Lemon Juice, Sugar, Egg
The Boulevardier [$14.00] | B&E Bourbon, Campari, Carpano Antica
Time for more cocktails. I quite liked the Whiskey Flip, finding it very well integrated and delightfully frothy, with the sweet-spicy character of the Byrrh melding perfectly with the citric qualities in the drink. Also worth trying was The Boulevardier, a barrel-aged take on the original that beautifully showcased the bittersweet nature of the Campari against the classic combo of Bourbon and sweet vermouth.


Tua Tua Clams (New Zealand) [$10.00] | Served with Cocktail Sauce, Lime Jalapeño, & Horseradish
Getting back to the raw bar, we had some tuatuas, which I'd actually never tried before. Compared to your typical clams, these were spongier, and more interesting texturally, with an intense salinity to them countered by a noticeable amount of sweetness as well.


Clams in Abalone Broth [$15.00] | Manila Clams, Taro Noodles, Green Onions & Cilantro
Next, we come to what was probably my favorite course of the dinner. The clams themselves were spot on--firm and briny--but what really took this over the top was the abalone stock here, which lent a penetrating savor to the dish that really amplified the bivalves' inherent qualities. Also key were the scallions and cilantro, both of which provided a fantastic jolt of brightness and verve that really lightened up the dish.


Congee with Abalone [$16.00]
The congee was another highlight, and coincidentally (or not), also featured abalone, which served as a textural counterpoint and also added a fantastic depth to the soup. Taken with scallion, ginger, and a dash of white pepper, the dish was a comforting, cozy experience that ranked among the top rice porridges I've had.


Crispy Pepper Calamari [$8.00] | Spicy Aioli
Squid was rather tasty, with the scallion and accompanying condiment working well with the subtly savory quality of the fritters. However, I would've liked less batter, so that the texture of the calamari could've been better appreciated.


EMC Chowder [$6.00] | Potatoes, Celery, Onions, Clams, Light Creamy Broth
You gotta try the chowda at a seafood joint right? EMC's version was definitely on the lighter side, but nicely balanced, with the proper flavors all in place. Worth a try.


Aguas Frescas [$12.00] | Vodka, Mint, Cucumber, Sugar, & Champagne
Bee's Knees [$12.00] | Ford's Gin, Fresh Lemon Juice, Honey
Our last round of cocktails brought the Aguas Frescas, the lightest libation of the night with its candied, almost Jolly Rancher-esque sweetness tempered by a backbone of cucumber. Finally, there was the Bee's Knees, an unabashedly classic drink with a bracingly lemon-y flair that was duly moderated by the sugary heft of honey.


Dungeness Crab [$38.00] | Crispy: Light Batter, Sea Salt, Garlic, Onions, White Pepper, Soy Sauce
The evening's pièce de résistance was an impressive looking specimen of Dungeness crab, done up in proper Chinese-y fashion. The crabmeat itself was sweet, tender, subtle, and expectedly difficult to extract, but went superbly with the savory, salty qualities of its accompaniments. A fun one to share--gotta suck on those legs.


Chinese Broccoli [$5.00]
The gai-lan worked well as a foil to the course above, its crunchy, bitter qualities nicely balancing the intensity of the crab.


Belgium Chocolate Lava Cake [$6.00] | With Whipped Cream
With that, it was time for dessert, and how expected of us to start with a rendition of the ubiquitous molten chocolate cake (a creation of Michel Bras' from the 80's, I understand). EMC's was about what you'd expect: tasty enough, but not particularly interesting.


Ginger Crème Brûlée [$6.00]
The crème brûlée was a tiny bit more intriguing, with the piquant characteristics of the ginger really permeating the custard, all while the berries added just a hint of tartness to the fray.


Yuzu Soufflé Cheesecake [$6.00] | With Whipped Cream
We concluded with my favorite of the desserts. I appreciated the sourness of the yuzu here, and how it really made itself known over the traditional heft and tanginess of the cheesecake.

EMC's been blowing up as of late, and I can see why. The restaurant is almost painfully on-trend, delivering on its promises of solid seafood, but with a resoundingly Asian outlook. It is really that approach that makes this place stand out from the crowd. Desserts could use a little rejuvenation (I'd perhaps consider going more overtly Asian--riffing on patbingsu for example), but service was on point, and cocktails were definitely worth checking out as well. In the end, EMC looks to be a great fit for the neighborhood, and a much-needed addition to the K-Town dining scene.

Girasol (Studio City, CA)

September 18, 2013, 8:45 pm

≫ Next: RivaBella (West Hollywood, CA)

≪ Previous: EMC Seafood & Raw Bar (Los Angeles, CA)

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Girasol Restaurant
11334 Moorpark St, Los Angeles, CA 91602
818.924.2323
www.girasolrestaurant.com
Wed 09/18/2013, 08:45p-11:15p



Girasol's probably the most exciting thing to hit the Studio City dining scene since Adam Horton started cooking at Raphael. Named after the Spanish word for "sunflower," the place opened on July 1st and takes over the supposedly "cursed" space formerly occupied by a string of mediocre establishments (8 1/2 Taverna, Nick's Grill, ZenChi Cafe, and Studio Bar-B-Q). The draw here is clearly Executive Chef CJ Jacobson, whom we know from his two appearances on Top Chef, and the restaurant certainly hits all the culinary buzzwords du jour, advertising the cooking as local, hyper-seasonal, refined-rustic, sustainable, approachable-yet-unique Cal cuisine. We shall see.

About the Chef: Chris Jacobson hails from El Toro, CA (the O.G. Lake Forest) and grew up somewhat disinterested in food. He attended Pepperdine University, and during his tenure there, played volleyball under legendary coach Marv Dunphy, even reaching the NCAA Men's Volleyball Championship match in 1998. After graduating with a degree in TV/radio production and a minor in history, he played volleyball professionally in Europe and even tried out for the 2000 Summer Olympics in Sydney. While living in Belgium, Jacobson first began developing an appreciation for food, and upon his return to the US in 2001, started working at Abbot Kinney mainstay Axe. Following, he enrolled in the Le Cordon Bleu program at the CSCA, and from there, cooked at Wolfgang Puck Catering, and then at Campanile for a year and a half.

In 2005, Jacobson was diagnosed with testicular cancer, but overcame the condition after undergoing radiation therapy and surgery. However, this caused him to leave the restaurant biz and move into the less stressful role of private cheffing, securing clients such as Arianna Huffington and the Marciano family (of the Guess clothing line). In 2007, Jacobson was thrust into the national limelight through his appearance on Top Chef Season 3, where he finished in sixth place. With this newfound celebrity, he served as a menu consultant for Hilton Garden Inn in 2008, and also had plans to open Town and Country, an ambitious restaurant concept in Chicago, with fellow TC contestants Dale Levitski and Sara Nguyen. The idea was scrapped, though, following the economic downturn that year (interestingly, Levitski and Nguyen are working together now at Sprout, also in Chicago).

Jacobson's next move came in 2009, when he took on the Executive Chef role at The Yard in Santa Monica. While working there, he also assisted Michael Chiarello on the first season of Top Chef Masters, then participated in the James Beard Foundation's Celebrity Chef Tour and cooked a dinner at the Beard House in New York. In 2012, he left The Yard and staged for three months at René Redzepi's vaunted Noma in Copenhagen, and later competed on Season 10 of Top Chef, where he was eliminated in the fifth episode (though he rocked Last Chance Kitchen). After this renewed bit of fame, Jacobson began consulting for George Abou-Daoud, revamping menus at The Mercantile, Rosewood Tavern, and The Bowery before taking over the kitchens at Girasol.


As far as beverages go, Girasol still lacks a full liquor license, so cocktails aren't really an option at this point, while the wine list doesn't exactly scream excitement either. Corkage, though, is an option at $25, and a couple of my dining companions were gracious enough to bring along a few bottles. First was the 2010 Château de Fuisse Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru, which I found light and citrusy, with a refreshing acidity and quaint minerality to it, all joined by a certain roundness and viscosity on the tongue. I quite liked this one, though others at the table were complaining about it being over-oaked.


House Bread [$4.00] | With Lovage Butter
I keep going back and forth on the idea of restaurants charging for bread, but Girasol's tonight was worth it, arriving at the table properly warm and wonderfully smoky, nicely crisp and crusty on the outside, with a soft, fluffy interior that I found quite beguiling. As good as the bread was, I was a fan of the butter as well, its silky consistency and herby lovage nuances proudly conveyed.


Marinated and Grilled Pork Satay [$11.00] | Caramelized Onion Puree, CA Olive Oil, Grilled Lemon, Fennel Pollen
The pork satay was another winner, the meat coming out tender, juicy, and wonderfully savory, with a fantastic countervailing char bitterness. The tinge of sourness from the lemon was much appreciated as well, and the sweetness of the onion coming through on the back end was pretty neat, too. My favorite component here, though, was the fennel pollen, which lent some wonderful aromatics to the course that just tied things together beautifully.


Apricot and Burrata Cheese [$12.00] | Crispy Lentils, Opal Basil, Sea Salt
Here, the sweetness of the stone fruit was really at the forefront (though some pieces were underripe), transitioning gracefully to the classic, yet always effective combination of basil and burrata, punctuated by hits of salt on the palate. Unfortunately, the crunch of the lentils was far too jarring here, really serving to distracting from, rather than enhance the dish.


The 2010 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet was a standout: spicy and herby, with a softly acidic quality and a fantastic blend of stone fruit and wet minerality. Very focused, with a pleasing finish.


Octopus Salad [$17.00] | Long Roasted Eggplant, Little Gem, Rosemary Ash Oil, Sweet & Sour Chili, Toasted Lovage
Given my penchant for octopus, this was obviously a must-order for me. The main ingredient I found masterfully cooked, its tender, yet still substantial consistency combining with a subtle brine and great char astringency, all making for thoroughly enjoyable eating experience. The octopod's various accompaniments made sense as well, resulting in a mélange of smoky, earthy, and tangy flavors that added further points of interest to the dish.


Dried Fava Bean Puree [$14.00] | House Chorizo, Cherry Tomato, Parsley, Grilled Flatbread
Fava was puréed into in an almost hummus-like form, its subtle flavors dutifully augmented by the pleasant spice of the accompanying chorizo, all while tomatoes served to brighten up the dish. Use the included flatbread to scoop up everything, and the result is strangely comforting.


Grilled House Ground Meatballs [$13.00] | Nicoise, Long cooked Tomato Sauce, Parmesan
Meatballs, meanwhile, were some of the best I've had. They showed off a crumbly texture and came slightly rare, which I appreciated. Taste-wise, they were spot on: wonderfully savory in a straightforward fashion, with the tanginess of the tomato coming through toward the finish.


With the reds, we moved from Burgundy to Italy, and first to the plate was the 2005 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro. I found it a lovely presentation of Sangiovese, rather easy drinking and nicely balanced with its sourish cherry notes and earthy, woody musk.


Tamai Farms Pan Roasted Cauliflower [$18.00] | Grilled Oyster Mushroom, Mandarin Satsuma, Almond Cauliflower Puree, Lentils
At this point, we moved into the larger plates. I'm a big fan of cauliflower, and Jacobson's rendition of it here really delivered. The veggie itself showcased its inherently light, delicate flavors and trademark crispness, and was deftly paired with the headier, earthier notes from the mushrooms, all while the purée and lentils acted to ground the dish. A great vegetarian option to be sure.


Rabbit [$32.00] | Chanterelles, Squash, Blueberry, Chervil, Shaved Chestnuts
One of two specials tonight was the rabbit (the other was grouper). The kitchen did a nice job with the it, the meat being dense, mild, with a straightforward savoriness that melded very well with the rich, earthy nuances from the mushrooms. Chervil added a nice brightness to the dish, and the blueberries just a modicum of sweetness.


Whole Fried Red Snapper [$28.00] | Crispy Greens, Fermented Fresno Chili, Sauce of Kumquat, Sorrel and Citrus
The oft-photographed snapper reminded me of a similar dish at Salt Air. The version here was similarly delectable: juicy and flavorful, with a delightfully crisp skin. I quite enjoyed the fish bare, but the fermented chili-kumquat-sorrel dipping sauce that came along was something else, imparting a sour-smoky tint to the main ingredient that recalled Islay scotch(!).


Our final wine of the evening was the 2004 Antico Terren Ottavi Pianetta di Cagnore. It made a strong showing as well, displaying heady aromas of dark floral, fruit laced with spice, which continued onto the palate where it was joined by subtle tannins and traces of astringency.


Braised Leg of Lamb [$21.00] | Carrot Puree, Crispy Brussels, Ruby Plum, Fried Potato, Dill Flower
Our final savory course of the night brought us an artful presentation of lamb. The leg, unfortunately, was a touch dry, though its ovine flavors were still dutifully conveyed, and particularly apt when paired with the sweetness of the carrot and fruit, while the Brussels and dill contributed a bit of levity to the fray.


Olive Oil Cake and Peach [$8.00]
Naturally, we opted for all three of Girasol's desserts, and the first was this great rendition of olive oil cake. The cake itself I found wonderfully moist, with a subtle, yet omnipresent olive-y character that went superbly with the dollop of crème fraîche on top. The juicy sweetness of the peaches made for a fitting pairing, and I really liked the herbaceous overtones (fennel?) as well.


Dark Chocolate Chiboust [$8.00]
The requisite chocolate cake was successful, the cake itself bursting with rich, dark, sugary flavors, a perfect pair to the caramel ice cream and its delightful pricks of salt.


Strawberry and Doughnuts [$8.00]
Finally, buttermilk donut holes were presented with strawberries, globules of crème fraîche ice cream, pistachio coulis, and what I believe was sorrel. Here, the sweet, tangy fruit served as a foil to the slightly savory nature of the fried dough, with the crème fraîche adding a well-placed jolt of tanginess to the mix. Lovely bit of piquancy from the greenery, too. One nit: I would've liked the doughnuts to have come out warmer.

I don't think anyone really doubts that Girasol's a much-needed new addition to the Studio City scene. Like I mentioned above, it's one of the most exciting developments to hit the area in a while. The food's mostly successful, and you can see flashes of Jacobson's pan-ethnic influences and Noma training. Given Girasol's locale, I understand the need to make some of the plates more approachable, but I'd also like to see the Chef push things a bit more, to show us more of his progressive leanings (that is, if the owners--Rafael and Elle Gofman--will let him). We've all witnessed Jacobson on Top Chef and what he produced on the show, and we can even peek at what he's up to on his Instagram, so I think things are moving in that direction. I'm curious to see where he takes this.

RivaBella (West Hollywood, CA)

September 20, 2013, 8:35 pm

≫ Next: Etto (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Girasol (Studio City, CA)

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RivaBella Restaurant
9201 W Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.278.2060
www.rivabellarestaurant.com
Fri 09/20/2013, 08:35p-11:55p



When we last left Gino Angelini, he had converted La Terza to the more casual Minestraio. Minestraio, however, failed to catch on and shuttered in March 2011, replaced by The Churchill. The Chef's next move was revealed at the beginning of last year, when it was announced that he'd be partnering with the Innovative Dining Group to launch RivaBella in the old Hamburger Hamlet building on Sunset (a location shared with haute Chinese concept Chi-Lin). Named after a village near Angelini's hometown of Rimini, RivaBella represents his biggest, most glamorous restaurant yet, and debuted on January 14th. As he can't be expected to be in the kitchen all the time, running the day-to-day here are Chef de Cuisine Ezio Puccioni (All' Angelo, La Terza) and Executive Sous Chef Adam Titze, formerly of BOA.


The menu at RivaBella reads a bit pan-Italian, but with a nod toward the Chef's Emilia-Romagna upbringing. To drink, we're talking about Italian-centric cocktails from bartender Aaron Alvarez (Plan Check, Sunset Tower Hotel, SoHo House, not to mention Chi-Lin) as well as a respectable Cal-Italian wine list. Click for larger versions.


Vista Mar [$14.00] | Grey Goose Vodka, Fresh Basil and Organic Hibiscus Liqueur
Notte Scura [$14.00] | Maker's Mark Whisky, Nonino Amaro and Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth with Luxardo Cherry
Negroni Nuovo [$14.00] | Bombay Sapphire, Calisaya, Cocchi Americano, Stirred
Amore Di Violette [$14.00] | Oxley Gin, Creme de Violette and Maraschino Liqueur with Fresh Blackberries and Candied Violet Petals
A quartet of cocktails to begin. Going left to right, we had the Vista Mar, its straightforwardly sweet hibiscus flavors balanced against the herby overtones from the basil, the vodka almost invisible. The Notte Scura, on the other hand, was much boozier, with the woody nature of the Maker's nicely conveyed alongside the spiciness of the amaro, all while the vermouth and Luxardo imparted a delightfully sugary undercurrent to the drink. The Negroni Nuovo was a riff on the traditional cocktail--sweet, bitter, herbaceous, and surprisingly light--with Calisaya in place of Campari and Cocchi Americano substituting for vermouth. Finally, the Amore Di Violette I found unexpectedly boozy, with the aromatics of the gin strongly displayed, set off by the sweet, floral notes present.


Bread and grissini were presented with a dip of cannellini and garbanzo beans, olive oil, and garlic.


Carpaccio di Pesce Spada con Pistacchio e Bottarga [$21.00] | Seared Swordfish Carpaccio with Pistachio and Bottarga
Swordfish was meaty and moist, well cooked and pretty enjoyable. However, the kitchen was heavy handed with the bottarga here, which imparted a very strong salinity to the dish that tended to overwhelm the comparatively delicate fish.


Polipo con Olive e Patate [$22.00] | Octopus Salad with Roasted Potatoes, Olives, and Salsa Verde
I'm a sucker for octopus, and indeed, the salad here was one of the highlights of the meal. The cephalopod arrived nicely cooked, albeit a bit tough in places, showing off a mouthwatering brine and char that linked up beautifully with the savory, deliciously cubes of potato tossed in. At the same time, tempering things out were the tangy influences of the salsa and tomato, making for a well balanced dish overall.


Ricciola Crudo [$22.00] | Amber Jack Carpaccio with Red Pepperoncini Dressing, Pomegranate & Dill
One of the specials of the evening, the amberjack was the least successful course of the night. The fish was effectively masked here, first from the very piquant combination of peperoncini and pomegranate, then with strong blasts of both olive oil and salt that just overwhelmed the palate.


Pizza con Asparagi e Uova di Quaglia [$22.00] | Asparagus, Quail Egg, and Parmesan Cheese Pizza
RivaBella only offers a handful of pizzas, but the one we had was enjoyable. The pie came out thin and crisp, with a strong cheesy component that fared well against the bitterness of the asparagus. Tasty.


With the cocktails dispensed with, we moved on to a white wine, the 2012 Habit Chenin Blanc Jurassic Park Vineyard [$75]. Chenin Blanc's usually not a varietal I gravitate toward, but this was really nice: light, bright, and utterly refreshing, with an almost effervescent quality and plenty of vibrant stone fruit nuances to go along with the grassy notes and great backbone of minerality. Interestingly, the winemaker here is none other than Jeff Fischer, who voices the eponymous character (Hayley's stoner, loser boyfriend) on American Dad.


Risotto con Fiori di Zucca e Granchio [$28.00] | Risotto with Crab and Zucchini Blossoms
Moving into the pastas now, we of course had to start with the risotto, which I rather liked. The ocean-y essence of the crab really penetrated the nicely al dente grains here, and I much appreciated the tempering aspect provided by the zucchini too.


Nidi di Rondine [$21.00] | Nested Pasta with Italian Ham and Parmigiano Cream
Next was a San Marino specialty of nested, baked pasta. I'd actually never had the dish before, but it was easily the most comforting of the trio, with its brazenly cheesy, meaty goodness hitting the spot nicely.


Linguine con Ricci di Mare [$28.00] | Linguine with Sea Urchin Sauce
Sea urchin seems to be the pasta topping du jour these days, but RivaBella's was a worthwhile presentation. The noodles themselves were properly firm, serving as a fitting base for the lush, herby, slightly spicy flavors to really sing. I would've liked a bit more of the urchin here, though.


With our mains, we went for a red, the 2010 La Spinetta Langhe Nebbiolo [$68]. This one was intensely perfume-y on the nose, with plenty of rich, fruity notes that actually led to a decidedly more austere palate, one that was quite tannic and acidic, with hints of smoke and alcohol toward the close.


Astice al Guazzetto [$48.00] | Roasted Maine Lobster Tail in Tomato White Wine Broth
Inspired by Eater LA's recent list, we went with the lobster. The tail was meaty and firm, with a pretty decent texture to it and a mildly sweet relish that paired swimmingly with the accompanying, tangy tomato stew.


Mixed Wild Mushrooms [$10.00]
Mixed mushrooms were just what you'd expect: dark, earthy, and delectably savory.


Costata di Bue Piemontese [$62.00] | 16oz Piedmontese Ribeye
Here, we see our most substantial course of the evening. The rib eye was a pretty impressive sight, arriving juicy, with a very strong char component. Taste-wise, the steak was nice, though not particularly beefy in nature, while texturally, it could've been improved in places. The cut was joined by some delectable rosemary(?) potatoes, which were spot on.


Long Braised Swiss Chard [$9.00]
Chard was light and crunchy, with a touch of astringency to it that made sense with the strong garlicky notes present.


Classic Tiramisu [$11.00] | Layers of Espresso Soaked Lady Fingers with Mascarpone Cheese, Brandy and Cocoa
Desserts proceeded with the ubiquitous tiramisu. RivaBella's was one of the strongest preparations I've had, traditional in essence, with the lush, espresso- and brandy-saturated cake showing off an eminently pleasing combination of sweet, boozy, coffee-laced flavors.


Selezione di Gelato dello Chef [$12.00] | Selection of House Made Gelato
The restaurant's selection of homemade gelatos were on point, coming tonight in hazelnut, vanilla, chocolate, and pistachio flavors. They were all delicious in their own right, and went beautifully with their crispy cookie base.


Torta di Ricotta [$12.00] | Italian Cheesecake with Ricotta Cheese, Almonds and Rum Poached Pears
We ended with the cheesecake, a commendable version of the dish that deftly played sweet and tangy nuances off each other, augmented by the weight of the poached fruit. Superb when taken with the accompanying ice cream.

Given that this was an IDG joint, I didn't exactly have high hopes for the food, so my expectations were met, maybe even a bit exceeded. I think the menu can perhaps verge on "safe" at times, but the ideas generally work. Execution could use improvement though, and overall I'd definitely like to see more finesse, more precision. Service, meanwhile, was shockingly on point, even on a Friday night, and it seemed like our servers were genuinely trying to do the right thing. Even more surprising, the whole vibe wasn't nearly as noxious as I'd feared. The likes of Sotto and Bestia need not fret, but this isn't a bad choice necessarily.

Etto (Washington, DC)

September 24, 2013, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Minibar (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: RivaBella (West Hollywood, CA)

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Etto Restaurant
1541 14th St NW, Washington, DC 20005
202.232.0920
www.ettodc.com
Tue 09/24/2013, 08:30p-10:40p





After spending twoyears away from DC, I recently made my way back to the Nation's capital for a business trip. First on the eating itinerary was Etto, a new, low-key pizza/wine bar concept named after an Italian measure of weight equaling 100 grams. The Logan Circle restaurant opened in May, and represents a collaboration between the owners of the vaunted 2 Amys pizzeria (Amy Morgan and Peter Pastan) and beer garden-slash-BBQ joint Garden District/The Standard (Tad Curtz and David Rosner); Curtz, by the way, was a cook at 2 Amys from 2006 to 2010. The Chef here, meanwhile, is Cagla Onal-Urel, a Turkish native who worked at Pastan's Obelisk for several years before moving back to Istanbul to head the kitchens at Hotel Les Ottomans. She was invited back to the US by her former employer, and joined the Etto team in September of last year.


Etto is located in the old Well Built building, which has since been transformed by local architect Bill Feeney. The 42-seat space sports a comforting sort of vibe befitting the food, and many of the furnishings and fixtures were actually constructed by Curtz and his father.


As far as Etto's menu goes, there's a standard set of dishes--anchored by pizzas and housemade salumi--that compose most of the offerings, joined by a dynamic selection of daily specials ("Tonight"). To drink, you'll find a Sicilian-heavy, Beaujolais-boasting wine list, some Italian-leaning beers, and a handful of cocktails. Click for larger versions.


TBD Negroni [$11.00] | Homemade Red Vermouth, Campari and Green Hat Gin
Etto's negroni, famously concocted with the restaurant's homemade vermouth, was one of the best I've had. I loved its medicinal, vegetal nuances up front, as well as its base of pleasant, restrained bittersweetness. Very well integrated, thoroughly balanced, and unquestionably delicious.


Octopus Salad with Pickled Vegetables and Arugula [$13.00]
Octopus was a must, of course. The version here featured substantial cuts of the cephalopod, savory and sweet, with a fitting counterpoint in the form of those sharply astringent greens. Tying things together, meanwhile, was the salad's delightfully tangy dressing.


Rabbit Liver (almost) Mousse on Homemade Crackers with Mulberry Jam [$3.50]
Etto's rabbit liver was stupendous, I'm pretty sure one of the tastiest preparations I've had. The mousse arrived earthy and lush, yet subtle, with a perfect amount of moderating sweetness and a great crunch from the cracker.


Anchovies in Green Sauce [$11.00]
The restaurant has a particular penchant for anchovies, and here the fish was shown in its best light, its focused, yet refined brine utterly balanced by the tangy salsa verde, all while the egg acted as a luxurious foil in the dish. Very well thought out.


The Gilda "Radner" [$7.00]
Here was a take on the gilda, a traditional tapas "lollipop" dish composed of anchovy, olive, and chile pepper. Think fishy and intense, the power of the anchovy tempered by the piquant, acidic, spicy jolt of its pickled accoutrements.


Bread, smoky and crusty, is made in-house, natch.


Saint Gennaro [$11.00] | Lambrusco Grasparossa with Nardini Tagliatella Liqueur and Grapefruit Juice
My next cocktail was also pretty fantastic, with a base of lambrusco vivacity intertwined with aromatic notes of fruit, spice, and a beautiful bittersweet component. This one went down easy (almost too easy).


French Breakfast Radishes with Anchovy Butter [$3.50]
Radishes were crisp and astringent, their sharp, bracing character balanced out by the application of salt and that fishy compound butter.


Pork, Duck, and Rabbit Rillette [$9.00]
Rillettes were dense and hefty, imbued with a heady meatiness and a modicum of sweet spice to smooth things out. Pickles, meanwhile, provided a crucial crunch and acidity to things.


Cauliflower with Pine Nuts and Saffron [$9.00]
Cauliflower was a must-try given my proclivity for it. Saffron offered up a particularly effective complement to the vegetable, and I really appreciated the nutty crunch here imparted by the pinoli. However, I would've really liked the cauliflower to have been firmer, crisper in consistency.


With the pizza, I switched things up to wine and had a glass of the Nerello Mascalese "Ghiaia Nera," Tascante '10 [$12]. This Sicilian was fairly intense, loaded with strong berry flavors joined by a slightly grassy/herby/spicy component. Tannins were quite apparent, as was an undercurrent of minerality


Cotechino with Fontina and Egg [$17.00]
Given the pedigree of the owners, trying one of the pies was certainly called for. The dough here is composed of wheat milled on site, along with a touch of spelt, and fired in a red oak-burning oven. The result is a crust that's fluffy and stretchy (not to mention properly leopard spotted), with a bittersweet tinge to it that was quite to my liking. Taken with the fatty, herby, unabashedly pork-y sausage, salty cheese, and runny egg, the effect was rather fetching.


To pair with dessert, I ordered up a serving of the sticky stuff, specifically the Moscato Passito, Colosi '10 [$11]. This was exactly what you'd expect: a blast of honeyed, stone fruit sweetness, but balanced by a great backbone of acidity.


Miss Frascati [$5.00]
Ice Cream [$6.00] | Crema with Orange and Cinnamon & San Daniele with Candied Pistachio
Dessert was interesting, featuring the legendary three-breasted (two milk, one wine) woman from Frascati, basically a sweet 'n' spicy cookie that went wonderfully with the excellent homemade ice creams.

Etto was a nice way to get back into the DC dining scene. The cooking shows off a sort of approachable simplicity, with flavors that are pure, focused, and undoubtedly work with each other. I appreciated the rustic, home-y quality of the food, as well as the emphasis on housemade product, making for a combination that, judging from the crowds, is working wonders for the team here.

Minibar (Washington, DC)

September 25, 2013, 8:10 pm

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minibar by José Andrés
855 E St NW, Washington, DC 20004
202.393.0812
www.minibarbyjoseandres.com
Wed 09/25/2013, 08:10p-11:20p



As far as restaurants go, José Andrés' Minibar has no doubt been one of my holy grails, a place that I'd set my sights on early on in my culinary journey. I'd been wanting to dine here since 2005, but the difficulty of securing reservations, not to mention its location in DC, had put me off until now.

For the uninitiated, Minibar first opened in July 2003, set in the upstairs bar of Andrés' pan-Latin eatery Cafe Atlantico, and quickly garnered acclaim for being the first place in the United States to really offer diners a taste of avant garde Spanish cuisine, a traditional that it still upholds today. The original incarnation of Minibar shuttered in July 2011, when Cafe Atlantico was converted to America Eats Tavern, which itself closed recently. However, in November last year, the restaurant relocated to a larger space previously home to Zola Wine & Kitchen, but still remains the most exclusive of all of ThinkFoodGroup's properties (which include popular destinations such as Jaleo, Oyamel, and Zaytinya). It serves as a research and development lab for the TFG, the birthplace of new ideas and concepts that often spread to Andrés' other projects, the similarly progressive Saam and é in particular.

Leading the charge here is R&D Director Ruben Garcia, as well his assistant Aitor Lozano Zabala, both of whom spent considerable time at Ferran Adrià's game-changing El Bulli. At the same time, running the day-to-day is Executive Sous Chef Johnny Spero, best known for his short-lived Suna (he's also a veteran of Town House in Chilhowie, Rogue 24, and Komi who apprenticed at both Alinea and Noma). Meanwhile, rounding out the team were Sous Chef Charisse Dickens and stagiaire Daniel Bates, with GM Bevan Bunch, Service Director Daniel Taylor, and server Matt Hensel handling the front-of-the-house.


I arrived early to my reservation, and thus was directed to the restaurant's waiting area out front, where I was presented with a box containing rice paper crackers dusted with nori powder and Maldon sea salt. I instantly thought of upscale Funyuns, with their very subdued base of flavor on top of which the seaweed and salt could really play with the palate.


Eventually, we were all ushered into the main dining space. Minibar's new 3,750sqft digs were penned by Juli Capella and Miquel Garcia of Capella Garcia Arquitectura, and was nominated this year for James Beard's Outstanding Restaurant Design award. The room is centered around a large open kitchen, home to seemingly as many cooks as diners. There are now twelve seats instead of a mere six, as well as the brand new José's Table, a private dining room accommodating up to half a dozen diners. It might just be a quick and convenient way of booking a ressie at Minibar, though it comes at a price: $3,000, inclusive of food (either the standard degustation or a special José's Table menu), beverage pairing, tax, and tip (so it's actually a pretty good deal).


Minibar's menu has gone up from $150 to $225 a head now, which is still not too unreasonable given its length. To drink, you'll find set beverage pairings at $45 (non-alcoholic), $75 (standard), $125 (celebration, highlighting sparkling wines), and $200 ("José's way"). If you'd rather choose your own adventure, there's a formidable, classically-leaning wine list of lighter bodied wines, not to mention a good selection of wines available by the glass. Click for a larger version.


1: A Poor Man's Pretention
As is typical in Andrés' more high-concept restaurants, we commenced with a "welcome cocktail." What we had here basically amounted to barley- and hops-flavored water, a fun little concoction (replete with mini brown paper bag) that really recalled the essence of beer.


2: Parmesan Canelé
Along with the beverage above came a bevy of bites to begin. A "canelé" of sorts seemed to dance between sweet and cheesy, but finished with the salty savor of the Parm on apparent display.


3: Pineapple Short Bread
Pineapple shortbread arrived in a disproportionately large vessel, but was fantastic despite its humble visage. The tart, tangy sweetness of the fruit was beautifully conveyed, set perfectly against the butteriness of the bite, which lingered long and strong on the close.


4: Pizza Margarita
I'm a fan of thin crust pizza, but I'd never encountered anything like this before. There's thin, and then there's near-transparent, sheer, and damn well gossamer. What we had was all the flavors of a classic Margherita, but with almost no weight, no gravity at all. I was especially fond of the basil here, as well as the hit of spice on the back end imparted by the optional dried chile flakes. I'd love to demolish an entire pie!


5: Pressed Flowers
Krug Grande Cuvée Brut Champagne, France
A course of pressed flowers recalled the arts and crafts projects I tackled in elementary school (anyone else remember sticking specimens between the pages of Webster's?). We had petals of anise hyssop, carnation, and marigold set in a potato starch paper with rosewater and St. Germain. The result was a sweet, sticky, and undoubtedly floral-tinged mass that actually worked out surprisingly well against the slightly oxidative nature of the paired Krug.


Here, we see the meticulous, time-sensitive (liquid nitrogen was involved) preparation of our next course.


6: Almond Tart with Blue Cheese
Krug Grande Cuvée Brut Champagne, France
Looking at this course, I thought it'd be dessert-y, but instead, what we got instead was a mélange of flavors incorporating Marcona almond (in the form of that hemispherical shell), passion fruit-lychee, and Queso de Valdeón. The effect was savory and cheesy, sort of recalling the nuances of a traditional tapas dish.


7: Rubber Ducky
2010 Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Kabinett Berncasteler Doctor Mosel, Germany
Minibar's nod to the iconic bath toy (as well as a follow-up to last season's "When Pigs Fly") was comprised of foie gras ice cream and duck stuffed inside a dehydrated apple meringue. The almost ethereal sweetness of the apple worked flawlessly with the earthy relish of liver, really making for a gorgeously balanced presentation of the foie. I loved the surprising gravitas of the dish given its lighthearted presentation, and thoroughly adored the spot on wine pairing here as well, that perfect off-dry Riesling really hitting the mark--ah the joys of a good Kabinett!


8: Sea Bean Tempura
2010 Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Kabinett Berncasteler Doctor Mosel, Germany
What looked like a twisted avian claw was instead a fritter of sea bean, dusted with coconut powder and drizzled with a tamarind reduction. The taste, meanwhile, somehow recalled a churro upon first bite, but with very apparent notes of Cheetos coming through on the back end!


9: Waldorf Salad
2010 Dr. H. Thanisch Riesling Kabinett Berncasteler Doctor Mosel, Germany
Minibar's reimagined Waldorf salad was unquestionably one of the highlights of the evening. Set between two "buns" of apple meringue was an admixture of apple, pickled celery, celery ice, walnut, and a so-called "creamy dressing." Looking at the meringues, I was afraid that the "bread-to-meat" ratio here would be off, but their airy, almost melt-in-your-mouth nature really made things work. Think, sweet, tangy flavors, flawlessly balanced by a strong backbone of astringent celery, with a lovely temperature contrast to boot.


10: Late-Night Chicken Shawarma
2010 Movia Sauvignon Blanc Primorje, Slovenia
Another stunner of a course was the homage to the nourishing shawarmas that most of us have consumed late night at one point or another. Wrapped tightly in lettuce were chicken skin, chicken jus, and various herbs, all accompanied by a pepper-dusted yogurt condiment. Taken alone, the roll was bursting with mouth-watering chicken-y goodness (not to mention the crunch of those cracklins), beautifully accented by the snappy brightness of its veggie wrapper. The key, though, was that thoroughly addictive yogurt, which just might rival the Halal Guys' legendary "white sauce." It provided a delicate, lactic tang that integrated the entire dish; seriously, people were licking it off the plate. I also have to give props to the wine pairing here as well. I don't normally reach for sauvignon blanc, but the Movia here was excellent, showing off a refreshing fruitiness, but also a grassy character and a surprisingly mineral-y profoundness to it--one of the best sauv blancs I've ever tasted no doubt.


Our next course eschewed wine in favor of a Thai Basil "Iced Tea" that brought together Aperol, ginger beer, lime, and a Thai basil "air." It was a delightful little cocktail, a blast of bittersweet and uncommonly herbal, aromatic influences over an undercurrent of ginger-y zest.


Time for a tweezer party!


11: Vietnamese Pig Ear
Thai Basil "Iced Tea"
A reference to Vietnamese street food, we had here a pig ear chicharrón stuffed with curried pork shoulder, pickles, and herbs, all garnished with a Pasteur pipette of chili oil. The home-y, intoxicating nuances of the curry really underpinned the course, perfectly countervailed by the brightness of the herbs and pickles, with the oreja serving as a salty, crunchy base to the dish. Delicious, and even better when taken with the warmth imparted by the chile.


To wipe our fingers: A compressed napkin tablet à la Baume, rehydrated via rosewater.


The tableside assembly line for our next course.


12: Ibérico Sea Urchin
Poma Aurea Sidra de Asturias, Spain
Here, sea urchin was joined by an egg yolk sauce and set in an Ibérico broth, the deeply smoky, savory essence of the liquid deftly transitioning to the sweet, briny notes of the uni. Excellent when taken with the dry, funky cider that came with.


Plating Coconut Cuttlefish, Johnny Spero in the middle.


13: Coconut Cuttlefish
Takasago Shuzo "Ginga Shizuku Divine Droplets" Junmai Daiginjo Hokkaido Prefecture, Japan
What looked like coconut was actually cuttlefish, and vice versa--a playful deception, and one that successfully mimicked textures as well. Taste wise, what we enjoyed were two facets of competing sweetness, both tied together by the tangy zing of the accompanying sauce.


14: Beech Mushroom Papillot with Truffle
2011 François Carillon Chardonnay Puligny-Montrachet 1er "Champs-Gain" Burgundy, France
One of the more comforting courses was this presentation of shimeji prepared en papillote, in which mushrooms were cooked in a transparent plastic pouch, which was then cut open tableside, the musky bouquet of the 'shrooms utterly intoxicating. If that wasn't enough, pecan truffle was then shaved on top, revealing further richness and depth, its earthy perfume enveloping the entire dish. A table favorite.


15: Smoked Chicken Oysters with Escabeche
2010 Romano Clelia Fiano di Avellino "Colli Di Lapio" Campania, Italy
Oysters were plated with chicken broth, mushroom, lardo, scallion, and an escabeche froth, with the whole shebang encased in an apple wood smoke-filled glass cloche. When lifted, the vapors dispersed, thus presenting a smoky balance to the brine of the oyster, while the escabeche foam and greenery imparted just enough brightness and levity to the course.


Chef Spero takes the lead.


16: Fabes con Almejas
2011 Hilberg-Pasquero Brachetto/Barbera Vareij Piedmont, Italy
This seemingly classic Spanish dish of "beans and clams" was anything but. Rather, we had a study in spherification. The apparent "beans" here were actually composed of white bean purée, spherified, and the clams were similarly encapsulated in their own juices. The ocean-y flavors of the bivalves were somehow enhanced in the process, their blast of salinity beautifully counterbalanced by the mild, nutty beans, all while dots of parsley added a bit of verdant brightness to the dish. I loved the wine pairing here as well, the Hilberg showing off an incredibly perfume-y nose that was just bursting with floral, fruity notes.


17: Espardenyes with Bone Marrow
2010 Nicolas Rossignol Pinot Noir Volnay 1er "Clos de Angles" Burgundy, France
I'm no fan of sea cucumber, but served here with bone marrow, black pepper, and a butter froth, it was simply the best preparation of the creature that I'd ever eaten. Texturally, it was spot on--snappy, yet supple--and I loved its mild, oceanic savors, expertly augmented by the heft of that marrow, the butter adding an overarching richness to the entire amalgam. I'll be thinking of this one for a while. Great Volnay here, too.


Serving as an intermezzo before the squab was an oyster leaf dabbed with a mousse of the bird's liver and an apple mignonette air. It packed a lot of flavor into a miniscule bite, the earthy essence of the liver masterfully tempered by the tartness of apple as well as the piquant zing of the dish's leafy base.


18: Roast Squab with Seaweed
2010 Nicolas Rossignol Pinot Noir Volnay 1er "Clos de Angles" Burgundy, France
The most substantial course of the night came, unsurprisingly, in the form of our last savory: a roasted squab breast, with oyster cream and coated with mounds of seaweed. The bird came out quite rare, and in fact some of my fellow diners questioned if the meat was undercooked. I have to believe, though, that a kitchen of this stature would never undercook by accident. The temperature, thus, was as intended, and indeed, it really brought the squab's lean, almost gamy intensity to the forefront. At the same time though, the ocean-y, umami-laced shards of seaweed here formed a surprisingly effective, and sort of brilliant counterpoint to the protein, and I much appreciated the undertones of sweet pomegranate(?) in the dish, too.


19: Bloody Beets and Yogurt
Our first dessert featured my archnemesis, the beet, in spherified form with hibiscus, topped with heaps of shaved frozen yogurt. The effect, quite simply, was flawless, the cool, tangy froyo offering up the perfect complement to the sugary, floral nuances of the beet-hibiscus combo. Seriously one of the best beet dishes I've ever had.


Here, Spero tackles our final course at Minibar proper...


20: Mango Floating Island
2007 Dagueneau/Pautrat Le Jardins De Babylone Petite Manseng Jurançon, France
...A riff on the classic île flottante, only one made with dried mango and coconut water. I found it a light, refreshing, palate-clearing sort of course, the sweet, tangy notes of the dessert melding seamlessly with a certain herby verve, all while tapioca bits on the bottom imparted just enough textural play.


21: Raspberry Bon Bon
At this point, we left our seats at Minibar and moved to the adjacent Barmini, Andrés' new cocktail lab (look out for a separate report on it later), and enjoyed our last parting bites, a parade of mignardises if you will. First on the docket was a raspberry bonbon, the sweetness and vivacity of the fruit duly moderated by the lactic nature of the yogurt here.


22: Thai Pocky Stick
A Thai-inspired reworking of the iconic Pocky was even better than the original, a fantastically crunchy blend of chocolate-y and spicy flavors that left me wanting more.


23: Lemon-Mallow
A stark demisphere comprised a lemon marshmallow, encased in white chocolate, the sugary heft of the latter counterbalanced by the former's unabashedly puckering qualities.


24: Blueberry Coulant
25: Boozy Bear
This twosome brought us a delightful blueberry coulant alongside a wonderfully boozy, mezcal-flavored gummy bear.


26: Doughnuts
1979 Francis Darroze Domaine de Lamarquette Bas-Armagnac, France
Lastly, we had my favorite of the little treats: Krispy Kreme ice cream in ring form, covered in milk chocolate and sprinkles. Visuals aside, this really did taste like a doughnut, but somehow in concentrated form. I'll take a dozen, please!


Along with the sweets came our choice of tea (I chose oolong) and pourover coffee, both of which, not surprisingly, were among the best I've tasted.

Minibar's been a meal eight years in the making, and I gotta say that it was worth the wait, especially as the restaurant just celebrated its 10th anniversary. There's a reason why this place has remained one of the temples of progressive gastronomy throughout the years. The cooks here are masters of manipulation, of reinventing the ordinary, of putting out food that perfectly blends tradition with technique, infusing it with artful nuances, irreverent touches, and sometimes cerebral flourishes that tantalize both the mind and the palate. And that last point's important; the cooking may be whimsical, unexpected, and unapologetically avant garde at times, but that would mean nothing if the food didn't taste good, but it most certainly did.

The dinner was actually a refreshing change of pace from the local/seasonal/sustainable/refined-yet-rustic mantra that has dominated our culinary Zeitgeist as of late (not that there's anything wrong with that). No, instead, ingredients are tweaked, sometimes beyond recognition, and gathered from all over the world (Andrés is a vocal proponent of sourcing the most appropriate product available, irrespective of locale), seasons be damned. Recipes aren't created on the fly, depending on what's available at the market, but painstakingly and exactingly developed for weeks or even months ahead of time.

And if that wasn't enough, the beverage pairings were among the best I've had, and service proved to be top notch--precise, yet relaxed, lighthearted even (much like the food). Taken with the intimacy and one-to-one interactions with the kitchen, Minibar's truly an experience not to be missed--a dinner and a show, the closest thing we can get to El Bulli--and should be on every serious diner's bucket list.

---

Barmini (Washington, DC)

September 25, 2013, 11:20 pm

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barmini by José Andrés
855 E St NW, Washington, DC 20004
202.393.4451
www.minibarbyjoseandres.com
Wed 09/25/2013, 11:20p-01:40a



If you read my Minibar post, you'll know that a dinner there also includes a reservation at Barmini. Set in an adjoining space, Barmini debuted in February and is a 30-seat "cocktail lab" concept run by Juan Coronado, one featuring a menu of over 100 chef-driven libations that simultaneously pays respects to classic cocktails while also showing off some distinctly modernist leanings. Barmini also acts as a cocktail development center, thus serving as a drink-focused version of Minibar in some respects.


As far as the interior goes, it's vastly different from pretty much every bar out there--light, modern, even a bit surreal--but really fits in with Minibar's aesthetic next door.


As we see above, I'm not exaggerating when I say that Barmini's menu is vast, broken up by choice of base spirit. Note the use of "-" versus "=" next to the descriptions, the former signifying a classic drink, the latter signaling a more contemporary (though not necessarily avant garde) concoction. Wine is also an option here, but why? In addition, you'll probably want to eat something, so there's even a small menu of elevated bar snacks to go along with the booze. Click for larger versions.


The Highlander [$16.00] | whiskey, mezcal, rosemary syrup, crème de cacao
To start, I requested something "unique," and Bartender David Strauss (who took care of me most of the night) responded with The Highlander. It was excellent, quite simply one of the best cocktails I've had in a while, and not just because of its plumes of rosemary scented air, which did indeed draw its share of oohs and aahs. I'm a fan of whiskey, and a fan of mezcal, and the two together here brought a beautiful commingling of woody, smoky flavors that played off of the aromatic, herby nuances of rosemary beautifully, all while the crème de cacao imparted just a smidge of sugariness to the drink. Utterly balanced, and uncommonly delicious.


Clearly, I wasn't the only one interested in documenting the spectacle.


Bánh Mì Burger [$8.00] | beef short rib, bone marrow, pickled vegetables
The burger came out looking more like a slider, but it was nevertheless one of the best I've eaten. The patty itself verged on decadent, with the super fatty, flavorful, succulent beef melding with the pickled veggies in perfect harmony. A flawless few bites.


Martinez [$12.00] | gin, vermouth, maraschino, orange bitters
For my second cocktail, I veered in a completely different direction and went with the Martinez, the predecessor to the martini that came recommended by Matt Hensel from Minibar. The classic combo of gin and vermouth was tarted up by the addition of orange bitters and maraschino liqueur, which resulted in a citrus-y, bittersweet, yet unabashedly stiff cocktail with a surprising complexity to it.


Uni Panini [$7.00] | sea urchin, alioli, romesco sauce, sansho peppercorn, caramelized brioche
My next snack was the mini uni panini (that's a lot of ni's). This one was delicious as well, with the lush, sweet, saline sea urchin masterfully tempered by the use of various veggies, all while the tangy romesco and sansho brought it all together.


Grilled Cheese [$9.00] | valdeon, cowgirl creamery mt. tam, sharp cheddar, truffle
The grilled cheese was pretty phenomenal too, the best I've had in fact. There was just this multifaceted richness and saltiness present, moderated by the crisp toast, and a fantastic truffle-y overtone that integrated everything.


Right Hand | aged rum, sweet vermouth, campari
Next, based off my request for something with dark rum, Strauss suggested this off-menu cocktail originally created by Michael McIlroy (Attaboy, Little Branch, Milk & Honey) back in '07. It was another winner, showing off a great blend of bitter and sweet flavors, the vermouth really coming through, all with just a tinge of spice at the end.


Thai Chicharrones [$6.00] | crispy pork skin, kaffir lime, ginger, tamarind, yogurt dip
The Thai-inspired pork rinds were fun, with their tart, herby flavors mixing with the sweet, creamy yogurt in commendable fashion.


Adonis [$12.00] | oloroso sherry, sweet vermouth, orange bitters
Another cousin of the martini, the Adonis substitutes sherry for gin. The resulting cocktail gave up a lot of citrus fruit initially, which then led to a body brimming with the dark, wonderfully oxidative qualities of the oloroso.


"Foieffle" [$12.00] | mini waffle, foie gras, peanut butter, honey
The team at Minibar/Barmini really have a facility with foie, as we see here again. I was quite the fan of this über waffle and how the luxuriousness of the liver was so deftly integrated. It was almost PB&J-like in essence: sweet, lush, delectable, with the foie gras underscoring the entire experience.


Lobster Roll [$12.00] | canadian blue lobster, mayo espuma, pickled celery
Naturally, I had to try the lobster roll here for my last savory (though blue lobster isn't actually lobster, but a type of crayfish). It was tasty, the sweetness and brine of the flesh working well with the tangy, crunchy pickles, all while mayo helped tie everything together. My only qualm here was with the texture, as I would've preferred the meat snappier, springier in consistency.


Aged Rum Flip | coffee, bourbon
To pair with the ice cream sandwich, I went with another off-menu cocktail, this one prepared by the lovely Carlie Steiner. It was pretty fantastic: smooth, frothy, a perfect dessert cocktail that blended a delightful sweet spice with a great base of heady booze. Yum.


Ice Cream Sandwich [$6.00]
Finishing things off was probably the best traditional ice cream sandwich I've had, which was stuffed with what I wanna say was a vanilla-bourbon ice cream. The ice cream itself was on point, and I loved the cookie texture, which was substantial, yet almost falling-apart, with an apparent but not domineering sweetness. Think classic flavors, elevated, but still familiar and satisfying.

Even based on my short time here, I think it's safe to say that Barmini's one of the most exciting bars to debut this year, a place where traditional drinks are executed with a precision, flair, and reverence not commonly seen and new creations tantalize in even more indescribable manners--a real showcase of all that's possible these days in the cocktailian realm. And the food's pretty damn good too.

Birch & Barley (Washington, DC)

September 26, 2013, 7:15 pm

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Birch and Barley / ChurchKey
1337 14th St NW, Washington, DC 20005
202.567.2576
www.birchandbarley.com
Thu 09/26/2013, 07:15p-09:20p



After a pretty much epic dinner at Minibar the previous night, I was in the mood for something a bit more low-key, and Birch & Barley (and its upstairs bar ChurchKey) fit the bill nicely. Located in Logan Circle just a stone's throw away from Etto (where I ate just two nights prior), the restaurant is best known for its vast, vast selection of beers (as in over 500), paired with the cooking of Chef Kyle Bailey.

About the Chef: The Aston, Pennsylvania native got his start in the industry at age 14 as a dishwasher at the nearby Brass Ladle Bistro, and after finishing high school, enrolled at the vaunted Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, graduating in 2000. Following, Bailey went the hotel route, cooking at resorts in the Caribbean and then in Florida, including Hotel St. Michel in Coral Gables and the Biltmore in Miami. He then moved to New York, spending three years at the celebrated, wine-focused Cru under Shea Gallante, the transitioned in 2007 to Dan Barber's Blue Hill at Stone Barns, where he really began taking an interest in pairing beer with food.

Bailey started his first Executive Chef position in December 2008, when he took the reins at the Michelin-starred Allen & Delancey, replacing Neil Ferguson. He left just months later, however, due to disagreements with management, and moved down to DC in July 2009 after being scouted by Neighborhood Restaurant Group co-owner Michael Babin. Bailey ended up taking over for Rustico's Frank Morales, who was supposed to helm Birch & Barley, and debuted the restaurant in September 2009 to considerable acclaim. He even picked up Food & Wine's "People's Best New Chef" award for the mid-Atlantic region in 2011.

Joining Bailey at Birch & Barley is Tiffany MacIsaac, NRG's Executive Pastry Chef who also happens to be his wife. The two met at Cru, where she was Pastry Chef, and he followed her to Allen & Delancey before getting hitched and settling in Washington. Rounding out the team is Beer Director Greg Engert, a 2010 F&W"Sommelier of the Year" and 2012 James Beard "Outstanding Wine & Spirits Professional" nominee who manages the suds at all of Neighborhood's properties.


Birch & Barley's menu features Bailey's new American stylings in both à la carte and tasting menu formats. Given that I was by myself, I went with the latter, a five-courser priced at a reasonable $60, plus $25 for the beer pairing, along with a couple supplements as well. Click for larger versions.


As mentioned above, B&B's beer list is pretty ridiculous, claiming 555 selections nominally divided into 500 bottles (broken down in a 30 page book by flavor profiles: Crisp, Hop, Malt, Roast, Tart & Funky, Fruit & Spice), 50 drafts (shown above), and five cask-conditioned ales (also above). If there's any place that has a larger beer selection, I haven't seen it. In addition, if beer isn't your thing, you'll find a smattering of cocktails, an interesting whisky list, as well as the requisite wines. Click for larger versions.


Amuse Bouche: Arancino
Things got off to a comfy start with this Parmesan-stuffed risotto ball, a hot, gooey bite of cheesy goodness with a delightfully crisp crust to boot.


1: Crudo of Mackerel | Summer Melon, Asian Peas, Prosciutto, Tarragon
Classique / Stillwater Artisanal / Maryland
A crudo of mackerel was clean and delicate, with just a whisper of fishiness tempered by the bright, fruity flavors present while the prosciutto added a pinch of salt to the fray. Rather tasty, and a good match to the light, herby, zesty, subtly funky nuances of the paired saison.


Breads here are specially made by MacIsaac, and featured wonderfully salty pretzel, cornbread, and kalamata olive (my fav) varieties this evening, all served with honey and butter.


2: Pan Seared Grouper Cheeks | Tomato Water, Turnips, Cucumber, Limas, Mustard Greens
Konrad Polotmavý / Pivovary Vrstislavice / Czech Republic
The grouper, meanwhile, was the highlight of the meal for me, and probably the best preparation of the ingredient that I've ever had. The fish itself was perfect, with its firm, yet yielding consistency and immensely savory, satisfying relish that was beautifully countered by the lightness of the tomato water. At the same time, the lima beans imparted a textural component to the dish, and the mustards just an slight undercurrent of tartness. Great beer here as well, with the Polotmavý (a style that I don't think I'd had before) coming out malty and somewhat herbaceous, with a soft smoky quality to it.


Supplement: Grilled Octopus [$7.00] | Pickled Eggplant, Fingerling Potatoes, Herb Salad, Red Pearl Onions
Octopus, of course, was a must-try for me, so I added it on as a supplement. As we can see in the photo, there was a lovely char on this one, along with a palpable sweet spice that made sense with the main ingredient. Excellent use of potatoes as well, and I much appreciated the zip of the onions too. My only concern was that the tentacle could've stood to be more tender in places.


Supplement: Pork Cheek Tonkatsu [$7.00] | Gold Rice Porridge, Cucumber Kimchi, Fried Quail Egg, Pickled Roasted Red Peppers
Another supplement brought out this pork cheek, which was sticky and gelatinous, loaded with the deep, dark, unabashedly porky flavors that you'd expect. The rice porridge was superb in providing a semblance of balance to the dish, though I would've liked to have tasted more from the kimchi.


3: Duck Heart Ravioli | Castelvetrano Purée, Kalamata Olives, Heirloom Tomato, Foraged Wood Sorrel
Tank 7 / Boulevard Brewing Company / Missouri
Ravioli were firm to the bite, with the pasta hiding a filling of intensely earthy, satisfying duck heart. The duo of olives here actually worked really well in complementing the bird, while the tartness of sorrel was key as a moderating force in the dish. Given the heft of the course, the bright, bracing flavors of the accompanying ale were very apropos.


4: Roasted Rabbit Loin | Toasted Bulgur, Cauliflower Purée, Baby Carrots, Pine Nuts
Andechser Doppelbock Dunkel / Klosterbrauerei Andechs / Germany
The final savory tonight was a deft presentation of rabbit, which I found quite satisfying, no doubt one of the better versions of the protein I've experienced. Cauliflower served as an effective counterweight to the meat, and the carrot I found an intriguing focal point in the dish. Bulgur, meanwhile, played a foil both in terms of taste and texture, though I didn't need quite so much of it.


5: Rum-Soaked Melon | Horchata Spiced Tapioca, Cantaloupe Sorbet, Vanilla Chiffon, Micro Cilantro
Palo Santo Marron / Dogfish Head Craft Brewery / Delaware
Dessert was fetching, the bright, sweet fruit and sorbet augmented by the boozy weight of rum, yet enveloped by the subtly sugary-spicy notes of the tapioca and chiffon. A really nice mélange of flavors here, brought out especially well by the chocolate-y, yet spicy notes of the paired beer.

Ah, if only I didn't have to go to work following this meal, I would've undergone a much more thorough examination of the beers here! That being said, I did get a nice taste, and Bailey's cooking is nothing to sneeze at either. It's an approachable, straightforward, yet polished sort of style that plays well into today's market-driven mantra. The beer really does stand up to the food (or is it the other way around?), and the combo is something I wouldn't mind exploring more.

Vidalia (Washington, DC)

September 27, 2013, 6:20 pm

≫ Next: Rogue 24 (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Birch & Barley (Washington, DC)

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Vidalia Restaurant
1990 M St NW, Washington, DC 20036
202.659.1990
www.vidaliadc.com
Fri 09/27/2013, 06:20p-08:25p



The fourth restaurant on my recent DC culinary tour was certainly one of the longest-lived. Vidalia was opened back in 1993 by Chef Jeffrey Buben and wife Sallie, and restaurant quickly made a name for itself as the place to go for modern American Southern cookery. It's a bit of an institution, and has served as the training ground for a number of the area's most well-known chefs, including CityZen's Eric Ziebold, Restaurant Eve's Cathal Armstrong, Rogue 24's R.J Cooper (Chef de Cuisine from 2004 to 2010), and Newton's Table's Peter Smith (CdC from '98 to '04).

About the Chef: A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America (class of '78), Jeff Buben got his start, unsurprisingly, in New York City, working at the likes of Le Cygne, Le Chantilly, Sign of the Dove, and The Pierre hotel before relocating to DC in 1984. There, he cooked at La Bagatelle, Nicholas at the Mayflower hotel, the Four Seasons Georgetown, and then became Executive Chef at Occidental Grill when it reopened in 1986. Buben stayed there until 1993, when he would leave and start Vidalia, inspired by the culinary heritage of wife Sallie. The restaurant was a hit, and quickly garnered praise by Bon Appétit as one of their "Best New Restaurants."

Given the success of Vidalia, Buben debuted Bistro Bis, a modern French bistro, in 1998, located at the Hotel George on Capitol Hill. This was followed by a nod from James Beard in the form of the "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" award the next year. The Bubens, however, were content on just having two restaurants until very recently. In November 2012, they opened Woodward Table, a more casual American eatery with a takeout component, housed inside the historic Woodward Building apartments, just steps from the White House.


Vidalia still resides in its original location, a space that's perhaps best known for being completely underground. The room is divided into a wine bar/lounge and a bi-level dining area, pictured above.


As far as Vidalia's menu goes, I opted for the five-course prix fixe at $80, comprised of a selection of the restaurant's more classic dishes. The "Chef Inspirations" features newer items from CdC Hamilton Johnson, and all plates can be ordered à la carte as well. Click for larger versions.


Amuse Bouche: roasted pepper panna cotta
First to arrive was a cuboid of roasted pepper panna cotta, which really showed off the light, vegetal brightness of the pepper, enhanced by just a smidge of sweetness to round things out.


Vidalia's bread basket is widely known to be one of the City's best, and for good reason. Housemade varieties included the trademark onion focaccia, cornbread, and potato bread, all served with a soft, sweet butter.


maximilliano [$12.00] | cimarron reposado tequila, st. germain, riesling, grapefruit chips
To drink, I went with cocktails this evening, and the first to bat was the Maximilliano, a light, refreshing libation that I found citrus-y and sweet initially, but with a boozy kick and a delicious undercurrent of Riesling character. A tasty one.


1: yellowtail hamachi | avocado mousseline, grapefruit gelée, country ham, honey vinaigrette, melon sorbet
A crudo of sorts was delectable indeed, the yellowtail arriving meaty and substantial, with a subtle, fishy fattiness that was tempered by the liberal use of fruit in the dish. Nice temperature contrast here as well, but my favorite part were the pricks of saltiness imparted by the crispy bits of ham tossed in. Quite nice.


2: oyster pan roast | chesapeake oysters, swiss chard, country ham, leeks, champagne cream, brioche
From something light and delicate, we move to something verging on decadent, one of the best cooked oyster dishes I've had in fact. The oysters themselves were masterfully prepared, coming out silky and slick, their brine fortunately still intact. To that, the luxuriousness of the accompanying broth was spot on, a rich, hearty, creamy liquid that paired with the bivalves in stellar fashion, interjected by flits of salt from the ham, all while the chard and leeks added a countervailing bitterness to the dish.


Supplement: jumbo lump crab cake [$18.00] | english peas, apricots, pancetta, scallions, sweet pepper butter
Another customer favorite is the crab cake, which, admittedly, I would've ordered as a supplement even if it weren't. It was a good-looking cake to be sure, and taste-wise it was on point as well, bringing forth a bevy of crabby, saline flavors that I was rather fond of. The peas, meanwhile, added a great touch of brightness to the course, and I appreciated the salty pancetta as well, but I could've done without the apricot, which I found distractingly saccharine.


kitty hawk [$12.50] | eldorado rum, leopold bros maraschino, sour, honey syrup, bittermans tiki bitters, ginger shortbread
The next cocktail was the Kitty Hawk, which, somewhat confusingly, came with two tabs of ginger shortbread. The drink itself conveyed a honeyed sort of sweetness, but one underscored by the boozy kick of the rum. I enjoyed the cookies as well, but I'm still befuddled as to why they were included in the first place.


Supplement: berkshire pork trotter [$15.50] | cuttlefish, andouille sausage, piquillo peppers, black garlic grits, sunny side egg
My second supplement was another winner. The trotter itself was as hefty and pork-y as you'd expect--in other words, delish. Add to that the spicy sausage, creamy egg, and fun bits of cuttlefish, and you've got a tasty little dish, all grounded by a base of garlic grits. Yum.


3: shrimp and grits | anson mill's grits, vidalia onion, spinach, tasso ham, tomato, shellfish emulsion
Next up was Vidalia's most famous dish, its take on the Southern classic shrimp 'n' grits. The actual shrimp, though, were a touch overdone, but still very tasty, with a strong salinity to 'em, augmented by the shellfish emulsion, that paired just swimmingly with the grits. Loved the slight bit of heat from the tasso as well, not to mention the countering astringency from the spinach.


the rose and briar [$12.00] | combier red fruits, sloop betty vodka, peychauds bitters, cava
My final cocktail of the night came in the form of The Rose and Briar. It was definitely the sweetest of the bunch, with an almost jammy quality to it that was nicely moderated by the bitterness of the Peychaud's and a crisp backbone of booze.


4: crisp duroc pork shank | butter poached shrimp, acorn squash, country ham, rice grits, swiss chard, béarnaise
A shank of Duroc hog was as crisp as advertised, which I appreciated, but the crispiest parts also tended to be dry. That being said, the flavors here were good, with the undeniably pork-y smack of the shank expertly paired with those creamy grits and luscious béarnaise, all while the chard served to balance things out a bit. I really didn't think that the sweetness of the squash was needed, though.


Desserts here at Vidalia are the charge of Pastry Chef Donna Yuen, who took over in September from longtime incumbent Beverly Bates (now at Woodward Table). Click for larger versions.


5: georgia pecan pie | bourbon ice cream, praline lace crumble, caramel
I had to stick with the tried-and-true and go with the pecan pie, a sweet, nutty, boozy creation that was as classic and comforting as you'd expect.


To close: various little mignardises, and a mint marshmallow.

Vidalia may not be as hip or happening as it was in its heyday, but I think the food's still worth a go, and the place obviously has lasting power. There's not much flash in the cooking per se, but there's plenty of substance in Buben and Hamilton's regional-American dishes, which blend Southern influences with just enough modernity to keep things interesting. It's a combination that's been sustaining the place for over 20 years, and I really don't see them stopping any time soon.

Rogue 24 (Washington, DC)

September 28, 2013, 6:00 pm

≫ Next: Kimukatsu (Culver City, CA)

≪ Previous: Vidalia (Washington, DC)

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Rogue 24
922 N St NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.408.9724
www.rogue24.com
Sat 09/28/2013, 06:00p-08:30p





Other than Minibar, one of the places that I'd really been looking forward to trying in DC was Rogue 24. The brainchild of Chef RJ Cooper, Rogue is a bit of an odd duck, housed in a nearly 90-year-old, garage-like building situated along Blagden Alley. The place opened in 2011, and I'd actually wanted to visit back then, but the Chef's controversial views on restaurant photography ("intellectual property theft" and all that) kept me away for fear of being chewed out. However, Cooper eventually softened his stance and gave up his fight against technology in early 2012, thus paving the way for my experience this evening.

About the Chef: R.J. Cooper III hails from Detroit, and got the cooking itch at a young age, watching his mother and grandmother do their thing in the kitchen. During high school, he apprenticed at a local bake shop, and later enrolled at Kendall College's School of Culinary Arts in Evanston, IL. After graduating in 1991, he quickly relocated to Atlanta, finding work at the Ritz-Carlton Downtown under Daniel Schaffhauser (now at Tender Greens in Pasadena, interestingly), the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead under Guenter Seeger, and Brasserie Le Coze under Gilbert Le Coze. From there, Cooper transitioned to Le Bernardin, where Le Coze was Chef/Owner until his untimely death in 1994. He stayed on through Eric Ripert's tenure there, then moved to Alaska for three years, where he turned around the Crow's Nest restaurant at the Hotel Captain Cook in Anchorage.

Cooper moved to DC in the late 1990's, cooking at The Oval Room and New Heights before taking the reins at Toka Cafe in early 2002. He stayed there until October 2004, when he assumed the Chef de Cuisine position at Jeffrey Buben's iconic Vidalia. It was there where the he really began making a name for himself, securing StarChefs'"Rising Star Chef" award in 2006 before winning "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" from James Beard the following year. Things were going comfortably until 2010, when Cooper had a life-changing meal at Bryan Voltaggio's Table 21 at Volt. Afterward, he instituted his own 24-course menu entitled Vidalia 24, but soon decided to leave the venerable restaurant, clocking out in June.

The initial idea was to open a more casual concept called Pigtails, a nod to the Chef's infatuation with pork as well as his own twin daughters. However, an investor--none other than Hilda Staples (Volt/Lunchbox/Family Meal/Range with Voltaggio, Graffiato/Kapnos with Mike Isabella)--convinced him to go the Rogue 24 route. Cooper took a break from the restaurant later that year to challenge Marc Forgione on Iron Chef America, losing in a bell pepper battle, then did a Rogue 24 preview/pop-up in New York in April 2011. Rogue eventually opened on July 27th to considerable controversy, all because of a contentious contract that diners were forced to sign, one that forbade camera and cell phone use, and subjected patrons to stiff cancellation penalties. The contract was quickly revised after the initial outrage, then removed altogether when reservations were transitioned over to the CityEats system. Things, however, continued to be rough for Cooper. His pastry team of Chris Ford and Gregory Baumgartner left in September, followed out the door by GM-slash-Sommelier Matthew Carroll in November. If that wasn't bad enough, the Chef soon found out that he had to undergo open-heart surgery in January to take care of a life-threatening genetic heart defect.

The surgery, fortunately, ended up going well, and in Cooper's absence, a slew of chefs took turns running the kitchen at Rogue 24, including heavy hitters such as Voltaggio and even José Andrés. After these so-called "Rogue Sessions," the Chef returned in March, and soon added on a shorter eight-course Evolution menu to complement the existing 16- and 24-course options. Further retooling following in August, when the 16-courser was axed, replaced by a four-course prix fixe with larger portions. The restaurant also announced a "gastro-bar concept" called RogueSpirits that was supposed to take over the space next door; however, this eventually morphed into SpiritsBar, a four-seat, reservations-required bar in the back of Rogue.

Currently, the team here at Rogue 24 includes Chef de Cuisine Mark McDonnell, Pastry Chef Giane Cavaliere, and Chef-Tender Bryan Tetorakis, who runs the aforementioned SpiritsBar. These days, Cooper's busy working on Gypsy Soul, his second solo project that's going to be set in the Mosaic District, a retail-residential development in Virginia's Fairfax/Merrifield area. In March, Cooper cooked a preview dinner at the James Beard House, but the restaurant is apparently held up in permitting hell, and is now targeting a spring 2014 debut.


Rogue 24 offers up three menu options: the 24-course Journey for $135 (what I had), the 16-course Progression for $115, and the four-course Prix Fixe for $75, all available with beverage pairings ranging in price from $55 to $120. And, as mentioned above, there's also the four-seater SpiritsBar and its mini tasting-cum-cocktail menu, which is ostensibly also available at the RogueSalon out front. Click for a larger version.


crossroads [$12.00] | belle meade bourbon/pink pepper/hibiscus/cola/lime
Given that I had work almost immediately following the meal, I eschewed the wine pairing in favor of a few of Bryan Tetorakis' cocktails. The first was the Crossroads, which had a medicinal tinge to it initially, laced with the tartness of lime. This then transitioned to the sugary-boozy influences from the Bourbon, while the finish was all about a sweet spiciness taking over. A very cool evolution of flavors in this long drink.


1: porcini | meringue/chicken liver/xo vinegar
This little dollop comprised a porcini meringue encasing chicken liver and sherry vinegar. It was a delicious start to the meal, the mushroom growing in intensity before giving way to the sweet, earthy essence of liver. A winning combination.


2: puff | prawn/whitefish/ossetra/dill
Cooper's elevated prawn cracker was divine, the slight ocean-y taste of the crisp chip beautifully augmented by the in-your-face saltiness of caviar. I wanted a whole bag of these.


3: kushi | cucumber/finger lime caviar
A singular Kusshi oyster showed off a strong salinity, one counteracted by the tangy vesicles of finger lime, all while the cucumber imbued the course with a clean, refreshing finish.


4: pinenut | arctic char roe/dill
Shortbread topped with char roe and dill was pretty fantastic, the sweetness of the cookie moving beautifully to the interplay between salty-smoky and herbaceous flavors.


5: chicharone | b.b.q. spice
Crunchy chicharrónes of pork belly, dusted with chili, were delish, the intensely earthy, porcine flavors here balanced by a creeping bit of spice.


6: shiso | rau-ram
A fried leaf of purple shiso was surprisingly substantial, and conveyed a rather profound savoriness to it that melded flawlessly with the piquant aioli of Vietnamese coriander.


7: lick of caviar
Smeared on a sort of palette (held in place via pinky) were a blini purée and various constituents of caviar. I was instructed to lick the plate in one fell swoop, and in doing so, the classic flavors of the roe were dutifully, accurately, and whimsically portrayed.


8: hamachi | fresno pepper/puffed barley/coconut/coriander
Cured yellowtail--served with a coconut espuma, microcilantro, puffed barley, and fresno chile--was delicious, and smart at the same time. The fish really worked well as a base to the dish, the coconut coming to the forefront initially before transitioning to contrasting flavors of lime, pepper, and what I believe was black bean.


9: avocado | sake salmon roe/cilantro/togarashi/lavash
Avocado brûlée arrived smudged atop a rock, dotted with ikura, togarashi, lemon, and olive oil. There was such a great amalgam of flavors here, of complementary creamy, tangy, and smoky nuances that came together in concert--I wanted to lick the rock when I was done. My only quibble? The lavash wasn't absolutely necessary, and seemed a touch stale to boot.


10: sepia | samphire/potato/ink/lime
Cuttlefish was pretty revelatory, probably the best presentation of the ingredient I've had in fact. Texturally, it was spot on, with a supple snap to it that I loved. Meanwhile, contrasting thrusts of potato, romesco, squid ink, and sea grass resulted in a harmony of seemingly classic, yet somehow modern flavors that perfectly highlighted the sepia.


bro hymm [$14.00] | botanist gin/apple brandy/amère nouvelle/pale ale/ginger
An apparent ode to Pennywise, the Bro Hymm was a tasty one as well: ginger-y and herb-y on the nose, with plenty of sweet apple and bitterness on the palate.


11: urchin | rice/seaweed/coffee
Next up: a bowl of uni with coffee espuma, lemon, and black rice. The dish was instantly Japanese-y in character, with the unflappable combo of urchin and seaweed conveyed against the astringent zip of the coffee, all while the rice imparted a lovely crunch and savor to things.


12: foie gras | consommé/honey/ice lettuce
Foie gras was expertly prepared, and displayed all the richness and lushness that you'd expect, set against the sweetness of the duck-onion broth and honeycomb crisps. It was a classic, effective combination, gorgeously balanced by the greenery on the plate. However, I would've liked a less crunchy consistency on the honeycomb, which seemed jarring at times texturally.


13: pigtails | bitter herbs/smoked peach gel
Pigtails (a nod to the Chef's former restaurant concept mayhaps?) managed to deliver in a big way as well. They were basically pork rillettes, a tender, satisfying, intensely piggy presentation of the star ingredient that paired superbly with the sweet-smoky peach gel and counterbalancing zing of the mustard.


14: salsify | oyster leaf/seaweed/oyster gel/salsify puree
Yaki salsify arrived in a bed of miso soil, along with oyster leaf and a purée of itself. Think an unabashedly earthy, smoky umami bomb, moderated by the various greenery on the plate.


15: lamb | sprouted lentils/wild yeast/mustard/rye
The lamb tartar was recommended by a server at the restaurant, and it turned out to be one of my favorites as well, and in fact, one of the best tartars I've had, ever. The gamy relish of the lamb was on proud display here, masterfully counteracted by the earthiness of those lentils, while the rice espuma and sorrel served as a balancing element. Really, a beautiful, somewhat contemplative set of flavors going on here.


steps ascend [$12.00] | flor de caña/bryan's tonic/pineapple/paprika/cilantro
Next to imbibe was the Steps Ascend, loaded with plenty of light, bright cilantro flavors and a body of tangy, boozy, and slightly astringent notes that all worked together in harmony. Fun and breezy.


16: matsutake | caramelized béchamel/wild rice
It was the start of matsutake season, so I was happy to see them presented, served here with a ginger gel, strawberry spinach, and black rice. The intense, woody perfume of the mushrooms was a joy to experience, and made perfect sense against the leafy bits on the plate. The rice, meanwhile, grounded the dish, and also provided an interesting textural component.


17: snails | potato/garlic threads
Another standout for me were the snails, some of the tastiest I've had no doubt. They were actually of the basil-fed variety, and set here in a potato-based broth. I loved the herbaceousness that these little guys had, which paired with the rich, heady, onion-broth in stellar fashion. Great bits of gnocchi in there, too.


18: sorrel stems | horseradish juice/red cabbage
Next, sorrel was plated in a red cabbage gazpacho, resulting in a creamy, tangy, somewhat bitter blast of flavors that were smartly accented by the savory veal(?) "fibers" present.


19: pigeon | rice/offal/orange/hazelnut
The last savory brought out an excellent rendition of squab, one shown with a wild rice "paella" and orange espuma. The bird itself was intensely aromatic, and just full of flavor. I found it delicious alone, and even better when taken with the hearty rice (which I could've easily eaten a whole bowl of) and slight citrus-y tang of orange.


20: goat curd | nasturtium/espelette/sour dough
Acting as the cheese course was a puddle of chèvre, garnished with lavash, nasturtium, and espelette. The curd I rather liked, its sweet, tangy taste working hand-in-hand with the crunchy, savory bits of sourdough, all while the nasturtium lent an overarching brightness to the course. Pretty neat.


amalie [$12.00] | cruzan rum/cardamaro/banana/demerara/cardamom/maraschino
To pair with dessert, I ordered up an Amalie, a surprisingly stiff, yet saccharine concoction with an almost tropical essence to it, underscored by hints of banana.


21: cucumber | tapioca/pineapple/coconut
Time for the sweet stuff. Here, cucumber was presented in both meringue and gel forms, along with pineapple, coconut, and a rice espuma. The key were was that interplay between cucumber and coconut, a cool, light combo that just worked, tarted up by pinpoints of pineapple.


22: blueberry | vanilla/pistachio
The blueberry dessert--with moscato cream, vanilla panna cotta, and a lime air--was even better. That panna cotta especially was pretty amazing, showing of classic flavors with a countervailing citric tang, a lovely complement to the sugary blueberries in the dish. Loved the nutty, salty, crunchy bits of pistachio, too.


23: strawberry | chocolate/balsamic
The most substantial dessert of the trio was probably my favorite as well. Here, a chocolate-raspberry mousse was joined by strawberry-balsamic sorbet and dark chocolate crumbles. It was a satisfying, though not entirely unexpected commixture of fruity, sweet flavors against a subtle chocolate base, with the crumbles actually adding a wonderful savory hit to things.


24: happy endings | little things/small bites
Finally, the requisite mignardises: guava shortbread, kalamansi pâte de fruit, peanut butter-fudge, orange-chocolate (my favorite of the fivesome), and white chocolate-coconut.

All the drama surrounding the place aside, Cooper and his team really did deliver a great meal. The cooking was contemplative at times, but delicious almost always, a commingling of disparate influences, of classic flavor profiles and modernist technique that somehow comes together to form a cohesive whole. I'm really glad I made the decision to come out here. Think of Rogue 24 as a break from the ordinary, but still grounded in tradition, and, at $135, think of it as a downright bargain too.

Kimukatsu (Culver City, CA)

October 10, 2013, 6:30 pm

≫ Next: Zo (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Rogue 24 (Washington, DC)

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Kimukatsu Restaurant
4130 Sepulveda Blvd, Culver City, CA 90230
310.876.1436
www.kimukatsu.com/kimukatsu_eng
Thu 10/10/2013, 6:30p-08:10p



The first real dinner following my recent marathon trip to DC was here at Kimukatsu, an outpost of a well-known Japanese tonkatsu chain that debuted in September. The company operates multiple locations in Japan, Seoul, and even Honolulu (including a takeaway stall called Kimukatsutei), but this is their first mainland US location; a sister restaurant is supposed to open on Sawtelle in the coming weeks. What sets them apart is the way that they construct their cutlets. Instead of using the typical whole pork loin or filet, the meat is sliced thin and stacked 25 layers high, then coated in the usual panko and fried, resulting in a very different eating experience.



Above, we see Kimukatsu's current menu, which features six variations of the signature pork cutlet, as well as numerous sides and accompaniments. The drink selection is a bit disappointing at the moment, but the owners are indeed working on acquiring a beer and wine license and will eventually be offering up sake-based cocktails. Click for larger versions.


The Kimura Ramune [$4] was clearly the most interesting of the beverages being offered, its soft, refreshing, vaguely-citrusy flavors serving as a good match to the meat-heavy courses to follow.


Potato Salad [$6.50] | Classic Japanese style potato salad with sausage
I'm a sucker for potato salad, and Kimukatsu's certainly fit the bill. I found it lush, creamy, somewhat thin, with the sausage adding a definite heft to the dish. My favorite part, though, was the use of the crunchy, super savory bits on top (bacon?).


Tatsuta Age [$6.50] | Japanese Style Fried Chicken
Fried chicken was a must-try, natch. Compared to the more common kara-age, the tatsuta-age here emphasizes the use of a shoyu-based marinade, and also utilizes potato starch in place of wheat flour. The end result is a thoroughly juicy, tender bird, with a more substantial depth of flavor than one typically finds. Very nice.


Agedashi Tofu [$5.50] | Deep Fried Tofu with Sweet Sauce
I was curious about Kimukatsu's age dofu as well. Taste-wise, it was on point, with the delicate flavors of the tofu melding well with the classic, comforting nuances of its accompanying tentsuyu broth. Texturally, though, I wanted it to be crisper to the bite, instead of the sort of gooey, mucilaginous consistency it demonstrated.


Ground Kobe Beef Katsu [$5.00] | Fried 100% Kobe Beef
A menchi-katsu of "Kobe" beef was delicious: juicy and hot, just brimming with bovine flavors dutifully tempered by the subtle astringency of what I believe was scallion.


Fried Prawn [$7.00]
Sticking with the fried theme, the ebi furai was also a winner, the shrimp coming out particularly tender, with a delicate brine that worked out well with a blast of lemon and a dab of the included tartar-like condiment (which I believe was the same used in the nanban below).


Rice Set [$4.50] | Rice, Miso Soup and Japanese Pickles
At this point, we were done with the appetizers and ready for tonkatsu. Accoutrements consisted of white rice, a classic miso soup, shredded cabbage, and some crunchy, tart tsukemono pickles.


The cutlets, of course, can be purchased separately, but we went for the Value Combo of three for $39 (a $6 savings).


Original [$15.00]
Naturally, we had to give Kimukatsu's Original a shot given that it was our first time here. It was quite unlike any other tonkatsu I've had. The meat was uncommonly light, almost fluffy, with a subtle, yet very porky savor and a juicy, yet somehow dry consistency to it. The batter was appropriately airy as well, giving the cutlet a surprising verve that I appreciated. I can definitely see the appeal here.


Nanban [$18.00] | Flavor with a Sweet Ponzu Soy Sauce with Tartar Sauce
To the standard cutlet above, the Nanban variation offered up a tart 'n' tangy tartar sauce. It was a creamy, fairly substantial addition that definitely imparted a more aggressive flavor profile to the meat.


Garlic [$15.00]
Last up was the Garlic incarnation, which was like the standard cutlet, but with a very subtle undercurrent of garlicky goodness.


Shingen Ice [$5.50] | Vanilla ice cream Topped with Sweetened Soy Bean Powder and Brown Sugar Cane syrup
Dessert included a bowl of vanilla aisukurimu, doused with mitsu syrup and a sprinkle of kinako roasted soy flour. Taken together, it was all rather pleasing, the sweetness of the particularly thick ice cream augmented by the sugary syrup, all while the soy powder added a nutty, tempering counterpoint to the dish.


Black Sesame Pudding with Whipped Cream [$5.50]
Here, the pudding itself had a light, liquid-y consistency to it that I'm not sure I liked. Its taste, meanwhile, I found very delicate, so that dollop of inky black sesame was key in providing assertiveness to the dessert.

I walked away from Kimukatsu pretty satisfied. Their signature pork cutlet was impressive, one of the stronger preparations I've had I'm sure, and the rest of the menu delivered as well for the most part. The place does need a liquor license, pronto, and another thing that I'd like to see is some sort of curry-based katsu kare variant on the menu (a lunch-only option at the moment from what I understand). Otherwise, things seem to be coming along quite nicely here.