Eveleigh (West Hollywood, CA)

November 29, 2012, 7:30 pm

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The Eveleigh Restaurant
8752 W Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
424.239.1630
www.theeveleigh.com
Thu 11/29/2012, 07:30p-09:50p





Named after a suburb of Sydney, Eveleigh (say it like "everlee") has been one of the hottest WeHo debuts in recent years. The restaurant was opened by the Down Under trio of Nick Hatsatouris, Nick Mathers, and Lincoln Pilcher (Kingswood, Dudley's, Ruby's, Rugby Club in New York), along with fellow Aussie Jordan Toft (I keep wanting to say Tosh), who serves as Executive Chef. As is all the rage these days in Los Angeles, Eveleigh offers up rustic, market-driven, farm-to-table, French-Italian-inflected modern American fare--not exactly groundbreaking food, but I figured, two years in, it was worth trying out.

About the Chef: Chef Toft grew up in the suburb of Guildford in Sydney, and started cooking at the ripe age of 16. In 1997, he moved to Sydney proper, and spent six years under noted Australian chef Peter Doyle, first at the now-shuttered Celcius, and later at Est, where he became Sous Chef. Following, Toft worked at a chalet in the French Alps, then transitioned to a personal chef role for a Saudi businessman in 2006, which allowed him to travel throughout Italy and Spain. He left in 2010 to start work on Eveleigh, which bowed on November 1st that year.



Eveleigh occupies a historic 1923 residence once occupied by a Kenneth Cole store. The structure isn't much to look at from the front, but it's a different story inside. The decor by Nick Mathers is, unsurprisingly, filled with reclaimed, repurposed, raw, and rustic elements, making for an urban-farmhouse-chic sort of aesthetic. In the front, there's a large, shiny bar surrounded by tables, allowing for a peek into the open kitchen and glass-encased wine cellar. However, everybody knows that the best seats are in the back patio, with its retractable ceiling and sweeping views of the City.


Eveleigh's menu reads well, focusing on approachable dishes rooted in Californian and European traditions, and I do like the presence of housemade charcuterie. In addition, there's even lunch service on Fridays, as well as brunch on the weekends. To imbibe, the cocktail program here is definitely of note, featuring sort of an old-school-meets-farmer's market vibe. Sasha Petraske of the vaunted Milk & Honey in NYC was involved early on, but was superseded by Dave Kupchinsky/Ol' Man Winter (The Tar Pit, Comme Ca) a month in; he was later joined by Kiowa Bryan (Lexington Social House) and Kevin Tidwell (Thirsty Crow, Little Dom's) in mid-2011. On the wine side, the selection here was originally crafted by opening Sommelier Jason Ditto (ex-The Bazaar), and shows off a heavily Aussie/New Zealand-influenced list, with a nod to small, interesting producers from California and France as well. Click for larger versions.


Johnny Hammersticks [$12.00] | bourbon, coffee-infused Carpano Antica, Campari, chocolate mole bitters
My first cocktail came highly touted by our server Margaret (who reminded me a bit of Amy Poehler, interestingly enough), and she was right on the money. I loved the subtly saccharine, almost medicinal flavors from the vermouth here, moderated by the complex bitterness of the chocolate-coffee combo, all while the Campari added a bittersweet tinge to the drink. Definitely worth a try.


Crisp Squash Blossom [$14.00] | fresh goat cheese & yogurt, espelette, lemon
We began with fried squash blossoms, which turned out to be some of the tastiest I've had. The crispy, savory smack of the fritters was spot on, and went perfectly against the creamy, lactic tanginess of the cheese and yogurt; the lemon, meanwhile, added a great touch of acidity to things.


Grilled Monterey Squid [$12.00] | aioli, lemon, olive oil, chili flakes
Squid is almost always a must-order for me, and didn't let me down tonight. I thoroughly enjoyed its bite and snap, as well as its saline, savory flair enhanced by a smidge of char astringency. To that, the aioli and lemon added countervailing nuances that took the squid to the next level. Yum.


Patatas Bravas [$8.00] | fried russet potatoes, thyme, rosemary, sea salt, chili pepper allioli
I'm a sucker for potatoes, and Toft's version of the classic tapas dish was one of the highlights of the evening. Fried to a wonderful crispness, they were salty, savory, and oh-so satisfying, with a deft herbaceous temper from the rosemary-thyme, while the alioli served to both punctuate and integrate the course.


Crudo [$14.00] | californian olive oil, pickled organic apple, finger lime, smoked salt, apple balsamico
The crudo tonight featured salmon, and the fish itself was on point: clean, slightly fatty, with a good brine. The apple and lime added some much-needed acidity to the dish, but the olive oil was a bit much. I would've liked a lighter hand with the stuff, to let the other ingredients shine more.


Poor Carlito [$12.00] | Milagro tequila, fresh lime, honey, smoked sea salt
Margaret also pointed me to the Poor Carlito, which turned out to be another smart recommendation. The tequila was clearly the star of the show here, but the contrasting flavors of citrus and honey really made the cocktail work, all while the sea salt provided a thin veil of smokiness to the drink. Utterly balanced.


Oysters on the Half Shell [$3.00/each] | champagne mignonette granita
Oysters were of the Kumamoto variety if I recall correctly, and were prototypical examples of the style: plump and crisp, with a sharp minerality. The accompanying mignonette granité, meanwhile, added a bracing chill and tartness to the bivalves.


Bone Marrow Persillade [$16.00] | garlic, parsley, smoked salt, bread crumb
Bone marrow's another item that I have a hard time passing up. Toft did a commendable job with this preparation: fatty, trembling, and really classic in essence. The use of persillade was a smart move too, providing a garlicky, herb-y counterpoint to the marrow, and I appreciated the slight crunch imparted by the bread crumbs to boot.


Rossotti Goat Stew [$21.00]
One of the specials tonight was this stew, featuring grass-fed goat from Petaluma's Rossotti Ranch. Indeed, this was very "goat-y," with boatloads of rich, dark, sticky character and an undeniably tender, falling-apart consistency, offset by the avocado and a nice crunchiness from the yam chips. Some pretty intense flavors here--this one's not for everybody!


Eveleigh Burger [$19.00] | selection of dry aged cuts, fontina, tomato-chorizo relish, pickles, mustard aioli, french fries
Naturally, we had to try the restaurant's signature hamburger. The most striking thing about it was how "beefy" the patty (a varying blend of several cuts, including kidney) was. It definitely gave off that intense dry-aged character, which actually melded seamlessly with the Fontina here. Given the heft of the meat-cheese combo, I really appreciated the levity provided by the pickles and onions, making for a delicious, very well-integrated burger overall. The fries were a fitting accoutrement as well: nicely crisp, with a lovely herb-y zing. I found them tasty alone, and even better with a dab of ketchup or the optional truffle aioli [$2].


Penicillin Cocktail [$12.00]
My final cocktail was the off-menu Penicillin, which was first devised by Milk & Honey's Sam Ross. I was rather enamored with it. I loved the smokiness on the nose courtesy of the Islay, which continued on to the palate, where it was joined by more boozy notes and a superb temper in the form of zesty ginger and citrus, as well as smooth, sugary honey.


Raw Bloomsdale Spinach [$14.00] | golden raisins, pine nuts, ricotta salata, olive dust, sherry-lemon dressing
Moving on to something lighter now, this salad was nice, with the bitterness of the crunchy spinach playing off of the sweet raisins in admirable fashion, while the grated ricotta added a salty, cheesy weight to things. Perhaps my favorite element here, though, was the olive dust, which added an intriguing, overarching piquancy to the dish.


Pappardelle [$19.00] | twelve-hour braised ragu, parmigiano reggiano
Next was a delightful dish of pappardelle. The ragù itself really spoke to me, offering up an immensely satisfying, undeniably hearty savoriness with an almost Asian-y tint to it that went flawlessly with the slick, snappy pasta.


Of course, we made sure to save room for dessert. Click for larger versions.


Warm Doughnuts [$12.00] | spiced sugar, plum jam, whipped cream
Our first dessert comprised some wonderfully soft, fluffy donut holes, dusted with a sweet spice that made them hard not to like. They stood well on their own, but the paired plum jam and whipped cream did add some further points of interest to the dish. Nice!


Chocolate Chip Cookie Sandwich [$8.00] | mint chocolate chip ice cream
Last up was Eveleigh's ice cream sandwich, which ended up looking more like an ice cream burger! It was as good as you'd expect, with the minty ice cream working swimmingly with the chocolate cookies--I just wish there was more of it.

In the end, I was pleasantly surprised by my experience here. Toft is serving up the type of rustic-yet-modern, comfort food-ish cooking that seems pervasive in LA's current culinary Zeitgeist, but he's doing a good job at it. It's the type of cuisine that most anybody can enjoy, and I do appreciate the honest, ingredient-driven nature of the plates. Cocktails, meanwhile, were impeccable, and service was commendable as well, making Eveleigh a smart choice for the Sunset Strip.

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Plate by Plate 2012 (Los Angeles, CA)

August 4, 2012, 6:00 pm

≫ Next: The Parish (Los Angeles, CA)

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Plate by Plate 2012
214 S Main St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
www.platebyplate.org/la/
Sat 08/04/2012, 06:00p-10:00p





On Saturday, August 4th, Project by Project hosted its 10th Annual Tasting Benefit, Plate by Plate, at the Vibiana cathedral and event space in the heart of Downtown Los Angeles. For the uninitiated, PbP is a nationwide not-for-profit organization focused on issues relating to the Asian-American community, and as always, the event showcased the culinary chops of some of the City's most popular and up-and-coming eateries, all washed down by a selection of liquor, wine, beer, sake, and even non-alcoholic beverages from a wide array of purveyors.


The requisite group photo of all the participants.


Accompanied by The Langham's Director of Communications Elsa Schelin, Chef David Féau of The Royce presented an attractive plate of Marinated Cantaloupe, Kampachi, Toasted Ginger.


Elsa is joined by FOX 11 News anchor/reporter Susan Hirasuna, whom I actually ran into during the recent C.H.E.F.S. foie gras dinner held at The Royce.


Chef Greg Daniels of Haven Gastropub & Brewery was on hand with his Cola-Glazed Berkshire Pork, Smoked Cream Corn, Garroxta, Thyme.


The Seoul Sausage team--Ted Kim, Chris Oh, Yong Kim--served up their Flaming Fried Balls: Deep Fried Spicy Pork Seoul Sausage Cheesy Kimchi Fried Rice Balls topped with Da "DMA" Sauce (Kimchi Sriracha Garlic Jalapeño Aioli). The trio recently competed on Season 3 of the Food Network's Great Food Truck Race, which they may or may not have won, and which may or may not have anything to do with their upcoming brick & mortar store in Little Osaka.


Chef Mathew Woolf of the revamped West Restaurant & Lounge had his Crispy Egg, Bacon Jam, Arugula on offer, which seemed to go over well with guests.


Though Chef/Owner Kris Yenbamroong was over at that other food festival across town, Night+Market had another "Kris" in tow: Sous Chef Chris Napaamporn. To eat, think Moo Sadoong "Startled Pig": Grilled Pork Shoulder, Lime, Fish Sauce, Bird Eye Chile, Basil, Lemongrass, Kaffir Lime Leaves, Sugar, Rice Powder.


Guelaguetza was en la casa with their Tamales Oaxaqueños: Black Mole and Chicken Breast Tamales wrapped in Banana Leaf, as well as their famed Michelada.


Sharing is encouraged between participants. Here, Jason Mattick of Milo & Olive swaps his sliders for some of Guelaguetza's mole-drenched tamales.


Chef Jeremy Berlin has been doing a fine job over at Church & State, and tonight he gave us a refreshing Heirloom Tomato Salad, Charentais Melon, Vinaigrette with Greens and Reduced Balsamic.


Left: Former ink. GM-cum-Sommelier Josh Goldman looks rather contented here, and for good reason.
Right:Sauce LA's Mary Park, looking lovely in red.


The award for the most interesting protein of the night goes to Team Mo-Chica and their Alpaca and Lamb crostini, Pickled Cucumbers, Avocado, Aji Amarillo Yogurt dressing.


With Andre Guerrero out of town, Little Bear was repped by Chef de Cuisine Sainegee Wong and Pastry Chef Jan Purdy. Their dish? A Carbonnade de Flamande.


Recently replacing Walter Manzke at Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan's Milo & Olive is Chef Jason Mattick, who showed off his Mini Chicken Meatball Sandwiches with Fresh Mozzarella and Country Line Harvest Arugula.


Chef de Cuisine Kevin Luzande of Playa rolled deep, serving up a svelte dish of Maize Cornet, Chopped Salad of Rooftop Vegetables and Lettuces, Chipotle Crema, Avocado, Micro Amaranth.


A highlight of the VIP hour was a cooking demo hosted by Chef Nyesha Arrington of Wilshire restaurant (and Top Chef Season 9 contestant), who utilized tofu from producer AFC.


An open bar sponsored by Ketel One was certainly a big draw.


Left: PbP's Manager of Campaign Partner Relations Jackie Fung and Co-Manager of Past Partner Relations Stephanie Huynh.
Right: Justin Wang, Director of Events for Project by Project New York, along with Los Angeles Legal Counsel Annie Lin.


Left: Short-haired Asian girls stick together!
Right: PbP's Manager of Design Risa Yanai looks happy.


PbP partnered with TOMS and Viva La Art to have some specially-decorated shoes auctioned off at the event. Artists included Adam Talan and Nora Martin-Hall, and I hear Eater LA editor Kat Odell even won a pair.


Stepping inside of the Vibiana now, whom do I see first but the Mo-Chica/Picca duo of Ricardo Zarate and Stephane Bombet, along with noted Pour Vous barman Devon Espinosa.


I first headed over to the VIP area, where Pablo Moix was repping Black Market with his Pisco Punch.


The Cured Wild King Salmon Tartare, Crispy Buckwheat, Nori Crème Fraiche and Ikura from Providence's Michael Cimarusti was regarded by many as the prettiest plate of the evening.


Left: Michael introduces himself; Josh checks his phone.
Right: Brothers Eric Tung and David Tung. Getting a sort of American Gothic vibe on this one.



Kali Dining's Kevin Meehan served a trio of dishes: Duck Mousse, Grapes, Gel, Almond Powder; a Savory Corn Pudding, Vegetable Chips, Zucchini, Olive Dust; and Lamb Belly with Onion Ash, Carrot-Ginger Jam, Crispy Pea-Sesame Soil.


Here was an Artichoke and Fava Paella with Chicken and Pork, courtesy of Chef Perfecto Rocher of Lazy Ox Canteen.


Tasty Clouds' founder Nina Rodecker was on hand to offer up a variety of her haute cotton candies.


Scarpetta at Montage Beverly Hills sent a dish of Branzino as well as Sous Chef Victor Boroda (quite the shutterbug himself it seems).



The ever-ebullient Nguyen Tran was of course all about getting people to sample Starry Kitchen's Citrus Sesame Tofu and Salted Plum Lychee Panna Cotta, prepared by his wife and chef Thi Tran.



Sharing a table were Short Cake and Short Order. Short Order, helmed by Chef Christian Page, presented Pretzel Pups: Smoked Beef & Bacon Link, Sauerkraut, Grainy Mustard, Pretzel Bun, while Short Order's Head Baker Hourie Sahakian brought along a variety of baked treats.


Left: Restaurant Relations team member Danny Li and Margaret Lin.
Right: Director of Operations Ray Warriner with his date Theresa Kiang.


Neal Fraser and Amy Knoll Fraser's Fritzi Dog will be launching soon, but the even bigger news is that Grace's replacement (which will not be named Grace) will finally be getting off the ground, taking over the space currently occupied by the Vibiana's rectory building. Plans call for both indoor and outdoor dining rooms, a bar, a separate bar/lounge on the second floor, and a number of private dining rooms.


Chef Hiroyuki Fujita served up a hearty Beef Tongue Curry: Chopped Beef Tongue with White Rice, Curry Sauce and Pickles for Downtown Japanese curry slinger Fat Spoon.


Sadie Chef Jason Petrie injured himself recently, and thus had to pull out as a food purveyor at the last moment. However, the Hollywood newcomer still managed to deliver with a selection of three cocktails: the Friar Fresh (Plymouth Gin, Velvet Falernum, Lemon Juice, Grapefruit, Honey), the Veev Gveev (Vodka, Chartreuse, Grenadine, Lemon, Fresh Berries, Orange Juice), and the Guayabera (Basil Infused Avion Tequila, Lemongrass, Watermelon Syrup, Lime Juice, Soda, Chili Salt Rim).


PbP Co-Manager of Event Productions Risa Abarientos and her boyfriend seemed to have enjoyed Sadie's cocktails.


Drunken Udder Ice Cream's Matt Donley was on hand to serve up his company's alcohol-infused frozen treats in four flavors: Bourbon Salted Caramel Ice Cream, Lemon Basil Sherbet with Lemon Vodka, Raspberry Orange Sorbet with Orange Vodka, and Chocolate Espresso Sorbet with Espresso Vodka. Booze and ice cream? How has anyone not thought of this before?


Celebrity caterer Jack Lee's Chinoise Cuisine put out some Filet Mignon & Grilled Shrimp fresh wraps with Mint Leaves with sweet and tangy dipping sauce.


Jar's Chef de Cuisine Preech Narkthong offered up a duet of desserts: their signature Jar Chocolate Pudding and a Butterscotch Pudding, Salted Caramel.


Chef Seakyeong Kim from Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale's embraced his Korean heritage with his Gochujang Glazed Lamb Belly in Steamed Bun.


Right next door to Charlie Palmer was Broadway, the new-ish restaurant by CP's former head chef Amar Santana. His sticks of Crisp Pork Belly, Miso-Caramel Togarashi, set in a bed of grass, may have been the evening's most interesting presentation of food.


Chaya Downtown's Chef Atsushi Kenjo cooked up a plate of Stone Fruit & Fromage Blanc, Jamon Serrano with Sherry, Vinegar Gastrique.


Fluff Ice co-founder Matthew Hui was on deck with four varieties of his shaved ice: Honeydew, Original, Mango, and Thai Tea, all served with a bevy of accompaniments.


Surprisingly, 9021Pho's Kimmy Tang wasn't slanging pho, but rather her version of a Chicken Salad.



Laurent Quenioux was defiant in his serving of foie gras at the event. It came as a "Hure" of Foie Gras, Salmon Roe, Smoked Eel, Lobster Gelee, Vietnamese Shiso as well as in "sashimi" form. He also featured bread from newcomer bakery B1 Breadshop, with dozens of pieces available for patrons to take home.


With her cooking demo done, Chef Nyesha Arrington came over to sample some of Laurent's wares.


XT Patisserie co-owner Tuan Trinh had a colorful spread of macarons for us to try.


Beverage Director-slash-Partner Jeffrey Faust for fundamental LA had two dishes for guests to consume: the Pickled Floret, Avocado, Crispy Shallot, Thai Coconut Sauce and the Vanilla Panna Cotta, Black Pepper Granola, Sorrel


Longstanding Plate by Plate participant Akira Hirose and his restaurant Maison Akira gave out a Braised Pork Belly "Kakuni" with Yuzukosho Kabocha Coulis.


Marcus Baird's Feast Catering presented several dishes, including a Blue Cheese Studded Yorkshire Pudding with Slivered Beef and Horseradish Crème Fraiche.


The charcuterie program over at Wood & Vine is arguably the best in the City, and we were happy to have Chef Gavin Mills present a trio of his House-Made Charcuterie at the event.


Stepping back outside now, I ran into former Project by Project team member Yulree Chun, who was here representing Gogobot, a new socially-focused travel site.





The St. Germain-sponsored cocktail challenge got underway, pitting Chris Hewes, Gia St. George, and Devon Espinosa against each other to see who would prevail with the top cocktail incorporating the elderflower liqueur. When all was said and done, it was Library Bar's Chris Hewes who would reign supreme with his whimsically-named "Gettin' Figgy With It."


Left: Restaurateur-of-the-moment Bill Chait was in attendance with girlfriend Julie. As reported earlier, he's partnering with Neal Fraser to take over the Vibiana.
Right: Perfecto Rocher with Ibérico Fresco's José Ignacio Martínez-Valero, importer of fresh 100% jamón ibérico products from Spain.


Somehow, during my first sweep through the garden area, I'd managed to miss Rustic Canyon. The restaurant offered a dish of Sweet Corn and Rosemary Fritter with Honey Crème Fraiche, presented by new head chef Jeremy Strubel.


Co-Manager of Restaurant Relations Joy Bitonio just happens to be the girlfriend of Chef Jeremy.


More PbP'ers: Manager of Design Risa Yanai, Director of Marketing Rosanna Huang, Co-Manager of Team and Leadership Development Irene Choi, and Co-Manager of Multimedia Paul Kim.


Left: Our Director of Fundraising Sunny Chung and friends.
Right:DineLA director Stacey Sun, with beau Josh Lurie of Food GPS.


Jeremy Crooks on stage performing, in between sets by DJ Freddy Ruxpin.


This year, the Plate by Plate ice sculpture doubled as an ice luge.


Left: Director of Events Marian Bacol-Uba along with National Director of Events Oanh Nguyen (and previous Los Angeles Director of Events), with Lindsey Wang.
Right: Events Team member Vickie Chan.


Left: Event planner Amy Ling with husband Paul Lee, VP Director of Purchasing at Hing Wa Lee Jewelers.
Right: Angela Park working it at the silent auction station.


Left: Devon Espinosa looking quite smug with his stache.
Right: Longtime PbP fixture Sherwin Goo, along with former PbP team member Helen Kim.


Left: Playa CdC Kevin Luzande is smiling for a good reason.
Right: PbP NY President Eleanor Lem, PbP National General Counsel & Secretary Nirendran S. Kathirithamby, and PbP LA Legal Counsel Annie Lin.


Taking the stage: Argentine-Australian-Korean actor Leonardo Nam.


Left: Irene Choi and budding restaurant investor Caroline Choe, along with Jennifer Sanderson.
Right:Bricia Lopez having a good time with Perfecto.


Director of Partner Outreach Eden Tol with past partner Michelle Freridge, Executive Director of the Asian Youth Center.


Left: PbP PR/Social Media Manager Camellia Cheng and acquaintances.
Right: The unmistakable duo of Ramiro Arvizu and Jaime Martin del Campo from La Casita Mexicana.


Wong Fu Productions in the house.


Left: Director of Events Marian Bacol-Uba with PbP team member and noted Hello Kitty fiend Kayla Vu.
Right: Is she pulling Eden's tongue?


Left: Perhaps a punch is more effective.
Right: Soft like pillows.


Left: National Director of Marketing Grace Hsiang with LA Director of Marketing Rosy Huang.
Right: PbP Operations team member Christie Liu, with Clayton Tran.


Yes, that's none other than former MasterChef Season 3 contestant Felix Fang (who works at Katsuya here in LA). It's too bad she got the boot on the last episode; I was really rooting for her to win the whole thing!



Having fun with cake toward the end of the night.



Previous Plate by Plate posts: 2011, 2010

The Parish (Los Angeles, CA)

August 14, 2012, 8:40 pm

≫ Next: Patina (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

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The Parish Restaurant
840 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.225.2400
www.theparishla.com
Tue 08/14/2012, 08:40p-11:20p





The last thing LA needs is another gastropub.
Despite that, one of the year's most anticipated openings is The Parish, a "true gastropub" from The Tasting Kitchen's Casey Lane. Plans for the Downtown eatery were revealed way back in September last year, and though the restaurant debuted just weeks ago on July 27th, it's already fast becoming one of the summer's hottest tables.


The Parish is situated in a skinny sliver of land bounded by Main and Spring streets. The space, in fact, was the former home of Angelique Cafe, but has since been completely redone by Venice-based firm Bishop Pass (Gjelina, M Street Kitchen, Abigaile). It's split into two levels: a bright, casual cafe on the ground floor highlighted by the open kitchen, and the dark, clubby, masculine main dining room up top (pictured).


The Parish's menu reads gastropub-y for sure (with a definite Indian slant to boot), serving up an appealing selection of booze-centric fare. Apparently, there's even a breakfast menu in work. Click for a larger version.


As for the tipple, we have John Coltharp (The Tasting Kitchen, Copa d'Oro, Seven Grand, Sona) in charge of the beverage program. He offers up around a dozen classically-leaning cocktails, along with 20 or so craft beers on draft, as well as a smattering of wines by the glass or bottle. Aiding Coltharp is none other than Brian Summers, who we may remember from Harvard & Stone, Sotto, Test Kitchen, Library Bar, The Bazaar, and Comme Ça. Click for larger versions.


Black Bee [$12.00] | Bourbon, Lemon Juice, Honey, Stout
The Real McCoy [$13.00] | Rhum Agricole Blanc, Pot Still Jamaican Rum, Lime Juice, OJ, Orgeat
While waiting for our table to clear, we started things off with a cocktail twosome. The Black Bee was quite something, with a really complex, multifaceted character that subtly conveyed the chocolate-y, malty essence of the stout/porter, while the lemon added a well-placed touch of levity to things. The Real McCoy, on the other hand, showed off a fruity, tropically-tinged sweetness up front, transitioning to the booziness of the rum on the midpalate, all with tangy, overarching notes of citrus accenting the entire drink.


Deviled Eggs [$6.00]
I'm known to be quite the egg slut, so these deviled darlings--tarted up by the inclusion of curry, chile, fennel, vinegar, and a crème fraîche aioli--were naturally a must-try. They were certainly tasty, and rather unlike any other preparation I'd had before, with an aromatic, spicy, curried attack leading to a satisfyingly creamy egginess, all with a piquant undercurrent from the vinegar.


Haricots Verts [$13.00] | Grilled Peaches, Garam Masala, Burrata
Haricot verts were crunchy, waxy, and on point, with bright, verdant flavors that actually went surprisingly well with the sweetness of the peaches. Bits of potato added a definite heft to the dish, and, of course, I appreciated the burrata as well, its luxuriousness offering up a keen counterpoint to the levity of the green beans. Very nice.


Wood-Grilled Bone Marrow [$15.00] | With Celery Salad
Bone marrow was exactly what you'd expect: fatty and trembling, classic in design, with great depth in the flavor department, all tempered by the bright, peppery smack of celery. Bone luging is an option here.


Poutine of Crispy Pork Shoulder [$14.00] | With Paneer, Crackling & Peas
The poutine over at Animal has pretty much become legendary by this point, but Lane's version may be an icon in the making. The fries themselves were spot on, forming a delectably savory, yet moderating base to the dish. On top of that we had positively scrumptious shards of crispy pork and supple cubes of cheese, a winning combination that was duly offset by the inclusion of peas (I tasted flashes of mattar paneer), as well as a delightful herbiness that lingered on through the finish. Definitely one of the best poutines that I've had.


Fresh Gin Gimlet [$12.00] | English Gin, Lime Juice, Hint of Sugar
Disco Nap [$16.00] | Grappa, Aperol, Muddled Lemon, Mint
Time for some more cocktails. First up was the Fresh Gin Gimlet, which was very classic in style, really conveying the inherent nature of the gin, while perfectly balancing it against the tart-ish lime. The Disco Nap, meanwhile, was also quite tasty, with a deft mix of bitter and sweet flavors that melded seamlessly with the aromatic, grape-y essence of the grappa.


Burger [$17.00] | With Epoisses, Pickled Carrots
Now here we have The Parish's requisite hamburger, the simply titled "Burger." The real crux of the course was the utilization of Époisses, which happens to be one of my favorite types of fromage. Those of you who've had the cheese will know that it's got quite a pungency to it, and in fact, here it added just enough funk to augment the potency of the patty (seriously, if you're not a fan of stinky cheeses, you might want to stay clear of this one). Simultaneously, the pickles and greenery in the burger provided a much needed shot of brightness and acidity to the fray, making for an enjoyable, though not typical eating experience. My only concern was the bun, a rosemary ciabatta bread; it was perhaps a touch too chewy.


Mojama [$16.00] | Duck Egg, Truffle, Potatoes
Here's something new: Mojama is basically salt-cured tuna of the Spanish variety. I'd never had it before, but took to it rather quickly. I appreciated its unmistakable saltiness, a nice counterpoint to the intense truffled notes present, while potato provided a hearty, savory component to the dish. And the runny, gooey duck egg? Yeah, hard to go wrong with that.


Fried Chicken [$23.00] | With Grilled Peaches, Tomatoes & Currant Vinaigrette
Fried chicken arrived in breast, thigh, and drumstick form. I picked up the latter, and thoroughly enjoyed its tender, succulent, and oh-so savory character, the meat encased in a light, but not too light crust that almost recalled a KFC-like goodness. The various fruits and veggies here added some tart, tangy counterpoints in the dish, but really, the bird stood alone on its own merits. Yum.


Fish & Chips [$20.00]
Our last savory item of the night was Lane's take on the traditional fish & chips, featuring battered cod, celeriac remoulade, cornichon gelée, and malt vinegar aioli. It was actually quite wonderful, probably the best interpretation of the dish I've had. The fish itself was tender and almost fluffy in texture, with a light coating of lager-infused batter and a lip-smacking flavor that really showed off the nature of the cod. The large, flat slices of potato were commendable as well, and I really appreciated the cool, refreshing crunch of that remoulade. A great change of pace from your everyday fish 'n' chips.


The Nightshift [$13.00] | Bourbon, Czech Fernet, Espresso, Pu-Erh Tea and Chocolate Syrup, Milk
Housemade Pomegranate-Lemon Soda [$6.00]
Next up, we ordered up The Nightshift, which had an appealing mix of boozy, coffee, and chocolate flavors that really went swimmingly with dessert. We also tried The Parish's delicious pomegranate and lemon soda, made in-house of course.


Gulab Jamun [$4.00]
For the sweet stuff, first was Pastry Chef Brooke Mosley's take on the ubiquitous Indian dessert of gulab jamun. It was actually a pretty straightforward version of the dish: not too sweet, with a nice floral character from the rosewater and a marked nuttiness from the sprinkles of pistachio.


Sticky Toffee Pudding [$7.00]
We closed with a sticky toffee pudding. It was everything that I'd expected from the dessert: deep, dark, and unabashedly saccharine flavors with a mouth-watering caramel component, all balanced out by the tartness of plum.

I may be sick of gastropubs, but Lane's got a good one on his hands here. For the most part, the flavors were robust and heady, perfect for alcoholic consumption, and the cooking shows a certain sensibility and aesthetic that seems to jive with LA's current culinary Zeitgeist. It really is a welcomed addition to the Downtown dining scene. The Chef is not content with just The Parish, though. Come October, he plans to debut Itri, a pasta and rotisserie concept set in the building formerly home to Evan Kleiman's Angeli Caffe. I'm guessing that that one should be worth the wait, too.

Patina (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

August 16, 2012, 8:00 pm

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Patina Restaurant
141 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.972.3331
www.patinarestaurant.com
Thu 08/16/2012, 08:00p-02:05a




Since debuting all the way back in 1989 (when it was still located at the current site of Providence), Joachim Splichal's flagship Patina has been a mainstay on the Los Angeles dining circuit. Certainly, the place hasn't always been the trendiest, the hippest, or the most of-the-moment, but what it has done is consistently turned out fine dining-focused fare, and given birth to a veritable mini-empire of other PRG restaurants. Over the years, Patina has played host to a number of chefs, and the latest in that line-up is one Charles Olalia, the restaurant's former sous who replaced Tony Esnault in June. Esnault, it turns out, has teamed up with Church & State's Yassmin Sarmadi, and the two are planning to open Spring in Downtown, a French restaurant situated on the spectrum somewhere between bistro and fine dining (sounds like Walter Manzke's upcoming République). But that's not the only part of the kitchen shake-up. Former Pastry Chef Joel Reno left late last year to open his own pastry shop, Baguetier in Huntington Beach, and has since been supplanted by Kasra Ajdari, whom you may recall from Raphael.

About the Chefs: Chef Olalia was born in the Philippines, and after taking on an interest in food at an early age, attended and graduated from the International School for Culinary Arts and Hotel Management in Manila. Following some time spent in his homeland, Olalia moved Stateside, landing at the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay. In 2008, he became a chef de partie at the Las Vegas outpost of Guy Savoy, under Executive Chef Eric Bost (who has since decamped to helm Savoy's Singapore restaurant). Afterwards, Olalia served as a commis at Thomas Keller's famed French Laundry, then became Executive Sous Chef of the Village California Bistro in San Jose. From there, he moved on to a gig at Oracle, then, sick of the corporate world, he left and staged at a number of places in the Bay Area, including the Michelin-starred Dio Deka, Dan Patterson's two-star Coi, and Chris Kostow's three-star Meadowood. Olalia then relocated to Southern California in 2010, finding employment at Patina under Tony Esnault. After working here for two years, he assumed the Chef de Cuisine role in June 2012 following Esnault's departure.

A Southern California native, Kasra Ajdari's interest in food grew from inside his family's kitchen, under the tutelage of both his parents and grandparents. After graduating from Valencia High School in 2001, he enrolled at the University of California, Santa Barbara and was well on his way to becoming an attorney before he started experimenting with bread baking at home. This weekend hobby soon consumed his free time, and he decided that his future would be in the food industry. In pursuit of that goal, he attended the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena after finishing up at UCSB in 2007. While still in school, he was introduced to Adam Horton, and after graduating from the CSCA's Le Cordon Bleu program in 2009, Ajdari quickly found employment under Horton at Saddle Peak Lodge. He followed Adam to Studio City's Raphael in early 2011, but left in February to take on the Pastry Chef role left vacant by Patina's Joel Reno.


Inside, things have largely remained the same since my last visit, with perhaps the notable exception of the lighting being distinctly less yellow (a blessing for photographers).


As far as Patina's menu goes, the standard à la carte selections and seven-course tasting menus are still available, joined now by a more affordable "Market Menu" offering. We, however, opted for an extended, by-special-request-only 15-course Grand Menu Degustation at $150 per head, plus $90pp for wine pairings by Sommelier Silvestre Fernandes. Click for larger versions.


Olalia commenced with his amuse bouche of chilled sweet corn soup, with crostini and chive oil. It was a great start to the meal, chock full of bright, refreshing, summer-y nuances. The corn was certainly sweet, but not overly so, and I appreciated the saltiness and crunch contributed by the toast, as well as the offsetting tang of the chive.


Bread on offer this evening included pain de epi baguette, seven-grain, and green olive varieties.


1: Watermelon Gazpacho | Japanese Octopus, Pedro Ximenez
Trefethen, Dry Riesling, 2008, Napa Valley
The summertime spirit started by the corn soup continued on through our first course proper. Tender, yet chewy slices of octopus were spot on, joined by an amalgam of cilantro, cucumber, celery, and various other elements that made for a delightful mix of disparate textures and tastes. A watermelon liquid with garlic and olive oil, meanwhile, contributed an enveloping, integrating dash of sweet and savory that beautifully wrapped everything together.


2: Dungeness Crab Fraicheur | Mango, Avocado, Basil
Pazo Barrantes, Albarino, 2010, Rias Baixas, Spain
A fraicheur of crab was refreshing to say the least, living up to its name. Indeed, the Dungeness was on proud display here, its saline sweetness becoming the clear hero in the dish, melding gorgeously with the mango. At the same time, a deft combination of microgreens, tomato gel, avocado mousse, and basil seeds lent a tart, herb-y bent to the course that rounded things out perfectly.


3: Heirloom Tomato Salad | Santa Barbara Sea Urchin, Soy Caramel
Pazo Barrantes, Albarino, 2010, Rias Baixas, Spain
The so-called "Heirloom Tomato Salad" has become a trite sight on menus these days, but Olalia's version was anything but. Tart red peppers joined with bright, juicy bits of tomato to form a sort of sweet 'n' sour complement to the lush, briny relish of sea urchin, while a broth of tomato water laced with bonito contributed a rich, savory, almost dashi-like flavor to the dish that smartly tied all the elements together.


4: Poached Hen Egg | Fresh Peas, Calamansi, Arugula
Château Toumilon, 2007, Graves, Bordeaux
The next course was ostensibly inspired by Chef Olalia's time at Guy Savoy, in particular a dish called Tout Petits Pois, or "Peas all Around." We had here a pea purée, fresh shucked peas, an arugula-calamondin foam with Tabasco, an Espelette pepper tuile, and microherbs, all with a beautifully poached egg. Indeed, the bright, verdant zest of the peas was forcefully conveyed here, augmented by the airy foam yet adeptly weighed down by the rich, luxurious, runny yolk. The tuile was also well-placed, offering up an offsetting crunchiness to the course, as well as a salty, savory component. I was particularly fond of the wine pairing here as well, a white Bordeaux that showed off a delectable vegetal component that worked wonderfully with the peas.


5: Santa Barbara Spot Prawns | Carrot, English Celery, Lemon
Elio Zanotelli, Mueller Thurgau, 2009, Trentino, Italy
Chef Olalia's presentation of spot prawn was successful in paying homage to the vaunted crustacean. The shrimp was cooked superbly, showing off a snappy, supple bite and a delicate taste keenly accented by a touch of lemon and olive oil. At the same time, a salad of celery contributed a crisp, clean brightness and countervailing astringency to the course, and I even enjoyed the spicy, ginger-y carrot mousse, which I'd feared would be overly sweet.


6: Weiser Farms Potato Gnocchi | Lobster, Summer Truffles, Haricot Vert
Elio Zanotelli, Mueller Thurgau, 2009, Trentino, Italy
Gnocchi were dense and doughy, yet with a certain appealing fluffiness that I appreciated. Along with the pommes mousseline, they formed a fitting base to the course that really allowed the snappy bits of lobster and crunchy green beans to shine, while the whole dish was integrated by an earthy veil of truffle. Interestingly, we likened this to a similarly-profiled porridge dish that we'd had recently at The French Laundry, and we all preferred this version.


Thalvin, S. De Siroua, Chardonnay, 2009, Zenata, Morocco
The kitchen inserted this special risotto per one of my dining companion's request. Based on zucchini, it was a perfect version of the dish for the summer time: light, with bright vegetal flavors over firm, al dente grains of rice, tied together by crème fraîche and tarted up by the inclusion of black garlic preserves. The fried zucchini blossom, meanwhile, added a lovely crunch and saltiness to the fray.


At this point, one of our servers brought out a beautiful pastry-encrusted black bass from Greece, and preceded to carve and plate the fish. You don't see tableside prep too often these days, so I definitely appreciated the effort.


7: Black Bass en Croute | Flavors of Barigoule
Valle dell'Acate Bidis, Chardonnay/Inzolia, 2006, Sicily
After being filleted, our loup de mer was dressed with a shallot-garlic-white wine-lemon verbena-lemongrass sauce, then accompanied by glazed carrot, artichoke, cipollini onion, bacon, and a dehydrated lemon tuile. The fish was right on: supple and delicate, with a fantastic lemon-y tone to it that really sang with the sea bass' various accoutrements, the salty bacon in particular.


8: Local Black Cod | Fresh Shelling Beans, Toasted Almond, Purslane
Valle dell'Acate Bidis, Chardonnay/Inzolia, 2006, Sicily
Black cod showed off a wondrous texture, with a near falling-apart consistency and a hefty, yet mild taste that was keenly highlighted by the piquant purslane and piquillo present. Shelling beans, meanwhile, did a great job in grounding the dish, but I was a bit less enthralled by the almond foam and toasted bits of almond, which seemed a tad too pronounced in their nuttiness.


9: Caramelized Scallops | Lilly Vegetables, Lardon, Maple
Miura, Pinot Noir, 2008, Silacci Vineyard, Monterey County
Maine diver scallops arrived with onion soubise, lardons, baby shallot, and a line of maple-balsamic. They were pretty much spot on, with a firm, yet yielding consistency, perfect caramelization, and a great show of salinity. I really enjoyed them with the various forms of Allium, their tanginess offsetting the richly-flavored scallops beautifully, but the real surprise was how well the sweet maple melded with the bivalves.


10: Snake River Farms Pork | Black Mission Fig, Fennel, Plum Radish
Prazo de Roriz, 2009, Douro, Portugal
Snake River pork made an appearance in two presentations: loin and belly. Loin can often seem a bit boring, but here it was delicious: tender and juicy, with a refined porcine relish that paired wonderfully with the herb-y, fennel notes in the dish. The belly, meanwhile, was also commendable, with a prototypically rich, fatty character underscored by a delightfully crisp, salty skin that showed off an almost chicharrón-esque flair.


11: Colorado Lamb | Eggplant Variation, Summer Peppers, Mint
Cuvelier Los Andes, Grand Vin, 2007, Mendoza, Argentina
In our final savory course, lamb was delivered to the table in a duo of preparations. I was definitely a fan of the expertly-cooked rack and its quintessential ovine flavors, delectable alone but also excellent when taken with a mix of Japanese eggplant, Indian eggplant, farro, and shishito peppers. As good as that was, though, the confit'd, shredded lamb meat stuffed in filo dough was even tastier, with a profound, heady richness and depth that was perfectly paired with its pastry crust.


The presentation of the cheese cart: always a pleasant sight.


Château Picque Caillou, 2007, Graves, Bordeaux
Six varieties of fromage were presented in an appealing cheese plate. We had, from front to back: Capriago, a subtly salty goat's milk varietal from Bohemian Creamery in Sebastopol, CA; a tangy, soft Sainte-Maure from France; Cowgirl's creamy, mild Cana de Cabra; the cow's milk Saint-Marcellin, with its mushroom-y flair; the legendary Époisses de Bourgogne, one of my all-time favorites; and finally the big, bold Caveman blue from Rogue Creamery in Oregon. Accompanying the cheese was French acacia honey, kalamansi compote, toasted hazelnut, and two types of bread.


12: Tom Kha Semifreddo | Gai Nougatine, Cilantro, Yuzu, Rau Ram
Yuki No Bosha Sake, Akita Komochi Daiginjo
With the savories dispensed with, it was time for new Pastry Chef Kasra Ajdari to shine. For our first dessert, he prepared a dish that he's planning to present at the upcoming StarChefs International Pastry Competition. It was a reimagined version of tom kha gai, the classic Thai soup made with coconut milk, galangal, lemongrass, chicken, and herbs. All the elements were well-represented here, with the dessert really capturing the essence of the soup. The sweetness of the semifreddo paired admirably with the lemon-y notes in the dessert, all while the cilantro and Vietnamese mint added a fantastic herbal tinge to the entire dish. The coolest thing here, though, was the use of chicken skin, its immense savoriness rounding out the course nicely.


13: Harry's Berries Strawberries | Crème Fraiche, Elderflower, Basil
Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee, 2007, Russian River Valley
Halved strawberries from vaunted producer Harry's Berries were accompanied by a crème fraîche custard, buttermilk ice cream, elderflower jus, basil, and a thin ribbon of strawberry tuile. The berries were clearly the hero in the dessert, really delivering the pure, unmitigated essence of the fruit, while the combo of crème fraîche and buttermilk added a creamy, lactic counterpoint to the berry. Fantastic herbaceousness from the basil, too.


14: Mango Bavarois | Sugar Plums, Star Anise, Pistachio
Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee, 2007, Russian River Valley
A mango-based Bavarian cream was joined by both raw and pickled sugar plums, candied pistachio, anise foam, chamomile, and microcelery. This made for a smart, multifaceted dessert with a laudable base of spicy-sweet flavors balanced by a distinctly herb-y, floral character, with the pistachio serving as a mitigating element


15: Chocolate Moelleux | Dacquoise, Passionfruit, Hazelnut Sorbet
Ramos Pinto Quinta Do Bom Retiro, 20 Years Old Port
The final, chocolate-based dessert played off the classic French dacquoise and featured hazelnut and chocolate meringues, chocolate mousse paper, hazelnut sorbet, as well as passion fruit. It was an effective use of the traditional flavor profiles, with a deft mix of chocolate-y and nutty flavors, all countervailed by the bright, tart, tangy nature of the fruit.


Mignardises comprised pistachio-rose bonbons, pistachio macarons, passion fruit-dark chocolate bonbons, strawberry-blueberry pâtes de fruits, and peanut butter and fudge chocolates.


The team: General Manager Kevin Welby, Sommelier Silvestre Fernandes, Chef de Cuisine Charles Olalia, Pastry Chef Kasra Ajdari.

Olalia and company managed to exceed expectations this evening, making this dinner my strongest meal at Patina to date. Compared to the food of his predecessors, the new Chef's cooking seems to be lighter in character, with a more casual, more Californian, less pronounced French bent to it. There's an effective emphasis on brightness, acidity, and astringency, along with intelligent incorporation of disparate textures. Ajdari's desserts, meanwhile, are keenly contemporary, managing to be novel (and beautifully plated) without seeming overwrought. Fernandes' wine pairings were praiseworthy as well, as was the service directed by Kevin Welby, making for a confluence of factors that resulted in a near flawless meal. I was a bit concerned when I heard that Tony Esnault was leaving, but the restaurant is holding up just fine, making now as good of a time as ever to (re)visit Patina.

Index of Posts

August 17, 2012, 7:15 pm

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≪ Previous: Patina (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

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Simply click a heading to reveal a comprehensive list of all visited restaurants in a given region.

California : South : LA/VE/BR (210 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
555 East	Long Beach	Steakhouses	$$$	-	13/20	n/r	May 2008
5weet & Savory	Los Angeles	American (New), Desserts	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2012
A-Frame	Culver City	American (New)	$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Oct 2011
Aburiya Toranoko	Los Angeles	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2011
Alma Pop-Up[1]	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2012
Amalur Project	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Oct 2012
Angelini Osteria	Los Angeles	Italian	$$$	BG	13/20	92.6	Jul 2009
Animal	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$	-	13/20	89.5	Sep 2009
Annapurna Cuisine	Culver City	Indian, Vegetarian	$$	-	13/20	n/r	Nov 2009
A.O.C.	Los Angeles	French, Wine Bars, Tapas Bars	$$$	BG	14/20	90.3	Sep 2009
Asanebo	Studio City	Sushi Bars	$$$$	*	15/20	93.8	Jan 2008
Ashoka the Great	Artesia	Indian, Buffets	$	-	n/r	n/r	Sep 2009
Bäco Mercat	Los Angeles	Spanish, Sandwiches	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2012
Bashan	Glendale	French, American (New)	$$$	-	15/20	n/r	Dec 2009
Bastide[3][2][1]	West Hollywood	French, American (New)	$$$	*	n/r	n/r	Mar 2011
The Bazaar[2][1]	Los Angeles	Tapas Bars, Spanish, Basque	$$$$	n/r	15/20	93.1	Jan 2011
Beachwood Brewing & BBQ	Long Beach	Barbeque, Breweries, Gastropubs	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2012
BierBeisl	Beverly Hills	Austrian, German	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	May 2012
Bistro 31	Santa Monica	American (New)	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Feb 2009
Bistro LQ	Los Angeles	French	$$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Jun 2010
Bistronomics 2.0 at Breadbar	Los Angeles	French, American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2011
Bistronomics Lucky 13 at Breadbar	Los Angeles	French, American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Oct 2011
Black Hogg	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2012
BondSt	Beverly Hills	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Sep 2009
Bouchon[1]	Beverly Hills	French	$$$	n/r	13/20	91.4	Jun 2012
Café Pinot	Los Angeles	French, American (New)	$$$	-	14/20	n/r	Nov 2010
Campanile	Los Angeles	Italian, American (New)	$$$	-	15/20	88.5	Oct 2012
Canelé	Los Angeles	French, American (New), Breakfast & Brunch	$$$	-	14/20	n/r	May 2009
Capo	Santa Monica	Italian	$$$$	-	14/20	88.5	Aug 2008
The Charleston	Santa Monica	Gastropubs, American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	May 2012
Church & State[1]	Los Angeles	French	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2010
Ciudad	Los Angeles	Latin American	$$$	BG	14/20	n/r	Sep 2008
Cleo	Los Angeles	Mediterranean	$$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Nov 2010
Cliff's Edge	Los Angeles	Italian, Mediterranean	$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Feb 2012
Cooks County	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2012
The Counter	Santa Monica	Burgers	$$	-	12/20	n/r	May 2008
The Courtyard	West Hollywood	Spanish, Tapas Bars, Basque	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Jun 2008
Craft	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	-	14/20	n/r	Jan 2008
CR8 Underground Dinner[3][2][1]	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2012
CUT[2][1]	Los Angeles	Steakhouses	$$$$	*	15/20	94.0	Mar 2009
Dal Rae	Pico Rivera	Steakhouses, American (Traditional)	$$$	-	13/20	n/r	Sep 2009
Dessert Hour with Chef Dan Moody at Scoops Westside	Los Angeles	Desserts	$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2011
The Dining Room at The Langham[2][1]	Pasadena	American (New)	$$$$$	*	n/r	n/r	Jul 2010
Drago	Santa Monica	Italian	$$$	-	15/20	89.5	Jan 2012
Drago Centro	Los Angeles	Italian	$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Jul 2009
Echigo	Los Angeles	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$	-	13/20	n/r	Sep 2008
Eveleigh	West Hollywood	American (New), Tapas/Small Plates	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Nov 2012
The Fat Cow	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Sep 2012
Fat Spoon	Los Angeles	Japanese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Aug 2011
Father's Office	Los Angeles	American (New), Burgers, Pubs	$$	-	QB	86.0	Mar 2009
Feastiality	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Aug 2011
Fogo de Chão	Beverly Hills	Steakhouses, Brazilian	$$$$	-	13/20	n/r	Oct 2008
Ford's Filling Station	Culver City	American (New), Gastropubs	$$$	-	13/20	n/r	Nov 2008
Fraiche	Culver City	Italian, French, American (New)	$$$	-	14/20	n/r	Dec 2010
Fraiche	Santa Monica	Mediterranean, French	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2009
Freddy Smalls Bar + Kitchen	Los Angeles	American (New), Gastropubs	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2012
Frenchy's Bistro	Long Beach	French	$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Oct 2006
Garden Room	Santa Maria	American (Traditional)	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2007
Giang Nan	Monterey Park	Chinese	$$	-	12/20	n/r	Feb 2009
Gjelina	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$	-	13/20	89.0	Jul 2011
Go's Mart	Canoga Park	Sushi Bars	$$$$	-	n/r	n/r	May 2007
The Gorbals	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Apr 2010
Gordon Ramsay at The London[1]	West Hollywood	American (New), Asian Fusion	$$$$	*	15/20	91.2	Sep 2011
Gorge	West Hollywood	Wine Bars	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2012
Grace[1]	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	-	15/20	n/r	Jun 2010
Gyenari	Culver City	Korean	$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Oct 2009
Hachi Sushi & Robata	Los Angeles	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2009
Hama Sushi	Los Angeles	Sushi Bars	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Jul 2011
The Hat	Alhambra	Burgers, American (Traditional), Fast Food	$	-	n/r	n/r	Dec 2009
Hatchi at Breadbar[3][2][1]	Los Angeles	Varies	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2010
Hatfield's[1]	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	*	15/20	91.1	Feb 2010
The Hungry Cat	Los Angeles	Seafood	$$$	n/r	14/20	88.0	Mar 2011
Il Grano	Los Angeles	Italian	$$$$	-	16/20	93.0	Mar 2012
Inaka Seafood Gourmet	Arcadia	Japanese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	May 2010
ink.[1]	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Oct 2011
Ira's Gourmet	Pasadena	Indonesian	$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2009
Izayoi	Los Angeles	Japanese	$$	BG	14/20	n/r	Aug 2009
Jar	Los Angeles	American (New), Steakhouses	$$$	-	14/20	91.6	Jan 2010
Jeon Ju	Los Angeles	Korean	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Sep 2008
Joe's Restaurant[2][1]	Los Angeles	American (New), Breakfast & Brunch	$$$	-	15/20	89.0	Sep 2011
Kagaya	Los Angeles	Japanese	$$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Aug 2010
Kali Dining	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2012
Kokekokko	Los Angeles	Japanese	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Apr 2009
L&E Oyster Bar	Los Angeles	Seafood	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	May 2012
La Botte	Santa Monica	Italian	$$$	*	14/20	n/r	Nov 2009
La Casita Mexicana	Bell	Mexican	$$	-	13/20	n/r	Oct 2009
La Poubelle Bistro	Los Angeles	French	$$	-	12/20	n/r	Dec 2011
Lawry's The Prime Rib	Beverly Hills	Steakhouses, American (Traditional)	$$$	-	13/20	88.0	Sep 2007
Lazy Ox Canteen[1]	Los Angeles	American (New), Gastropubs	$$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Apr 2012
Le Comptoir at Tiara Cafe	Los Angeles	French, Vegetarian	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2012
Little Bear	Los Angeles	Gastropubs, Belgian	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2012
Los Balcones del Peru	Los Angeles	Peruvian	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Mar 2010
LQ Fooding Around in LA at Starry Kitchen	Los Angeles	French	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	May 2011
Lucques	West Hollywood	American (New)	$$$	-	14/20	92.8	Jul 2010
LudoBites 2.0 at Breadbar[1]	Los Angeles	French	$$$	n/r	n/r	92.5	Aug 2009
LudoBites 3.0 at Royal/T[2][1]	Culver City	French	$$$	n/r	n/r	92.5	Dec 2009
LudoBites 4.0 at Gram & Papas[1]	Los Angeles	French	$$$	n/r	n/r	92.5	May 2010
LudoBites 5.0 at Gram & Papas[1]	Los Angeles	French	$$$	n/r	15/20	92.5	Jul 2010
LudoBites 6.0 at Max[1]	Sherman Oaks	French	$$$$	n/r	n/r	92.5	Oct 2010
LudoBites 7.0 at Gram & Papas	Los Angeles	French	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Aug 2011
LudoBites 8.0 at Lemon Moon[1]	Los Angeles	French	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2012
Lukshon	Culver City	Asian Fusion	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2011
Magnum Crew at Pal Cabron	Los Angeles	American (New), Mexican	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2011
Magnum Crew at Royal/T	Culver City	American (New), Japanese	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2011
Maison Giraud	Pacific Palisades	French	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2011
Marcona	Los Angeles	Sandwiches	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2012
Mario's Peruvian Seafood	La Mirada	Peruvian	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2010
Mashti Malone's	Glendale	Ice Cream & Frozen Yogurt	$	-	QB	n/r	Feb 2007
Matsuhisa	Beverly Hills	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$$$	-	16/20	94.4	Aug 2010
Maximiliano	Los Angeles	Italian	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2012
MB Post	Manhattan Beach	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2011
Mélisse[1]	Santa Monica	American (New), French	$$$$$	**	18/20	92.0	Jun 2012
MessHall	Los Angeles	American (Traditional)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Sep 2012
Mezze	Los Angeles	Middle Eastern, Mediterranean	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2011
Milo & Olive	Santa Monica	Pizza, Bakeries, Italian	$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	May 2012
Mo-Chica	Los Angeles	Peruvian	$$	n/r	13/20	90.3	Aug 2009
Mo-Chica {7th St}	Los Angeles	Peruvian	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2012
Momed	Beverly Hills	Mediterranean, Middle Eastern	$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Feb 2012
Moreton Fig	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2010
Mori Sushi	Los Angeles	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$$	*	15/20	93.8	Mar 2011
Muse	Beverly Hills	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	16/20	n/r	Oct 2009
Musha	Santa Monica	Japanese, Asian Fusion	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Oct 2009
n/naka[1]	Los Angeles	Japanese	$$$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Jun 2012
Nakkara on Beverly	Los Angeles	Thai, Asian Fusion	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Apr 2010
Neptune's Lounge	Los Angeles	Korean, Seafood, Sushi Bars	$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Nov 2009
Newport Seafood	San Gabriel	Chinese, Seafood	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Dec 2009
Night + Market[2][1]	West Hollywood	Thai	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2012
Niwattori	Torrance	Japanese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2009
Nobu	West Hollywood	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Apr 2011
Nozomi	Torrance	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2009
One Sunset	West Hollywood	American (New)	$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Apr 2009
Ootoro Sushi	Walnut	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2012
Original Tommy's	Los Angeles	Burgers, Fast Food	$	-	QB	n/r	Dec 2008
Orris	Los Angeles	Tapas Bars, Japanese, French	$$$	-	14/20	n/r	Jan 2011
Ortolan	Los Angeles	French	$$$$	*	15/20	n/r	Nov 2007
Osteria Mamma	Los Angeles	Italian	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	May 2010
Osteria Mozza	Los Angeles	Italian	$$$$	*	13/20	93.0	Feb 2009
Paladar Underground Restaurant	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2011
Pan Am Room	Santa Monica	Latin American	$$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Jan 2011
The Parish	Los Angeles	American (New), Gastropubs	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Aug 2012
Patina[2][1]	Los Angeles	French	$$$$$	*	17/20	94.0	Aug 2012
Petrossian	West Hollywood	French	$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Feb 2010
Pheast Underground Dinner	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2011
Picca[1]	Los Angeles	Peruvian	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Dec 2011
Piccolo	Los Angeles	Italian	$$$	-	13/20	n/r	Jul 2011
Pizzeria Mozza	Los Angeles	Pizza, Italian	$$$	BG	13/20	8.5	May 2009
Plan Check Kitchen + Bar	Los Angeles	American (New), Gastropubs	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2012
Playa[1]	Los Angeles	Latin American	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2012
Post & Beam	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2012
'Pri-vē at Tiato	Santa Monica	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2011
Providence[2][1]	Los Angeles	American (New), Seafood, Asian Fusion	$$$$$	**	17/20	96.0	Aug 2009
R23	Los Angeles	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$	-	13/20	n/r	Mar 2009
Raffi's Place	Glendale	Middle Eastern	$$	-	13/20	n/r	Feb 2007
Ramen Bull at Breadbar	Los Angeles	Japanese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2011
Raphael	Studio City	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2011
Renu Nakorn	Norwalk	Thai	$	-	n/r	n/r	Oct 2012
Red Medicine[1]	Beverly Hills	Vietnamese	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Oct 2012
Red O	Los Angeles	Mexican	$$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	May 2010
Restaurant Komasa	Los Angeles	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Jul 2011
Rivera[3][2][1]	Los Angeles	Latin American	$$$	n/r	15/20	89.5	Sep 2011
RnD Table	Los Angeles	Korean, Varies	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2011
The Royce[4][3][2][1]	Pasadena	American (New)	$$$$$	n/r	16/20	n/r	Jun 2012
Rustic Canyon	Santa Monica	Wine Bars, Burgers, Tapas/Small Plates	$$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Mar 2011
Saam at The Bazaar	Los Angeles	Tapas Bars, Spanish, Basque	$$$$	n/r	16/20	93.7	Apr 2009
Saddle Peak Lodge[1]	Calabasas	American (New)	$$$$	-	15/20	90.9	Jul 2012
Salt's Cure	West Hollywood	American (New)	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2010
Sashi	Manhattan Beach	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Mar 2010
Scarpetta[1]	Beverly Hills	Italian	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2011
Seoul Sausage Company	Los Angeles	Korean, Hot Dogs	$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Oct 2012
Shibucho	Los Angeles	Sushi Bars	$$$$	-	14/20	n/r	Dec 2008
Shiro	Pasadena	Asian Fusion	$$$	-	14/20	n/r	Aug 2007
Short Order	Los Angeles	Burgers, Bars	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2011
The Six	Los Angeles	American (New), Gastropubs	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2010
Son of a Gun	Los Angeles	Seafood	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2011
Sona[2][1]	Los Angeles	French	$$$$$	*	n/r	n/r	May 2010
Sotto	Los Angeles	Italian	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2011
Spago[2][1]	Beverly Hills	American (New)	$$$$$	**	n/r	95.5	Oct 2012
The Spice Table	Los Angeles	Singaporean, Vietnamese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2012
Starry Kitchen Nights	Los Angeles	Asian Fusion	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Aug 2012
Stefan's at L.A. Farm	Santa Monica	American (New)	$$$	n/r	14/20	87.0	Aug 2009
The Strand House	Manhattan Beach	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Aug 2011
sugarFISH	Los Angeles	Sushi Bars	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2010
Sunny Spot	Los Angeles	American (New), Caribbean	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2011
Superba Snack Bar	Los Angeles	Italian, American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2012
Sushi Nozawa	Studio City	Sushi Bars	$$$$	-	14/20	92.4	Feb 2012
Sushi Sasabune	Los Angeles	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$$	-	14/20	87.5	May 2008
Sushi Zo	Los Angeles	Sushi Bars	$$$$	*	n/r	93.7	Jan 2009
Tagine	Beverly Hills	Moroccan	$$$	-	13/20	n/r	Oct 2007
Tar & Roses	Santa Monica	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2012
The Tasting Kitchen	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Oct 2009
Test Kitchen[22][21][20][19][18][17][16][15][14][13][12][11][10][9][8][7][6][5][4][3][2][1]	Los Angeles	Varies	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2010
Test Kitchen 2012	Los Angeles	Varies	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Nov 2012
Torihei	Torrance	Japanese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2009
Totoraku[1]	Los Angeles	Japanese	$$$$$	-	n/r	93.4	Oct 2009
Trattoria Tre Venezie	Pasadena	Italian	$$$$	*	15/20	n/r	Oct 2009
Urasawa[5][4][3][2][1]	Beverly Hills	Japanese	$$$$$$	**	18/20	99.3	May 2010
The Vagrancy Project	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2012
Valentino[1]	Santa Monica	Italian	$$$$	*	15/20	88.0	Nov 2012
Vu	Marina del Rey	American (New)	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Mar 2011
Wakasan[1]	Los Angeles	Japanese	$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Mar 2009
Waterloo & City	Culver City	Gastropubs, British	$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Mar 2011
Wine Cottage Bistro	Santa Maria	Wine Bars	$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Jun 2007
Wolf in Sheep's Clothing	Los Angeles	Tapas/Small Plates, American (New), Southern	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2011
Wolvesmouth Underground Dinner[2][1]	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2011
Wood & Vine[1]	Los Angeles	American (New), Tapas/Small Plates, Gastropubs	$$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Feb 2012
WP24	Los Angeles	Chinese, Asian Fusion	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2010
Wurstküche	Los Angeles	Hot Dogs, Gastropubs	$$	n/r	QB	7.0	Jun 2009
Xiomara on Melrose	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$	-	13/20	n/r	Mar 2011
XIV[1]	Los Angeles	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	15/20	84.5	Feb 2009
Young Dong Tofu	Arcadia	Korean	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Jul 2008
Other: 5x5 Chef's Collaborative[3][2][1] | Angeleno's Chefs Night Out | Blogger Prom[1] | Bocuse d'Or USA Benefit Dinner | C.H.E.F.S. Foie Gras Dinner | Cooks Menu | Fresh Perspectives - Craig Thornton | Ibaraki Benefit Dinner[1] | Jeremy Fox at Animal | LQ+SK Weed and Herb Dinner | LudoBites America at Casa Pulido | Opinionated About Dining Dinner at Providence | Plate by Plate[2][1] | Table20.com LA's Best Bartender Contest[1] | Taste of Beverly Hills[1]

California : South : OC/SD (58 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Anjin	Costa Mesa	Japanese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2011
Arterra	San Diego	American (New)	$$$	n/r	15/20	86.0	Jan 2007
Beachwood BBQ	Seal Beach	Barbeque, Pubs	$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Feb 2009
Binh Dan	Westminster	Vietnamese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2009
Bistango	Irvine	American (New)	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Feb 2008
Blanca	Newport Beach	Tapas Bars	$$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Aug 2008
Blanca	Solana Beach	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2011
Bluefin	Newport Beach	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Dec 2006
Brodard	Garden Grove	Vietnamese	$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2009
Brodard Chateau	Garden Grove	Vietnamese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2008
The Bruery Provisions[1]	Orange	Beer, Wine & Spirits	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	May 2011
Bruxie	Orange	Sandwiches, Belgian	$	n/r	n/r	n/r	May 2011
Burger Parlor	Fullerton	Burgers	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2011
Café Hiro	Cypress	Asian Fusion	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Aug 2008
Café Tu Tu Tango	Orange	Tapas Bars, Sandwiches, Spanish	$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Jan 2007
Catal	Anaheim	Mediterranean, Wine Bars	$$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Mar 2007
Charlie Palmer at Bloomingdale's	Costa Mesa	American (New)	$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Jun 2008
Club 33, Disneyland[4][3][2][1]	Anaheim	French, American (Traditional)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Oct 2009
Gulfstream	Newport Beach	American (New), Seafood	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2010
Gyu-Kaku	Huntington Beach	Japanese, Barbeque, Asian Fusion	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2008
Haven Gastropub	Orange	Gastropubs	$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Dec 2010
Houston's	Irvine	American (New), Steakhouses	$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Dec 2007
I Love Sushi	Costa Mesa	Sushi Bars	$$	n/r	12/20	n/r	Apr 2008
Ikko	Costa Mesa	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2011
Izakaya Zero	Huntington Beach	Japanese, Tapas Bars	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Aug 2007
Kasen	Fountain Valley	Sushi Bars	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2007
Kitchen 1540	Del Mar	American (New)	$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Nov 2010
Leatherby's Cafe Rouge[1]	Costa Mesa	American (New), Wine Bars	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Oct 2008
Marché Moderne[1]	Costa Mesa	French	$$$	n/r	16/20	n/r	Mar 2010
Mastro's Steakhouse	Costa Mesa	Steakhouses	$$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Dec 2007
Molecular Menu at AnQi	Costa Mesa	American (New)	$$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2011
Nana San	Newport Beach	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	July 2011
Napa Rose[2][1]	Anaheim	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	15/20	85.5	Jul 2008
Ohshima	Orange	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2011
Old Vine Café	Costa Mesa	American (New), Breakfast & Brunch	$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Jun 2009
ParkAve	Stanton	American (New)	$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Jun 2009
Phuket Thai	Huntington Beach	Thai	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2009
Pizzeria Mozza	Newport Beach	Pizza, Italian	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Oct 2011
Pizzeria Ortica	Costa Mesa	Pizza, Italian	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2009
Playground	Santa Ana	American (New)	$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Jul 2012
Rancho Valencia, The Restaurant	Rancho Santa Fe	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2011
Relate at Bistro St. Germain's	Encinitas	French, American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2011
San Shi Go	Newport Beach	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Sep 2011
Seol Ak San	Stanton	Korean, Barbeque	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Apr 2009
A Slice of New York Pizza	Seal Beach	Pizza	$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2009
Stonehill Tavern	Dana Point	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Dec 2006
Studio	Laguna Beach	French	$$$$$	n/r	17/20	n/r	Oct 2008
Surah	Buena Park	Korean, Sushi Bars, Barbeque	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Sep 2008
Sushi Shibucho	Costa Mesa	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Aug 2011
Sushi Wasabi	Tustin	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2007
Sushi Wave	Costa Mesa	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Aug 2008
Taco Asylum	Costa Mesa	American (New)	$$	n/r	QB	n/r	Mar 2011
Taléo Grill	Irvine	Mexican	$$	n/r	13/20	n/r	Dec 2006
Thai Nakorn	Stanton	Thai	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Feb 2009
Thang Long Restaurant	Westminster	Vietnamese	$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2009
Tradition by Pascal	Newport Beach	French	$$$	n/r	16/20	n/r	Feb 2012
Tsuruhashi	Fountain Valley	Japanese	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Sep 2008
Volcano Burgers	Los Alamitos	Burgers	$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Sep 2008
Other: Ad Hoc at Home Book Signing | OC Fair Hamburger Chowdown & Giveaway

California : North (29 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Ad Hoc	Yountville	American (New)	$$$	-	14/20	91.8	Mar 2007
Aqua	San Francisco	Seafood, American (New)	$$$$$	-	16/20	n/r	Feb 2008
Atelier Crenn	San Francisco	French	$$$$	*	15/20	n/r	Aug 2011
Baumé	Palo Alto	French	$$$$$	**	14/20	92.0	Aug 2011
Benu	San Francisco	American (New), Asian Fusion	$$$$$	**	n/r	92.3	Aug 2012
Bouchon	Yountville	French	$$$	*	15/20	91.4	Mar 2007
Cheese Board Pizza Collective	Berkeley	Pizza	$	-	QB	7.5	Apr 2010
Chez Panisse	Berkeley	American (New)	$$$$	-	16/20	95.2	Apr 2010
Coi	San Francisco	American (New)	$$$$$	**	17/20	96.7	Nov 2008
Commis	Oakland	American (New)	$$$$	*	n/r	95.3	Apr 2010
Cyrus	Healdsburg	French	$$$$$	**	18/20	97.3	May 2007
The Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton	San Francisco	American (New)	$$$$$	*	18/20	93.2	Mar 2007
Fifth Floor	San Francisco	American (New)	$$$$	-	15/20	90.0	Aug 2008
The French Laundry[2][1]	Yountville	French, American (New)	$$$$$$	***	19/20	100.0	Aug 2012
Koi Palace	Daly City	Chinese, Dim Sum	$$	-	n/r	89.0	Aug 2011
Manresa[1]	Los Gatos	American (New), Spanish, Basque	$$$$$	**	17/20	100.0	Aug 2012
Marlowe	San Francisco	American (New), Brasseries	$$	-	14/20	n/r	Aug 2012
Masa's Restaurant	San Francisco	French	$$$$$	*	17/20	93.2	Mar 2007
Mission Chinese Food	San Francisco	Chinese	$$	-	13/20	n/r	Aug 2012
Meadowood, The Restaurant[1]	St Helena	American (New)	$$$$$	***	17/20	98.4	Apr 2010
Michael Mina	San Francisco	American (New)	$$$$$	*	17/20	89.0	Mar 2007
The Red Grape	Sonoma	Pizza, Italian	$$	-	n/r	n/r	Aug 2008
Saison	San Francisco	French, American (New)	$$$$$	**	14/20	91.7	Aug 2011
The Slanted Door[1]	San Francisco	Vietnamese, Asian Fusion	$$$	BG	15/20	89.5	Aug 2011
Sons & Daughters	San Francisco	American (New)	$$$$	*	14/20	n/r	Jul 2012
Taylor's Automatic Refresher	San Francisco	Burgers	$$	-	QB	6.2	Mar 2007
Ubuntu	Napa	Vegetarian, American (New)	$$$	*	16/20	96.1	Apr 2010
Vik's Chaat Corner[1]	Berkeley	Indian	$	-	QB	n/r	Apr 2010
Yank Sing	San Francisco	Dim Sum	$$$	BG	14/20	90.6	Aug 2012
Other: Cakebread Cellars

New York (16 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Adour	New York	French, Wine Bars	$$$$$	*	15/20	91.5	Dec 2008
Carnegie Deli	New York	Delis, Sandwiches	$$	-	QB	6.4	Dec 2008
Danube	New York	Austrian	$$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Dec 2007
Famous Original Ray's Pizza	New York	Pizza	$	-	n/r	n/r	Dec 2008
Gray's Papaya	New York	Hot Dogs, Juice Bars & Smoothies	$	-	QB	6.4	Dec 2008
Halal Guys	New York	Food Stands, Halal	$	-	n/r	n/r	Oct 2011
Jean Georges	New York	French	$$$$$	***	18/20	100.0	Dec 2008
Kajitsu	New York	Japanese, Vegetarian	$$$$	**	13/20	91.7	Oct 2011
Katz's Delicatessen	New York	Delis, Sandwiches	$$	BG	QB	8.9	Oct 2011
Le Bernardin	New York	Seafood, French, American (New)	$$$$$$	***	18/20	98.6	Dec 2008
Lombardi's	New York	Pizza	$$	-	12/20	6.4	Dec 2008
Papaya King	New York	Hot Dogs, Juice Bars & Smoothies	$	-	QB	6.6	Dec 2008
Per Se	New York	French, American (New)	$$$$$$	***	19/20	100.0	Dec 2008
Shake Shack	New York	Burgers, Food Stands	$$	-	QB	7.7	Oct 2011
Veritas	New York	American (New)	$$$$	*	16/20	n/r	Dec 2007
wd~50	New York	American (New)	$$$$	*	16/20	93.4	Oct 2011

Colorado (16 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
The Blue Star[1]	Colorado Springs	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2007
Blue Vervain	Manitou Springs	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2007
Charles Court	Colorado Springs	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2007
Frasca Food and Wine	Boulder	Italian	$$$$	n/r	17/20	90.1	Jan 2010
Fruition	Denver	American (New)	$$$	n/r	16/20	88.5	Nov 2008
Kevin Taylor	Denver	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	16/20	85.5	Jul 2007
Metropolitain[1]	Colorado Springs	American (New)	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Sep 2007
Mizuna	Denver	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	16/20	91.8	Dec 2008
Nosh	Colorado Springs	American (New), Tapas/Small Plates	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jul 2007
Penrose Room	Colorado Springs	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2007
Phantom Canyon Brewing Co	Colorado Springs	American (New), Breweries	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2007
Plate	Colorado Springs	American (New)	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2007
Rioja	Denver	Mediterranean	$$$	n/r	15/20	86.5	Jan 2010
Summit[1]	Colorado Springs	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Sep 2007
Walter's Bistro	Colorado Springs	American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2007
Zengo	Denver	Latin American, Asian Fusion	$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Jul 2007

Nevada (15 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Alex	Las Vegas	French, American (New)	$$$$$$	**	18/20	n/r	Jan 2011
Bar Charlie	Las Vegas	Japanese, American (New)	$$$$$	*	16/20	n/r	Jun 2009
Bar Masa	Las Vegas	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Dec 2009
CUT	Las Vegas	Steakhouses	$$$$	-	15/20	n/r	Jun 2008
é by José Andrés	Las Vegas	Spanish	$$$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jan 2011
Gordon Ramsay Steak	Las Vegas	Steakhouses	$$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Sep 2012
Joël Robuchon[2][1]	Las Vegas	French	$$$$$$	***	19/20	91.3	Sep 2012
Julian Serrano	Las Vegas	Tapas Bars	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Dec 2009
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon	Las Vegas	French	$$$$$	*	16/20	90.5	Jun 2009
Lotus of Siam	Las Vegas	Thai	$$	-	14/20	91.0	Sep 2012
Picasso	Las Vegas	French, Spanish	$$$$$	**	18/20	93.0	Jan 2008
Raku	Las Vegas	Japanese	$$$	-	14/20	93.4	Sep 2012
Restaurant Guy Savoy[2][1]	Las Vegas	French	$$$$$$	**	18/20	98.2	Sep 2012
Sage	Las Vegas	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Dec 2009
Twist by Pierre Gagnaire	Las Vegas	French	$$$$$	n/r	16/20	n/r	Dec 2009

District of Columbia (9 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Ben's Chili Bowl	Washington	Hot Dogs, Burgers	$	n/r	12/20	7.1	Sep 2011
Central Michel Richard	Washington	American (New), French	$$$	n/r	14/20	85.5	Jan 2010
Citronelle	Washington	French	$$$$$$	n/r	19/20	94.1	Jan 2010
Graffiato	Washington	Pizza, Italian	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Sep 2011
Heritage India	Washington	Indian	$$	n/r	14/20	83.5	Mar 2010
Jaleo	Washington	Spanish, Tapas Bars	$$$	n/r	14/20	86.5	Mar 2010
Kaz Sushi Bistro	Washington	Sushi Bars, Japanese	$$$	n/r	15/20	n/r	Sep 2011
Oyamel	Washington	Mexican, Tapas Bars	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Jan 2010
Zaytinya	Washington	Greek, Turkish, Mediterranean	$$$	n/r	15/20	84.5	Mar 2010

Japan (8 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Gonpachi	Tokyo	Japanese	$$$	-	14/20	n/r	Mar 2008
Ikesu	Tokyo	Japanese	$$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Mar 2008
Imahan	Tokyo	Japanese	$$$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Mar 2008
Kaji	Kyoto	Japanese	$$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Mar 2008
Kyubey	Tokyo	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$$$$	*	n/r	n/r	Mar 2008
Little Hokkaido	Minamiuonuma	Japanese	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2008
Natori	Tokyo	Japanese, Sushi Bars	$$$$$	-	n/r	n/r	Mar 2008
Okaryo	Minamiuonuma	Japanese	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Mar 2008

Illinois (6 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Alinea[1]	Chicago	American (New)	$$$$$$	***	18/20	100.0	May 2009
Charlie Trotter's	Chicago	American (New)	$$$$$$	**	17/20	94.6	May 2009
L2O	Chicago	Seafood, Japanese	$$$$$$	*	18/20	94.3	May 2009
Moto	Chicago	American (New)	$$$$$	*	15/20	93.6	May 2009
Pizzeria Uno	Chicago	Pizza	$$	-	11/20	n/r	May 2009
TRU	Chicago	American (New)	$$$$$	*	17/20	91.2	Aug 2006

Massachusetts (3 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Craigie on Main	Cambridge	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	15/20	90.3	Mar 2012
L'Espalier	Boston	French	$$$$	n/r	17/20	90.5	Mar 2012
Neptune Oyster	Boston	Seafood	$$$	n/r	14/20	92.2	Mar 2012

North Carolina (3 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Luce	Charlotte	Italian	$$$	n/r	14/20	n/r	Jun 2008
Mimosa Grill	Charlotte	Southern, American (New)	$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2008
Ratcliffe on The Green	Charlotte	American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Jun 2008

Virginia (2 restaurants)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Hank's Oyster Bar	Alexandria	Seafood	$$	n/r	n/r	n/r	Sep 2011
The Inn at Little Washington	Washington	American (New)	$$$$$	n/r	18/20	92.9	Jan 2010

Maryland (1 restaurant)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
Table 21 at Volt	Frederick	American (New)	$$$$$	n/r	14/20	94.8	Jul 2010

Wisconsin (1 restaurant)

Name	City	Category	Price	Michelin	Gayot	OAD	Last Posted
L'Etoile	Madison	French, American (New)	$$$$	n/r	n/r	92.0	May 2009

LudoBites 10.0 at Gram & Papas (Los Angeles, CA)

December 4, 2012, 9:00 pm

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LudoBites.TEN at Gram & Papas
227 E 9th St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.624.7272
www.ludobites.com
Tue 12/04/2012, 09:00p-11:55p





Well this is it folks. This is (supposedly) the last round of LudoBites as we know it. As old-school readers may recall, LudoBites v2.0 was my first ever pop-up, back in the halcyon days of 2009, back when the food blogging scene here in LA was still new, inviting, and cohesive. Throughout these past several years, Ludo has sort of defined, refined, and served as the vanguard for these ephemeral restaurants, and in the process, garnered legions of fans, as well as seemingly as many detractors. For some of you, the end of LudoBites couldn't have come any sooner, and for others, this marks the regrettable end of an era.


To send off LudoBites in proper fashion, the team has dug deep and revisited the past, presenting a selection of plates from previous iterations of the roaming restaurant, as well as a couple of new dishes thrown in for good measure. Note that courses marked with an asterisk on the menu include a donation to St. Vincent Meals on Wheels' Cart for a Cause program. Click for a larger version.


Hamachi, Vietnamese Salad [$15.00]
We began with the hamachi, a favorite of mine from v6.0, and again, one of my favorites tonight. The fatty fish itself was spot on, sure, but the magic of the dish really came from all its accoutrements piled on top. Contrasting tastes of sweet, sour, and savory really did a great job counteracting the heft of the yellowtail, and I adored the herb-y, aromatic veil that enrobed the dish. A lovely mélange of textures, too--just a perfect homage to Southeast Asian flavors.


Prawns, Avocado, Pineapple, Shrimp Oil [$25.00]
The prawns, a reworking of a dish from v4.0 I believe, weren't as successful. The texture of the shrimp was on point, with a soft, springy, supple consistency that I enjoyed. However, though the avocado served as a lush, integrating element in the course, the sweet 'n' sour nature of the pineapple tended to dominate on the palate, somewhat obscuring the natural sweetness of the prawn. I did, however, appreciate the counterpoint provided by the salty shavings of Parm here.


"Sea Creature," Crispy Broccoli, Gray Shallots, Dashi [$16.00]
Ludo's so-called "Sea Creature" was, I believe, a new addition for tonight, featuring a bevy of shellfish set in a dashi-based broth (his ode to David Kinch's famed tide pool?). We had oyster, razor clam, Manila clam, and PEI mussel, a real explosion of salty, saline flavors that truly conveyed the essence of the ocean while offering up a nice array of differing textures. The key, though, was the bitter-smoky character of the broccoli, which provided a fantastic temper to the seafood, and I loved the crunch and piquancy of those shallots, too.


Ham Soup, Radish, Pickles [$16.00]
Next up was Ludo's legendary ham soup from v4.0, and it did not disappoint tonight. In fact, I think I liked it even more than before. It was a "liquid sandwich" of sorts, an immensely comforting, robust amalgam of bready, hammy flavors set off against the tang and crunch of the included pickles. Delish--I wanted some bread to sop up the remaining soup.


Tandoori Octopus, Beets, Pink Onions, Yogurt, Fennel [$19.00]
A rejiggered version of the tandoori octopus from v7.0 made an appearance tonight. The octopus itself was very nice, with a slightly spongy, supple, satisfying consistency and a boatload of sweet-saline flavors offset by a touch of bitter char. And amazingly, I actually enjoyed the beets here, with their crunchy texture and sour-sweet relish that worked surprisingly well in concert with the light, lactic tang of the yogurt.


Squid, Peanut Butter, Grapes, Tofu, Lime Oil, Chili Oil [$16.00]
We had here Ludo's homage to pad Thai from v6.0, slightly reworked. The texture on the squid "noodles" was better this time around, with a very pleasing snap, and formed a great base to the dish. The use of peanut butter really did an admirable job tying all the various elements here together as well, but my favorite component was the bean sprout, which offered up a delightful crunch and lightness to the course.


Escargot, Fine Brick Tart, Garlic Mousse, Spinach, Parsley, Curry [$14.00]
Here was another new dish that featured the most French of ingredients: escargot. The intense, earthy weight of the snails was proudly displayed on the plate, beautifully set off against the astringency of the spinach, while the mousse gave a hint of classic garlicky flair. The curry provided a further point of interest, while the brick tart added a lovely crunch to the course, though it was on the sweet side for me.


Poached Egg, Potato Mousseline, Chorizo [$16.00]
Making an appearance from v5.0 was Ludo's potato mousseline, which was as good as ever. The interaction between egg and potato in this "reconstructed Spanish breakfast" of sorts was flawlessly classic, and I thoroughly enjoyed the overarching whisper of spice imparted by the chorizo. Interestingly, a very early version of the dish had spot prawns thrown in the mix, and I wouldn't have minded them here as well to provide some more textural variety to things.




Chicken, Mushrooms, Walnut Condiment, Parmesan Fondue, Brioche [$25.00]
Another newbie came in the form of this seemingly Shake 'n Bake-inspired preparation of chicken. The bird alone was pretty incredible, with a fantastically moist, juicy consistency and an immense depth of savor to it, all paired with a wonderfully crisp brioche crumble crust. Black mushroom and Parmesan added further weight to the dish, while the sliced pear served as a refreshingly light, fruity accent.


Veal, Carrots, Udon, Caramelized Onions, White Miso [$26.00]
Our first item from the tumultuous v3.0 was this updated veal udon. The slick, jiggly noodles were a joy to eat, forming a great base to this cozy, heartwarming dish. I loved the rich, umami-laced taste of the broth here, keenly enhanced by the deep, sweet sapor of caramelized onion. The veal itself was flavorful and hearty, but needed to be softer, suppler in terms of consistency; perhaps shredding the meat like last time would've been a smart move here.


Flat Iron Steak, Treviso, Smoked Anchovy Cream, Pepper Oil [$28.00]
Our last savory was, to my knowledge, a new item as well. Done to a rare consistency, the steak was quite satisfying, with a rich, beefy, pepper-y relish doused with a positively intriguing, inviting undertone of fishy goodness. I also appreciated the further complexity imparted by the Maker's Mark-infused oil and chorizo, and the crunch and bitterness of the radicchio salad was welcomed, too.


Crème Fraiche Panna Cotta, Caramel, Caviar [$15.00]
Our first dessert is undoubtedly Ludo's signature, and with good reason. Straightforward in concept, the dish comes from the Chef's days at Bastide and features but three main components, married in deceptively simple harmony. I first encountered it during v2.0, and tonight the dessert was as good as ever. The key was the interplay between the caviar and caramel, which provided a salty-sweet balance of flavors that went flawlessly against the levity of the panna cotta. A somewhat jarring juxtaposition of elements, but one that's eminently balanced.


Lemon Meringue Tart [$13.00]
Next up was the lemon meringue tart, which we'd had not too long ago at v8.0. It was classic in essence, with the sugary meringue playing foil to the overt sourness of the citrus, all while the pie crust crumbles grounded and tied together the dish.


Chocolate Souffle [$14.00]
We ended with a fairly traditional chocolate soufflé, which last made an appearance at v4.0. It was a prototypical example of the dessert, but pretty much flawless at the same time, with the light, airy cake melding beautifully with the whipped cream, while the included chocolate sauce piled on even more decadence to the dish.



Tonight was a night for remembrance, nostalgia--a trip down memory lane. It was nice to be able to compare and contrast the plates against those of past iterations, to see what still managed to fire on all cylinders, what exceeded past expectations, and what still didn't quite succeed in hitting the mark. Love him or hate him, we can't deny the indelible impact that Ludo's had on the culinary scene here in LA, and beyond. He may not have invented the temporary restaurant, but he certainly popularized it, challenging conventions and the palates of countless diners in the process. This meal was a fitting retrospective of sorts, and I'm a bit forlorn to see LudoBites bite the dust. But perhaps we should be much more curious to see what the Chef has planned for us in the future in the form of "Le Routier," the reported Melrose project to be opened in conjunction with the Animal/SoaG dudes, certainly set to be one of the most anticipated, controversial, and hated on openings of 2013. It'll be an interesting year for Ludo, Krissy, and company; the pop-up king is finally settling down.

Previous LudoBites posts: v8.0 at Lemon Moon[1], v7.0 at Gram & Papas, LudoBites America, v6.0 at Max[1], v5.0 at Gram & Papas[1], v4.0 at Gram & Papas[1], v3.0 at Royal/T[2][1], v2.0 at Breadbar[1].

CUT (Beverly Hills, CA) [4]

December 8, 2012, 7:00 pm

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CUT Restaurant
9500 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310.275.5200
www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/fine-dining/3789
Sat 12/08/2012, 07:00p-11:20p



Ever since my first visit back in 2007, CUT has always been my favorite steakhouse, not only for their phenomenal meat, but for the quality of the sides and apps, which usually play second fiddle at these types of restaurants. However, following my last meal here in 2009, Japanese beef imports were banned due to fears of foot and mouth disease, and, as such, I've been reluctant to return knowing that the best stuff just wouldn't be available. Fortunately though, the USDA finally came to its senses this past August, and relaxed the ban. With real deal wagyu beef back in play, a revisit to CUT was definitely in order.


Like the food here, CUT's environs (designed by Richard Meier) lean toward the contemporary--no dark wood paneling and overstuffed booths to be found here.

I did have a complaint with where we were seated, though. We had a party of 10, and thus requested a large table (and even sent in a large party confirmation form). The restaurant had assured me that this would be no problem (they told me that they had a table that could comfortably seat 12), but when we arrived, we were squeezed into a round table that would've been a tight fit even for eight. I suspect that the original table was given away to someone else. Needless to say, this was not a comfortable situation; our placemats were all on top of each other, and we were constantly banging knees and elbows together, trying to maneuver around all the tableware piled on the too-small table. Not a promising beginning to the meal, and a restaurant of this caliber should really know better.


The product of Executive Chef Lee Hefter, Head Chef Ari Rosenson, and Chef de Cuisine Hugo Bolaños, CUT's menu retains the same format and layout that it's always had. A lot of the dishes have remained static, too, though tonight there were a few items that I hadn't seen before. Click for a larger version.


To begin: CUT's signature cheesy break sticks and Gruyère gougères. Both were quite delicious, though the gougères could have been a bit more luscious on the inside.


Bread consisted of pretzel, whole grain sourdough, pumpernickel, and onion focaccia varieties.


Samurai Sword [$18.00] | Yamazaki 12 Year Whisky, Honey Syrup, Lemon Juice, Ginger
Aviation "Violette" [$18.00] | Tanqueray "10" Gin, Pages Crème de Violette, Maraschino Liqueur, Lemon Juice
Pepino's Revenge [$18.00] | Patron Silver Tequila, Japanese Cucumber, Fresh Basil, Lime Juice
Cocktails are available courtesy of the adjacent Sidebar, and we went with a threesome to start. The Samurai Sword was nice, with a good sweet-sour interplay between the honey and lemon, all over a boozy base of whiskey and accented by just a whisper of ginger. The Aviation "Violette", meanwhile, was the most polarizing of the bunch; I appreciated how the lemon and maraschino melded with the gin here, all with a floral undercurrent from the crème de violette, though others weren't quite as enamored. Last up was Pepino's Revenge, the most approachable of the trio, which showed off a lovely aromatic flair from the basil that paired well against the cucumber, all while the tequila adding a fitting heft to the drink. Overall, some solid cocktails, though a notch below those at a true mixology focused place.

A note: All the appetizer courses pictured below were double-sized portions, since we were splitting them amongst the entire table.


Charred Venetian Octopus, Saffron, Cippolini, Preserved Lemon, Fingerling Potatoes, Wild Rocket [$22.00]
We began with one of the newer creations on the menu. Octopus was supple and satisfying, yet with a good bite and a delightful char bitterness. The combination of arugula, saffron, and lemon worked well as a counterweight to the cephalopod, and I loved the salty zing of the mini potato chips sprinkled on top.


Kobe Steak Sashimi, Spicy Radishes [$24.00]
CUT's steak sashimi is one of the restaurant's longest-lived apps. Tonight, the beef itself was wonderfully tender, though it didn't really wow in terms of taste, being somewhat less flavorful than I'd hoped for. The key, thus, was the umami-rich, Asian-y dressing, which added the needed potency to the meat, as well as the superb contrast provided by the radishes and greenery.


Big Eye Tuna Tartare, Wasabi, Ginger, Togarashi Crisps, Tosa Soy [$28.00]
Tuna tartar seems a bit trite these days, but this was one of the better ones I've had. The fish itself was spot on, with a keen counterpoint in the form of the ginger and added luxuriousness from the avocado. The wasabi, meanwhile, added a nice latent heat to the dish, while the togarashi crisps imparted a delightful spiciness and crunch.


Maple Glazed Pork Belly, Asian Spices, Watercress, Sesame-Orange Dressing, Wild Huckleberry Compote [$17.00]
The pork belly was nice enough, with a lovely crisp crust and a good mix between fat and lean. It was tasty alone, but the use of orange dressing and berry compote rendered the meat rather sweet. I would've liked a more savory flair, thought the watercress did do an admirable job balancing out the dish.


Crispy Veal Sweetbreads, Black Garlic, Mizuna, Celery Root, Tangerine Earl Grey Gastrique [$19.00]
Our final app was also a relatively new addition to the menu. The sweetbreads were deftly prepared, showing off boatloads of the rich, deep, earthy relish that you'd expect from the organ meat; I will say that they could've been crispier though. I did appreciate the piquancy of the black garlic here, while the mizuna provided a touch of levity to the fray.


Before the steaks arrived, we were provided the standard accompaniments of Dijon, spicy, and violet mustards, as well as fleur de sel. In addition, we requested every single optional sauce on offer (each priced at $2): Whole Grain Mustard, House Made Steak Sauce, Wasabi-Yuzu Kosho Butter, Argentinean Chimichurri, Shallot-Red Wine Bordelaise, Armagnac & Green Peppercorn, Creamy Horseradish, and Béarnaise. I'm generally not a fan of saucing my steaks, but others at the table were more inclined.



U.S.D.A. PRIME, Illinois Corn Fed, Aged 21 Days; Bone In New York Sirloin 20 Oz [$56.00]
U.S.D.A. PRIME, Black Angus Beef, Creekstone Farm, Arkansas City, Kansas, Dry Aged 35 Days; New York Sirloin 14 Oz [$57.00]
American Wagyu / Angus "Kobe Style" Beef From Snake River Farms, Idaho; New York Sirloin 8 Oz [$85.00]
True Japanese 100% Wagyu Beef From Miyazaki Prefecture, Kyushu; New York 6 Oz [$135.00]
In classic CUT fashion, we went with a custom tasting of steaks, the first of which was a line-up of New York sirloins. I began with the standard wet-aged, which was good, but a touch drier than I'd expected, with a milder flavor and a strong (almost too strong) char bitterness. The dry-aged Kansas preparation was similar, though slightly tougher and slighty beefier, along with an almost identical crust. Moving up the ladder, we had American wagyu, which was a huge step up in the flavor and fattiness department. Of course, we saved the best for last, and the Japanese wagyu was exactly what I was expecting, with both the fat and luxuriousness taken up to the nth degree. The meat was almost gelatinous in consistency, and practically oozed oil upon mastication--not for the faint of heart!



U.S.D.A. PRIME, Illinois Corn Fed, Aged 21 Days; Bone In Rib Eye Steak 20 Oz [$63.00]
U.S.D.A. PRIME, Black Angus Beef, Creekstone Farm, Arkansas City, Kansas, Dry Aged 35 Days; Rib Eye Steak 12 Oz [$59.00]
American Wagyu / Angus "Kobe Style" Beef From Snake River Farms, Idaho; Rib Eye Steak 9 Oz [$88.00]
True Japanese 100% Wagyu Beef From Miyazaki Prefecture, Kyushu; Rib Eye 8 Oz [$155.00]
With the strip steaks dispensed with, we moved on to the degustation of ribeyes. Again, we began with the wet-aged Illinois, and it was quite satisfying, a lot more flavorful than the sirloin, but not at all overwhelming in terms of fat (a oft complaint of mine with the cut). The dry-aged was actually a step down this time, being markedly more austere. The Snake River Farms, meanwhile, was, once again, a big jump up, with noticeably more flavor and intramuscular fat. Finally, the Miyazaki beef was once again the king of the hill, with an unbeatable richness, depth, and opulence that you'd only find with Japanese beef; interestingly, I also found it more balanced than the comparable sirloin above. Overall, a stronger showing than we had with the New Yorks.


American Wagyu / Angus "Kobe Style" Beef From Snake River Farms, Idaho; Filet Mignon 6 Oz [$85.00]
Given that we'd been gorging ourselves on New York and rib eye cuts, a classic filet mignon made sense to cap off the steak gauntlet. We chose the American wagyu variety, and it did not disappoint, with a lot more flavor than a typical filet, yet with all the tenderness that you'd expect. Can't go wrong with this one.


We were all quite stuffed with beef by this point, but some sweet stuff was a must, nevertheless. Desserts at CUT are currently the task of Pastry Chef Nicole Del Pino (Spago, Domaine Restaurants, The Peninsula Beverly Hills, California School of Culinary Arts), and we ended up with one of each item on the menu. Click for a larger version.


For dessert, we ordered up a bottle of the Kracher "Cuvée Beerenauslese", Burgenland, Austria 2008 [$80], which, coincidentally, I'd had not long ago during my last visit to Spago. It was as delicious as I remembered, loaded with honeyed fruit and a touch of spice, all balanced by a nice acidity.


"Banana Cream Pie", Vanilla Bean Crème Brûlée, Caramel Sauce, Banana Sorbet [$16.00]
Kicking things off was this reimagined banana cream pie, which managed to be my favorite dessert of the bunch. I loved its focused, yet subtle banana character, with a touch of lightness courtesy of the cream, but the best part was the crispy layer of burnt caramelized sugar, which lent a wonderful counterpoint to the dish. Even my banana-hating friends appreciated this.


Valrhona Chocolate Soufflé, Whipped Crème Fraiche, Gianduja Chocolate Ice Cream [$16.00]
CUT's soufflé was pretty much a textbook presentation of the dessert, but was just about flawless, conveying loads of chocolate-y goodness in a light, hot, fluffy custard. At the same time, the crème fraîche imparted a certain lightness to the dish, and the combination of chocolate sauce and gianduja upped the ante even further.


Pink Lady Apple & D'Anjoy Pear Toasted Pecan Crumble, Butter Pecan Ice Cream [$16.00]
Here, the sweetness of the pear and apple melded well with the tarter flavors of the berries, all while the ice cream served to tie all the various flavors together. The crux of the dish, though, was the pecan crumble, which added a savory character to things and also provided a wonderful textural contrast.


"Baked Alaska", Satsuma Mandarin Orange & Mascarpone Gelato, Sicilian Pistachios [$16.00]
Del Pino's riff on the classic Baked Alaska was another winner, with its cool, creamy, citrus-y center playing perfectly off of the sugary meringue. Meanwhile, pistachios, pomegranate seeds, and mandarin supremes added further points of interest to the dish.


Dark Chocolate Pudding Cake, Cocoa Nib Streusel, Honey & Rosemary Ice Cream [$16.00]
Last up was the chocolate pudding cake. The cake itself was fairly pedestrian, and a bit dry to boot. However, the dessert's saving grace was that fantastic ice cream, which conveyed some delectably herb-y notes over a sugary base of honey. I wanted to eat a whole pint of the stuff!


Mignardises comprised mini macarons, lemon bars, and chocolate-Jack Daniel's bars.


The valet line at the Beverly Wilshire has always been a car show of sorts, with Bentleys, Ferraris, Lamborghinis, and Rolls Royces being common sights. The showstopper tonight, though, was this chrome-wrapped Mercedes CLS63. I wasn't the only one who snapped a photo!

Though this meal at CUT was certainly solid, the restaurant didn't quite live up to my fond memories of the place. The apps didn't seem to have as much sparkle as they did before, some of the steaks lacked the richness and depth that I was hoping for, and the whole seating debacle certainly didn't help. I don't know if it's the food that's changed, or if it's my standards that have gotten loftier. CUT's still probably the best steakhouse in LA, though its position at the top has definitely become more tenuous.

Bestia (Los Angeles, CA)

December 14, 2012, 7:30 pm

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Bestia Restaurant
2121 E 7th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.514.5724
www.bestiala.com
Thu 12/06/2012, 07:30p-11:00p





Without a doubt, one of the most anticipated openings this year has been that of Bestia, Ori Menashe and Bill Chait's new Arts District-adjacent Italian concept. Named after the word "beast" in Italiano, Bestia proudly features the Chef's house-cured salumi and hand-made pastas, with a focus on some of the lesser known, more interesting dishes from across the country. The restaurant played home to the latest iteration of Test Kitchen before finally debuting on November 23rd.

About the Chef: Menashe was born in Los Angeles to Israeli parents, but moved back to Israel when he was a mere seven years old. Thanks to his family (they currently run a place called Vitrina), he was exposed to good food at a young age, and after completing his mandatory service in the IDF, moved to Los Angeles to pursue a career in cooking. Menashe started, unsurprisingly enough I suppose, at a middling, now-defunct kosher place called Cafe Blue. He soon left though, and found employment under Jason Travi and Elderoy Arendse at Gino Angelini's La Terza, and became sous chef there after the two decamped for Fraiche. During this period, he also worked at Angelini Osteria, where he really began mastering the art of pasta.

From there, Menashe took on a position at Pizzeria Mozza, then transitioned to All' Angelo, under former Valentino chef Mirko Paderno. After a couple of years there, he left to become the Executive Chef at Angelini Osteria, thus coming full circle in a sense. In late 2010, Menashe cooked multiple nights at the first incarnation of Test Kitchen, which, ironically enough, was located right across the street from the former Cafe Blue site. Following the success of TK, he returned to his gig at Angelini, but also started talking to Bill Chait about a solo project. As such, Menashe left the Osteria at the end of March 2011, later taking up a sort of consulting role at La Botte that September. He departed that post at the beginning of this year, focusing his efforts on the opening of Bestia.


Inside, there's that industrial-chic aesthetic going on that's all the rage these days, but the 4,100-sqft space does look pretty damn good with all that exposed brick-slash-metal-on-wood action. As far as seating goes, in addition to the standard two-tops, there's a sizeable bar, a smaller salumi counter, the requisite high-slung communal tables, as well as some comfy booths.


Bestia's menu reads great, and features a wide variety of interesting- and delicious-sounding dishes from various Italian traditions, with perhaps a touch of Cal-Israeli sensibility thrown in for good measure. Cocktails are crafted by the inimitable Julian Cox, while wine is the charge of Sommelier/Steward Maxwell Leer (of The Tasting Kitchen, The Bazaar, and LudoBites 8.0 fame). The wine list is still a work in progress, and though the current offerings are limited, in the future you can expect a gloriously-obscure, almost too-cool-for-school selection that won't break the bank. Click for larger versions.


Aromatic. [$10.00] | persimmon-infused rye. dolin dry vermouth. amer-bestia. lazzaroni maraschino.
Refreshing. [$10.00] | campari. cocchi americano. fresh lime. evaporated cane sugar. seltzer.
White Negroni. [$10.00] | ford's gin. kina l'avion d'or. suze. grapefruit twist.
With a mere six cocktails on the list, it was a no-brainer to go for the sextet, starting with the first three. The Aromatic was my favorite here, and, as its name implied, it did have some wonderful aromatics indeed, redolent of bittersweet fruit. On the palate, the sensation continued, joined by strong notes of persimmon that permeated the drink, softening and balancing the flavors at play. The Refreshing also stayed true to its name, with a delicious base of herbal, sweet, and astringent flavors, set off by a touch of lime and made wonderfully effervescent by the seltzer water. Last up was the White Negroni, perhaps the most challenging of the trio, with its multifaceted notes of bitter citrus intertwined with boozy and herbal nuances.


Hand-Harvested Diver Scallop Crudo. [$13.00] | squid ink bottarga. chili oil. lemon. scallion. breadcrumbs.
We began with a crudo dish featuring clean, supple slices of scallop, keenly enhanced by the crunch of the included breadcrumb topping. The use of bottarga here made sense, augmenting the inherent salinity of the cappesante, and I loved the creeping spice imparted by the chili oil; however, I would've liked more acidity from the lemon.


Housemade Salumi. [$20.00] | chef's selection of cured meats. traditional condiments. grilled bread.
One of Bestia's best points is its house-made charcuterie, and tonight we were presented with no less than six varieties. I first tried the coppa di testa, a head cheese with a distinct gelatinous consistency and delightfully overarching herb-y notes. The Calabrian pancetta was also quite tasty, with a great savoriness to it and a slight peppery tone. Next was the coppa, with its mouth-watering saltiness and subtly sweet character, as well as the wild boar sausage, which showed off a pretty profound depth. The black pepper-saffron salumi was something special, with a base of peppery flair backed by a fantastic piquancy from the saffron. My favorite thing here, though, might've been the Mangalitsa sausage, made from a rare breed of pig that our server described as the "Kobe beef of pork." I'd imagine that the Kurobuta is an apter comparison, but nevertheless, the salumi was pretty breathtaking, with a wonderfully satisfying texture and loads of porcine goodness counteracted by just the right amount of spice. Paired with the meats was a lovely mustard, some crunchy pickled carrots and radishes, as well as slices of crusty, smoky, savory bread that almost stole the show.


Grilled Octopus. [$16.00] | warm lentils. guanciale. braised greens. salsa di acciughe.
This was another winner, and in fact, may have been the tenderest preparation of octopus that I've ever had, the result of cooking the polpo with wine corks I'm told. In any case, the flavor was on point too, briny and sweet, yet sharply enhanced by the use of an anchovy-based sauce. To balance things out, there were some delightfully earthy lentils, and the bitterness of the braised greens made perfect sense, too. A must try.


Sling. [$10.00] | st. george botanivore. benedictine. cherry heering. fresh lemon. angostura. seltzer.
Crusta. [$12.00] | amaro nonino. germain-robin craft method brandy. combier. fresh lemon.
Scofflaw. [$10.00] | rye whiskey. grenadine. lemon juice. dry vermouth.
Making our way down the list, we had here the Sling--no doubt a variation on the Singaporean variety--which showed off the Botanivore gin nicely, with its counterbalancing fruity, bitter, and medicinal flavors set off by light, bright overtones of lemon. The Crusta was my favorite of the bunch, with its fantastic interplay between spicy and citrus-y notes over a base of brandy, beautifully finished by the use of a sugared rim. Also tasty was the Scofflaw, with its sweet, fruity base of grenadine playing foil to the lemon, all while the whiskey did a great job of making itself known as well.


Steamed Mussels. [$15.00] | spicy housemade 'nduja. fennel seeds. preserved lemon. grilled bread.
Our server strongly recommended the mussels, and he was right on the money, as this was one of the best preparations of the dish that I'd had in a long while. Plump and springy, the mussels' natural salinity was beautifully complemented by the spicy pork sausage here, and I loved the zing of the fennel as well. And the bread? Mahvelous as well--I had to make sure not to fill up on it.


Beef Heart Tartare. [$13.00] | crostino. mint. pine nuts. champagne vinegar.
The beef heart tartar was akin to a meaty bruschetta, not necessarily a bad thing mind you. In fact, I found it quite endearing, with the tender, hearty mash of beef brightened up by the Champagne vinegar, while the use of pine nuts added some textural variation. Superb over the toasty bread.


Margherita. [$15.00] | san marzano tomatoes. mozzarella. basil. olive oil. sea salt.
Naturally, we had to give the pizzas a go, and began with the most traditional of them all: the Margherita. It was utterly classic in essence, with the tart, tangy tomato playing off of the aromatic notes of basil in stellar fashion, all while the mozz added heft and substantialness to the pie. The crust, meanwhile, I found fluffy and doughy, with a nice counterbalancing bitterness to it.


Tartufo. [$25.00] | black truffle. fior di latte. grana padano.
The truffle pizza was, unsurprisingly, hard for us to resist. Strong, earthy notes of tartufo dominated on the nose, while on the palate, such flavors were moderated by the soft, creamy fior di latte, while the Grana Padano added a touch of zestiness to the fray.


With all the cocktails tapped out, we went with a bottle of the 2010 Vinarija Dingac Plavac Mali Peljesac [$40] from Croatia, an off-menu selection chosen by Mr. Leer himself. I actually liked it a lot more than I thought I would. It displayed some very interesting flavors, with a strong spicy, peppery backbone intermixed with some dry, lightly acidic berry notes. A fun, unusual wine that was drinking wonderfully.


Bucatini all'Amatriciana. [$18.00] | charred semolina bucatini. housemade guanciale. tomato. pecorino sardo.
Moving on to the pastas now, with his bucatini, Menashe gives a nod to the age-old sauce of all'amatriciana. It was classical in presentation, with the tanginess of the tomato melding well with the salty guanciale, all while the pecorino added an exclamation point to the dish. I was quite fond of the noodles themselves, too, finding them nicely firm, with a slight gritty character.


Pappardelle di Castagne. [$19.00] | hand-cut chestnut pasta. mushroom ragu. poached farm egg.
Sheets of pappardelle were tasty as well, with a great bite and slightly nutty tinge from the use of chestnut. To that, mushrooms added a mouth-watering earthiness, balanced out by a touch of citrus-y flair in the dish. We can't forget about that egg, either, which lent a creamy, overarching lushness to things that helped tie the course together.


Spaghetti Mancini alle sea urchin. [$20.00] | al dente. squid ink & mullet bottarga. garlic. calabrian chile. bread crumbs.
Our next dish featured Mancini spaghetti, one of the few pastas at Bestia that isn't made in-house. Taste-wise, things were just about perfect, with the dish's intensity and brine really recalling the pure, unmitigated essence of the ocean, accented by a touch of chili and garlic complexity. The pasta itself, meanwhile, was advertised as "al dente" on the menu, and boy, was it ever. In fact, it was super al dente, bordering on crunchy, and quite possibly the firmest pasta I'd ever eaten. Talking with the Chef, this was actually intentional, though I can see the texture here being off-putting to many.


Cavatelli alla Norcina. [$25.00] | ricotta dumplings. housemade pork sausage. black truffles. grana padano.
In our last pasta, Menashe paid homage to the town of Norcia and its famed pork products. It was pretty fantastic, probably my favorite of the quartet, with the sausage just teeming with piggy goodness, and the truffles adding even more decadence to the dish. The pasta, meanwhile, was spot on as well, forming a great foil to the heady elements at play.

Desserts at Bestia are the charge of Pastry Chef Genevieve Gergis (Chez Panisse, Mezze, Short Cake), who just happens to be Chef Menashe's wife as well.


With dessert, Maxwell Leer presented three glasses of the sweet stuff. First was the Törley Fortuna [$9] from Hungary, a blend of Muscat Lunel, Muscat Ottonel, and Irsai Olivér. This was a fun, easy-drinking sparkler, just bubbly enough and with loads of sweet, floral, honeyed flavors. We also had the 2006 Patricius Borház Kft. Aszú 3 Puttonyos Leonis [$12], also from Hungary. This one was a bit more complex, with a nice acidity and some tasty sweet 'n' sour flavors going on, accented by a hint of Botrytis character. Last up was the Vergano Moscato Chinato Luli, probably the least approachable wine here, but still very enjoyable. There was almost an oxidative quality to it, with loads of orange-y flair balanced by spice and smoke, all leading to a contemplative finish.


"coffee & donuts." spiced Chestnut Zeppole. [$10.00] | softly whipped cream. coffee gelato.
In our first dessert, Gergis gives a wink to Thomas Keller with her own version of his famed "Coffee and Doughnuts." Hers were just as tasty, with a delicious sweet spice to them that paired seamlessly with the intense coffee notes in the gelato. The whipped cream, meanwhile, added a well-placed touch of levity to the mix.


mascarpone Rice Pudding. [$10.00] | hachiya persimmons. orange blossom pistachios. persimmon caramel.
I've never been a huge fan of rice pudding, but the version here I found quite to my liking. I enjoyed the cool, creamy rice, with its subtle sweetness, beautifully enhanced by some delectable floral and herbal notes in the dessert. At the same time, the persimmons added a marked fruity character to things, and I appreciated the textural variation provided by those pistachios.


valrhona fair trade bittersweet Chocolate Budino Tart. [$12.00] | salted caramel. cacao crust. olive oil. sea salt.
Also delish was the budino tart, with its sweet-but-not-too-sweet flavors of chocolate working gorgeously with the savory nuances imparted by the salted caramel, fleur de sel, and olive oil. Lovely crunch from the "crust," too, which did wonders in balancing out the lushness of the pudding.


crème fraîche Panna Cotta. [$9.00] | early winter tangerines. meyer lemon cookies.
We ended with another strong showing from Gergis: this light, bright, tangy, and citric-laced panna cotta, served with some delightful lemon cookies--a fitting conclusion to the meal to be sure.

With Bestia's debut, Ori Menashe and company have been thrust into the pantheon of Italian eateries here in LA. Interestingly, Bestia eschews the hyper-regionality of a place like Sotto (another favorite of mine), but instead highlights cuisine from across the country's varied regions. The result features the bold, lusty, honest cooking that makes Sotto great, but applied to a plurality of Italian culinary traditions. Combined with some great desserts and an expectedly-strong cocktail program, Bestia appears to be poised to become one of Downtown's hottest tickets. Bill Chait's done it again.

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Alma (Los Angeles, CA)

December 15, 2012, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Bereket Kitchen (Los Angeles, CA)

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Alma Restaurant
952 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.444.0984
www.alma-la.com
Sat 12/15/2012, 07:00p-11:00p



Certainly, one of the most promising pop-ups to hit LA in recent times has been Ari Taymor's Alma. It debuted in February at Flake in Venice, then moved down the street to Brickhouse in March. From there, Alma transitioned to Millie's Cafe in Silver Lake, before finally landing at its current Fashion District space, next to the super-sketchy Club Las Palmas, in June. Since becoming a permanent restaurant, Taymor and company have been making quite a name for themselves, garnering praise from local critics and even participating in Test Kitchen's "Offal Night" back at the end of October (he also served "bar bites" for Jeremy Fox). They've also started a guest chef series (which kicked off on December 12th with Jason Mattick of Milo & Olive), and are even running a community outreach program targeted toward fostering an "edible schoolyard" initiative.

Things have been in flux on the staff side of things as well. In the kitchen, Sous Chef Danny Romo (Providence, Attica, Fifth Floor) has replaced Derrick de Jesus, and there was a new Pastry Chef in the form of Sam Song, who came from The Dutch and Bouchon in NYC but quickly decamped for Sweet Rose Creamery. Meanwhile, in the front-of-the-house, GM duties have been handed over from Dinelle Lucchesi to Ashleigh Parsons, a Harvard grad who's worked at La Chassagnette in Arles, France and Camino in Oakland; she'll be managing Alma's outreach program as well. The only constant, thus, has been Beverage Director Chris Yamashiro (whom I first encountered at a Wolvesmouth event early in the year) and his house-made sodas.


When it first bowed in the former Lula Kabob space, Alma wasn't all that much to look at, a humble space functioning as a sort of tea/elixir bar-cum-art gallery. However, during the month of November, the room was refurbished with much more concept-appropriate furniture and fixtures, giving it a sort of Mid-Century-meets-Nordic farmhouse chic sort of aesthetic. The miniscule kitchen and attendant counter still remain, though.


Alma's menu, too, has evolved, from a mandatory prix fixe setup to a full à la carte selection and optional tasting menu (for parties of four or smaller), and now highlights even more locally-foraged product from partner Urban Outdoor Skills. As far as the tipple goes, the restaurant is in the process of acquiring a liquor license, but once that's done, the idea is to offer up a focused list of organic, biodynamic wines and craft beers. For now, you'll be able to enjoy Chris Yamashiro's artisanal sodas, coffee and herb tisanes, as well as a liberal BYOB policy. Click for larger versions.


To take advantage of the BYO policy, I pulled four bottles that I'd acquired just a few days prior. The first was the Stone Enjoy By 12.21.12 IPA, the brewery's third release of short shelf-life IPAs meant to be drunk quick, like within a month of bottling (which was on 11.16.12). My initial thought was that the whole setup was a bit gimmicky, but the beer is genuinely some good stuff: hoppy and bitter, sure, but with some tasty citrus notes and a hint of sweet spice. Balanced, smooth, and surprisingly easy to drink.


fried broccoli with espelette aioli [$6.00]
Kicking things off was a bowl of fried sprouting broccoli, quite possibly the best preparation of the vegetable that I'd ever had. There was, of course, a wonderful bitterness apparent, set against overtones of citrus, with the weight of the aioli adding a delightful, multidimensional heat to the dish. Texturally, I appreciated how the stems provided a crunchiness that offset the consistency of the fried leaves.


seaweed & tofu beignet, yuzu kosho, lime [$6.00]
Taymor's beignets are a constant on the menu, though the version we had tonight differed from those at previous Alma experiences. The fritters showed off a crisp, flavorful crust that conveyed flashes of Chinese youtiao savor, while the insides were nicely chewy, with a delicate ocean-y relish that was deftly tempered by the zestiness of the yuzukosho and lime.


housemade bread and cultured butter [$5.00]
Bread and butter arrived at the table looking deceptively simple, but turned out to be quite profound. The bread was baked in-house, and was effortless, yet substantial, while the homemade butter was even better, with a keen mix of undeniably focused, sweet-and-salty flavors that formed a perfect pairing. I do not hesitate in deeming this one of the best bread & butter presentations that I've ever tasted.


Our next beer was the amazing Cismontane Brewing Company Brut Du Sauvin, a white wine barrel-aged Champagne saison that was one of the tastiest beers that I've had in a long while. Vinous in nature, the brew showed off notes of apple and citrus--laced with spice--that transitioned beautifully to a funky, woody, almost oxidative character toward the dry-ish close. Utterly balanced, fantastically complex--get a bottle if you can.


"oyster wrap": cilantro, serrano, lime [$9.00]
Oysters arrived lightly fried, with a subtle, yet present brine on the midpalate that was gorgeously moderated by the spicy attack of the dish, while the finish was thoroughly imbued with the herb-y, aromatic qualities of the cilantro. Delicious--this is one to convince the oyster haters.


chicken liver toast, date jam & frisee [$9.00]
Here, Taymor presented the classic flavors of chicken liver, but refined. Of course, the earthy, lush character of the mousse was proudly conveyed, its heft dutifully counteracted by the very apropos sweetness of the date jam. However, the frisée was just as important, adding a much-appreciated touch of levity to the course.


parsnip soup with braised bacon, pear & black garlic [$10.00]
Parsnip soup arrived in a canning jar: hot, hearty, buttery-smooth, and with a distinct sugariness. It melded well enough with the intense smoke from the bacon, though I would've liked a touch less sweetness from the soup, in order to let the gravitas of the pork shine through even more. Dices of pear, meanwhile, added some crunchiness to the fray, and I liked the piquancy of the black garlic as well.


The Bruery Rueuze was an attempt at the classic gueuze style, a successful one at that. A blend of three vintages of sour ale, the beer conveyed loads of tart, puckering flavor with a strong citrus character set off by a funky, lactic tang. Definitely something for fans of the sour stuff.


winter salad of shoots, leaves, and seeds; horseradish crème fraiche [$9.00]
A salad of various plant parts showed off a bracing, biting bitterness that almost stunned the palate, while seeds provided a well-placed, savory crunch to the mélange of flavors. A helping of horseradish crème fraîche, meanwhile, contributed a creamy contrast to the greens, but I wanted more of it to further integrate the various elements at play.


anson mills rice grits, onion, farm egg, pickled walnut [$18.00]
Grits were quite lovely, and almost risotto-like in character. I loved the enveloping richness of the egg, as well as the counterbalancing crunch and piquancy from the walnut, but my favorite thing here was the onion, which added a superb crunch and astringency to the dish that brightened it up perfectly. There was sort of a lot going on here, but it all came together admirably; it was something that you could just eat a big bowl of.


The first wine of the meal brought us the 2008 Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Mülheimer Sonnenlay Riesling Qualitätswein from Germany's Mosel Saar Ruwer region. This was a quaffable wine, not terribly complex, but with a rich, fruity, floral base and just a touch of minerality.


braised chicken dumplings with olives and nettles [$19.00]
Chicken and dumplings were next, with the tender, succulent bird showing off an incredible depth of flavor that sort of blew me away--I don't think I'd ever had chicken quite like that before. I loved the astringency of the greenery here, too, and the dumplings I found dense and filling, with a distinct rosemary-like tinge to them that I really appreciated.


crispy jidori chicken, carrots, vadouvan [$25.00]
Rolled slices of Jidori were tasty as well: moist and tender, with an excellent shot of vadouvan spice on the skin that accented the meat in stellar fashion. Carrots provided a surprisingly apt sweetness to the dish, while the bitterness of the greens was on point as well.


To pair with the beef, we went with the 2009 Ampersand Larry Bump Cabernet Sauvignon Darms Lane Vineyard. This was a tasty wine, nicely balanced and loaded with ripe, juicy currant nuances, all set off by a marked peppery character that actually paired beautifully with the meat.


pastrami hanger steak, smoked brisket, cabbage, potatoes [$26.00]
Our final savory brought out a duet of beef. The brisket displayed an intense, mouth-watering, hammy smokiness and savor to it, but needed to be more tender, more supple. The hanger, on the other hand, was just about perfect: beefy, sure, but also with a gorgeous mouthful of pastrami spice that kept me going back for more. I absolutely adored the use of bok choy here as well, which imparted a fantastic crunch and lightness to the dish.


At this point, we requested a tasting of Chris Yamashiro's homemade sodas, each priced at $3.50. Going from left to right, we began with the raw ginger, which really did a wonderful job in displaying the pure, bracing, unmitigated essence of the rhizome. The red 40 (beet, star anise, pomegranate, rosewater), on the other hand, was delightfully sweet, yet not cloyingly so, with a nice hint of spice. The black lime, vanilla was also tasty, with a base of vanilla sweetness counterbalanced by the focused sourness of lime on the finish. Last was the grapefruit soda, which conveyed plenty of tart, tangy citrus flavors leading to an almost nose-tingling sensation of cinnamon-y spice.


Our last bottle of the evening came in the form of the Brouwerij Van Steenberge Gulden Draak 9000 Quadruple. I'd had the standard Gulden Draak at LudoBites earlier this year, and quite liked it, but this was even better. The bouquet on this one was maaahvelous, wonderfully aromatic and redolent of pear. The fruit continued on to the palate, but in subdued form, where it was joined by spicy, boozy notes and a slight earthy funk. A superb, versatile brew that really improves on the original.


buttermilk panna cotta, tangerine, bay, quinoa [$9.00]
A jar of buttermilk panna cotta came layered with tangerine, its tangy, lactic character adeptly offset by the refreshing, juicy sweetness of the fruit, while the quinoa added a delightful crunchiness to things.


sorrel, carrot, white chocolate [$9.00]
The sorrel ice cream was the star of the show here, putting forth a distinct sourness that formed a great foil to the sugariness of the white chocolate semifreddo and carrot cake. It was a smart mix of flavors, and I swear, in some bites, I even tasted foie gras in there somewhere!

In my previous reports on Alma, I strongly praised Chef Taymor's cooking, which is imbued with a marked Norcal sensibility that's really something you don't find in LA. That rings true more than ever. It was sort of interesting to see how his cuisine has evolved over the course of the year, and if anything, the food has gotten even more confident. Taymor has a great culinary point-of-view that deftly marries rusticity and refinement, with a reverence for all that's great about famer's market-driven, Californian fare, and yet, he imbues his cooking with just the right amount of modern flair. The result is a thing to behold: seemingly simple plates that somehow manage to be profound and multifaceted, yet approachable at the same time, with uncommonly precise flavor combinations that are almost uncompromisingly delicious. Keep an eye out for this one.

Bereket Kitchen (Los Angeles, CA)

December 23, 2012, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Kasen (Fountain Valley, CA) [2]

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Bereket Supper Club
676 S Avenue 21, Los Angeles, CA 90031
314.537.1577
www.bereketkitchen.com
Wed 12/12/2012, 07:30p-10:45p





Since the advent of Wolvesmouth back in 2010, the underground dining scene here in LA has undoubtedly expanded in both breadth and vibrancy, and the format has become a legitimate venue to serve as the incubator for the formation of a "real" restaurant. One of the more interesting concepts to hit the scene in recent times is modern Ethiopian supper club Bereket Kitchen, named after the Amharic word for "gift." Launched on September 9th, 2011, Bereket is the brainchild of sisters Kedist and Becky Tsadik, and is something that I've been curious to try out for the better part of the year.

The idea for the supper club was conceived by Kedist Tsadik, who handles the front-of-the-house for Bereket. A graduate of Vanderbilt University (BS Communications '06), she worked as a commercial real estate finance analyst for CIBC World Markets before enrolling in the MBA program at UCLA in September 2009. During her tenure there, Kedist came up with the idea of Bereket after receiving positive feedback from her fellow classmates. Invigorated, she decided to leave the world of real estate to pursue her love of the restaurant industry, and thus, convinced her sister Becky to return to Los Angeles from Chicago to start Bereket. Currently, Kedist manages Bandera restaurant in West LA, part of the Hillstone Restaurant Group (they also own Gulfstream, still my favorite place for crab cakes).

Becky Tsadik, meanwhile, runs the kitchen for Bereket. She attended Northwestern's Medill School of Journalism, graduating in 2008, and worked in food marketing before deciding to pursue a career in the restaurant industry full-time. Becky cooked at Demera in Uptown Chicago, and during her tenure there, really developed a passion for Ethiopian cuisine, but also saw its potential to reach a wider audience. Following, she worked under Food Network Star winner and "Sandwich King" Jeff Mauro, further honing her culinary skills, and also served as head chef for a large mortgage company in the City. In 2011, Becky returned to LA at Kedist's behest to start Bereket, but has also staged at Joe's and The Tasting Kitchen in Venice, and worked with Brian Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga at Wolf in Sheep's Clothing/The Hart and the Hunter. Her current role is at Cooks County with Daniel Mattern and Roxana Jullapat, and she even collaborated with Pheast's Isaiah Frizzell on a Valentine's Day dinner at Royal/T.


Bereket's menu tonight, a sort of holiday special, featured five courses at $70 (with a portion of the proceeds going toward charities in Africa). To drink, we were provided tej, a delicious Ethiopian mead (honey wine) made in-house by the sisters, but otherwise, we were advised to bring our own. Click for a larger version.


To take full advantage of the BYO policy, we brought along fives bottles, which, out of sheer coincidence, managed to pair rather well with the five courses of food. Our first was something on the lighter side, the Schneider Weisse Tap 7 Unser Original. This was a nice hefeweizen, though not quite what I expected from the style. There were the typical notes of banana and clove, but the sugary malt base of the beer was much more apparent than I'd anticipated, while the finish was drier, with a bit of astringency.


1: Winter Black Kale | Tuscan Lacinato Kale, Radicchio, Fuyu Persimmons, Toasted Barley, Chevre, Lemon Shallot Vinaigrette
The meal got off to a strong start with truly one of the tastiest salads that I'd had in a while. The interaction between the bitter greens and the sweet persimmons was spot on, and I loved the weight of the goat cheese, and how it was tempered by the acidity of the lemon here. At the same time, the barley provided a great textural component to the dish, making for a salad that was just utterly balanced and well-integrated.


Next, we had a wine specifically recommended by none other than Akili Steward, whom you may recall from The Royce, Magnum, and The Dining Room. It was the 2010 Yves Breussin Vouvray Sec, a refreshing, light-hearted wine that was drier initially, but with a delicious body redolent of sweet fruit and overarching notes of lemon. The touch of minerality on this one was much appreciated as well.


2: Shrimp Piri Piri | Serrano Pepper, Herbed Butter, Bitter Greens Salad
A sextet of shrimp was shared amongst three diners. I loved the relish of the piri piri sauce here, which provided a multifaceted blast of heat with a complex interplay of sour, spicy, and herb-y flavors. It went superbly against the shrimp, and surprisingly, didn't dominate their natural salinity, and I positively adored the salad here, which showed of a bitter, citrus-y kick that moderated the piri piri beautifully. My only concern was that I wanted the shrimp to be less cooked, and thus snappier in consistency.


At this point in the meal, Kedist introduced Claudia Endler, who co-owns the building (the Telemachus Studio-designed Cero Gallery) and runs her own jewelry line, Claudia Endler Designs. Interestingly, the event space was actually one of Edison Electric's first steam plants back during the early 1900's, and eventually became part of the Pabst Blue Ribbon brewery.


Up next was a cider, specifically the Crispin Artisanal Reserve The Saint, crafted using Belgian Trappist yeast. This one conveyed boatloads of crisp, honeyed, apple-y goodness, tinged by just a touch of funk and mustiness near the finish. An easy drinker.


A plate of injera was placed before us, looking quite like miniature rolls of carpet! The bread was pretty marvelous: light, airy, and fluffy, with a distinct, almost sourdough-esque tang to it. Great for sopping up the food to follow.


3: Holiday Medley | Turmeric Spiced Yellow Split Peas, Collard Greens Gomen, Fiery Split Red Lentils, Roasted Delicata Squash
Contained within a shared plate that looked suspiciously like the Microsoft Windows logo were four items that just begged for a good going over with by the injera above. I began with the lentils, my favorite of the quartet, and loved their hearty, satisfying nature, laced with just the right amount of creeping heat. The chickpeas were delectable as well, with a great earthy character and a fantastic spice factor from the turmeric. Collard greens (gomen) were flawless, with a bitterness to them that did a nice job in offsetting some of the intense flavors at play here. Last up was the squash, which I found sweet, but fortunately not overwhelmingly so; the texture was spot on, too: a bit firm, but still supple, with a good bite.


To pair with the heftiest course of the evening, we had a bottle of the 2007 Torbreck The Steading from Australia's Barossa Valley, a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Shiraz, and 20% Mataro (Mourvèdre). This one packed quite a punch, showing off a slightly spicy attack leading to tons of super-jammy dark fruit on the midpalate, countervailed by some nice tannins and just a smidge of herbaceousness.


4: Berbere Braised Beef Short Ribs
Our last savory course of the evening featured braised short rib, always a crowd pleaser. The sauce utilized here was of the berbere variety, and it was fantastic, displaying an intriguing combination of spicy, savory, and aromatic components that melded harmoniously with the beef. At the same time, a topping of onions provided a dash of sweetness to the fray that also worked with the meat. Delicious, though texturally, the ribs could've been more tender, more falling-apart.



Before dessert, Kedist made sure to introduce Becky (who'd been in the kitchen the whole time), as well as the rest of the Bereket staff.


Our final tipple was a bottle of Stone 11.11.11 Vertical Epic Ale that I'd been saving for a year. I just had to bring this one out, given that tonight (12.12.12) was the exact date during which the beer should be drunk. It was actually the best food pairing of the night, conveying loads of cinnamon-y spice that complemented the pumpkin pie perfectly, along with a nicely balanced, sugary maltiness with hints of dark fruit and chili.


5: Ethiopian Spiced Pumpkin Pie | Whipped Cream, Chocolate Coffee Reduction
Dessert comprised an Ethiopian riff on the traditional pumpkin pie. All of the pie's classic character was there, with the sweet-but-not-too-sweet pumpkin working gorgeously with the various spices incorporated. The drizzles of chocolate-coffee, meanwhile, added further weight and complexity, while the dollop of whipped cream up top imparted just a touch of levity to things.


At the end of the meal, we were each provided packets of Ethiopian coffee, made with cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon.

Seeing as how this was only one of the few times that I've had Ethiopian cuisine, I can't comment too much about the authenticity of the cooking. However, I can definitely appreciate the robust, soulful flavors that Tsadik has infused into the food, thus creating a unique combination in which old recipes are seamlessly imbued with a modern flair. It's a fresh perspective on traditional cookery, and I'm curious to see, and taste, more of it. Fortunately though, the duo is planning to open a permanent restaurant sometime next year, likely in Venice or Downtown, and you can bet that I'll be there, post-haste.

Kasen (Fountain Valley, CA) [2]

December 21, 2012, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Yamakase (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Bereket Kitchen (Los Angeles, CA)

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Kasen Sushi Restaurant
9039 Garfield Ave, Fountain Valley, CA 92708
714.968.9860
www.kasen-sushi.com
Fri 12/21/2012, 08:00p-10:05p





Stellar sushi in Fountain Valley? That's what I kept hearing about Kasen.

The restaurant is the work of Chef/Owner Susumu Ii and his wife Keiko. After being trained in Japan, Ii came to the US in 1977, and, supposedly, trained under Shibucho's venerable Sakae Shibutani. He opened Kasen in October 1990, serving only traditional sushi and none of the crazy rolls that Americans had grown to like--a pretty novel idea at the time. I'd actually visited way back in 2007, but the place sort of fell off my radar after that. The restaurant ended up closing at the end of April 2009 when the couple returned to Japan to take care of Ii's sick parents. In the interim period, Kasen became Sushi Cocoro under new ownership, but that place quickly folded, once again reverting to Kasen when Ii returned in early 2010. Since then, the restaurant has been "rediscovered," with many reports placing it among the top sushi places in Orange County. As such, a revisit was certainly in order.


As for Kasen's menu, it's definitely well-edited, featuring only a handful of items, pretty much all of which are variations on sushi (no tempura, teriyaki, or other such frivolities here). Of course, there's the omakase option as well, which we indulged in; there's no set price for it per se, but we got out for $125 a head, not including tax, tip, or tipple. To drink, you have your standard Japanese beers, but also quite a nice list of sakes, by the glass and by the bottle. Click for larger versions.


We began with a small carafe of the Uragasumi [$16.00] from Miyagi Prefecture. I quite liked it, finding the sake's light, fragrant, fruity character very well balanced against the delicate, subtly savory notes of rice and earth present.


The requisite gari (pickled ginger) was soon placed before us.


1: Sashimi
The Chef's sashimi platter brought us no less than five pristine varieties of seafood. I started with the tuna, which was about as good as it gets, with a delightfully soft, supple consistency and subtle, creeping brine. The shima aji was also much appreciated for its firm, yet yielding texture and mild, clean relish. I followed that up with the abalone, which was as crunchy as you'd expect, with a lovely salinity that was beautifully set off by the wasabi. The rough tongues of sea urchin, meanwhile, were spot on--creamy and oh-so sweet, perfect without any accoutrements at all. Last up, of course, was the toro, which was right up there with the best I've had: fatty, melty, and just oozing oil, barely requiring mastication.


2: Tako No Sashimi
Our next plate featured octopus from Japan, in both steamed and raw forms. The steamed preparation was chewy, dense, and satisfying, with a certain "hammy" savor to it, while the raw was even better, with an almost gelatinous consistency and a mild taste beautifully opened up by the application of lemon and salt.


3: Tsubugai, Hotate No Sashimi
The third sashimi course had the rather uncommon tsubugai, as well as scallop. The former was a type of whelk, or conch from Hokkaido, and conveyed a very focused brine and satisfyingly crisp texture; it was delicious when taken with the included wakame seaweed, and even better with a dab of wasabi. Raw scallop from Hokkaido, meanwhile, was on point as well, with a fantastic consistency and a creamy, sweet sapor that I found quite endearing.


For our second sake, we went with a bottle of the Dai Shichi Minowamon Kimoto "The Gate" [$130] from Fukushima prefecture, which I'd actually had not long ago at Raku in Las Vegas. A junmai daiginjyo, this one was quite nice, with a certain heft and complexity to it--a lovely balance of sweet, savory, and alcoholic flavors.


4: Hirame No Kobujime
With the sashimi dispensed with, we soon moved on to the sushi portion of the meal, and what better way to start off than with this kelp-marinated flounder. The fish was lovely, with an almost sticky consistency and a complex taste tinged by just the right amount of kombu character, all finished by some wasabi heat.


5: Maguro Zuke
A beautifully crimson cut of marinated tuna was delicious, with a perfectly supple bite and great depth courtesy of its savory-sweet marinade.


6: Kanpachi
Amberjack I found satisfyingly firm, with a clean, smooth savor that was really opened up by a dab of soy sauce.


7: Ikura
Globules of salmon roe were delightful--salty bursts of ocean-y goodness that melded wonderfully with the moderating combo of nori and rice.


8: Aji
A shimmering cut of jack mackerel was one of my favorites, really showing off the sheer brininess of the fish, but in a very delicate manner. Loved the countervailing ginger and wasabi here as well.


9: Toro
This white-speckled tuna belly looked gorgeous on the plate, and was even better on the palate, displaying loads of classic toro flair: oily, melt-in-your-mouth, and yes, unctuous.


10: Saba
Another cut of mackerel arrived, and compared with the aji, this one was much more intense, but still not overwhelmingly so, with a fantastically "meaty" texture to boot.


11: Ebi
I rarely see cooked shrimp when I have sushi, but the presentation here was actually surprisingly good. It had a great crunch to it, and its sweet, saline flavor was intact as well. I still wouldn't prefer the ebi to a good amaebi, but you certainly wouldn't go wrong with this.


12: Tekkamaki
Next was a hosomaki filled with chopped tuna, and not just any tuna, but toro. It might've been the best tuna roll that I'd ever had, with the lush, luxurious tuna melding beautifully with the contrasting flavor of its nori wrapper.


13: Tamago
The egg omelet was on point--cool, sweet, and dense--but we knew its appearance meant that the standard gauntlet of sushi was coming to an end. At this point, we were asked if we wanted anything else, and we happily obliged.


14: Kohada
Our first request was the gizzard shad, and it did not disappoint, showing off its wonderfully firm body, beautifully spotted-silver skin, and fishy relish on the tongue.


15: Aoyagi Himo
I requested the aoyagi no himo next, which is the fringe of the round clam, something that I'd had only once before at the fantastic Nozomi in Torrance. This one was all about the texture--spongy, snappy, and utterly satisfying--paired with the lingering, saline taste of the clam.


16: Uni
The uni was a must-order as well, and was pretty marvelous, with an initial flavor loaded with sweet, creamy nuances, all leading to a subtle, creeping brine on the finish. About as good as it gets.


17: Engawa
We ended with the hard-to-find engawa, which is basically the fin of fluke. Here, texture is key, and the beauty of engawa is its chewy consistency, which was on proud display. Flavor-wise, the fish was pretty subtle, but perked up by a well-placed sprinkle of shio (salt).


18a: Matcha Ice Cream
At this point, we were offered our choice of three desserts (all made in-house), and naturally, we went with one of each. The green tea ice cream really showed off the pure, bitter essence of the matcha, and was quite fetching actually, though I would've preferred a smoother, less gritty consistency.


18b: Tiramisu
The tiramisu, meanwhile, offered up some very classic influences, and was quite to my liking with its sweet, creamy flavors, taken up a notch by the astringency of coffee toward the finish.


18c: Azuki Panna Cotta
Last up was the red bean panna cotta, my favorite of the troika. Made from fresh cream and condensed milk, it was a joy to eat, with the custard playing gorgeously against the sugary weight of azuki.

Kasen turned out to be quite the amazing experience, and managed to handily exceed any expectations that I'd had. It was a near-flawless meal, and I couldn't really fault the flavors or quality of the ingredients presented. With this dinner, Kasen has been undoubtedly promoted to the crème de la crème of Orange County sushi restaurants, joining the likes of Ohshima, Nana San, and Shibucho. If you're a fan of sushi in OC, then Kasen needs to be on your to-eat list.

Yamakase (Los Angeles, CA)

December 30, 2012, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Ceviche Nights (Los Angeles, CA)

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Yamakase Restaurant
Los Angeles, CA 90034
www.yamakase.com
Sun 12/30/2012, 07:00p-12:30a



What do you get when you cross Totoraku with Urasawa? I've often pondered about that unholy matrimony myself, but it turns out the answer is Yamakase ("mountain wind"), a semi-secret, invitation-only, fusion-meets-sushi omakase joint that opened last December in Palms near Culver City. It's the work of 48-year-old Chef/Owner Kiyoshiro Yamamoto, whom you may recall from The Hump in Santa Monica. Yama-san has teamed up with partner Stan Liu, who also serves as GM for the lilliputian eatery. The Hong Kong-raised Liu, for his part, was the founder of Kronos Digital Entertainment and Atomic Bullfrog, and was formerly VP of mobile content development at Walt Disney Internet Group before starting Kronos Games Online.

I was fortunate enough to get an invitation to dine at Yamakase, and jumped on the opportunity. Interestingly enough, we were joined tonight by none other than Chef Ludo Lefebvre of LudoBites fame, who made for a great dining companion, one who really appreciated the artistry going on here. As far as Yamakase's menu goes, there is none per se. Rather, you can expect a kaiseki-ish progression of about 20 courses--both cooked dishes and sushi/sashimi--priced at around $200 or so. To imbibe, thanks to the restaurant's new liquor license, there's a selection of sake, beer, and wine available, but part of the draw here is clearly the liberal BYOB policy with no corkage fee; it's a great excuse to bring out the trophy wines.


For this final blowout meal of 2012, we took the opportunity to bust out some of the good stuff, starting with the 2002 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne. This was a delicious sparkler, showing off an earthy sweetness initially, leading to a nice toastiness on the midpalate and finishing long with some great bread-y and mineral-y nuances. Light, bright, and very well integrated.


1: Jamón Ibérico with Caviar
Our first course I found very reminiscent of a dish called "José Taco" that I'd eaten at the fantastic é by José Andrés in Las Vegas. We had here shards of jamón ibérico, finished with a small mound of caviar. The ham was fatty and nutty, with a rich, round flavor that was deftly accented by the sharp, focused, lingering saltiness of the roe.


2: Jellyfish
Jellyfish was wonderfully snappy and slippery, with a mild relish that was perfectly complemented by the use of earthy sesame, while the dish's acidic broth and cucumber cut through some of that heft. Probably the best jellyfish that I've ever had.


3: Japanese Butterfish
Japanese butterfish was stupendous as well, showing off a great texture and clean, delicate flavor, duly enhanced by the fish's sweet-ish dressing and thin strands of fruit. Loved the tiny baby peach hidden underneath, too.


For my contribution, I pulled a magnum of 1999 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon from my cellar, which, interestingly enough, I also brought on my second visit to Urasawa. I found the wine superbly well balanced, with a lovely acidity and minerality, set off by a subtle undercurrent of citrus zest and creamy toast.


4: Corn Soup
Next up was probably the most luxurious corn soup ever, containing black truffle, uni, scallop, and a "special" scallop that comes in a triangular shell (I'm guessing tairagai, or pen shell clam). The key here was the sweetness of the corn, which paired well with the bittersweet urchin and mild scallops, all while the truffle contributed an earthy veil to the dish.


5: Kusshi Oyster and Quail Egg
Here, Yama-san presented Kusshi oyster and truffle-infused quail egg in two forms. In the front, we had a preparation with crab innards sauce and yuzu, and it was delightful, with the weighty kanimiso enhancing the oyster's inherent brine beautifully, all while the yuzu provided a light overtone of citrus. The version with blue crab-sesame cream was delicious as well, with a sweet, rich, enveloping savor that paired especially well with the egg.


6: Homemade Tofu with Chicken
The Chef's homemade tofu with chicken breast, young potato, bamboo, and mushroom soon arrived, garnished with a dab of salty-sour umeboshi sauce. These were hearty, satisfying bites, with the chicken adding a superb savoriness to the dish, while the other ingredients provided further complexity and made for some great textural variation.


7: Vegetable-Mentaiko Aspic
We had here what amounted to a terrine of spicy cod roe, asparagus, and baby tomato, set in a black pepper-yuzu dressing. This was a gorgeous amalgam of disparate elements, a deft mélange of salty, sweet, and bitter flavors encased in gelatin and taken up another notch by the lingering, peppery sauce. One of Ludo's favorites.


For our third bottle of bubbly, we had the 2004 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Rosé Brut. This one was surprisingly hefty for a rosé, full bodied with expected notes of berry fruit and an intriguing earthy character to it, bound by a countervailing minerality.


Here, we see Yama-san scooping up some tiny tongues of Japanese uni for our next course.


8: Baby Snow Crab
Set in the smallest carapace I'd ever seen was a mound of snow crab meat, topped with the aforementioned uni and chunks of crab roe. It was a wonderful dish, with the pure, sweet, saline essence of the kani proudly displayed, augmented by the bittersweet brine of sea urchin while the roe added further complexity and depth to the dish. Ludo reveled in the sheer simplicity and beauty of the course.


9: Chawanmushi
Up next was the most luxurious, and perhaps the best chawanmushi that I'd ever had, one featuring gingko, halibut, truffle butter, seared scallop, shark fin, squid, sea urchin, and hairy crab. It was hot, hearty, and undeniably satisfying, a real celebration of the various seafood elements, all tied together by that egg custard. Delicious.


With the Champagnes dispensed with, we moved on to the reds, starting with the oldest bottle we had, a 1979 Pierre Bouree Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers. The Burgundy was definitely on the mature side, with an earthy, vegetal nose and a dry, peppery character with a pretty strong acidity on the palate.


For our next course, Yama-san grates his 600 million year-old Himalayan rock salt, a gift from a former customer.


10: Halibut and Halibut Fin
Paper-thin, translucent slices of halibut were joined by meatier cuts of halibut fin. The fish was so fresh, so clean, with a delicate taste that was beautifully perked up by fine pinpoints of saltiness. The engawa, meanwhile, conveyed a great touch of chewiness, and paired swimmingly with the salty caviar and whisper of citrus in the dish.


Moving on to some Bordeaux now, we had the 1985 Château La Fleur St. Émilion Grand Cru, a well-integrated wine, surprisingly young tasting and restrained, with delectable berry nuances and some appealing tannins.


11: Marinated Tuna
Cuboids of blue fin tuna from Spain were cured in soy and wasabi and served with pine nuts. The fish was lean and supple, with a fantastic depth of flavor courtesy of the marination process, while the nuts added a well-placed textural contrast.


Next, we delved into sake with the Dewazakura Yukimanman "Snow Country", a daiginjo from Yamagata Prefecture that's been aged for five years. I quite enjoyed it, finding the sake sweet, rich, and viscous, with some marked fruity flavors balanced by a delicate touch of alcohol.


12: Needlefish
Needlefish, or sayori, is fairly hard-to-find, so it was great to see it offered tonight. The fish was paired with a miso vinaigrette, and I loved the zestiness of the shiso as well as the dish's citrus-y brightness.


Returning to Burgundy now, Ludo brought along a bottle of Ray Walker's highly sought-after 2009 Maison Ilan Charmes-Chambertin Aux Charmes Hautes for us to enjoy. This was a weighty one, rich and meaty and delicious, with a deft blend of smoke and berry fruit along with a slight herbaceous character. Quite nice.


13: Needlefish and Mushrooms
The needlefish made a second appearance, this time in cooked form. Firm, dry, and fishy, the sayori melded well with the maitake and shimeji mushrooms, while the dish's viscous, peppery dressing did wonders in integrating all the various elements together.


14: Ham and Eggs
And now, for something completely different, Yama-san served us breakfast in the form of an egg and jamón ibérico scramble atop toast. It was as straightforwardly tasty as you'd expect, with the salty ham pairing in classic fashion with the fluffy egg. Humorously, Ludo even likened this to a "white trash tartine!" Yum.


Back to Bordeaux we went with the 1990 Château Potensac from the region's Médoc appellation. This one was nicely structured, with notes of smoke and pepper laced with undertones of currant and dark fruit. Quite fitting with the beef to follow.


Yama-san shows off the star of our next course: some beautifully-marbled Kagoshima beef.


15: Kagoshima Gyu
We had here some real deal Japanese wagyu tenderloin from Kagoshima Prefecture, marinated in Macallan 21, dressed in a soy-Maui onion sauce, and garnished with a smear of yuzukosho. It was maaahvelous, the best steak I'd eaten all year and probably one of the best I've had, ever: ridiculously tender and fatty, with a profound depth and beefiness that was perfectly augmented by the meat's concentrated, sweet-ish dressing. I even loved the salty, spicy tang of the yuzukosho, too. Interestingly, during this course, Ludo mentioned that he'd also made a whiskey-marinated steak before at LudoBites 6.0, and indeed, that was quite simply the best steak that he'd ever served as well.


Yama-san then gave us a "bonus" course consisting of the scraps and fat from the steak above. Fantastic!


Our next sake was a daiginjo from Akita that had been aged for two years, the Akitabare Suirakuten "Heaven of Tipsy Delight". I found it rather enjoyable and eminently balanced, with a delectably juicy fruitiness that played perfectly off of the smooth, rice-y notes in the drink.


16: Toro Sashimi
Here was a small sliver of pink toro, buttery smooth and velvety on the tongue, with a keen fattiness that was deftly cut by the small dab of wasabi present.


17: Special Scallop Sashimi
Next was a cut of the "special" scallop mentioned above--mildly sweet and saline, with a fantastically firm, yet pliant consistency.


At this point, Yama-san began with the sushi, formed using rice made with the Chef's own recipe incorporating red vinegar.


18: Maguro Sushi
A cut of lean tuna was just about perfect: silky and slick, with a superb, subtle brine and a wondrous contrast from the shari.


19: Mirugai Sushi
Geoduck was excellent as well, with an incredibly satisfying chewiness and a marked salinity adroitly tempered by the use of yuzu and shiso.


20: Kohada Sushi
Gizzard shad was similarly flawless, one of the best preparations I've had in fact. Marinated in vinegar, the kohada arrived firm and oh-so fishy, but well-moderated by a touch of yuzu zest.


21: Toro Sushi
Rose-colored tuna belly was delightfully rich, with a mouth-watering taste that was elevated by a brush of soy sauce. Again, I just loved how the red vinegar rice worked in the course.


22: Butterfish Belly Sushi
Our parade of nigirizushi ended with a cut of hard-to-find butterfish belly. Stupendous--clean, light, and refined, but with a certain gravitas to it.


The third and final sake of the evening was one of Yama-san's favorites: the Kokuryu Tokusen "Crystal Dragon", a ginjo-class tipple from Fukui Prefecture. Although not as refined as the previous two sakes, it was still delicious, with fresh notes of tropical fruit contrasted by a base of boozy goodness.


Here, Yama-san prepares our hand rolls.


23: Toro-Kani Maki
The first temaki combined the holy trinity of toro, crab, and crab guts. It was phenomenal, quite possibly the best hand roll I've ever had, with the tuna and crab faultlessly augmented by the ocean-y intensity of the kanimiso, all while shiso and cucumber provided a touch of levity to things.


24: Ume-Kyuri Maki
Our next roll served as a sort of palate cleanser, with plum and cucumber making this a light, refreshing course.


Yamakase has a small selection of single malt Scotch whiskies, which Yama-san and Stan kindly shared with us. Here we see the Chef pouring a bottle of Port Charlotte PC6.


Some of the restaurant's rare, pricey bottlings included the Glenmorangie Signet and two single cask selections from independent bottler and blender Douglas Laing & Co: the Old Malt Cask Macallan 20 Year and Douglas of Drumlanrig Macallan 21 Year.


25: Maguro Don
Our final savory course brought us blue fin tuna and crab innards over rice, a hearty, satisfying conclusion to the meal. I wanted a bigger bowl of the stuff!


26: Young Peach Sorbet
And finally, the Chef's bracing young peach sorbet for dessert.

My last meal of the year was undoubtedly one of the best. Yama-san's doing great things here, serving up some truly awe-inspiring Japanese cuisine featuring pristine, luxurious ingredients and an uncommon talent for incorporating Western techniques and influences. Amazingly, even at $200+ per head, this meal was a superb value, delivering an Urasawa-esque experience for half the cost. And let's not forget the generous BYOB policy, the gracious service coordinated by Stan Liu, and the sheer intimacy of the whole experience (and I do emphasize experience). I think Yamakase's going to be the next big thing on the Japanese scene here in LA, and I almost didn't want to write this post lest reservations become harder to secure in the future! I'm already thinking about my return trip--it's that good. Seriously though, if you care at all about Japanese dining, you owe it to yourself to give this place a try, if you can get in of course.

Ceviche Nights (Los Angeles, CA)

January 5, 2013, 6:30 pm

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Ceviche Nights at Mo-Chica
514 W 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
cevichenights.eventbrite.com
Sun 12/16/2012, 06:30p-08:45p





Without a doubt, one of the most anticipated openings of early 2013 is that of Paiche in Marina del Rey, a new ceviche- and seafood-focused Peruvian concept from Ricardo Zarate and partner Stephane Bombet, the duo behind Mo-Chica and Picca. In preparation for the launch, they've collaborated with Josh Lurie of Food GPS to host a series of "Ceviche Nights" events, wherein some of LA's most vaunted chefs join forces to present their own twists on the Peruvian staple. The first night featured an all-uni spectacle with Josiah Citrin of Melisse and Matt Biancaniello on cocktails. Tonight, Zarate was joined by Bryant Ng (The Spice Table) and Kris Yenbamroong (Night+Market), along with Short Cake's Hourie Sahakian on dessert duty.


The seven-course Ceviche Nights menu was priced at a reasonable $75pp, inclusive of tax and tip, with 10% of the proceeds going toward the American Red Cross' Hurricane Sandy relief efforts. To drink, a Firestone Walker beer pairing was on offer for a mere $16, and Deysi Alvarez had six cocktails for us to choose from as well. Click for larger versions.


She Bang Bang [$12.00] | Esoplon Blanco, Campari, Fresh Raspberries, Fresh Lemon Juice, Homemade Ginger Syrup, Organic Agave Nectar
In lieu of the beer pairings, I decided to do cocktails instead. The She Bang Bang was quite nice, with the bittersweet taste of Campari and raspberry coming through initially, then transitioning to a boozy midpalate accented by blasts of piquancy from the lemon and ginger. Loved the salty finish from the rim, too.


1: Raw Scallop, Chiles, Scallions, Sesame, Dried Scallop Congee {Bryant Ng}
The Spice Table's Bryant Ng got things off to a strong start. A medallion of scallop was spot on: supple and saline, with a fantastic counterpoint and crunch in the form of the slivers of scallion, while the chile added a lovely trace of heat that lingered on and on. The congee, meanwhile, was even better, a hearty, satisfying potage with a rather profound amount of umami goodness and just a touch of creeping spice. It was something that I wanted to eat a big bowl of.


2: Ceviche De Conchas De Navaja ala Parilla / Grilled Razor Clams Ceviche, Aji Amarillo Dressing {Ricardo Zarate}
Zarate's razor clam was on point as well. Its texture was wonderfully snappy, yet tender, and I thoroughly enjoyed how the clam's brine was enhanced by the simultaneously savory yet tangy weight of the aji amarillo. I even appreciated the additional ocean-y goodness provided by the bed of seaweed underneath.


3: Nam Kao Tod / Crispy Rice Salad, Fermented Pork, Oysters, Raw Ginger, Onion, Bird Eye Chile, Peanuts by Kris {Kris Yenbamroong}
The nam kao tod is a favorite dish of mine at my local go-to Thai place, Renu Nakorn, and the version here from Night+Market's Kris Yenbamroong didn't disappoint either. It was a beautiful mélange of differing textures and tastes, with lovely overtones of ginger and citrus over a base of delightfully crisp rice and a growing, ferocious heat that got me glistening. The oyster, meanwhile, contributed a weighty salinity to the dish, adding a further point of focus and complexity.


Suavecito [$12.00] | Cava, Fresh Mint, Angostura Bitters, Fresh Lime Juice, Garnished w/ Mint Leaf
The Suavecito was an apéritif-like cocktail with the dry attack of cava shining through, moderated by a subtle fruitiness and an overarching hint of mint.


4: Prawn Ceviche, Peanut Sambal, Onion, Tomato, Crackers & Crispy Cereal Prawn Head (Cereal, Salted Egg Yolk, Curry Leaf) {Bryant Ng}
Chopped prawn had a firm, yet pliant consistency, with a delicate sweetness that paired well with its tangy tomato-based dressing. As for the head, it was delish, with the inherent salinity of the prawn melding well with the crunchy, nutty sweetness of the cereal.


5: Koi Wua - Isan / Beef Ceviche, Roasted Chile & Rice Powder {Kris Yenbamroong}
The koi wua was rather nice as well, with a beefy base deftly perked up by the fragrant herbs and peppers interspersed within. The key here, though, was the rice powder, which altered the mouthfeel of the dish, and also served as a keen moderating element in the course. Lovely crunch and lightness from the veggies, too.


Cumin to America [$11.00] | Fortaleza Tequila Blanco, Campari, Fresh Lemon Juice, Cumin Simple, Garnished w/ Lemon Peel
My favorite cocktail tonight was the Cumin to America, with its delectably sweet, spicy body and undercurrent of sour lemon. Beautifully integrated.


6: Ceviche De Pato Con Tacu Tacu De Pallares / Duck Confit in Hot Ceviche Stew & Pallares Tacu Tacu {Ricardo Zarate}
Zarate returned with the last savory course, and one of the most intensely flavored preparations of duck that I've ever had. The bird had a superbly crisp crust, showing off a pretty incredible depth, and was gorgeously set off by a bevy of citrus-y and herb-y nuances. At the same time, the lima beans served as a hearty complement to the course, grounding the dish perfectly.


7: Cranberry Pear Pie with Buttermilk Ice Cream & Bourbon Caramel Sauce {Hourie Sahakian}
Dessert came courtesy of Short Order's Hourie Sahakian, and was delicious as well. The combined sweetness of the berry and pear made sense together, and was nicely enhanced by the dark, sugary weight of the caramel, all while the ice cream added a cool, creamy counterweight to the course. Effective and traditional in essence, though I would've liked to have seen some more ceviche influence.

I wasn't quite sure what to expect coming into this, but the chefs actually pulled off a strong meal overall. I don't think all of the dishes quite qualified as ceviche per se, rather being more along the lines of ceviche-inspired, but I definitely appreciated the various riffs on the Peruvian classic. Given the success of the series, plans are to continue the dinners through early 2013, still held here at Mo-Chica, with a different group of local chefs. Paiche, meanwhile, is also set to open in the first quarter, and I think a neat idea might be to feature "guest ceviches" on the menu, crafted by a rotating selection of Zarate's colleagues.

Sushi Kimagure (Pasadena, CA)

January 9, 2013, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Barbershop Pop-Up (Los Angeles, CA)

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Sushi Kimagure Ike
220 S Raymond Ave, Pasadena, CA 91105
626.535.0880
Thu 12/27/2012, 07:00p-10:25p





One of the more notable sushi openings of recent times has been Sushi Kimagure in Pasadena, and I'm actually surprised that it's taken me this long to give the place a try. The restaurant is run by one Hiroshi Ikeda, better known as Ike-san. He's the man behind the longstanding Sushi Ike in Hollywood, which he opened way back in 1985. For over 20 years, it was the spot for sushi in the area, and garnered a large, loyal following. However, Ike-san sold the joint back in the latter part of 2010, and, from what it seems, the quality has taken a precipitous drop since then. Ikeda's best customers, though, have followed the chef to his new joint in Pasadena, which opened at the end of August 2011 in the former spot of cheese steak slanger Philly's Best, on the ground floor of the Del Mar Metro station complex.


As for Sushi Kimagure's menu, there's not much to it: omakase is the only way to go here. There's the flagship $80 "Matsu," the shorter $60 "Hana," as well as a $60 sushi-only choice. We went with the first option, supplemented by a few extra courses of sushi at the end. To drink, think the typical selection of beers, as well as a decent list of sakes. Click for larger versions.


To drink, we began with the Asahi Select [$3.80], probably my favorite of the standard Japanese beers. It's actually got a lot of flavor for a Japanese macro lager, with a good amount of malty character and a hint of fruit. Smooth and easy drinking.


1: Seafood Salad
The salad course brought along three types of seafood. First was the scallop, which I found creamy and fresh, with a clean, sweet relish and a tangy counterpoint in the form of that yellow sauce (I'm actually not sure what it was, tamamiso perhaps?). The Japanese mackerel, meanwhile, was spot on: firm and fishy, yet delicate and restrained at the same time. Rounding out the trio was the shrimp, snappy and supple, which had an inherent sweetness that paired well with its lemon-y overtones.


2: Yaki Tako
Ike-san's legendary for his grilled octopus, and it's obvious why. This might've been the tenderest preparation of the cephalopod that I've ever eaten, even beating out the remarkable example I'd had not long ago at Bestia. It was positively pillow-y in texture, with a fantastic char crispness to boot. Besides the stellar consistency of the tako, its taste was spot on as well: sweet and saline, yet with a wonderful bitterness and just a splash of citric tang on the finish. So good.


3: Sashimi
Our next course comprised no less than five varieties of sashimi. First up was the toro, which I found fatty, oily, and meltingly tender, albeit a bit sinewy--tasty alone, but it really opened up when taken with a dab of the included wasabi. The regular tuna, meanwhile, was soft and sticky, with a mild relish keenly accented by the application of 'sabi and soy. Crab was delish, cool and sweet, while the kanpachi was superb when brushed with a bit of murasaki. We ended with my favorite item on the plate: firm, fleshy cuts of halibut, fantastic when eaten with scallion, seaweed, and a dash of the included dipping sauce.


Moving on to sake now, we had here a bottle of the Akita Toji (Ginjo) [$65] from Akita Prefecture's Kimura Shuzo Brewery. I found it eminently balanced, a lovely blend of floral and fruity flavors with an undercurrent of rice and alcoholic nuances. Delicious.


4: Tempura
It'd been a while since I'd had a good tempura, so I was quite looking forward to Kimagure's presentation. It did not disappoint, with the light, crisp batter forming a fitting foil to the various items on the plate--mushroom, shishito, shrimp, squash--while letting their true character really shine through. The included tentsuyu dipping sauce, with its small pyramid of grated daikon, was quite appreciated as well.


5: Chawanmushi
Chawanmushi was hot, hearty, and satisfying, with the light egg custard playing off of the earthy mushrooms and various bits of seafood in expert fashion.


6: Toro
The sushi portion of the meal got off to a strong start with this cut of toro. It may not have looked like much, but displayed a perfect texture and fattiness that really was sort of the paradigmatic presentation of the tuna belly.


7: Kani
Crab legs were delightful, sweet and succulent, with a great salinity that melded beautifully with the band of nori here.


8: Tai
Sea bream was similarly delicious, supple and clean, with a fantastic, minty contrast from the sliver of shiso folded in.


9: Ikura / Uni
Some egg on egg action here. Salmon roe conveyed great pops of salinity, while the sea urchin was even better, with a creamy, sweet, ocean-y goodness that worked faultlessly with its seaweed wrapper.


10: Anago
Sea eel arrived dressed in a sweet-ish sauce, and showed off a citrus-y tinge that gradually transitioned to the brine of the anago. Its appearance marked the end of the standard sushi set, but we weren't quite full yet, so we requested a few more pieces to fill us up.


To pair with the rest of the dinner, we enjoyed a small bottle of Tsukiyo (Tokubetsu Honjozo) [$20], also from Kimura Shuzo. This one was drier, crisper, with more intensity and a stronger alcoholic presence, yet still smooth.


Awabi
Our first supplemental course was abalone, and it was just what I expected: a crunchy, briny eating experience duly highlighted by the burn of wasabi near the close.


Mentaiko-Yamaimo Temaki
Next, Ike-san prepared a hand roll featuring marinated roe and mountain yam. As you'd expect, the mentaiko displayed an intense saltiness that was countered by the crisp, mild, mucilaginous bits of yamaimo within, all while the greenery added a sharp, biting astringency to the course.


Engawa
The halibut fin was one of my favorites, with a marvelously chewy consistency and a slight lemon-y tang that really set off the fish. Nice!


Kohada
Our last savory course brought us kohada, or gizzard shad. This one was expectedly firm, with a fishy flair tempered by a thin sheet of battera kombu (pickled kelp). My complaint here was that too much skin was left on, resulting in some extra chewing being required.


11: Fruit
To close: a fruit platter, quite a welcomed sight after the heft of all the fish that we'd had.

Save for a couple peccadillos here and there, this was a strong showing from Ike-san, and should do well in appeasing old fans of the Hollywood spot. The food isn't too fancy here; instead, the Chef offers up a solid take on traditionalist sushi, intermingled with an appealing array of non-sushi dishes as well. I am curious to try the sushi-only tasting though. Some people are calling Kimagure the best sushi bar ever to hit Pasadena, and I can certainly believe it.

Barbershop Pop-Up (Los Angeles, CA)

January 9, 2013, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Hinoki & the Bird (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Sushi Kimagure (Pasadena, CA)

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Barbershop Ristorante Italiano
8700 W 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90048
424.272.5849
www.barbershop-venice.com
Wed 01/09/2013, 08:30p-11:40p





The last time we caught up with Walter El Nagar, he was serving as Chef de Cuisine at Sal Marino's longstanding Il Grano. Not long after that pretty remarkable meal, he left the restaurant and began working at Piccolo in Venice. From there, he transitioned to La Botte (where he'd previously consulted) in July, and had plans to overhaul the menu by November. However, by the time that rolled around, he'd already departed to begin work on Barbershop, his first solo project. To get the concept off the ground, El Nagar, like many chefs these days, instituted a pop-up, one set inside the recently-shuttered Il Covo, which itself had opened up in the old Orso space back in March 2011. The temporary restaurant kicked off on December 19th, and ran until the 12th of this month, Wednesdays through Saturdays. Chef El Nagar partnered with Piccolo veteran Mario Vollera, who also served as Wine Director, and was joined in the kitchen by LudoBites alum Chuck Kallal.


Barbershop occupied the upper floor of Il Covo, which, as you probably already know, is in the process of being converted to the new location of Suzanne Goin's AOC. The room is cozy and rustic, and features a sole Chef's Table that seats up to 16.


As far as Barbershop's menu is concerned, it was a prix fixe tasting of progressive Italian cuisine, set at $75pp, plus $45 for an optional wine pairing from Vollera. Click for a larger version.


To begin: quite possibly the lengthiest grissini (breadsticks) that I'd ever encountered.


Stuzzichini
A quartet of canapés was brought out next. I started with the so-called "Italian chicharrón," which I found nicely crisp and savory, with a lovely, citrus-y sauce as an accompaniment. I then moved on to the Luna oyster: firm and crisp, with a very focused salinity partly offset by the tart pomegranate notes in the bite. Next was the "Italian Spritzer," basically a spherification of Prosecco, Aperol, and orange that showed off some bittersweet flavors, but was rather watery and diluted. Finally, we had my favorite of the foursome, a delectably salty, satisfying chicken terrine.


1: Crudo di pesce, salse d'accompagnamento | DTLA fish market crudo
Pietracupa Greco di Tufo 2010
Next was a quintet of crudo. Going from back to front, we had:

• Scallop - Firm and fresh, with an intense, lingering brine moderated by the application of its Meyer lemon dressing.
• Amberjack - Hearty and sticky, with a subtle taste that wasn't overwhelmed by the surprisingly restrained sweetness of beet.
• Trevally Jack - A fish that you don't encounter all that often, with a superb tanginess from the accompanying blood orange.
• Red Sea Bream - Delicate and refined, with the best use of sauce in the form of that cilantro smear.
• Yellowtail - Nicely fatty, with a great texture and subtle kiwi tartness to balance things out a bit.

Here, Mario Vollera shows off the truffles used in our next course.


2: Insalata di funghi, tartufo e midollo | Mushrooms salad, black truffle and bone marrow
Nebbiolo Paitin 2009
A "salad" of mushroom brought together three different types of the fungus, including a dust of trumpet mushroom, on top of which was shaved black or white Alba (at an additional charge) truffle. There were some great textures here, with the crisp, crunchy, slightly gelatinous funghi providing an earthy veil to the dish, one that was then complemented by the rich, gooey bone marrow.


The bread basket included a delightfully salty focaccia, as well as some surprisingly saline squid ink rolls.


3: Risotto alle zucca, Gorgonzola e liquirizia | Carnaroli risotto with butternut squash, Gorgonzola cheese and licorice
Montepulciano Nottola 2008
A risotto incorporating squash and Gorgonzola was surprisingly delicious, one of the better preparations of the dish that I'd had in a while in fact. I loved the salty, funky bite of the bleu and how it enrobed and encapsulated every single grain of the properly al dente Carnaroli rice. If that wasn't enough, the butternut actually provided a delightfully sweet counterpoint to the cheese, making for a very balanced course overall.


4: Spaghetti cozze, bottarga e fagioli | Spaghetti with Carlsbad mussels emulsion, cannellini beans and bottarga
Venica Friulano 2010
Housemade spaghetti was another strong course, with a fantastic, overarching salinity from the combination of mussels and Sardinian bottarga that was dutifully moderated by the weighty, earthy beans. Lovely consistency on the noodles, too.


5: Rana pescatrice con il suo fegato, zabaione alle ostriche e piselli | Monk fish tail and liver, oyster and prosecco zabaione, English pea
Falanghina Feudi di San Gregorio 2010
El Nagar's monkfish, prepared sous vide, was divine, one of the best presentations of the fish I've had actually, with a beautifully spongy, springy, snappy texture and mildly saline taste that was wonderfully complemented by the lush, creamy sabayon. A disk of monkfish liver, meanwhile, was also served, and definitely lived up to its moniker as the foie gras of the sea, putting forth a rich, luxurious, briny character that was deftly tarted up by the use of English pea and a dusting of Maldon sea salt.


Here, we see the staff using liquid nitrogen to make an instant sorbet.


6: Sorbetto alla birra trappista | Trappist beer sorbet
Serving as a sort of palate cleanser, we had here a quenelle of Trappistes Rochefort 6, flash frozen using the LN2 above. It really was like drinking the beer, showing off the pure, unmitigated essence of the brew, but in a different textural form.


7: Amatriciana senza pasta | Pork jowl, pecorino foam, tomatoes
Balbium Magliocco 2009
Our last savory course brought us a reimagined version of the classic all'amatriciana, a traditional pasta sauce based on guanciale (cured pork jowl), pecorino, and tomato. Instead of the guanciale, we had instead a wonderfully tender cut of sous vide pork cheek. It was delicious all by itself, showing off a mouthwatering blend of porcine flavors, but also went superbly with the sauces, the pecorino providing a bit more heft to the dish, while the tomato inserted a well-placed tanginess into the mix.


8: Torrone descruito con I cachi | Deconstructed torrone with persimmon variation
Ca' Rossa Birbet Mosto Fermentato NV
Getting into the sweet stuff now, the first dessert course was El Nagar's version of a deconstructed torrone, traditionally a nougat-like Italian confection embedded with various nuts. The incarnation here, though, comprised pistachio-almond milk powder and persimmon over a base of egg and sugar. It was rather lovely, really recalling the classic candy with its multifaceted flavors and intriguing textures.


9: Torta di mele con fior di latte | Apple pie, milk ice cream
Ca' Rossa Birbet Mosto Fermentato NV
Last up was the Chef's riff on apple pie: a sponge cake, served with sous vide compressed apple and a mascarpone ice cream (taking the place of cheddar cheese?). It was a success, with the fruity sweetness of the dish pairing beautifully with the cool, tangy gelato, making for a delicious, and very well-integrated dessert.


To close, a cup of espresso.

It was nice to be able to catch up with Chef El Nagar again. Italian in LA is often criticized for being cookie-cutter, so I really appreciated what he was trying to do here: present the heart of Italian cookery, but with a slightly modern twist. It's actually something that I'd like to see done more often. As for what's next for the Chef, he plans to follow up with another round of Barbershop, after which he'll hopefully be moving into a permanent spot near his home in Venice. It'll be a tiny, intimate restaurant, serving perhaps a dozen diners in a bar-seating-only, tasting menu format, which is indeed very unusual for an Italian eatery. Should be interesting.

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Hinoki & the Bird (Los Angeles, CA)

January 17, 2013, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Sushi Murasaki (Santa Ana, CA)

≪ Previous: Barbershop Pop-Up (Los Angeles, CA)

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Hinoki and the Bird
10 W Century Dr, Century City, CA 90067
310.552.1200
www.hinokiandthebird.com
Thu 01/17/2013, 08:00p-11:40p



This year's first "big" debut comes to us in the form of the whimsically-monikered Hinoki & the Bird, the latest project from the David Myers Group and quite possibly the successor to Sona that we've been waiting for these past few years. The restaurant is housed on the ground floor of The Century, the priciest condo tower west of the Mississippi, and is helmed by Myers' prized protégé Kuniko Yagi, a current contestant on Top Chef: Seattle. As for the name, hinoki is a type of cypress tree that is meant to represent the spirit of Japan, while the "bird" encompasses Myers, Yagi, and the staff, whose worldly travels have ostensibly influenced the modern Cal-Asian cooking here.

About the Chef: Yagi hails from Maebashi, the capital city of Japan's Gunma Prefecture. She first began taking an interest in food due to her mother's cooking, but declined to pursue a career in the kitchen, instead opting for a "safer" profession, resulting in an unsatisfying position at a bank in Tokyo. She yearned to do something more creative, something that would allow her to create using her hands. As an escape, Yagi married an American and moved to Southern California in 2003. The marriage, however, was brief, and she soon found herself alone and looking for a job.

Given her limited English skills at the time, Yagi ended up working as a server at Ubon, NobuMatsuhisa's ill-fated noodle house. Here, her love of food was rekindled, and it just so happened that one of Ubon's regular customers was none other than David Myers. The two began talking, and Myers, impressed by her zeal and enthusiasm, offered her a job at Sona. She was 26 at this point. Thus, in 2004, Yagi began working at one of the best restaurants in LA, starting in prep, then the amuse station, then working her way up the line to sous before being named Chef de Cuisine in late 2007. She excelled in this post, even becoming one of StarChefs' Rising Stars, and held the position up until Sona's unfortunate shutter in May 2010.

After the closure, Yagi traveled to her homeland, staging across a number of eateries in Japan, including traditional Kyoto kaiseki restaurants Yachiyo and Konobu, under Chef Takuji Takahashi. In Tokyo, she interned at Seiji Yamamoto's much-talked-about modernist kaiseki joint Ryugin, as well as at Sushi Shin, where she made numerous visits to the famed Tsukiji fish market. Returning from Japan in mid-2011, Yagi worked a stint at EN Japanese Brasserie in New York, under Chef Abe Hiroki, then traveled to Paris and Italy (Milan, Venice, Florence, Rome) for additional inspiration. At this point, she became Executive Chef of Comme Ça here in LA, then left to film Season 10 of Top Chef. Following, Yagi took a tour of Southeast Asia to further broaden her horizons, and started work on bringing Hinoki & the Bird to life.


The Milo Garcia/MAI Studio-penned decor is a slight departure from the LA norm, which is appreciated. It's an indoor/outdoor space, wood-y and homey and multifaceted on the inside, anchored by a copper-topped communal table, cozy bar, and gleaming open kitchen (replete with binchotan charcoal grill). Further seating is available in the adjacent enclosed patio.


The Hinoki & the Bird menu is surprisingly lengthy, a celebration of globally-inflected Cali cooking split among smaller plates good for sharing, heartier mains, and some appealing sides. It's a dinner-only affair at the moment, but there are indeed plans to add lunch as well, and I'd love to see them offer a tasting menu option. Also worthy of note is the cocktail list, an intriguing selection with good breadth crafted by none other than New Yorker Sam Ross (Attaboy, Milk and Honey, Little Branch, Pegu Club, East Side Company Bar). Click for larger versions.


For all you winos out there, H&tB offers up a formidable wine list as well. Click for larger versions.


gordon's cup [$14.00] | gin, muddled lime, cucumber, szechuan pepper, salt
bird cup [$14.00] | our take on a pimms cup, muddled citrus
nakatomi plaza [$14.00] | choya plum wine, yamazaki, fresh pressed green apple
We were in a cocktail sort of mood though, and would eventually wind up sampling every single one of Ross' 14 creations. Our first round began with the Gordon's Cup, sort of the requisite gin-cucumber cocktail on the menu, but a good one at that; sure, the classic pairing of the cool cucumber and zesty, aromatic gin was spot on, but what really made this special was the spicy, savory overtones from the Sichuan pepper and salt. The Bird Cup, meanwhile, was the restaurant's version of the famed Pimm's Cup, lightly boozy and highly quaffable, with a tangy, fruity character over a somewhat medicinal backbone. Last up was the Die Hard-inspired Nakatomi Plaza (actually the nearby Fox Plaza), a neat little cocktail featuring an almost candy-esque apple-y sweetness intertwined with the smoky heft of the whiskey. Yippie-ki-yay.


scallops, grapefruit, lime leaf [$16.00]
Our first course brought us some supple medallions of scallop, mild and delicate, yet nicely accented by the bittersweet taste of its accompaniments. The crux of the dish, though, was the use of toasted rice, which added a fantastic savoriness on the finish, as well as a lovely crunch.


beef tartare, pickled jalapeno, parmigiano [$15.00]
Yagi's beef tartar, quite simply, may very well have been the best I've ever had. I loved the Asian-y slant of the dish, with its supple, springy chunks of steak expertly highlighted by the use of Parmesan and quail egg, while the jalapeño added a spicy, piquant contrast that lingered just on and on. It was a perfect mélange of flavors, gorgeously set on some wonderfully crusty, toasty pieces of bread.


marinated tuna, lemongrass salad [$16.00]
Tiles of tuna arrived at the table subtle and sticky, with a slight ocean-y savor that paired well against the bright, zesty nuances of the lemongrass salad.


1/2 dozen oysters, pear mignonette [$18.00]
Our oyster plate featured the Forbidden varietal, harvested from a private farm in Yorktown, VA, right on the Chesapeake Bay. I don't think I'd ever actually had these before, but they were on point: plump and crisp, with a focused salinity that paired nicely with the tangy sweetness of the pear mignonette.


hinoki swizzle [$14.00] | amontillado sherry, st germaine, fresh green apple & champagne
griffith park swizzle [$14.00] | bourbon, mint, lime, bitters & absinthe
jungle bird [$14.00] | black strap rum, pineapple, lime & campari
Round #2 commenced with the Hinoki Swizzle, a fascinating concoction with a coffee-like character from the sherry set off against the fruity, effervescent nature of the rest of the drink. The Griffith Park Swizzle, meanwhile, was considerably more intense, showing off an almost cough syrup-y nature from the booze, bitters, and absinthe that was only slightly moderated by the lime and mint used. The Jungle Bird, finally, was easily the most polarizing of the trio, a dark, viscous, saccharine, spicy libation with a bittersweet tinge that left some of us scratching our heads.


salt & pepper marinated calamari, ajwain-tomato jam [$13.00]
The "fun bites" portion of the menu (which almost seems like drinking food, a concession to the bar patrons) got off to a strong start with one of the best preparations of fried calamari that I'd ever eaten. One of my common complaints with the dish is an overly thick batter, but that wasn't the case here. Instead, the "crust" was light and thin, with a mouth-watering savor that transitioned gracefully to the supple cuts of squid contained within. The fritters were delicious alone, but the tangy, Indian-inflected dipping sauce was appreciated as well.


crispy marinated chicken, lemon aoli [$14.00]
Yagi's fried chicken (karaage?) was similarly delectable: tender and juicy, set in a delicate layer of batter and brimming with chicken-y goodness. Just think of these as the best chicken tenders you've ever had. The included sauce wasn't even necessary.


chili crab toast, spicy cucumber, coriander [$15.00]
The Chef's chili crab toast was another standout, actually reminding me of the excellent version of the dish at Starry Kitchen. I loved how the inherent sweetness and texture of the crab was so perfectly displayed here, yet not overwhelmed by the sharp, lingering heat in the dish. A must try.


fried oysters, black garlic aoli [$12.00]
Kaki furai were just as I expected, crisp and crunchy, with a well-placed brininess from the huge Hama Hamas. The interesting thing here was the included aioli, topped with a bit of black garlic that made the sauce a fitting temper to the bite of the oysters.


white negroni [$14.00] | amère sauvage (bitter gentian), bianco vermouth, rocks, grapefruit twist
harajuku [$14.00] | hakushu single malt whiskey, gran classico, byrrh quinquina & chocolate bitters
kingston negroni [$14.00] | smith + cross jamaican rum, gran classico, sweet vermouth, rocks, orange twist
Our third set of cocktails brought us variations on the negroni, reportedly Sam Ross' favorite drink. The White Negroni conveyed a base of vegetal, bittersweet flavors courtesy of the Amere Sauvage, balance by citrus-y overtones from the grapefruit. The Harajuku, on the other hand, had a sugary, almost candy-esque sweetness to it countered by a hefty base of booze and bitters. Rounding out the threesome was the Kingston Negroni, with the rum serving as a fitting replacement for the traditional gin, providing a bolder, sweeter taste to go along with the medicinal notes in the cocktail.


hinoki scented black cod, sweet potato, pistachio [$24.00]
The most intriguing section of the menu is titled "inspiration," and we delved into it with this beautifully-cooked black cod, replete with a sheet of burning hinoki that lent a sort of smoky veil to the dish. The fish was marvelous, one of the best preparations of black cod I've tasted: super flaky, meltingly tender, and undeniably buttery. It was superb alone, but the earthy mushrooms by its side were spot on as well. My only concern was the sweet potato, which I found overly sugary; I would've preferred a standard potato instead.


coconut-curried mussels, sausage, cauliflower [$19.00]
It seems like I've been having some really good luck with mussel dishes recently (e.g. Bestia), and this course just continued that trend. The mussels themselves, first off, were spot on: plump and satisfying, with a good brine to 'em. The key, though, was that phenomenal coconut curry, which put forth some mouth-watering sweet and herb-y notes that melded flawlessly with the mollusks. At the same time, the bits of sausage thrown it added a delightful saltiness to the course, while the cauliflower did wonders in providing a touch of lightness.


lobster roll, green curry, thai basil [$16.00]
I have a feeling that this is the dish that everyone will be talking about, and for good reason. It just might've been the tastiest version of the New England classic I've eaten, even beating out my current favorite at Son of a Gun. The lobster itself I found utterly sweet and springy, a spot-on presentation that was perfectly accented by the use of a wonderfully aromatic lemongrass-y curry. If that wasn't enough, the dark-as-night charcoal powder bread lent a fascinating visual cue to the dish, and also served as a fitting counterpoint to the crustacean.


caramel braised kurobuta pork belly, radish, mustard greens [$28.00]
The requisite pork belly course brought out something that was undoubtedly inspired by the classic Chinese hong shao rou. Unsurprisingly, the meat was falling-apart tender and fatty, with boatloads of deep, dark, umami-laced flavors tinged with a marked sweetness. Given the heft of the pork, I much appreciated the crisp mustard greens here, which really helped counteract the considerable weight of the belly.


clam chowder, celery leaf [$11.00]
We concluded this part of the menu with Yagi's riff on clam chowder. It was pretty amazing, with what little actual soup there was conveying the heady essence of the sea, augmented by actual bits of clam, and taken up yet another notch by the wonderfully salty dices of bacon. Tiny cubes of potato, meanwhile, served as a moderating element in the chowder, adding heft and body, while the celery provided a lovely touch of levity and vegetal astringency to the course.


tangerine caipirissima [$14.00] | white rum, lime, tangerine & brown sugar
seasonal fix [$14.00] | gin, rum, vodka or tequila, served with fresh lemon over muddled season fruit
tommy's #2 [$14.00] | tequila and/or mezcal, lime, orange & agave
Even more cocktails: The Tangerine Caipirissima was basically a caipirinha in essence, with a delightfully citrus-y character paired with an appealing sweetness from the brown sugar--quite refreshing. The Seasonal Fix gives imbibers a choice of base liquors and fruit. We requested a "dealer's choice," which resulted in a gin and grape concoction that was actually quite nice, with the bright flavors of the grape playing well with the floral, fragrant gin. Our version of Tommy's #2, lastly, came with mezcal, and it was a prototypical presentation of the spirit, contrasting the smoky, woody taste of the booze against the light, juicy citrus nuances present.


drunken duck breast [$24.00]
At this point, it was time to venture into the "simply grilled" dishes, which, I imagine, might be there to appeal to the less adventurous eaters that are bound to visit the restaurant (e.g. residents of The Century). Kicking things off was this duck, which I quite enjoyed. It actually possessed a pretty profound depth, with an immensely savory relish to it that might be too much for some--it definitely tasted like duck, that's for sure. The persimmons, meanwhile, were unnecessarily sweet, though some of my dining companions appreciated the fruit. Personally, I would've wanted to see some lighter, bitter greens to counteract the intensity of the bird.


maine lobster [$38.00]
An entire lobster arrived halved and grilled. The course showed off the classic notes of the crustacean that you'd expect, but tarted up by the use of ginger, cilantro, and a hefty sauce that somehow managed not to completely overwhelm the main ingredient. My concern here was that lobster was just a shade tough in certain places.


wagyu strip loin [$38.00]
Hinoki & the Bird's strip loin would put that at a lot of steakhouses to shame. Done to a properly rare temperature, it was tender to the bite, and displayed an immense beefy goodness that was keenly accented by a salty outer crust. The greenery on the plate, meanwhile, provided a fitting, bitter temper to the meat. Just a lovely steak overall.


sambal skate wing [$21.00]
The skate wing was my favorite item in this section, and one of my favorite preparations of the fish ever. Served on the bone, the skate was oh-so tender, and even slightly gelatinous, with a fantastic touch of heat from the sambal. The included bowl of pungent fish sauce provided even more complexity to the dish, but wasn't strictly necessary for me.


grilled winter mushrooms, sea salt, lime [$12.00]
Moving on to the side dishes now, our server recommended these mushrooms, and she was right on the money. We had here oyster and shiitake varieties, and they each were spot on, really conveying the earthy, umami-laden flavors that I was expecting, but taken up a notch by a dash of lime and sea salt.


haricot vert, sesame [$9.00]
The green beans were excellent: crisp and bright, but with a fantastic counterpoint in the form of that toasty, savory sesame.


braised shitake mushroom [$11.00]
Our final side comprised more shiitakes, but this time in braised form. They were utterly classic in essence, but with a really smart complement in the form of that spicy-salty yuzukosho.


classic negroni [$14.00] | gin, sweet vermouth & campari, rocks, orange twist
dark 'n stormy [$14.00] | bermudan rum, fresh ginger & lime
At this point, I don't think we really needed more cocktails, but we were two away from "gamuting" the list, so we figured what the hell. The Classic Negroni was just that, a quintessential expression of the drink highlighting its bittersweet taste. The Dark 'n Stormy was similarly prototypical, with a perfect balance of boozy and fruity flavors against an undercurrent of refreshing ginger notes.


braised lamb, tiny potatoes, cumin seed [$25.00]
We were ready for dessert now, but we had two go-backs on the menu. The first was this lamb, requested by one of my fellow diners. Tender, though a touch dry, the meat was fairly intense, with distinct lamb-y flavors that might veer toward overly gamy for some. The yellow curry, thus, was much appreciated, providing a South Asian-inspired counterweight to the meat. I loved those hearty pee wee potatoes as well.


kale, crispy and raw, curried almonds, pecorino, red wine vinaigrette [$12.00]
Our final savory came courtesy of the Nick, the restaurant's affable General Manager. It's one of his favorite items on the menu, and became one of mine as well. In fact, it was the best salad I've had since the one I had at Bereket, which, coincidentally, also featured kale. The veggie arrived in three forms and three preparations--braised, fried, and raw--making for a multifaceted bitterness that was beautifully accentuated by the delightful curry almonds and salty shavings of Pecorino cheese. The vinaigrette, meanwhile, added an overarching tanginess to the course that did wonders in tying all the elements together.


Desserts here at Hinoki & the Bird are handled by none other than Pastry Chef Ramon Perez, whom we last encountered at a special 5weet & Savory dinner at Breadbar. Click for a larger version.


miso ice cream, butterscotch, togarashi [$4.00]
Perez offers up a rotating selection of "rice creams," which basically amount to mochi ice cream, and naturally, we had to try 'em all. The first really worked in showing off the savory flair of the miso, which went flawlessly against the unabashed sugariness of the butterscotch, all while togarashi added an extra hint of spice to the mix.


black sesame ice cream, lemon, hibiscus [$4.00]
The black sesame version was all up in-your-face, offering up a bold blast of sweet sesame goodness that recalled the potency of tangyuan filling. To that, lemon and hibiscus served as apt foils to the intensity of the ice cream.


honey ice cream, persimmon, licorice caramel [$4.00]
The honey ice cream, as you'd imagine, was unapologetically saccharine, and augmented even more by that rich, viscous caramel. The licorice element in there actually served to moderate the overt sweetness at play, as did the diced persimmon.


meyer lemon shaved ice, pink lady apple, greek yogurt, pistachio [$8.00]
Next, we moved on to Perez's plated desserts, which definitely had a certain avant garde flair to them. The first did an admirable job in putting together some disparate tastes and textures, really conveying an interplay of sweet, sour, and almost perfume-y flavors set off by a focused savory element.


steamed banana cake, saffron cremeux, frozen coconut, hazelnut [$8.00]
The banana cake didn't get much love around the table, though I enjoyed it. The star of the show here was clearly that cake, which was dense and substantial, loaded with sugary banana flavors. What made it work, though, was the layering of flavors from the grassy saffron and subtly sweet coconut.


matcha zephyr, matcha sponge cake, zephyr namelaka, yuzu [$8.00]
What ended up being the table favorite among the desserts was this matcha cake, which really did a nice job in setting the bittersweet flavors of the cake against the tart and tangy bite of yuzu. Some lovely textures here, too.


chocolate-praline, malt cake, milk chocolate jelly, cocoa nib [$8.00]
Last up, natch, was Perez's chocolate dessert, which had a base of nutty, chocolate-y, and satisfying sweetness that I found reminiscent of gianduja. It was great to see the various forms and facets of cacao here, and I especially appreciated the bright, herbaceous accents in the dish.


David Myers, Kuniko Yagi, Ramon Perez, and the entire Hinoki & the Bird opening crew.

This was an impressive meal overall, and Hinoki & the Bird is no doubt a worthy addition to Myers' burgeoning empire. Chef Yagi has clearly upped her game since we last saw her at Sona. Her cooking has progressed nicely, and the plates we witnessed tonight point toward a focused, almost minimalistic, yet organic style that oozes vibrancy and robustness in flavors--a deft blend of Asian influences and modern American flair. Desserts and cocktails, meanwhile, were also on point, undoubtedly contributing to the appeal of the place. There's no question that H&tB is one of the most promising new debuts in recent times--a bit less formal than Sona, but just as engaging, and arguably even more exciting. I'm looking forward to seeing how this all evolves.

Sushi Murasaki (Santa Ana, CA)

January 23, 2013, 6:50 pm

≫ Next: The Royce (Pasadena, CA) [6]

≪ Previous: Hinoki & the Bird (Los Angeles, CA)

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Sushi Murasaki
2901 W MacArthur Blvd, Santa Ana, CA 92704
714.241.1000
www.sushi-murasaki.com
Fri 12/28/2012, 06:50p-09:15p



Named after a slang term for soy sauce, Murasaki has been on my OC sushi to-eat list for a while now. Opened in April 2007, the restaurant is owned by Tsutomu Saito (Tomu-san) and Daisuke Tamaki (Dai-san), who are also the two main chefs. I don't make it to Orange County too much these days, but a trip down to my wine cellar in Irvine gave me a good excuse to pop in for a visit.


Inside, swaths of purple abound, fitting given that murasaki is also the Japanese word for the color. The decor is interesting, sort of a traditional sushi bar-meets-Pottery Barn aesthetic. There are a handful of tables available, but the real action is in front of the two chefs at the 10-seater counter.


If you sit at the bar, you'll bypass the main menu (with its chicken teriyaki and other bagatelles) and go straight for an omakase experience. There's not really a set price, so the chefs will keep going until you tell them to stop basically. Our tab came out to a rather reasonable $106.95 a head for 25 courses, not including tax, gratuity, or beverages. Speaking of the tipple, you'll find your typical selection of beers, a few wines, and a decent list of sakes and shochus; I'd pay special attention to the seasonal sake offerings. Click for larger versions.


Along with the requisite gari, a small bowl of kyuri tsukemono (pickled cucumber) was placed before us.


To drink, we ordered up a bottle of the Wakatake Onikoroshi "Akino Ki-Ippon" [$44], a tokubetsu junmai namazume sake from Shizuoka Prefecture. It was delicious, very fresh, and very smooth, with a distinct, yet delicate fruity character over a subtle base of savory complexity. Yum.


1: Kuromaguro
Our gauntlet of sushi got off to a strong start with this glistening, ruby red cut of blue fin tuna. The fish showed off a surprisingly satisfying depth, with a delightful, creeping brine countered by the zing of wasabi.


2: Hirame
A serving of halibut was light, pillow-y almost, with a mild relish accented by the fish's tangy sauce and a bit of heat on the finish.


3: Hamachi
The ubiquitous yellowtail I found spot on: fatty and beautifully complemented by soy sauce, with a good wasabi burn toward the end. I quite appreciated the cross hatching pattern inscribed on the fish here as well.


4: Tai
I'd never had a red snapper quite like this before. The fish itself was on point, but the crux of the course was the application of pepper sauce, which added a fantastic, lingering savoriness on the midpalate that really took the fish to the next level. Excellent.


5: Seared Hotate
The seared scallop was outstanding as well, with the sweetness of the bivalve playing gorgeously off of the bitterness of the char, all while wasabi gave the bite a tinge of heat on the close.


6: Kanpachi
Amberjack was tarted up perfectly by a dab of yuzukosho, which added a salty, spicy counterpoint to the undeniably clean, focused flavor of the fish. Delish.


7: Ebi
I would've liked some amaebi somewhere in the meal, but a cooked presentation of jumbo tiger shrimp certainly didn't disappoint. The snappy, springy texture of the ebi was much appreciated here, but the key was that intense, earthy, garlicky sauce on top, made using the liver of the crustacean.


8: Aji
Next up was a prototypical presentation of horse mackerel. The scallion and ginger combo really contrasted the intensity of the fish here, but was actually a touch strong for me, as I would've liked the aji to have shown through more.


9: Seared Sake
The seared salmon belly was another standout of the meal: lush and fatty, and just bursting with smoky, savory, oily flair, all accented by a wonderful char and crunchy pricks of salt. Oishii desu.


10: Toro
Tuna belly was just what I expected, conveying an unabashedly soft, melty consistency, loaded with fishy goodness and perfectly counteracted by the application of soy.


11: Awabi
Abalone I found delightfully crunchy, with a stark, saline savor that was nicely accentuated by the umami-rich relish of the nori.


12: Mirugai
The geoduck, meanwhile, had a marvelous bite to it, simultaneously crisp, yet yielding, with a great brininess to boot.


13: Anago
Murasaki's sea eel was truly something special, arguably the best presentation of the fish that I'd ever had in fact. The key was what my dining companion described as a "multifaceted salinity," a deft combination of salty, ocean-y flavors that worked perfectly in concert with each other. Loved the crisp "crust" on the eel, too.


14: Uni
The sea urchin was cold, creamy, and sweet, with a lovely counterpoint in the form of the nori, but there was a bitterness on the finish that I wasn't too keen on.


15: Wagyu
Tonight's wagyu was from Kagoshima Prefecture, and was pretty amazing, with the rich, luxurious nature of the beef deftly balanced by the astringent char as well as a lovely piquancy from its acidic dressing.


With our first sake all drunk up, we opted for a small (300mL) bottle of Dassai 50 Daiginjyo [$21] to conclude the meal with. Compared to the "Demon Slayer" above, this one was heftier, with an almost sticky sweetness and round, viscous body and an undercurrent of rice-y and alcoholic notes.


16: Kaki
Oyster sushi utilized Kusshis, one of my favorites, and was delicious, with a great mix of sweet-saline flavors tempered by the use of scallion and momiji oroshi. During this course, we started talking with Dai-san about oysters, and ended up suggesting that he look into Shigokus, which I'd first had at Ohshima. Interestingly, Dai-san mentioned that Ohshima's owner had just eaten at the restaurant days prior--it's a small sushi world.


17: Engawa
Halibut fin was a real treat as well, with its chewy consistency on proud display here. Lovely flavor too, with a nice tartness and sharp pinpoints of salt.


18: Ika
Squid was next, and conveyed a creamy, mouth-coating consistency and a mild relish set off by the use of shiso and ginger.


19: Wagyu Steak
At this point, Tomu-san brought out a beef course that he'd created on the fly. It was a hefty dish, with loads of bovine goodness and a lovely earthiness courtesy of the mushrooms, all accented by a kick of wasabi. I would've liked some more acidity here though, to balance out the intensely savory, salty flavors at play.


20: Kohada
Moving back to sushi now, the gizzard shad was quite nice, firm in texture, with a great fishy character that was adroitly moderated by a small sliver of shiso.


21: Seared Toro
You can't go wrong with seared toro, and this was no exception. As expected, the tuna was wonderfully rich, oily, and yes, unctuous, with a superb char bitterness and a cool center, which made for an intriguing contrast in temperatures.


22: Spicy Blue Crab Temaki with Habanero Masago
Here was Murasaki's take on the classic blue crab hand roll, and it was pretty amazing. The cool, sweet relish of the watarigani certainly made itself known, but the heat from the capelin roe was a really smart move, serving to counteract, yet not diminish the natural flavors of the crab. Loved the astringent bite of the greens here, too.


23: Toro-Takuan Maki
Next was a hosomaki filled with toro and takuan, with the weight of the tuna nicely offset by the crisp, tangy nature of the pickled daikon slices.


24: Tamago
The standard finisher of egg omelet was right on the money: dense in body, with a cool, sweet, hammy flavor.


At this point, we were offered our choice of sweets off of the dessert menu. Click for a larger version.


25a: Pannacotta
The soymilk panna cotta I found nice enough, with the light, subtly-flavored cream serving as a foil to the tart, tangy berry reduction up top.


25b: Smooth Pudding
Last up was Murasaki's signature dessert, which is almost like a Japanese flan. As the name implies, the custard was certainly smooth, with a mild vanilla flavor that played perfectly off of the sugary nuances of caramel present. The dollop of cream on top was a fitting touch as well.


Chef/Owners Tomu-san and Dai-san are two wild and crazy guys.

I'm certainly glad I gave Sushi Murasaki a go. The food was largely delicious, with just a few minor quibbles here and there, and the lighthearted approach of the chefs was a welcomed change of pace as well (vis-à-vis the almost uncomfortably serious, stoic environs at a place like Kasen). It was definitely one of the better sushi experiences I've had in Orange County (and a good value too), and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it for all my sushi aficionados out there.

The Royce (Pasadena, CA) [6]

January 26, 2013, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Wolvesmouth Underground Dinner (Los Angeles, CA) [4]

≪ Previous: Sushi Murasaki (Santa Ana, CA)

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The Royce at The Langham
1401 S Oak Knoll Ave, Pasadena, CA 91106
626.585.6410
www.roycela.com
Sat 01/26/2013, 07:30p-01:25a





The Langham just can't seem to catch a break when it comes to its flagship restaurant. Old timey readers may recall that I was there for Michael Voltaggio's last night at The Dining Room back in July 2010. His stint there didn't even last a year, and he himself was a replacement for Craig Strong, who left to head up the kitchens of Studio down in Laguna Beach. I'm sad to say that I recently closed out the tenure of another chef, the talented David Féau, during the final night of service at The Royce. Ever since my first visit to the restaurant, I'd recognized the considerable skills of Chef Féau, who has consistently turned out plate after plate of some of the finest cuisine the Southland has seen. In the back of my mind, however, I always had an inkling that the place wouldn't last. Féau's cooking had too much finesse, too much complexity for guests of the old line hotel, and denizens of Pasadena in general. It never was a great fit I suppose, and though the Chef and his staff hung on for over two years, the Langham finally pulled the plug last December. It was a surprise to me, but then again, it sort of wasn't sadly.


Tonight, the menu for the whole restaurant was a $150 tasting with an optional $75 wine pairing, though Féau did include a few extra courses for our party at the Chef's Table. Click for a larger version.


1: "SENSES AMUSE" | sucré - acid - salé - fumé - croquant
Our first course comprised a striking quenelle of beet sorbet, coated with crème fraîche, dotted with caviar, and dusted with kaffir lime. It was a masterful presentation of beet, a stimulating jolt that deftly played the inherent sugariness of the root veggie against the salty, smoky roe and sharp sourness of the lime, all while the crème fraîche served to moderate and integrate the dish.


The housemade bread this evening included olive, bacon, and French baguette varieties.


2: SPINY LOBSTER | DAIKON RADISH | raw marinated spiny lobster, horseradish daikon "remoulade", sesame beets, escarole
Our first "bonus" course was spiny lobster from nearby Santa Barbara. The crustacean itself was spot on: supple and snappy, with a lovely freshness to it along with a subtly sweet brine. It was superb alone, but also went well with its pairing of a reimagined remoulade, which lent a certain savory, piquant weight and slight bitterness to the dish. Lovely crunch from the daikon as well, and I appreciated the sort of overarching sesame notes here too.


3: CLAMS | SEAWEED | steamed razor clams, "french kimchi", seaweed broth
The Chef's preparation of razor clam was easily one of the best I've had. The bivalve arrived steamed to a wonderfully firm, yet tender consistency, and was just teeming with a briny goodness that was only enhanced by the heady, aromatic clam-seaweed broth. Sea lettuce powder and sea grapes provided further points of interest in the dish, but the best accoutrement here was that "kimchi," which offered up a beautiful countervailing tanginess. Toward the end, I eagerly supped up the remaining liquid with my bread.


4: ARTICHOKE | LARDO | anzo artichoke "tulipe", white mushroom, lardo, mache bouquet
A "tulip" of artichoke came out looking quite handsome, grilled and draped with a veil of lardo and drizzled with espelette. The heart and stem here were certainly tender, with an earthy, vegetal flair that played off the considerable weight of the fatback, as well as the sweet-spicy flavors in the dish.


Next up was a gorgeous fillet of turbot, presented and plated tableside by Chef Féau.


5: TURBOT | MUSHROOM | seared turbot cheek, celery fish stock, cauliflower "tofu", hedgehog mushrooms, ginkgo nut
The turbot was just about perfect, with a beautiful texture (especially the cheek portion) and a refined, yet robust flavor. It was mouth-wateringly delicious alone, but the additional earthiness of the hedgehogs and lightness of the celery really made the dish sing. This just might've been the best turbot I'd ever had.


6: BLACK MULLET | FISH SOUP | seared black mullet fillet à la plancha, potato emulsion, canella fish jus, carrot-candy, fennel
In our next extra course, black mullet came out in flawless fashion, perfectly seared and just teeming with a fishy savoriness that was expertly played off of the tangy flavors of the fennel, tomatillo, and scarlet turnip. If that wasn't enough, we were also provided a potage made with fish head, shallot, and paprika, all contained under a potato espuma. The soup was something else, delivering a punch of ocean-y intensity, only slightly tempered by the potato.


At this point, Chef Féau teased us with a trio of French black Périgord truffles placed on the table, which he then proceed to shave generously over the next course. It was the height of truffle season, so the perfume on these was pretty incredible.


7: LENTILS | BLACK TRUFFLE | green lentils "du puy" & sweet peas ragoutté, pumpkin seeds, shaved winter black truffle
The famed lentils from the French region of Le Puy were done proud here. Served with pepitas, the amalgam of nutty, crunchy, and earthy sensations was beautifully set off by the amazing depth of the truffles, all while the peas added a contrasting sweetness and brightness to the course. A perfect dish--I just wanted to keep eating and eating.


8a: WAGYU | TWO SERVICES
The first of two beef preparations was the bone marrow "tempura." It reminded me a bit of a cromesquis, and its liquid-y center was just teeming with the rich, heady flavors of the moelle osseuse. A bordelaise sauce added further interest to the fritter, while the layers of shaved foie gras actually served to lighten the dish. There was a lovely peppery finish to the course, but I would've liked something--more acidity, more bitterness--to balance out the heft of the marrow.


8b: WAGYU | TWO SERVICES
Our final savory course brought us a Rossini-inspired cut of wagyu rib eye cap with bordelaise. The steak I found expectedly tender and fatty, with a boatload of bovine goodness and a nice char bitterness, all while the included greens provided a trace of levity to things. The foie gras, meanwhile, was presented in classic fashion, well-seared, and with lovely pricks of offsetting salinity; the portion size should've been smaller though.


9: GOAT TOMME | WHITE TRUFFLE | tomme de chevre, crispin apple, hazelnut, piemonte white truffle honey
Chef Féau has always been good about presenting some really strong, inventive cheese courses, and this dish just continued that trend. The Tomme here was dehydrated I believe, giving it a wonderfully salty, yet subdued flavor profile that paired in stellar fashion with the tart, juicy, translucent sheets of apple and sugary lines of honey, while the shavings of black truffle offered up a profound earthiness that did a great job in enveloping the entire dish. Bravo!


10: SUSHI RICE | LEMON GRASS | creamy vanilla "sushi rice", lemon grass milk
Our sort of pre-dessert was a dollop of vinegared rice pudding, set against a lemongrass milk. It was a light, refreshing smack to the palate, with the rice playing well off of the sweet, herby nuances in the dish.


Three types of petit fours were then brought out: nutty-sweet chocolate nougats, tart 'n' savory mini key lime pies, and my favorite, the delightful cheese tarts.


11: CREPE SUZETTE | WHITE CHOCOLATE | "crepe suzette", frozen chocolate ganache, valencia orange grand marnier, grapefruit ice cream
Dessert was a riff on the classic crêpe Suzette. It really did a nice job in conveying the quintessence of the traditional dish, with the sugary, boozy, and citrus notes working together here in good harmony. Lovely texture on the actual crêpe, too. I found the whole thing strangely reminiscent of an orange creamsicle!


12: PETIT FOURS & CHOCOLATE | the royce selection
Finishing things off was The Royce's signature squares of chocolate (fleur de sel dark, espresso milk, espelette white) and a cup of espresso.

By the time you read this, The Royce as we know it will be done, finished, fini. The restaurant will be revamped a bit, and will transform into a high-end steakhouse. It's not the most exciting concept, but at least it might become a candidate to take over the void left by CUT. The Royce v2.0 is slated to launch soon, in late February/early March, and I imagine I'll be there opening night in classic kevinEats fashion.

What's more interesting, though, is the fate of David Feau. Fortunately for us, he's not done with LA yet, and is planning his next move, probably a small, intimate place connected to a retail/wholesale boutique and boulangerie in South Pasadena. It's the type of venue that I think is better suited for the Chef's style of cooking, and the shop section of the business should provide for more financial stability. Look for the boutique to come to fruition in the coming months, with the restaurant to follow sometime after. À bientôt David!

Wolvesmouth Underground Dinner (Los Angeles, CA) [4]

January 29, 2013, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: City Club (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: The Royce (Pasadena, CA) [6]

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Wolvesmouth Underground Dinner
Los Angeles, CA 90012
www.wolvesmouth.com
Tue 01/29/2013, 07:30p-11:30p



As I'm sure you've heard, Craig Thornton's inimitable Wolvesden is moving. That's right, the City's preeminent underground chef will be on the up-and-up come later this year, his hand forced by the inevitable limitations of running such an ephemeral eatery. Ever since my first Wolvesmouth meal (when they were still being run out of Shaun White's house), I've always deemed it undoubtedly one of LA's premier dining experiences. As such, a return trip was certainly in order prior to the big move, and a private dinner hosted by longtime reader Paul Lee was a great opportunity to revisit.


1: venison - pine - beet - blackberry beet - cauliflower - hen of the woods - blueberry meringue
The evening got off to a robust start with an absolutely visually-striking plate of venison. The deer was about as perfect as you can get, with a great depth and complexity and an almost fishy flair (from the pine?) that I really appreciated--wonderful. Also fitting were the accoutrements: the earthy mushrooms were a natural pair with the meat, and I enjoyed the lightness imparted by the cauliflower as well. However, the best part was the incorporation of blackberry, blueberry, and raspberry. Pairing berries with venison is old hat by this point, but the use of the fruit in various forms here lent a sort of overarching, yet subtle sweetness that really worked. I loved how Thornton served what would typically amount to a final savory course as his first dish; to hell with the amuse bouche!


Wolvesmouth has always been a BYOB affair, and we took full advantage of that fact. As you can probably tell, I've been on a bit of a beer binge as of late, so I ended up contributing six bottles from my stash. Starting things off was the Chimay Spéciale Cent Cinquante, which I imagine must be the brewery's first new beer in decades. It was made to commemorate their 150th anniversary, and 2,500 cases were distributed to only six states in the US, so this one was pretty rare. The beer did not disappoint, displaying a sort of Chimay White character, but with a spicier taste (from cardamom and coriander apparently) and a touch more hoppiness. An absolutely lovely tripel.


2: tuna - ponzu - squid ink tofu yuzukosho - mizuna - wasabi pea - snap pea - green onion - bok choy - sesame - uni
In New American cooking, is there anything more clichéd than seared tuna (preferably sesame crusted)? Well, here, Thornton takes what could be a trite dish and turns it completely on its head. The fish was on point to be sure, but what really made this special was how the various veggies complemented the tuna, bringing forth a bevy of bright, verdant flavors and multifaceted textures, all tied together by that tangy ponzu. If that wasn't enough, the combo of urchin and avocado added a palpable lushness to the plate that played foil to the greenery, and I loved the crunch and sheer savoriness of those wasabi peas as well.


3: broccoli - broccoli stalk - black cod - broccoli puree - lime
The Chef then delivered a seemingly simple-looking plate that held another stroke of brilliance. I'm a bit of a broccoli fiend, so the course was right up my alley, offering it up in tempura'd, stalk, and puréed with lime forms--a real celebration of the vegetable. The fish, though, was just as inviting: supple and buttery, a bit fatty, and rather profound, it was probably the best bite of black cod that I've ever had, and fantastic when taken with the broccoli in all its guises.


Our next bottle was an obscure Italian, the Birrificio Montegioco Tibir, an ale brewed with the addition of Timorasso grapes (used to make grappa) and aged in oak. This one was also to my liking, with its slightly bready, slightly funky flair and a delectably vinous character.


4: delicata - carrot - cabbage - coffee lime yogurt - cabbage-carrot - cocoa coffee - mustard
Carrot and squash: usually not a good combination given my disdain for their sweetness. This dish, though, worked, and had the added benefit of being rather stunning to look at (loved that shade of purple). The key, thus, was the use of crunchy shards of cabbage to counteract the sugariness inherent on the plate--genius. It was a stupendous match-up, and I quite appreciated the enveloping astringency imparted by the cocoa-coffee crumbles too.


5: crepe - red pepper harissa soubise - rabbit - celery root - cherry - brussels
With his "Swiss fondue," Thornton already holds the title for my favorite preparation of rabbit ever, but this dish is certainly a contender as well. Indeed, the meatballs here--all tender and juicy--were simply bursting with flavor; my mind was a bit blown given how much taste he was able to extract. I could've eaten a whole bunch of 'em all alone, but that would be missing the point, as that harissa was fantastic, providing just a light touch of heat and piquancy to go along with the meat. Let's not forget about the moderating effect of the crepe, and of course I was a fan of those pleasantly-bitter, cider-glazed Brussels sprouts as well.


For our third beer, we returned to Belgium with the Het Anker Cuvée Van De Keizer Rood, a strong pale ale from Flanders that's only brewed once a year on the birthday of Charles V (February 24th). This particular example was of the 2010 vintage and managed to be a table favorite, showing off the essence of a classic pale ale, but with something extra that I couldn't quite put my finger on--sort of like a sweet, earthy depth that I adored.


6: potato green garlic velouté - kiwi - egg - fried potato
Potato and egg are two of my favorite ingredients, so this was sort of a no-brainer. The egg arrived perfectly poached, and when pierced, unleashed a torrent of lush, rich goodness into the velouté, forming a delectable marriage that was then accented by the saltiness of those wonderfully crunchy potato chips. I really appreciated the use of pea tendril here to add some lightness into the mix too, while the kiwi provided a bright point of tartness to things. Classic flavors, but done up Wolvesmouth style.


The first American beer of the night was the Uinta Birthday Suit, an ale brewed with cherries. It was easily the most polarizing drink of the night given its marked, puckering sourness and balance of fruity sweetness, all laced with a hint of earthy funk.


7: green apple - grilled pineapple - lobster - sweet potato latkes - pork belly - lobster sauce - radish - chive
Thornton described his pork belly as "unabashedly savory" upon arriving at the table, and it was hard to argue with that. Indeed, the meat, a deft balance of lean and fat, conveyed all the headiness that you'd expect, but was further amped up by its accompanying lobster head sauce. The sauce, thus, also served to link the belly up with the fresh, sweet chunks of lobster on the side, and I positively adored those latkes as well--they were something that you'd just want a big plate of.


To pair with the heartier courses, I went with the Rogue XS Imperial India Pale Ale, a great example of the IPA style really, everything that you'd expect, with an apt balance between the hops and the caramel-y malt. Loved the ceramic bottle on this one, too.


8: blue cheese buttermilk - quail - cucumber - peanut - green tomato - pink lady - turnip - cucumber juice - grilled baby gem
Rounding out the savory portion of our meal was this buttermilk-fried, cornichon-marinated quail. The bird I found full of flavor, tender and juicy on the inside but coated with a delightfully crisp batter, all while the blue cheese added a certain tanginess to the overall effort. The use of cucumber in two forms, meanwhile, contributed a nice balance to the dish, but even better that was grilled baby gem and its crisp bite and char bitterness.


The final birra of the night, another hard-to-find Italian, was perhaps my favorite. The Birrificio Di Como Malthus Baluba was something that I'd had back in 2009 at Sage in Las Vegas. I fell in love with it then, and the memory of the beer stayed with me throughout the years until I finally decided to seek out a bottle. A dark ale produced with apricot, pineapple, ginger, and rue, it wowed a lot of us at the table with its combination of saccharine, acidic, wine-like flavors and an almost effervescent levity. A bit esoteric, but utterly divine.


9: cajeta - pistachio - banana - chocolate - glazed banana - freeze dried banana
Banana haters need not apply for our first dessert, which did an admirable job in showing off the fruit in various forms. As prevalent as the banana was, though, it was never overwhelming, but rather served as a restrained base to the dish, working seamlessly with the nutty pistachio cake while the cajeta added a touch of sugary spice to the fray.


10: mandarin - green tea - clementine - black sesame cake - black sesame parfait - yuzu curd
We concluded the evening with a course featuring one of my favorite dessert ingredients: black sesame. The sweet-yet-sorta-savory character of the sesame was flawlessly conveyed here, and I appreciated how it arrived into two forms. What really made this work, though, was its interplay with the tartness of the citrus fruit, making for a good mix of the sugary and the sour. Topping things off was a sprinkling of "pop rocks," which added a whimsical touch to the dish.


The current Wolvesmouth team: Andy, Shane, Craig, Caleb, Julian, Kimchi (dog). Not pictured: Bone and Paz.

It'd been a while since my last Wolvesmouth dinner, and tonight just reminded me of why the place needs to be on everyone's radar. The food was delicious sure, but also unconventional, beautiful, and painstakingly precise, with a certain confidence, clarity, and vision that's hard to come by--Thornton's cooking has gotten even better. Nobody's doing food quite like him in LA, and that's a fantastic thing. As for his future place, it'll be a small, intimate spot, with maybe two dozen seats, one that'll allow the Chef to offer the type of experience that he's made a name for himself with. The restaurant will likely be located in close proximity to his current loft near Little Tokyo, and may offer a lunch/take-out component as well. Sign me up.

City Club (Los Angeles, CA)

January 31, 2013, 7:15 pm

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City Club on Bunker Hill
333 S Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90071
213.620.9662
www.icityclub.com
Thu 01/31/2013, 07:15p-09:30p



When you think of private social clubs in LA, old-line names such as the Jonathan Club, California Club, and Los Angeles Athletic Club inevitably come to mind. However, you may not be aware of the newest member of that pantheon: the City Club on Bunker Hill. As a relative fledgling to the scene (it launched in 1989), the City Club prides itself on maintaining a more diverse (both in terms of race and gender), younger membership base. To that effect, the Club supports a Young Executive Committee, which just so happens to be chaired by Danni Li, a colleague of mine from Project by Project. Given Mr. Li's foodist tendencies, he's instituted the so-called YEX Test Kitchen, wherein the Club's Executive Chef Brian Ayers gets to create a special menu outside of the bounds of his normal offerings. Dining here is usually closed to non-members, so I figured that it was a good opportunity to see what the place was all about.


We were seated in the City Club's Tom Bradley Room, which provided for some great views of the Downtown LA skyline from the 54th floor of the Wells Fargo Center.


The Young Executive Test Kitchen menu comprised four courses at a very reasonable $35pp, with optional wine pairings. Click for a larger version.


Bread was your standard dinner roll--pretty prototypical, but it did its job and had me going back for seconds.


1: Hamachi, Yuzu, Serrano, Avocado
Ayers' first course of yellowtail was the standout dish of the night. The fish itself was exactly what you'd expect, with a slightly fatty, slightly briny character that was nicely paired against the lush, creamy goodness of that avocado purée. Yuzu and cilantro, meanwhile, added some well-placed pricks of acidity and herbaceousness, but even better was the sharp, lingering heat imparted by the slices of serrano. I quite appreciated the small mound of wakame seaweed on the side, too, which served to augment the ocean-y flavors of the hamachi. A table favorite.


2: Roasted Corn Soup, Shrimp Dumplings, Chorizo Oil, Cilantro
Our next course really showed off the essence of corn. It was a touch on the sugary side, but the use of chorizo oil did help balance that out. The soup worked well with the dumplings though, which I quite liked given their springy texture and tasty blend of savory and sweet flavors. The greenery, meanwhile, was key here too, adding a much-needed jolt of levity to the dish.


3: Slow Braised Berkshire Pork Belly, Vegetable Hash, Green Apple, Calvados Sauce
Pork belly was as tender and fatty as you'd expect, loaded with piggy flavors and a bevy of deep, dark nuances that conveyed an almost Asian-y tinge. At the same time, the mix of vegetables played foil to the meat, though I would've liked some more brightness and textural contrast on the plate to counteract the heft of the belly.


4: Saffron, Smoked Paprika and Confit Garlic Roasted Chicken Thigh, Cauliflower Puree, Olive Salsa and Goats Cheese
Our final savory brought out a confit'd thigh of chicken. The bird took on the flavors of the saffron-paprika-garlic combo quite nicely, showing off some delectable flavors, though it was a tad dry in certain places. The smoked goat cheese and olive added further complexity to the plate, and I appreciated the cauliflower as well, which served as a moderating base to the dish.


There was no dessert course per se, but rather, we were provided bowls of cookies, chocolates, and berries.

I was pretty satisfied with what the kitchen was able to turn out tonight. I mean, Wolvesmouth need not feel threatened here, but the plates were generally tasty, and certainly better than any event venue food I've had, not to mention the dreck I've been served at the Jonathan Club. I would say that the cocktail program here needs some work though, and I wasn't in love with the wine pairing either. Overall, I can't complain too much given the circumstances.