Fishing with Dynamite (Manhattan Beach, CA)

May 9, 2013, 5:00 pm

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Fishing with Dynamite Restaurant
1148 Manhattan Ave, Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
310.893.6299
www.eatfwd.com
Sun 05/04/2013, 05:00p-10:40p





When he debuted MB Post back in 2011, David LeFevre ushered in a new era of dining in Manhattan Beach, providing a glimpse of culinary legitimacy to the oft-derided South Bay. Not surprisingly, given the success of the place, the Chef has followed up with his sophomore effort, the controversially-named Fishing with Dynamite, an East Coast-West Coast seafood joint opened in partnership with the Post's Mike Simms (Tin Roof Bistro, Simmzy's). The concept debuted on April 30th, and makes absolute sense given LeFevre's background. He spent childhood summers on the shores of Virginia, and, of course, was the head chef at Los Angeles' venerable Water Grill for many years (replacing Michael Cimarusti), so seafood is practically in his veins. He is joined here by MB Post Beverage Director Jerry Garbus and Pastry Chef Craig Poirier (of Top Chef: Just Desserts fame), while Jamie Boalbey takes up General Manager duties.


FwD occupies the building that once held the longstanding Italian eatery Talia's. The layout remains the same, but the room was revamped by Julie Fisher and Rachel Crowl of FC Studio. The 36-seat, 1,100-sqft space has been whitewashed and decorated with the Chef's own art pieces, and recalls the character of a cozy beachside cottage.


The Fishing with Dynamite menu features a comprehensive raw bar selection in addition to both old- and new-school seafood items, as well as "no school" plates and "after school" desserts. To drink, you'll find a nice array of beers all on draught, as well as a smattering of cocktails as well. Click for larger versions.


If wine's more your thing, you should be well-served given FwD's surprisingly lengthy list. Click for larger versions.


Regalo de Dios [$12.00] | sour w/ hacienda de chihuahua, strawberry, rhubarb & serrano
To kick things off, I went with the Regalo de Dios, a sotol-based concoction that came recommended by one of the bartenders. He didn't lead me astray, as it was actually quite nice, with the sweetness of the fruit melding well with the booze, all while the serrano added a prickly undercurrent of heat to things. Will sotol be the new mezcal?


Sampler Platter [$18.25] | ponzu, mignonette, cocktail, horseradish, lemon
Of course, in a place like this you pretty much have to start with oysters. Keeping with the East-West theme, both coasts were well represented here. From the West, we had Pacific Gold (Morro Bay, CA), Kusshi (Deep Bay, BC), and Kumamoto (Willapa Bay, WA), while the East Coast was represented by Fisher Island (Fisher Island, NY), Duxbury Bay (Duxbury, MA), and Wellfleet (Cape Cod, MA). Each oyster was spot on--no shell, no grit, bright, bracing, and full of liquor--and though I'm usually a West Coast kind of guy, the ones from back East made a stellar showing, and in fact, my favorite of the bunch just might've been the Fisher Island. They could all easily stand alone, but the homemade accoutrements were much appreciated as well, with the ponzu and mignonette being particularly enjoyable. I even appreciated the little card they give you with the platter, which ensures you don't forget which oyster is which.


Jumbo Shrimp [$15.00] / Peruvian Scallops [$2.00] | yuzu koshu mayo, cocktail, remoulade
Keeping with the raw bar theme, next up were shrimp and scallops. The shrimp were just what you'd expect: cool, sweet, dense, and great with a dab of cocktail sauce (though the yuzukosho mayo made an impression as well). The scallop, meanwhile, was more intriguing, with a bit of citrus that added a lovely acidity and tartness to the mix.


Crispy Sword Squid [$13.00] | lemon, cauliflower, zucchini, harissa spiced marinara, yuzu koshu mayo
The ubiquitous dish of fried calamari was done proud. I really appreciated how the squid was so truthfully presented--no overbattering here, with its sweet, saline taste and supple consistency front and center. I enjoyed the rings alone, but the included dipping sauces certainly weren't left untouched either.


New England Clam Chowdah' [$6.00] | neuske's bacon, weiser farm potatoes, house made oyster crackers
LeFevre's chowder, not surprisingly, reminded me of the one at Water Grill, and that's not a bad thing. It really was one of the tastiest preparations I've had, with a great interplay between the taters and salty bacon, all while the clams added an overarching brininess to the fray. Loved the crunch of the crackers, too.


Maryland Blue Crab Cake [$16.00] | in-house dill pickles, whole grain mustard remoulade
Crab cakes were also very good. I often complain that there's too much filler in crab cakes, but that wasn't the case here. Instead, the crab meat was deftly presented, conveying a sweet brine that was perked up by the inclusion of mustard. I quite liked the housemade pickles here as well, which added a nice hit of acidity and texture.


Grilled Octopus [$19.00] | white beans, date-tomato ragu, preserved lemon, kalamata olive tapenade
The octopus, meanwhile, was one of my favorites of the evening. Texturally, it was on point, and I loved the bitterness of the char and how it worked with the octopus' inherent goodness, all while the ragu and tapenade added further points of interest to the flavor profile. The beans were lovely here as well, grounding the dish and adding a palpable heft to things.


Rag Doll [$12.00] | fizz w/old grove, blueberry, rosemary, egg & violet
The next cocktail was advertised as Chef LeFevre's favorite, so naturally I had to give it a go. I can see why, as it really was quite lovely, with a fantastic interplay between the sugariness of the berry and the aromatic nuances from the rosemary and violet.


Thai Shellfish & Coconut Soup [$11.00] | shrimp, mussel, rice noodles, kaffir lime leaf, coriander
At this point, we transitioned to the new-school portion of the menu. First up was this Thai-inspired soup, which really did a wonderful job in capturing the essence of a tom kha-style potage. Each item of seafood here was expertly presented, and I loved the aromatic broth, which I eagerly supped up at the end.


Spicy Albacore Tuna Tartare [$12.00] | shrimp chips, asian pear, kimchi furikake
The tuna tartar is perhaps passé at this point, but LeFevre did manage to breathe some new life into the dish by looking towards Asia. The incorporation of furikake offered up a delectably savory, spicy component to the course that really united well with the fish, all while the Asian pear provided brightness, acidity, and crispness. I quite liked the shrimp chips here as well, which were great for scooping up the tartar.


Grilled Asparagus [$8.00] | bearnaise, tarragon
Asparagus was classic in preparation, with the crisp, bitter spears keenly complemented by that creamy Béarnaise.


Roasted Steelhead Trout [$14.00] | lemongrass yogurt, capers, sultanas, turmeric cauliflower
Steelhead arrived beautifully done--moist, flaky, and immensely flavorful--with a delightfully crisp, savory skin. I would've had no problem enjoy the trout all by itself, but the cauliflower imparted a curry-esque flair to the dish that offered up an unexpected counterpoint to the fish.


Original Gangster [$12.00] | boulevardier w/ white dog, aperol, vya sweet & grapefruit
The Original Gangster was the booziest of the cocktails, but much to my liking at the same time, with a fantastic bittersweet component to go against the intensity of the whiskey. Nice!


Confit Pork Belly [$14.00] | anson mills white corn grits, bitter greens, green tomato chutney
You might be wary of ordering pork at a seafood joint, but then you'd be missing out. As we know from the Post, LeFevre knows his way around meat, and this was some serious belly: tender, yet with a nice crust, and just teeming with porcine goodness. The use of grits couldn't really be faulted, and the greens added a well-placed blast of astringency to the fray.


Creamy Polenta [$6.00] | parmesan reggiano, mascarpone, rosemary
No complaints about the cheesy, creamy polenta either. It was a paradigmatic presentation of the dish, heightened by the incorporation of rosemary.


Maple Pudding with Rosemary Sandies [$6.00] | buffalo trace bourbon, candied pecans
The first of Poirier's desserts was a delightful maple pudding. I reveled in the sheer, sugary heft of the pudding, augmented by some boozy notes from the Buffalo Trace, all while the pecans conveyed a sweet, nutty crunch. And those rosemary sandies? Delish.


Key Lime Pie [$7.00] | graham cracker crust and kaffir lime meringue
I kept hearing good things about the key lime pie, but my high hopes were quickly dashed. In the only real misstep of the night, the crust on the pie was ridiculously hard. And by ridiculous, I mean that repeated stabbing motions with the pointy end of a fork weren't even enough to break through it. News of this eventually made its way to the Chef (via Patina's Corporate Pastry Chef Carlos Enriquez, who just happened to be dining here this evening), and he ended up 86'ing the dish altogether. A real shame, as the filling and meringue were pretty much spot on.


Pretzel and Chocolate Bread Pudding [$8.00] | salted caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream
We closed with our favorite of the trio. It was a masterful preparation of bread pudding, one of the tastiest I've had no doubt, with a fantastic blend of sweet and savory flavors from the chocolate and pretzel combo that combined flawlessly with the ice cream. Despite being rather stuffed by this point, I just wanted to keep eating. This is the dessert to get.

Despite this being only the fifth day of service, Fishing with Dynamite is already humming along just fine. Other than that impenetrable key lime pie, the food really delivered exactly what the Chef promised: an appealing amalgam of old-school and new-school sensibilities that draws inspiration from the East Coast, West Coast, and abroad. It's a smart combination that I think will do very well, and judging from how packed the place was, I'm guessing I'm not the only one who believes that. Looks like LeFevre's got another winner on his hands, and for that, the South Bay should be thankful.

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Steak Tasting

May 11, 2013, 3:00 pm

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New York Strip Steak Tasting
Sat 05/11/2013, 03:00p-09:00p



Introduction:

This has been a long time coming. Several of my friends and I had been talking about doing a steak tasting for a while now, so this past weekend we finally muscled up the gumption to actually go through with it. We purchased nine NY strip loins from a wide variety of vendors ranging from ultra high-end mail order companies to local butcher shops to mainstream chain retailers. The steaks are summarized in the table below, sorted in descending order of price:

Steak Name	Price/lb	Price	Weight	Thickness	Aging	Grade	Notes
Flannery California Reserve New York Steak	$55.78/lb	$62.75	18oz (advertised)	1 3/4" (1 1/2" advertised)	4-week dry aged	Prime	Additional shipping charges may apply.
Pat LaFrieda 50 Day Dry-Aged USDA Prime Black Angus Bone-In NY Strip Steak	$48.89/lb	$55.00	18oz (advertised)	2" (1 1/2" advertised)	50-day dry aged	Prime	No antibiotics, hormones, or growth promoting drugs. Fed grass/hay and finished on corn. De-boned prior to shipment. $20 shipping charge not included in price.
Flannery Midwestern New York Steak	$43.11/lb	$48.50	18oz (advertised)	1 7/8" (1 1/2" advertised)	4-week dry aged	Prime	Additional shipping charges may apply.
Lindy & Grundy NY Strip 6 Week Aged	$41.00/lb	$41.82	16.32oz	1 5/8" (1 1/2" requested)	6-week dry aged	Ungraded	Organic. No antibiotics, hormones, or pesticides. 100% grass fed and grass finished. De-boned by request at point of purchase.
Beef Palace Extra Dry-Aged Prime NY Strip	$25.99/lb	$19.70	12oz	1 5/8" (1 1/2" requested)	3-week dry aged	Prime
Whole Foods Dry Aged Porterhouse Steak	$21.99/lb	$34.96	25.44oz	1 1/2"	4-week dry aged	Prime	Vegetarian diet with no antibiotics or added growth hormones. Was purchased as a trimmed and de-boned porterhouse.
Costco Kirkland Signature Prime New York Steak	$11.99/lb	$9.07	12.11oz	1 1/4"	Unknown	Prime	Blade tenderized.
Ralphs Select Boneless New York Steak	$10.99/lb	$13.74	20oz	1 7/8" (1 1/2" requested)	Yes, wet aged	Select	Custom cut and not pre-packaged.
Walmart Choice New York Strip Steak	$10.48/lb	$8.54	13.04oz	1 1/8"	Yes	Choice

Methodology:


In an attempt to eliminate bias, we tried to do the tasting as blind as possible. As such, what I did was remove the steaks from their packaging, lay them out bare on plates, and assign a letter to each one (as seen on the piece of paper to the left). The person actually cooking the meat then came in and, not knowing my letter assignment and thus which steak was which, randomly assigned a number to each letter (the paper on the right), keeping the mapping away from me. In effect, we had a two-part "encryption" method wherein no one person would know both parts of the "key" necessary to relate the name of the steak with its assigned number. The two "keys" were only put together at the end of the tasting.


With that out of the way, another member of the tasting party seasoned all sides of each steak with a mixture of ground pink Himalayan salt and Tellicherry peppercorn.


The steaks were then sealed in plastic bags using a FoodSaver V3240 vacuum sealer.


During the prep process, we sampled the Pappy Van Winkle's 20yr Family Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey that one of the tasters brought. Good stuff!


With all the meat prepped and ready to go, we plopped the bags into a PolyScience immersion circulator. The steaks were cooked sous vide at 123°F for at least two hours, then finished on cast iron (one minute on the top and bottom, then 30 seconds for the sides) with butter immediately prior to serving.


The steaks were selected in random order, finished, sliced, photographed, and then sliced some more into bite-size pieces.


The meat was then brought to the table for our nine tasters to sample, identified merely by a number. Tasters were provided Shun knives and score sheets, which were collected at the end of the evening and tabulated. Along with the steak, we were also served mashed potatoes and a simple salad.


In a nod toward consistency, we all drank the same wine throughout the tasting, the Scholium Project Gardens of Babylon, a bright, lively Petite Sirah-based California blend that stood up well to the meat without overshadowing it. Water was also provided, in addition to cola for the teetotaler in the group.

Results:

The steaks are shown below in the order that they were tasted. I'll present my personal thoughts on each before delving into the aggregate results.


#10 - Flannery California Reserve New York Steak
We got started with what was easily the most expensive (and most beautiful) steak of the group. What the price bought you was some pretty incredible marbling, in fact probably the most marbling I'd ever seen in a non-wagyu-style steak. The result of this was a super intense, super fatty flavor that was delicious, but at the same time, almost too much. The issue here, though, was the texture, which was quite chewy at times. This could've greatly benefitted from some more cooking.


#5 - Pat LaFrieda 50 Day Dry-Aged USDA Prime Black Angus Bone-In NY Strip Steak
Next was the second priciest steak, from famed New York butcher Pat LaFrieda. This one showed off an almost foie gras-esque richness and lushness to it, and just oozed fat upon mastication. Unfortunately, it also suffered from the textural problems witnessed in the Flannery above, but was overall more balanced and easier-eating.


#1 - Costco Kirkland Signature Prime New York Steak
The Costco steak shined in the area of texture, especially compared to the two preceding cuts. It was obviously much more restrained in character, with a slight nuttiness and a nice crust, and was something that I'd have no problem eating a large portion of.


#9 - Beef Palace Extra Dry-Aged Prime NY Strip
Beef Palace is a well-regarded butcher located in sunny Huntington Beach, CA. I'd heard some great things about the place, and its product did not disappoint. I actually found it quite similar to the Kirkland steak, and also rated it highly.


#8 - Walmart Choice New York Strip Steak
The Walmart steak pleasantly surprised most of us, myself included, despite being the thinnest of the bunch. It had a great sear and char, and was balanced, mild, and non-offensive in presentation. There wasn't a huge amount of flavor here, but I really didn't mind eating it.


#4 - Whole Foods Dry Aged Porterhouse Steak
I'd had Whole Foods steaks before, and they'd always been solid. This was no exception, displaying a very well-integrated fattiness and a delectable earthiness on the close.


#3 - Flannery Midwestern New York Steak
For me, the second Flannery entry also suffered from the same problems we saw in the first, which, unfortunately, was likely a byproduct of our methodology rather than an inherent flaw in the meat. That being said, the steak was certainly flavorful, but parts of it seemed strangely bland at times.


#7 - Lindy & Grundy NY Strip 6 Week Aged
Upon biting into the L&G, I knew instantly that this was grass-fed. The eating experience is just that different. The flavor here was intense to say the least, with a grassy, almost seaweed-like taste that's certainly not for everyone (though I'm ok with it). Texturally, I found this surprisingly pleasing despite the leanness of the meat.


#2 - Ralphs Select Boneless New York Steak
We ended with a USDA Select cut from Ralphs, which is probably representative of your typical supermarket steak. It was definitely on the lean side, though I thought it was surprisingly juicy. Taste-wise, I wasn't in love, deeming the meat minerally and austere, with a nutty tinge. It was my least favorite of the bunch.

Now that we have my thoughts out of the way, we'll take a look at the aggregate data for the entire group. In the table below, I show the average (mean) values for all the steaks across each category, as well as the resultant rankings. I also have some select comments from the other tasters, some of which were quite eye-opening.

Steak Name	Taste	Texture	Looks	Total	Overall Rank	Taste Rank	Texture Rank	Other Tasters' Comments
Flannery California Reserve New York Steak	11.1	6.4	4.1	21.7	6	4	9	Rubbery. Meaty. Wagyu like. Very chewy.
Pat LaFrieda 50 Day Dry-Aged USDA Prime Black Angus Bone-In NY Strip Steak	12.3	7.3	3.9	23.5	3	2	8	Beautiful beefy flavor. Firm. Tastes like steak.
Flannery Midwestern New York Steak	12.1	8.2	4.2	24.5	2	3	2	Buttery but a touch gritty. Lil' earthy.
Lindy & Grundy NY Strip 6 Week Aged	7.1	7.4	3.6	18.1	9	9	7	Super grassy. Intensely earthy. Livery. Steely, seaweed. Eww.
Beef Palace Extra Dry-Aged Prime NY Strip	10.8	7.8	3.9	22.4	4	5	4	Non offensive. Yummy.
Whole Foods Dry Aged NY Strip	12.3	8.6	4.0	24.9	1	1	1	Fatty. Not intense. Super good.
Costco Kirkland Signature Prime New York Steak	10.1	8.1	3.3	21.6	7	7	3	Grainy. Meh.
Ralphs Select Boneless New York Steak	10.2	7.5	4.0	21.7	5	6	5	Ultra nutty. Juicy. Super beefy. Steely. Pretty good.
Walmart Choice New York Strip Steak	8.8	7.4	3.4	19.6	8	8	6	Not much flavor. Texture is good. Tastes of butter. Not as yummy.

Though the rankings are obviously important, they're only part of the story, and I think it's also worthwhile to take a look at the variability in the scores:

Steak Name	Range (High - Low Scores)				Standard Deviation				Relative Standard Deviation
	Taste	Texture	Looks	Total	Taste	Texture	Looks	Total	Taste	Texture	Looks	Total
Flannery California Reserve New York Steak	2	5	2	5	0.8	1.4	0.9	1.8	7%	22%	23%	8%
Pat LaFrieda 50 Day Dry-Aged USDA Prime Black Angus Bone-In NY Strip Steak	4	2.5	2	5	1.2	1.0	0.9	1.7	10%	14%	24%	7%
Flannery Midwestern New York Steak	5	4	2	11	2.0	1.7	1.0	4.2	17%	21%	23%	17%
Lindy & Grundy NY Strip 6 Week Aged	10	3	1	12	3.1	1.1	0.5	3.8	44%	14%	15%	21%
Beef Palace Extra Dry-Aged Prime NY Strip	8	3	2	11	2.6	1.1	0.8	3.7	24%	14%	20%	17%
Whole Foods Dry Aged NY Strip	3	3	2	8	1.3	1.1	0.9	2.8	11%	13%	22%	11%
Costco Kirkland Signature Prime New York Steak	5	4	1	7	1.6	1.4	0.5	2.5	16%	17%	15%	11%
Ralphs Select Boneless New York Steak	6	3	2	9	2.2	1.1	0.9	3.4	21%	14%	22%	16%
Walmart Choice New York Strip Steak	4	5	3	8	1.4	1.7	0.9	2.8	16%	23%	26%	14%

Conclusions:

• Whole Foods snags the win here, coming in first overall, as well as for the subratings of taste and texture. I'm positing that their secret for success was that the steak was generally very enjoyable to all the tasters, almost serving as a sort of "middle ground" with its tender, non-gristle-y consistency, moderate fattiness, and pleasing, though not overbearing flavor. There was nothing to dislike about the steak, and indeed, all of the tasters rated it at least moderately high.
• The correlation between deliciousness and price wasn't as strong as we were expecting. Even the least expensive, commodity steaks of the bunch were serviceable. Hell, the Ralphs Select came in in fifth place (though personally, it was my least favorite of the bunch).
• As far as appearance went, all the steaks looked relatively similar when cooked, so next time, I'd probably skip the "Looks" subrating. Going even further, perhaps we should eliminate subratings altogether and just go with an overall score. Keep it simple right?
• Looking at the variability data, we see that people tended to be in agreement about the LaFrieda and the Flannery California Reserve, while the Lindy & Grundy was undeniably polarizing, as was the Walmart steak.
• We aimed for a consistent 1.5" thickness across all the steaks, but this was difficult to enforce in practice. We found that the NY strips were, in every case, thicker than specified.
• In certain cases, there was a large disparity between a steak's taste and texture scores. For example, the Flannery California Reserve scored well on taste, but was dead last for texture; the LaFrieda was even starker in that regard. On the other hand, the Costco steak fared far better in texture than taste.
• I'm sure that part of the inconsistencies in the bullet point above was due to our cooking methods. The super-premium steaks--the Flannery and LaFrieda--were all rather fatty, and thus could've benefitted from a higher temperature setting on the immersion circulator, something closer to 130°F. This would've done a better job of cooking and integrating the marbling, which would likely get rid of complaints that the steaks were overly firm and chewy. Unfortunately, doing so would probably overcook many of the other steaks. In any case, I do believe that the LaFrieda and Flannery were shortchanged somewhat, and could've done much better.
• As the sole grass-fed steak in the lot, the Lindy & Grundy bore the brunt of the tasters' unfamiliarity with the meat. Grass-fed steaks account for only a small percentage of the beef market, and most people simply have a hard time accepting the significantly different flavor profile of the meat, which I'm sure was only amplified by the six-week dry aging we had here. It's a leaner, healthier type of beef that's also better for the animals and the environment, but is definitely an acquired taste as we've seen here. Just look at the huge 44% RSD value for its taste rating; some people really didn't like it. I'm not surprised at the result, but for next time, perhaps an unaged grass-fed cut would fare better.

We had a blast holding this steak tasting, and I'm glad I enforced a bit of rigor to the process, which made for some enlightening results. I'm satisfied with how things turned out, but I think we definitely had some lessons learned as well about how we'd do things differently next time (and I'm pretty sure there will be a next time, I'm thinking with rib eyes). For Steak Tasting 2.0, what should we change? Which other steak purveyors should be included in the comparison?

Sotto (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

May 17, 2013, 6:00 pm

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Sotto Restaurant
9575 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90035
310.277.0210
www.sottorestaurant.com
Sun 04/21/2013, 06:00p-08:50p



When it opened two years ago, Steve Samson and Zach Pollack's Sotto made quite a splash on the Italian scene here in LA, offering up a chef-driven restaurant dedicated to the bounties of Southern Italian cooking. Personally, I was rather smitten by this keenly regional approach to the cuisine, and figured that it was a time for a revisit.


Sotto's menu remains firmed rooted in Southern Italian traditions, and features a line-up of standbys (e.g. the octopus and mackerel) joined by a rotating selection of new creations. To drink, you can't go wrong with the cocktails here, while the wine list--curated by Wine Director Jeremy Parzen and Wine Captain Rory Harrington--features a smart selection of eclectic, reasonably-prices vinos from Italy and California. Click for larger versions.


Housemade bread [$9.00] | burrata
Housemade bread [$9.00] | coppa di testa
Housemade bread [$7.00] | lardo pestato
Bread is baked in-house using residual heat from the restaurant's vaunted pizza oven, and arrived toasty, smoky, and charred. It was tasty alone, but you have to try the various toppings, the most famous of which is the lardo pestato, affectionately known as pork butter. The spread was as satisfying as it sounds, but the burrata was on point as well, and the coppa di testa was marvelous: slick, spicy, fatty, and just brimming with pork-y sapor.


Chickpea panelle [$6.00] | lemon, Ragusano
Next up was Sotto's signature snack of Sicilian chickpea fritters. They were fun little bites, crisp on the outside, fluffy on the inside, loaded with a straightforward savory character, amped up by the salty Ragusano, and topped off by a hit of lemon-y tang.


La Camorra [$12.00] | Rittenhouse rye whiskey, Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac, Campari, Carpano Antica, orange twist
Fly By Night [$12.00] | Sheep Dip Scotch, Saler's Gentian liqueur, King's Ginger, Angostura and Peychaud's bitters, grapefruit essence
Return of the Daq (OMG!) [$12.00] | Smith and Cross rum, Zucca rabarbaro, fresh lime juice, Maraska maraschino, fragola
Sotto's cocktail program--the work of Julian Cox and Nick Meyer these days--has always been worthy of praise, so naturally we had to have a few to begin. Based on our server's recommendation, I went with the La Camorra and wasn't disappointed. It was a stout concoction, classic in essence with a great balance of boozy, bitter, and sweet-aromatic flavors perked up with just a bit of citrus-y flair. The Fly By Night was a success as well, with a slight smokiness and a lovely mix of ginger and grapefruit nuances. My favorite of the bunch was the Return of the Daq (OMG!), a riff on the daiquiri that served up a perfect balance of sugary and astringent flavors over a base of Smith & Cross.


Grilled pork meatballs [$11.00] | snap peas, pecorino, bitter greens
I normally shy away from ordering meatballs, often finding them uninspired, but my god, these were the best I've ever had. They came out utterly juicy and brimming with piggy goodness, offset by just a whisper of char. The meatballs were fantastic alone, but I appreciated the tempering effect of the greenery here as well. You need to get this.


Pittule Pugliese [$6.00] | vincotto, ricotta
Next up were globules of fried dough--dense, filling nuggets with a savory yet slightly sweet taste to 'em that paired well with the sweet vincotto (grape must condiment) and creamy-cool ricotta.


Tomato-braised octopus ai ferri [$16.00] | chickpeas, preserved lemon, chard, bottarga
Between this and the version at Bestia, I gotta say that the Italians have got a way with polpo. It was flawlessly cooked, coming out tender, yet still with a bit of bite and a wonderfully crisp crust, redolent of smoky char notes. The bottarga, meanwhile, served to amplify the natural brine of the octopus, and I loved the moderating effect and textural play of the garbanzos as well. A must-try.


Casarecce [$16.00] | braised lamb ragu, egg, pecorino
Our first pasta was of the rolled variety. The casarecce arrived properly firm to the bite, and worked flawlessly against the hearty, meaty ragu, while the egg and cheese added further lusciousness to the dish. Hard not to enjoy this one.


We transitioned from cocktails to wine, the first of which was the Struzziero 2011 Greco di Tufo [$56] from Campania. I quite liked this one, with its marked stonefruit flavors on the tongue joined by dry, herb-y notes that made for a very balanced wine.


Toasted grain fusilli corti [$19.00] | Devil's Gulch rabbit ragu bianco, porcini, thyme
"Short" fusilli are a treat from Calabria and showed off a delightfully hearty, nutty character that I adored. The pasta was a perfect match to soak up the comfy, cozy flavors of the rabbit sauce, which I found simply delicious, with a hit of earthiness from the porcini and a great aromatic component from the thyme.


Spaghetti [$19.00] | spicy octopus ragu, black kale, burrata, breadcrumbs
Spaghetti was well-executed as well. The spicy ragu worked wonders here, beautifully countered by the astringency of the kale while the burrata added a palpable luxuriousness to the dish.


Guanciale [$17.00] | house-cured pork cheek, ricotta, scallions, fennel pollen
Pizza is naturally a must-order here, and the guanciale variety is one of the more popular selections available. For me it starts with the crust, properly bitter and leopard-spotted, with a blend of crisp and fluffy textures. To that, the pork cheek imparted a focused saltiness to the pizza that paired swimmingly with the lush chunks of ricotta sprinkled on top, all while the fennel and scallions offered up a bit of the levity to the mix.


To go with the heavier courses, we opted for a bottle of the Tor de Colle 2007 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo [$58]. This one was quite pleasing as well, dry on the palate, with a tannic quality to it and a marked berry fruit character joined by a peppery spice. It stood up nicely to the food.


Whole grilled orata [$29.00] | currant and artichoke acquasale, olive-pistachio vinaigrette
Gilt head bream was masterfully presented: tender and moist, with a particularly savory skin and charming brininess to it that melded surprisingly well with the tangy acquasale.


Crispy pork belly porcetto [$24.00] | Chino Farms pumpkin mostarda
In sandwich form, the porcetto is perhaps Sotto's signature item at the moment, available during lunch only. Less well known, though, is this version of the delicacy, served only on Sundays we're told. It's similar to its better known cousin porchetta, but not quite the same, being traditionally made from a slow-roasted, salted and herbed suckling pig. Differences notwithstanding, the end result is a contrast of tender, fatty, immensely flavorful flesh and wonderfully crunchy, salty skin that satisfies your basest cravings. A dab of mostarda added a hit of piquancy to the dish, and the greens a certain levity, but clearly, the pig was the hero here.


Time for dessert. There is no dedicated pastry chef here, so the sweet stuff comes from the two Chefs as well. Click for a larger version.


Olive oil cake [$7.00] | pine nut crema inglese, honey whipped cream, roasted grapes
The olive oil cake was pretty phenomenal, one of the tastiest I've had no doubt, with its slight savory character flowing beautifully into the sweetness of the pine nut crema and whipped cream, all while the grapes added an unabashedly sugary smack to the dessert. Really well balanced.


Cannoli Siciliani [$7.00] | ricotta, orange marmalade, pistachios, chocolate
A Sicilian treat, cannoli comprise rolled tubes of fried pastry, stuffed here with a mixture of ricotta, pistachio, orange, and chocolate. It was a paradigmatic presentation of the dessert, with the crisp dough playing off of the orange-chocolate nuances beautifully, all while the ricotta served as subtly sweet base to the course.


Bittersweet chocolate crostata [$8.00] | hazelnuts, salted rosemary caramel
Our party closed out with Sotto's tart-like crostata. Here we're talking rich, lush, chocolate-y flavors joined by a savory, herby element from the rosemary caramel, all while the hazelnuts offered up a nutty crunch to the fray.

Sotto's going as strong as ever, with Pollack and Samson serving up some of the most unique, and delicious Italian cooking in the Southland. I love the duo's focus (or obsession, more appropriately) on the southern reaches of the country, which allows them the latitude to present to diners some of the region's lesser known delicacies, a blend of rustic and refined that makes me feel thankful that we have a place like this. Definitely a star in LA's Italian repertoire.

LQ Foodings at Vertical Wine Bistro (Pasadena, CA)

May 19, 2013, 8:30 pm

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LQ @ Vertical Wine Bistro
70 N Raymond Ave, Pasadena, CA 91103
213.610.9882
www.bistrolq.com
Sun 05/19/2013, 08:30p-11:35p



Since shuttering his namesake Bistro LQ in March 2011, you could say that Laurent Quenioux has been exploring his culinary wanderlust. Though he's been stationed at Vertical Wine Bistro since November 2010, the Chef has staged a number of popular "Foodings" throughout the Southland. The pop-up dinners kicked off in 2011 at Starry Kitchen, with Quenioux wrapping up that year with a stint at Le Saint Amour with Walter Manzke, a brief appearance on Top Chef: Texas, and a completely over-the-top 18-course white truffle dinner. In March 2012, the Chef ended his tenure at SK, but soon thereafter, paired up with the Trans again at a couple of controversial weed/herb dinners. Then, in May, he held another fooding at Good Girl Dinette in Highland Park, which was followed up by a run at Beverly Hills' Barney Greengrass a couple months later. This current series at Vertical extends a number of dinners he did in February this year, and lasts through early June. Quenioux is joined here by Sous Chef Daniel Vasquez and Pastry Chef Anthony Huynh, both longtime veterans of Bistro LQ.


The LQ "Fooding" menu comprised five courses at a reasonable $48, while wine pairings by Domaine LA added on another $28pp. And of course, there was also the option of Quenioux's legendary, probably-best-in-the-City cheese cart and its 38 selections of imported, mostly-non-pasteurized, French fromage. Click for larger versions.


A crusty, rustic sourdough from upstart baker Bread Lounge (located right around the corner from Downtown hot spot Bestia) was served with a sweetish butter and olive oil by 41 Olive.


Kir Vertical [$12.00] | Prosecco, St Germain Liquor, Fresh Mint
Around The World [$12.00] | Cucumber, Hendrick's Gin, Agave Nectar, Elderflower Liqueur, Yuzu Juice
The Lolita [$12.00] | Plymouth Gin, Blueberries, Agave Nectar, Brown Sugar, Lemon Juice, Prosecco
To whet our appetites, we commenced with all three of the evening's cocktails. The Kir Vertical was pretty standard fare, giving us a back and forth between the prosecco and mint over an undercurrent of St. Germain sugariness. Meanwhile, the Around The World was a prototypical cucumber cocktail, with a classic interplay between the vegetable and the elderflower, all while the yuzu added a pinch of levity to the mix. My favorite of the bunch was The Lolita, a well-integrated drink which had a great fruity sweetness to it, all balanced by an intriguing spiciness and an interesting element in the form of that agave.


Mise en Bouche: Hokkaido Scallop smoked for 6 hours; Toasted Waffle, Nori Butter; Roasted Bone Marrow, Crayfish, Grated Celeriac
NV Terres Dorées Cremant de Bourgogne Chardonnay
Our amuse bouche course featured a trio of treats. Moving front to back per our server's direction, I started with the bone marrow. It displayed all of the slick, fatty flair that you'd expect from the stuff, which, combined with the crayfish, formed a rich, lush, almost bisque-like experience that complemented the seafood without overwhelming it. I appreciated the hit of brightness from the celeriac as well. Moving on, that nori butter was fantastic, showing off all of the seaweed's ocean-y, umami-laden savoriness against a light, fluffy waffle background. Last up was the scallop, a dense, sticky example that was positively imbued with an almost hammy smokiness; it was pretty intense alone, but the yuzukosho-esque condiment on top was a stupendous counterpoint.


1: Minestrone, Serrano Ham, Ramps Hazelnut Pesto, Amy's Farm Duck Egg, Rillette FG Macaron
2012 Domaine Sauvete Pineau D'Aunis Rosé Meli-Melo
Our first proper course featured Quenioux's take on minestrone. It was a delicious interpretation of the dish, an immensely savory potage with delightful points of piquancy and a wonderfully crisp egg in the middle. The foie gras-stuffed duck rillettes macaron was also appreciated, conveying a deft blend of sweet and salty flavors, finishing with a distinct tinge of pork.


2: Cold Poached Skate, Fried Capers, Watermelon Pico, Bonito Emulsion, Dehydrated Kale, Blis Char Roe, Dehydrated Beets, Morels
2011 Domaine du Closel "La Jalousie" Savenniere
The Chef's skate was a standout for me. The fish itself was spot on, supple and mild, yet full of flavor, delicious alone and even better when taken with the juicy slab of watermelon and those earthy morels. It was one of the tastiest preparations of the fish I've had. My only concern was that the char roe was a touch smoky at times, and could easily dominate the subtleties of the skate.


3: Rice Porridge, Veal Sweetbreads, Uni Bottarga, Uni, Wood Sorrel
2010 Monasterio De Corias, Maceration Carbonica
A lot of people seemed to love this course, and for good reason. It was a cozy, hearty dish, with the comfy flavors of the porridge working perfectly against the bright, green nuances of the sorrel, all while the uni offered up further luxuriousness to the dish. Perhaps the best part here, though, were the nuggets of sweetbreads, which showed off a flawlessly crisp texture and a mouth-watering savoriness that was easy to like. This was something I could just eat a big bowl of.


4: A3 Japanese Wagyu, Pan Drippings, Green Garlic Soil, English Pea Frozen Yogurt, Harissa Emulsion, Shaved Asparagus, Shaved Radish
2010 Mas de Gourgonnie, Les Baux de Provence Rouge
The most substantial course of the evening featured super fatty (arguably too fatty, depending on the piece you got) cuts of real-deal Japanese wagyu. The beef was as lush and decadent as you'd expect, an explosion of bovine flavors that was expertly countered by a focused kick of harissa spice. Loved the offsetting bitterness and crunch here of the slivers of radish and asparagus as well.



It just wouldn't seem like a proper LQ meal without an appearance from the famed cheese cart. You can get three cheeses for $12, five for $20, seven for $28, or the whole shebang for $120 (crazy!). We asked the Chef to choose for us, and he came up with the following, divided into hard and soft selections:

• Mimolette - Salty, nutty, dry, crumbly, with an almost caramel-like tone and replete with "illegal" cheese mites.
• Gruyère - Relatively mild and gritty, with a nice earthy character to it.
• Fumaison - Fun and funky, with a hint of wood and smoke.
• Tomme de Belloc - Rich and savory, with a dense, yet appealing body. This is one I could probably eat a lot of.
• Carré Mirabelle - Salty, soft, and smooth. Nice!
• Munster - Sharp and floral, with a strong-tasting, yet appealing quality to it.
• Filetta Corsica - Earthy and herby, with a mushroom-y character to boot. Very cool.
• Chambertin - Époisses-like in both appearance and taste.
• Camembert - One of my go-to cheeses: creamy, rich, and always a good decision.
• Reblochon - One of the most intense cheeses of bunch--zesty with a palpable earthiness to it.

The decet was served with fantastic homemade accompaniments of butternut squash with ginger, tomatillo, blueberry gelée, Okinawan sweet potato with maple, strawberry with balsamic, as well as an optional truffle honey [$3], in addition to toast and nuts.


5: Caramel Miso Goat Cheesecake, Black Sesame Graham Cracker Crumb, Tofu Cream, Grapefruit Sorbet, Brown Butter Croquant
Dessert starred a delightfully savory miso-caramel that formed the base to the dish, working well with the bright, citric flavors of the grapefruit while the sesame Graham cracker crumbles moderated the interaction. There was an intriguing bitter undertone to the dessert that I liked, and texturally, the croquant was key, adding a well-placed crunchiness that absolutely made sense to me.


Laurent Quenioux, with Sous Chef Daniel Vasquez.

A chef popping up in his own restaurant may be a bit odd, but the event was largely a success, and judging from how crowded the room was, I'm guessing I'm not alone in that sentiment. It was nice see how Quenioux's food has evolved over the years, becoming noticeably more cohesive, more nuanced, but still imbued with his signature eclectic style. As for what's next, the Chef will be doing a few more stints around down, and will also be traveling and cooking in Europe in late summer. No word yet though on his long-awaited permanent spot.

PettyCash Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA)

May 22, 2013, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Tavern (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: LQ Foodings at Vertical Wine Bistro (Pasadena, CA)

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Petty Cash Restaurant
7360 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.933.5300
www.pettycashtaqueria.com
Wed 05/22/2013, 07:30p-10:20p





The biggest taco-related opening of the year has revealed itself in the form of PettyCash, a brand new postmodern taqueria set in the space formerly occupied by John Sedlar's Playa (and Neal Fraser's Grace, before that). The Bill Chait-backed (Sedlar is still a partner) restaurant features a menu by Walter Manzke (whose transcendent pig ear nachos at Test Kitchen perhaps foreshadowed his role here) and taco Wunderkind Guillermo "Oso" Campos Moreno from Tijuana's Tacos Kokopelli, with local blogger Bill Esparza running interference. PettyCash officially opened on May 21st after weeks of "secret" password-requiring preview dinners, and is walk-in only at the moment.


Playa's former digs have been chopped and screwed. Though the basic layout remains, one side of the 150-seat room is dominated by a wall mural by graffiti artist RETNA, while communal benches have been installed, and the oft-ignored back room brought back to life with high-topped tables and shuffleboard. The vibe they were going for is described by marketing materials as "Tijuana circa 1986 meeting East LA circa 2013."


PettyCash's menu reads well, an of-the-moment interpretation of street food that Manzke and Campos are quite proud of (and indeed, it includes some of the latter's standbys from Tijuana). Tacos are meant to be the focus here, but there's a strong cast of supporting players as well, including those aforementioned oreja de cerdo nachos. The libations are equally as engaging. Given that this is a Bill Chait joint, cocktails are overseen by Julian Cox and are definitely worth a try; the beer selection is pretty damn respectable too. Also, be sure to pay special attention to the array of Mexican spirits on offer (Esparza's area of expertise I understand): tequila, mezcal (the new tequila), sotol (the new mezcal), bacanora, and yes, even raicilla (you'll probably have to look that one up). Click for larger versions.


Housemade chips were gratis, as were the two salsas: one tomatillo, and one spicier, smokier variant. Interesting note: during previews, there were apparently three salsas provided, so I'm not sure why one was removed.


Ceviche Negro [$12.00] | pacific sea bass, squid ink, mango, peanuts
Perhaps inspired by Kokopelli's famed "Black Harder" dish, our first course of the evening managed to be one of my absolute favorites. I loved the unexpected, almost disconcerting tint of the sea bass here, and how it melded seamlessly with the simultaneously earthy, nutty, and spicy notes at play. There was just a fantastic depth of flavor here that really made the fish sing.


Chicharrones [$6.00] | pineapple-carrot hot sauce
Chicharrones were marvelous, the best pork rinds I'd ever had in fact: light, airy, and utterly crunchy, with a superb savoriness to boot. They were delicious alone, but the hot, sweet sauce was the perfect accoutrement, popping and crackling upon being slathered on the fritters.


Pig Ear Nachos [$12.00] | crema poblana, soft egg
Manzke served this a while back at his stint at Test Kitchen, and it sort of blew me away back then. I'm happy to report that the dish is back in full force at PettyCash, and is still the best version of nachos I've ever eaten. The pig ear was clearly the star here: crisp, chewy, and undeniably pork-y little slivers that balanced beautifully against the zesty nuances of the cilantro and crema, while the chilies added just a whisper of heat to things. If that wasn't enough, the egg imparted further luxuriousness to the dish (a runny egg makes everything better right?), making for a delectable amalgam of tastes and textures. A must try.


Cook Ranch Pork Ceviche [$9.00] | nopales, pickled red onion, avocado
Now this was a new one: pork, but in ceviche form. I didn't even know you could do that. The dish really turned out quite well though. I loved the texture on the meat, which was firm, yet supple, yielding. It was almost like a dense fish, and indeed, functioned just the same here, serving as a great base on which the countervailing flavors of cactus, onion, and avocado could really dance. Give it a shot.


Kanpachi Ceviche [$17.00] | tomatillo, avocado
Following up on the pork was a much more conventional ceviche featuring kampachi. The fish was great texturally, and the sour, tangy, yet slightly sweet flavors were classic in essence, yet undeniably effective.


Aguachile en Molcajete [$12.00 + $9.00 + $6.00 + $8.00 + $9.00 + $12.00] | homemade clamato, wild Sonoran chiltepin
Next, Manzke sent out an impressive molcajete (or mortar) filled with aguachile and a number of mariscos: Kanpachi, Kumamoto Oysters, Littleneck Clams, Octopus, Gulf White Prawns, and Live Santa Barbara Prawn. I quite liked the presentation, with the sweet-spicy-sour broth balancing and highlighting the distinct, ocean-y flavors of the seafood, each of which contributed to the textural mélange here. Pairing with the aguachile was a delightful mason jar of bichi, an intense, multifaceted, and quite profound seafood broth that provided a palpable heft to go with the levity and whimsy of the main dish.


Fly by Night [$8.00] | Petty Cash scotch medley, Saler's gentiane, King's ginger, angostura, peychaud bitters, grapefruit twist
Naturally, we had to try each of the seven cocktails on the menu, the first of which arrived "on draft." It really was like nothing that you'd expected from a Mexican joint; in fact, I'd had a handcrafted version of it not long ago at Sotto! Redux notwithstanding, this was a weighty, boozy concoction that deftly played the base of Scotch against the citrus-y, bittersweet, and spicy influences present. Nice.


Cheesy Churros [$5.00] | green mole-corn dip
The popular cheesy churros tasted exactly as advertised, giving us the crisp, yet creamy texture of a churro, with a savory tinge. I actually enjoyed eating them alone, but my dining companions appreciated the slight sweetness in the accompanying dip.


Deep Fried Quesadilla [$8.00] | white prawns, cabbage, roasted tomato sauce
A deep-fried quesadilla was a fun little dish. For me, the prawns here were more for texture, with the quesadilla showing off sort of a general savory character that paired in classic fashion with the smoky, spicy salsa and light, crisp shards of cabbage. Tasty.


Oaxacan Old Fashioned [$8.00] | Reposado tequila, Oaxacan mezcal, house agave, angostura bitters, orange oil
Petty Cash Margarita [$10.00] | blanco tequila, lime, citrus-spiked agave nectar
Banana Hammock [$10.00] | Petty Cash rum blend, banana infusion, fresh lime, tamarind, cassia, dehydrated banana chip
The second "draft" cocktail, the Oaxacan Old Fashioned, was a south-of-the-border riff on the classic, with the smoky weight of the mezcal forming the main thrust in the drink, set off against the citrus notes present. The requisite Petty Cash Margarita, meanwhile, was pretty much a standard version of the traditional cocktail, but with the addition of agave nectar. It was actually quite delicious and well-integrated, with a lovely balance of sweet and sour nuances over a base of tequila. Last up was the whimsically-named Banana Hammock, which was as tropical as its name (and appearance) would suggest, with a marked banana fruitiness joined by a good amount of sweet, aromatic spice--definitely deserving of its umbrella.


"Pocho Style" [$7.00] | flour tortilla, zucchini flower, jack cheese, crema
Next up was an expert rendition of the ubiquitous "American" style quesadilla. It was a comforting, familiar dish, with a delightful cheesiness to it that paired well with the slight crunch of the four tortilla, all while the crema offered up a countering tanginess to things.


Al Pastor [$4.00] | adobo-chile rubbed pork shoulder, onions, avocado
Our first set of tacos brought us the al pastor, which gave us some tasty bits of chile-imbued pork that worked well enough against the piquant counterpoints of onion and avocado. My concern was that texturally, the meat just sort of blended in with everything else, and needed to stand out more. In terms of consistency, the star here was the tortilla, a blend of supple and crispy that really made my day.


Dorados [$4.00] | crispy rolled potato tacos, avocado, tomatillo, cotija cheese
The tacos dorados were reminiscent of the flautas that I sometimes pick up from my local Mexican joint, not necessary a bad thing mind you (especially since they're basically the same price!). It was a classic interpretation of the taquito in effect, a blend of a savory potato filling and super crunchy tortilla wrapper that made absolute sense when taken with the avocado and shredded cabbage on top.


Baja Fish Taco [$4.00] | beer-battered pacific sea bass, pico de gallo, cabbage
The taco de pescado, meanwhile, was undoubtedly one of our favorites. It basically amounted to a completely traditional fish taco, but one that was superbly presented, with the fish really taking center stage, yet matching perfectly with its various accompaniments


The Obligatory Vodka Drink [$9.00] | Vodka, fresh lime, rose water, ginger, candied rose petal
Nacho Libre [$10.00] | pisco, lime, caramelized pineapple syrup, Jamaichael Jordan, egg white, creole bitters
Buck Dynasty [$10.00] | your choice of spirit, lime, house fermented ginger beer
Our last round of cocktails brought us the last three on the list. The aptly-named Obligatory Vodka Drink (is vodka the red-headed stepchild of the liquor world now?) was better than most fortunately, with a refreshing ginger tang to go along with the aromatic qualities of the rose. The Nacho Libre, meanwhile, was quite intriguing, featuring a wonderfully sweet, spicy, floral base of Jamaichael Jordan (hibiscus tea, clove, Mexican cinnamon, raspberry) that reminded one of my dining companions of a "wax candle." Last up was the Buck Dynasty, which came in our choice of base spirit. Naturally, we let the bartender decide, and were given mezcal. It wouldn't be the first liquor to come to mind for me, but it actually worked out really well, with the booze imparting a smoky undercurrent to the drink that melded seamlessly with the bright, sour tastes at play.


Cook Ranch Pork Carnitas [$4.00] | salsa verde, guacamole
Getting back to the tacos, the carnitas variety was very, very pork-y, with a surprising intensity to it that was set off beautifully by the piquancy of the salsa and guac. Texturally though, I would've liked some crispy bits as well, as those browned edges are certainly part of the joy of eating carnitas.


Charcoal Grilled Octopus [$4.00] | chile de arbol, peanuts, jack cheese
The "Kraken" was probably the dish most literally translated from Kokopelli's repertoire, and for good reason it seems. It was one of my favorites of the night, with the octopus arriving just tender enough, with a lovely char and a palpable potency to it, gorgeously foiled by the spicy pricks from the arbol chile. If you get only one taco, make it this.


Charcoal-Roasted Portobello Mushroom [$4.00] | asparagus, jack cheese, pipian
I don't think I'd ever had mushroom as a taco filling before, which, after eating this, is a shame. The earthy, salty, savory character of the portobello was nicely conveyed here, keenly moderated by the slivers of asparagus thrown in, while texturally, the 'shrooms were spot on as well. A very appealing vegetarian option.


Prime Beef Striploin Carne Asada [$4.00] | refried beans, guacamole
The carne asada taco, unfortunately, was my least favorite of the bunch, as I found that the meat itself actually got overshadowed by the other components here. The beef really needed to be the hero in the dish, but got a bit lost among the beans and avocado.


With the cocktails out of the way, we made sure to sample PettyCash's much-bandied about artisanal Mexican spirits program. We began with some Minotauro mezcal (3,000L/year production) from Tuitán, Durango that's made from the cenizo maguey. You know you're in some serious company when this non-Oaxacan mezcal is the mildest of the bunch, but that was the case here. The smokiness was still there of course, but there was also a distinct earthy flair to it, along with a surprising smoothness. Also from Durango was La Valentina sotol, made from the non-agave desert spoon. It's the stuff in the huge 14-gallon jug at the bar, and was almost like a more intense version of the Minotauro to me. Finally, we tasted the Tlacuache raicilla, of which only 1,000 litres are produced yearly from the agave Valenciana plant. Hailing from Jalisco, this was probably my favorite of the bunch, with its sweeter, more complex, multifaceted character. Overall, a worthwhile exploration into some lesser known, handmade Mexican spirits--note though, that these craft liquors do not come cheap, each ringing in at $25 a pop.


Crispy Brussels Sprouts [$7.00] | morita-cauliflower crema
With the tacos dispensed with, we went back to the menu and requested everything that we'd not had already. The Brussels sprouts were first up, a commendable preparation of one of my favorite veggies. I loved their almost over-the-top savoriness that transitioned to a brilliant bitterness on the close, with the entire process tempered by the creamy, spicy base of chipotle crema. My only complaint was that I wanted bigger chunks of the sprouts, to better appreciate their texture.


"Roof Top" Baby Green Salad [$8.00] | cucumber, radish, pepitas, sungold tomatoes, avocado-lime dressing
I'm not much of a salad eater, but the version here was surprisingly to my liking. The bright, crisp, refreshing snap of the vegetables was spot on really, a welcomed respite from the heavier flavors that we'd been enjoying. I especially appreciated the nuttiness of those pepitas, as well as the creamy, enveloping tang of the dressing. The Cielo Verde garden lives on!


Baby Beets [$8.00] | grilled corn, black quinoa, kale, tamarind, pistachio, cotija cheese
Regular readers will know that I'm not a fan at all of beets, and unfortunately, this didn't do much to change my disinclination. The elements here, individually, made sense to me, but things just didn't come together with the beets as the main ingredient.


Guacamole [$8.00]
Our final course of the night brought us a near-perfect rendition of guacamole, one that really did a nice job in showing off the avocado itself. I wish we would've started with this!


"Dirty" Horchata [$4.00] | long grain brown rice, pecans, Chinese cinnamon, evaporated milk
Damn Handsome Cold Brew Coffee [$4.00] | La Granja rancho, Columbia, full-body, on tap (try loco-style w/Horchata)
Unfortunately, there's no dessert menu to speak of at the moment, but from what I understand, Margarita Manzke will be implementing one in the near future. That being said, we had to make do this evening with some liquid "desserts." Make sure to get the horchata, as it just might've been the best example I'd ever tasted, with a flawless balance of sugary and spicy that went down so easy. The coffee, as the name implies, was damn tasty as well, and I'm not even a coffee drinker.


The PettyCash team, comprising Walter Manzke, "Oso" Campos, Bill Chait, and tortilla maestra Marisol. Not pictured: Bill Esparza (who vanished temporarily during the photo opp).

I do miss Playa, but PettyCash seems like a worthy restaurant to fill that void. It's more casual than its predecessor, both in terms of the food and the vibe, and cheaper to boot. I don't want to see everybody going in that direction, but for the location, I think it'll do well, sort of hitting a sweet spot that'll hopefully give it a bit more lasting power. Case in point: one of my dining companions said that he wished the place was closer to home, so he could go after work. That being said, some may decry PettyCash as not being authentic, but that's sort of missing the point. It was never Manzke's or anyone else's goal to be truly authentic. It's more like Mexican-inspired, with varying degrees of inspiration depending on the dish, and in fact, I think the kitchen's at its best and most intriguing when they wander a bit further away from strict Mexican sensibilities. That "improvisation" is what I liked the most about the place, and I'd love to see further exploration of that arena (as well as reservations!). In any case, "Oso" will be here for a few more weeks to make sure everything's going alright before returning home, and as for Chef Manzke, he's still busy at work on Republique, which is slated to debut in the old Campanile space later this year. I hope we haven't seen the last of John Sedlar, either.

Tavern (Los Angeles, CA)

May 29, 2013, 8:05 pm

≫ Next: Shunka (Costa Mesa, CA)

≪ Previous: PettyCash Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA)

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Tavern Restaurant
11648 San Vicente Blvd, Brentwood, CA 90049
310.806.6464
www.tavernla.com
Tue 05/07/2013, 08:05p-11:30p



Having crossed both Lucques and A.O.C. (both the new and old incarnations) off my dining bucket list, I figured that it was time to give Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne's most recent restaurant, Tavern, a go. The fact that the place has a new chef in the form of Gavin Mills (whom I quite liked over at Wood & Vine) made my visit even more apropos.



Tavern is comprised of three very distinct spaces. Up front is the Larder (not pictured), the retail component, while the center section houses the bar/lounge. Bringing up the rear is the glass-encased main dining room, properly called the Atrium and one of the most pleasing I've encountered in a while.


Tavern's menu reads Cal-Med-ish, reminding me a bit of Lucques' actually. The wine program, curated by Styne, is expectedly commendable, with an appealing by-the-glass selection as well as a separate, much lengthier wine list, while cocktails make sense here, too. Click for larger versions.


A prototypical example of bread and butter to begin.


Cat's Paw [$14.00] | Burnett's London Dry Gin, Mandelo Juice, Negroni Syrup & Lemon
Mexican Lollipop [$14.00] | Agavales Tequila, Apple Juice, Tamarind & Salt, Sugar, Cayenne Rim
Howard Hughes [$14.00] | Bulleit Bourbon, Luxardo, Blood Orange Juice & Egg Whites
We commenced with a trio of cocktails. The Cat's Paw was quite fetching, and classic in essence, with a great mix of bittersweet and tart citrus nuances to play off of the gin--very nicely balanced. On the other hand, the Mexican Lollipop was much more in-your-face, with a bracing, sugary blast of lingering heat against persistent overtones of tamarind. Last, we had the Howard Hughes, with its great, boozy base of Bourbon goodness blended with a multifaceted sweetness from the Luxardo and orange, all while the egg added a moderating element to the drink.


House-Made Charcuterie, Mustard, Pickles and Toasts [$14.00]
I was a big fan of Chef Mills' charcuterie program over at Wood & Vine, and I'm happy to report that he's continued that tradition here at Tavern. Both cold cuts were spot on, while the country pâté was even more enjoyable: properly coarse in consistency, with an intense, earthy savor to it, courtesy of the heart and spleen in there I'm sure. The table favorite, though, was the chicken liver mousse, which one of my dining companions declared as the best she'd ever had (she even took a jar home with her). I can see where she was coming from, as it was certainly one of the strongest preparations I'd eaten as well, showing off a refined, restrained, yet undeniably chicken-y flair that was fantastic over toast. Do yourself a favor and get the charcuterie if you come here.


Bacon-Wrapped Dates Stuffed with Parmesan [$6.00]
Bacon-wrapped dates were a classic example of devils on horseback, bouncing sweet and salty flavors off each other in expert fashion. Lovely crunch on the bacon, too.


Little Gems, Shrimp, Avocado, Cucumber & Buttermilk [$17.00]
We then commenced with a parade of salads. Little gem lettuce arrived crisp and succulent, with a refreshing character to it that worked well with the creamy weight of the buttermilk dressing, all while avocado added further depth to the dish. I would've liked a crisper, snappier texture on the shrimp, though.


Yellowtail Crudo, Spring Vegetable Salad, Crispy Shallots, Mint & Avocado [$16.00]
A crudo of yellowtail was quite to my liking, with the clean, glistening cuts of fish melding seamlessly with the savory topping of shallots, all while the various greenery on the plate offered up a countervailing levity. If that wasn't enough, I loved the mint here, which gave us a subtle, overarching brightness and bite to the dish that just clicked.


Simple Salad, Lemon, Radish & Soft Herbs [$11.00]
The Simple Salad certainly lived up to its name. It wasn't particularly exciting, but worked well enough.


Curried Cauliflower and Carrots, Dandelion & Tahini Yogurt [$14.00]
Cauliflower arrived imbued with the aromatic essence of curry, tempered by the drizzles of cool, creamy yogurt. Texturally, I would've liked it crisper, crunchier, though the carrots here did add a great textural component in the dish.


Arugula Salad, Citrus, Avocado & Feta [$14.00]
Several of my dining companions seemed to really enjoy this salad. The flavors here weren't unexpected, but they were effective, with the bitter arugula working hand-in-hand with the tangy feta and tart, juicy citrus wedges.


Moving on to wine now, we ordered up some bubbly in the form of the Vertus, Veuve Fourny, Brut Rosé, 1er Cru NV [$112]. This was an appealing sparkling rosé, on the dry, focused, mineral-y side, with a surprisingly subtle fruitiness to it and a marked undercurrent of toasty goodness.


Lobster Risotto [$18.00] | Butter-Poached Lobster, Tarragon, Chives
Getting in to the pastas, the lobster risotto arrived creamy and luxurious, with an almost bisque-like richness that showed off the sweetness and brine of the crustacean laudably, moderated by just a hint of herby contrast from the chives and tarragon.


Herb Ricotta Gnocchi [$15.00] | English Peas, Asparagus, Brown Butter, Ramps, Mint Ricotta
The gnocchi were even better, a superb presentation of the pasta in fact. Texturally, they were on point--dense and pillow-y--with a mild savor that was amped up by the incorporation of brown butter into the mix. The key, though, were the veggies, which offset the weight of the dumplings beautifully, all while the mint served as the perfect accent piece to the dish.


For the more substantial courses to follow, we went with a bottle of the Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Arlaud '09 [$154]. This one was light and tight, with plenty of tart fruity character bound with a bit of minerality and herbaceousness. Tasty, but it seemed a bit young overall.


Market Fish [$29.00] | Wilted Little Gems, Saffron & Castelvetrano Olives
Now the mains: we began with the market fish, which was cod this evening. Just as expected, its flesh was flaky and moist, with a light, mild taste that just soaked up the piquant nuances from the saffron and olives, all while the lettuce added a well-placed crunchiness to the mix. Quite nice.


Mussels & Clams [$24.00] | Fennel, White Beans, Swiss Chard & Basil
Mussels and clams made for a delectably briny dish that paired the ocean-y flavors of the molluscs with the delightfully bitter aromatics from the chard and basil, all while the dish conveyed a tingling undercurrent of spice. The beans were put to great use here, effectively tempering the course, and texturally, the clams were just about perfect, but the mussels were a touch gritty at times.


Devil's Chicken [$27.00] | Dijon Mustard, Leeks, Potatoes & Breadcrumbs
Next up was one of Tavern's most requested dishes, the Devil's Chicken, which, despite the name, isn't all that spicy. It did have a bit of peppery kick to it though, one that made sense with the flavorful bird. I really enjoyed the texture imparted by the breadcrumbs here, and the potatoes really formed a great base to the dish. My only concern was that in some bites, the all-important mustard seemed too overt at times, taking my attention away from the chicken itself.


Crispy Duck Confit [$30.00] | Black Rice, Swiss Chard & Spiced Rhubarb
I'm a sucker for duck confit, and tonight the dish did not disappoint. It was a pretty much flawless presentation of the classic, with the immensely savory, succulent duck meat working beautifully alongside that crisp, salty skin. The bitter greens did a nice job moderating the course, and the inclusion of black rice was much appreciated as well. Delish.


"Snickers" Bar [$12.00] | Salted Peanut Caramel and Vanilla Ice Cream
With the savories out of the way, it was time for Pastry Chef Christina Olufson's desserts, and what better way to start than with Tavern's signature "Snickers" Bar? It really was something special, deftly recalling the characteristics of the candy bar with its mouth-watering blend of nutty, salty, and sweet flavors, all set off by that vanilla ice cream.


Tangerine Creamsicle Coupe [$12.00] | Tangerine Sorbet, Vanilla Ice Cream, Candied Tangerines and Tangerine Caramel
Speaking of childhood favorites, the creamsicle coupe did an even better job of capturing the essence of the original, perfectly balancing the lushness of the ice cream with the tart, tangy taste of citrus. Yum.


Créme Fraîche Beignets [$12.00] | Chocolate-Hazelnut Sauce and Banana Ice Cream
Last up were beignets, fluffy little pillows of sweet, spicy goodness that were particularly enjoyable when taken with a dab of that banana ice cream.


Chef de Cuisine Gavin Mills: now trimmer, more hirsute.

Chef Mills seems to be off to a fine start here, and the food at Tavern actually reminded me quite a bit of that at Lucques, which I suppose isn't terribly surprising given their common lineage. The cooking slants comforting, cozy, classic--straightforward, unfussy presentations that don't intend to wow or challenge diners but rather to satisfying them with a blend of rusticity and refinement. As such, Tavern doesn't exactly try to dance in the spotlight these days, but rather, seems content being exactly what it needs to be.

Shunka (Costa Mesa, CA)

June 2, 2013, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Connie & Ted's (West Hollywood, CA)

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Sushi Shunka
369 E 17th St, Costa Mesa, CA 92627
949.631.9854
Sat 03/30/2013, 08:00p-10:35p





I've always been impressed with the quality-to-price ratio offered at sushi joints in Orange County, places sushi as Ohshima and Nana San where you can get really good sushi without spending triple digits per person (which seems to be the requirement in LA proper). The last such restaurant on my "to-eat" list was Shunka, so I was determined to finally make it out here. Shunka's the work of Chef/Owner Yuki-san, previously head sushi chef at the longstanding (ca. 1978) Matsu in Huntington Beach. Yuki-san spent over 15 years there before opening Shunka in March 2012.


Shunka occupies the space that once held John Arteaga's Frenzy Sushi (tagline: Sushi Gone Wild!). The layout remains basically the same, but the decor's been tweaked to convey a more serious tone. The bar seats about 15, while a few tables line the walls.


Shunka's menu features your standard sushi fare, though the way to go is to sit at the bar and order omakase. If you insist on à la carte, I would at least pick selections from the specials board. Click for larger versions.


Amuse Bouche: Marinated Snapper
Upon being seated, our itamae Juro-san quickly thrust before us small bowls of snapper, cooked in sake and soy. The dish didn't look like much, but was surprisingly satisfying, conveying a firm, dense, meaty texture along with a subtle fishiness that paired swimmingly with the mix of sweet and umami flavors present.


To drink, we decided upon a bottle of the Kubota Manjyu [$120], a legendary junmai daiginjo from Niigata's Asahi Shuzo brewery. Though the sake's fairly common, it's also unquestionably enjoyable: smooth, silky, and displaying a delicious blend of fruity and floral nuances along with a light touch of crisp, stone-y minerality toward the close.


1: Kuromaguro
We commenced our parade of sushi with a textbook cut of bluefin, which I found slick and supple, with a mild savor that was brought out by the application of soy sauce.


2: Kanpachi
Amberjack, meanwhile, was also on point, with a particularly satisfying consistency and mouthfeel to it.


3: Tai
Sea bream arrived clean and crisp, with a fantastic bit of zing from the yuzukosho that really complemented the delicate flavors of the fish.


4: Tako
Live octopus was superb: creamy, yet snappy in texture, with a softly salty taste that went perfectly with the spicy condiment on top.


5: Hotategai
Juro-san then dispatched a live scallop in front of us, presenting the bivalve in its own shell. I loved it, reveling in its soft, sweet, saline flesh, perked up by pinpoints of salt and a tiny dab of yuzukosho.


6: Kyuuban
I believe these were the suction cups from the octopus above, deep fried to perfection. I really liked the crispness here, as well as the super-savory flavors at play and how they paired with the tangy, umami-laced sauce.


7: Scallop Dynamite
With the remaining "sides" of the scallop, Juro-san prepared what amounted to a scallop dynamite. The hotate's firm flesh worked out surprisingly well against the hot, hearty, and creamy elements in the dish, with the scallion providing a much needed dose of levity to the mix.


8: Yagara
We were then given cuts of trumpetfish, a real rarity in sushi restaurants that I'd actually never tried before. The flavor on this one was very, very mild, so for me it was all about the texture: soft and supple, but with a very pleasing snap to it.


9: Aji
Next, an entire mackerel (a small one) was prepared for us by the Chef. It was very mild, very delicate for aji, with a lovely counterpoint in the form of that ginger and scallion, though I would've preferred less sauce.


10: Shima Aji
Striped jack was spot on with its crisp, snappy consistency and sweet, saline flavors. Very nice!


11: Katsuo
Bonito, or skip jack tuna, gave us a fantastic savoriness that was deftly offset by the scallion. The tang of the accompanying ponzu made sense too, though perhaps less would be more here.


12: Hone Senbei
At this point, the remains of the mackerel from above were deep fried to make some delightful bone crackers, which showed off the savory, ocean-y essence of the fish, balanced by a hit of citric sourness.


13: Medai
Medai was yet another rarity, something that I'd only had before at L2O in Chicago when Laurent Gras was still there. Also known as Japanese butterfish or blue nose, it was somewhat creamy in texture and benign in taste, with a great kick of piquancy from the topping of what I believe was some sort of pepper.


14: Akamutsu
Juro-san followed that up with akamutsu, a.k.a. gnomefish, blackthroat seaperch, or deep sea snapper. It's a fish that I'd only tried before at Las Vegas' Bar Masa. Tonight, it was fantastic, with a glorious savory char character that paired gorgeously against the salt-spicy jolt of yuzukosho.


15: Toro
Toro was of the medium variety: cool, dense, fatty, and almost melt-in-your-mouth, though not particularly interesting.


16: Itoyori Dai
Itoyoridai is another hard-to-find specimen. Known as golden threadfin bream, its flesh was lean and subtle, with the shiso and salt here serving as great accompaniments.


17: Uni No Temaki
Our only roll of the night featured lush, creamy tongues of sea urchin, which paired well with the minty shiso notes in the course. Loved the undercurrent of spice here as well.


18: Sakura Masu
Ocean trout was crisp to the bite, and very full-flavored, with a palpable brine that worked out well with the lemon-y tartness present.


19: Amaebi
Sweet shrimp was butchered right before our eyes, the result of which was a masterful preparation of amaebi: sweet, creamy, and saline, with certain crispness and spring to it.


20: Ebi No Atama
The heads of the aforementioned shrimp, of course, were then deep-fried and brought out.


21: Suika
Dessert comprised watermelon, which seemed particularly succulent and sweet.


Our itamae Juro-san, along with fellow chef Eiji-san and server Shiori.

Have no doubt, Shunka managed to impress. Save for a few minor quibbles, the food here was pretty much spot on, really solid, with a selection of rare seafood that's hard to match. Service was also commendable, as were the chefs' fun, lighthearted demeanors. The restaurant is certainly one of the top sushi spots in OC, and was a fantastic value to boot, coming in at only $58.50 per person, food only. Sushi fiends, take notice.

Connie & Ted's (West Hollywood, CA)

June 4, 2013, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Barnyard (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Shunka (Costa Mesa, CA)

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Connie & Ted's Restaurant
8171 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90046
323.848.2722
www.connieandteds.com
Tue 06/04/2013, 08:00p-11:50p



One of 2013's most anticipated debuts has been a long time coming. News of Michael Cimarusti's reimagined New England clam shack first broke in March last year, and the place is named after the Chef's maternal grandparents, immigrants from England who married in 1940, hence the "est'd" date. Ted was an avid fisherman, and he passed his love of seafood down to his grandson, a fact that's clearly evident in the menu here. You'll find a straightforward selection of traditionally prepared fish and shellfish, executed by Executive Chef Sam Baxter, the former Providence CdC who started his career under Cimarusti at Water Grill. Speaking of Providence alums, David Rodriguez takes up Pastry Chef duties, while Matthew De Marte serves as General Manager. Rounding out the team are partners Donato Poto (a bit hard to recognize in an apron), Craig Nickoloff of Claim Jumper fame, as well as Cimarusti's wife Crisi Echiverri.



Connie & Ted's occupies the site of the old Silver Spoon, though the former building's been completely torn down. The new wavy-roofed, 140-seat structure reads sleek, with a hint of Mid-Century flair, but still pays homage to its fish house roots. Diners inside get a view of the kitchen, but my guess is that tables on the covered patio will be the most coveted.


Connie & Ted's menu features a wide swath of dishes befitting its inspiration. The raw bar was done proper, with easily the largest selection of oysters I'd ever encountered. Even more appealing were the array of fun, shareable starters, while simply-prepared mains and sandwiches added some heartier fare to the mix. Click for larger versions.


The drinks, meanwhile, didn't take a back seat either. The beer list was commendable to be sure (both bottled and draught), and you'd be remiss if you didn't try some of Laura Lindsay's cocktails. For you winos, there's also a California-centric wine list to choose from. Click for larger versions.


Down East Punch [$12.00] | cognac, rum, housemade lamill coffee syrup, whole milk
Ted's Cup [$12.00] | housemade scotch-based liqueur, mint, cucumber, citrus, birch beer
Indian Summer [$12.00] | tequila, cocchi americano rosa, valerian tea, lime, blood orange
We made our way down the cocktail list, beginning with this threesome. The Down East Punch wasn't very punch-like at all, but was really, really good nevertheless, with a wonderfully creamy, coffee-laced flair that tempered the booze flawlessly--this one could be dangerous. Speaking of dangerous, we also had Ted's Cup, which was reminiscent of an adult root beer, with a fantastic sweet, spicy note to it that paired perfectly with the minty overtones present. Last up was the Indian Summer, which showed off a bittersweet, tangy character that transitioned to a savory, almost cheese-like taste on the close, thanks to the valerian.


Hey, we were in West Hollywood after all.


Chef's Choice Platter [$34.00]
Given that there were a whopping 19 oysters on offer, we opted for two orders of the Chef's Choice Platter, specifying that we wanted six varieties so that everyone in our party of four could try one. That point was lost on our server though, and we ended up with two platters of a dozen types each, served with horseradish and mignonette sauce. Here's what I tried:

• Malaspina, B.C. - Meaty, salty, but delicate, with a lingering salinity.
• Fanny Bay, B.C. - Milder, sweeter, with a brief, clean finish.
• Coromandel, B.C. - Creamy, almost buttery in consistency, yet mild in flavor.
• Beau Soleil, N.B. - Classic in essence, with a focused, easy-to-like brine.
• Cotuit, MA - Very nice, very fruity, very well-balanced.
• Sweet Petite, MA - Creamy and subtly sweet, with a bracing freshness--yum.

Overall, an exceptional lot of oysters that made me want to try 'em all.


Jo's Wicked Good Chowda' [$11.00] | New England, Manhattan, Rhode Island clear
Connie & Ted's features three types of chowders, so naturally we had to sample them all. The standard New England variety was prototypical of the style, utterly satisfying and particularly enjoyable when taken with the oyster crackers. The Manhattan variety was sort of the polar opposite, being thinner, with a more pronounced tanginess from the tomato and veggies. My favorite of the troika was actually the Rhode Island version, which gave me the most pronounced clam flavor, but one balanced by the application of potato.


Stuffies [$9.00] | linguiça, garlic, butter, breadcrumbs
Stuffies were tantalizing, with a meaty, spicy kick from the sausage that was easy to like. However, the clams weren't all that apparent, being more pronounced as a textural component here.


Fried Calamari [$9.00] | marinara or sauce Figeroa
Fried squid served as a lovely example of the dish, a deft mix of crunchy and supple textures that was able to demonstrate the inherent goodness of the calamari without overwhelming it with batter. Tasty alone, and even better with a dash of lemon and dab of that tangy Figeroa condiment.


Asparagus au Gratin [$12.00] | roasted asparagus, parmesan cheese, sauce Figeroa
Asparagus was quite fetching, with the bitterness of the spears pairing surprisingly well with the cheesy weight of the Parm, all while the Figeroa added an undercurrent of spice to the dish.


The Dickerson [$12.00] | rye, gran classico, dry vermouth, citrus peel
Catalina Eddy [$12.00] | Jamaican rum, white demerara rum, house made banana cordial, honey, lime
Royal Treatment [$12.00] | gin, dubonnet rouge, lemon
Round #2 got us started with The Dickerson, which just sounds stiff. Indeed it was, but the drink also conveyed a candied sweetness to it that we likened to an apricot-flavored Jolly Rancher! The Catalina Eddy, meanwhile, was definitely tropical-leaning, with a banana-coconut tinge to it that made sense with the weightiness of the rum; I quite appreciated the levity imparted by the mint in this one. Last up was the Royal Treatment, which really showed off the gin against the backdrop of bittersweet, herb-y Dubonnet.


Josephine's Clam Cakes [$10.00] | tartar sauce
Clam cakes were fun and fluffy, with the salinity, as well as the texture of the bivalves really showing through. I didn't mind eating them alone, but a touch of tartar and a sprinkle of lemon made them all the better.


Oysters Rockefeller [$18.00]
Oysters Rockefeller was a straightforward presentation of the New Orleans classic--rich and savory, with a strong vegetal component from the spinach (or parsley?) present. I would've liked the oyster to be more apparent however.


New Bedford Scallop [$23.00] | grilled in its shell with lemon and salted butter
A singular live scallop was spot on, buttery and sweet, with a dense, satisfying bite to it that we all really enjoyed. Beautiful shell on this one as well. Pricey, but worth it.


Sailor's Delight [$12.00] | dry gin, strawberries, rhubarb, lemon, egg white, soda
Narragansett Cooler [$12.00] | bourbon, orange juice, ginger ale
Our last two cocktails brought us the Sailor's Delight, which, indeed, was rather delightful, with a juicy, fruity sweetness that melded seamlessly with the egg white and gin. The unfortunately-named Narragansett Cooler, finally, I found quite refreshing, with a citrus-y, somewhat herbaceous zing that was unabashedly gluggable, perfect for those summer nights on the Rhode Island coast.


Deviled Oysters [$18.00]
Creamy, salty, a lil' spicy, and utterly delicious, with the oyster still shining through despite the accoutrements. One of the best presentations of cooked oyster I've had, in fact.


Angels on Horseback [$18.00]
Tonight was actually my first time having this whimsically-named dish, which comprises bacon-wrapped oysters atop bread. The natural salinity of the oyster was really quite pronounced here, and worked well with the saltiness of the bacon, all while the toast served as a sort of moderating base to the course.


Nancy's Peeky Toe Crab Cake [$12.00] | cole slaw, tartar sauce
The crab cake arrived rather thin. Though it didn't look like much, the sweet, ocean-y relish of the crab was nicely displayed here, not overly hidden by the requisite filler. Great slaw here as well.


With the cocktails all drunk up, we moved on to beer, specifically the Brouwerij West, Dog Ate My Homework, Blackberry Saison [$18], which is brewed right here in Palos Verdes. Despite what you may think, this wasn't a sweet beer. Rather, the dry, refreshing crispness of the base saison really made itself known initially, with the sugary berry nuances creeping up only on the finish.


Wild White Mexican Shrimp [$25.00] | grilled, scampi butter, heirloom squash
I usually shy away from cooked shrimp, but these were quite to my liking. Texturally, they were totally on point--not overdone, with a firm, snappy, springy consistency--while tastewise, I loved their sheer salinity, augmented by that wonderfully aromatic butter and hints of astringent char.


Fried Pacific Oyster [$15.00] | cole slaw, spicy mayo
A fried oyster sandwich was a pretty much flawless presentation of the dish. The oysters themselves gave us a perfect blend of crunchy and creamy consistencies, while their signature brine was proudly conveyed as well. The mayo and slaw formed fitting counterpoints to the seafood, and the sweet bread (baked in-house, natch) here worked wonders too.


Lobster Roll [$20.00] | hot drawn butter or mayonnaise
I think you pretty much have to get the lobster roll here, and we ended up with the cold version. The lobster itself arrived in sizeable, satisfying chunks, firm, yet springy to the bite, with a great blend of sweet, saline, and subtly spicy flavors. It worked beautifully with the buttery bread here, making for yet another laudable version for us Angelenos to try. The fries were lovely as well, sort of like In-N-Out's, but thicker, crisper, and better.


Our second beer was the Cismontane, Holy Jim Falls EPA [$11], from down in Rancho Santa Margarita. I really liked this one, finding it superbly crisp and well balanced, with bitter, aromatic, hoppy nuances leading to a grassy, lingering finish.


Grilled Catch of the Day [$23.00] | True Cod, Massachusetts
For our catch of the day, we chose Massachusetts cod, prepared "Plain & Simple." "Herb Crust" and "Herb Oil and Lemon" are also options, but we wanted the fish to shine here, and that it did. It was a pretty much flawless preparation of cod, with the fish coming out moist, dense, and flaky, with a mild savor that was superbly countered by the astringent char of the skin. Simple, yet uncompromisingly effective. The dish also came with a choice of side, and we opted for the Macaroni & Cheese, which was nicely balanced, though it could've been more al dente to the bite.


Ed's Portuguese Fish Stew [$22.00] | hake, manilla clams, mussels and linguiça
The fish stew was also to my liking, with the saline notes from the seafood tied together by the tanginess of the tomato broth, all while the sausage added a wonderful spice and savoriness to underscore the course. I also enjoyed the potatoes here, which served to temper some of the stronger flavors at play while adding textural differentiation and heft to things.


New England Boiled Dinner [$26.00] | mussels, steamers, lobster, linguiça, potatoes, steamed corn
Next was Connie & Ted's homage to the classic New England Clam Boil. It was a rustic, home-y sort of dish, with the various items of seafood beautifully presented, their sweet, briny flavors dutifully displayed, and the linguiça once again providing a delightful whisper of heat. I especially appreciated the broth here, which was positively imbued with the essence of the ocean, perfect for sopping up with some leftover bread. You should probably get this.


Hell, even Hollywood Jesus made it out.


Bone-In Angus Rib Eye [$42.00] | char-grilled, maitre d' butter, fries
I'm happy to report that Connie & Ted's can produce a fine steak as well, if seafood's not your thing (but then why would you be here?).


Classic American desserts are the work of David Rodriguez. Click for larger versions.


Strawberry Rhubarb Pie [$9.00] | a la mode
The pairing of strawberry and rhubarb seems to be showing up on menus more and more often these days, but damn, it works. Here, we had a sugary, almost jammy sweetness from the combo that functioned seamlessly with the crust, all while the ice cream offered up a bit of countervailing lightness.


Rocky Road Brownie [$9.00] | chocolate ice cream and hot fudge sauce
A Rocky Road brownie was exactly like you'd expect: sweet, rich, and nutty, a bonanza for you chocolate lovers out there.


Indian Pudding [$8.00] | classic new england cornmeal and molasses pudding with vanilla ice cream
Though this dessert was originally inspired by the use of native American cornmeal (hence the "Indian" in the name), it actually showed off a sweet spice that made me think of India Indian.


House-Made Ice Cream [$8.00] | wet nuts
Cimarusti insisted that we try his wet nuts, so here we had a standard vanilla ice cream, but topped with a commixture of walnuts and syrup. It was surprisingly delicious, especially given that I'm not a fan of walnuts, with the intensely sweet, yet nutty topping working hand-in-hand with the ice cream.


Blondie [$9.00] | vanilla ice cream and salted caramel sauce
To conclude the meal, the Chef sent out a Blondie, which is basically a brownie minus the chocolate. It was fantastic, my favorite of the bunch, with the salty caramel pairing gorgeously with the confection. A must try.


Michael Cimarusti with his better half and business partner, Crisi Echiverri.

I've heard some people bemoan the fact that Cimarusti's opened up "yet another" traditionalist seafood type joint, but when you achieve something on the level of Providence, I think you can pretty much do whatever the hell you want. The place is indeed off to a strong (and very busy--it was jam packed most of the evening) start. Though there were a couple service quibbles on this opening night, the food itself was almost all on point, yielding familiar, comforting sensations that nonetheless displayed the deft touch that you'd expect from a brigade that cut its teeth at the pinnacle of fine dining in Los Angeles. You could tell that there was a certain finesse, a certain clarity of flavors to the cooking here, making for a worthy sophomore effect from one of the City's most respected chefs.

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Barnyard (Los Angeles, CA)

June 7, 2013, 8:25 pm

≫ Next: Night + Market (West Hollywood, CA) [4]

≪ Previous: Connie & Ted's (West Hollywood, CA)

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Barnyard Restaurant
1715 Pacific Ave, Venice, CA 90291
310.581.1015
www.barnyardvenice.com
Fri 06/07/2013, 08:25p-11:15p





As we probably all know by now, former Ubuntu superstar Jeremy Fox has taken up residence at Rustic Canyon, quite comfortably I might add. However, you might have forgotten that before Rustic there was Barnyard, the restaurant that the Chef was supposed to helm before suffering a rather public falling out with management back in November. With Fox out of the picture, owner Jose Bunge has brought in former Tasting Kitchen CdC Jesse Barber to take the reins.

About the Chef: Jesse Lawrence Barber grew up in Oregon, and after graduating from Sheldon High School in Eugene, attended Lane Community College to study psychology. He didn't graduate though, instead choosing to focus on a career in the culinary arts. In 2000, Barber began working at Bouchon and The French Laundry, serving as a commis, garde manger, and eventually, line cook. He completed his formal training at the Western Culinary Institute, finishing in 2003, then spent some time at Marché Restaurant in Eugene. Barber's next move was in 2005, when he took on a position at Bluehour in Portland. He left there in 2008, worked a brief stint at the vaunted Clarklewis with Casey Lane, then started at Decarli in Beaverton as a Sous Chef.

In June 2009, Barber relocated to Southern California with Lane to become his Chef de Cuisine at Abbot Kinney game-changer The Tasting Kitchen, but would leave by mid-2011 to start his own project, entitled Spilt Dinner. Spilt gave way to Assembly Restaurants, a collaboration with TK Wine Director Maxwell Leer (Bestia, LudoBites, The Bazaar) that would dissolve in September 2012, around the time that the Chef got married. Following Fox's departure, he became attached to Barnyard, the restaurant debuting on February 1st with wife Celia Barber (née Woodburn) on board as General Manager.


Barnyard's menu is sort of exactly what you'd expect in Venice, showcasing rustic-ish, farm-to-table-y plates meant for sharing. Click for a larger version.


To drink, we went with a bottle of the 2007 Cascina Degli Ulivi Piemonte Dolcetto Nibiô [$67]. This one was on the tannic side, with a balance of dark fruit and a dry, slightly earthy, astringent character on the back end.


TERRINES [$7.00] | choice of meat -OR- veggie
We commenced with Barnyard's take on the classic pâté de campagne, a coarse, gritty, salty presentation of the dish, with a definite piggy goodness to it that made perfect sense with the whole grain mustard. Perhaps a bit less spicy, a bit less earthy than some other versions I've had.


CRUDO [$12.00] | halibut and yellowtail
Crudo featured two cuts of fish. First was halibut, which arrived soft, supple, and expectedly mild on the palate, making it a good pair with a dab of the spicy dressing on the plate. The yellowtail, not surprisingly, showed off a fattier, fishier flair, with a more pronounced taste that worked with the lighter nuances and crunch of the radish.


BRAISED OCTO [$10.00] | olive-oil poached w/ fresh chick peas
Octopus was one of my favorites tonight. It came out nicely charred and a bit crunchy, with a savoriness to it that worked hand-in-hand with the sweet, spicy undertones in the dish. Really appreciated the chickpeas here as well, which did a great job moderating all the flavors at play while adding a bit of heft at the same time.


VEAL BONE MARROW [$12.00] | salsa verde
Bone marrow was a special this evening, one that we obviously had to try. It was a classic presentation of the ingredient, with the marrow coming to us trembling in place, slick and fatty, with a pronounced richness to it that was beautifully balanced by the piquancy of the salsa verde. Very good over the included toast.


PILOTA [$16.00] | italian fried rice & tomatoes + english peas + pecorino
Next was an uncommon version of risotto, which, as the menu states, really did amount to a sort of Italian fried rice. It was quite tasty though, something that I could just eat a big bowl of, with the firm, near crispy grains of rice melding well with the sweetish notes of the tomato and pea, all while the cheese added a bit of kick to the course.


CASSOULET [$10.00] | fresh shelling beans w/ sausage & pulled pork
The cassoulet was comforting, in particular the sausage, which was akin to a hamburger patty in terms of its texture and satisfying savoriness. Unfortunately I didn't get much from the pulled pork, though I did quite enjoy the weight of the beans in the dish, as well as the balance provided by the veggies.


PORK COPPA CHOP [$16.00] | fresh corn polenta + stone fruit + pork sugo
The pork chop showed off a nice char to it, with an astringency that paired well with the meat. The chop was tender, juicy, and easy to eat, though the sweetness from the stone fruit I found distracting. Nice polenta though, and I did appreciate the levity and zing imparted by the greenery.


7oz. BURGER [$15.00] | house ground angus w/pickles + peppers + butter lettuce + cheddar cheese, served w/fries
Nothing wrong with the burger, either. It was a pretty classic take, with the properly beefy patty playing off of the cheddar, all underneath some tangy overtones of mustard. Pickles and lettuce completed the combo, which was effective though perhaps unexciting. Nice fries, too, though I wasn't as keen on its dipping sauce.


HALIBUT [$22.00] | vouvray, porcini, fava
Halibut was another special of the evening, and arrived cooked with Vouvray. The fish itself was as soft, supple, flaky and mild as you'd expect, and functioned as a fitting counterpoint to the savoriness of the porcini and fava present. My complaint here was that the bit of sauce atop the fish (crème fraîche perhaps?) rendered a certain tangy sweetness that just seemed off to me.


Dessert was a must, natch. Click for a larger version.


STICKY WHISKEY TOFFEE PUDDING [$8.00] | w/ whipped cream & toffee sauce
I enjoyed the pudding, finding it properly moist, with its mix of sugary and boozy flavors melding well with the comparative lightness of the cream here, all while the pinoli added some well-placed nutty nuances to the dessert.


SEASONAL FRUIT GALETTE [$6.00]
The galette was actually surprisingly delish, with a very pure, very pronounced apricot flavor that really captured and conveyed the essence of the fruit. Combined with the flaky crust, it formed a winning combination that was even better when taken with a bit of salty cheese.

Though Barber's cooking isn't as ambitious as what Jeremy Fox was going to put out here, Barnyard I think still works pretty well. It's a cozy sort of neighborhood place, with Cal-Med-ish cooking that's tasty and just compelling enough. Service was on point as well, making for an overall pleasant experience. Interestingly, word on the street is that Barnyard's owner is taking over the building next door as well, so I'm curious to see where that goes.

Night + Market (West Hollywood, CA) [4]

May 30, 2013, 7:50 pm

≫ Next: Nozawa Bar (Beverly Hills, CA)

≪ Previous: Barnyard (Los Angeles, CA)

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Night+Market Restaurant
9041 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.275.9724
www.nightmarketla.com
Thu 05/30/2013, 07:50p-10:10p



When I first visited Night+Market back in March 2011 shortly after it opened, I was a lil' wowed. Kris Yenbamroong's cooking was unlike any other Thai that I'd had before, a modern, hyper-regional exploration of his country's cuisine that was only made possible by the carte blanche that he'd been given in his new, minimalist space adjacent to his parents' old-line Thai joint Talesai. I knew he had something special here, a game-changer. I expected the place to catch on, but I'm not sure if anyone envisioned N+M to blow up as much as it has, and by blow up, I mean that shit cray. Let's recap:

• Oct 2011: Jonathan Gold writes an enthusiastic review of the restaurant. I like to think that I was one of the first to publicize the place, but it was the Goldster who really kicked off the Night+Market train.
• Nov 2011: Night+Market quickly secures a place on Gold's list of 99 Essential Restaurants.
• Jan 2012: Kris starts writing for the Huffington Post.
• Feb 2012: Kris becomes a semifinalist for James Beard's Rising Star Chef of the Year award.
• Apr 2012: In celebration of Songkran, Kris cooks in New York at Soho House with Christina Topsoe and James Murphy (LCD Soundsystem).
• May 2013: Following in the footsteps of David Chang, René Redzepi comes to LA and dines at N+M. Boom.
• Jun 2012: Josh Ozersky calls out Kris in his Time piece Talented, Young and Asian American.
• Jun 2012: Refinery29 deems the Chef one of LA's 30 Under 30.
• Jul 2012: Night+Market is featured in Bon Appétit and is likened to "LA's Pok Pok."
• Aug 2012: Los Angeles Magazine chooses Kris as one of their Chefs of the Year.
• Sep 2012: Kris goes to New York again to cook at City Grit and Meatopia.
• Sep 2012: Anthony Bourdain eats at Night+Market with none other than Jonathan Gold.
• Oct 2012: Kris redefines "food porn" by cooking with former adult film starlets Ashley Blue (Oriana Small) and Zoe Voss (Melissa Kimbro) for Hustler magazine.
• Feb 2013: Kris becomes a semifinalist for James Beard's Rising Star Chef of the Year award, again (oh snap).
• Feb 2013: Director Francis Ford Coppola dines at N+M; J.Gold's in the house, natch.
• Feb 2013: With Besha Rodell at the helm, N+M once again appears on LA Weekly's list of 99 Essential Restaurants.
• Mar 2013: Kris is named one of the Best New Chefs in California by Food & Wine, alongside Jordan Kahn, Ari Taymor, and Mike Voltaggio.
• Apr 2013: In celebration of Songkran, Night+Market hosts Pok Pok's Andy Ricker, one night only.
• May 2013: Jonathan Gold lists Night+Market as the 17th best restaurant in Los Angeles, right ahead of Bestia.

Not bad for a former film student with no formal training right?


Night+Market's menu remains much the same, a meat-centric celebration of ostensibly street food-inspired Thai cookery. I don't think items such as the pig tail, pork toro, sausages, or the wonderfully pungent kao kluk gapi will ever leave (nor should they), but I did spy newbies such as the nam prik ong and larb lanna. The Chef's newest inspirations, though, can be viewed on the hand-written specials menu that you should probably order (heavily) from. The wine list, meanwhile, is as cool and esoteric and reasonably-priced as it's always been, though I did notice that the number of Rieslings has doubled (to two). Click for larger versions.


Speaking of cool, esoteric, and reasonably-priced wines, we went baller style and ordered a magnum of the piège à filles rosé "girl trap" (bubbly côt/malbec), les capriades, loire '11 [$79]. It's one of the pétillant naturels that Yenbamroong's pushing right now, and he's right on the money. He describes it as "bubbly party time wine," and that's basically what it is. Think fun, breezy, and fruity, yet crisp, citrus-y, acidic, and dry, with just enough depth to make it a bit more than a mere summer quaffer.


koi tuna [$12.00] | raw. isan tuna ceviche. *spicy*
We delved right into the specials menu with a tuna version of the popular koi soy steak tartar. The fish was pounded into submission here, a smooth, silky, subtle base on which the amalgam of bright, acidic, and yes, fiercely spicy nuances could be heard. I loved the fragrant zing of the herbs here, which lent a modicum of levity to the in-yo-face flavors at play.


nam kao tod [$9.00] | crispy rice salad w/ spicy sour pork, ginger, chile, peanuts...
Nam kao tod is probably one of my favorite Thai specialties of all time, one that I first discovered at my local haunt Renu Nakorn. Night+Market's was like an amped up version of that, a bolder, lustier presentation that nonetheless shows off a faultless mélange of contrasting tastes and textures. That uncompromising balance is what gets me about the dish every time, a hodgepodge of disparate elements--sour, savory, spicy--that manages to work in perfect concert.


pad pak kanaa [$9.00] | chinese broccoli sautéed w/ garlic & chile
Yenbamroong's not really known for his facility with vegetables, instead focusing his efforts on more porcine pursuits, but the Chinese broccoli served tonight was stellar, probably the best presentation of the ingredient that I've had in fact. There was a fantastic crunch and bite to the kai lan, and its trademark bitterness was proudly showcased, flawlessly countered by the dark, savory flavors here, all while a creeping heat underscored the dish.


pork toro [$7.00] | grilled fatty hog collar. with 'jaew' northeastern chile dip
The pork "toro" has firmly established itself as one of Night+Market's signature dishes, and it's obvious why. It's an uncommon preparation of pig, unabashedly pork-y on the palate, with a springy, spongy consistency that seems to ooze fat when bitten into. All that richness is fortunately tempered by a tinge of char astringency, as well as the blast of piquancy from that jaew condiment. I still think this should be renamed pork kamatoro...


sai uah | chiengrai herb sausage [$6.00] | w/ noom salsa, cucumber
sai krok isaan | isaan sour sausage [$6.00] | fermented pork sausage. eat w/ raw cabbage, chile, peanuts. served a lil pink on the inside
The kitchen then sent out a duet of Night+Market's housemade sausages. The sai uah variety was wonderfully gritty and rustic, a hit of salty and spicy flavors beautifully countered by the liberal application of various herbs. Tasty alone, but even better when taken with a dab of noom, a slice of cucumber, and a couple slivers of ginger--the perfect bite. Sai krok Isaan, meanwhile, arrived in spherical form, a jolt of sour, ferment-y goodness that's probably not for everyone. It was, though, definitely for me, as I reveled in the tanginess of the meat and how it melded so seamlessly with the crunchy bits of peanut and bird eye chile.


panang en neua [$14.00] | beef tendon panang w/ roti
Phanaeng curry is a relatively common sight on Thai menus, but the version here really stands heads and shoulders above any others I've had. The meat was so, so tender, with a marked beefiness that went superbly with the wonderful aromatics and subtly sweet nuances in the dish. And damn, that roti flatbread was something else too; it's good enough to be offered separately as a side.


beef grapow [$11.00] | chile, garlic, thai basil. topped with a crispy fried egg
I'm not gonna lie; we ordered this because of the fried egg (it makes everything better right?). It was much more than just the egg though. The star of the show here was the namesake kraphao, or Thai holy basil, which lent a delightfully aromatic flair to the beef, making for a much more honest, less watered-down version of the dish than you typically find. The egg was just the icing on the cake.


mango and sticky rice [$8.00]
For dessert, the Chef gave us what amounted to probably the best khao niao mamuang I've had. We're right in the midst of mango season, and fruit was spot on--dense, juicy, supple, and sweet--and went perfectly with the sticky rice. However, what really set this apart for me were the savory, crunchy crumbles of mung bean atop the rice, which added that extra bit of kick that took the dish over the top.


ice cream sandwich [$4.50]
We ended with pretty much my favorite ice cream sandwich ever, one that married coconut ice cream, coconut sticky rice, condensed milk, evaporated milk, and toasted mung beans in a sweet roll. The multifaceted sweetness here was maaahvelous, a tour de force of coconut-y goodness that paired gorgeously with the slight char of the bread, all while the mung beans added a fantastic crispness to the dessert. An absolute must try.

The accolades that Yenbamroong's experiment in aharn klam lao has garnered are well deserved. But even if you look past all that, there's some damn fine cooking going on here. The food's as strong as ever; flavors are bold, hearty, and yes, quite spicy at times, a real departure from the formulaic Thai one typically encounters. Night+Market's so of-the-moment it hurts, a beacon of unbridled cookery that's quickly becoming one of the City's destination eateries. Despite all the successes though, the Chef is still confined by the limited space and setup of this location, and as such, is currently building out Night+Market 2.0, which should be debuting in the coming months in the Silver Lake area. More to come...

Nozawa Bar (Beverly Hills, CA)

June 5, 2013, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: IO by Playground (Santa Ana, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Night + Market (West Hollywood, CA) [4]

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Bar Nozawa at Sugarfish
212 North Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.276.6900
www.nozawabar.com
Wed 06/05/2013, 08:00p-10:10p





Sugarfish Beverly Hills opened recently in the old Madame Chocolat space, and the most interesting part of the debut was the acknowledgement of a "secret" bar in the back that would give diners a taste of the draconian practices of the original Sushi Nozawa. Indeed, the so-called Nozawa Bar is reservations-only; there's no menu--you eat what the Chef serves; no young kids are allowed; there are no modifications or substitutions; a minimum cancellation fee of $100 applies; and you eat fast, at a pace decided upon by the Chef. Just like old times right?

Kazunori Nozawa, though, is not to be found behind the bar (though he still does help buy the fish I'm told). Instead, the kitchen is helmed by one Osamu Fujita. Chef Fujita was born in Japan to a culinary family, and took an interest in the craft at an early age. He eventually made his way to the US, where he worked for Nozawa-san in Los Angeles before traveling around the country and opening various Japanese restaurants. The two have known each other for over 30 years.


Nozawa Bar doesn't have any sort of written menu, but you can expect an omakase of roughly 18 courses, priced at $150 a head, plus 18% service and 9% tax (there's also a cheaper $130 lunch option). You'll find a very abbreviated list of beverages available, and unfortunately, there is no option for corkage at the moment (which I hope will change). Click for a larger version.


To drink, we started with a round of Kirin Ichiban-Shibori [$8], a prototypical Japanese beer that was almost perfect for the situation: crisp, light, dry, a bit malty, yet with just enough substance to it.


1: Mozuku to Kani
Dungeness crab leg arrived sweet and supple, its pure, delicate goodness highlighted against the tangy, gelatinous base of mozuku seaweed in Japanese rice vinegar.


2: Kuromaguro to Tako no Sashimi
Next, a duo of sashimi, presented in Hokkaido wakame seaweed. Bluefin tuna came out soft, creamy almost, with a subtle, yet omnipresent salinity that was deftly brought out by a dab of soy. The live octopus was even better, showing off a beautiful texture, along with a mild taste that was perfectly accented by pinpoints of lemon and salt. We also enjoyed the suckers, or kyubaan, which had a delightful mix of crunchy and slimy consistencies.


3: Kuromagurotoro
Blue fin toro, meanwhile, was a beautiful example of the fish: melt-y and buttery, with a wonderfully briny finish. Great with a brush of murasaki.


4: Ika
Japanese squid was very solid as well, with a creamy, sticky body and a delicate taste, expertly perked up by pricks of salt and a finish redolent of shiso.


5: Uni
Sea urchin came from Santa Barbara, and was a paradigmatic presentation of the ingredient, conveying a cool, sweet, luscious flair that went perfectly with the umami-rich essence of the nori here.


6: Tarabagani
King crab was pretty fantastic, quite possibly the best piece of kani sushi I've had in fact. It blows the doors off the imitation crab that's so prevalent these days, displaying an utterly focused, true-to-form experience that I loved.


With the beers drunk up, we moved on to a bottle of the Nozawa Premium, Junmai, Saga Japan [$90]. It was a commendable sake: floral, fruity, and easy-drinking, with a smooth, yet dry character that transitioned to more boozy notes toward the close.


7: Hotate
Hokkaido scallop was lovely, sweet and cool by itself, but divine when paired with that sour-salty yuzukosho-ponzu sauce drizzled on top.


8: Kanpachi
Japanese amberjack was a great example of the fish: firm, snappy even, with a refined, creeping brine to it.


9: Isebi no Temaki
Our first hand roll of the night featured lobster, and was pretty spectacular. The cool, creamy bits of the crustacean were delish, conveying a certain sweetness that paired gorgeously with the rice and the roll's crisp, savory seaweed wrapper.


10: Kumamoto Kaki
The Kumamoto was the oyster that made me like oysters, and tonight they were in perfect form: crisp, firm, meaty examples that blended their ocean-y goodness with the heat of the chili ponzu, all while the scallions made for some great astringent overtones.


11: Ankimo
It'd been a while since I'd had monkfish liver, so this was a nice treat, one that came out looking a bit like apricot ice cream! The dish certainly did give us a sweetness though, with the miso-vinegar-egg yolk dressing providing a strong (almost too strong) counterpoint to the subtle, earthy-briny relish of the ankimo.


12: Kinmedai
Getting back to the nigiri now, golden eye snapper was simply superb texturally--soft, yet with substance--and conveyed a very balanced, very well-integrated salinity.


13: Ikura
Salmon roe was marinated in dashi, resulting in an amalgam of smoky, salty flavors that literally popped in your mouth. Very nice when taken with the nori.


14: Katsuo
Also to my liking was the skipjack tuna, served with a garlic ponzu. All the flavors here just came together beautifully, with the fish accentuated by its accompanying sauce while the scallion added an exclamation point on the back end.


15: Amaebi
Sweet shrimp was prepared with yuzu and shio, making for a spot on presentation of crisp, snappy amaebi that faultlessly balanced salt with a citric tartness.


16: Toro no Temaki
The toro hand roll was a textbook preparation of the dish, with the tuna, heightened by a dip in shoyu, really shining through as the star of the show.


17: Anago
A uniform cut of sea eel came out soft and hot, with a lovely sugary component in the sauce that made sense against the brininess of the fish.


18: Tamago
We ended our parade of sushi with the traditional closer of egg, only this time, it wasn't quite the version that we were used to. Instead, the omelet here came stuffed with both shiso and umeboshi, making for an experience that melded sweet and sour flavors over an eggy base, all with an overarching essence of mint. Very cool!


19: Raichi no Aisukurimu
Dessert comprised a sphere of stark white lychee ice cream, its refined, yet almost candied sweetness working well enough with the tart, juicy morsels of strawberry, blackberry, raspberry, and blueberry.


20: Hojicha
An excellent roasted green tea (à la Urasawa) was a natural ending to the meal.

Our meal tonight was a strong one to be sure. The food was pretty much spot on the entire night, with high quality ingredients near-impeccably prepared, and service was similarly on point as well (I also appreciated the lighthearted demeanor of Chef Fujita-san). It's like what I'd always wanted the original restaurant to be like, and is a fitting experience to carry on the Nozawa legacy. Sushi fiends take notice: there's another contender in the pantheon of top sushi joints in LA.

I think things could be even better, though, with a few minor tweaks. I like the change of pace here with the vaunted warm rice, but it does make the sushi harder to eat. What I think should be done is to have Fujita-san apply soy sauce and any other accoutrements before serving (the preferred modus operandi for high-end places such as Mori and Zo). This way, diners wouldn't have to struggle with the rice breaking apart as they dip pieces (an issue that I definitely struggled with). Maybe I've been spoiled by the likes of Ohshima and Shunka, but I'd also like to see a selection of more exotic fish, as well as more variation in the menu day-to-day, both of which would make for more replay value. Finally, it'd be nice to slow down a bit as well. Things aren't as hasty as they were in Studio City, but the pacing could've certainly been more leisurely, in order to allow us to better savor the experience.

IO by Playground (Santa Ana, CA) [2]

June 15, 2013, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Yamakase (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Nozawa Bar (Beverly Hills, CA)

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Invitation Only at Playground 2.0
220 E 4th St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
www.playgrounddtsa.com
Sat 06/15/2013, 07:00p-09:45p





My last experience at IO was something to behold, an ambitious, playful, and uncompromisingly delicious dinner that I deemed the best dining experience in Orange County. As such, it wasn't a question of if I'd return, but rather, when. Now, as we should know by now, a normal meal at IO is priced at $250 a head, inclusive of all food, beverage, tax, and service. However, for this series, entitled "I've Got Friends in Low Places," the price was reduced to a mere $180, a relative bargain that gave me a good excuse to go back. The reason for the discount? The focus of these dinners was placed squarely on vegetables and other underappreciated ingredients in the kitchen. Sounds interesting.


Like last time, we got started with team introductions by Jason Quinn and a brief spiel on what IO was all about.


1: WELCOME COCKTAIL | aperol solace spritz
Our aperitif this evening was a reimagined Spritz, made with Firestone Walker's Solace wheat beer in place of prosecco. It really was a fitting substitution, with a blast of wheat-y, yeasty, spicy beer notes initially, which then transitioned gracefully to the bittersweet Aperol. Light, fun, refreshing, with a pretty cool color to boot.


2: EPIC FIRST BITE OF MEAT | stuffed savoy cabbage, Iberico de bellota collar, and ???? ???? filling, port caramelized shallots, potato purée
Our first course really was sort of epic, name aside. I loved the delicate, yet profoundly earthy, overarching nuances of foie gras here, which really played beautifully against the lingering, pork-y flavors of the Ibérico. The cabbage worked perfectly as a light, crisp counterpoint to the meat, and I much appreciated the tempering effect of that potato purée as well (though I could've done without the shallots). Yum.


3: FRESH HAWAIIAN HEART OF PALM CEVICHE | grapefruit, orange, jalapeño, tortilla
I'm generally not a fan of heart of palm, but really enjoyed this dish. In fact, it was probably the strongest preparation of the ingredient I've had, with the contrasting forces of sweet, sour, savory, acid, and a creeping undercurrent of spice working in perfect harmony. The textures here were also superb, and I especially enjoyed the crispy strips of tortilla. So here we have it: proof that it's perfectly possible to have a great ceviche without any sort of seafood, or even meat.


4: JICAMA: AN UNEXPECTED HERO | fish sauce, palm sugar, crispy shallots, lime, serrano aioli
A lot of what I wrote about the ceviche above can also be said for the jicama, which I'm also typically none too fond of. Here, I adored the textures as well, and the interaction between the lime, serrano, and fish sauce was spot on, really coming together cohesively to breathe life into an otherwise boring ingredient. Fantastic savoriness from the shallots as well, which really underscored the dish. Best. Jicama. Ever.


5: GUACAMOLE INSPIRED BY MAX | fried avocado, corn nuts, lime-jalapeño-avocado mousse, tomato, cilantro, red onion
Here was what amounted to a reconstructed guacamole. It really did convey the essence of the classic dish, rendered in differing textures and temperatures, though I would've liked some more onion, tomato, and cilantro to give the dish a bit more acidity. Loved the crunch of the Corn Nuts here.


6: NITRO CACTUS PEAR MARGARITA
The staff then busted out the liquid nitrogen and mixed up a prickly pear margarita with 7 Leguas Blanco tequila (the real deal progenitor to Patrón), Cointreau, and lime. Taste-wise, this was pretty classic, with a great balance between sweet and sour flavors. What struck me most was the blazing magenta hue of the drink, as well as the soft, almost fluffy textures present.


7: GRILLED SWEET POTATO | lime marshmallow, hatch chile powder, pecan
I'm no fan of sweet potato (finding it, unsurprisingly, overly sweet generally), but Quinn and company worked it out, tempering its sugariness with some countervailing flavor profiles, the heat of the chile being particularly apropos. As one of my fellow diners remarked, this "tastes like Thanksgiving."


8: AJI AMARILLO TIRADITO | flute fish
We then commenced with a string of sashimi-style courses, with this first one serving as a sort of bridge between the influences of Latin America and Japan. It was none other than flute fish, or yagara, a real rarity that I'd only had before in sushi form at Shunka. It's a mild, delicate fish, serving here as a base on which the tangy, spicy aji amarillo could really sing.


9: BURNT MAUI ONION | albacore gently poached in ponzu, ponzu
Next, we had slices of albacore, lightly seared by being doused with hot ponzu, thus making for a great meaty bite to the fish. I also appreciated the sweet-savoriness imparted by the ponzu here, as well as how the onion gave the dish a sort of overarching char astringency.


10: BEET STAINED IVORY | ivory king salmon, horseradish, lemon, brioche, chive
Ivory king salmon is a variety of the standard fish that has an inability to process carotenoids, thus leaving its flesh white instead of orange. Here, it was given a splash of color via a beet cure. What surprised me was how well the horseradish cream cheese fared, imparting a lush, tangy character to the dish that really went along well with the fattiness of the fish. You could almost think of this as a sashimi-fied version of bagels and lox.


11: YUZU IS THE BEST CITRUS | shima aji loin, white soy
A beautiful platter of Japanese shima aji arrived next, dressed simply in yuzu and white soy. The pure, clean taste of the striped jack was dutifully highlighted here, accentuated by a splash of shiro shoyu and a fantastically ethereal whisper of citrus-y tartness from the yuzu.


12: BLACK GARLIC: BETTER THAN THE ORIGINAL | shima aji belly
Next, the belly of the striped jack was presented to us, doused in a black garlic vinaigrette. Here, the slightly more assertive relish of the belly actually stood up to the sweet-ish, syrupy sauce, which I was afraid would be completely domineering.


13: BUTTER LETTUCE WRAP | akaushi outside skirt, kimchi, ginger, scallion, peanut, crunchies
In my experience, I've found that American-grown wagyu just doesn't compare to its Japanese counterparts, but the Akaushi served tonight just might be an exception to that rule. I first tried the beef alone, and found it immensely flavorful, fatty, fantastically charred, and, unlike many skirts, properly tender. It was delicious to be sure, but the addition of the various accompaniments here really took the meat to the next level, adding beautiful layers of spice, astringency, and crunch. So good.


14: CAVA SANGRIA
A sangria of cava, white wine, vodka, and melon served as a perfect counterpoint to the heady flavors at play, and also the marked the start of our Spanish adventure. It really was delightful, showing off light, fruity, refreshing nuances with just a hint of boozy weight.


15: WHITE ASPARAGUS | chorizo vin, marcona almond ice cream
I'm quite the fan of asparagus, and the presentation here was one of the most intriguing I've had. The bitterness of the veggie was proudly displayed, masterfully offset by the tang of the chorizo. The crux of the dish, though, was that marcona ice cream, which was fantastic, really conveying the true taste of the almond while tying the course together beautifully.


16: CALÇOTADA EN SANTA ANA | grilled scallion, romesco, porron
Next, a homage to the classic Catalonian ingredient calçot. The scallions were grilled, and thus imbued with a marked char and bitterness that made absolute sense when taken with a dab of spicy, tangy romesco.


Along with the calçots came a porrón of beer, which Chef Quinn eagerly demonstrated for us.


Others, however, were not nearly as graceful with it.


17: GRILLED STUFFED PIQUILLO PEPPER | idiazabal, pedro ximinez
Here was a spot on rendition of a traditional tapas dish, with the piquillo coming out sweet, smoky, and utterly juicy, a perfect complement to the salty, gooey Idiazabal hidden within.


18: ITALIAN WHITE WINE | 2010 Bera Vittorio E. Figli, Arcese, IGT
With this, we transitioned to Italy. This was a drinkable wine, thick on the palate, with an apparent fruitiness initially that's cut by a certain stone-y minerality and bright hit of acid.


19: THE SCHIZOPHRENIC ZUCCHINI aka THE RAW ZUCCHINI EXPLOSION | different textures and subtle nuances a la Ryan Carson
I'm generally not a huge fan of zucchini, but the dish really showed off the vegetable in the best possible way. It arrived in grilled, pickled, smoked, and raw forms, dressed in a red wine vinaigrette and topped with garlic chips. It was nice to experience the various forms and facets of the zucchini, a bevy of textures and tastes overarched by a focused smoky character, all leading to a lingering finish redolent of mint.


20: MILK SKIN CAPRESE | heirloom tomatoes, maldon, herb lemon vin
Here was a take on the classic insalata Caprese, but one constructed from an admixture of milk skin, olive oil, and heavy cream instead of mozzarella or burrata. The result really was reminiscent of the real deal, with the "cheese" serving as a great platform on which to enjoy the meaty cuts of tomato and the zesty herb-lemon dressing.


21: THE POWER OF LEMON AND OLIVE OIL | atlantic black sea bass
One of the highlights of the meal was certainly this black sea bass, which I'm going to say was the best version of the fish I've had. It arrived pretty much flawlessly prepared, firm, yet yielding to the bite, with a delicate, yet delectable taste that paired in stellar fashion with its accoutrements, making for a perfectly balanced dish. The power of lemon and olive oil indeed.


22: GRILLED CAULIFLOWER STEAKS | sultana- almond- caper relish, cauliflower purée
"Steaks" of cauliflower were firm, dense, and yes, even "meaty," amplified in essence by the surrounding purée. They showed off the inherent goodness of the vegetable commendably, accentuated by the tangy, sweet, nutty notes of the accompanying relish.


23: FAVA BEANS, LIVER, A NICE CHIANTI | frisée, croutons, lemon, bacon
"A census taker once tried to test me. I ate his liver with some fava beans and a nice Chianti." If somehow you've been completely out of touch with pop culture for the last 20 years, that's the famous line from Hannibal Lecter that inspired this dish. Of course, we were merely talking about chicken liver here, not that of people, but it was tasty nonetheless. The liver conveyed all the deep, earthy notes you'd expect, countered here by lemon and frisée, all while the bacon added some well placed jolts of saltiness to the fray.


24: A NICE CHIANTI | 2010 Paterna, Chianti Colli Aretini DOCG
And here we have the aforementioned Chianti, nice indeed with its dry, somewhat tannic nature and loads of dark fruit.


25: POTATO & PORCINI RISOTTO | as simple as it sounds
As we know from my previous meal here, Max Hirsch is quite the risotto maven, and tonight he presented a version made not with rice, but with potato. It was as simple as it sounds, but also as delicious, with the potato and mushroom forming a delectable combination that worked wonders with the lush, creamy base of the dish. Fantastic texture on those cubes of patate, too. I wanted a larger bowl of the stuff!


26: BRAISED ARTICHOKE AND MUSHROOM RAGU | creamy polenta board, San Marzano
No, that's not a pizza, but rather a disk of polenta topped with a "ragù" of artichoke, mushroom, and San Marzano tomato. The lack of meat (a key part of ragù) didn't stop this from being delicious. In fact, I had a second serving of it, and reveled in the sauce's tangy, yet uncompromisingly savory relish, masterfully moderated by that creamy polenta.


27: CRAFTSMAN PERSIMMON SOUR
At this point, Playground's Beverage Director Jarred Dooley came out to introduce our next libation. It was, unsurprisingly given his background, a beer, specifically a Persimmon Sour from Pasadena's Craftsman Brewing Co. I rather enjoyed it, really appreciating its classic interplay between sour, sweet, and funky forces.


28: ROASTED BEETS | caviar ranch dressing a la Richard Blais
The meal then took on a more "American" inclination, beginning with a caviar-ranch concoction inspired by a recipe from Richard Blais's cookbook Try This at Home: Recipes from My Head to Your Plate. Of course, Quinn took the extra step to make his own ranch, and the results were promising. As regular readers will know, I generally abhor beets, but the dressing here actually made them palatable, moderating the vegetable's blunt sugariness with a blast of salty, creamy, blue-tinted goodness.


29: CITRUS GLAZED COUNTY LINE CARROTS | purée, pickled tartare
This is one for the carrot fiends out there. There was a lovely crunch here from the glazed presentation, but the key for me was the tartar, which showed off a pretty remarkable tanginess that managed to effectively counteract the sometimes overbearing sweetness in the vegetable.


30: WESTERN BACON CHEESEBURGER | hold the bacon cheeseburger
Imagine a Western Bacon Cheeseburger from Carl's Jr (I'm sure we've all tried it at one point in our lives); now take away the beef, bacon, bun, and even the cheese. What you're left with is something that does a pretty remarkable job of mimicking the flavor profiles of the original burger.


31: UNICORN | bread, raw, roasted, pudding, hokkaido
We ended the savory section of the meal with a commixture of raw and roasted corn and cornbread, set against an enveloping dressing featuring Hokkaido uni. The corn really was the star of the show here, putting forth a sweetness that sort of melded along with the flavors of the sea urchin. Nice textures from the bread, too.


32: KOKOS COCONUT CHEESE
Our "cheese" course comprised a convincing preparation made from 90% coconut. Texturally, it was pretty much spot on, and taste-wise, it wasn't far off either, really conveying the flavors of cheese, but with a marked coconut-y undertone.


33: COBBLER D'MONTENEGRO
Quinn mentioned that one of his favorite cocktails is this here cobbler, and I can see why. It's a straightforward marriage of Amaro Montenegro, lemon, and simple syrup that somehow manages to be more than the sum of its parts. I just loved the aromatic, herb-y qualities in the drink, and how that worked against the sweet-n-sour nuances present.

34: BEET CHEESECAKE AMUSE | salt roasted beets, Granny Smith vinaigrette, cream cheese curd, pine nuts
Somehow, I managed to forget to snap a pic of this course (it happens on rare occasion), but you can see a photo of it here from Andy Gavin's report on IO. That's a shame, though, as I thoroughly enjoyed it. The lactic tanginess of the cream cheese was spot on, serving as a fantastic counterweight to the heft of the beet, all while the pine nuts added a delightful crunch to the dish. Just a great, well-integrated little bite.


35: CARROT AND CITRUS | Valencia orange cake, carrot and ginger marshmallow sorbet, candied walnuts
Here, we're talking the bold, spicy zing of ginger paired with the sweetness of carrot, all over a lovely base of citrus cake, with the walnut acting as an interesting focal point to boot. Fun, and a surprise to the palate.


36: CHOCOLATE AND REPURPOSED COFFEE | Bittersweet cremeux, coffee cream, chocolate-almond shortbread
We then began an exploration of the various faces of coffee. Here, coffee grounds were mixed with a cream sauce, making for a bittersweet counterpoint to the classically chocolate-y flavors at play.


37: WHOLE BEAN COFFEE
Next, whole coffee beans (sourced from Portola Coffee Lab if I recall) were steamed for over two hours in the restaurant's combi oven. The result was a coffee experience unlike any other I've had, with an herbaceous, almost tea-like quality to the liquid that nonetheless conveyed the quintessence of the bean. Very cool.


38: COFFEE AVERNA
Finally, we were given ground coffee steeped in Amaro Averna. In this case, the taste of coffee was front and center, keenly complemented by the sweet, viscous liqueur.


39: LEMON AND FENNEL REFRESHER | frozen lemon mousse, dehydrated lemon meringue, pickled baby fennel
Our last plate perked up the palate with its zesty blend of fennel and lemon...


40: GOOD NIGHT | Beni di Batasiolo. Barolo Chinato
...Thus clearing the way for this 100% Nebbiolo Barolo Chinato, a perfect digestif and after dinner sipper with its minty, herbaceous, spicy facets.


This time around, we were given a printed menu at the conclusion of the dinner (a welcomed addition). Click for larger versions.

Quinn and his team once again delivered a standout episode of kitchen theater, melding modernity with tradition, highlighting ingredients in their best possible light while taking us on a trip to Mexico, Japan, Spain, Italy, and back. It was eye opening at times to see how some of the produce tonight was utilized and presented, and the overall experience tended toward fun, flippant, and facetious, yet was underscored by some serious cooking. I said it before and I'll say it again: this place needs to be on your culinary radar.

Yamakase (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

June 27, 2013, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Flores (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: IO by Playground (Santa Ana, CA) [2]

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Yamakase Restaurant
Los Angeles, CA 90034
www.yamakase.com
Thu 06/27/2013, 08:00p-01:40a



One of my favorite discoveries in recent times has been Yamakase, the semi-secret, omakase-only Japanese eatery opened by Chef Kiyoshiro Yamamoto and his business partner Stan Liu. I was really impressed by my dinner here last December, and had been thinking about a return visit ever since. This wouldn't be just any ol' meal though. No, I wanted a follow-up to our epic 1995 Champagne horizontal tasting at Urasawa. As such, we opted for a vertical tasting this time around, one featuring perhaps the most famous Champagne of them all: the house of Moët & Chandon's Dom Perignon. Oh, and it happened to be my birthday dinner as well!


Above, we see the extent of the restaurant. Yamakase comprises not much more than a singular bar surrounding the kitchen, one seating up to 11 diners.


We let Yama-san choose the ordering of wines, and he opted to go in chronological order, kicking things off with the 1978 Dom Perignon, the oldest in the group. It certainly tasted its age, coming in not very bubbly and with a distinct oxidative quality, giving in a sherry-like or maderized character joined by notes of nutty caramel. More interesting than good.


1: Hokkaido Uni
Moving into the food now, here was a spoon of Hokkaido uni, soft-boiled quail egg, and truffle salt, joined by a caviar-topped cucumber. It was a luxurious way to begin the meal, with the truffle-y overtones working beautifully with the sweet, creamy sea urchin, all while the egg lent a certain gravitas to the bite. I also appreciated the salty kick of the caviar here, as well as how the cucumber contributed both texture and lightness to the course.


What a difference two years make! The 1980 Dom Perignon was much fresher, though still mature, with a distinct breadiness and just a whisper of oxidation, all balanced by a lively acidity.


2: Ayoagi, Kisu, Tairagi
Here was a troika of orange clam, Japanese whiting, and pen shell, lightly dressed and accompanied by Naruto wakame and sesame. The sharp, focused brine of the various seafood was proudly conveyed, well-integrated and replete with a great mix of disparate textures. I especially appreciated the kisu fish, which had a firm, satisfying bite to it that was almost shellfish-like. Fantastic earthiness from the sesame as well, which did a great job moderating the strong flavors at play.


3: Kyoto Tofu
Now, the first of Yama-san's signature spoon duets. In the front, we had Kyoto tofu with tomato, olive, and truffle salt, in effect a sort of reimagined insalata Caprese. It really did recall the classic dish, with the tofu serving as a fitting replacement for mozzarella, the whole thing nicely balanced and imbued with a tinge of truffle goodness. This was followed up by a spoon featuring the tofu along with Japanese sea urchin and soy sauce. Here, I enjoyed the mild notes of the tofu at first, which then transitioned seamlessly to the richness and depth of the uni, while the finish was again suggestive of bean curd.


Yama-san grates from a massive block of salt that he's been using for at least 15 years.


4: Tai Hara
Our first course of sashimi brought us snapper belly dressed in crab innards sauce and sprinkled with yuzu. I quite liked this, with the fish serving as a dense, yet supple base on which the citrus and earthy kanimiso could really dance.


I'm happy to report that the 1982 Dom Perignon, my birth year wine, was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the evening. It was an eminently balanced bubbly, mature, yet remarkably vigorous, with a perfect toasty depth to it. A revelation in aged Champagne.


5: Kusshi Kaki
Kusshi oyster was the star of our second spoon duo. Up front, it was joined by Santa Barbara uni, yuzu, and Japanese sea salt. The citrus was key here, coming through forcefully on the attack, with the creamy, salty oyster-urchin combo making itself known from the midpalate to a long, lingering finish redolent of seawater. Bringing up the rear was Kusshi with blue crab, sesame cream, and truffle-infused egg. Here, the sweetness of the crab was the hero, joined by the nutty-earthy component from the sesame (though there was perhaps a bit too much of it), while the oyster once again came through on the close.


6: Kegani
Yama-san made an impressive display with these here hairy (or horsehair) crabs, which he dispatched right before us. They were prepared simply via steaming, and presented unadorned, thus giving us the true, tender, sweet essence of kegani. Tasty, though actually not all that different from your everyday crab.


Despite the torn label, the 1985 Dom Perignon was another winner. I found it surprisingly crisp and youthful, with a fantastic interplay of citrus-y and yeast-y notes, all underscored by a slight boozy undercurrent. Smooth, and even easy-drinking.


Here, we see Yama-san preparing our somen course. The pinkish noodles definitely caught our eye.


7: Hamo Somen
We're right around the peak of hamo eel season, so I wasn't surprised to see the conger pike featured tonight, joined by ruddy strands of umeboshi somen (a nod to the pickled plum typically served with the fish), junsai, and Japanese chive. I quite enjoyed this course, finding a great balance between the slightly tart noodles and the meaty, yet mild cuts of hamo, all while the chive added a modicum of levity to the fray. Interesting textural component from the water shield, too. Yum.


Here, Yama-san busts out his hamokiri knife and shows off his hamo honegiri bone cutting skills.


With the 1988 Dom Perignon, we switched glasses to the more traditional Champagne flute meant for younger wines. The '88 was actually surprisingly mature for its age, great on the nose, with a fruity, caramel-y, acidic, slightly oxidized character. Probably past its peak.


8: Kanpachi
Kanpachi came from Kumamoto on Japan's southerly Kyushu island. The amberjack was blanched by a quick dip in hot water, then served with a sesame-ponzu condiment. Texturally, I appreciated the fish's firm, meaty consistency, while its delicate flavor was keenly complemented, yet not dominated, by the sauce.


9: Kuromaguro
Bluefin tuna from Spain was cured in soy sauce and sake, mixed in with wasabi and pine nuts, then topped with sea urchin. The marination process added a considerable depth to the dish, but the key was the wasabi, which contributed a spicy undertone to the fish that made it rather interesting, especially when taken with the crunchy nutty bits here. I would've preferred thinner slices though, to make for a smoother, silkier mouthfeel to the tuna.


Our sole representative from the decade of grunge and O.J. was the 1995 Dom Perignon, which was all sorts of amazing. I loved the stone fruit undertones present here, and how the wine's crisp, citrus-y flavors interacted with hints of its toasty beginnings. A perfect balance between youth and maturity; I'm curious to see how this one develops.


10: Chawanmushi
Tonight's requisite chawanmushi featured Japanese sea urchin, Dungeness crab, baby scallop, junsai, and yuzu. It was a hot, hearty dish, a pleasant mish-mash of various tastes and textures overarched by pin pricks of citrus-y tartness.


11: Mushi Tai
Even more comforting was a soup featuring sake-steamed red snapper, root vegetables, shimeji, and kikurage, set in a Japanese gravy dusted with sansho pepper. I rather liked this one, finding it complex, multifaceted, with the briny, firm character of the fish melding well with the weight of the veggies, all while the pepper added an almost ephemeral spice to the dish. Lovely texture from the wood ear, too. Delish!


Moving on now to the young stuff, the 2002 Dom Perignon certainly tasted of its youth. It was dry, minerally, and uncommonly crisp, with a somewhat tart citrus-y twang. Tight and a bit austere now, but there's probably a lot of potential here.


12: Beef Sashimi on Toast
Raw beef was paired with crab and Italian truffle cheese, making for a sort of unholy cheese steak. It was as tasty as it sounds though, with the meat and cheese combo working in flawless fashion, all under a veil of truffle-y goodness.


Knowing that Yama-san would inevitably be serving some wagyu, I brought along a bottle of 2004 Chateau Pavie. It was superb, really reminding us of the joys of a top notch Bordeaux. I loved its dry, tannic, oaky, somewhat earthy character initially, when then transitioned beautifully to juicy notes of dark fruit on the finish. Impeccably balanced, nuanced, smooth, and uncommonly delicious--I want to try this again in a few years.


Speaking of beef, here we see Yama-san slicing a beautiful cut of A5 Kagoshima tenderloin.


13: Kagoshima Gyuniku
The aforementioned tenderloin was cooked to a medium-rare temperature, lightly doused with a soy sauce-onion condiment and truffle salt, then served with a small salad. The wagyu itself was particularly tender, gelatinous almost, with a marked beefiness that I found immensely satisfying. I appreciated the levity imparted by the salad here, but the sweet, tangy sauce wasn't all that necessary, as the beef could easily stand alone.


For the sushi courses to follow, we opened our last remaining Champagne, the 2003 Dom Perignon. This one showed off the youthfulness of the '02, but on an even larger scale. Think lots of citrus here, with a dry, steely minerality and bright acidity. Refreshing, but definitely in need of some cellaring.


14: Chutoro Sushi
Medium fatty tuna was a great example of the style, a deft balance of fattiness and fishiness with a light hit of soy initially to set the stage. Magnifique.


15: Toro Sushi
The full fat version was even better, with the intensity of the fish complemented, but not overshadowed by the application of truffle salt and wasabi.


16: Ki-Aji Sushi
Here was a "special" type of aji sourced from around Kyushu, one that Yama-san mentioned was particularly difficult to find in the US (99% of it stays in Japan we were told). Indeed, it was very mild, very subtle for mackerel, with a delicate, nuanced brine that grew in intensity toward the finish. Very cool.


17: Awabi Kayu
Our final savory course of the meal was undoubtedly one of my favorites, comprising a rice potage of six-day Japanese black abalone, yuba, zasai, and truffle butter. I loved the rich, hearty broth, positively imbued with umami-laced brine. The abalone itself was spot on as well, fantastic texturally and a great foil to the crunchy tang of the pickled mustard. Comforting and cozy, yet complex and multifaceted--something I could just eat a big heaping bowl of.


Yes, Yama-san's quite a ham for the camera.



Now we come to the evening's pièce de résistance in terms of wine, which, unsurprisingly given its age, had a rather uncooperative cork, forcing Yama-san to taken on drastic measures to dislodge it.


The 1961 Chateau Guiraud was a bottle that I'd been holding in my cellar for some time now, just waiting for the perfect opportunity to drink. Tonight was the night, and the wine did not disappoint at all. It was probably the best dessert wine I've had, and one of my most memorable wines overall, even surpassing the legendary '01 d'Yquem (though I'm sure that'll become much, much better with age--I'm still holding on to a bottle). The Sauternes was a gorgeous mahogany tone, and conveyed a subtle, subdued, refined sweetness that wasn't cloying or overly showy at all (a problem with younger wines). This was joined by some nutty notes, a tinge of acidity, and even some booziness, all making for a perfectly balanced, mature sticky. Still plenty of life left--this one really made me want to buy up more old Sauternes!


18: Asai Sorbet
Dessert consisted of an açaí berry sorbet, a bright, bracing creation that put forth contrasting notes of sour and sweet--great as a palate cleanser.


19: Ossetra Caviar
We thought we were done at this point, but then Yama-san busted out a beautiful tin of Ars Italica Italian oscetra caviar that he'd just purchased in the morning. We then took spoonfuls of the salty, yet somehow creamy roe and ate it with the Guiraud, the Sauternes really bringing out the salinity of those globules. An over-the-top, luxurious, yet fitting conclusion to the meal.

Dinner tonight came out to a not-unreasonable $216 per person for food only, with all the booze purchased and brought separately (there's no corkage fee here). The meal served as sort of a confirmation that the Chef here has a unique style that's quite unlike that of any of his contemporaries in LA. Yama-san's got a certain brashness and irreverence to him that I adore, as well as a knack for presenting unique, luxurious ingredients in a fashion that blends tradition with some fusion-y elements. The end result is an experience worth seeking out to be sure--get a seat here if you can.

Flores (Los Angeles, CA)

July 1, 2013, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Corazon y Miel (Bell, CA)

≪ Previous: Yamakase (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Flores Restaurant
2024 Sawtelle Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
424.273.6469
www.floreslosangeles.com
Mon 07/01/2013, 08:15p-11:00p





The latest addition to the burgeoning Little Osaka dining scene opened on June 11th in the old Sawtelle Kitchen space. Flores is the work of Stanford grad and home accessory designer Amal Flores, who constructed the restaurant in the building that, decades before, was home to Greenson Gallery, where his sculptor father Gene Flores exhibited back in 1969. The kitchen here is run by the husband-and-wife team of Rob Lawson (Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Gordon Ramsay) and Angela Hernandez (The Bazaar, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Corton). Also on board is Spaniard Cesar Bermundez Cifuentes, who comes to us from Barcelona and handles Pastry Chef duties. The front-of-the-house, meanwhile, is headed by General Manager and San Francisco native Dagny Mendelsohn (Macao Trading Company, Employees Only, Bar 11, Schiller's, Pastis, all in NYC), while Serge Milenkovic (RivaBella, Little Dom's) helms the beverage program.


Flores' menu emphasizes the modern rustic mantra that's all the rage these days, but the plates seem to exude a bit ambition than the norm. As far as the drinks go, you'll find a reasonably-priced wine list assembled by Milenkovic, along with a smattering of beers as well. In the future, look out for breakfast, lunch, and even brunch options. Click for larger versions.


We wanted to start with something fun and fizzy, and thus went for a bottle of the Carletto Prosecco NV [$29]. It was a lightweight sparkler: crisp, acidic, and effervescent, with a sweet, apple-y character to it and a slightly boozy backbone.


Deviled Eggs [$6.00] | crispy pig ear, pimenton
Being the egg floozy that I am, these were a no brainer, and as tasty as I'd imagined. The egg was clearly the hero, but I loved the hit of salt added by the crunchy bits of pig here, as well as how the paprika imparted an undercurrent of spice to the dish.


Pig Cheek Croquetas [$10.00] | seaweed aioli
Pork was also used to good effect here, with the croquettes coming out crisp-creamy and undeniably piggy, nicely tempered by the tangy taste of those pickles.


Ocean Trout Crudo [$14.00] | lemon and crème fraiche
A crudo of trout was excellent, with the supple, yet substantial fish really coming to the fore, positively imbued with a fantastic, lingering smokiness and brine that paired swimmingly with the classic flavors of crème fraîche and dill.


Kanpachi Ceviche [$14.00] | young thai coconut, lime, grapefruit
The amberjack ceviche was similarly superb, with the fish forming a great base on which to really enjoy the bright, aromatic, Asian-y flavors at play. You probably want to get this.


Tokyo Turnips [$8.00] | wakame butter
Tokyo turnips were crunchy and juicy, with a mild, vegetal relish that made sense with the savory, umami-laden butter.


Fresh Naps, just in case we got our hands dirty with the next course.


Grilled Prawns [$16.00] | cajun spice, lemon aioli
Prawns were lovely, thoroughly cooked, yet not overdone, with a delightful char to go along with their inherent sweetness. I loved the Cajun seasonings here as well, which managed to complement the shrimp without dominating it. Great exclamation point from the lemon, too.


Chicken Liver Bruschette [$12.00] | beetroot, cherries, bacon
The bruschetta was on point as well, with a deft balance between sweet and liver-y flavors interjected by salty pricks of goodness from the bacon. I really appreciated the juiciness of the cherries here to boot.


For our heartier courses, we ended up opting for the Clos de Gilroy, Grenache, Central Coast 2012 [$39]. I quite liked this one, finding it a very drinkable, velvety example of Grenache, spicy and herby at first, with a juicy smack of berry fruit coming in later. Yum.


Broccolini [$9.00] | garlic, chile, lemon
Moving on to the righthand side of the menu now, we began with the broccolini, which was rather nice. What struck me here was the sheer smokiness of the vegetable, which lingered long on the palate, tempered by the zestiness of lemon and a subtle veil of heat from the chile.


Meatballs [$13.00] | tomato, olive, mint
Meatballs were classic in essence: meaty, straightforwardly satisfying spheres underscored by a delicate touch of minty levity. Particularly enjoyable when taken with the included bread.


Poach Egg & Stewed Beans [$13.00] | smoked ham hock
Next up was the dish formerly known as Texas caviar. I say "formerly," as the restaurant was forced to change the name because customers were ordering it expecting actual fish roe. In any case, it was a commendable version of the American Southern specialty, with the beans conveying a nice weight to them, balanced by the bright, tangy flavors in the course, all while the ham added a backbone of saltiness to the mix. You can't go wrong with that poached egg, either. My only complaint here was that the accompanying bread was overly chewy.


Soft Shell Crab Sandwich [$15.00] | avocado, green tomato, brioche
I had some trepidations about the soft shell crab, but the kitchen worked it out here. The SSC itself was actually surprisingly tasty, properly crispy with nice depth of flavor to it that paired well with the various accoutrements, the sweetish brioche roll especially. Lovely tangy counterpoint from the okra, too.


Hanger Steak [$24.00] | pomme puree, smoked beef fat jus
The hanger was a prototypical example of the steak, with the meat coming out not particularly tender, but loaded with deep, smoky nuances and a nice crust. I liked how its flavors were augmented by the jus here, as well as the crunch and bitterness of the radicchio, but the onions were a touch sweet for me. The pommes puree, meanwhile, was pretty much spot on, a laudable representation of the dish that just worked beautifully with the steak.


Above, we see Cifuentes' dessert menu, short but sweet. Click for a larger version.


Blackberry Cobbler [$8.00] | creme fraiche ice cream, maple syrup
Cifuentes' cobbler was a worthy effort from someone's who'd never made one prior to this. It was exactly what you'd expect: hot, sweet, and fruity, with the crumbly crust moderating everything, all while the ice cream contributed a modicum of lightness to the dessert.


Strawberries [$12.00] | vinegar caramel, yogurt espuma
Strawberries, meanwhile, were pretty amazing, some of the sweetest I've had in fact, their natural flavor enhanced by the sugary swipes of caramel in the bowl, with the yogurt serving as the perfect foil.


Lemon Posset [$10.00] | almond, cognac
A posset of lemon was similarly delicious, with the sourness of the lemon faultlessly paired with the dessert's sweet, boozy notes. Utterly refreshing, with some great textures, too.


Chocolate & Olive Oil [$10.00] | citrus, lemon marshmallow
Chocolate and citrus were married here in commendable fashion, with the olive oil really showing through as a savory component, underscoring the entire dish. A smart exploration of sweet and salty coming together.


Banana Ice Cream [$3.00]
We had to try one of Flores' housemade ice creams, and ended up with banana. It was a great choice, with the dessert really displaying the pure, unmitigated essence of the fruit. If that wasn't enough, the sweet, cinnamon-y crumbles here worked as a perfect complement. Delish.

Hernandez and Lawson have aimed pretty high with their cooking here, and have hit the mark almost completely. The duo seems to touch upon all the notes that are so prevalent in the LA culinary landscape these days, presenting a menu that's approachable and unfussy, farm-to-table and whatnot, yet have done so with a certain finesse, a certain panache that elevates their cuisine above the norm. I came away from dinner quite satisfied indeed, and am curious to see where the team takes it from here.

Corazon y Miel (Bell, CA)

July 3, 2013, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Mori Sushi (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Corazón & Miel Restaurant
6626 Atlantic Ave, Bell, CA 90201
323.560.1776
www.corazonymiel.com
Wed 07/03/2013, 08:15p-12:20a





Bell is best known for two things: corruption of its municipal leadership, and La Casita Mexicana. However, it can add a third item to that list with the opening of Corazon y Miel ("heart and honey"), which undoubtedly represents another step towards the City's culinary legitimacy. The restaurant is the work of Salvadoran-American chef Eduardo Ruiz, Travis Hoffacker, and managing partner Robin Chopra. Ruiz cooked for two years at Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo's seminal Animal, and also worked a stint at Diego Hernandez's Corazón de Tierra in Baja. In 2011, he formed catering company Whim Kitchen with Chopra. The two LA natives were actually childhood friends, and reconnected once Ruiz started culinary school in Pasadena, realizing that they both shared a passion for food. Whim started off hosting underground dinners in a series called "Under the Table," and soon their catering business began to take off as well. As such, they took over Corazon y Miel's space, intending to use it to expand Whim, but eventually decided to turn the building into a restaurant, bringing on board Cali Banh Mi's Hoffacker, a friend of theirs, in the process. The much-needed restaurant debuted on March 2nd this year.



Corazon y Miel occupies the site once home to a cocktail lounge, a fairly intimate space with perhaps room for 50 diners. A bar dominates one side of the structure, while tables line the other. There are also three small booths at the front, as well as a private room in the back that I'm not sure is being used for anything at this point.


Votiva Margarita [$10.00] | Our house Margarita served in a traditional Mexican candle glass, Cherry "Wick"
Platoon of Death [$8.00] | El Pelotón de la Muerte Mezcal, Habanero Shrub, Sour Chili Rim
Speaking of those three booths, we took a seat at one of them and ordered up some cocktails as we waited for our table to get ready. First was the restaurant's signature Votiva Margarita, a beautiful rendition of the classic drink with its balance of tartness and sweet spice. The Platoon of Death, meanwhile, was much more in-your-face, a thick, viscous shot that gave up intense blasts of sour, spicy, smoky, and salty flavors, all leading to a boozy burn on the finish.


We also took the opportunity to examine some of the original artwork on display, much of which is available for purchase, at very reasonable prices I might add.


Salva-Rita [$10.00] | El Pelotón de la Muerte Mezcal, Cointreau, Lime, Agave
Buho Rojo [$10.00] | Milagro Blanco, Pineapple Juice, Amaretto, Grenadine, Lime
The Salva-Rita was an ostensibly Salvadoran riff on the margarita, and had its own charms as well, a very balanced, well-integrated cocktail with a pleasing backbone of mezcal. The Buho Rojo was similarly delicious, with loads of pineapple on the attack leading to a remarkably sweet, floral spice that made it quite easy drinking.


Corazon y Miel's menu has expanded in both scope and price since opening, and features Chef Ruiz's updated takes on pan-Latin classics; some have even likened the food to a Latino version of Animal. We went for the "Fire the Menu" option, which allows diners to sample everything on the menu for $175, a substantial discount compared to ordering each item individually. To drink, cocktails (and there are a lot of 'em) are a must here. The restaurant opened with Christian Pulido behind the bar, but I believe he's gone, replaced by the capable Darwin Manahan. There's also a smattering of surprisingly interesting beers available, and even a couple wines, if you insist. Click for larger versions.


Patatas Fritas [$4.00] | house potato chips, scallion ash dip
Housemade potato chips were spot on: salty, crunchy slivers of patata goodness that I could easily munch on alone. However, that scallion ash condiment was uh-mazing, a smoky, deeply-flavored, and beautifully-tinted dip that had me wanting more.


Avocado Frito [$6.00] | avocado, coconut, mango & habanero chutney
The fried avocado was a fun little dish. The hero here was clearly the aguacate, its lush, creamy character on display, joined by a fantastically crisp, savory, coco-crust and hints of sweetness from the chutney. Interestingly enough, this item also appears, unchanged, on the dessert menu.


"Dulce de Puerco" [$5.00] | bacon, dates, whipped cotija cheese, mustard seed cider
Here was an updated version of the ubiquitous dish of bacon-wrapped dates, a Latin-ized version of Suzanne Goin's famed preparation if you will. The classic interplay between salty and sweet was well represented here, accented by a delightful touch of char and the creamy weight of the cotija.


Wedge Salad [$8.00] | iceberg, chili de arbol blue cheese, bacon & potato crisp, herbs
Ruiz's riff on the classic wedge salad was certainly commendable as well, with the crisp, juicy shards of lettuce melding gorgeously with the zesty, piquant dressing, all while the crispy bits added lovely pinpoints of saltiness to the fray.


Corazon y Miel [$3.00]
Corazon y Miel's namesake dish did not disappoint, coming out as a tiny bowl of chicken hearts, mixed in with a honeyed dressing, cilantro, and red onion. The corazones showed off a satisfying bite, with a lingering, earthy savoriness to them that was keenly tempered by the tang and sweetness of its accoutrements.


Ceviche de Corazon [$11.00] | shrimp, octopus, burnt peanut, house tortilla chips
The ceviche was universally praised at the table, and with good reason. The combo of shrimp and octopus was on point: tender, yet with a good bite, a perfect match for the bright flavors at play and the slight undercurrent of heat in the dish. What took this over the top, though, was the use of peanut as cancha, which added a marvelous, smoky, nutty component to the course. Fantastic textures on this one, too.


Jalapeño y Tocino [$6.00] | bacon, jalapeño, chorizo, street corn salad
In this oft-referenced "homage to street food," a singular jalapeño is stuffed with chorizo, wrapped in bacon, and placed atop a mound of corn. It's about as tasty as it sounds, a mélange of salty and spicy flavors moderated by the creamy sweetness of elote, all with the red onion on top adding a bit zing to the mix. Yum.


Ensalada de Cueritos [$7.00] | pig skin 2 ways, chili con limon, candied citrus zest
Here we had a duet of pork rind. The first was the cueritos, in which the pig skin is pickled, resulting in a slick, snappy, jellied consistency. It was actually restrained in its porkiness, with a pretty delicate flavor on its own that worked well with the sharply citric, spicy notes in the dish. We also had some classic chicharrones, crunchy, salty, and oh-so satisfying, perfect for scooping up the cueritos. Along with the course came a small taster of Coronado Brewing's Orange Avenue Wit, which ended up pairing perfectly with the pork, its bright, spicy, citrus-y flavors working hand-in-hand with the dish.


Carnitas Estilo Francés [$8.00] | pork rillete, coke reduction, pickled vegetables
Ruiz's version of pork rillettes was uncommonly tender (and quite uncommon, overall), yet expectedly porcine. The Coke reduction here was fortunately restrained in its sweetness, but the key was the pickled veggies, which added a countervailing crunch and tartness to the dish that really balanced things out.


Pelón y Beso [$8.00] | Milagro Blanco, Casera Margarita Mix, Liquid Tamarind Candy, Habanero Shrub
Vino De Iglesia [$8.00] | Chamomile Infused Sake, Elder Flower, Luxardo Maraschino, Grenadine, Lemon, Fresh Cherries
Lima Prohibida [$10.00] | Barsol Pisco, Luxardo Maraschino, Grapefruit, Lime, Piloncillo, Peychaud's Bitters
More cocktails. The Pelón y Beso conveyed a sour, puckering quality to it, joined by a sweet spice from the tamarind and a finish redolent of habanero. It even comes with an extra shot (beso) to share. Next was the Vino De Iglesia, my favorite of the trio with its soft, smooth nuances and deft mix of sweet, fruity, and floral flavors. The Lima Prohibida, finally, conveyed a sharp, tart, citric base with undertones of booze, tempered by just a whisper of piloncillo sugariness.


Wild Boar Chilaquilles [$14.00] | guajillo, roasted carrot crema, queso casera, fried egg
Corazon y Miel's take on chilaquiles was quite to my liking. I loved the sheer mix of different tastes and textures here, but with the spicy, savory, deeply-flavored boar remaining the clear star of the dish. There's lots going on here, but it all comes together cohesively (and deliciously).


Market Fish [$15.00] | steelhead trout, black mole, cassava, pickled cauliflower, red onion, almonds
Steelhead arrived flaky, juicy, and super buttery, with a hearty, mole-kissed flair to it that went superbly with the starchy cassava, all while the cauliflower and onion added a great counterbalancing acidity to things.


Corn & Black Bean Sopes [$14.00] | fried masa biscuit, corn salad, black bean guisado, pickled onion, habanero
Sopes were classic in essence, as well as delicious. The thick, hefty masa formed a substantial base to the dish, on top of which the corn and black bean really worked together, making for a straightforward, satisfying combination perked up by the kick of habanero and onion.


Arroz con Pollo [$13.00] | marinated quarter chicken, chorizo & chickpea rice, cherry tomato & jicama salad
Chicken came out tender, juicy, and with a good depth of flavor to it. Even more interesting, though, was the arroz, which had a nutty, sweet, earthy character that, when paired with the jicama, made for a really interesting, multifaceted compliment to the bird.


Churrasco a la Plancha [$20.00] | sirloin strip, chimichurri, black bean guisado, fries
The most expensive item on the menu is actually worth a try. The steak wasn't the most tender, but was positively teeming with succulent, beefy goodness. It was certainly enjoyable alone, but the accompanying chimichurri was simply marvelous, adding a bevy of bright, tangy notes to the dish that really paired perfectly with the heady flavors of the meat. The stewed black beans and fries on the side weren't anything to sneeze at, either.


Lomo Hash [$16.00] | petite tender, potatoes, bell peppers, poached egg, wasabi
Ruiz's tenderloin hash was certainly one of my favorites of the night. The meat itself was pretty much spot on--juicy, tender, and with a pretty remarkable lushness for lomo. The combination of potatoes and peppers just made absolute sense with the meat, and I loved the overarching lushness of that egg, too. Didn't really get much wasabi, though.


Salsa Verde [$12.00] | Milagro Blanco, St. Germain, Cucumber, Cilantro, Jalapeño, Lime
Mojito [$9.00] | Flor de Caña, Lime, Sugar, Mint Soda
The Salsa Verde, unsurprisingly, tasted like salsa verde, but one with a distinct sweet-sour component to it, livened up by an overarching cucumber presence. One of my dining companions also ordered a Mojito, my old standby. It was a classic interpretation of the drink, pretty much flawless, with a particularly appealing minty quality to it.


Pork Belly Sandwich [$10.00] | spicy adobo bbq, celery blue cheese slaw, fries
At this point, we moved on to the meat-between-bread portion of the menu, and first to act was this BBQ pork sandwich. The belly itself was meltingly tender, with a marked spicy sweetness to it, though it veered overly sugary for me, especially when taken with the sweet-ish roll. Fortunately though, the celery slaw made short work of the dish's heftiness, cutting through it all with aplomb.


Atlantic Burger [$11.00] | lamb, lime aioli, curtido, rajas de chile, cotija whip, fries
More to my liking was the Atlantic, which really showcased the earthy, heady savor of lamb. Indeed, the patty's ovine flavors were proudly conveyed here, only slightly tempered by the mount of veggies and cotija on top.


Corazon Burger [$10.00] | beef, bacon, grilled panela, sweet jalapeño onion relish, fries
Corazon y Miel's signature burger wasn't much to look at, but the flavors were definitely there. The beef was clearly the hero, coming out immensely juicy and brimming with mouth-watering meaty goodness. I appreciated the masterful application of panela here, and the salty, crunchy bacon worked wonders, too.


Pan con Chompipe [$16.00] | 2 pound salvadoran turkey leg sandwich
The menu's most visually-arresting piece is likely this slow-cooked turkey leg, inspired by Ruiz's grandmother. The meat was literally falling-off-the-bone tender, with a deep, salty, profound savor to it that was expertly balanced by the mounds of crisp, bright veggies piled atop, all while the accompanying roll remained pretty much useless.


Capirotada [$6.00] | mexican bread pudding, ice cream, figs, walnuts, fig syrup
On to the desserts now. Ruiz's version of the traditional capirotada was something to behold, a sweet, sticky, uncompromisingly figgy bread pudding that was all that I'd hoped it would be.


Boca Negra [$6.00] | chocolate cake, chipotle custard, ancho whip
The "black mouth" will appeal to chocolate lovers, the cake coming out dense and rich, with a smart savory component from the use of chilies, all while the blackberries added a tinge of fruity tartness to the mix.


Niños y Buñuelos [$6.00] | fried banana, ice cream, cinnamon sugar, caramel
My favorite of the desserts was this fantastic preparation of fried banana. The banana was beautifully presented, wonderfully fruity, and encased in a crisp, sugary wrapper just loaded with cinnamon-y spice. If that wasn't enough, the vanilla ice cream formed a perfectly cool counter to the banana that took the dish over the top. A must try.


Mexican Fruit Popsicle [$2.00]
We closed with one of CyM's popsicles, this one rendered in coconut. It displayed a very focused, true-to-life sweetness, replete with coconut flakes in the popsicle itself and a fizzy, almost Pop Rocks-esque sensation in the mouth.


Lots of leftovers: the result of attempting the "Fire the Menu" with a team of four not-so-prepared eaters.

Corazon y Miel just might be the most ambitious restaurant to open in Bell in, well, ever. I was quite a fan of how Ruiz was able to take his unmistakably Latin flavors and translate them to a more contemporary aesthetic, sort of melding the types of food he grew up with the of-the-moment style of cooking that's all the rage these days. It's an intriguing, curious take on the cuisine that manages to be fun, yet serious and substantial at the same time. Finally, another reason to make the schlep down to Bell!

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Mori Sushi (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

July 13, 2013, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Plate by Plate 2013 Ticket Giveaway

≪ Previous: Corazon y Miel (Bell, CA)

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Mori Sushi
11500 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064
310.479.3939
www.morisushi.net
Sat 07/13/2013, 08:00p-10:20p





Since debuting in 2000, Morihiro Onodera's eponymous restaurant has firmly established itself as one of the premier sushi spots in the Southland, second or third behind the epicness that is Urasawa. My last visit back in 2011 was spot on, really great, and, coincidentally, occurred right before Mori-san sold the place to his second-in-command, one Masanori Nagano. Now, Nagano had been a chef here from almost the very beginning, so I'm sure that the restaurant was left in good hands. Two years into this new ownership regime, a revisit made sense.


To drink, I started off with the Allagash White [$7.50], a refreshingly crisp, spicy witbier that paired quite well with the food.


1: Tofu
As before, things commenced with a block of homemade tofu, topped with a dollop of freshly-grated wasabi and accompanied by a thimble of shoyu. The tofu, unsurprisingly, tended toward mild, with the soft, silken curd playing off of the dark flavors of the soy sauce, all while the wasabi added a crucial accent to the dish.


2a: Edamame
Next was a long plate holding five little bites (the zensai). I worked my way right to left, and first up was the edamame, a "special" preparation that was exactly what I wanted, with the soy beans melding with the tangy strands of miyoga in laudable fashion.


2b: Tomato to Okura
A singular tomato (from the Santa Monica Farmers Market) set in a vinegar-y sauce, meanwhile, was superb: utterly juicy and sweet, but with a bit of tartness, as well as a texture that was quite unlike anything I'd experienced before. The okra was similarly on point, subdued and almost dainty, restrained in its mucilaginous qualities.


2c: Awabi
Abalone arrived satisfyingly chewy, with a great bite to it and an umami-laced brine that was augmented by the earthiness of the gastropod's liver.


2d: Ichijiku
Figs were also excellent, their sweetness commingling beautifully with the nuttiness of the accompanying black sesame condiment.


2e: Mehikari
We ended with my favorite item of the quintet, a fried preparation of a deep sea fish known as "round greeneyes." It was fantastic, a symphony of disparate textures (as the mehikari was eaten whole, soft bones and all) joined by a delicate, yet completely satisfying ocean-y relish.


3: Sazae
This impressive looking specimen is known as the horned turban, or turban shell. It was cooked tsuboyaki style, and topped with a quail egg. The resulting dish was quite something, the flesh of the sea snail coming out firm, snappy, and satisfying, with a delightfully subtle bitterness to it, all moderated by the lushness of that egg. When we were all done with the meat, we eagerly supped down the remaining "liqueur," all briny and umami-laden, from the shell.


4: Ayu no Shioyaki
Sweetfish from Japan was grilled simply in the shioyaki manner. As the name would imply, its soft, delicate flesh conveyed a certain sweetness to it, one that melded seamlessly with the salty, savory notes and bitter char nuances present. Note, too, the wavy shape formed by the fish, a traditional flourish meant to evoke the act of swimming. Yum.


5: Tai no Kobujime
Wild Japanese snapper came out kobujime style, which means that the fish was treated with kelp. Indeed, the essence of the kombu was very apparent initially, but then gave way to the lingering heat of wasabi over an austere, complex base of tai.


6: Hotate
Hokkaido scallop was pure and sweet, with a bit of wasabi spice at the beginning along with a fantastic ocean-y taste on the close.


7: Hiramasa
Yellowtail kingfish from Japan was a summertime treat, firm with a bit of bite and a delicate, slightly sweet taste that played off the 'sabi commendably.


8: Kuromaguro
The first of three tunas was a wild blue fin varietal that was delightfully melty on the palate, with a focused flavor that was duly enhanced by the murasaki drizzled on top.


9: Mebachi
Big eye tuna came from Ecuador, and was even silkier in consistency, with a lighter, livelier taste to it vis-à-vis the preceding cut.


10: Kuromaguro Chutoro
Bluefin toro was of the "medium-plus" type, and was indeed wonderfully fatty, creamy almost, and verging on melt-in-your-mouth.


11: Kamasu
The kamasu (oft described as "barracuda") was fantastic, with a pretty profound richness and depth to it that was joined by a delightful smoky component.


12: Kohada
Gizzard shad was beautifully presented, its silvery skin glistening. It was cured in vinegar, as is typically done with the fish, and was firm to the bite, with a strong, assertive salinity to it that paired well with the tangy notes present.


With the beer gone, we went with a bottle of sake, specifically the Koshino Kanbai Muku Junmai [$87], brewed by Ishimoto Shuzo out of Niigata. The "Pure Realm" came recommended by our server, and he didn't lead us astray. Think a base of rice-y goodness, very balanced, with an omnipresent, yet restrained fruity sweetness and just a touch of boozy heat toward the end.


13: Iwashi
It was great to see sardine presented, the fish coming out wonderfully slick on the tongue, with a focused brine to it that mixed beautifully with the bright combo of ginger and scallion.


14: Aori Ika
Japanese bigfin reef squid was creamy and sticky, with a very subtle taste to it that was nicely complemented by the soy sauce.


15: Mirugai
Crisp, crunchy geoduck came with a sprinkle of salt and a splash of yuzu, perfect accoutrements to the clam's inherent sea-like savor.


16: Ikura
Salmon roe was marinated in a soy-based broth, which did a great job augmenting the natural salinity of the eggs. These had a lovely "pop" to them as well, and the nori wrapper was great in tempering the strong flavors at play.


17: Karei Engawa
Now, as we all know by now, engawa usually refers to the chewy fin muscle of halibut. However, in this case, we had the fin of Japanese flounder, or karei. To me, this one was all about texture. I found it even crisper, even more tendinous than halibut fin, with a very subtle flavor.


18: Kinmedai
Golden eye snapper from Japan was delicious, with a fantastic char-like bitterness to it that made for an eminently balanced bite.


19: Santa Barbara Uni
Mori is somewhat known for its presentation of two types of uni back-to-back. In this corner we had the Santa Barbara variety, which was cool and creamy, though not as sweet as I was expecting. Quite nice, especially when taken with the seaweed.


20: Hokkaido Uni
The Hokkaido version was sharper, with a more focused brine and a steelier consistency. I'd actually have to give it the victory on this night, a reversal from the decision last time.


21: Anago
The Japanese sea eel was quite unlike any other I've had. It was literally falling-apart tender, with a marked sweetness to it that transitioned to a more ocean-y character on the close.


22a: Tamago
The appearance of tamagoyaki almost always signifies the end of a sushi meal, and tonight we were presented two varieties. The first was the more traditional preparation, arriving cool, sweet and eggy, with a firm, juicy, somewhat dense texture.


22b: Tamago
The second was Urasawa-esque, almost cake-like and made using shrimp purée. It had a more multifaceted taste to it, with less sugariness and more salinity.


23a: Tofu Blancmange
Our first of two desserts was a blanc-manger, which perfectly blended the essence of tofu with a wonderful sweetness, all balanced by a sort of overarching piquancy.


23b: Shoyu Aisukurimu
The soy sauce ice cream, meanwhile, was something else, and by something else, I mean all sorts of awesome. There was a chocolate-y sweetness at first here, but the crux was the whisper of shoyu savor that really underscored the dish. Could this be the new salted caramel?


Chef/Owner Masanori "Maru" Nagano in the middle, flanked by Yoshiyuki "Yoshi" Inoue (who made the desserts) and Taketoshi "Take" Azumi (our capable itamae for the evening).

I'm very happy (and relieved) to report that Mori's going as strong as ever under Nagano's leadership. The meal tonight was near-flawless, and the new owner's doing a great job executing Mori-san's original vision here, turning out top notch traditionalist sushi and some stellar cooked dishes to boot. If that wasn't enough, Maru-san seems to have instilled a bit more fun into the demeanor of the chefs here, whom I found lighthearted, easy to deal with, and not afraid to crack a joke. For all you sushi fiends out there, this place still needs to be on your bucket list.

Plate by Plate 2013 Ticket Giveaway

July 22, 2013, 2:57 am

≫ Next: Lukshon (Culver City, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Mori Sushi (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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On the evening of Saturday, August 3th, Project by Project (Facebook, Twitter) will be hosting its 11th annual tasting benefit: Plate by Plate. Project by Project is a national 501(c)3 non-profit centered around issues relating to the Asian-American community. Each year, the group chooses a particular theme to focus on (whether it be health, education, or the arts), and partners with a charitable organization in that space. This year's partner is East West Players, the country's premier Asian-American theater troupe.

As always, the upscale event will showcase the gastronomic talents of some of LA's top restaurants, as well as alcoholic and non-alcoholic libations from a variety of leading purveyors. VIP attendees will also be treated to a cocktail competition judged by Matt Biancaniello and Devon Espinosa and featuring contestants Deysi Alvarez (Paiche, Mo-Chica, Picca, Fraiche, Rivera), Dino Balocchi (Littlefork, Longman & Eagle in Chicago), and Brittini Rae Peterson (Goldie's, Ink, The Tar Pit, Fig & Olive, Soho House).

The benefit will be held at the beautiful Vibiana cathedral in Downtown, future home of Neal Fraser and Bill Chait's long-awaited Redbird. Be sure to check out my report from last year's event.

.EATS(31). Allumette Alma Bashan Bestia Charlie Palmer Chaya Downtown Chef Jet Tila Church & State Circa Guelaguetza Hamasaku Lazy Ox Canteen Lexington Social House Little Bear Lukshon Mills + Co 9021pho The Oinkster Paiche The Park's Finest Patina Petty Cash Phorage The Raymond Rivera Saddle Peak Lodge Scratch|Bar Seoul Sausage Co Starry Kitchen Stella Barra Taberna Arros y Vi

.VIP(3). Kali Dining Redbird 1886 Bar   .SWEETS(2). Fluff Ice Patina Pastry   .DRINKS(18). Asahi Bird Pick Tea & Leaf Boutique Sake The Bruery CNS Enterprise Corazon Maya Tequila Gekkeikan Sake Joto Sake Ketel One Kirin (Frozen Foam) Monster Energy PIL Sake Rebel Coast Winery San Vicente Cellars VeeV Ventura Limoncello Voss White Lion VSOA

Tickets are currently on sale at $150 for general admission. However, I'm giving away two VIP tickets (giving you access to the preview hour, cocktail competition, VIP lounge and bar), valued at $250 each. To win, just leave a comment with your name, email, and a brief blurb about what you're looking forward to most about the event (the food, the open bar, the women, the men?), and why. Please submit entries by noon PDT, July 24th. I'll select the best entry and announce the winner Thursday. Good luck!

Lukshon (Culver City, CA) [2]

July 23, 2013, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Badmaash (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Plate by Plate 2013 Ticket Giveaway

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Lukshon Restaurant
3239 Helms Ave, Culver City, CA 90034
310.202.6808
www.lukshon.com
Wed 07/10/2013, 08:15p-11:10p





Since opening at the start of 2011, Sang Yoon's Lukshon has stood as sort of the bastion of modern southeast Asian cooking in LA. I really enjoyed my first meal here, and figured that it was time for a revisit, now that opening chefs Jacob Kear and Johnny Yoo have been replaced by Executive Chef Ted Hopson.

Hopson, for his part, is a graduate of the University of California at Riverside ('03), and attended culinary school at CSCA/Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena. From there, he landed a position at Downtown's longstanding Water Grill, working under David Lefevre. He eventually reached the rank of Executive Sous Chef, but would follow Lefevre out the door in August of 2010. A few months later, Hopson became Exec Chef at Father's Office, then took over at Lukshon as well in June 2011. He is joined in the kitchen by Chef de Cuisine Nathan Macaulay (The Tasting Kitchen), while Laurie Pesce (Wilshire, Cafe del Rey, Wolfgang Puck) remains on as General Manager.

An interesting note: both Hopson and Yoon will be competing in the new season of Top Chef Masters, premiering on July 24th. They'll be joined by LA's very own Neal Fraser, as well Los Angeles magazine's Lesley Suter (who's serving as one of the judges). Oh yeah, and the whole series was filmed in LA too. You can bet I'll be watching.


Lukshon's menu has been tweaked to put more of an emphasis on shareable small plates, though the overall aesthetic remains. On the boozy side of things, Wine Director Marisa Brown has replaced Eduardo Porto Carreiro, though his reasonably-priced, Riesling-centric wine list remains. Cocktails, of course, are worth trying as well, and I can't complain about the beers, either (after all, this is where I discovered the fabulous Hitachino XH). Click for larger versions.


This evening, Lukshon's standard bill of fare was joined by a special dineLA deal, as well as a "Summer of Riesling" tasting menu, featuring Rieslings that would typically not be poured by the glass. In line with the event, we were treated to the riesling sekt gebrüder simon 2011 mosel, germany, as well as the riesling spätlese von hövel "scharzhofberger" 2007 saar, germany.


lukshon sour [$11.00] | old overholt rye, kalamansi, tamarind, lemon
yokohama romance [$11.00] | prunier vsop cognac, cherry heering, kaffir lime, lemongrass, shaoxing wine
hot & sour gimlet [$12.00] | monopolowa vodka, dragon chile, lime, thai basil, kinh gioi
We made sure to work our way down the cocktail list, beginning with this threesome. The Lukshon Sour was a viscous, creamy concoction featuring an appealing mix of sweet and sour that came together in a flavor profile reminiscent of banana. The Yokohama Romance, meanwhile, showed off a complex, boozy weight from the Prunier against a backdrop of dark fruit tartness, while the Hot & Sour Gimlet was all about a fantastic blast of aromatic, herb-y nuances up front leading to a sour-ish close tinged with heat.


hawaiian butterfish [$10.00] | pickled watermelon radish, daikon, nahm jim, rau ram
The meal got off to a strong start with a plate of butterfish. It was an eminently balanced course, with the clean flavors of the fish forming a perfect base on which the bright, multifaceted notes from the nam jim and rau ram could really sing. Lovely textures too between the supple slices of sashimi and the crunchy veggies.


pig ear terrine [$9.00] | edamame, pickles, ma-la vinaigrette
Our next course reminded me a bit of the classic Sichuan specialty fuqi feipian. The terrine arrived cool and gelatinous, with a pork-y relish to it that worked flawlessly with the slight undercurrent of heat in the dish, all while the pickles added a fantastic lightness and crunch to things. Even better? The crisp, salty slivers of fried pig ear tossed in.


tea leaf salad [$11.00] | cabbage, crispy chana dal, marcona almonds, peanuts, sesame, blue prawn
The tea leaf salad was pretty fantastic, the crunchy shards of cabbage forming a base on which to appreciate the counterbalancing blasts of sourness and acid, interjected by a gorgeous nutty crunch and a hit of umami-rich goodness from bits of xia mi. The prawn arrived perfectly cooked as well--buttery, briny, and delicious.


steamed cod [$15.00] | spicy citrus broth, lily flower, tatsoi
Hopson then sent out the cod. I rather liked this one as well, its stark white, soft, springy, moist flesh and mild taste serving as a counterpoint to the spicy, herbaceous, and wonderfully aromatic broth that managed to succinctly capture the essence of the traditional dish.


singapore sling [$13.00] | plymouth gin, cherry heering, benedictine, combier orange, pineapple, bitters
fujian cure [$11.00] | isle of skye 8yr scotch, lemon, galangal, lapsang souchong black tea
More cocktails. The Singapore Sling was a great rendition of the recipe, with a strong pineapple-y character backed by tasty notes of sweetness and herby spice--very drinkable. Meanwhile, the Fujian Cure was even better, with a fantastic, lingering smokiness that just permeates a backbone of saccharine tartness.


cantonese chicken soup [$7.00] | cellophane noodles, petite bok choy, 63° egg
The chicken soup was superb, really capturing the quintessence of Cantonese flavors. The bird itself was spot on, and I loved the crisp, crunchy bok choy here and how the egg just added a marvelous, enveloping richness to things. Lovely tanginess too from the dates(?).


green papaya salad [$9.00] | cherry tomatoes, long beans, peanuts, crispy shallot, nam pla, lime
The som tam was another winner, a texturally wonderful dish that married sweet and sour flavors beautifully, all underscored by the pungency of that fish sauce. Fantastic savoriness from those shallots and peanuts, too.


bhutanese red rice [$9.00] | lamb bacon, maitake mushroom, egg, scallion, chinese celery
The red rice conveyed an intense, heady savoriness on the nose, though on the palate it was much more muted, with a buttery, somewhat nutty character laced with salty bits of bacon, all while the scallion and celery imparted just enough levity to the mix.


maryland soft shell crab [$13.00] | coconut "creamed corn", shishito peppers, pickled okra, spring onion, peanuts
Soft shell crab was surprisingly nice, one of the strongest preparations I've had to date in fact. The crab itself was wondrously crunchy, with a great brine to it along with an unobtrusive shell. The coconut and corn combo formed a sugary component in the dish that worked well with the inherent sweetness in the crustacean, and I loved the fragrant whispers of what I believe was basil in the dish.


formosa [$11.00] | ethereal gin, lillet blanc, atomized mizhiu tou, ginger pearl onions
five-spice mai tai [$13.00] | rhum j.m. agricole blanc, zafra 21yr rum, plantation '00 rum, five-spice orgeat, lime
Our final round of cocktails began with the Formosa, which displayed very apparent notes of gin over a complex, subtle base of bittersweetness--a stiff one. The Five-Spice Mai Tai, meanwhile, was pretty much the polar opposite, with a fruity blast of tropical, spicy sweetness over a boozy rum backbone.


manila clams [$15.00] | glass noodles, pork belly, cloud ear, hijiki, thai basil
We had here what sort of amounted to a clam pho, and indeed, it was pho-ntastic, with the bright, aromatic flavors really melding well with the inherent goodness of those clams. I also appreciated the slippery, crunchy texture on the wood ear here, and the salty hits from the pork belly just took the dish over the top.


crab fried rice [$12.00] | blue crab, jasmine rice, egg, pea tendrils, serrano chile
The prosaic-sounding crab fried rice was actually maaahvelous, one of the best I've had actually. What struck me here was how forcefully the ocean-y nuances of the crustacean were conveyed, as well as how well-integrated the egg was. At the same time, the pea and serrano were key in providing a modicum of lightness to the course, making for a balanced, cohesive rice dish overall.


green on green [$12.00] | romano beans, english peas, fava beans, haricot verts, spring onion
This whimsically-named dish brought together a quintet of disparate veggies, each one distinct in terms of both taste and texture, but all coming together nicely, integrated by an overarching savoriness and spice.


shishito peppers [$9.00] | maitake mushrooms, house made xo sauce
Shishitos were classic in essence, with light pin pricks of heat augmented by an in-your-face blast of umami goodness from the combo of mushrooms and XO.


beef and broccoli [$28.00] | prime hanger steak, grilled gai lan, black bean ghee, puffed tendon
The kitchen then sent out the night's pièce de résistance, the priciest, biggest, and perhaps most amusingly-named item on the menu. The hanger itself was spot on: just teeming with beefy goodness and surprisingly tender to boot. I thoroughly enjoyed it alone, but the pungency of the black bean made sense too, though you had to be careful with it, lest the ghee overwhelm the natural beauty of the meat. Even more key was the use of kai lan, which imparted a well-placed crunch and bitterness to things.


With the cocktails dispensed with, we opted for beer next, specifically the flander's ale. bockor bellegems bruin. belgium [$9]. It was a pretty prototypical example of oud bruin, so think funky and tart, with an almost wine-like quality to it. Quite nice.


chiang mai curry noodles [$7.00] | chile, turmeric, lemongrass, chicken, yu choy, rice noodles
Here, we were presented with classic khao soi-esque flavors, resulting in a comfy, familiar curry experience, with the chicken and the veggies in perfect harmony. Lovely textures on this one, too.


grilled squid salad | chile sambal vinaigrette, cucumbers, chinese celery, mint
The squid salad was something off of the special Riesling menu, and showed off some really bright, bitter, minty flavors, all underscored by the zing of that sambal. As such, the squid, surprisingly, wasn't really the star of the show, becoming more of a textural component to pair with the various greenery.


chinese black mushrooms [$10.00] | maitake, woodear, shitake, mustard greens, lap cheong
The medley of 'shrooms was a veritable umami bomb, blending together the earthy, heady savor of the various fungi and commingling it with the sausage-y savor of lap cheong, all while the mustard tried in vain to rein things in.


dandan noodles [$7.00] | kurobuta pork, sesame, preserved mustard greens, sichuan peppercorns, peanuts
Dandanmian was just as good as I remembered (albeit slightly more subdued), a blast of spicy, mouth-numbing flavors that go along oh-so well with the mustards greens and peanuts.


Up until this point, Lukshon had never had a dessert menu, operating on the principle that, in Asian restaurants, dessert is often included for free. However, opening Pastry Chef John Park (XIV under Jordan Kahn, Providence, Water Grill) left recently to open Quenelle ice cream shop in Burbank. He's been replaced by Jessica Perez, and the restaurant has used this changing of the guard as an opportunity to install its first dessert menu. Click for larger versions.


With the oud bruin all drunk up, we went for something even more sour, the gueuze. girardin 1882. belgium [$18]. It was a classic interpretation of the style, a torrent of lactic, tart, acidic flavors that finished utterly crisp and dry.


chicory chocolate cake [$7.00] | sesame brittle, thai chili caramel, chocolate pudding, sesame ice cream
Dessert started strong with this sort of awesome chicory cake. The cake itself displayed a restrained sweetness with a bitter tinge, and went beautifully with the savory, spicy, nutty notes in the caramel and ice cream. I was particularly a fan of the sesame brittle, which I would've easily demolished on its own.


p.y.p. [$7.00] | compressed peaches, frozen beijing yogurt, ginger streusel, passion fruit, pop rocks
I can only assume that this dessert was a nod to MJ's P.Y.T. It was pretty indeed though, with the sweet, juicy fruit pairing perfectly with the buttery, spicy combo of streusel and yogurt. Superbly well balanced, with a bit of whimsy from those pop rocks.


barley pudding [$7.00] | coffee streusel, caramelized banana, mandarin banana sorbet, puffed barley
The barley pudding was yet another winner. I loved the banana sweetness here, and how that played off the bitterness of the coffee so succinctly, all while the barley tempered the interaction while adding a delightful crunch to boot.


Mignardises comprised some mouth-watering palm sugar brownies and lychee pâtes de fruits. Even better were "Drumsticks" of coffee ice cream, chocolate glaze, and toasted coconut.

It's been too long. I really was quite happy with this dinner. The kitchen's interpretation of Southeast Asian cookery remains true to its essence--bold, lusty, not shy about flavor--but at the same time, there's an uncommon emphasis on precision, finesse, modernity here. Add to that a more focused, more manageable menu, and a fantastic selection of desserts, and it seems to me that, with Hopson now firmly at the helm, Lukshon's going stronger than ever.

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A couple weeks before this meal, I paid a visit to Lukshon to attend a special lunch put on by the Hong Kong Tourism Board featuring three well-regarded Hong Kong chefs. The event was aimed to promote "Hong Kong Live at The Grove," a three-day series of performances, exhibits, music, classes, and of course, food. Now, I normally don't do these types of things, but I made an exception this time around due to my curiosity about top-level Chinese cooking. It's an area that I don't know much about, but would love to experience more from.


Here we see Lukshon's gleaming, open kitchen shortly before the start of the luncheon. An interesting note: despite all the high-end, high-tech cooking tools available here, I was told that the Chinese chefs tended to prefer to do things old school, eschewing the deep fryer for the wok, as an example.


Sang Yoon introducing the three visiting chefs.


Our five course menu with wine pairing, signed, natch. Click for a larger version.


1: Sichuan Lamb Tartare | pickled Fresno chilies, prickly ash, cumin and puffed black rice [Sang Yoon, Lukshon]
NV Delamotte Brut Le Mesnil
Serving as a sort of amuse bouche, the tartar was pretty stupendous, with the supple, snappy dices of lamb melding beautifully with the multifaceted notes of spice in the dish. Really well integrated and balanced, with a fantastic textural component from the puffed rice. A promising start to the meal.


2: Dim Sum Platter | shrimp dumpling, abalone tart, baked bun with BBQ pork, spring roll [Kwai-pui Mak, Tim Ho Wan]
2008 Knebel qba Riesling Trocken
Up next was former Lung King Heen chef Mak Kwai-Pui (a.k.a. Pui-Gor) of the famed dim sum eatery Tim Ho Wan, widely known as the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world. Going from right to left, I started with the baoyu ta, which showed off the sweetness of the abalone against the backdrop of sugary, crumbly pastry. Next was the har gow, a commendable presentation of the dim sum classic, with the essence of the shrimp proudly conveyed amidst its delicate wrapper. The chunjuan was also on point, with a wonderfully thin, crispy exterior hiding a delicious filling combining the earthiness of mushroom with the sweetness of what I believe was crab. I ended with the restaurant's famed cha siu bao, and it did not let me down. What struck me about it was the texture, how it was so crumbly, so light, as well as the perfectly balanced filling, which blended the savoriness of pork with a great saccharine note.


3: Sole Filet | with asparagus in black bean sauce [Mango Tsang, Ming Court]
2011 Sella "Majoli" Rosato
Following, we were presented a course from Executive Chef "Mango" Tsang Chiu-Lit of the two-star Ming Court at the Langham Place hotel. Even though Tsang scrapped his initial plans to steam the sole (instead of frying it), I quite enjoyed the results, finding the fish delightfully crisp on the outside, yet delicate on the inside, with a mild relish that paired beautifully with the black bean. Lovely counterpoint from the vegetables, too. Yes, I can-a have-a de Mango.


4: Hong Kong Style Braised Beef | with Chef Cheng's signature fried rice [Kam-fu Cheng, Celebrity Cuisine]
2009 Francois Cazin Cour-Cheverney Romorantin
Hailing from the two-star Celebrity Cuisine was Cheng Kam-Fu, who's known for his classic Cantonese stylings. Braised beef was just as you'd expect: almost falling-apart tender, with a good depth and richness to it, along with a subtle undercurrent of spice. The fried rice served as a fitting accompaniment, not too greasy, not too soft, with a classic flavor profile thanks to the egg, shrimp, and ham (Jinhua I believe) folded in.


5: Barley Cream | coffee streusel, aprium, cherry, banana sorbet [Sang Yoon]
NV Philippe Bornard "Tant-Mieux"
Dessert, finally, didn't disappoint either. It was a smart, modern presentation, the barley cream forming a base on which the interplay between the coffee and fruit flavors could really sing, with the banana notes creeping in and out. Very cool.



A toast, thanks, and gift giving from HKTB's Executive Director Anthony Lau.


One of the nicest, and most useful swag bags I've encountered. I know I've been saying it for years, but I really do need to get my ass over to Hong Kong sometime.

Badmaash (Los Angeles, CA)

July 22, 2013, 9:30 pm

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Badmaash Restaurant
108 W 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.221.7466
www.badmaashla.com
Mon 07/22/2013, 09:30p-11:20p





I'm beginning to get sick of the whole gastropub thing by this point, but one that's caught my attention in recent times in Badmaash ("naughty" or "badass" in Hindi, roughly) in Downtown. Set inside the former site of The Charcoal Grill, the DEX Studio-designed restaurant opened on May 13th and is helmed by Executive Chef Pawan Mahendro, along with his two sons Nakul and Arjun. The goal here is to present a sort of Indian gastropub, churning out Indian-inflected cuisine as seen through a casual, cliché-busting, "kids of immigrants" type of lens.

About the Chef: Born to a food-centric family in the Punjabi city of Amritsar, Mahendro was trained in classic cuisine at Mumbai's Institute of Hotel Management, Catering Technology and Applied Nutrition. After graduating in 1977, he secured a job at the Taj Mahal Intercontinental, then moved to the Centaur Hotel. In 1978, he formed a business running a corporate cafeteria in Mumbai, then came to Canada in 1982 to train at the Holiday Inn. Mahendro decided to stay, and went on to work at several restaurants in Toronto, including the well-regarded Daily Planet. In 1995, he opened a French restaurant in New York's Rockland County, then traveled the world as a restaurant consultant before returning to Toronto. He served as Corporate Executive Chef at events company ByPeterandPauls.com before starting Jaipur Grille in October of 2002, which was widely lauded for its refreshing take on traditional Indian cuisine. Following the Chef's retirement, the family moved to Southern California in 2010, and by July 2011, had severed ties with the restaurant. Nakul and Arjun convinced their father to come out of hibernation, however, to help them realize their vision for a neo-Indian eatery, and Badmaash is the result of that collaboration.


Badmaash's menu may be the first I've seen with hash tags, a nod to the influence that social media has on food these days. It features a good number of Indian classics, but also some more fusion-y, gastropub-y dishes as well. We also sampled items off of the special dineLA menu that was being offered this evening. To drink, think a smattering of surprisingly-interesting beers (almost always a good decision when it comes to Indian), as well as a handful of wines as well. Click for larger versions.


Speaking of wine, we opted for the Malbec The Show 2012, Mendoza, Argentina [$30]. I'm not sure if I've ever had Malbec with Indian before, and I'm not really yearning to have it again. The wine was fairly typical for the varietal, spicy and jammy, with a certain earthiness to it. There wasn't anything wrong, I'm just not sure it paired all that well with the food. Maybe a Kingfisher would've been a better idea after all.


2-Bite Fish Fray (machhi amritsari) [$8.00] | daily select fish golden brown in chickpea batter with carom seed, dried mango dust
We began with the restaurant's take on macchi amritsari, basically fried fish fritters. They were well-spiced, with a nice crunch on the crust, though the fish itself tended toward the dry side. I did appreciate the levity imparted by the herbs here, though.


Homemade Punjabi Samosas [$8.00] | short rib with pineapple and cilantro
Samosas were quite good, and were the first ones I've had to feature beef. The meat was hearty and satisfying, and went surprisingly well with the slight sweetness imparted by the pineapple. Lovely texture on the pastry here, too.


Chicken Wings a la Badmaash | #fuckingawesome; chickpea dusted and flash fried to a crisp, with homemade 5-pepper and tamarind glaze
The wings weren't necessarily as awesome as their hashtag would imply, but they were tasty nonetheless: nicely crisp, with an appealing combination of sweet and spicy flavors. I wouldn't mind a bucket of these.


Tomato & Watermelon Gazpacho | garnished with masala shrimp - plum tomato, fresh watermelon, red and green sweet peppers, red onion, serrano chili, cilantro
Serving as a sort of intermezzo in the dineLA menu, the gazpacho arrived tasting much like a salsa, a blend of cool, subtly spicy flavors underscored by a trace of watermelon-y sweetness. The shrimp actually worked out quite well here, adding a bit of textural interest to the pseudo-course.


Chicken Tikka Poutine [$12.00] | crisp masala fries topped with chicken tikka and cheese curds, doused in brown gravy
The poutine was unquestionably the star of the show this evening, and quite possibly the best poutine I've had (the owners' Canadianess showing through I suppose). The combo of the masala fries with the gravy and curds was spot on, and if that wasn't enough, the chicken was beautifully cooked--coming out tender, flavorful, juicy, and with a slight char bitterness--the perfect topping to the dish. An absolute must try.


Chili Cheese Naan [$6.00] | tandoori naan stuffed with hot chilies and aged american cheddar - with yogurt raita
Cooked in the traditional tandoor, the chili cheese naan functioned as your basic preparation of the bread, but with a subtle incorporation of the headlining ingredients that made it much more interesting. Very nice when taken with the raita.


Spiced Lamb Burger [$13.00] | ground and spiced in house - with spiced mayo, onion, lettuce, tomato on brioche bun
Another item that should be on your short list here is certainly the lamburger. The meat arrived properly rare, with a great Indian-inspired spice to it that should make it palatable even to you lamb haters out there (and I know there are a lot of you). It went swimmingly with the cilantro, various veggies, spiced mayo, and even with the sweetness in the brioche, making for a deft marriage of disparate culinary traditions.


Ghost Chili Lamb Vindaloo [$14.00] | lamb and potato braised in a spicy curry of bhoot jolokia and other chilies
The classic vindaloo was done up here with the much bandied about Bhut Jolokia. The dish was spicy, but not ridiculously so, the heat arriving on the palate fast and focused, with a particular quality to it that worked wonders with the sweet, almost tart flavors in the dish--a smart accent to the lamb. I will point out that the potatoes here were undercooked, resulting in a sort of firm, crunchy texture, but I actually enjoyed it against the near falling-apart tenderness of the meat.


Cheese Dumplings in Sweet Cream (ras malai) | traditional indian dessert - fresh paneer cheese dumplings soaked in sweet cream and whole milk, with rose and salted pistachio
Time for the sugary stuff. Chef Pav's version of ras malai (my favorite Indian dessert) was on point: cool and creamy, with a floral, sweet spice that really hit the spot.


Alphonso Mango Mousse | light and airy; fresh mango mousse that has had the aunty-ji's singing Chef Pav's name for years
The Alphonso mousse was sweet and tart, showing off a focused blast of fruity mango goodness accented by those blueberries.


Peddler's Creamery Daily Selection [$5.00] | local DTLA icecreamery! made with organic, fair-trade, local exotic ingredients... BICYCLE CHURNED IN SMALL BATCHES!!!!
Tonight ice cream selection from local producer Peddler's Creamery was a fantastic cardamom-cocoa nib variety. The spicy, aromatic nuances of the cardamom were on proud display, a perfect accompaniment to the smooth, sweet ice cream, all while the nibs added a touch of crunch and bitterness to the fray.


We closed with a wonderful preparation of warm cutting chai, a beautiful blend of sweet, spicy flavors that might've been the best chai I've ever had. I appreciated the brightly-colored wire holder here, reminiscent of the ones used at roadside stands in India.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect coming in here, but overall I was pretty happy with the experience. Barring a couple quibbles, the food was on point, sort of blending traditional Indian flavors with a fun, casual, youthful swagger befitting Badmaash's environs. I applaud the Mahendros for doing something different with the genre, and am curious to sample more of the menu and see where this all goes.

Mari Vanna (Los Angeles, CA)

July 26, 2013, 8:30 pm

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Mari Vanna Restaurant
8475 Melrose Pl, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.655.1977
www.marivanna.ru/la
Fri 07/26/2013, 08:30p-11:55p





We all wept (or rejoiced, conversely) when the sixth iteration of Joe Pytka's Bastide closed its doors in May 2011. With that chapter of 8475 Melrose's story sealed, we were left wondering about who would take over this seemingly cursed spot. Well, we didn't have to wait long until it was announced that Russian hospitality group Ginza Project was opening up an outpost of their Mari Vanna chainlet here. Co-Owner Tatiana Brunetti originally wanted to launch the place in May 2012, but the restaurant blew way past its projected opening and debuted just this June.


The old Bastide space has been thoroughly revamped, but fortunately the patio remains.


A former dining room has been cleared to make way for a cute little bar/lounge area, which the old Bastide never had.


We also have a covered "sunroom," which is adjacent the old kitchen table, now converted to a wine room-cum-karaoke lounge(!).


And of course, we have the main dining room, replete with fireplace, meant to recall an archetypal, rustic Russian residence filled with trinkets, figurines, and other such Russian-y things.


Mari Vanna's menu features all your favorite old-school Russian classics, executed with precision. There's also a family-style tasting menu option called the Russian Table (call ahead for this), and be sure to check out the rotating list of chef's specials as well. Click for larger versions.


To drink, vodka, unsurprisingly, is the star of the show here. Mari Vanna features a reported 70 different bottles of the stuff, and also infuses its own vodkas in house. The resulting liquors are then used in the restaurant's vodka-centric cocktail list, and also served neat. Click for larger versions.


Bread is a key part of the Russian table, and here, a black variety was presented with sea salt, sunflower oil, chopped radishes, and green onion. The rye tended toward full-flavored, hearty, and I especially appreciated the intensity of the salt here, as well as the lightness and crunch of those radishes.


Olivier Salad [$12.00] | Mélange of Roasted Vegetables, Pickles, Hard Boiled Eggs and a Touch of Mayonnaise
Regular readers may know that I'm quite the fan of potato salad, the this high-class version was surely one of the best I've had. Think utterly balanced, with a great interplay between contrasting notes of egg, vegetable, and hammy savor, all augmented by a bit of spiciness toward the close.


Herring under a Fur Coat (Shuba) [$10.00] | Layers of herring, Potatoes, Carrots, Beets and Onions topped with Egg with a touch of mayonnaise
Here before us was a plate of dressed herring, or shuba (the Russian word for jacket). I don't think I've had anything quite like it, but the dish worked. The sheer fishiness of the herring was apparent, especially upon first taste, but its various accompaniments really moderated its potency, providing a blanket of cool, mild sweetness that really integrated the dish.


Chicken Kholodetz [$12.00] | Chicken Aspic served with Horseradish, pickles and spicy Russian mustard
The kholodets was probably the most challenging course of the evening. The chicken itself was quite tasty, with a really appealing spice to it, but the aspic-to-meat ratio seemed off. There was just too much jelly, which didn't have much flavor on its own, and sort of overwhelmed the bird. Fortunately, the fantastically spicy mustard here did help bring things together, adding a sharp, potent jab of heat to the dish.


Fish plate [$19.00] | House cured Salmon, Cold Smoked Paddlefish and House Smoked Sturgeon
Next, we moved on to some housemade platters, the first featuring three types of fish. Salmon was on point: slick, fatty, and very nice with a touch of lemon-y tang. The paddlefish, meanwhile, was soft, almost pillow-y, with a lovely, forceful saltiness to it. However, the most fascinating item here was clearly the sturgeon, which I found firm and even a bit crunchy, with a growing, lingering brine.


Homemade Assorted Meat plate [$19.00] | Roasted Pork Loin, Chicken Roulette and Beef Filet
"Charcuterie" was also made in house. The pork was fairly benign, a bit salty here and there, but not particularly interesting. My favorite was actually the chicken roulade--cool and supple, with a wonderful hit of pepperiness. Lastly, we had the beef, which was flaky, appropriately dry, and somewhat reminiscent of the Chinese cold cuts one sometimes finds on banquet menus.


Rosolnik Soup [$11.00] | Chicken Barley soup with Potatoes, Onions, Carrots, pickles, Garnished with fresh dill, sour cream on the side
The rassolnik soup was delicious: hearty and home-y, with a satisfying savoriness from the chicken-root veggie combo that was deftly offset by the slight tang of those pickles. Sour cream was optional, but added an additional point of the interest to the potage.


Sunny - Seaberry Martini [$12.00] | House infused Seaberry Vodka, St. Germain Elder Flower, Fresh Lime Juice, Fresh Orange Juice
Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini [$12.00] | House infused Strawberry Vodka, Strawberry Puree, Fragoli, Fresh Lime Juice
Grusha - Pear Martini [$12.00] | House infused Pear Vodka, St. Germain Elder Flower, Pear Puree, Fresh Lime Juice, Splash of Sparkling Wine
Our first troika of cocktails began with the Sunny - Seaberry Martini. The astringency of the sea-buckthorn was expertly countered here, resulting in a pleasant citrus-y disposition with a hint of booziness. The Klubnichka - Strawberry Martini, on the other hand, had no traces of alcohol at all, instead coming out thick and sweet, with a very pure, unbridled strawberry essence. The Grusha - Pear Martini, finally, was even more viscous, with the brightness of the pear really coming through in the drink--not particularly complex, but delicious nonetheless.


Roasted Cornish Hen [$12.00] | Topped with garlic and served with pickled cabbage
The tsyplionok tabaka was another highlight of the meal. It was basically a perfectly roasted, spatchcocked Cornish game hen (a small chicken), simply seasoned but superb, and arriving at the table tender and succulent, with a great depth of flavor. At the same time, the pickles worked here in providing a bit of balance against the heft of that bird.


Handmade Veal Pelmeni - Russian Dumplings [$16.00] | Topped with Herbs, Butter and served with Sour Cream
The pelmeni were actually sent out by mistake, but we didn't complain when they told us to just keep them at the table. I found the dumplings very straightforward, with an agreeable savoriness from the veal stuffing to go against the herb-y overtones in the dish. Pretty simple, humble, and even a bit Chinese-y in essence.


Blini With Red Caviar 50 grams [$29.00]
Seeing as how we were in a Russkiy restoran, we felt compelled to order at least one form of fish roe. The red caviar here was markedly different from the ikura one typically finds. Instead, it reminded me of the sujiko that I'd had at Shibucho, being much saltier, much more in-your-face. I actually quite liked it, especially when taken with a dab of smetana and a shard of crêpe-like blini.


Ukrainian Borscht with Pompushka [$12.00]
The borshch, of course, was something that we just had to try given where we were. I quite liked the soup despite the preponderance of beets, finding it hearty and comforting, with its savory broth pairing swimmingly with a mix of root vegetables and a whisper of pepper. Even better, though, was the potage's traditional accompaniment of pampushky, baked little spheres of garlicky goodness.


At this point, our server brought out complementary shots of Mari Vanna's much bandied about house-infused vodka, in the following flavors:

• Apricot - My favorite of the bunch, with a very true-to-life apricot sweetness paired with a slightly herbaceous tinge.
• Seaberry (Oblepiha) - Tart and astringent, with an interesting savoriness to it.
• Lingberry - Also known as lingonberry (the IKEA staple), this was super, super sour, puckeringly so in fact.
• Pineapple - The pineapple, meanwhile, had an almost candied sweetness to it backed by copious amount of booziness.
• Olives - This one was akin to alcoholic olive juice, basically an olive hater's worst nightmare.
• Pepper - Quite tasty, with bright, peppery nuances leading to a growing, creeping burn on the close.

Kalinka - Malinka Martini [$12.00] | House infused Raspberry Vodka, White Peach Puree, Fresh Lime Juice, Fresh Raspberries
Moscow Mojito [$14.00] | House infused Honey and Oats Vodka, Mint, Fresh Lime Juice, Aged Dark Rum, Splash of Sprite
Lolita Apricot - Martini [$12.00] | House infused Apricot Vodka, Vanilla Black Tea Syrup and Fresh Lemon Juice
Time for more cocktails (as if we needed more after the shots). The Kalinka - Malinka Martini came out utterly fruity (and thick), with a berry fruit laden intensity that was easy to like. Our only non-martini drink was the Moscow Mojito, which was pretty similar to the standard variation, but with a more pronounced booziness to it along with the requisite mint and citrus notes. Finally, we had the Lolita Apricot - Martini, my favorite of the threesome with its soft, balanced vanilla and coconut-y flavors.


Beef Stroganoff [$27.00] | Thinly Sliced Filet Mignon in a light sour cream sauce, fresh Thyme, Pickles and Potato Puree
Mari Vanna's befstroganov is the restaurant's unofficial signature dish, and it did not disappoint. The earthiness of the mushrooms here paired perfectly with the sour cream in setting the stage for the beef to shine, while the thyme served as a great accent piece. I appreciated the countering crunch of the pickles as well, and loved the mashed potatoes here, which was fantastically smooth and buttery (even Robuchon would be proud).


Chicken Kotletki [$19.00] | Pan Seared Chicken patties Served with potato puree
The kotletki were sort of like mini hamburger patties. Or, think of them as the best chicken nuggets you've had: utterly juicy, and pretty profound in the flavor department too. I thoroughly enjoyed 'em alone, but the creamy potatoes here definitely made sense as an accoutrement.


Assorted Pirozjki - Beef, Cabbage, or Rice, Egg and Scallion [$3.00/each]
We ended the savory portion of our meal with a basket of pirozhki, basically bite-size stuffed buns that are not to be confused for pierogi. They come in three varieties at Mari Vanna, all distinguished by their shape. The beef preparation was quite nice, the filling almost stroganoff-esque in nature, with a certain tanginess to it. Cabbage, meanwhile, was more austere, unsurprisingly, while my favorite was the egg and scallion variant. Tasty overall, but a little on the dry side.


Birds Milk [$12.00] | Traditional Russian Dessert, very light sponge cake covered in melted dark chocolate
Both desserts from the specials menu were sent out on the house, presumably because of some of the long waits we endured in between courses. Our first was a cake-ified version of ptichye moloko candy, which I really enjoyed. The cake itself I found light, pleasantly sweet, and nutty and nougat-y on the palate, a great foil to the rich, slightly smoky chocolate drizzled on top.


Medovik [$12.00] | Traditional Russian Honey Cake
The medovik was similarly delicious, a blast of viscous, honeyed sweetness that was beautifully tempered by the layers of cake. I seriously want to bring a whole one of these to my next birthday party.


Finally, we enjoyed complementary shots of pear-infused vodka, a fitting, fruity conclusion to the evening.

I'd never really experienced Russian cuisine prior to this dinner, so I don't really have a sound basis for judgment here, but I can say that I quite enjoyed the meal. The food was hearty, full-flavored, straightforward in essence but somehow still very interesting at the same time, with a trace of refinement on the edge of rusticity. I think there's probably a lot of misconceptions or simply lack of awareness concerning Russian cookery around these parts, so I think a meal here could definitely help change some of our perceptions; it certainly did for me.