Providence (Los Angeles, CA) [4]

February 7, 2013, 7:45 pm

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Providence Restaurant
5955 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.460.4170
www.providencela.com
Thu 02/07/2013, 07:45p-12:20a





Whenever people ask me for fine dining recommendations in LA, Providence has almost always been the first place that comes to mind. Since opening in 2005, the restaurant has firmly established itself as one of the premier dining destinations in the Southland, and its chef, Michael Cimarusti, has been universally hailed as among the City's finest. And I want to emphasize universally; people in this town seem to love to talk trash about chefs (Ludo, Mike Voltaggio, and David Myers seem to draw the most ire), but I've never once heard anyone speak negatively about him--that should tell you something. Though I've been to Providence seemingly numerous times for specialevents, my last "real" meal here was way back in 2009, and that's just not right. As such, a revisit was long overdue.


For this evening, we ended up with a whopping 15 diners, the largest party that I'd ever organized. Because of that, we booked the Sonoma Room, a private dining room that seats 16 (note a minimum charge of $3,000 for Thursday nights). For even larger parties, there's the option of the Cellar Room, which handles up to 22.


Arriving early at the restaurant, I was handed Providence's comprehensive drink list and soon found myself perusing the cocktails (I believe now the work of Laura Lindsay, following the departure of Zahra Bates). If that's not your thing, the beer and spirit selection here is also surprisingly well-curated. Click for larger versions.


like eskimos [$20.00] | pierre ferrand ambre cognac, spiced kuri squash, egg, cream, vanilla, black truffle
Unsurprisingly, I wound up with the Like Eskimos (hey, it had truffle in it!). It really was delicious though: creamy, eggy, redolent of earthy Périgord on the nose, and with a tinge of sweet spice that all paired beautifully with the drink's base of cognac. I loved the whole pomp and circumstance with the presentation of the truffles, too.


And here we see Providence's flagship Chef's Menu, a 16-course extravaganza at $175 per head, plus $115 for optional wine pairings from Sommelier Drew Langley. Click for a larger version.


1: greyhound
We began with the restaurant's signature amuse bouche, a spherified (or reverse spherified, most likely) Greyhound cocktail containing vodka and grapefruit juice. It showed off a bright acidity initially, leading to a mix of fruity and alcoholic notes on the midpalate. A fun burst of flavors.


2: scallop nasturtium
crémant d'alsace, hubert meyer m.v.
Another, newer mainstay on the menu is the whimsical Scallop Nasturtium, basically diced kombu-cured scallop and sushi rice in a nasturtium wrapper. It was a marvelous, perfect little bite, with the sweet, creamy scallop melding beautifully with the rice, then taken up another notch by the crunchy, savory bits of rice cracker sprinkled within. The nasturtium, meanwhile, contributed a delightful tanginess on the finish that balanced out the dish in stellar fashion.


3: squid and chorizo / abalone and miso
crémant d'alsace, hubert meyer m.v.
Up next were binchotan-grilled skewers that I'd last encountered at the OAD dinner in 2011. I first tried the Monterey abalone, done up with dashi and miso. It was superb, with a fantastic sweet-savory interplay from the miso and a delightful char character; lovely texture, too. The Japanese sword squid and chorizo skewer was arguably even better, with a mouth-watering kick of spiciness from the sausage that paired wonderfully with the subtle, tender squid.


4: uni canapé
crémant d'alsace, hubert meyer m.v.
The parade of hits continued with these bites of Santa Barbara uni, black truffle butter, and lardo de Bellota, all served on rectangles of focaccia. Unsurprisingly, they were delicious, with the creamy sweetness of the urchin playing perfectly off of the in-your-face smack of the lardo-focaccia combo. Some great transitions of flavors here, and one of my dining companions even likened the taste to eating "fried uni."


5: grilled kumamoto oyster | american caviar, smoked butter
crémant d'alsace, hubert meyer m.v.
Kumamotos arrived in a bed of seaweed, topped with a Champagne beurre blanc and Alverta caviar. The dish showed off classic oyster flair, with a mélange of creamy, rich, briny flavors set off by sharp pricks of salt from the sturgeon roe.


6: goma saba | cucumber, spring onion, nantes carrot, coriander seed, young ginger
moschofilero, tselepos 2011
Mackerel was marvelous, displaying a clean, focused, yet subdued salinity that perfectly matched the tart, crunchy pickles, all while the finish lingered on and on with the relish of the ocean. A flawless marriage of flavors and textures--I do not hesitate in calling this the best saba that I've ever had.


7: soy milk panna cotta | uni, geoduck, ikura, flowers and herbs
junmai dai ginjyo, kanchiku
Our next course was a redux of a dish Chef Cimarusti presented at 2011's Ibaraki benefit dinner at Breadbar. It was a beautifully composed plate, with the three types of seafood taking center stage and conveying some pure, unmitigated flavors that really tasted of the sea. I especially appreciated the firm, crunchy texture of the geoduck. To that, the soymilk panna cotta offered up a lush, creamy counterpoint, moderating the dish in effect, while the crunchy little bits present really added some well-placed savory accents to the fray.


Here, Providence GM/Co-Owner Donato Poto and a particularly hirsute Cimarusti (his "winter coat") made their first appearance to present and cook some beautiful just-in-season spot prawns.


8: spot prawn | hot rock, yuzu
sauvignon blanc, craggy range 2011
Cimarusti and company are known for their adept handling of spot prawns (particularly the salt-baked variety), and the version we had tonight did not let them down. Cooked briefly on hot stones, they were finished simply with a dash of yuzu, resulting in just about the purest, freshest, most profound expression of the ingredient possible, with a fantastically snappy texture to boot. The prawn roe, too, was tasty, with a lovely piquancy to it, and I really appreciated the head as well, with its smokier, weightier facets.


9: there's one born every minute | cabacerra ham, octopus, manila clam
chardonnay, "golden slope" liquid farm 2011
Despite the abstruse moniker, the risotto of octopus and clam managed to be a table favorite, and for good reason. The rice was spot on in consistency, and served as a flawless base to the tender, sweet bits of seafood strewn within. If that wasn't enough, the slices of ruby Ibérico neck ham added further layers of spice, savor, and complexity, while the entire amalgam was enveloped by a certain lightness courtesy of celery. A bigger bowl, please!


10: live scallops | lemon and salted butter
macon chardonnay, clos de la crochette, les héritiers du comte lafon 2008
Live New Bedford scallops were presented with their adductor muscles still attached to the shells, and served simply with French fleur de sel butter (Rodolphe Le Meunier's Beurre de Baratte), salt, and lemon. I was afraid that the butter would overwhelm the bivalve, but that simply wasn't the case. Rather, it provided a richness and depth to the dish that melded gorgeously with the inherent sweetness of the scallop, all while a slight touch of char added further interest to the course.


At this point, a magnificent filet of Brittany turbot, replete with truffles, was brought out to the table for us to take a gander at.


11: turbot | peas, black truffle, fumet
trousseau, le clousot, michel gahier 2011
After being plated, the turbot was brought back outside, accompanied by a pea salad and Périgord fumet. The fish was beautifully done, with a soft, delicate flavor that was keenly augmented by the Morbier-esque line of black truffle within. It was a smart combination of two disparate elements, and I absolutely adored the pea here too, which showed off some bright, verdant flavors that really set the dish off.


12: japanese wagyu beef | crushed butterball potatoes, baby carrots, spring onion, charred onion vinaigrette
cabernet sauvignon, heitz cellars 2007
Despite being a seafood-centric chef, Cimarusti has always had a knack for cooking up some of the best steak I've ever tasted, and tonight was no exception. What we had, thus, was real deal Japanese wagyu, grade A5, from Kagoshima Prefecture. It was pretty much flawless: melt-in-your-mouth tender, loaded with all the beefy, fatty flavor that you'd expect, and with a fantastic twang of char bitterness. One of my dining companions declared this the best steak he'd ever eaten, and I believe him. As good as the meat was, the accompaniments made sense, too. The Yorkshire pudding was runny and rich, comforting really, as were the potatoes, while the carrots made for a fitting touch of levity to the dish.


13: cheese selection
madeira verdelho, "historic series" rare wine co. m.v.
Providence's cheese cart is one of the best in the City, and we were able to enjoy four selections from it. Going counterclockwise from bottom-right, we had Casatica di Bufala (a creamy, soft, Italian water buffalo cheese with a mushroom-y character), Nuvola di Pecora (Italian sheep's milk with an earthy flair), green label Comté (raw cow's milk--sweet and caramel-y), and Dallenwiler Geisskase (a nutty Swiss goat cheese). Joining the fromage was housemade bread, quince and rhubarb jams, candied walnuts, and dried figs.


14: tangerine | kalamansi, avocado yogurt, white chocolate feuilletine
Moving now into the sweet stuff, we began with a sort of pre-dessert. A flawlessly smooth quenelle of tangerine sorbet was a jolt to the palate, putting forth some really bright, citrus-y flavors, moderated in part by the lushness of avocado, all while the feuilletine added texture and a nice savory tinge to the dish. Great as a palate cleanser.


15: crème fraîche, sablé breton | almond financier, chestnut jam, vanilla mousse
moscatel málaga, "victoria #2" jorge ordoñez & co 2008
Here we had the kitchen's riff on the classic Mont Blanc (whipped cream-topped chestnut purée), but done up in a visually-striking all-white visage. The dessert conveyed a marked sugariness up front that reminded one of my dining partners of "cupcake frosting." Balancing that out was the chestnut jam and slightly savory financier, all while the crème fraîche provided an undercurrent of tanginess.


16: caramélia mousse | manjari cream, milk ice cream, cocoa nib dentelle
amoroso sherry, el maestro sierra
Last up was a dual-layered mousse containing both Valrhona Manjari dark chocolate and Caramélia milk chocolate. It was actually overly sweet for me, and I would've liked some herbaceous or fruity notes to balance things out a bit. That being said, the milk ice cream did deliver a temper to the dessert, and I quite appreciated the textural aspect of the dark chocolate streusel and cocoa nib tuile.


17: petit fours
To close: peppermint macarons, caramels, and raspberry-tarragon pâtes de fruits.

A return to Providence was long overdue, but I'm really glad I made another trek out here. The food was even better than I remember, and it was fantastic to see how Cimarusti's cooking has progressed over the years. If anything, it's become even more precise, even more focused, with a cleaner, more ingredient-centric aesthetic and an acute nod to modernity. In a way, the plates are simpler, yet more profound, with boatloads of finesse and a palpable purity to them. If that wasn't enough, the beverage pairings by Drew Langley were top notch, and the service was to be commended as well. A lot of people call Providence the best restaurant in LA, and they might just be right--it's a must visit for Angelenos and foodie-focused out-of-towners alike.

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chi SPACCA (Los Angeles, CA)

February 11, 2013, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Allumette (Los Angeles, CA)

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chi SPACCA Restaurant
6610 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.297.1133
www.chispacca.com
Mon 02/11/2013, 09:00p-11:35p



The Mozza empire continues to expand. Yes, the holy trinity--Batali, Bastianich, Silverton--have just opened the butchery-focused chi SPACCA ("cleaver" in Italian) in the space once occupied by their Scuola di Pizza. The long-awaited restaurant debuted on February 4th, and features Chef Chad Colby's well-regarded housemade salumi and other meat-centric plates.

For those unfamiliar with what's been going on, it all started with a private dining room, one situated inside Mozza2Go and featuring an exhibition kitchen and plenty of seating. Nancy Silverton and Matt Molina started out teaching cooking classes there (hence the name Scuola di Pizza), but in late 2010, Silverton tapped Manhattan Beach native Chad Colby to hold weekly family-style, prix fixe dinners in the space. These became quite the sensation, and during this period, Colby had also been experimenting with preserving his own meat. He even built a special walk-in dry-curing room in the back, and established LA's first fully legit, fully legal salumi program.

As such, Colby began serving his resulting product at the Scuola dinners, and then, in May 2012, started a special Salumi Bar night on Thursday evenings. He even won 2011's Cochon 555 tasting along the way. At the beginning of 2013, the Salumi Bar expanded its days of operation, all seemingly in preparation for the launch of chi SPACCA. Apparently, due to alcohol licensing restrictions, the restaurant will only offer two seatings of 30 diners a night, starting at 6:00 and 8:00, Monday through Friday, though there'll be room for walk-ins at the bar. Saturday nights, meanwhile, will be reserved for "nose-to-tail" dinners. As for the pizza and pasta classes formerly held at the Scuola di Pizza, they'll be moved to daylight hours during the weekends.


The Scuola di Pizza hasn't changed much from its days hosting the family dinners, with the open kitchen clearly taking center stage.


The chi SPACCA menu, unsurprisingly, focuses on meat of multiple forms, though there are a few requisite salads as well. Desserts are handled by Mozza Pastry Chef Dahlia Narvaez, and to drink, you'll find a small, reasonably-priced chalkboard wine list featuring selections by the quartino. Click for a larger version.


affettati misti [$24.00]
You'd be remiss if you didn't start with a big platter of Colby's salumi, and perhaps the best way to experience it is to order the assortment of cold cuts. Going from top to bottom, we had:

• Whole Muscles: Colby specializes in whole muscle curing, and his expertise was evident here. The 24 month prosciutto was a superb example of the style, slick and soft, showing off a slightly sweet, nutty character balanced by fatty, savory notes in the ham. The capocollo (made from pork neck) was even more intense, with a deeper, meatier relish and a more substantial body.
• Salami: Moving on now, joe's tocai was a version of salami ostensibly cured with Tocai wine, which seemed to impart a slight floral character to the sausage. The garden chili variety, as the name would imply, showed off a delightfully kick of heat that I quite enjoyed.
• Pate & Terrine: The first forcemeat was Colby's bacon tenderloin, a spot-on terrine that beautifully highlighted the meat while contrasting it with the nuttiness and crunch of the included pistachios. Finally, we had the butcher's pâté, a finer, more aromatic preparation with a heady, liver-y flair to it. Yum.

pickles [$5.00]
A plate of pickles was useful in cutting some of the weight of the meat. I especially enjoyed the crisp carrot and cabbage varieties.


lardo mantecato [$8.00]
The accompanying bread was superb, displaying a certain sweetness that recalled the essence of Chinese youtiao. It was delicious alone, but the whipped lardo added even further luxuriousness to the dish.


warm squash blossoms ripiene [$12.00] | ricotta & tomato vinaigrette
Squash blossoms arrived brimming with ricotta, its lush, creamy, subtly sweet taste working well with the tart tomato. However, I really wanted more textural variation in the dish, as everything seemed to have a sort of uniform mouthfeel.


mizuna, baby kale & rucola [$14.00] | apples, red walnuts & piave
The kitchen then sent out a complementary salad course. The bitterness of the mizuna-kale-arugula combo was nicely played here, with a bright, bracing astringency that made sense against the contrasting flavors of the apple and walnut, all while the cheese added a weighty, salty overtone to the dish. Vegetarians may do alright here after all.


baby cauliflower [$12.00] | crushed lemon bagna cauda
I'm quite the cauliflower fiend, so this was a must-try for me. The bagna cauda sauce really added a fantastic depth and complexity to the vegetable, with the lemon providing a sort of overarching tartness that worked too. My only concern was that I would've liked the cauliflower to have a crisper, crunchier consistency.


funghi ripiene [$20.00]
I ordered this dish thinking that it would be one of our lighter mains, but I should've known better! Instead, the mushrooms arrived stuffed with pork sausage and veal that was rolled in caul fat. It sure was tasty though, showing off some really deep, dark, satisfying flavors that were only partially moderated by the greenery on the plate.


santa barbara spot prawns [$26.00]
Santa Barbara spot prawns arrived simply prepared, with a drizzle of lemon and olive oil working well with the sweet, saline relish of the crustaceans. Unfortunately, the prawns were on the smaller side, so they weren't quite as satisfying as I would've liked, especially when compared to a version that I'd just had at Providence.


red wattle pork "segreto" [$24.00]
Is the "segreto" here the same as the "secreto" cut of pork I'd enjoyed at Playground and é by José Andrés? Obviously this wasn't Ibérico, but the meat was delicious nonetheless: lean, yet immensely flavorful, with a delectable char bitterness and an aromatic counterpoint prominently featuring what I believe was rosemary.


pollo alla diavola [$25.00]
The chicken, meanwhile, was the surprise hit of the night. An entire half-bird was presented to us, and I eagerly went for the drumstick portion. I found the meat tender, juicy, and very pleasing to the palate, with a marked pepper-y kick and a wonderful jolt of creeping, lingering heat.


costata alla fiorentina [$175.00] | 42 oz.
Finally, we come to the evening's cavallo di battaglia, a massive 42oz T-bone that managed to be the priciest steak I'd ever eaten (though not on a per-ounce basis--that would have to be at CUT). The bistecca alla fiorentina was done up in classic fashion, cooked via chi SPACCA's wood-burning grill and simply seasoned. It was a tasty cut of meat, with a straightforwardly satisfying beefiness to it, along with a lovely char savoriness from the outer crust. I enjoyed being able to compare and contrast the tenderloin and strip sections too, finding the former to be expectedly more tender in consistency, but the latter having a more assertive flavor.


dario's olive oil rosemary cake [$9.00]
Moving on to desserts now, chi SPACCA had a threesome on offer, and, despite being rather full of meat by this point, we went for the trifecta. The first sort of reminded me of a fruitcake, with the herb-y, subtly savory components in the dish melding well with the tasty bits of dried fruit sprinkled within.


vanilla pine nut biscotti [$9.00]
The biscotti, meanwhile, was probably our favorite of the three. In fact, it was probably the best version of the biscuits that I'd ever had, crumbly in texture, and conveying a sweet, delectable sapor that reminded me of Chinese dan juan egg rolls.


tiramisu [$10.00]
The tiramisu, lastly, was also a very strong interpretation of the iconic dish, with a deft balance between sweet, boozy, and coffee-like flavors. Definitely get it if you're a fan of the dessert.

Chad Colby has garnered considerable acclaim for the quality of his salumi, and for good reason. His preparations were spot on, some of the tastiest bites of cured meat I'd had in a while actually, and his curing program should easily find its way among the City's best. In fact, chi SPACCA is worth a visit solely to try the charcuterie, though the rest of the menu is no slouch either. The place definitely represents a unique dining experience vis-à-vis its sister restaurants, and unsurprisingly, seems well on its way to becoming yet another hit for the Mozza group.

Allumette (Los Angeles, CA)

February 18, 2013, 8:10 pm

≫ Next: A.O.C. (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Allumette Restaurant
1320 Echo Park Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90026
213.935.8787
www.allumettela.com
Fri 02/08/2013, 08:10p-11:45p





When we last caught up with Chef Miles Thompson last summer, he was helming his Vagrancy Project pop-up at Bill DiDonna and Charles Kelly's Allston Yacht Club in Echo Park, serving up the most ambitious food that the neighborhood had ever seen. The experiment was largely a success, and owners DiDonna and Kelly decided to keep Thompson on and transform their place into the Chef's first solo effort: Allumette (French for "match," and also a matchstick-sized cut). The revamped restaurant debuted on January 31st, and given my satisfaction with his cooking previously, a visit was certainly called for.


As far as the interior goes, it hasn't changed all that much actually. It's a small, intimate space, set in tones of dark wood and red and with just a touch of Asian-y aesthetic.


Allumette's menu features around 15 small items divided into various sections, and the idea is to create your own tasting menu by ordering four to five of them. Naturally though, we just ended up requesting one of everything (except the large format plates) and sharing. As for the tipple, the cocktails here are in the capable hands of Serena Herrick from Hollywood's famed Harvard & Stone, while the wine list is curated by co-owner Charles Kelly. Click for larger versions.


You Live Only Twice [$11.00] | Sake - Beefeater Gin - Velvet Falernum - Tangerine - Szechuan Peppercorn - Fresh Lime
Gentleman's Breakfast [$12.00] | The Famous Grouse - Egg White - Lemon - Ginger Honey Syrup - Topped with Atomized Candy Cap Bitters and Islay Scotch
We were in a cocktail-y sort of mood though, and were determined to make our way through all seven of Herrick's creations. First out the gate was the possibly James Bond-inspired You Live Only Twice, which I found clean and fresh, with a nice blast of sweet, citrus-y spice set off by the zesty kick of Sichuan pepper. On the other hand, the Gentleman's Breakfast was much heftier, displaying an intensely aromatic nose of smoky peat leading to some nice change-ups between bitter, sour, and boozy nuances, all enveloped by a trace of ginger.


Thompson's bread and butter sort of rocked my world. What we had here was grilled focaccia accompanied by a fried butterball potato mash, with salt, Italian cheese, chive, and thyme. The bread itself was spot on, crisp and crunchy with a mouth-wateringly smoky, savory character, while the butter was even better, adding a pretty remarkable depth and lusciousness to the presentation. I've never had anything quite like it.


Ocean Trout Crudo - Yuzu Ponzu - Brussels Sprout - Pickled Grapes [$15.00]
The meal got off to a strong start with a crudo of ocean trout. The fish had a lovely savor and punch to it, amped up even further by the use of ponzu. At the same time, I really appreciated the slight astringency and levity provided by the Brussels sprouts, and the subtle overtones of heat were stupendous, really putting a great finishing touch on the dish.


Shimaaji Sashimi - Mustard Miso - Rice Crackers - Blood Orange - Kiwi [$14.00]
The striped jack was similarly tasty, with the clean, subdued fish taking on an additional complexity courtesy of the mustard-miso, while the fruit provided a nice touch of brightness, especially on the finish. I also loved the overarching heat imparted by the chilies here, and the crunch and savory kick of those rice crackers was spot on as well. Utterly balanced, with some wonderful flavor transitions.


Red Letter Day [$12.00] | Cocchi di Torino - Rhum J.M. - Orgeat - Fresh Lemon - Soda - Yuzu Bitters
Last Ango [$12.00] | Angostura Bitters - Smith & Cross - Orgeat - Pineapple Gomme - Fresh Lime
Our second round of cocktails brought us the Red Letter Day, a very light, somewhat tea-like drink with a refreshing interplay of bittersweet and citrus flavors all over a subtle undercurrent of Cocchi complexity. The Last Ango, meanwhile, made me think of Matt Biancaniello's legendary Last Tango in Modena, though there wasn't much similar except the name. It was one of my favorites though, with a fantastic nose of sugary spice moving toward a blend of bitter, sweet, and boozy notes on the palate.


Fried Oyster - Kimchi Ranch Dressing - Asian Pear Mignonette - Sea Spinach [$6.00]
I'm confident in deeming this the best fried oyster I've ever eaten. Indeed, the oyster itself was perfect: wonderfully crunchy and hearty on the outside, yet still creamy and briny within. It would've been just fine alone, but the kimchi ranch was genius, adding a tanginess, funk, and richness that complemented the bivalve in stellar fashion. If that wasn't enough, the pear added a fantastic crunch and juiciness that took the dish to an even higher level. A must try.


The second "bread" course was sort of an ode to American Southern cuisine, and featured a rectangle of brioche, topped with baby shrimp, okra, Angostura remoulade, and shrimp oil. There was a great depth to the bite, with the shrimp conveying a lingering hit of spice and savor that melded seamlessly with the remoulade, all while the brioche served as a light, slightly sweet base to the dish.


Herbed Sturgeon - Squashes - Poached Huckleberries - Artichokes Barigoule [$16.00]
Thompson did a great job with his sturgeon, giving it an immensely satisfying savoriness and salinity, along with a wonderfully firm, springy texture. It was delicious alone, but I also liked the use of artichoke as a counterpoint, and surprisingly, the sweetness of the berries and squash worked here, not overwhelming things at all, but instead making for an intriguing foil to the fish.


Grilled Octopus - Sour Apple Syrup - Cardamom Butterscotch Potato - Sorrel [$19.00]
The octopus was for sure one of the more adventurous preparations that I'd seen in a while. It was expertly cooked: supple and tender, yet with a good bite, along with a slightly sweet, slightly salty taste all joined by a light touch of char astringency. The interesting thing here was the amalgam of sour and spicy flavors that somehow managed to work with octopus, all underneath overtones of zesty sorrel.


Smoking Gun [$11.00] | Vida Mezcal - Cynar - Calisaya
Negroni Sbagliato #2 [$10.00] | Punt E Mes - Aperol - Graham Beck Brut - Fresh Sage
More cocktails. This time we had the Smoking Gun, which I rather enjoyed with its in-your-face smokiness up front and bittersweet midpalate, all leading toward a lingering, sweet finish from that Maraschino cherry. The Negroni Sbagliato #2 is a variation on the classic drink wherein the gin is replaced with sparkling wine. Personally, I found it even better than the original given the effervescence imparted by the South African sparkler, all combined with traditional flavors from the vermouth and Aperol.


Cavatelli - Uni Ragù - English Pea Purée - Poached Mushrooms - Fromage Noir [$16.00]
The cavatelli was divine, some of the best I've had in fact. I adored the firm, al dente texture on the pasta, and how it soaked up all the goodness from the uni, cheese, and white chocolate(?), all while the mushrooms contributed a well-placed earthiness and weight to the dish. The pea, meanwhile, was crucial as well, adding a bright, verdant pop to the course that really provided a perfect counterpoint to the pasta.


Szechuan Pork Dumpling - Cured Salmon Roe - Spicy Black Vinegar - Tarragon [$14.00]
Next, Thompson riffed on the classic shumai with his version of the pork dumplings. They were delicious, showing off some satisfyingly deep, dark, porcine flavors accented by a focused, vinegar-y tang. The greens, thus, were key in providing a sense of balance to the dish, and I appreciated the pricks of saltiness from the salmon roe as well.


Raviolo of Liquefied Blood Pudding - Scallop Carpaccio - Caramelized Anchovy [$14.00]
And now we come to the most potentially polarizing dish on the menu, so order carefully. Blood pudding can be sort of an acquired taste, and Thompson's ravioli conveyed all the earthy, heady, metallic flavors that you'd expect from it. It was pretty intense, so the scallop was key in moderating the dish, and also provided for some textural variation. Even better was the radicchio(?), which did wonders as a contrast to the pudding, and I appreciated the small loaf of bread included as well. Nice crunch from the pine nuts, too.


At Thompson's behest, Herrick sent out a special, off-menu whisky-based cocktail containing Famous Grouse, Amaro Averna, Angostura bitters, and orange. I loved the fragrant citrus nose on this one, along with the herb-y bitterness of the amaro and how the Scotch was so well integrated in the drink. A lot easier-drinking than it would appear.


The Chef then gave us a new dish to try, one that he was still working on: a braised lamb neck with cinnamon, turnip, clove, apricot, harissa, kimchi crab, star anise, and pumpkin. The meat, unsurprisingly, I found tender and quite "lamb-y," with a marked sweet spice to it. Radish was key in providing a contrasting bitterness to the dish, and also made for some great textural variation. My favorite thing here, though, was the harissa, which gave the dish a nice spicy kick. I would go a touch lighter on the clove and cinnamon, though.


Bitter Lettuces - Tangerine - Avocado - Smoked Soy Cream - Macadamia [$8.00]
Given the gravity of some of the preceding courses, a salad of various veggies was a nice reprieve. As the name of the course would imply, the bitterness of the lettuces was on proud display, a bracing, yet refreshing jolt of astringency that was duly moderated by the use of avocado and soy cream, while the tangerine added an apt sweetness on the finish.


Squab Breast - Date Soubise - Baharat - Cinnamon Labne - Grapefruit [$16.00]
Squab arrived done up in Mediterranean garb. The meat itself I found tender, smoky, and imbued with a blast of sweet spice that was actually a bit overwhelming. The bird was somewhat lost amongst the heady flavors of baharat, date, and cinnamon, though the squab "chips" did help, providing a lip-smacking saltiness that brought things back to the savory side.


Pork Shoulder - Bacon - Crosnes - Caramelized Onions - Feuille de Brick [$16.00]
Pork shoulder was delightful: fork-tender and utterly luxurious, with plenty of piggy goodness and a lovely sweetness from the caramelized onions, while the use of crosnes added further interest in each bite. I also enjoyed the shards of feuille de brick and their contribution to the textural interplay of the dish.


Carrot Salad - Sunchokes - Radishes - Pickled Turnips - Black Carrot Syrup [$9.00]
I'm no fan of carrots, but what Thompson did for this last savory course was pretty masterful. I loved how the root vegetables were presented in various facets and forms, each one adding something to the conversation of sweet, sour, bitter, salty, and spicy flavors.


Le Système Solaire [$10.00] | Oloroso Sherry - Dolin Blanc Vermouth - Bergamot Bitters
Our final cocktail brought us Le Système Solaire, a fine drink displaying the nutty, oxidative qualities of Sherry, augmented by the bittersweet, subtly herbal combination of the vermouth and bitters.


Citrus Curd - Rhubarb-Lime Gelée - Sumac - Poppy - Rose Geranium [$7.00]
Dessert time. The citrus curd conveyed a balance of sweet and sour flavors, contrasted against the spice of poppy seeds, with the rose geranium overlaying a whisper of floral character to the dish. The rhubarb-lime jelly, I must caution, though, was quite bitter, and will probably be off-putting to some. Be warned.


Cheesecake Mousse - Frozen Cookie Dough - Red Walnuts - Maple Syrup [$7.00]
My favorite of the three desserts was this sort of reimagined cheesecake. The slight tanginess of the mousse paired well with the sweet, frozen dough, making for a sort of butter cookie-esque sensation, while the maple kicked up the sugariness level even further. The walnuts, meanwhile, offered up a nutty component to the plate, and also imparted a nice crunch to things. A comforting dessert, with a great "crust."


Red Velvet Cake - Port Syrup - Coffee Milk Mascarpone - Colombier [$7.00]
We ended with a take on the classic red velvet cake, a "grown up" version according to my dining companion. Indeed, its sweetness was restrained, and instead gave us a palpable bitterness, amplified by the boozy notes from the Port and the soft astringency of coffee. A bit simplistic, but tasty.

Compared to what he was serving at his pop-up, Thompson's cooking now seems to have matured. There's more subtlety at play, more finesse, though the ambitiousness and stimulating flavor combinations are still there. Overall, I liked the food even better this time around, and I think his cooking is going to get stronger and stronger and time goes on--remember, he's only 25. As for what's next, the Chef is planning to implement a tasting menu option in the coming months, so that's definitely something to return for.

A.O.C. (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

February 18, 2013, 7:30 pm

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AOC Restaurant
8700 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048
310.859.9859
www.aocwinebar.com
Mon 02/18/2013, 07:30p-10:45p





Since debuting in 2002, A.O.C. has been a benchmark for wine bars here in LA, and after 10 years in business, the restaurant has just gotten some brand new digs. Yes, earlier this month, Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne's acclaimed eatery moved into the space once occupied by Il Covo, Orso, and Walter El Nagar's pop-up Barbershop (which, coincidentally, is relocating to the old A.O.C. space). It'd been over three years since my last visit to the place, so I figured that this rebirth of sorts was a good excuse to return.


A.O.C.'s menu has been tweaked a bit, though it still features Goin's Cal-Med stylings, as executed by Chef de Cuisine Lauren Herman. Meanwhile, there's been more flux on the beverage side of things. The wine list remains the realm of Styne, but there's a new cocktail program in place, courtesy of barman Christiaan Rollich. Click for larger versions.


fire & smoke [$14.00] | alipus mezcal, tequila, blood orange, sweet wood infusion, arbol chile
Naturally, I had to give the newly installed cocktail program a go, and started off with the aptly-named fire & smoke. The woody, smoky essence of the mezcal/tequila combo absolutely made sense with the sweet, tart citrus notes present, and the chile de árbol added a lovely, overarching heat to the drink. Overall, nicely integrated, and surprisingly quaffable. Following, we went with wine, specifically a rather spectacular bottle of gigondas domaine la bouissieres '09 [$104], a big, fruity southern Rhône that I unfortunately forgot to snap a photo of.


young escarole, fennel, anchovy & parmesan [$9.00]
The meal started off light with this escarole salad, the bright, bitter greens pairing well with the crisp, focused flavors of shaved fennel and carrot. Anchovy and Parm, meanwhile, contributed a much-needed gravity to the course that did a nice job in tying everything together.


the farmer's plate [$15.00] | roasted vegetables, chickpea purée, muhammara, burrata & grilled toast
The requisite veggie plate, meanwhile, was actually pretty delicious, with the troika of burrata, hummus, and muhammara working hand in hand with the perfectly roasted, true-to-form vegetables. A pleasant surprise.


braised leeks, goat cheese, pancetta [$14.00]
Next up was an item from A.O.C.'s newly-instituted "focaccia" portion of the menu. The dish came out looking more like a pizzetta than what you'd typically expect from the bread, but was enjoyable nonetheless. I really appreciated how the sweetness of the leeks complemented the goat cheese here, as well as the salty kick of those crunchy pancetta strips. Lovely crispness on the crust, too.


clams, sherry, green garlic & toast [$14.00]
Clams were on point as well, with a pleasantly supple, yet substantial bite to 'em, while their subdued brine was augmented by the paired nuances of sherry and green garlic. They had just a delightful depth that I really appreciated. Very nice.


brioche, prosciutto, gruyère & egg [$14.00]
Bread, ham, cheese, egg. It's pretty hard to go too astray with these ingredients, and this course was no exception. We're talking classic flavors, with the prosciutto, egg, and cheese all coming together for a hearty, salty, satisfying mélange, only partially moderated by the light frisée and toasty bread. Foolproof.


arroz negro, squid & saffron aïoli [$14.00]
Rice arrived black as night, a touch below al dente, with a heady, ocean-y relish that amplified the soft, supple pieces of squid strewn within. The use of saffron added a distinct piquancy to the dish that I liked, and the astringency of the onions was even better.


salt cod-potato gratin, sweet peppers & mahon [$15.00]
A gratin of salt cod was utterly delectable, wonderfully fishy as you'd expect, with an almost fluffy consistency and a chewy, salty complement in the form of the Mahón cheese. At the same time, the peppers lent a certain brightness to the dish that kept things from going too monotone. Yum.


spanish fried chicken, romesco aïoli & chili-cumin butter [$13.00]
I have a hard time not ordering the fried chicken when I see it on a menu, so this was no surprise. The bird itself was expertly prepared: crisp and crunchy on the outside, yet still moist and tender on the inside. The nuggets were delish alone, conveying a pretty remarkable depth and complexity, but became even better with a dab of that romesco.


cauliflower, curry & red vinegar [$9.00]
Being the cauliflower slut that I am, this was a must-order. The course didn't let me down, delivering all the cauliflower goodness that I was hoping for, intermingled with the aromatics of curry and a whisper of acidity from the vinegar. Great texture on the veggie, too.


brussels sprouts, radicchio, burrata & breadcrumbs [$12.00]
Brussels sprouts are another fetish of mine, and presented here with radicchio, they were wonderful, forming a bevy of crisp, bright flavors that melded beautifully with the richness of the burrata, all while the breadcrumbs offered up a superb textural play to the dish.


pappardelle, kabocha, chanterelles, rapini & parmesan [$14.00]
Pappardelle, unfortunately, managed to be the weakest dish of the evening. Certainly, the pasta was well cooked, but the dish just seemed overly salty to me, and I wasn't a fan of the kabocha here either. I would've liked to have tasted more from the rapini, which I think would've provided a little more balance to things.


pork cheeks, polenta, mustard oil & gremolata [$16.00]
Pork cheeks were as falling-apart tender, rich, dark, and heavy as one would expect, with the polenta serving as a sort of temper to the meat. It was tasty, though I wanted more lightness and acidity from the gremolata here to provide some contrast on the plate.


wood-grilled whole fish, tomato rice, fried egg & crispy sopressata [$38.00]
We now move on to the "platters" portion of the menu, also a new addition. Up first was a whole sea bream, a magnificent specimen that I was quite fond of. The fish was spot on, with a mouth-watering, yet restrained brininess and a delightfully crisp, savory skin. It was delicious alone, but a fried egg makes everything better, and that was the case here for sure.


house made sausages, mustard potatoes & red cabbage in red wine [$36.00]
Sausage and potato--two of my favorite comestibles, together at last. We had a couple varieties of tubed meat here, and each was unique and delicious in its own right. Pair that with some hearty taters, tangy kraut, some red wine, and you have yourself a hell of a dish.


Desserts remain the charge of longtime Pastry Chef Christina Olufson. Click for a larger version.


dessert platter to share [$24.00] | vanilla pot de crème with spanish chocolate and marcona almonds / chocolate torta with coffee cream, medjool dates, candied almonds and hazelnuts / assorted house-made chocolates and confections
Given that we were already burstingly full by this point, we went easy on the desserts, and just ordered a platter to share. There was a nice variety of sweet treats here, and I was particularly enamored with the s'mores and that chocolate-covered honeycomb toffee, which recalled a grown-up Butterfinger.

A.O.C. seemed to have lost none of its verve in the move. The restaurant is back and better than ever, serving up old standbys, new favorites, and cocktails(!), all in a comfier, cozier environment. It's a winning combination that's going to make the place a fixture in the neighborhood for years to come. As for what's next for Goin and Styne, following the success of The Larder at Maple Drive (which bowed in fall 2011 and also serves as home base to Lucques Catering), the duo is planning another café-cum-bakery in the form of The Larder at Burton Way, as well as a restaurant in the wealthy enclave of Montecito. And that's not all: a version of The Larder at Tavern is set to debut this year inside the Tom Bradley International Terminal at LAX. Big things poppin'.

WineBar @ CoffeeBar (Los Angeles, CA)

February 21, 2013, 7:30 pm

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WineBar at CoffeeBar Pop-Up
600 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.327.1157
www.coffeebarla.com
Thu 02/21/2013, 07:30p-10:10p





The City's latest pop-up comes to us courtesy of Greg Bernhardt.

A bit of history for the uninitiated: Bernhardt's an LA stalwart who cut his teeth at Le Dome and Vida before becoming Neal Fraser's Chef de Cuisine at Grace (he even assisted Fraser on Iron Chef America, defeating Cat Cora in Battle Pork). In 2007, he was hired by Steven Arroyo to run things at 750mL in South Pasadena, but left soon after to open Church & State. His tenure there was brief, though, and he was out by November 2008, replaced by none other than Walter Manzke. From there, he moved on to several iterations of LudoBites, serving as sous, then went on to consult at The Kitchen Table with Fernando Darin. His latest gig is with ACME Bar Group, where he's serving as Executive Chef for a number of projects, one of which is a revamp of CoffeeBar in Downtown's Old Bank District.

Bernhardt is planning to transform the space into a legit restaurant. But before then, he's holding a temporary dinner series with his friend Sergio Perera, another LudoBites alum whom we last encountered at the Amalur Project pop-up at Marcona. The unfortunately-named WineBar @ CoffeeBar debuted on February 6th, and runs Tuesdays through Sundays until mid-March.


The WineBar@CoffeeBar menu features a compact list of reasonably-priced dishes, designed as a collaborative effort between the two chefs. A small group can easily run the gamut here, which is exactly what we did (though the mushroom course was curiously omitted). To drink, there's a small selection of wines (all available by the glass), as well as a handful of beers, and coffee too, I suppose. BYOB is a possibility. Click for larger versions.


What better way to start than with some bubbly? Hence, we popped a bottle of the N/V Capdevila y Pujol Brut Nature [$29], a dry, quaffable sparkler that worked out well enough.


Jamon [$12.00] | Ciabatta, Tomato
Up first was a straightforward plate containing slices of nutty, fatty jamón serrano. The ham itself was spot on, but the paired pan con tomate fell short, being rather tough to chew and providing too little in terms of offsetting tomato tartness.


Next, Perera presented an extra plate comprised of potato "nests" encircling whipped crème fraîche, bottarga, lavender flower, and mustard. They were delicious little bites, with a wonderful crunch and the salty, satisfying weight of the potato playing off the tangy cream in commendable fashion. A great amuse bouche-y type of course.


Cured Snapper [$12.00] | Yuzu Koshu, Radish, Olive Oil, Herbs
A crudo dish of sorts featured clean, supple cuts of red snapper, nicely enhanced by the weight of the olive oil "caviar" present and the undercurrent of vegetal nuances provided by the kale oil. My favorite thing here, though, was the use of yuzukosho, which lent a salty, spicy intensity to the finish that I was quite enamored with.


Potato Soup [$8.00] | Egg, Chorizo
Up next was Bernhardt's riff on Ludo's well-known "Poached Egg, Potato Mousseline, Chorizo" dish. Though it didn't quite reach the lofty levels of its predecessor, the dish was tasty and stood on its own merits. The velouté formed a rich, hearty base to things, and the interplay between the egg and overarching spice of the chorizo was classically effective. At the same time, the incorporation of brown butter croutons added a nice textural element, and I believe also imparted a slight sweetness to the mix.


Our second wine was the Fiano di Avellino 2011, Struzziero 'Vigna Pezze', Campaina, Italy [$39], which I was quite fond of. In fact, my dining companions and I all loved its bright, honeyed, stonefruit-laced sweetness and crisp, refreshing character.


Baby Vegetables [$12.00] | Buttermilk, Kale
The requisite veggie plate arrived beautifully presented. The various items here showed off a bevy of bright, bitter, verdant flavors and a delightful mélange of textures, all while the included vinaigrette and kale oil served to tie everything together. Surprisingly satisfying.


Beef Tartare [$12.00] | Pepper Cress, Rye, Cured Egg Aioli
The beef tartar made a nice showing, conveying a great herbaceousness from the cress and nasturtium that melded seamlessly with the gravity of the meat, all while rye dust imprinted a palpable earthiness to the dish. I also quite liked the aioli here, which added a palpable punch to things and did a great job integrating the various elements at play. Superb when taken with the accompanying bread.


Fried Squid [$9.00] | Ink Salt, Citrus Aioli
Now this I found quite whimsical, as well as tasty, with the squid's crisp, briny crust working well with its supple, creamy insides. A dab of the tangy aioli, meanwhile, served as a fitting finishing touch to the dish, making this a fun take on traditional fried calamari.


Pork Cheek [$10.00] | Shelling Beans, Sherry, Marjoram
Pork cheek was just as you'd expect: falling-apart tender and teeming with dark, sticky, porcine flavors, all while the red pepper sherry vinaigrette imparted a bit of balance to things. I really appreciated the flageolet and cranberry beans here, too, which worked as a fantastic counterpoint to the pork.


Our final beverage was the De Struise Rio Reserva, a rather hard-to-find Belgian that I'd brought from my collection. It was an intriguing beer to be sure, a golden quadrupel brewed way back in 2008, aged for a year in Bordeaux barrels, then aged another three years in Bourbon barrels before finally being bottled in 2012. I quite enjoyed it, with its multifaceted burst of spicy, fruity, caramel-y, and woody flavors intermingled with a marked, pervasive alcoholic tinge. Very cool.


Oxtail Soup Dumpling [$12.00] | Parmesan
Oxtail was as hearty and satisfying as I wanted, putting forth some really deep, satisfying flavors that played nicely with the included shavings of Parmesan. The pasta, meanwhile, did a great job in providing a textural counterpoint to the meat, and also served to ground and moderate the dish. However, a bit more brightness or acidity would've been nice.


Pork Belly [$10.00] | Pickled Purple Onion Petals, Sancho Pepper
We ended the savory section of our meal with a lovely presentation of pork belly. The meat arrived expertly prepared, with a boatload of piggy flavors and a great balance between fat and lean, along with a wonderfully crisp crust. Certainly, the belly stood alone, but the various greenery worked wonders in providing contrast and levity to the plate.


Bourbon Apple Brûlée [$8.00] | Creme Fraiche, Crisp Almond Cake
A cooked apple gave us a satisfying crunch as well as a burst of sweet, spicy flavors, intertwined with a touch of herbaceousness (rosemary?). I quite liked the almond financiers here too, while the crème fraîche certainly added a light, tangy temper to the dessert.


Sponge Cake [$8.00] | Lemon Curd, Chocolate Cremeux, Yogurt
The sponge cake (aerated brioche?) showed off an almost impossibly light, ethereal consistency, one grounded by the chocolate-y, fruity notes present. A dash of thyme, olive oil, and salt, meanwhile, added a savory twang to the dessert that really took it to the next level.

This was another laudable showing from Perera, and it was great to finally be able to taste Bernhardt's food for the first time as well. I will say, though, that since this was a collaborative effort, the menu didn't have as much cohesion as I would've liked. That being said, there were some great dishes presented tonight. As for what's next for the duo, Chef Bernhardt will be launching 6th Street Tavern in place of the old Urbano Pizza Bar in the coming weeks (where he'll likely spend most of his time), and CoffeeBar will be rebooted as well, turning into a bona fide restaurant. Chef Perera, meanwhile, will be consulting at Marcona for a bit, and will continue firming up plans to open his first solo project in LA. Stay tuned.

Bar Amá (Los Angeles, CA)

March 3, 2013, 7:15 pm

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Bar Ama Restaurant
118 W 4th St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.687.8002
www.bar-ama.com
Tue 02/12/2013, 07:15p-09:40p



When we last encountered Josef Centeno, he was busy mixing things up at his well-received Bäco Mercat, which he opened to considerable fanfare in November 2011. Fast forward to last December, and we have the arrival of the Chef's newest venture, also situated in Downtown: Bar Amá. Modeled after a Tex-Mex cantina of sorts, the restaurants aims to serve elevated interpretations of the food that Centeno grew up with, inspired by the memories of the women who raised him (Amá translates to "lady" in Spanish).


Inside, things are set up in a similar fashion to his other restaurant, with the bar on one side and the dining room on the other, though it is a slightly warmer space.


The Bar Ama menu features most of your Tex-Mex favorites, some of which were drawn from Centeno family recipes, as well as a number of more globally-influenced plates. A full drink selection is also available, though the focus here is clearly on the tequilas and mezcals (it's probably the best collection I've seen). Click for larger versions.


Papitas Bravas [$5.00] | bus driver sauce, pg spice
We began with a snack that may or may not have been inspired by the Spanish tapas dish of patatas bravas. It comprised potato chips basically, wonderfully crunchy ones with a mouth-tingling, multifaceted spice and savor. Amping things up even more was the Chef's "bus driver" sauce, a reworked version of serrano-based salsa arriera (mule driver's sauce).


Tahoma Limon [$12.00] | Mezcal Joven, Lime, Sugar
Zapatista [$12.00] | Bacanora Blanco, Serrano, Cilantro, Honey, Citrus
Cocktails ended up being the libations of choice this evening, and first on that list was the Tahoma Limon. It was sort of a classic presentation of mezcal, with the tartness of the citrus up front leading to smoky mezcal nuances on the midpalate, all while the sugar provided a sweet undercurrent to the drink. The Zapatista, on the other hand, featured the intensity of the bacanora (mezcal made in Sonora, basically) on the attack, which then led to an interplay of chile and honey flavors on the way to a long, lingering finish.


Chile Shrimp Ceviche [$12.00] | watercress, pickled red onion, lime
The ceviche arrived looking more like a salad, but all the expected flavors were there. The lime, naturally, gave the dish a sour edge, though the pomegranate did add some sweetness to the fray. I really appreciated the tanginess and crunch of the red onion as well, and the overarching heat in the dish was spot on, too. Overall, there was a pretty good balance of contrasting flavors here, though the texture on the shrimp could've been more satisfying (they were a bit limp).


Fideo w/Octopus & Kielbasa [$11.00] | vermicelli, shrimp broth, pepitas
A dish of fideo noodles, octopus, and sausage was a table favorite. I was a fan of the disparate textures of the two types of meat, as well as the more delicate, sweeter taste of the octopus versus the more in-your-face savor of kielbasa. This was a hearty, comforting dish, with a nice crunch from the pepitas.


Mom's Fried Rice [$6.00] | zucchini, tomato, garlic
What we had here was a version of the arroz one typically associates with Tex-Mex cooking, but enhanced by the inclusion of some bright, tasty bits of vegetable that added a certain lightness to the dish.


Cauliflower & Cilantro Pesto [$9.00] | cashew, pine nut, lime
Our server recommended this cauliflower dish, and she was right on the money. The light, aromatic pesto here worked brilliantly with the undertones of heat in the dish in providing a counterpoint to the vegetable, and I loved the crunch imparted by the nuts as well. Nice crispness on the cauliflower, too.


Crispy Chicharrón [$13.00] | lime, bus driver sauce
The chicharrones were another highlight of the meal, displaying a beautiful mix of lean and fat, along with a wonderfully crisp crust and a boatload of pork-y savor. The lettuce was crucial in tempering the sheer heft of the belly, and I appreciated the finishing touch of spice imparted once again by that "bus driver" sauce.


Chingon [$12.00] | Tequila Reposado, Citrus, Orgeat, Benedictine, Orange
The Chingon was named after the Mexican slang term for "badass," and the drink almost lived up to its moniker, conveying a balanced mix of sweet and sour flavors over a base of boozy, slightly medicinal flavors.


Nana's Frito Pie [$13.00] | lengua chile con carne, crema, mulato
And now, we come to what is perhaps Bar Ama's most infamous dish, the Southwestern classic of Frito pie, retooled and served in a skillet rather than the traditional foil bag. It was one of my favorites, giving us a rich, hearty base of flavors from the tongue chile and cheese, while the sour cream and mulato pepper offered up some contrast to the gravity of the meat. The various elements came together very nicely here, and I loved how the crunch of the Fritos was still intact. A bit slutty, but a must order nonetheless.


Mom's Green Enchiladas [$12.00] | chicken, tomatillo, monterey jack
As much as I enjoyed the aforementioned pie, I thought the enchiladas were even better, probably the best I've had in fact. Though the ingredients here were par for the course, the execution was spot on, with the homey, hearty chicken melding perfectly with the housemade tortillas and cheese, all while the tomatillo, onion, and crema served as well-placed tempers in the dish.


Grilled Shrimp [$12.00] | jalapeno cream
If you come to Bar Ama, you'd be remiss if you didn't try the restaurant's puffy tacos, a preparation in which the tortillas are fried until they balloon up, ostensibly invented in the Chef's hometown of San Antonio. It wouldn't surprise me if these were better than the originals though, as they were delicious. The shrimp was on point, not overdone, but with a nice char and a slightly briny taste that worked beautifully with the taco's spicy, creamy dressing. Meanwhile, the avocado and veggies provided a lightness to the dish, and I loved the crunchy, yet supple shell as well.


Carne Guisada [$11.00] | hierba santa chile sauce
Out second set of puffy tacos were stuffed with carne guisada, basically stewed, shredded beef in a hoja santa-based sauce. Though it didn't quite reach the lofty level of the shrimp, this was delectable as well, with the meat displaying a great flavor and a delightfully complex tinge of heat, all while the avocado and lettuce served to complete the dish.


Banana Leaf Wrapped Rabbit Leg [$24.00] | avocado, sesame, almond
Cooked falling-apart tender in a banana leaf, the rabbit leg showed off a certain richness and depth to it that paired superbly with the dish's nutty, almost mole-esque sauce. This was a heavy, hearty course, with the corn serving as a lovely accoutrement.


Chicken Fried Steak "Kinda Traditional" [$22.00] | cream of wheat, fried egg
Our final savory was the chicken fried steak. I was really looking forward to the dish, but it was, unfortunately, the weakest course of the evening. I wasn't enamored with the beef here, finding it on the tough side, and not particularly flavorful. I liked the taste and crispness of the batter, but it had a hard time adhering to the cutlet. On the plus side, the egg made sense here, and the onions counteracted the heft of the meat commendably. This had the potential to be a great dish, but just didn't work out.


Alice's Cooler [$11.00] | Tequila Blanco, Lime, Simple Syrup, Hibiscus Soda
Luz's Cooler [$11.00] | Smith & Cross, White Rum, Pineapple-Canela, Velvet Falernum
We actually ordered these two cocktails earlier on in the meal, but they came out super late (right before dessert), and thus ended up being comped by our server (a nice touch). That's not to say, however, that we didn't drink them. Alice's Cooler was herb-y and sweet, with a soft, refreshing, feminine quality to it that made it go down easy. Luz's Cooler, on the other hand, was harder-edged, with a boozy base from the rum aptly playing off of the tangy, sweet-spice notes in the drink.


All of us were quite stuffed at this point, but dessert was still a must. Click for a larger version.


Leche Quemada (Burnt Milk) Pudding [$9.00] | Graham Cracker, Fennel Pollen, Peanut, Almond
A dessert featuring leche quemada (cajeta or dulce de leche, basically) was rather fetching. The pudding itself I found intriguing, with a fruity, spicy sweetness to it that I couldn't quite put my finger on, perhaps due to the fennel pollen. The flavors really worked out well here, and I loved the crunch of the Graham cracker and peanut, too.


Coconut Tres Leches [$8.00] | Coconut, Cream, Vanilla
We ended with Bar Ama's riff on the classic pastel de tres leches. This was a dense, but not overly heavy cake, with the sweetness of the milks pairing with the coconut to give the dessert an almost Southeast Asian character to it.

In the end, Centeno is putting out some fairly faithful reproductions of Tex-Mex cooking here. He's not reinventing the wheel, but rather, trying to bring out the best of the genre by using higher quality ingredients and more precise technique. Not counting the whiff with the CFS, the results are pretty promising, with the Chef's more focused, purer flavors undoubtedly elevating the oft-maligned cuisine. Indeed, the cooking's a bit rougher, and not as refined or nuanced as what he's done at Bäco Mercat or even Lazy Ox, but then again, it probably shouldn't be.

IO by Playground (Santa Ana, CA)

March 7, 2013, 7:00 pm

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Invitation Only at Playground 2.0
220 E 4th St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
www.playgrounddtsa.com
Thu 03/07/2013, 07:00p-10:15p





Since debuting in November 2011, Playground has firmly established itself at the forefront of the Orange County dining scene, earning legions of followers in the process. As sharp as Chef Jason Quinn's cooking is, though, there was just something more that he wanted. He dreamed of a place where he could truly celebrate his obsessively-sourced, often times scarce ingredients, an intimate venue where the bounds of cost, complexity, and time go out the window. His vision has been realized in the form of IO, an invitation-only dining series held sporadically at 2.0, a "culinary theater" of sorts situated right next door to the main restaurant (the space is also used for private dinners, pop-ups, cooking classes, and other special events).


Inside, you'll find an intimate room housing 17 seats surrounding a well-equipped exhibition kitchen. There's only one seating per night, which starts promptly at 7:00 (and I mean promptly--we arrived at 7:02 and people were already eating). The roughly 30-course omakase-style degustation will set you back $250 per head (inclusive of food, drink, tax, and tip), and tickets must be purchased in advance.


1: WATER & LEMON
Tonight's menu, entitled "When the Dog Bites and the Bee Stings," started off with a seemingly innocuous goblet of water with lemon. It held a stealthy secret though: the lemon was actually a Lemon Drop in jellified form, an admixture of vodka, lemon juice, and sugar that left a boozy, acerbic imprint on the palate.


Chef Quinn then introduced the team and gave us a brief spiel on what IO is all about.


2: PASSION FRUIT WELCOME | vanilla custard
Serving as an amuse bouche of sorts, the spoon deftly played the tart, tangy passionfruit against the tempering effect of the vanilla.


The kitchen having some fun with the liquid nitrogen used in our next course.


3: NITRO JAPANESE BABY PEACH CAIPIRINHA
A liquid nitrogen-laced caipirinha showed off all the boozy, sweet, and sour notes of the classic cocktail, but in a creamy, dense, lush form, capped off by an absolutely delightful momo chan baby peach at the bottom.


4: BLOODY OYSTER | beet juice fed kushii, beet mignonette, horseradish tapioca, fresh lemon
Next was arguably the most ambitious preparation of oyster that I'd ever experienced. Quinn procured some Kusshis, then, after some experimentation, kept them alive in a mixture of salt water and beet juice. As a result, not only were the oysters dyed a brilliant magenta, they were postively imbued with the sweetness of the root vegetable, which served as a fantastic counterpoint to the salinity of the bivalves. I loved the textural component from the tapioca as well.


5: JIDORI OYSTER | a tribute to Uncle Lou
Quinn presented an homage to Memphis' legendary Uncle Lou's with this marvelous Jidori chicken oyster (a version of the dish made with regular parts is available at the main restaurant). The oyster is a prized part of the bird near the top of the thigh, one renowned for its firm, satisfying consistency and taste. Here, it was perfectly done, wonderfully crisp, and with boatloads of chicken-y savor balanced by a marked vinegar-y tang. I'd love a bucket of the stuff!


A napkin to wipe our fingers with: just add water (last seen at Baumé).


6: JASON'S FAVORITE INGREDIENT | paletta iberico de bellota
Ah ibérico de bellota paleta--can't go wrong with this. Strictly speaking, it's not the same as the more popular jamón, but rather, a similar cut from the front legs of the pata negra. It was just as tasty though: fatty and slick, with a rich, nutty flavor that's always satisfying.


7: CHAMPAGNE & CAVIAR | rio frio caviar
Chef Carson then presented one of his signature dishes, the "Champagne & Caviar" that I'd first had over at AnQi. It was lighter, and better balanced than I remember, with the sweetness of the geleé transitioning beautifully to the salty jolt of the Spanish caviar. Whimsical.


8: CANARY ISLAND OCTOPUS CEVICHE | golden truffle sauce, red onion, tortilla
LARMANDIER-BERNIER TRADITION PREMIER CRU CHAMPAGNE
Quinn mentioned that his favorite octopus in the world comes from the Canary Islands, and I can't say that I disagree. The cephalopod was cooked to a super tender consistency here, and worked flawlessly against the spicy, herbaceous notes in the bite. Loved the contrasting crunch of tortilla chip, too. I wouldn't have minded several more of these to munch on.


Rhett Butler works as Playground's sommelier, and also serves as host for IO. Here, he talks to us about our next sake pairing.


Jason having way too much fun with the geoduck.


9: LIVE GEODUCK CLAM | Yuzu Koshu
YUKI NO BOSHA "CABIN IN THE SNOW" JUNMAI GINJO SAKE
All joking aside though, this was some damn good mirugai. Served simply with yuzukosho, lemon, and Maldon sea salt, the clam showed off a gorgeous crunchiness, and its brine was perfectly moderated by the spicy, salty, and sour nuances present. Flawless.


Here, Chef Quinn dispatches some sizeable live scallops, several of which had apparently feasted on small fish prior to being captured (as shown in the second photo). In the third photo, note the grating of real wasabi using an oroshigane.


10: LIVE SCALLOP | olive oil, lemon, beautiful soy, wasabi
YUKI NO BOSHA "CABIN IN THE SNOW" JUNMAI GINJO SAKE
The aforementioned scallops--so fresh, so clean--were presented on a platter meant for sharing, and were accompanied by flavors that highlighted the inherent nuances of the mollusk without overpowering them. I was especially fond of that wasabi.


Quinn showed us the shoyu used in the course above, which is supposedly some of the best soy sauce around.


11: KANPACHI | pickled ginger, lime, fish sauce, jalapeño, masago
YUKI NO BOSHA "CABIN IN THE SNOW" JUNMAI GINJO SAKE
The scallop was followed by another shared plate, this one filled with glistening pink slices of amberjack. The fish was firm to the bite, with a fresh, clean taste augmented by the weight of the fish sauce, all while the ginger added a great, tangy counterpoint to the course. Loved the savory crunch of those little rice crackers, too.


12: JICAMA WRAPPED LIVE SEA URCHIN | toasted coconut, macadamia, avo mousse, compressed cucumber
YUKI NO BOSHA "CABIN IN THE SNOW" JUNMAI GINJO SAKE
"Tacos" of jicama-wrapped uni conveyed the bright, juicy snap of the root vegetable initially, while the nutty crunch of the macadamia arrived later on the palate, before the bite finally finished with a touch of sweet salinity. I would've liked the sea urchin to have been a bit more dominant here though.


13: 500 DEGREE SHRIMP COCKTAIL | lime, horseradish, tomato
DUCATO/DRIE FONTEINEN BEERSEL MATTINA
In our most "hands-on" course, spot prawns were cooked in 500-degree salt (a preparation perhaps popularized by Providence) and presented beautifully with a housemade "cocktail sauce." I first tucked into the tail portion of the shrimp, and it was spot on, with a snappy, slightly rare texture and mild relish that paired swimmingly with the salty globules of roe still present. The head (gotta suck the head!), meanwhile, was a must-try as well, with a sharp ocean-y character to it that went well with the crustacean's salty crust.


14: DOUBLE DOUBLE | fuck you
DUCATO/DRIE FONTEINEN BEERSEL MATTINA
A reimagined Double-Double, courtesy of Chef Carson, really captured the essence of the original, with the meatiness of the "patty" working in unison with the crisp veggies and the overarching "secret sauce."


15: FRIED GEODUCK BELLY | lemon-caper-shallot aioli
2011 GROTTA DEL SOLE- GRAGNANO DELLA PENISOLA SORRENTINA DOC
While the trunk of the geoduck was presented above, the belly of the beast was served later in the meal on a passed plate. Fried into golden fritters of goodness, the clam was fantastic--tender and savory, with a superb complement in the form of that tangy aioli. And yes, a comparison to the Filet-O-Fish was even tossed around.


16: OTOKOMAE & O TORO ACTING ITALIAN | o toro prosciutto, fancy olive oil, 25 year balsamic
2011 GROTTA DEL SOLE- GRAGNANO DELLA PENISOLA SORRENTINA DOC
Here, the kitchen riffed on the classic pairing of mozzarella and prosciutto, using instead tofu from Kyoto producer Otokomae and homemade two-week cured otoro "ham." The result was a harmony of sweet 'n' sour flavors on the attack, transitioning on the midpalate to the fishy aromatics of the tuna, all while the tofu served as a tempering base to the bite.


17: BONE MARROW SFORMATO | iberico de bellota chorizo marmalade, tyler's sourdough mini boules, truffle salt
2011 GROTTA DEL SOLE- GRAGNANO DELLA PENISOLA SORRENTINA DOC
A sformato is basically like a set custard or dense soufflé, and the version here came bearing the heady flavors of bone marrow. Taken alone, it was fairly subdued, so the key was to pair it with that marvelous chorizo jam, which added a confluence of sweet, spicy, and savory flavors that brought everything together. The housemade bread, meanwhile, did well in tempering the intensity of the dish and also provided body and substance.


Steam pours out of the pricey (as in the same range as a base model Nissan Altima) Rational combi-oven. Hmmm, what could possibly be cooking?


18: FORBIDDEN STEAM BUN | foie gras torchon, apricot hoisin, sugar crunch
MIKKELLER FUNKY E SAUTERNES BARREL EDITION
Next, diners were given the option of a complementary course of Hudson Valley foie gras. The torchon was classic at its core, conveying a restrained earthiness from the liver that made absolute sense with the sweet and savory flavors of the apricot-hoisin. Maldon added pricks of saltiness to the fray, while the fluffy bun contrasted the potency of the course. I miss foie.


19: JIDORI CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE | iberico de bellota bacon, port shallots, frisée, garlic croutons
MIKKELLER FUNKY E SAUTERNES BARREL EDITION
The chicken liver managed to be a table favorite of sorts, and for good reason. It was a pretty much flawless presentation of the mousse, which really showed off the gravity of the liver without being heavy-handed. The bacon was key in adding hits of salt to the dish, and the shallots sweetness, while the frisée was even more important, imparting a crucial touch of levity to the course. I also appreciated the croutons as well, which mixed things up texturally (I'm big on crunch).


20: ROMESCO ROMANESCO | red walnuts, sultanas, capers
2011 BIRICHINO MALVASIA BIANCA
Romanesco is a form of cauliflower known for its striking fractal patterns, though taste wise, it was fairly similar to the standard vegetable. The genius here, thus, was in the romesco and other accoutrements, which, in concert, provided a multifaceted array of spicy, nutty, and sweet flavors that took the romanesco to another level.


21: FROST KISSED ARTICHOKE CARPACCIO | kalamata olive, calabrian chile gummies, crispy parmesan, charred scallion-artichoke purée, meyer lemon
2011 BIRICHINO MALVASIA BIANCA
We had here an unabashedly unique preparation of artichoke, in which the bud is frozen then allowed to rot, in the process condensing and amplifying its flavor--dry aging in effect. The plant is then confit'd in olive oil and presented shaved thin. The end result is a concentrated burst of artichoke-y flavor, focused yet not clumsy, and especially tasty when paired with the weight of the Parmesan cheese and Calabrian chili present.


Quinn goes to work on the fantastic turbot course and its accompanying mortar 'n' pestle mojo.


22: WHOLE SPANISH TURBOT A LA PLANCHA | perfect blumenthals, mojo verde
2011 BIRICHINO MALVASIA BIANCA
And now we come to probably my favorite course of the meal, and most likely the strongest preparation of turbot I've had to date. The fish was cooked whole, and showed off a consistency that was quite unlike that of any other version I've experienced. The flesh was almost slightly rare, with a slick, delicate bite and restrained savor that worked beautifully with the zestiness of the accompanying mojo verde (a sauce oft seen with Canarian papas arrugadas). Finishing things off were some Heston Blumenthal-inspired potatoes that really were perfect: magnificently crunchy out the outside, yet with soft, pillow-y interiors and a mouth-watering kick of salt.


23: VERY WILD MUSHROOM RISOTTO | hedgehog, baby kings, abalone, yellow foot, black trumpet, persimmon
2010 PUZELAT-BONNHOMME "IN COT WE TRUST" MALBEC
We saw Max Hirsch back there working on something on the flat top for a good half-an-hour or so, and the result was this made-from-scratch risotto. It must be pointed out that the dish is rarely made this way in restaurants, but is instead prepared ahead of time: par-cooked, refrigerated, and then finished when necessary. It was a commendable risotto, with the earthy, nutty weight of the various ingredients proudly displayed, while the texture on the rice was properly firm, the whole course having a very pleasing "crunchiness" to it.


24: LAMB PORTERHOUSE ROLL | hatch chile, cumin, fancy cut baby veg, lime butter
2010 PUZELAT-BONNHOMME "IN COT WE TRUST" MALBEC
Chef Quinn described this next course as a "porterhouse porchetta" of New Zealand lamb, basically a preparation in which tenderloin is wrapped in belly and cooked. The meat was delicious, tender to the bite, with a wonderfully savory crust and a luxurious ovine relish. However, the smoky Hatch chile was too potent here, overwhelming and masking the lamb somewhat, though I did appreciate the lightness and crunch of the turnip and carrot.


The Chef took a moment to show off some über-marbled wagyu beef, from Kobe Prefecture, along with its accompanying certificate. I think that this was the first time in my experience that the oft-misused phrase "Kobe beef" would actually be appropriate.


25: A5+ KOBE BEEF NEW YORK STRIP LOIN | kobe fat -parmesan yorkshire pudding
2010 ERIC TEXIER, ST. JULIEN EN ST. ALBAN SYRAH
The evening's pièce de résistance was undoubtedly the beef, and what beef! It was everything that you'd expect from a proper wagyu steak: lush and luxurious, super tender, and practically oozing fat upon mastication. The melt-in-your-mouth strip loin displayed a rather profound depth to it, and was made even better by the countervailing astringency of its charred crust. The meat easily stood alone without any accompaniments, though the paired Yorkshire pudding was a nice touch, a homey sort of side that I found quite comforting.


26: FINCA PASCUELETE QUESO DE TORTA SINCE 1232 | blackberries stewed with black pepper, 3 day el bulli pistachios, toast
2010 ERIC TEXIER, ST. JULIEN EN ST. ALBAN SYRAH
Our cheese course was masterful, one of the best I can remember in fact. The key was the use of Finca Pascualete, an unpasteurized Spanish sheep's milk cheese that was wonderfully creamy and smooth, with a fantastic funk to it and just a touch of herbaceousness. I adored the queso alone, but the combination of the berries and pistachio took it over the top, providing a blend of sweet, nutty flavors that worked flawlessly against the pungency of the cheese.


27: CUCUMBER LIME BLAST
A palate cleanser before dessert brought a shot of cucumber and lime, the cool, refreshing, vegetal jolt of the former leading to the latter's strong, sour finish.


28: SUMO TANGERINE | olive oil ice cream
The first dessert comprised octagonal cuts of Sumo tangerine with olive oil, olive oil ice cream, and isomalt glass. The sweet, juicy citrus paired well enough with the olive oil ice cream, but I swear there must've been salt sprinkled on top or something, because the course veered overly savory for me.


Here, Rhett Butler presents Fernet Branca, humorously referred to around these parts as "Magic Juice," which was meant to serve as a sort of digestif.


29: LIME CURD | blueberries, graham, mouth sex
SIETE LEGUAS ANEJO TEQUILA
More successful was a jar of lime curd, its puckering tartness a fitting foil to the sugary berries, all while the graham cracker crumbles offered up a sweet textural element. The whipped cream (mouth sex?) provided a nice overarching levity to things as well. Pie-like.


For our final course, Ashley Guzman unleashes the contents of her iSi canister into a liquid nitrogen bath.


30: CHOCOLATE PISTACHIO TERRINE | nitro-dome, chocolate mousse, feullitine
MAGIC JUICE
The dinner ended on a high note thanks to a terrine of pistachio and chocolate, a delectable amalgam of sugary and nutty flavors that was beautifully highlighted by the crunchy bits of feullitine tossed into the mix. The "nitro-dome," meanwhile, was a fun addition, an uncommonly light, almost ethereal sphere of creamy goodness that imparted a palpable levity to the dessert.


At the end of the night, one of my dining companions requested to take home some of the real deal Kobe beef, and Chef Quinn obliged, cutting off a couple pieces of the strip loin and vacuum sealing them. The cost? A not unreasonable $240.


The IO by Playground team (left to right): Emily McMichael, Max Hirsch, Ashley Guzman, Jason Quinn, Ryan Carson, Rhett Butler.

I applaud what Chef Quinn and company are doing. It's obvious that the kitchen respects and celebrates the best-in-class ingredients that they're working with, and the cooking here embraces and highlights these products, using just enough technique in an attempt to bring our their best facets. The result is food that's simultaneously refined, yet casual, with a flashes of irreverence, rashness, and whimsy that's just what I expected from this crew. In fact, I was reminded of a less-modernist, more homegrown version of é by José Andrés, and indeed, when confronted with this thought, the Chef admitted that the restaurant was an inspiration. The Playground team has created something special here, but also something necessarily exclusive, which will infuriate some. Nonetheless, the food, the wine, the service, everything came together in stellar fashion tonight--an experience to behold. Not to be hyperbolic, but IO is the likely the most ambitious, and best restaurant that Orange County has ever seen.

Bouchon (Beverly Hills, CA) [3]

March 13, 2013, 7:15 pm

≫ Next: Shunji (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: IO by Playground (Santa Ana, CA)

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Ad Hoc Fried Chicken at Bouchon
235 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.271.9910
www.bouchonbistro.com
Mon 03/04/2013, 07:15p-10:25p



Fried chicken is just one of those things that--like risotto or uni--I just can't resist ordering when it's on a menu. And for the past several years, the version at Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc has served as my gold standard, a magnificent preparation of the bird that's pretty much the pinnacle of fried avian perfection in my eyes. I wasn't the only one smitten, and the chicken has turned into a thing of legend, even spawning its own do-it-yourself kit. Thus, I wasn't too surprised when it became a mainstay at Bouchon, popping up roughly once a month as the star of the show in always-packed fried chicken nights.


Now, just because it's poulet night at Bouchon, that doesn't mean the regular menu isn't available as well. We ended up doing the "ad hoc Fried Chicken, seasonal set" at $36 per person, with a couple of additional courses thrown in for good measure. Click for larger versions.


To wet our whistles, a bottle of bubbly was certainly called for, and we went with the Crémant de Bourgogne Rosé, Parigot & Richard MV [$60]. It was a fun, lively, easy-drinking sparkler to start, with a definite fruity sweetness to it and just a hint of countervailing minerality and yeast.


Pâté de Campagne [$14.50] | country style pâté with watercress, cornichons & radishes
A French country style pâté was right on the money, with the forcemeat showing off a rustic, gritty consistency and a boatload of pork-y goodness, enhanced with just enough liver-y edge. Lovely alone, and even better when contrasted by a dab of mustard and some pickles.


Choux de Bruxelles [$7.00] | Brussels sprouts with bacon lardons
Brussels, meanwhile, were spot on: unabashedly bright and bitter, with a wonderful char and a great hit of salt from the bacon.


Sommelier Alex Weil sent out a glass of Belgian Blonde Ale, Anderson Valley Brewing Co., "White Apron," CA [$6], a floral, spicy, effervescent pale ale that happens to be produced exclusively for Thomas Keller restaurants. Note that this replaces the previous "White Apron," which was Czech Pilsener brewed by Russian River.


Wedge Salad
The iceberg brought a welcomed levity to the meal, with the crisp shards of the lettuce forming a fitting base on which the lardons, tomato, and buttermilk dressing could really sing. Utterly straightforward, but undeniably effective.


Roasted Cauliflower
The cauliflower was prototypical in presentation, nicely done, but a touch on the soft side.


To go with our main course, we enjoyed a bottle of the Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine Marius Delarche, Les Combottes '11 [$76], a gift from a diner at another table. It was unmistakably white Burgundy in style, a tight, stony expression of Chardonnay that worked surprisingly well against the chicken.


Ad Hoc Fried Chicken
And now, we come to the evening's pièce de résistance, the much ballyhooed fried chicken. The bird is first brined in a lemon-herb mixture, then dredged in flour (with a mix of garlic powder, onion powder, paprika, cayenne, and Salt-n-Pepa), dipped in buttermilk, and then dredged in the coating once more before being fried. The end result of this effort was a delicious version of the American classic, with the rough, savory, delightfully crisp crust forming a fantastic complement to the tender, juicy, flavorful flesh within, all while the use of rosemary and thyme added a great herbaceous counterweight in the dish. I'd reach for the drumsticks first, but the white meat didn't give up much.


Biscuits & Gravy
Biscuits were firm and dense, a bit monolithic alone, but a great vessel to soak up the hearty, mouth-watering gravy.


Rhubarb & Strawberry Bread Pudding [$18.00] | for two
For dessert, we went with quite possibly the best bread pudding I'd ever eaten. Its consistency was just what I wanted, a blend of fluffy, dense, and luscious textures that were imbued with a fruity, sweet spice. It was delectable by itself, but the two mounds of tart, tangy ice cream on top just sealed the deal.


And finally, some macarons, in raspberry, green tea, PB&J, and vanilla flavors if I recall correctly.

Overall, we had a lovely evening. The food was on point, nothing too fancy, nothing that shows off, but straightforwardly satisfying dishes that hit the spot. As for the oft-lauded chicken, it didn't quite reach the majestic heights of the bird at Ad Hoc (I have my doubts that anything will), but was tasty and comforting nonetheless--a must-try for every fried chicken fiend out there.

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Shunji (Los Angeles, CA)

March 16, 2013, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Playa (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

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Shunji Japanese Cuisine
12244 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064
310.826.4737
www.shunji-ns.com
Sat 03/16/2013, 08:30p-12:35a





In recent years, one of the most exciting developments on the Japanese cuisine scene here in LA has been Shunji, the eponymous eatery from former Asanebo toque Shunji Nakao. The restaurant opened in February of last year, and since then, has developed quite a following, with diners and critics alike praising the Chef's complex, refined, omakase-style tasting menus, with a particular nod toward his facility with vegetables. The place is far more than your everyday sushi bar.

About the Chef: The Yokohama native began his culinary training in Japan during his teenage years, but moved to the United States in 1984. Here, he and his brother Tetsuya met none other than Nobu Matsuhisa, and the trio worked together for a number of years before they launched the original Matsuhisa in 1987. With Nobu's training under their belt, the Nakao brothers opened their own spot, Asanebo ("late riser"), in 1991. The kappo ryori-style eatery was slow to start, but eventually became one of the most widely lauded Japanese restaurants in LA. Shunji-san, however, left the spot in July 2000 to head up the kitchen at The Hump in Santa Monica, and would eventually relinquish his share in the venture. Interestingly enough, while cooking at there, he worked with Kiyoshiro Yamamoto, who's now at the superb Yamakase. Shunji-san left The Hump after several years, and his next stop was Tengu, an offshoot of the Westwood original that opened in January 2007. The restaurant never really caught on though, and after an ownership change, the place finally closed in December 2008.

Following the shutter, Shunji-san returned to Japan and opened a place in Tokyo. After a couple of years, he moved back to Los Angeles, this time debuting Shunji's on Melrose in January 2011. The more mainstream restaurant got off to a rocky start, and by July that year, the Chef had already split with his partner Cecil Hsu. The spot was renamed 7015 Sushi & Sake Bar, and continued to operate until just recently. Orphaned again, Shunji-san quickly snatched up the building that was occupied by Mr. Cecil's, a BBQ joint that closed that December. The self-titled Shunji Japanese Cuisine soft opened on February 23rd, 2012, and grand opened a week later on the 1st of March. Since then, the restaurant has garnered its share of praise, including being named one of the top 10 new sushi restaurants in the US by Bon Appetit, as well as one of the top 10 best new restaurants in LA by Los Angeles magazine.


The building that Shunji resides in started life in the Great Depression. Named Chili Bowl, it was, unsurprisingly, a chili-centric eatery actually modeled after its namesake dish, just one location of a mini-chain of restaurants across the Southland that folded in 1947. Afterwards, the building was used for a variety of purposes, including a bar and a Mexican restaurant called Pancho's, before becoming an outpost of Mr. Cecil's California Ribs in 2000. The restaurant, however, suffered a fire at the end of 2011, forcing its shutter before being transformed into Shunji. These days, you'll find seven tables in the circular part of the structure, while an eight-seater bar is off to one side. An interesting note: the bathrooms are outside and require the use of a key, just like my local Del Taco.


This menu at Shunji is a thing of consternation; I'm not sure about it, even after eating here. As far as I can tell, there's a fixed Sushi Special set at $50, plus a market-priced sushi omakase around $90, then a non-sushi Japanese Style Tasting at $100, and finally an omakase (with both sushi/sashimi and composed dishes) starting at $120. We requested an extended omakase, at a quoted price of $160pp, but ended up paying $200 a head given all the supplemental courses we tacked on. À la carte ordering is also possible, though I'd stick to the items listed on the chalkboard. Click for a larger version.


To drink, you'll find a sake list befitting the food, as well as a small selection of wines. Click for larger versions.


1: Baby Sea Eel
Baby sea eel reminded me a bit of squid, with its tender, yet somewhat snappy texture and subtle brine, balanced by the vinegar-y tartness and slight savoriness (one of my dining companions guessed katsuobushi) of the accompanying liquid.


2: Firefly Squid with Beans
Sparkling squid (hotaru ika) were delightful, with a fantastic consistency and a sweet salinity that contrasted beautifully against the bright, crunchy beans.


Given the subtlety of Shunji-san's food, sake forms a natural complement, and we went with a bottle of the Ichigo [$80] junmai ginjyo to start. This is actually a sake that the Chef helped brew, and is exclusive to the restaurant. It was a smart pairing to the cooking, medium in body and nicely balanced, aromatic and refreshing, with a good interplay between the rice-y and floral notes present.


3: Oyster in Potato Soup
A singular Hama Hama oyster arrived sitting in a potage of potato and napa cabbage. It tasted of the ocean, with an intensity that was subsequently moderated by the gritty, mildly sweet porridge.


4: Shirako Tofu
Shirako (fish milt) was made into a rough tofu form, its fine-spun salinity balanced by the depth and piquancy of the ponzu jelly "iris."


5: Sashimi
A straightforward sashimi course brought us three varieties of fish. The first was needlefish, a firm specimen conveying a marked brininess that paired swimmingly with a dab of that freshly-grated wasabi. The shiokko (baby kanpachi), meanwhile, was delicate and firm, with a fishy intensity that was brought out by the application of soy. Last up was the bluefin tuna, soft, sticky, and full-flavored--tasty alone and even better with the various accompaniments.


6: Bonito and Ginger
Beautiful slices of dark-toned katsuo came to us paired with ginger, onion, and ponzu. It was a lovely combination, with the zestiness of the ginger moderating the fish in stellar fashion, all while the onion added a fantastic crunchiness to the dish.


Our second sake was the Born Gold [$70], an aged junmai daiginjyo from Fukui Prefecture's Katoukichibee Shouten. It was quite to our liking as well, with a soft, sweet viscosity and multifaceted complexity to it that made this one an easy drinker.


7: Arugula Salad with Lobster, Blue Cheese, Asian Pears & Beets
Shunji-san took a departure from Japan with this next course. The excursion was largely a success, with the lobster arriving fresh and true-to-form, albeit a touch chewy. The crustacean's sweetness was masterfully played against the bright, bitter arugula flowers, while the blue cheese added a fantastic integrating element to the dish.


8: Seasonal Quintet
Five little bites assembled on one plate comprised our next course. Moving right to left, we began with a globule of monkfish liver, probably the closest thing to foie gras we can get these days. It was a great presentation of ankimo, with its mild, earthy, ocean-y nuances melding superbly with the salty hit of caviar. A ball of potato and blue cheese came topped with persimmon, and was an interesting experiment, with the restraint of the potato gradually leading to the intensity of the cheese on the close. Third was an amalgam of shiitake and okara tofu, wrapped in prosciutto, its airy, delicate savoriness set off by the saltiness of the ham. A skewer of ginkgo nut and crab was about what you'd expect, a fitting prelude to the star of the show here, Shunji-san's oft-lauded dish of pitch black squid. It's basically shredded raw ika dyed with its own ink, truffle, uni, and raw quail egg. We were instructed to eat the squid by itself first, and thoroughly enjoyed the supple juliennes of the cephalopod, its quintessence merging gorgeously with the heady notes of truffle present. Break the yolk, and you get an additional layer of luxuriousness and lightness that seemed to integrate the dish further.


9: Grilled Bamboo with Seaweed Sauce & Uni
It's bamboo season, and Shunji-san was quick to show off the ingredient in this course. The bamboo was uncommonly crunchy, with a light, vegetal taste that was contrasted against the creamy, rich depth of the seaweed and uni combo.


Time for more sake, this time the limited edition Gensai [$220], a daiginjyo from Suehiro Sake Brewery in Fukushima Prefecture. This one was yet another winner, though perhaps a bit more serious than the preceding two sakes, with a fruity character set against the slightest whispers of dry alcoholic heat. I loved the sake's fancy wooden presentation box as well, which one of my dining companions took home.


10: Agedashi Tomato Tofu
We were then treated to the Chef's signature dish, his so-called "tomato tofu" that he invented during his Tokyo tenure. It's not tofu at all, but rather the innards of tomato, compressed and solidified with kuzuko and lightly fried. The texture really was something special, actually recalling tofu, while the flavor was sweet and tangy, dutifully offset by the dashi-based broth and the heat of the shishito pepper.


11: Grilled Yellowtail
Hamachi was marinated in yuzu and soy, then simply grilled, its firm flesh showing off a good amount of fat and flavor that was nicely set off by the bitter char. To balance out the gravity of the dish, the Chef included a yamamomo, or mountain peach, which provide a sweet, tart counterpoint in the course.


12: Steamed Black Cod with Porcini Mushroom, Napa Cabbage & Mountain Potato in Dashi Broth
The last course before the gauntlet of sushi was a hot and hearty soup featuring black cod. The fish itself was slick and supple, with a lushness that melded well with the heady depth of the broth. Grated yamaimo added an interesting textural element to the dish, but the crux here was the hakusai cabbage, which lent a profound lightness and crunch that managed to temper the otherwise intense flavors at play.


13: Red Bass / Akaisaki
Our first item of sushi brought us red grouper that had been treated with kelp through the kobujime process. The result was a drier, meatier texture on the fish, with a more concentrated, umami-laced taste that paired gorgeously here with the heat of wasabi and a hint of pepper.


The final sake of the evening was the Ken [$125], a daiginjyo that happens to be the little brother of the Gensai above. I'm not surprised that it came from the same family tree, as this one also displayed a delicious melon-y character, with a touch more rice (probably due to the higher seimaibuai) and a refreshing crispness on the close.


14: Grouper / Hata
Grouper was another rare treat: clean, slick, and eminently balanced, with a great finish.


15: Japanese Mackerel / Aji
Mackerel was firm and crunchy, with a surprisingly restrained fishiness that was deftly offset by a brushing of soy.


16: White Shrimp / Shiro Ebi
Out came white shrimp, which I'd only had previously at Urasawa. The mass of tiny crustaceans was salty and soft, breaking apart upon mastication.


17: Salmon Roe / Ikura
I'm usually not terribly keen on salmon roe, but the version here was one of the best I've had. Marinated with dashi, the globules were cool and briny, with a lovely pop to 'em and a great counterweight in the form of the sushi's seaweed wrapper.


18: Flying Fish / Tobiuo
Flying fish is oft used for its roe, which is known as tobiko. Its meat is far less common, which is unfortunate, as it makes for a lovely sushi fish, with a refreshing character emphasized by the use of yuzu and wasabi.


19: Amberjack / Kanpachi
The kanpachi was a prototypical example of the varietal, mild tasting and firm, with its flavor brought out with a dab of soy.


20: Golden Eye Snapper / Kinmedai
The kinmedai was one of my favorites here given its light sear, which imparted a fantastic smoky character to the fish.


21: Tuna Belly / Toro
Toro was fatty and oily, though not ridiculously so, with a melty consistency and a rich, satisfying taste.


22: Shrimp / Ebi
Shrimp was sourced from Papua New Guinea of all places. When it comes to sushi, I'm usually more of a fan of raw shrimp, but this was about as good as it gets for a cooked preparation. Great texture on this one, with the essence of the botan ebi nicely preserved.


23: Barracuda / Kamasu
Barracuda was another highlight of the sushi portion of the meal, with a slight sweetness that paired wonderfully with the charring on the fish. Unfortunately, there was only enough for three portions, so each piece of nigiri had to be cut in half.


24: Sea Urchin / Uni
Some in my party were clamoring for uni, so Shunji-san obliged with these Santa Barbara specimens: creamy, cool, and tasting of the ocean, though slightly bitter, with a great counterpoint from the nori.


25: Whitefin Trevally / Kaiwari
The kaiwari was a first for me, but hopefully not a last. It was a standout for its texture, which was firm, crunchy, and slightly chewy, with an almost engawa-esque bite to it.


26: Salmon / Sake
Salmon was quite lovely, with a delightful savoriness to it amped up by the saltiness of the crisp strip of skin still attached. Nice citrus kick on this one, too.


27: Fried Shrimp Heads
The heads from the shrimp above were deep fried and brought out to the bar. They were fantastic, as good as any preparation I've had.


28: Baby Abalone / Nagareko
Abalone was also satisfying, as we really got to enjoy its texture. I much appreciated the band of seaweed here, which added a nice accent point to the course.


29: King Squid / Aori Ika
Squid was sticky and palate coating, with a restrained taste that formed a fitting base on which the salt and pepper could shine.


Ika Somen
At this point, one of my dining companions asked if Shunji-san could prepare a dish of ika somen, and this was the result. Sadly, I didn't actually manage to grab a bite.


30: Mikan Shot
Serving as an intermezzo was a sweet shot of mikan juice.


31: Chocolate Mousse, Grapefruit Sorbet, Lemon Ice Cream
Dessert comprised three different treats. The chocolate mousse was the heaviest of the troika, with a smoothness and creaminess to it that was belied by a strong taste of cocoa powder. My favorite was the grapefruit sorbet, which conveyed the bracing bitterness of the fruit in commanding fashion. The lemon ice cream, finally, was also successful, with a great balance between sweet and sour elements.


32: Hojicha
To close: a hot cup of tea. Comforting


Chef Shunji Nakao (right) and his team.

I'm proud to report that Shunji has joined the pantheon of Los Angeles Japanese restaurants occupied by the likes of Yamakase, n/naka, and Urasawa. The Chef's composed dishes display refinement and technique, but at the same time a willingness to experiment and venture outside the bounds of tradition. The sushi section of the meal, meanwhile, was also top notch, with a selection of fish that one rarely sees in the Southland. The overall effect is an intimate, memorable experience that is an absolute must-try for fans of Japanese cooking. It seems that, after years of false starts, Shunji-san has finally found himself.

Playa (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

March 21, 2013, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Rustic Canyon (Santa Monica, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Shunji (Los Angeles, CA)

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Playa Restaurant
7360 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.933.5300
www.playarivera.com
Wed 03/06/2012, 07:30p-09:45p





When John Sedlar's Playa first debuted two years ago, it was hailed as a more casual, more of-the-moment version of the Chef's flagship Rivera. Situated inside the building that once housed Neal Fraser's Grace, it featured a more laid back interpretation of Sedlar's pan-Latin cooking, centered around beach-y themes and Baja California. I quite liked it, and the restaurant garnered its share of critical acclaim as well, but for some reason, I guess it simply never caught on--just not the right fit for the neighborhood I suppose. I think a lot of us were surprised when the place announced its closure on March 4th, especially with regard to how quickly the shutter was happening, just two days later. Given the prominence of Playa, a revisit on the last night of service was certainly called for.


The menu had been revamped in recent months, with Chef Sedlar adding a number of Chinese-Mexican fusion dishes, ostensibly a result of a trip to Chinesca, Mexicali's Chinatown (the largest of its kind in the country, started by Cantonese immigrants brought in to build Valle de Mexicali's irrigation system). Just as we did on opening night, we planned on ordering the entire menu, a feat made significantly easier due to the fact that 7 of the 19 savory courses had run out! Cocktails were a must naturally, and we made sure to run the gamut there as well. Click for larger versions.


CIELO VERDE GAZPACHO SALAD CONE [$9.00] | cucumber / tomato / jalafuego & padron chiles / avocado / garlic petals
Dinner commenced with a trio of "Baja Cones," the first of which featured some produce from the rooftop garden. The bite did recall the essence of gazpacho, though there was a distinct guacamole character to it as well. No matter, the cone worked it out, with the crisp brightness of the veggies proudly conveyed.


HAMACHI TARTARE CONE [$13.00] | yellowtail / black cobra chiles / pac choi salad / miso / sesame oil / black sesame seeds
Yellowtail was rather tasty, arriving to the table enrobed in deep, dark, Asian-y nuances courtesy of the miso, though the fish could've been a touch more apparent on the palate. I found the savory crunch of the cone especially key in this presentation.


CHINESCA CHICKEN SALAD CONE [$10.00] | pulled roast chicken / toasted almonds / ginger / pac choi / napa cabbage / rice vinegar-chile dressing
The last cone was my favorite of the threesome. In fact, it just might've been the best chicken salad I've ever had, with the hefty weight of the bird beautifully paired with its various accompaniments, and the vinegar-chile dressing adding a tart, overarching element that tied everything together.


Baja Rickey [$12.00] | 4 year aged white rum, benedictine, fresh lime, angostura, tamarind soda
Anejo Honey Sour [$8.00] | tequila, honey, lemon, flamed grapefruit
Chili Limon [$10.00] | aged rum, islay scotch, fresh lime, caramelized pineapple syrup, piment d'espellette
Our first round of cocktails started with the Baja Rickey, which I actually thought was overly sugary (I imagine from the tamarind), though the drink did have a sort of refreshing astringency on the close. The Anejo Honey Sour was more to my liking, with the tequila clearly the star of the show in the drink, deftly contrasted by the sweet and sour notes of the honey and lemon--nicely integrated. The Chili Limon was also a winner, with the smoky Islay nose transitioning gorgeously to the sweet, tart, boozy base of the drink, all while the finish gave us long, lingering notes of smoke.


POTSTICKERS PUERCO PIBIL [$9.00] | roasted pineapple salsa / pipián verde
Pot stickers were nice enough, imbued with the heady weight of the puerco, though I'm not sure if the meat was highlighted in the best way possible. That being said, I appreciated the lingering spice to the dish, and the brightness of the pineapple did serve as a nice counterpoint in the course.


PIQUILLOS RELLENOS [$9.00] | black beans / caramelized onion / piloncillo / chipotles
Stuffed peppers turned out to be a table favorite, the cheesy, charred, smoky combo of Fontina and Gruyère working in unison with the sweet flavors of the piquillo. We actually ended up ordering another round of these toward the end of dinner.


TACOS JAVIER PLASCENCIA [$11.00] | swordfish achiote / ensalada alta tijuana / guac
Here, Sedlar pays homage to Javier Plascencia's famed swordfish pibil tacos. The fish itself arrived smoky and savory from the achiote, while the pairing of guacamole and red onion added a well-placed burst of color and levity to the dish.


KUNG-PAO CAMARONES [$16.00] | rooster beak chiles / cacahuate salsa / bean sprouts
Sedlar's riff on the ubiquitous kung-pao was another highlight of the meal. This shrimp were nicely done, not overcooked and still snappy, and went superbly with the classically Chinese nuances in the dish. I loved the creeping undercurrent of spice here, and the bean sprouts offered up a delightful crunch and lightness to the mix.


5 Spice Sangrita [$12.00] | blanco tequila back, lime, orange, pomegranate, chinese 5 spice
Gold Rush [$8.00] | bourbon, honey, lemon
Beer and a Ball [$10.00] | campari, aperol, grapefruit, sage, lime, beer
Round #2 of drinks brought us a two-parter in the form of the 5 Spice Sangrita, which paired Espolon blanco against a savory, spicy, jammy concoction that actually worked well when consumed with the liquor; one of my dining companions compared the effect to an "alcoholic Fruit Roll-Up." The Gold Rush, meanwhile, was quite familiar, with the interplay between honey and lemon forming a classic companion to the whiskey. Finally, we had the Beer and a Ball, a refreshing cocktail that proudly showed off the bittersweet character of Aperol and Campari while conveying the crisp effervescence of Miller High Life (yes, you read that right).


TAMAL CHIPOTLE [$15.00] | wild-mushroom corn masa dumpling / sliced filet mignon / chipotle béarnaise / watercress
Interestingly enough, I thoroughly enjoyed this dish the first time I had it, but it ended up falling short this evening. The steak was fine, tender and beefy as you'd expect, and the earthy masa made sense too. However, the chipotle béarnaise dominated the dish, effectively overwhelming most of the other flavors at play.


AREPAS BARRIO [$13.00] | corn cakes / pork belly / jalafuego chiles / charred green onions / queso panela
Arepas weren't exactly models of finesse, but were tasty nonetheless, with the pork belly pairing well with the smoky, cheesy components in the dish, all while the corn cakes grounded the course.


PASTRAMI TACOS [$10.00] | blue corn shells / pastrami / sauerkraut / ballpark mustard
Pastrami tacos were as good as they sound, with the supple, mouth-watering slices of meat pairing flawlessly with the tangy shreds of sauerkraut and pepper present.


CHORROS AL VAPOR [$13.00] | vapor-cooked mussels / charred tomatillo-serrano salsa / longaniza sausage / avocado / grilled rustic toast
Playa's mussels are known throughout the land, and for good reason, as they were utterly fantastic. The bivalves were spot on: firm, yet supple and snappy, with a subtle brine that paired beautifully with the smoky, savory broth. The bits of longaniza tossed in were an added bonus, and served as the icing on the cake in this perfect mussels dish. Not only did we ask for more bread to sop up the remaining liquid with, we drank it straight from the bowl.


Jane's Addiction [$12.00] | vodka, manzanilla sherry, fresh lemon, angostura, lemon peel, seltzer
Opium Cocktail [$8.00] | tequila, plum wine, champagne, lemon
The Cold Open [$12.00] | tea infused scotch, smith & cross rum, jamaican rum, tiki bitters, sugar
Our last set of cocktails got off to a good start with the Jane's Addiction, an eminently balanced drink that perfectly blended the contrasting elements present; I especially enjoyed the finish, redolent of sherry. The Opium Cocktail was less successful, putting forth a sour, acidic, astringent character that was rather harsh on the palate. Finally, we had The Cold Open, a delicious cocktail that married the aromatics of tea with a combo of whiskey and rum, all while the sugar and bitters added a sweet-spicy veil to the drink--nice!


XINJIANG ALMOND GELATIN FRUIT SALAD [$8.00] | cactus pear / asian pear / buddha's hand lemon syrup / almond galleta
Dessert kicked off with a dish that reminded me of the almond jelly you get at Chinese restaurants, but a bit more interesting and multifaceted, with the mild taste of the gelatin balancing out the sugary smack of the prickly and nashi pears.


NIEVES CHINE [$8.00] | chinese ice creme / latin french sorbet
Sorbets arrived with a distinct Asian-y influence to them. I believe I tasted ginger and even suan mei.


MEXICO CITY SUNDAE [$10.00] | vanilla ice cream / habanero caramel / passion fruit / blue cornmeal cookie
We ended with a simple sundae, which I actually quite enjoyed, the lush, creamy, and unabashedly sweet contents of that Mason jar given a jolt by a touch of habanero caramel.

Diners, including myself, seemed to be pretty happy with Playa, but from what I gather, the investors in the place weren't quite as thrilled, and it probably just wasn't a hit financially. A shame really. As for what's next, the space will remain in the Bill Chait family of restaurants, and John Sedlar will still be involved in the next incarnation, though Chef de Cuisine Kevin Luzande is out, probably to start his own solo project (fingers crossed that it involves his native Filipino food). They're taking a few weeks to retool, but given the short timeframe, I don't expect drastic changes to the interior, but I do hear that the Cielo Verde rooftop garden will be more integral to whatever's taking over the spot.

Rustic Canyon (Santa Monica, CA) [2]

March 25, 2013, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: The Royce Wood-Fired Steakhouse (Pasadena, CA)

≪ Previous: Playa (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

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Rustic Canyon Restaurant
1119 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.393.7050
www.rusticcanyonwinebar.com
Tue 03/12/2013, 07:45p-10:20p



Since debuting at the end of 2006, Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan's Rustic Canyon has firmly established itself as one of the top restaurants in Santa Monica, mostly under the tutelage of Chef Evan Funke. Funke, however, left early last year to pursue his own solo project: Bucato in the old Beacon space in Culver City. Rustic was without a head chef for a few months before Jeremy Strubel (Momed, Public, Libertine) took the reins in June 2012. He ended up decamping this January though, and is now working at Italian newbie Sirena. Strubel's replacement came as a bit of a surprise: none other than Food & Wine Best New Chef and former Ubuntu frontman Jeremy Fox.

For those of you who haven't been able to keep up with Fox's whereabouts post-Ubuntu, here's a brief recap:

His tumultuous departure from the veggie-centric restaurant came in February 2010, amidst a divorce from the place's lauded Pastry Chef, Deanie Hickox (Plum, Coi, Manresa). In April that year, he cooked a one-off dinner at James Syhabout's Commis (the two worked together at Manresa), then gave Angelenos a taste of his talents at a sold-out dinner at Animal in May. From there, Fox quickly secured a position at Daniel Patterson's soon-to-open Plum in Oakland, with plans to lend his skills to Bracina and whatever other projects Patterson had in mind. They got as far as serving practice dinners at Il Cane Rosso in the Ferry Building, but Fox would leave by August, replaced by Charlie Parker. After participating in a "fire dinner" with Joshua Skenes (highlighting Saison's wood-burning hearth), he landed a gig as the Creative Director for Tyler Florence's restaurant group in October, and became a partner in Florence's Rotisserie & Wine in Napa, with responsibility for his other properties El Paseo and Wayfare Tavern as well.

Though his post was certainly promising, Fox left in February 2011, around the same time announcing a cookbook project (Seed to Stalk: A Modern Culinary Handbook by Phaidon), its concomitant Yountville garden (started in partnership with wine maker Ryan Hill and French Laundry gardener Peter Jacobsen), and a series of pop-up dinners. The first of those pop-ups took place on March 28th, set inside Dominique Crenn's eponymous Atelier Crenn. That was followed up by a multi-day stint at Saison in June (where he was joined by Ari Taymor's mentor Kim Alter and Top Chef's Eli Kirshtein), as well as a night at Orson in August. It was during this period that Fox announced that he was searching for a location to house a veggie-focused eatery called Smith. That never came to fruition, however, and the Chef ended up moving to Los Angeles later that year, settling in Los Feliz.

In November 2011, Fox was reunited with Manresa compatriot Charlie Parker when he began consulting at Freddy Smalls, though he ceased his involvement after the place's opening in December, and also started looking for a spot on the East Side to house the aforementioned Smith concept. The next May, he commenced a brief consulting gig at Paper or Plastik, and then announced the intention to sell a line of lavender-scented almonds at Cube Cafe & Marketplace under the Fox Fine Foods label. In July, word came about Barnyard, a restaurant in Venice where Fox would be partner and Executive Chef. It was an exciting announcement, and in October he even teased his menu during a night at the latest iteration of Test Kitchen at Bestia.

However, the following month, the Chef gave news of his departure from the project, much to our dismay; it was ostensibly a result of a falling-out with management, and he was soon replaced by Jesse Barber of The Tasting Kitchen. With Barnyard out of the picture, Fox partnered with Helen Springut and Helena Brown's culinary incubator this is not a pop-up to launch Old Soul, a weekly dinner series set inside Square One Dining in Hollywood. The trio actually managed to stay together long enough to host a number of events last December, but plans to return in January 2013 were foiled when Fox pulled out of the uneasy alliance and moved to Rustic Canyon in February. It's been a busy three years.


Chef Fox has definitely put his mark on the menu here at Rustic Canyon, with perhaps the legendary burger and the cheese plate being the sole holdouts. Things are arguably a touch less rustic as a result, but the place's seasonal Cal-Med vibe remains intact. Click for a larger version.


To start, what else but the restaurant's signature plate of olives?


potato croquettes [$7.00] | romesco & aioli
Croquettes were just as you'd expect, with crisp exteriors hiding soft, pillow-y insides imbued with a straightforward savoriness. They key here was that romesco, an elegant version of the sauce that offered a piquant counterpoint to the fritters.


gougeres: baked cheese puffs [$7.00] | with mornay sauce & bacon
Gougères arrived looking like miniature baked potatoes, which I'm not sure was intentional or not. You can't wander too astray with these: delightful puffs of melty, cheese-y goodness interspersed with salty bits of bacon.


fat uncle farms almonds [$6.00] | lavender sugar & sea salt
We were then provided a bowl of Fox's signature lavender-laced almonds, which I'd first encountered at Ubuntu (Marconas were used back then). They were just as good as I remember, a lovely back-and-forth between both salty and floral nuances, all over the crunchy backdrop of the nut.


To drink, one of my dining companions was in the mood for syrah, so we asked our server to pick out something. He ended up with the 2009 Whitcraft Syrah Stolpman Vineyard [$80], a limited production (~200 cases), biodynamic bottling from the Santa Ynez Valley. It really was quite amazing, probably the best California Syrah I've had in fact: unquestionably smooth and easy-drinking, yet not banal, with loads of jammy dark fruit and an undercurrent of smoky-spice to go along with a pleasant tartness.


berkshire pork belly [$16.00] | crispy fingerlings, sauce gribiche
Moving on to some more substantial courses now, we had here Fox's version of the requisite pork belly dish. The pork itself showed off a great crispness, with a lovely blend of lean and fat, and I really appreciated the lightness imparted by the greenery, as well as that tangy dressing of gribiche. However, the potatoes were almost too savory here, stealing some of the belly's thunder in effect.


clam & mussel pozole [$15.00] | rancho gordo hominy, green garlic
My favorite course of the night came in the form of pozole, which just might've been the best version of the stew I've ever had. The combo of mussels and clam provided a superb undercurrent of brine to the course, and were great texturally, especially in contrast to the firm kernels of corn. Add to that the bright, verdant flavors of the broth and the crunchy bits on top, and you get a perfectly balanced dish that I wanted to just keep eating.


Next, we tried a new dish that Chef Fox was toying with, composed of country toast topped with Capriole's Sofia goat cheese and onion jam, doused in a chicken consommé. I got a lot of the sweet onion initially here, which then merged, seemingly out of nowhere, with a slight funkiness from the cheese toward the end, all over the base of heady chicken broth and moderating toast. There were some really cool flavor transitions going on, though the bread did get a bit soggy.


stracciatella di burrata [$14.00] | sprouting broccoli, bottarga, lemon
One dish that wowed me was Fox's version of sprouting broccoli, my favorite presentation of the ingredient to date. The crisp, bright, bitter goodness of the veggie was proudly conveyed, masterfully complemented by the weighty bottarga and luxurious dollop of burrata, while the icing on the cake was the dish's subtle, creeping spice.


amberjack crudo [$16.00] | local kieffer lime, mandarins, turkish pepper
Amberjack arrived fresh 'n' clean, supple to the bite and imbued with an overarching sourness courtesy of the kaffir. The sweet, succulent segments of mandarin worked out beautifully here, though I'm not sure if I liked the Turkish pepper or not. It added an interesting spicy counterpoint that seemed to highlight certain qualities of the fish.


Blood and Sand [$14.00] | Stronachie Single Malt Scotch, blood orange juice, Leopold's Cherry liqueur, Byrrh Quinquina
Previously, Rustic Canyon was a beer & wine only type of place, but since my last visit, they've acquired a full liquor license, hence the cocktails. I started with the Blood and Sand, a great choice, showing off a flawless integration between the scotch and the cherry, all tarted up by the sweet, spicy zing of the Byrrh. Wonderfully balanced, and super easy drinking.


wild steelhead [$27.00] | anson mills farro verde
Moving on to mains now, we began with some last-of-the-season steelhead. The trout was cooked perfectly, slightly rare, yet crispy on the outside, with a delightful salinity to it. I wouldn't have minded eating it alone, but the farro and associated greenery definitely made sense as a counterweight in the dish.


weiser's pee-wee potatoes [$9.00] | cooked in roasted chicken drippings
Pee-wee potatoes were about what you'd expect, heart and filling, though I would've liked some more chicken character to have permeated the taters.


We then sampled a homemade morcilla that Chef Fox was working on, served with rhubarb and turnip. It was one of the best blood sausages I've eaten, though not necessarily what I was expecting with morcilla, coming out more along the lines of a boudin noir, displaying a soft, supple consistency and a restrained, though still properly earthy savor. The sweetness of the rhubarb worked out here, as did the bitterness of the turnip, though texturally there could've been something more, something tempering with a bit of crunch.


The Loeber [$14.00] | Johnny Drum Green Label Bourbon, fresh lemon, Wild Flower honey syrup, fresh blackberry puree
Named after co-owner Josh Loeb, The Loeber was another great addition to the cocktail program. The Bourbon formed a superb base here, with its boozy weight balanced by the sweet honey and sour lemon, all while the blackberry contributed a delightful fruity edge to the drink.


caramelized brussels sprouts [$9.00] | apple agrodolce
Brussels sprouts were right on the money, flawless in texture, with a great mix of sweet and sour flavors to go against the bitterness of the vegetable. In fact, one of my dining companions stated that this was her favorite preparation of Brussels, ever.


roasted chicken [$26.00] | young carrots, french curry, 'delfino' cilantro
We were told that this was the Chef's favorite main course, and with good reason. The bird came out tender and moist, almost teeming with juice in fact, with a spot on chicken-y flavor that paired masterfully with the curry (which I was afraid would be overwhelming). The cilantro, meanwhile, added a great herby whisper to the dish that served as a fantastic accent piece.


sesame honey cake [$10.00] | crème fraiche whipped cream, bill's bees honeycomb
Desserts here at Rustic Canyon are the charge of Pastry Chef Laurel Almerinda, and we went with a trio of her creations to end the meal with. The cake above showed off a delectable sesame flavor, offset by the sweetness of honey, but was on the dry side. Fortunately, the whipped cream helped with that, and added a certain lightness to the dish to boot.


banana chocolate shell bowl [$6.00] | scoop of banana ice cream, chocolate shell, torched banana
Banana ice cream conveyed the pure, unmitigated essence of the fruit, its sweetness melding well with its chocolate-y sheath, while the caramelized slices added even more sugary goodness. A must for the banana fiends out there.


maple pot de creme [$10.00] | vanilla whipped cream, maple syrup
To end, a lush, luxurious pot de crème of maple custard gave us a satisfying sweetness to pair against the whipped cream. Can't go wrong with this.

Under the guidance of Jeremy Fox, Rustic Canyon appears to be as strong as ever. The food's definitely imbued with his style now, and perhaps veers less toward rustic, but possesses a more venturesome quality to it. It's not necessarily better or worse than what his predecessors put out, but different, and quite to my liking. The Chef isn't known for staying in one place too long (as witnessed in the considerable movement described in the introductory paragraphs above), so hopefully his tenure here lasts a while. I'd go check the restaurant out quickly though, just in case Kosher Pig (with Cube buyer Rachael Sheridan) comes to fruition.

The Royce Wood-Fired Steakhouse (Pasadena, CA)

March 28, 2013, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: The Hart and The Hunter (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Rustic Canyon (Santa Monica, CA) [2]

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The Royce Steakhouse
1401 S Oak Knoll Ave, Pasadena, CA 91106
626.585.6410
www.roycela.com
Thu 03/28/2013, 07:30p-11:15p



One of the more unfortunate shutters in recent times has been that of The Royce, the flagship restaurant at Pasadena's Langham hotel. Ever since opening at the end of 2010, the place had been one of my favorite spots in the Southland thanks to Chef David Feau's elegant, sophisticated cooking. However, I suppose the cuisine never really resonated with the area's demographic, and the restaurant ended up closing on January 26th, much to my disappointment. In its place comes a new incarnation of The Royce, this time a steakhouse that's ostensibly much better suited to the hotel's target clientele. This new concept debuted on March 15th, and is helmed by none other than Chef Anthony Zappola of Craft fame.

About the Chef: Raised in Cleveland, Ohio, Chef Zappola got his start in the industry at age 15, working at an Italian restaurant in his hometown where he worked his way up from a dishwasher position. From there, he cooked at a number of local eateries before deciding to go to culinary school. Zappola attended classes at the Scuola di Arte Culinaria Cordon Bleu in Florence, Italy for nine months, then began a year-long program at Le Cordon Bleu London in 2000. After graduating in 2001, he moved back to the States and found employment in Chicago, and then New York. In July 2004, he started at Tom Colicchio's Craft, making his way up to the post of Sous Chef in charge of private dining.

Zappola then moved to Texas in the middle of 2006, where he opened Craft Dallas as Executive Sous Chef. A couple years later, he was promoted to Chef de Cuisine after the departure of Kevin Maxey, but would leave in May 2009 to take the reins at Craft Los Angeles, replacing Matt Accarrino (now at SPQR in SF). Zappola's Pastry Chef, Shannon Swindell, would also leave Dallas for LA, taking over for Catherine Schimenti. His tenure at Craft lasted until the end of 2010, and the Chef spent a couple years under the radar (which included an unpublicized stint at Animal) until re-emerging earlier this year at The Royce, where he's joined by David Feau's old Sous Chef Perry Pollaci as well as new General Manager Matt Nathanson.


The Royce's new steakhouse menu is fairly par for the course given the genre, and focuses on high-end cuts cooked on an Aztec wood-fired grill that burns white oak and other sundry timber. À la carte is the way to go here, though it is possible to arrange a special tasting at the Chef's Table (normally used for communal seating) as we did. Click for larger versions.


The bread selection consisted of gougère, olive, and whole wheat sourdough varieties, paired with a nice butter.


OYSTERS [$3.00/each] | On the half shell
Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Ste. Claire, Chablis, 2011
Oysters come in three varieties here, and we had to try all of 'em, natch. In raw form, we had Kusshis, one of my favorites, and they were prototypical of the style: clean, crisp, and oh-so briny.


OYSTERS [$3.00/each] | from the wood-grill
Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Ste. Claire, Chablis, 2011
Crystal Bay oysters arrived lightly grilled, with the smoky, charred flavors from the cooking process forming a fitting balance to the oysters' inherent salinity.


OYSTERS [$3.00/each] | Gratin
Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine Ste. Claire, Chablis, 2011
Finally, we had Misty Bay oysters, a hot, heartier presentation that married the natural flavors of the bivalves with a hit of rich, savory, vegetal nuances from the dish's au gratin topping.


STEAK TARTARE [$16.00] | tabasco vinaigrette
Chateau Clarettes, Côtes de Provence Rose, 2010
The quintessential steak tartar was done proud here. The meat itself was spot on in terms of texture, and melded beautifully with the pickle-y bits incorporated within. Even better, though, was the use of Tabasco, which added a jolt of heat that lingered long into the finish. The included potato chips were a nice touch, too. A must-try as far as the appetizers go.


WAGYU BEEF CARPACCIO [$18.00] | spicy radishes
Chateau Clarettes, Côtes de Provence Rose, 2010
A carpaccio was made from beef cured in-house for three days, and was surely one of the best preparations of the dish I've had, putting forth a definite gravity and meatiness that I found quite satisfying. The kick of the olive oil made sense here too, tying together some of the flavors, while the greenery on the plate provided some bright, bitter counterpoints to the heft of the beef. Loved the accompanying bread here as well, which came toasted on the wood grill.


MARYLAND CRAB CAKE [$18.00] | sumac, roasted lemon yogurt
Chateau Clarettes, Côtes de Provence Rose, 2010
I've still yet to find a crab cake that surpasses the one at Gulfstream, a damn shame given that Gulfstream is such a corporate-y type of chain restaurant. The version here tonight was good, but again, still didn't reach the lofty level I was hoping for. The sweet, saline essence of crab was there, though unfortunately its impact was lessened by the fried outer batter. That being said, the dish still worked, with the yogurt and sumac providing a tart, tangy balance to the fritter.


A pair of poussins were brought out tableside before being taken back to the kitchen to be carved and plated.


COLORADO RACK OF LAMB [$58.00] | vadouvan jus
Mollydooker, "The Boxer", Shiraz, South Australia, 2011
A rack of lamb arrived deftly prepared: tender and definitely "lamb-y," with a good hint of char goodness and a mélange of sweet and spicy notes from the vadouvan.


HAWAIIAN PRAWNS [$28.00] | candied peanuts, chilies
Argyle, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2011
Taste-wise, the prawns were on point, showing off an appealing salinity to them. However, texturally, I wanted them snappier, springier, with more of a bite. The greens did work here gorgeously though, imparting a fantastic bitterness and whisper of char to the dish.


WHOLE ROASTED ORGANIC POUSSIN [$26.00] | kumquats, rosemary jus
Argyle, Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2011
At this point, the aforementioned poussin arrived at our table. Though it was basically a small chicken, it was quite unlike your typical preparation of the bird. The poussin conveyed a pretty remarkable depth of flavor to it, along with flesh that was firm, taut, and dense to the bite.


SEA ISLAND RED PEAS [$9.00] | fresh bacon
Along with these more substantial courses came a few of our sides, my favorite of which were the peas. I loved their firm, substantial texture and rich, robust flavors, tempered by the bright, herb-y, spicy nuances in the dish, all while the pork belly added a delectable hit of salt into the mix. If you're only going to get one side, make it this.


SOFT POLENTA [$9.00] | mimolette cheese
Polenta, meanwhile, was pretty much flawless: creamy, cheesy, subtly gritty, and undeniably satisfying.


GRILLED RADICCHIO [$9.00]
Radicchio displayed a delectable balance of bitter and smoky flavors, though I would've liked the leaves a touch crisper.


Chef Zappola brought out a slab of his well-marbled Japanese stripsteak prior to grilling, then came back to slice the meat tableside.


Japan | KOBE-STYLE WAGYU NEW YORK STRIP [$400.00] | 16oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
What we had here was a strip loin of kuroge beef from Gunma Prefecture, priced at a not-unreasonable $25 per ounce. It was exactly what you'd expect from real-deal wagyu: lush and melt-y, with an apparent, but well-integrated fattiness to it that was beautifully moderated by the slight char astringency in the steak. It's a cut above everything else that's out there, and definitely worth your time and money to try a few ounces if you've never had genuine Japanese beef before.


With the Japanese beef dispensed with, we were provided a quartet of sauces, which are complementary here: Bordelaise, chimichurri, horseradish cream, and béarnaise. They weren't truly necessary, but did provide an additional dimension to the steaks.


Moyer Farm, Grain-Fed USDA Prime, Pennsylvania | NEW YORK STRIP [$54.00] | 18oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
First up was a quintessential cut of standard New York strip, done rare (note that we did not request specific temperatures, instead relying of the Chef to make the proper decision in each case). Good flavor on this one, with a noticeable amount of fat as well.


Moyer Farm, Grain-Fed USDA Prime, Pennsylvania | FILET MIGNON [$38.00] | 8oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
Compared to the strip, the filet was of course a step down in terms of flavor, though it was utterly tender, with a char complement from the crust. Could've been a touch rarer, though.


MACARONI AND CHEESE [$9.00] | tasso ham
Zappola's mac 'n' cheese was something special, incorporating not only a trio of cheeses but a maple Béchamel sauce, which resulted in a fantastic sugary undercurrent in the dish. I appreciated the additional complexity of the tasso here as well.


TRUFFLED SPINACH [$9.00]
Spinach was quite to my liking. I really appreciated how the texture of the greens was so deftly displayed here, and how the bitterness of the veggie was so aptly complemented by the earthy dressing, redolent of truffle. A must-try for the spinach fiends out there.


Here, Zappola shows off some tasty looking cuts of Brandt beef.


Brandt Beef, 100% All-Natural, Brawley, California | FILET MIGNON [$56.00] | 8oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
Moving on, we had here filet mignon from local producer Brandt Beef, which was a remarkable step up in terms of flavor. It conveyed an almost "earthy" flair to it, which is hard to find with filets. For me, this was definitely worth the uptick in price vis-à-vis the Moyer.


Brandt Beef, 100% All-Natural, Brawley, California | RIBEYE [$49.00] | 14oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
The Brandt rib eye would probably be my choice among all the steaks here if I had to consume a bunch of it. It displayed a bold, focused beefiness to it that was joined by a well-placed fatty character, resulting in an supremely balanced steak overall.


SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS [$9.00]
Mushrooms, meanwhile, were just what I was expecting. Can't go wrong with this.


POTATOES AU GRATIN [$9.00]
The potatoes gratiné was a fairly classic interpretation of the dish, with the firm, hearty cuts of potato augmented by a rich, enveloping cheesiness, all while a touch of pepper offered up a nice counterpoint.


Last up was Australian wagyu from producer Greg Norman.


Greg Norman Signature Australian Wagyu | RIBEYE [$65.00] | 12oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
This was another commendable presentation of rib eye. Compared to the Brandt, this was a more luxurious cut, with a more in-your-face richness and more apparent fattiness. I'd have a tough time choosing between the two.


Greg Norman Signature Australian Wagyu | NEW YORK STRIP [$68.00] | 14oz
Bodegas Juan Gil, "Silver Label", Murcia, Spain, 2006
Lastly, we ended with the Aussie striploin. Again, there was strong flavor, appropriate char on this preparation, nothing out of place, but I'm not sure if it's worth it over the non-wagyu beef, which was already very good.


Desserts are now the task of Pastry Chef April Baton, who actually started out working here under David Féau. Click for a larger version.


MAPLE BRIOCHE BREAD PUDDING [$11.0] | candy cap mushroom ice cream
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
We began with a lovely bread pudding, the bread really soaking up all of the goodness that the maple had to offer, while the candy cap added an additional hit of sugariness to the fray.


FRIED CINNAMON BEIGNET [$11.00] | chocolate bailey's sauce
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
Beignets were straightforward in presentation, offering a churro-esque sweet spice to them that made sense against the chocolate-y Bailey's dip.


WEST COAST DUTCH BABY [$11.00] | market fresh berries and tahitian vanilla ice cream
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
Next was a version of the Dutch baby, a light, almost fluffy and soufflé-like pancake. Its pairing with tart, tangy berries and ice cream wasn't groundbreaking, but was effective.


GINGER BABA RUM [$11.00] | chestnut cream, rum ice cream
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
Here was the Chef's take on the classic baba au rhum. It maintained the traditional appeal of the dessert, conveying an interplay of sweet and boozy flavors, all while the use of chestnut cream and salted caramel added further facets to the dish. The rum ice cream, meanwhile, was the perfect topping to the cake, and I appreciated the texture from the cinnamon tuile as well.


CHOCOLATE LAYERED MOUSSE CAKE [$11.00] | vanilla malt milk shake
Ramos Pinto 20 yr tawny port
We concluded with my favorite dessert of the evening. It was pretty much your perfect chocolate cake, an unabashedly sugary, uncompromisingly satisfying smack of cacao-laced goodness, wonderfully paired with that delightful vanilla shake.

Over the past several years, CUT in Beverly Hills has consistently been my favorite steakhouse in the Southland. However, my last experience there was somewhat disappointing, and thus this new incarnation of The Royce has a good shot at taking over that top spot. The food, from the steaks to the sides to the apps, was consistently strong overall, and Zappola really is a great fit for the job. The use of a wood-fired grill, meanwhile, adds a wonderful char character and complexity to the cooking that helps set the place apart. To take things over the top, what I'd love to see is the restaurant increase the scope of its own dry aging program. Either way, what we have here is undoubtedly another great addition to the Los Angeles steakhouse scene.

The Hart and The Hunter (Los Angeles, CA)

April 4, 2013, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Littlefork (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: The Royce Wood-Fired Steakhouse (Pasadena, CA)

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The Hart & The Hunter Restaurant
7950 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046
323.424.3055
www.thehartandthehunter.com
Tue 02/26/2013, 07:00p-11:15p





One of the most beloved pop-ups in recent times has been Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga's Wolf in Sheep's Clothing (unrelated to the recently-defunct restaurant bearing the same name), which bowed at Capri Venice in December 2011 and ran until last summer. As a follow-up to that venture, the duo teamed up with Paligroup's Avi Brosh (a regular at the old spot) to launch The Hart and the Hunter inside a space at Brosh's Palihotel that was once home to a Brendan Collins-run coffee bar. Named after one of Aesop's Fables depicting a narcissistic, skinny-legged deer, the restaurant debuted last October with much of the original staff in place (including GM Jonathan Strader), and features more of the chefs' Cal-Southern cooking.

About the Chefs: Georgia native Brian Dunsmoor is an alumnus of the well-regarded Johnson & Wales culinary school in Charleston, where he graduated from in 2004. During his tenure there, he worked at Starfish Grille in the City, and also interned at Kiawah Island Golf Resort's Atlantic Room. Following, Dunsmoor went to Blind Pig Tavern in Athens, and during this period, also attended Gainesville College. In 2005, he began cooking at Hugh Acheson's much-lauded 5 & 10, where he really began developing his skills as a chef, but left two years later to move to LA. Once on the West Coast, Dunsmoor secured a post at Michael Cimarusti's top-notch seafooder Providence at the tail end of 2007, then became sous at both The Hungry Cat and Joe's, before leaving to head up the kitchens at the revamped Axe on Abbot Kinney.

Kristopher Tominaga, meanwhile, grew up right here in Southern California, and fell in love with cooking while attending CSU Chico. After graduating with a business degree, he enrolled in the highly selective Culinary Arts certificate program at Boston University. Once school was done, he stayed in Boston for a while and cooked at Frank McClelland's famed L'Espalier, under Chef de Cuisine James Hackney. However, LA beckoned, and Tominaga soon returned, finding employment as a sous chef at Joe's, where he would meet Dunsmoor in 2008. He would eventually become CdC there before leaving to start WiSC.


The Hart and the Hunter resides in a building that was once home to a youth hostel called Orbit Hotel, and before that, the Century Home For The Retired & Elderly. Given such limitations, I can't complain too much about the renovations. It's a tiny, homey sort of space, with the requisite communal table and a lilliputian, glass-encased kitchen. Also of note are the mismatched chairs, equestrian-themed knick knacks, as well as the infamous blue-tiled walls, which no doubt contribute to the sometimes-deafening din of the place.


The menu here at Hart and the Hunter reads well, an appealing-sounding array of dishes categorized into a logical progression of various sections. To drink, there's a not-terribly-expensive, California-centric wine list and a pretty good selection of craft beers. BYOB is available with a $15/5 corkage fee for wine/beer, making it one of the few places that rightly distinguishes between the two types of booze. Click for larger versions.


Chicken Cracklins and Hot Pepper Vinegar [$5.00]
It seems like everyone starts things off with a plate of the cracklins, and for good reason. The skin is oft considered the best part of the bird, so why not make it the star of the show? The dish was all that you'd expect: crunchy, salty, savory shards of chicken-y goodness, made even better with a dash of the included hot sauce.


Crispy Shrimp Heads & Chili Vin [$6.00]
Deep fried shrimp heads are a favorite of mine at sushi joints, so again, why not make a whole course out of 'em? Crunchy and briny, the heads paired swimmingly with the heat in the dish, while a hit of lemon was the icing on the cake. Talk about creative reuse.


On the beverage front, we commenced with some bubbly, specifically a bottle of the Jean Philippe Brut, France [$40], a Blanquette de Limoux from France's Languedoc region. It was wonderful, with some juicy grape-y and apple-y flavors that managed to convey sweetness without being cloying. Undeniably fun, and utterly gluggable.


Butter Biscuits & Condiments [$6.00]
And here we come to HatH's much bandied about biscuits, served tonight with a delightfully sweet cinnamon butter, juicy blackberries, and a wonderfully creamy-spicy pimento cheese. They're probably worth the hype, and likely the best versions that I've ever had: crisp out the outside (with a nice "crust"), yet soft and fluffy within, and super, duper flaky. How flaky? They literally fell apart when I picked 'em up. Yeah, you gotta order these.


Smoked Trout, Boiled Egg, Pickled Onion, Capers, Avocado Toast [$12.00]
A jar held the smoky, fishy, oily essence of trout, its palpable heft fortunately moderated by the mound of crisp pickles nearby. The egg was certainly tasty, though a touch superfluous, while the avocado toast served as a subdued base to the dish.


Brussels Sprout & Peanut Salad, Aged Cheddar, Bacon Sherry Vinaigrette [$11.00]
Our salad arrived looking more like a slaw, with the salty weight of the cheddar taking center stage against the wonderful crunch of the peanuts, while the vinaigrette tied things together with a sweet, tartish verve. There was only one problem: the bitterness, the crunch, what I love about Brussels--it was all a bit overshadowed, set in the background.


To make good use of the BYO policy, I brought along three beers that I'd pulled from my fridge, all Americans in keeping with the restaurant's theme. The first was the Epic Brewing Brainless On Cherries from Utah, one of only 1,800 numbered bottles from releases #13. It was a beautifully ruby-tinged Belgian-style ale, brewed with cherries and aged in French oak red wine barrels. I found it surprisingly light and thin, with a pretty restrained expression of the fruit and less sourness than I was expecting.


Shrimp & Grits, Mushrooms, Bacon, Scallions [$20.00]
A staple of Charleston and its surroundings, the shrimp 'n' grits is a relatively new item on the menu, and is a surefire winner. The shrimp were cooked spot on, with a great bite to them to go along with their subtle, saline sweetness. The grits, meanwhile, were even better, creamy and satisfying, with a fantastic hit of salt from the bacon, all while the mushrooms added an earthy veil to the dish that worked flawlessly with both elements. An absolute must-try.


Venison Carpaccio, Horseradish Crème Fraiche, Pickled Garlic, Gremolata, Fennel [$15.00]
Ironically, the only dish on the menu featuring hart (deer) was the least successful. The meat was actually a bit lost amongst the other ingredients in the dish, the gremolata and crème fraîche in particular, though I did appreciate the salty kick of the cheese here, as well as the lightness of the fennel strands.


Shishito Peppers [$6.00]
Up next was a classic preparation of shishitos, the char on the peppers working beautifully along with their sweet spice. Everyone knows that about 1 in 10 shishitos are super hot, so I must've had some back luck tonight, as I kept getting a string of the spicy ones. Yet, I kept going--pleasure and pain I suppose.


To pair with our heartier courses, I brought out the Bootlegger's Brewery Knuckle Sandwich, a limited release double IPA brewed right here in Fullerton. It was a superb example of the style, with a great malty base intermingled with the requisite citric and floral nuances. Supremely balanced between bitter and fruity flavors.


Hanger Steak, Polenta, Mushrooms, Snail, Herb Butter [$22.00]
A hanger steak was nice--tender and flavorful--but it sort of took a back seat to the snails. Indeed, the escargots had a lovely texture to them, and showed off a mouth-watering saltiness and savor amplified by the mushrooms and butter. Tasty, but domineering, though fortunately, the polenta here did help balance things out.


Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Bacon [$6.00]
What I felt was lacking in the salad above I found right here in this plate. The bitterness of the sprouts was proudly displayed here, deftly paired with a whisper of char astringency, a touch of sweetness, and the salty punch of bacon.


Melted Raclette, Butterball Potatoes, Cornichons, Ham, Mustard, Soft Bread [$15.00]
Our last savory dish, a reimagined version of the Swiss raclette, featured the always-winning combination of cheese and potato. Indeed, the age-old pairing made perfect sense, forming a hearty, homey, comforting mélange of tastes and textures, perfectly perked up by a hit of salty ham. At the same time, the traditional accoutrements of pickles imparted a sense of moderation to the course, and the bread was a natural pairing, too.


To go along with dessert, I paired a hand-numbered (#435) bottle of Joseph James Brewing Bourbon Barrel Russian Imperial Stout, a version of the brewery's standard Red Fox RIS that's aged for seven months in (Four Roses?) Bourbon barrels. Dark as night, unquestionably viscous, and smooth, the beer was loaded with notes of chocolate and coffee on the nose and the palate, with a marked sweetness all commixed with an undercurrent of oaky goodness from the barrel aging. Nice!


Lemon Ice Box Pie [$6.00]
This Southern treat is quickly becoming H&H's signature dessert. The custard here was fabulous, with a dense, frozen-ish consistency and a boatload of puckering, lemony sourness balanced by the sugary meringue, all while the graham cracker crust served as a flawless complement.


Charleston Coconut Cake [$6.00]
We ended our night with easily the best coconut cake I've ever eaten, and one of the most delicious cakes I've had, period. Possibly inspired by the "ultimate" version at Peninsula Grill, it conveyed a gorgeous coconut sweetness within 10 layers of moist, sponge-y, saturated goodness, topped off by a delightful toasted coconut character. It was almost tres leches-like in nature. Perfect.


The Hart and the Hunter Manager Jonathan Strader, along with Co-Executive Chefs Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga.

Before opening Hart and the Hunter, Dunsmoor and Tominaga embarked on a culinary tour of the South, and perhaps because of this, the cooking seemed slightly tweaked from before. Indeed, they're still intermingling the traditions of American Southern cooking with Cal cuisine sensibilities, but the dishes seemed a bit cleaner, more focused, with a clearer Down South aesthetic. I'm glad that the two have emerged from the WiSC debacle as strong as ever, and finally found a place to call their own.

Littlefork (Los Angeles, CA)

April 9, 2013, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Paiche (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: The Hart and The Hunter (Los Angeles, CA)

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Littlefork Restaurant
1600 Wilcox Ave, Hollywood, CA 90028
323.465.3675
www.littleforkla.com
Thu 03/21/2013, 09:00p-11:25p





The dearth of solid eateries in Hollywood has long been the bane of many an Angeleno, but the situation just got a little better recently with the launch of Littlefork (a reference to those ubiquitous oyster utensils), the newest project from the long-absent Jason Travi. Serving as a sort of homage to the Chef's Massachusetts roots, the restaurant represents a partnership with David Reiss (Sunny Spot, A-Frame, Alibi Room, The Brig) and debuted at the start of January. The conceit here is that Travi pays tribute not only to his birthplace in New England, but also draws inspiration from the southern reaches of Canada near Montreal, an ideology that manifests itself clearly in the prevalence of smoked meats on the menu.

A quick recap: When we last mentioned Jason Travi, he was in the midst of a falling out with his partners at Fraiche and Fraiche 2.0 (Riva). It was October 2009, and if you recall, he left the country abruptly with his wife Miho and their newborn in the middle of the Riva-to-Fraiche transition. Upon returning in December, he began looking for a place to open his own solo project, but ended up accepting a position as Corporate Chef for restaurateur Jeffrey Best the following March. He stayed in that role for two years, revamping the menus at Mesa in Orange County and Studio City's Firefly while also collaborating on the opening menu at Downtown sandwich slanger Blue Cow Kitchen. In October 2012, Travi cooked a night at the latest iteration of Test Kitchen at Bestia. Shortly thereafter, he announced plans for his triumphant return at Littlefork, and here we are.


The interior has been transformed since its days as Shin Korean BBQ. Penned by designer Sean Knibb (who also did Roy Choi's A-Frame), the space has a sort of Mid-Century-meets-Scandinavia vibe. The dining room is pictured above, but there's also a separate, livelier bar area.


The Littlefork menu combines Travi's interpretations of the best of New England and its surrounding Canadian environs. To drink, think whiskey-centric cocktails by barman Dino Balocchi of Chicago's famed Longman & Eagle, as well as a smattering of wine and beer. Click for larger versions.


To start: a jar of complementary house-made pickles.


GEORGETOWN SWIZZLE [$12.00] | dark rum, jamaican rum, EXR, lime, demerara, mint
LOGAN SQUARE [$12.00] | gin, carpano, benedictine, angostura bitters, chocolate, mint
A couple cocktails to start. The Georgetown Swizzle was a twist on the classic, an almost quaffable concoction that nicely played sweet-spicy-bitter flavors over the boozy heft of the rum, all while the mint added an overarching lightness to the drink. The Logan Square, meanwhile, paid homage to the location of Balocchi's former digs in Chicago. The balance of gin, Carpano, Bénédictine, and bitters all made sense, though you had to taste hard to find the chocolate and mint; they were there, but very, very subtle.


CRISPY HEAD CHEESE [$6.00] | smoked tomato aioli
I'm quite the fan of fromage de tête, and have a hard time not ordering it, hence its appearance tonight. It came in fried fritter form, thus looking quite innocuous to the head cheese virgins in my party. Once you bit in, though, the slick, gelatinous consistency of the meat jelly was there, proudly displayed, though tempered by the savory outer crust. These were tasty little bites, nicely complemented by the tangy aioli and bitter veggies on top.


MAPLE EGGS [$9.00] | crispy bacon
I also had a hard time passing these up on the menu, ostensibly a nod to Alain Passard's iconic oeuf à l'Arpège. Eggs arrived in light, fluffy form, perked up by the crisp, salty shards of bacon, while the maple cream provided an undercurrent of sweetness that made itself known toward the finish. Breakfast-y.


CLAM CAKES [$6.00] | house tartar sauce
Clam cakes were delightful, really showing off the texture and brine of the seafood against the savory accent of the fried batter. Lovely with a squirt of lemon and dab of the included tartar sauce.


SMOKED MEATS POUTINE [$7.00] | curds, gravy
Littlefork's poutine was one of the more traditional versions around. It worked out though, with the gravy adding a hearty, heavy blast of smokiness to the salty fries, while the cheese curds offered up a fitting counterpoint to the dish. Nice texture on the taters, too.


JAMES & YORK [$12.00] | rum, port, lime, pineapple, chesapeake & creole bitters, molasses
Our server tonight just so happened to be none other than the lovely Semhar Tadesse, whom you might remember as the first contestant booted off the island on Survivor: South Pacific. The James & York just so happened to be her favorite cocktail on the menu. It was mine, too. I adored the interplay here between the rum and the sweet 'n' spicy notes of the bitters and molasses, all while the pineapple and lime added a fantastic tartness to the mix.


FISH STICKS [$9.00] | pickled vegetable salad, orange dijon sauce
Fat-fingered fish sticks were nice, reminding me of an uppity incarnation of the ones made ever so popular by the Gorton's Fisherman. I liked the levity provided by the pickled veggies here, but the orange Dijon was overly tart, covering up the delicate flavors of the fish somewhat. I would've much preferred a more traditional mustard here.


OYSTERS [$13.00] | cider mignonette, cocktail sauce
East Coast oysters--Rocky Nook and Naked Cowboy--were spot on: salty, clean and crisp, tasty alone and just as good when slurped with the various accoutrements provided.


PORTUGUESE MUSSELS [$16.00] | linguiça, beer, chickpeas
Mussels were also enjoyable, their delicate salinity working hand-in-hand with the savory chunks of linguiça tossed in. I loved the use of chickpea here, which added a wonderful heft and textural element to the dish.


BRUSSELS SPROUTS [$8.00] | apple cider braised, sage, crispy chicken skin
Being the Brussels sprouts fiend that I am, these were a must-order as well. They were delicious, conveying the bitterness inherent in the vegetable along with a delightful sweet 'n' sour character from the cider, all while the chicken skin added a further blast of savory goodness.


EL PERDIDO [$12.00] | tequila, lime, chartreuse, cocchi americano, strawberry chile bitters
The last cocktail brought us El Perdido, appropriately featuring tequila. There was an almost candied sweetness to the drink, which was a bit much for me, though the bitter, herb-y nuances here did provide a semblance of balance.


STEAMED SNOW CRAB [$18.00] | chermoula spice, charred lime
There was far too much work involved with the snow crab, but the results may just have been worth it. The flesh of the crustacean was soft and sweet, tasty alone, but at the same time, not overwhelmed by the herb-y zing of the chermoula.


ROASTED CAULIFLOWER [$7.00] | pimenton, pickled yellow raisins
Cauliflower was also a success, still a bit crisp, with a great roast-y character and a hit of sweetness from the raisins.


LOBSTER ROLL [$18.00] | parker house roll, house salt & vinegar chips
I'm happy to report that Angelenos have yet another choice when it comes to lobsterrolls. The version here, done more in the cold Maine salad style as opposed to the hot Connecticut style, went over very well with us. The lobster itself arrived supple and sweet, not overcooked and not masked by the mayo, and worked flawlessly with the sweet, buttery bread, while the greens added a kick of offsetting astringency to the dish.


BRISKET [$16.00] | three mustards
Finally, we ended our run of savories with an item from the "Apple Wood Smoked" section of the menu. Montreal-style brisket arrived thinly-sliced, with a trio of mustards: whole grain, raisin-infused, and Dijon. The meat was deftly smoked and expertly spiced, as well as fork-tender, though it could've been juicier, more succulent. I enjoyed the brisket alone, but the mustards really did their job here as well in providing a point of contrast to the beef.


Desserts by Pastry Chef Miho Travi (the husband-and-wife team met at Spago), natch, were a must. Click for a larger version.


WHOOPIE PIE [$8.00] | two pies, marshmallow fluff
Our first was the whoopie pie, an iconic dessert endemic to the New England area. They were about as good as you'd expect, with the moist chocolate cake combining with the marshmallow frosting in satisfying fashion.


APPLE CIDER DONUTS [$8.00] | apple butter, salted caramel
Apple cider donuts, meanwhile, were even better: hot and crisp, with a nice spice to 'em augmented even further by the butter and caramel.

I'm happy to report that we have yet another legit place to grub in Hollywood. It's nice to have the Chef back cooking, and this experiment of melding an East Coast seafood joint with a Montreal-esque BBQ joint seems to be working, though next time I'd like to sample more of the heartier fare. Cocktails, meanwhile, were promising, and service was on point, too, so I can't complain. Welcome back Jason.

Paiche (Los Angeles, CA)

April 12, 2013, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Trois Mec (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Littlefork (Los Angeles, CA)

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Paiche Restaurant
13488 Maxella Ave, Marina del Rey, CA 90292
310.893.6100
www.paichela.com
Fri 04/12/2013, 07:30p-01:05a





The Ricardo Zarate train keeps on rollin'. Hot on the heels of Picca and Mo-Chica is Paiche, the Chef's latest project with partner Stephane Bombet named after a large Amazonian fish that's prominently featured on the menu. Though the restaurant was slated to become a ceviche-focused spot initially, it's now squarely advertised as a Peruvian izakaya of sorts. The seafood-centric slant remains, though, as Paiche focuses on the coastal cuisine of Peru, and also pays homage to the Japanese influences inherent in the cuisine.

Angelenos got a first taste of Paiche at a pair of Food & Wine Best New Chefs dinners on March 26th and 27th featuring Naomi Pomeroy and the duo of Jamie Bissonnette and Viet Pham. This was followed up by a lottery-based sneak peak days later. The restaurant was supposed to grand open on April 2nd, but the debut was pushed back to the 12th due to an emergency in the Chef's family.


Paiche was penned by the Santa Barbara-based DesignARC, with input from both Zarate and Bombet. Not surprisingly, the space features an ocean-y theme draped in shades of blue, appropriate for the menu as well as the MdR locale. There's an open kitchen of course, adjacent to the bar, a 42-seat semi-enclosed patio, and de rigueur swaths of reclaimed wood all over.


The menu at Paiche is vast, featuring 60 small plates divided into various sections. A lot of people have complained about the price/portion ratio here vis-à-vis the other restaurants; I'm not sure why it tends higher, but I'm curious to see how Paiche responds. To drink, you'll find a cocktail program by Deysi Alvarez (Mo-Chica), in addition to beer, soju, and a selection of Latin-focused wines and liquors. Click for larger versions.


Side Car [$14.00] | Pierre Ferrand Cognac // Royal Combier Liqueur // Meyer Lemon Juice // Orange Zest // Sugar Rim
Papa Hemingway [$13.00] | Matusalem Rum (Original Cuban Formula) // Lime Juice // Grapefruit Juice // Luxardo Maraschino
Pisco Sour [$11.00] | Porton Pisco // Organic Egg White // Lime Juice // Evaporated Cane Syrup // Cinnamon Tincture // Angostura Bitters
There were no less than 16 cocktails on the menu, and we made sure to sample each and every one of 'em. The Sidecar was a fairly traditional version, with a nice interplay between citrus-y and boozy notes, all while the sugar rim added a hit of sweetness on the finish. The Papa Hemingway, meanwhile, showed off a certain lightness to it, with the rum really tempered by the lime and grapefruit and the maraschino contributing a sugary contrast in the cocktail. Finally, the Pisco Sour represented a prototypical presentation of the drink, but with the addition of cinnamon. It worked out rather well, with the classic eggy and boozy nuances complemented by a lovely trace of sweet spice.


Shrimp Dumplings [$9.00] | Soy Lime Dressing // Spicy Rocoto Infused Oil
Now, on to the food. Dumplings were fantastic, really conveying the sweet, saline essence of shrimp and playing it off of the Asian-y flavors of the soy-lime dressing, all while the cilantro added a wonderfully aromatic touch on the close. Just gimme a big bowl of the stuff!


Paiche Wrap Lettuce [$12.00] | Grilled Amazonian Fish // Anticucho Miso Marinated
Here was the first of three dishes featuring the restaurant's eponymous fish. It did not disappoint, with the miso providing a great depth of flavor to the paiche while the pickles imparted a crunchy, tangy counterpoint to the course. Tasty, and something you should probably order.


Uni [$25.00]
The uni ceviche brought us an entire tray of the echinoderm. Taken alone, the urchin conveyed a cold, creamy, briny character with a whisper of bitterness. It was solid by itself, but the key was to eat it with all the other elements here, resulting in a mélange of textures and a deft marriage between the uni and that leche de tigre.


Pink Panther [$12.00] | Platino Atlantico Rum // Muddled Mint // Strawberry Juice // Grapefruit Juice // Lemon Juice // Orgeat Syrup // Topped with Cava
At this point, we were delivered a Pink Panther by mistake, but we gladly drunk up the error. It was a summer-y, quaffable cocktail, with almost no booziness to it and a bracingly pure expression of strawberry sweetness.


Four of our ceviches arrived on one long slab, though I much would've preferred each dish on its own separate plate.


Sweet Shrimp [$14.00]
The sweet shrimp was the only serious misstep of the night. Texturally, it was off, delivering a soft, mushy consistency rather than the snappy, springy bite that you'd expect, while the taste really didn't convey the sweet salinity that I wanted either.


Squid [$8.00]
Squid was better, supple and creamy, with a marked shiso character and a touch of sesame(?) savoriness.


Crab [$8.00]
The crab was the heartiest item on the plate: sweet and ocean-y, with a satisfying texture and a creamy richness from its hefty topping.


Jumbo Scallops [$12.00]
Last up were the scallops. They were on point to be sure, with a lovely chew to them and a subtle sweet brine that worked beautifully with a prick of salt and the acerbic zing of the ceviche liquid.


Tuna Tartar [$16.00] | Caviar // Soy Ceviche Dressing // Wonton Chips
Our next course sort of reminded of the tuna tartar at Nobu--not a bad thing mind you. The fish was ground to a fine grain, and dutifully displayed an oily, briny character, augmented by the soy, that went perfectly with the salty kick of caviar. I loved the crunchiness of those chips, too.


Assorted Pickles [$7.00] | Mixed Vegetables
A commendable array of pickles here: crisp, tart, and nice with the included whole grain mustard.


The Last Ice Age [$13.00] | Pisco Porton // Hakushu Whiskey 12 Yrs // Organic Egg White // Lime Juice // Lemon Juice // Evaporated Simple Syrup // Fernet Branca Liqueur Drops
Oaxacalifornia Love [$13.00] | El Jimador Tequila // Organic Vida Mezcal // Pineapple Juice // Pineapple Rocoto Gomme
Mojito de Martinique [$14.00] | Neisson Eleve Sous Bois Rhum Agricole // Pine of Fresh Mint // Muddled Limes // Martinique Cane Syrup // Seltzer Water
Round number two for cocktails. The Last Ice Age was rather fetching with its balance of pisco and whiskey flavors against the sweet, eggy, creamy elements in the drink--one of my favorites of the night for sure. The Oaxacalifornia Love, meanwhile, was even better. I'd had it before at Mo-Chica, and loved its smoky nose, tart and spicy notes on the midpalate, and lingering finish redolent of mezcal. I gave up mojitos long ago, but the Mojito de Martinique was certainly a laudable version of my former drink, perhaps a bit more contemplative than usual.


Wagyu Beef [$12.00] | Seared Wagyu // Parmesan Sauce // Aji Amarillo Vinaigrette // Black Truffle
Wagyu arrived tender and fatty, imbued with a heady hit of truffle, though I wanted more substantial slices here, so that there'd be a more apparent beefiness to pair with that tangy aji amarillo dressing.


Uni Shrimp Toast [$14.00] | Sea Urchin // Shrimp Paste Toast // Rocoto Honey Sauce
I've never met an unitoast I didn't like, and Zarate's was no exception. The combo of urchin and shrimp worked flawlessly, and I loved the lightness imparted by the tomato "salsa" here. A must try.


Amaebi [$12.00] | Filo Dough Wrap // Sweet Shrimp // Jalapeño Ponzu Dressing
Shrimp arrived wrapped in phyllo, reminding me of a similar dish that I'd had at Nobu before. This one was just as good, with a fantastic crispness from the dough that worked beautifully with the amaebi--lovely head, too. What was even better, though, was the sauce here, a mouth-watering mix of jalapeño heat and ponzu sour-savor that made us wish we had some bread around to sop up the remaining liquid. I could've used another one (or six) of these.


Paiche [$10.00] | Amazonian Fish // Aji Amarillo Lemon Vinaigrette // Tamari // Sweet Potato Mousse
Our second preparation of paiche showed off a gorgeous savoriness to it that was heightened by the umami-rich relish of the tamari, though the sweet potato wasn't strictly necessary.


Bernard Devoto, aka The Master of Intoxication [$14.00] | Sino Tequila Reposado // Christian Drouin Calvados // Yellow Chartreuse // Benedictine // Angostura Bitters
Cuba Libre [$12.00] | White Flor de Cana Rum // Squeezed Lime // Mexican Coke
Palma Fizz [$13.00] | Quinoa Vodka // Lime Juice // Ginger Syrup // Pomegranate Reduction // Dashes of Rose Water // Club Soda
Continuing on with the cocktails, we had here the wordy Bernard Devoto, aka The Master of Intoxication, with its aroma that was half way between medicinal and candied Jolly Rancher, a sensation that continued on the palate--I was down with it. The Cuba Libre was a by-the-book preparation with a strong lime component, though the cola seemed a bit flabby. Lastly, we had the Palma Fizz, a bright, bracing cocktail with a strong blast of ginger over an undercurrent of sweet, tart flavors.


Spatchcocked [$10.00] | Grilled Chicken // Panca Moro Miso Sauce
Boneless, butterflied chicken was tasty, the bird coming out moist and tender, with a deep, satisfying sapor from the miso sauce, all set off by a bit of char astringency.


Pacu Ribs [$12.00] | Amazonian Fish Ribs // Anticucho Lime Miso // Zapallo Puree
The pacu is a South American freshwater fish that happens to be related to the famed piranha. Its ribs were surprisingly substantial, with a rich, meaty character and a hint of spicy sweetness that satisfied.


Calamari Relleno [$10.00] | Stuffed Baby Squid // Chorizo // Aji Pepian
Stuffed squid is always a smart decision, as was the case tonight, coming out torpedo-shaped, with a great interaction between the ocean-y flavors of the cephalopod and the meaty, spicy chorizo. Lovely texture on the squid, too, and I appreciated the starchy counterpoint in the course as well.


The Georgia Mint Julep [$13.00] | Pierre Ferrand Cognac // Creme de Peche de Vigne Liqueur // Mint Leaves // Seltzer Water
Chilcano de Clovos [$13.00] | Pisco Oro Quebranta // Limes // Ginger Syrup // Cloves Syrup // Angostura Bitters // Seltzer Water
Champs Elysees [$13.00] | Pierre Ferrand Cognac // Green Chartreuse // Lemon Juice // Simple Syrup // Angostura Bitters // Lemon Essence
The Georgia Mint Julep was a reworked version of the original, with a juicy peach sweetness initially leading to intermingled flavors of slightly medicinal cognac and mint on the midpalate. Another modified classic, the Chilcano de Clovos gave us a strong essence of ginger along with more subtle overtones of clove. Finally, the Champs Elysees arrived very well balanced, with the base of cognac flowing smoothly into bitter and citrus-y nuances.


Grilled Quail [$16.00] | Pisco Basted // Ume Plum Wine Dressing
One of my favorites was the grilled quail. It was delicious, with a wonderful char bitterness to go along with the juicy, mouth-watering meat, amplified by the deep flavors of the plume wine. I just wanted to keep eating.


Chaufa de Langosta [$12.00] | Lobster // Mixed Seafood // Fried Rice
Yet another highlight of the meal was Zarate's lobster fried rice, which just might be the best fried rice I've ever had (interestingly, the other one that comes to mind was at Picca). The inherent brine of the various seafood here was so deftly conveyed, set off even further by the smoky char essence in the dish and working hand-in-hand with the slightly sticky grains of rice. At the same time, a blast of citrus offset the strong flavors at play here, and the radish was a beautiful touch as well. A bigger bowl please!


Arroz con Conchas Negras y Erizo [$18.00] | Blood Clams // Sea Urchin // Risotto
Risotto came out somewhat crispy, and positively imbued with the ocean-y relish of the clams and urchin. Quite enjoyable, though I would've liked more texturally from the clams.


Seco de Paiche [$14.00] | Amazonian Fish Stew // Cilantro Aderezo Sauce // Pallares
Our final paiche dish didn't let us down. Indeed, it was the heftiest of the trio, with the tender, tasty meat playing off of the cilantro notes in stellar fashion, all while the bean-y pallares did a wonderful job in grounding the dish. Definitely worth a try.


Quinoa con Alverjitas [$14.00] | English Peas // Quinoa // Risotto
Quinoa was soft and gritty, with a nutty relish that paired swimmingly with the bright, verdant flavors inherent in the peas.


Octopus [$10.00]
Kampachi [$12.00]
More ceviches. First was the octopus, a soft, supple, satisfying example that had an almost olive-y zestiness to it. The kampachi, meanwhile, was firm and incredibly dense, with a mild taste that was taken up a notch by the tangy leche.


Haricot Vert [$7.00]
Green beans didn't seem all that exciting on the menu, but they were stupendous, probably one of the best versions I've had in fact. I loved their waxy, crunchy consistency and deep, dark flavors, heightened by the use of katsuobushi.


Spinach [$6.00]
Spinach was similarly on point, with a fantastic texture to it and faultless blend of savory and astringent flavors. I quite appreciated the use of crispy bits of cancha here, too.


Maracuya Caipirinha [$15.00] | Leblon Cachaca Rum // Fresh Passion Fruit // Muddled Lime // Pure Cane Syrup
Americano [$13.00] | Campari // Sweet Vermouth // Dash of Orange Juice // Seltzer Water // Flamed Orange Peel
Margarita [$12.00] | Jimador Tequila // House Made Orange Bitters // Lime Juice // Agave Nectar // Pinch of Gusano Salt
Our final cocktail troika got started with the Maracuya Caipirinha, which had a blast of passion fruit tartness over the classic flavors of the drink. The Americano, on the other hand, was delightfully effervescent, with a pleasing bittersweetness that went superbly with the flamed orange. Lastly, we had Paiche's version of the ubiquitous Margarita. I'm happy to report, though, that it was one of the best I've had, with a superb woody, savory character from the combo of tequila and gusano (worm) salt.


Pork Necks [$10.00] | Grilled Pork Neck // Gochujang // Green Onions
Zarate's pork neck was also a standout for the table, giving us delectably sweet, smoky, almost char siu-esque flavors that made absolute sense against the pork. Yum.


Chicharron de Pescado [$11.00] | Crispy Fish Chicharron // Lime Yuzu Sauce
Nuggets of fish were fun little bites, with a surprisingly strong salinity to 'em that paired in commendable fashion with that puckering lime-yuzu condiment.


Crispy Tuna Tacu Tacu [$8.00] | Spicy Tuna // Crispy Tacu Tacu // Rocoto Aioli
Spicy tuna was about as tasty as you'd expect, brightened up a bit by the rocoto while the tacu-tacu (fried rice and beans) served to temper the bite.


Rock Shrimp Tempura [$10.00] | Spicy Chancaca Soy Dressing // Rocoto Aioli
Rock shrimp were easy enough to like, reminding us of a Chinese-style walnut preparation, especially with the slight sweetness in the dish. My concern here was that the batter was overly thick, distracting us from the inherent goodness of the shrimp.


Saltado de Quail [$19.00] | Sauteed Quail // Five Spice // Rosemary Rocoto Dressing
A sauté of quail was a table favorite. Tender and incredibly succulent, the bird was teeming with savory flair, and yet imbued with the heady essence of five spice and char. Delicious, especially when taken with a scoop of the included slaw.


Saltado de Camarones [$14.00] | Sauteed Shrimps // Tomato Onion Stew // Home Made Pasta
Our final savory dish was yet another saltado, this time of shrimp. It didn't quite reach the lofty levels of the aforementioned quail, but was appealing in its own right: creamy and comforting, with the tomato and onion working masterfully with the shrimp and pasta.


Chocolate Cake [$9.00]
Apparently, lauded LA Pastry Chef Waylynn Lucas helped Paiche out with the desserts, a fact that I don't think I've seen advertised before. Her chocolate cake came out looking much like a chocolate tart, but was enjoyable nonetheless, with the dark, sugary notes of the chocolate balanced by the in-your-face tartness of passion fruit. Nice crust here, too.


Chicha Raspadilla [$9.00]
What we had here was what basically amounted to shaved ice made with chicha morada. It was surprisingly to my liking, with the overt sugariness of the ice making sense alongside the crisp, tart cubes of apple and pineapple.


Churros [$9.00]
Churros, finally, were as scrumptious as you'd expect: hot, fluffy fritters dusted with sweet spice--tasty alone, and just as good with the two dipping sauces.


Two thumbs up from Ricardo Zarate and Stephane Bombet.

Cuisine-wise, aside from the gaffe with the sweet shrimp, the kitchen was pretty much on point, delivering an appealing array of dishes with some true standout items. The cooking upholds the standards set by Mo-Chica and Picca, though it offers up a palpably different, though compatible, and arguably more refined experience, a Japanese-inflected ode to seafood in effect. As for what's next for Zarate and Bombet, the two are aiming to launch Suave Riko, a pollo a la Brasa joint that was supposed to be housed in the original Mo-Chica space (which the duo has since given up). After that, there's always the Peruvian fine dining concept that the Chef's been hinting at for the past few years...

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Trois Mec (Los Angeles, CA)

April 18, 2013, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Sirena (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Paiche (Los Angeles, CA)

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Trois Mec Restaurant
716 N Highland Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.462.1344
www.troismec.com
Thu 04/18/2013, 07:00p-09:30p





Given the fervor and fanfare that Ludovic Lefebvre has generated through his LudoBites pop-ups over the past several years, I think it's pretty safe to say that Trois Mec ("three guys") is likely the biggest LA opening of 2013. The restaurant represents a collaboration between Ludo, Jon Shook, and Vinny Dotolo, though from a practical standpoint, it's Ludo's restaurant, his food, his style. The Dudes are taking on more of a management/operations role, bringing over Animal's Ashley Ragovin to serve as GM, and also installing Operations/Beverage Director Helen Johannesen. In the kitchen, Ludo will be supported by Chef de Cuisine Doug Rankin, formerly of Chris Cosentino's PIGG at Umamicatessen (Ink and The Bazaar, too), not to mention eliminated The Taste contestant Renée Everett (she preps in the morning).

Now, this being a proper Ludo venture, things just wouldn't seem complete without reservation drama, and indeed, the process didn't go quite smoothly with the restaurant's new (and controversial) ticketing system, Next Table (as popularized by Next and Alinea in Chicago). Though I was able to register with no problem, I had difficulty actually logging in, and failed to secure a ticket. Judging from the stream of tweets from the @TroisMecLA account, I wasn't alone. Fortunately, a friend and longtime reader stepped in and included me on her reservation. Some way, somehow, things always tend to work out in the end, and for that, I'm grateful.



Trois Mec is situated inside the building once occupied by Raffallo's Pizza, which closed in the middle of last year. The interior's been completely gutted and rebuilt, and is now swathed in white marble, while mirrors give the illusion of a larger space. There are four tables against one wall, opposite an eight-seater kitchen counter, giving a total capacity of 26. A wine cellar built by Premier Cru sits in one corner. According to Ludo, the idea is to convey the experience of dining in a working kitchen, with every table being a kitchen table, in effect. Sharp-eyed readers may notice Jon Shook conversing with none other than Jimmy Kimmel in the second photo.


The Trois Mec menu comprises five courses (plus "snacks") at $97.13 per person (inclusive of 9.75% tax and 18% tip, on a base price of $75). A ticket entitles a diner to food only, while a wine pairing ($49) and other francocentric wines are available for an extra charge at the restaurant. Click for larger versions.


elderflower and mugwort beer
We commenced with a palate opener comprising mugwort beer and elderflower, a fun way to start that showed off a refreshing sweetness with just the right amount of astringency.


Herb and flower tart
2011 Rouletabulle, Eric Texier
Our first "snack" was an herb tart featuring fennel, little gem, and sorrel. It was essentially a one-bite salad, with the bright, bitter taste of the herbs transitioning beautifully to the richness of the buttery, savory crust, all while the dressing served to tie together and accentuate the dish. To pair with our snacks, we were poured a delightful sparkling Chasselas from the northern Rhône. This was described by Ragovin as a "naked poolside wine," and indeed, it was sweet and bubbly, an unabashedly gluggable vin that's perfect for summer sipping.


Buckwheat popcorn
2011 Rouletabulle, Eric Texier
I could see the buckwheat becoming a mainstay snack here, and for good reason. The "popcorn" was undeniably satisfying, giving us a fantastic crunchiness and a lip-smacking, almost chicken-y savoriness. They really need to bag and sell this stuff.


Peas and asparagus with salmon roe
2011 Rouletabulle, Eric Texier
I've got quite the pea fetish, but I'd never had a presentation quite like this before. The combo of peas and asparagus delivered a blast of bright, green, astringent, yet sweet flavors that were superbly complemented by the enveloping weight of the miso mayo. If that wasn't enough, we had pricks of saltiness from the salmon roe that served as an intriguing, yet effective accent piece here.


Chicken with sesame seed and mustard
2011 Rouletabulle, Eric Texier
As we all know by this point, Ludo is comfortable around coq, and that was made very clear in this dish. The chicken arrived juicy and tender, with a rather profound flavor to it that perfectly married the nutty savoriness of those sesame seeds with the tanginess of mustard. I just wanted to keep eating.


1: Asparagus, brioche, egg yolk, yuzu, green alder
2011 Jurancon Sec, Dm. Bru-Bache
With the snacks out of the way, it was now time for the meal proper to begin, and what a start! This just might be the best asparagus dish I've ever eaten. The spears were flawlessly prepared: bright and bitter, with a supple snap to them that I reveled in. The key to this, though, was to mix everything together. That way, you got a blast of sour, bitter, savory (love those brioche crumbles), and creamy that resulted in some fantastic flavor transitions and a great mix of textures as well, with the asparagus always remaining the star of the show. A smart, multifaceted course that paired swimmingly with the complex fruity-minerally notes of the Jurançon.


2: Carrot, bbq, orange, yogurt, avocado, watercress
2011 Pinot Auxerrois, Maurice Schoech
You could smell the curry-esque aromas from a mile away on this one. Indeed, that spice permeated the dish, infusing the carrots with an in-your-face smack of flavor that coexisted with sweet and smoky nuances. The end result was a mélange of bold, lusty elements that made this one of the most intriguing presentations of carrot that I've experienced. I especially appreciated the countervailing levity imparted by the juicy citrus wedges here, as well as the almost ethereal lightness of the yogurt. I'm not a fan of cooked carrot in general, but Ludo worked it out here. In addition, I really enjoyed the wine on this one, an Auxerrois Blanc from an Alsatian grand cru Riesling producer that perfectly blended sweetness and minerality in a crisp, refreshing format.


3: Potato pulp, brown butter, bonito, onion soubise, salers
2008 Saint Aubin, Sentier du Clos, Henri Prudhon
This is a course that I'm sure will become one of the signatures here at Trois Mec. The potato showed off an almost "fluffy," yet substantial consistency, with a satisfying butteriness to it that was beautifully highlighted by the umami-laced flavors of the katsuobushi, all while the soubise and Salers contributed an integrating creaminess and heft to the dish that underscored everything. Make no mistake though, the potato always remained the hero in the dish, as it should. Such a humble ingredient, but properly elevated.


There's no no-photo policy anymore (unlike at MasterCard's Priceless LApreview dinners), but using flash is highly discouraged.


4: Rib cap, shallot broth, black walnut, clover spelt
2010 Gevrey-Chambertin, Dm. Maume
Our most substantial course of the night featured rib eye cap set in a "risotto" of spelt. The steak itself arrived fatty and tender to the bite, with a hearty, smoky flair (notes that were mimicked in the wine) to it that paired smartly with the piquant, comforting soupe à l'oignon-inspired sauce. The spelt, meanwhile, did an admirable job mixing things up texturally, and also served to moderate the dish.


5: Strawberry, almond ice cream, rhubarb, rose ice, olive oil cake
Bugey-Cerdon, Patrick Bottex
Dessert was a success, no doubt one of the best that Ludo's ever served. The sugariness of strawberry was proudly conveyed here, gorgeously set off by the floral aromatics of the rose while the olive oil cake imparted a subtle savory balance to things. The sweet, nutty, amaretto-esque ice cream was a further point of interest in the dish, making for an utterly balanced dessert that was delicious alone, and even better with the accompanying sparkling Gamay.


Caramel tart
We closed with a caramel tart laced with cumin and habanero salt, a fitting end to the meal that did a wonderful job in countering the sweetness of the caramel with just a trace of spicy, savory goodness.


Toward the end of the evening, Ludo once again regaled us with another rendition of a traditional Burgundian drinking song (first encountered with David Féau and company at The Royce).

Well it's about damn time. It was worth the wait though. As someone who's consumed more than my fair share of LudoBites dinners (dating back to 2.0), it's clear that the Chef has upped his game here. The cooking gives the impression of more polish, more restraint, while at the same time jiving with the concept of presenting something fancy, but not too fancy--call it bistronomy if you wish. In fact, I'd go as far as to say that, taken as a whole, this is the best food Ludo's ever presented (with apologies to his work at L'Orangerie and Bastide, which I did not have the pleasure of experiencing), and I have no doubt that Trois Mec is well on its way to become one of LA's iconic dining destinations. Dinner and a show? No, dinner as the show.

Sirena (Los Angeles, CA)

April 24, 2013, 7:15 pm

≫ Next: Animal (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Trois Mec (Los Angeles, CA)

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Sirena Restaurant
8265 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.852.7000
www.sirenarestaurant.com
Mon 03/25/2013, 07:15p-11:15p





After being delayed for seemingly forever, Sirena ("mermaid" in Italian) finally debuted at the start of January. Set in the space of the former Pane e Vino (which shuttered in September 2011 after 20 years in business), the restaurant is the latest project from Sandy Gendel (Pace, Cheebo), Michael Sutton (Guys & Dolls, Lodge Steakhouse, Xenii, Geisha House, Goa), and Peter Garland (Porta Via, where Gendel served as opening chef). Jeremy Strubel (Rustic Canyon, Momed, Public, Libertine) was hired on a consulting basis to execute the place's Cal-Italian menu, while Kenneth Curran from the San Francisco Baking Institute was brought on to helm Sirena's baking program.



At the outset, Sirena was set to be penned by the Spacecraft Group, but the project eventually landed in the hands of Hamilton Architects before Fred Sutherland (Fred 62, The Olive), Dina Juntila, and Gendel himself stepped in. The dining room has a sort of aquatic theme going on, with the bar to one side, while the kitchen now features an Alan Scott-designed wood-burning oven. The famed patio out back, meanwhile, is more charming than ever.


Sirena's lengthy, seafood-centric menu is a bit all over the place. The hyper-regional focus of Sotto this has not. Click for larger versions.


Bread is made in-house daily, and arrived at the table alongside olive oil and almonds.


Oysters on the Half Shell [$19.00] | Half Dozen
Oysters were Kumamotos if I recall, and prototypical of the style, with a much-needed jolt of acidity courtesy of the included mignonette.


Santa Barbara Sea Urchin [$19.00] | Crispy Risotto, Guanciale & Saba
Uni on top of crispy rice sounds like a great idea, but execution fell short. Indeed, the risotto was merely tough instead of crispy, and tended to overpower the delicate flavors of the sea urchin. I didn't get much from the saba (grape must syrup) either, though the prosciutto did add a hit of salt to the dish, and I appreciated the levity imparted by the greens here as well.


Antipasto Platter [$20.00] | Prisciutto di San Danielle, Bresaola, Salami, Mesquite Grilled Seasonal Vegetables, Marinated Mushrooms and Peppers, Parmigiano Reggiano, Smoked Scamorza & Pizza Bread
The antipasto platter was an impressive spread, and overall a success. The various cold cuts were on point and satisfying, while the scamorza was the highlight of the course, with its smoky, salty smack. I enjoyed the pizza bread, too, which served as a nice counterweight to the other items presented.


Fried Squash Blossoms [$15.00] | Burrata, Ricotta, Parmigiano, Roasted Pepper Coulis, Fried Garbanzo Beans & Frisee Lettuce
The squash blossoms were clearly a highlight of the meal for me. They showed off a nice crunch to 'em, which melded beautifully with their creamy, cheesy insides, while the pepper coulis added a lovely piquancy to the dish. My favorite element here, though, was the inclusion of garbanzos, which added texture and a marked savoriness to the fray.


Maine Lobster Salad [$20.00] | Burrata, Flora Bella Arugula, Clementine & Green Goddess Vinaigrette
A lobster salad was effective, though not particularly exciting. The cool, creamy burrata made sense against the supple chunks of lobster, and I liked the bitterness from the arugula here too. The juicy, sweet citrus was another great addition, while the vinaigrette did a nice job in tying everything together.


Artichoke Salad [$15.00]
Next up was a special of the evening. The artichoke was nice enough when taken with the greens, but the Parmesan I found overpowering, imparting a saltiness to the dish that stole the show from the star ingredient.


Grilled Octopus Salad [$16.00] | Baby Kale, Wood Fired Kumquats, Oven Blistered Cherry Tomato, Pancetta & Warm Sherry Wine Vinaigrette
I'm a huge fan of octopus, and almost always order it, but the version tonight was a disappointment for a couple reasons. The octopus itself was borderline mushy and nondescript, and could've benefitted greatly from a touch of crisp char. At the same time, the kale came overdressed, limp, and soggy, while the tartness of the kumquats didn't quite make sense to me either. Just muddled and clumsy overall.


Baby Broccoli, Fresh Ricotta, White Anchovy & Roasted Garlic [$16.00]
Time for some pizzas, which definitely do not stick to the napoletana style if that's your thing. Our first of two was polarizing. I appreciated the bitterness of the broccoli here, and how that transitioned to the ocean-y salinity of the anchovy, all while the creamy ricotta base bound the disparate elements together. However, my dining companions weren't quite as enthused, finding the fishiness of the anchovy completely overwhelming. As for the crust, I actually enjoyed it, finding it crisp enough, with a bit of loft--it was almost Mozza-like.


Fingerling Potato, House Cured Pork Belly, Fresh Rosemary & Caramelized Onion [$16.00]
Our next pie was much more approachable, with the potato pairing well with the pork, even if the belly was on the overly salty side. It did add a lovely crunchiness to the pizza though, and the herb-y nuances from the rosemary were much appreciated.


Risotto Frutti di Mare (Red) [$20.00] | Manila Clams, Mussels, Shrimp, Bay Scallops, Shallots, Garlic, Parsley, Chili Flakes, White Wine & Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Being the risotto fiend that I am, this was of course a must-try. Things worked out pretty well here, with the various seafood items conveying their ocean-y savors thoughtfully, though texturally, the rice was of the soft side of al dente.


Tortellini [$22.00] | Pork & Prosciutto Filling, Roasted Carrot - Celery - Leek Broth & Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano
The tortellini, on the other hand, was much less successful. The combination of pork, prosciutto, carrot, and celery seems like it would make sense, but the flavors just clashed, resulting in a foul, jumbled mess. The word insipid comes to mind.


Brussels Sprouts - Pine Nuts, Crispy Guanciale [$8.00]
The Brussels was one of the few dishes that I couldn't really find fault with. Crisp, charred, and wonderfully astringent, the sprouts were spot on, and made even better with the addition of guanciale.


Wild Alaskan King Salmon [$26.00] | Shallot Herb Crosta & Riso Nero
At this point, we moved on to some more substantial dishes. Now, I appreciate a properly rare salmon, and this one was done nicely so, but it was fishy. And I don't mean a good fishy, which I enjoy, but a discomforting fishy that made me question the provenance of the salmon itself.


Niman Ranch Double Pork Chop [$32.00] | Wood Oven Roasted, Roasted Garlic - Pan Juice - Rosemary Sauce, Braised Mustard Greens & Baby Carrots
The pork chop fared better, but still wasn't close to a prime example of the dish (for that, see Playground). The meat came out a tad overdone, with a somewhat disconcerting texture, and though its flavor was agreeable, it was dominated by the liberal use of rosemary. Various veggies provided a temper to the heft of the chop, though I wasn't keen on the limpness of the carrots.


Roasted Fingerlings, Cipollini Onion & Balsamic [$8.00]
Nothing wrong with some hearty roasted potatoes, though the onions didn't seem necessary.


Oven Roasted Asparagus & Parmesan [$8.00]
Asparagus could've been done better. The spears came out on the tough side, and their inherent bitterness, which is part of the beauty of asparagus, was hidden by the salty sprinkles of cheese on top.


Desserts here are the responsibility of Pastry Chef Heather Taylor, who comes to us from Cake Junkie bakery in Bryan, Texas. Click for larger versions.


Ricotta Fritters [$10.00] | House Made Ricotta, Passion Fruit & Strawberry Crème Fraiche
Ricotta fritters were a touch dry on the inside, though properly crisp, with a pleasant sweetness that made sense with the tart fruit nuances in the dish.


Butterscotch Bread Pudding [$12.00] | Candied Pecans, Toasted Marshmallow, Brown Butter
Bread pudding arrived hot and hearty, with a boatload of nutty, sweet flavors vying for attention. Unabashedly sugary, and oh-so comforting


Sorbet Trio [$10.00] | Seasonal Flavors
The requisite sorbet/ice cream dessert is something that I almost always avoid, but the threesome here I actually enjoyed. The banana ice cream did a great job capturing the essence of the fruit (recalling a version I'd had recently at Rustic Canyon), while the strawberry sorbet was positively bracing. Last up was the pistachio, the sweetest of the trio with the nut coming through toward the finish.


Rhubarb Crostata [$12.00] | Almond, Goat Cheese & Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Taylor's rhubarb dessert reminded me of a similar strawberry ricotta crostata that I'd tried at Tar & Roses in Santa Monica, not a bad thing mind you. In fact, it was my favorite of her creations, with the fruit melding beautifully with the pastry, all while the ice cream integrated and enveloped the dish.

Jeremy Strubel left Sirena not long after the place opened, and as such, the restaurant has been running without a chef for a while now. Unfortunately, the absence of any tangible direction in the kitchen shows. Though there were a few standouts, the food in general lacked any particular zeal or inspiration, while flavors were often times blunt and muddled. Desserts were more on point, but overall the cooking reeked of mediocrity. Changes in leadership and direction are needed if Sirena's to remain afloat. The location's actually quite nice, and the service, coordinated by Michael Nemcik, was laudable as well, but management needs to seriously reevaluate here, perhaps gather some inspiration at Bestia or Sotto, and bring in an actual chef to revamp and execute the menu.

Animal (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

April 27, 2013, 7:30 pm

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Animal Restaurant
435 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.782.9225
www.animalrestaurant.com
Tue 04/09/2013, 07:30p-10:15p



At this point, Animal is pretty much required eating for food-focused Angelenos, and is undoubtedly the place where visiting culinary dignitaries come to dine, and cook. Recently though, I discovered that a friend of mine (an LA native and self-described foodie, no less) had never tried Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo's often-times raucous, yet surprisingly refined cooking. Hell, it'd been a while since my last visit here as well, so, as such, we scrounged up a reservation and gave the place another go (I was especially interested given that I'd just found out that Alex Chang from Paladar was working here).


Animal's menu remains much as it's always been, inscribed in increasing order of heftiness and featuring a number of old standbys (see poutine, pig ear) in addition to new dishes. To drink, wine's the main story here--a cool, global list compiled by Operations/Beverage Director Helen Johannesen. Click for larger versions.


Sitting across from me was none other than Michael Nemcik, whom you might remember from Sirena and LudoBites. He brought along a couple of small-lot, boutique-y, Rhône-varietal wines from Santa Barbara County, the first of which was the 2012 Blair Fox Haylee's Rose. It was as fun and fruity as it looked, a blend of Grenache and Syrah grapes loaded with bright berry aromas and even more fruit on the palate, all nicely balance by a touch of crisp minerality.


fried cauliflower, tahini, white anchovy, wild rice, lemon [$12.00]
Given my penchant for cauliflower, this was obviously a must-order item, and boy, did it ever deliver. In fact, I might go as far as to say that this was the best that I'd ever eaten. The anchovy just added a fantastic depth and savor to the vegetable, which was then utterly balanced by the brightness of the lemon and herbs in the dish. At the same time, the cauliflower was spot on texturally, and the use of puffed rice contributed even more complexity and interest to the course. A masterpiece rendered in Brassica.


shrimp & rabbit sausage spring roll, minutina, green curry [$13.00]
These spring rolls beat out all the ones that I've encountered at Chinese restaurants, no question. I loved how the sweetness of the shrimp was so forcefully and faithfully conveyed, and how the wrapper offered up such a perfectly crisp and savory counterpoint to the filling. The rolls were delicious alone, but the accompanying green curry and minutina just took things over the top.


spicy beef tendon chip, charred onion pho dip [$7.00]
Tendon chips were sort of like the ultimate cracklin': fluffy, yet crunchy on the tooth, with a subtly beefy taste that was masterfully paired with the rich, in-your-face blast of goodness from the pho dip.


beef heart, paprika, dill-crème fraiche, potato, pickled beets [$12.00]
Corazon was similarly enjoyable, offering up a hearty blast of meatiness with a fascinating textural component, tarted up with a sprinkle of paprika. I loved the salty crunch from the chips here, and how the crème fraîche brightened up the dish. Hell, even the beets were good, offering up a sweet 'n' sour succulence to the mix.


With the rosé all drunk up, it was time for the 2011 Blair Fox Grenache Blanc, a weightier expression of a Rhône varietal, much heavier on the tongue with a mix of hay, citrus, and underlying boozy tones.


pig ear, chili, lime, fried egg [$12.00]
The pig ear that I had on my first visit here remains my all-time favorite, and is probably still the best example in the City. The stars of the show are clearly those crisp, chewy, unabashedly savory strips of oreille, perfectly fried and gorgeously complemented by the chili, lime, and scallion present. If that wasn't enough, the egg, wonderfully liquid, added a rich, runny, enveloping lushness to the dish that just tied everything together. There's a reason why this almost never leaves the menu.


pig tails, "buffalo style," celery, ranch [$11.00]
If someone wanted to replace Buffalo wings with Buffalo tails, I wouldn't protest given the examples here. They had all the spicy, savory goodness of the traditional dish, but with the added textural complexity from the use of pork tail. I certainly enjoyed them alone, but the celery, radish, and ranch just worked, completing the classic flavor profile in laudable fashion.


kampachi tostada, herbs, fish sauce vinaigrette, peanut [$15.00]
Next up was a version of the famed hamachi tostada that Aziz Ansari (prolly my favorite comic these days) always raves about. The dish hasn't skipped a beat due to the substitution, because it was flawless, as in there was nothing, nada that I wanted to change. The kampachi alone was spot on, but the real magic was with the fish sauce, which added a bevy of flavors and facets to the amberjack that worked hand-in-hand with the fragrant herbs and crunchy peanuts in the dish. An absolute must-try.


veal tongue, west indian gherkin, steelhead roe, black mustard [$16.00]
Veal tongue was oh-so satisfying: smoky and unabashedly savory, with a good bite to it and a well-placed hit of salt from the trout roe. I'd love to make a sandwich out of this.


Going off of the wine list now, we ended up with the 2006 Côte-Rôtie, 'La Chavaroche,' Bernard Levet, Northern Rhône [$132]. This paired well with the heartier fare to follow, showing off a palpable meatiness bounded by nuances of pepper and red fruit. Lovely in the mouth, and definitely a wine of substance.


charred octopus, stewed yellow eye bean, pistou, dandelion [$14.00]
Sadly, given that we were passing around each dish to share, I failed to grab a piece of the octopus in time. It certainly looked promising though, and the remaining beans were absolutely delightful as well. I'm sure I would've loved this.


kung pao sweetbreads, english pea, szechuan peppercorn [$16.00]
Here, the kitchen reworked the Szechuan classic to incorporate sweetbreads; the result was pretty smashing. The organ meat arrived supple and mild, even appealing to the more tentative diners at the table, and was finished off beautifully by the kick of the peppercorn. An explosion of savory, spicy flavors, masterfully moderated by the levity of the peas and other associated greenery in the dish.


crispy pig head, short-grain rice, bulldog sauce, soy egg [$16.00]
Tête de cochon was presented here in globular form, showing off a mouth-watering heft that was heightened even further by the sweet and umami notes from the tonkatsu sauce. The soy egg and rice, meanwhile, provided an offset to the strong flavors at play, rounding out this Asian-inflected dish commendably.


flat iron, sunchoke hash, truffle parmesan fondue [$28.00]
The flat iron, unfortunately, was the least successful item on the menu. The hash was much appreciated, and I was rather fond of the Parm fondue, but the steak itself I found somewhat lacking, both in terms of taste and texture.


The next pick was the 2008 Spanna, Massimo Clerico, Coste della Sesia Piemonte [$98], which some of us weren't as enthralled with. It was perhaps a bit thin, definitely light, with a nice bouquet and juicy red fruit notes. Not bad, but I suppose it just didn't have the consequence that people were looking for.


poutine, oxtail gravy, cheddar [$18.00]
Next up was one of Animal's signature dishes, a mainstay on the menu if there ever was one. We're talking big, dark, salty flavors from the oxtail, a bit of cheesy goodness, and some great fries. It may not be the model of finesse, but it satisfies.


At this point, the kitchen sent out an off-menu special consisting of a Flintstones-style turkey leg that's brined, smoked, then fried, taking the better part of a day to prepare. It certainly beat out the versions I've picked up at the fair, arriving tender and flavorful, delectable alone, and even better with a dab of the included BBQ sauce and a bite of that celeriac slaw.


veal brains, vadouvan, apricot puree, carrot [$14.00]
The brain was obviously a bit of a challenge to the more squeamish diners at the table, but even they gave in eventually. It really wasn't off-putting at all, with the crisp, yet creamy organ melding well with the spicy nuances from the vadouvan, all while the carrot and apricot added further blasts of color and contrast to make you forget that you're eating brain.


braised rabbit legs, snap peas, mushrooms, potato puree, mustard jus [$29.00]
Our final savory gave us rabbit in leg form. The meat was prototypical of the animal: tender, and yes, tasting a bit of chicken, while the potatoes and mushrooms just made plain sense. The key here, though, was the mustard and pea, which really imparted a sense of balance and proportion to the course.


Before dessert, we were provided a shot of pomelo ice with Tokaji gelée, a bright, bracing palate cleanser that did its job admirably, expertly blending the citrus fruit with the sugariness of the wine.


bacon chocolate crunch bar, s&p ice cream [$8.00]
Time for the saccharine stuff. We began, fittingly, with Animal's signature dessert, a possible progenitor to all those savory-sweet things that are all the rage these days. It's a deft mix of chocolate-y, nutty, and salty, one that never fails to satisfy. And the addition of the S&P ice cream? Spot on.


page mandarin sherbet, cheesecake, sour grass, meringue [$8.00]
A couple of my dining companions were a bit taken aback when this came out. After all, how could guys known for Kit-Kat desserts and tres leches come out with something that looked like it belongs in Jordan Kahn's repertoire? The taste, though, I think convinced them. The base of sweet, tart cheesecake flavors worked out surprisingly well with the grassy granité here, and the addition of the meringue was the proverbial icing on the cake. Maybe a bit weird, but wonderful.


blueberry, frozen brown butter crumble, yogurt, bay leaf ice cream [$8.00]
Speaking of Animal's more modern desserts, this one was arguably even better, acting as a sort of deconstructed and reconstructed blueberry pie, with a faultless interplay between the crumble "crust" and the fruit, all while the yogurt and ice cream added the requisite lightness to the fray.


tres leches, dulce de leche [$8.00]
And of course, we closed with the restaurant's famed tres leches, as good as ever with its saturated consistency and multifaceted sugariness. Straightforward, but sort of profound at the same time. Excellent.

I think there's still this perception out there that all Dotolo and Shook are capable of is in-your-face, blunt, meat-heavy cooking. Hell, even Food & Wine just called it "stoner-dude grub." That would be selling them short, though, as the food is so much more than that. In fact, I'd go as far as to say that their lighter dishes may even outshine the more substantial ones. Really, the kitchen here is a master of balancing heft and levity, of melding the high brow with the low. The result is cuisine that's smart, precise, and unabashedly of-the-moment. In fact, it's been utterly of-the-moment for the past five years, and shows no sign of stopping, thank god. And no, I didn't miss the foie gras at all.

Bludso's Bar-&-Que (Los Angeles, CA)

May 1, 2013, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Black Hogg (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Bludso's Bar-and-Que
609 N La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.931.2583
www.barandque.com
Thu 04/04/2013, 07:30p-09:40p





The biggest barbeque news to hit LA in the past several years is no doubt the launch of Bludso's Bar-&-Que. The restaurant debuted to eager Angelenos on February 18th, and represents a somewhat gentrified expansion of Kevin Bludso's eponymous BBQ joint in Compton, widely considered the best in the Southland. Bludso has partnered with Golden State's Jason Bernstein and Jason Starr here, and the trio has installed none other than former LA Weekly food writer Noah Galuten as pit master.

About the Chef: Kevin Bludso hails from a family that's been barbequing Central Texas-style for four generations, though his parents moved out to California during their teenage years, eventually settling in Compton. His father exposed him to the merits of good barbeque early on, and at age nine, his mother started sending him to his grandmother's back in Texas, all in an effort to keep him out of trouble. Grandma Willie-Mae Fields ran a roadside BBQ shack in Corsicana, and taught the young Bludso all she knew of the craft, passed down to her from her own father. He hated the work, and swore up and down that he'd never get into the food service business, but little by little, he began mastering the art of the smoky, long-cooked meat. However, after graduating college, Bludso followed in his father's footsteps, and secured a position at Los Angeles' Department of Corrections.

Bludso worked as a corrections officer for 11 years before leaving in his early thirties, sick of the job. Following, he focused on his catering business, which he'd done on the side for years, and then began hosting dinners at the Salvation Army in Compton. Slowly and surely, Bludso built a loyal following, which ultimately resulted in the opening of a permanent location in April 2008. The humble BBQ shop was discovered in due time and brought to the forefront of the LA dining scene via social media--bloggers, Chowhounders, and yes, even Yelpers. Soon enough, the spot had made its rounds among the foodie cognoscenti, and Bludso was serving a demographic that he'd never even imagined before (hell, he even catered for Yeezy a while back). As such, I don't think we were too surprised when plans for the Bar-&-Que were announced last June.


The restaurant resides in the structure once occupied by Mark Peel's The Tar Pit. The space has been thoroughly redone, the former tenant's clubby environs replaced by a harder, sparer, much more casual aesthetic, draped in shades of grey.


The menu at Bludso's Bar-&-Que can be thought of as a condensed version of the original, featuring the most popular Ole Hickory-smoked meats as well as all the sides and even dessert (made by Nancy Lyons, Galuten's mother), though the weekend-only Angus beef ribs are nowhere to be found here. We ended up running the gamut, sampling everything on the menu. Meanwhile, to drink, you'll find a smattering of beer and wine (corkage is $15) along with a surprisingly formidable cocktail list created by Bernstein and GM Zak Fishman. Click for larger versions.


Julep on Tap [$10.00] | evan williams bourbon, mint, sugar, bitters
Jackpot [$10.00] | bonded bourbon, ginger syrup, lemon, soda
Speaking of cocktails, we of course had to start with their Julep on Tap, the most popular drink on the menu and a great version of the classic, with a bright mintiness to it that worked beautifully against the whiskey as well as the smoky meat. The Jackpot, meanwhile, was also enjoyable, with a bracing ginger spiciness that also served as a fitting counterpoint to the BBQ.


Baked Beans [$4.00]
Our first side was the baked beans. I appreciated the incorporation of meat into the dish, adding a blast of salty weight to the beans, but the sweetness here was a bit much for me. Behind the beans you'll notice two types of homemade sauce: mild (white bowl) and hot (brownish bowl). The mild is tomato-based, with molasses, and thus had a sweet, spicy character to it along with a fairly viscous consistency. The hot, which I preferred, was a touch thinner, with a vinegar-y heat that could creep up on you.


Half Pork Ribs [$14.00]
Pork ribs were one of the highlights of the night. The meat wasn't quite falling-off-the-bone, but I certainly didn't have to expend much effort either, easily extracting the tender, flavorful meat and reveling in its spicy-smoky crust.


Cornbread [$3.00]
Cornbread was on point: sweet, gritty, and moist, a natural accompaniment to the BBQ.


Hot Link [$4.00]
Sausages are made in-house I believe, and were surprisingly delicious, with a juicy, fine-grained consistency and a subtle undercurrent of heat. They'd work great in a hot dog I'd imagine.


Collard Greens [$4.00]
Collard greens were just about perfect, quite possibly the best I've had in fact. Cooked to a wonderfully supple consistency, they showed off a lovely bitterness to them along with some salty, savory notes as well.


1/2lb Pulled Pork [$10.00]
Pulled pork displayed mounds of smoky, mouthwatering, porcine goodness that I thoroughly enjoyed, especially when taken with a dab of hot sauce. However, the meat came out a touch dry, and could've stood to be juicier, more succulent.


Bread & Butter Pickles [$3.00]
Pickles were bright and crisp, with a marked sweetness to them, just like you'd expect.


1/2lb Rib Tips [$9.00]
Rib tips were perhaps the "meatiest" tasting item of the night, with a nice smoky component and a straightforward savoriness to them. My only concern was that parts of the meat were on the chewy side at times.


1/2lb Brisket [$11.00]
And now we come to the brisket. It's what many regard as Bludso's signature dish, and with good reason. It was certainly my favorite item of the evening, showing off a beautiful balance of beefy and smoky flavors, with just enough spice to let the meat really sing. Lovely tenderness and juiciness here, too, making this a must-try.


Jalisco Honey [$11.00] | bombay dry, mezcal, campari, punt e mes
The Jalisco Honey could almost be thought of as a Negroni with mezcal. I rather liked it, finding a great interplay between the gin and bittersweet flavors of the Campari and vermouth, all while the mezcal added a focused smokiness to the mix that mimicked the flavors of the meat.


Mac & Cheese [$5.00]
The macaroni and cheese was a prototypical presentation of the dish, with a particularly high cheese content it seemed, though the noodles themselves could've been firmer.


Half Chicken [$9.00]
Chicken was a surprise hit of the night. I went for the drumstick, and found it moist and supple, with a marked smokiness to it that complemented, but didn't overwhelm the natural flavors of the bird. The breast wasn't quite as luxurious naturally, but was nevertheless enjoyable as well. Give this a shot.


Coleslaw [$4.00]
Also a winner was the coleslaw, which turned out to be one of the strongest preparations I've had. I adored the crunch of the veggies here, and how their bright, bracing, acidic flavors tempered the potency of the meat.


Potato Salad [$4.00]
Last up was the potato salad. I'm a big fan of it in general, and the version here didn't disappoint, offering up a classic interpretation of the dish that worked gorgeously alongside the BBQ.


Red Velvet Cake [$5.00]
It might have something to do with the color, but I'm always drawn to red velvet, and the version tonight was surely one of the best I've had. I loved the moistness of the cake, and how its sweet, but not overly sweet taste paired with the tangy icing.


Scoops Ice Cream [$4.00]
Scoops-supplied ice cream (also found at Golden State) was of the salty vanilla variety, and was excellent, conveying all that's great about vanilla, but with a creeping hit of savoriness on the back end.


Apple Pie [$5.00]
A by-the-book apple pie rounded out the desserts: nice crust, crisp apples, and great with the aforementioned ice cream, but it could've stood to be served warmer.

For various logistical reasons, I'd never made it out to the Bludso's in Compton, so I don't exactly have a basis for comparison here against the original. That being said, I can understand the appeal of the place. I'm not a huge barbeque guy, but this is my style: smoky and slow-cooked, with multifaceted seasonings and a focus on the meat itself and not the sauce. It sorta wants to make me explore the genre further. So Bludso's BBQ is finally out of the 'hood and in LA proper, replete with a smart cocktail program, surprisingly decent service, and a hipsterish vibe--I bet Kevin never saw this coming.

Black Hogg (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

May 5, 2013, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: Fishing with Dynamite (Manhattan Beach, CA)

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Black Hogg Restaurant
2852 W Sunset Blvd, Silver Lake, CA 90026
323.953.2820
www.blackhogg.com
Wed 04/10/2013, 07:45p-10:20p



One of my favorite debuts of 2012 was Black Hogg, the freshman effort from newcomers Eric Park and Jonathan Kim. Chef Park's generous, robust, and undeniably satisfying cooking impressed me, and since the restaurant reopened with a liquor license last November, I figured that it was time for a revisit, to see how the place was holding up a year in.


The interior space has been subtly updated. You'll notice the more prominent bar (replete with beer taps), a slightly smaller dining area, and, of course, the new bathrooms to the left (a requirement for the liquor license I'm told).


The current Black Hogg menu reads similarly to what Chef Park was offering up before. A few of the signatures (the lamb burger, the popcorn bacon, the tacos) remain, while new dishes make up the balance. The bigger news concerns the booze selection, which is composed of a focused, smart, reasonably-priced list of wines and beers. Click for larger versions.


As with my first visit, I decided to bring along a few bottles of beer from my stash, this time featuring some esoteric European selections. The first was the De Glazen Toren Jan De Lichte, a lovely, though not entirely prototypical example of the Belgian witbier style. The beer was light and utterly refreshing, a model of dry, crisp flavors that blended spice, herbs, and citrus in harmonious fashion.


ROAST MARROW BONE [$10.00] | Cilantro Radish Salad, Corn Tortillas
The bone marrow was pretty ridiculous, as in ridiculously good. I have no doubt that it was either the best or second best I'd ever had (with the other contender being Bryant Ng's transcendent sambal'd version at Spice Table). The marrow itself was slippery and trembling to the touch, an expert presentation of the ingredient that was flawlessly counteracted by the combination of radish, cilantro, and onion. Set into a soft tortilla, the whole experience was like eating the best taco you've ever had, a perfect mélange of fat, acid, and crunch.


BRUSSELS SPROUT HASH [$9.00] | Twice Cooked Brussels, Market Potatoes, Bacon Vinaigrette, Poached Egg
Brussels were a must-try, naturally, and didn't let me down. I loved the texture on these--still slightly crunchy--as well as their savory char, amplified by the bacon dressing. Potatoes added a bit of a moderating element to the dish, while a poached egg just makes everything better.


PORK BELLY TACOS [$10.00] | House Cured Roast Salmon Creek Farms Pork Belly, Apple Slaw, Jalapeño Relish
Speaking of the best taco you've ever had, this is pretty much it for me, as far as non-traditional preparations go. It was a perfect dish really, with the fatty, yet crisp rectangles of belly melding beautifully with the countervailing crispness of cabbage, red onion, and apple, all while the jalapeño offered up an undercurrent of heat to things.


My second beer was an Italian, the Birrificio Italiano Fleurette Gioia Di Vivere, brewed with roses, violets, elderberry, citrus honey, and black pepper. Pretty cool--I tasted the advertised floral nuances up front, which then transitioned quickly and powerfully to the sugary smack of honey, all while a base of sourness prevailed.


LECHÓN ASADO FRIES [$13.00] | Snake River Farms Roast Kurobuta Pork, Kennebecs, Mojo de Ajo, Queso Fresco, Crispy Pork Skin, Onion & Cilantro
Park utilized lechón to good effect here, producing what's basically like the best carne asada fries you've ever had. The pork displayed a delightful crispness to it, along with a rather profound, earthy savor that paired wonderfully with the queso, all while the onion-cilantro combo added a much-needed brightness to the fray. Topping things off was the mojo de ajo, a piquant, spicy condiment that served as the proverbial icing on the pastel. An inherently slutty dish, made a bit more classy.


LAMB AND RICE [$16.00] | Roast Lamb Belly, Jasmine Rice, Fennel Harissa Slaw
The first appearance of the namesake hogg was similarly delicious, and uppity version of the famous halal chicken/lamb and rice perhaps? The lamb itself was pretty insane, an in-your-face blast of ovine goodness rendered in fat and lean. I loved how the rice here tempered the sheer intensity of the meat, while the creamy white sauce enveloped and integrated everything. The best part, though, was that fantastic slaw, which imparted a perfectly-placed crunch and acidity to the course.


BUTTERY LAMB BURGER [$17.00] | Ground Butter and Lamb, Habanero Onions, Onetik Bleu, Fries
Park's signature lamburger is one of my favorite ones in the City. The crux here is the patty, which really is on the buttery side. Rich and flavorful, with a good char, it folded in the blue cheese seamlessly, while the onions added a jolt of acidity and crunch to the mix. The French fires, not surprisingly, were spot on too, a natural accompaniment to the burger.


Last up was the Brasserie Des Franches-Montagnes (BFM) Douze, a beer from Switzerland that was brewed with the addition of fleur de sel de Guérande. There were some herby, fruity, and yeasty notes that weren't unexpected, but the use of salt added a distinct savory undercurrent in the beer that was hard to describe. I don't think I've had anything quite like it before.


JAMAICAN AIRLINE CHICKEN [$19.00] | Jerk Marinated, Grilled Half Jidori Chicken, Garlic Scallion String Beans
Chicken arrived tender and positively succulent, with the sweet, spicy, smoky jerk seasoning adding multiple facets of flavor to the bird. The green beans were on point as well, with a delightfully squeaky bite to 'em and a great garlicky flair.


OCTOPUS CHANA MASALA [$21.00] | Grilled Spanish Octopus, Market Potatoes, and Chickpeas
In our final savory course, Chef Park riffed on the classic Indian dish of chana masala, pairing it with octopus. Indeed, the cephalopod was dutifully prepared to a tender, yet still satisfying consistency, with a delightful char component as well. Its pairing with the chickpea mash was surprising, yet successful, imparting the octopus with a myriad of spicy, savory, and sour nuances that definitely clicked. Based on this, I wouldn't mind seeing the kitchen explore more in terms of Indian-inflected dishes--aloo tikki anyone?


FIVE MILKS BREAD PUDDING [$8.00] | Brioche, Brown Butter Apples, Toasted Pecans
Our sole dessert (we were burstingly full by this point) comprised Park's interpretation of bread pudding. It may not have been much to look at, but boy did it deliver on taste. In fact, it was without a doubt one of the strongest bread puddings I've eaten, conveying a perfect blend of sweet, spicy, and nutty flavors, all deftly tempered by a dollop of fluffy cream. I just wanted to keep going, despite my fullness.

On my first visit, I found myself rather enamored with Park's lusty, meat-heavy, and most importantly, uncompromisingly delicious cooking, and that sentiment remains. In fact, the food is probably even stronger today, a deft blend of in-your-face brashness and unflappable balance that's even better now that you can get booze. It might just be the best dining option in Silver Lake at the moment, and is surely worth a visit (especially now that they're offering reservations), so go.

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After dinner at Black Hogg, we went up the street to pay a visit to the inimitable Matt Biancaniello, who's now tending bar at Cliff's Edge on Wednesdays.


He started us off with a bit of his punch, a scarlet concoction comprised of gin, lemon, housemade Bergamotcello (pictured separately to the right), Champagne, and blood orange. We picked up on the perfume-y, tea-like essence of the drink right away, an intoxicating fragrance that paired just swimmingly with the gin and sparkling wine. A fun, quaffable cocktail, but with a palpable complexity and substance.


Biancaniello then served up an off-menu drink made with Surinam cherries, lavender, lime, agave, and Hendrick's. This one was also to my liking, a juicy expression of sweet and tart that flowed seamlessly between the flavors of gin and agave, all while the sprig of lavender contributed wonderfully fragrant overtones to the cocktail.


We ended with the Hanky Panky, a blend of Bols genever, lovage, paige mandarins, Aperol, and ghost pepper salt that I'd actually had before at one of Roberto Cortez's dinners. This is a cocktail that's definitely not for everybody. The flavors were unapologetically forward, a blast of savory, spicy, and astringent nuances that danced on the palate with the sweet citrus and aromatic jenever influences.