Mess Hall Restaurant
4500 Los Feliz Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90027
323.660.6377
www.messhallla.com or www.messhallkitchen.com
Mon 09/10/2012, 08:00p-11:40p





Without a doubt, one of the more highly-anticipated openings of the year so far has been MessHall, the brainchild of Rob Serritella and Bill Chait (contrary to earlier reports, the restaurateur Wunderkind is actually a minority partner here). It's a reworking of the Louise's Trattoria space in Los Feliz, and features the modernized "camp cafeteria cooking" of Chef Keith Silverton (no relation to Nancy) in a gastropub gastro tavern setting. The place soft-opened on Friday the 7th, while tonight was the restaurant's official debut.

About the Chef: Silverton is a native of Puyallup, Washington, and started his culinary career under chef and Le Cordon Bleu-instructor Musa Kalles. He opened Cutters at Pike Place in nearby Seattle before taking on a role at Restaurants Unlimited, where he spent five years overseeing the launch of 13 corporate-y type restaurants. Following, Silverton moved to the Bay Area and went to work at Mark Miller's Fourth Street Grill in Berkeley (a Chez Panisse offshoot). He then secured employment at Jeremiah Tower's seminal Stars in San Francisco, the landmark Bruno's nightclub in the Mission (under James Ormsby), and the Park Hyatt at the Embarcadero (now the Le Méridien). In 1998, Silverton relocated to Los Angeles to become Michael Cimarusti's Sous Chef at Water Grill, but his time there was short.

He quickly transitioned to an Executive Chef position at the French-Mediterranean Cyrano in West Hollywood, then went to work with Jon Fernow and Rainer Schwarz at Cienega. In June 2000, Silverton partnered with Jon Sidel to debut Dominick's in WeHo, and would stay there until 2003. In January the following year, he became the head chef at the Spider Club at Avalon Hollywood (formerly Hollywood Palace), and two years later, began working at Smitty's Grill in Pasadena. Then, in September 2007, Silverton debuted LIFT with Steve Adelman inside the Hudson Apartments, and also began heading things up at the co-located 86 Supperclub. Both ventures, however, were 86'd (ha!) the following year; LIFT became Hudson Bistro, and 86 was rechristened Hush Lounge. With those unpleasantries behind him, Silverton took the reins at West Hollywood's Nonna of Italy, a position he would retain before decamping to start work on MessHall.


MessHall is housed in a 14,000-square-foot structure that was once the Brown Derby. The space has been reimagined by Greg Bleier of Studio Unltd (he also did BierBeisl) and features a whopping 175 seats, as well as a corrugated metal bar and a patio area outside, replete with fire pits. The theme is sort of like industrial-chic meets Army dining hall, and naturally, as with any good restaurant opening these days, exposed brick, reclaimed wood, and communal tables are to be found in full effect.

A bit of history: The building was actually constructed in 1929 as Willard's Chicken Inn, but was purchased by famed director Cecil B. DeMille in 1941 and turned into the last outpost of the Brown Derby chain (a popular spot with the entertainment elite during Hollywood's Golden Age). In 1960, the restaurant became Michael's of Los Feliz, and remained as such until the end of 1992. The following year, the space was transformed into The Derby nightclub (it was where Swingers was filmed) and Louise's Trattoria. The Derby eventually turned into a Chase bank branch, and in June 2004, the site was purchased by a group led by Adler Reality Investments, which had plans to raze the structure and construct a condominium complex in its place. However, the building was deemed a Historic Cultural landmark in 2006, forcing the group to sell the property for $9.25 million earlier this year to CMC Asset Investments, which plans to operate things as-is.


MessHall's menu comprises an uncomplicated selection of gastropub-y fare supposedly inspired by dining hall cuisine, but interpreted through a distinctly modern American lens. To drink, cocktails were originally planned to be the work of Julian Cox and Josh Goldman, but the two have since been let go and superseded by Erik Lund, himself a JC protégé and former Rivera barman. He was actually signed on to MessHall even before Cox/Goldman were attached, and given the duo's departure, gone are their oft-touted "molecular" flourishes, replaced by Lund's older-school mixology. If cocktails aren't your thing, there's even a decent selection of wines (selected by Goldman), as well as an array of beers on draft and by the bottle, not to mention a godly list of bourbons. Click for larger versions.


Boss's Wife [$11.00] | Cachaca, clear creek berry liqueur, lime & champagne
The Hallucinogenic Whimsies of Banana Man [$11.00] | Campo de Encanto Pisco, Absinthe, banana, lime, orgeat, Peychaud's
Given all the hullabaloo surrounding MessHall's bar program, we decided to go with cocktails for the entire evening. First up was one that's apparently a favorite of Serritella's wife. It definitely goes over well with the ladies, but was hardly "girly," with a very noticeable berry sweetness from the liqueur sure, but also a great counterbalance from the booze and tart tints of lime--my dining companion even likened it to an adult jungle juice! Meanwhile, I also enjoyed the "Banana Man" as well, with its almost tropical sugariness and subtle banana character, beautifully moderated by the weight of the absinthe and pisco--delicious.


Steak Tartar Taco [$12.00] | crunchy parmesan, escabeche
Miniature "tacos" were a great way to start the meal. The meat itself was tender, yet with a satisfying chew, displaying a bovine goodness that paired perfectly with the tanginess imparted by the steak's escabeche marinade. I much appreciated the saltiness and crunch provided by the Parmesan shells, too.


Alaskan Rock Shrimp Cakes [$12.00] | orange, fennel, harissa
Here, I was afraid that the rock shrimp would be overwhelmed by the filler inherent in the cakes, but fortunately, the essence of the crustacean was proudly conveyed. Still snappy and springy, with a satisfyng bite, the shrimp deftly bestowed a marked brininess to the course that paired successfully with the slight spice found in the harissa.


Kale Caesar [$10.00] | avocado, goat gouda, croutons
Our server recommended the whimsically-named Kale Caesar, but unfortunately, we weren't in love with it. The dish was a bit one-dimensional, and really needed more "Caesar" character, though I did thoroughly enjoy the incorporation of avocado into the salad, which added some interesting focal points and textural play to the course.


Brown Derby [$9.00] | Buffalo Trace Bourbon, grapefruit, honey
Camp Crusta [$12.00] | CA Brandy, lemon, maraschino, Combier, sugar rim, citrus spiral
The aptly-monikered Brown Derby was rather to my liking, with a very apparent foundation of Buffalo Trace, one that was expertly moderated by the saccharine heft of the honey, as well as by the tartness of the grapefruit--very well balanced. I also liked the Camp Crusta (reminds me of Kamp Krusty), with its wonderful blend of citrus and sugary flavors, all over a moderating base of brandy.


Willard's "Far-Famed" Brick Chicken [$17.00] | gold whipped potatoes, collard greens
Next up was a course ostensibly inspired by the roast chicken served by the original occupant of the building. We had here a butterflied half chicken, deboned, and cooked under a brick (or some other weighty object). The resultant bird was quite nice: tender, still succulent for the most part, with a crisp, savory skin and good flavor. And the collards and mashers? Fitting accoutrements.


Seared Dayboat Scallops [$28.00] | smoked tomato, corn succotash, gnocchi, sherry champagne sauce
We see now the dish advertised by MessHall's new publicists as "the chef's favorite item." Coincidentally or not, it's also the most expensive item on the menu, and some may question the value of three scallops for $28. That being said, the scallops were pretty delicious: gorgeously caramelized, with a soft, supple bite and loads of briny-sweet savor. They were certainly tasty alone, but the light, bright flavors imparted by the various veggies (the corn in particular) formed a great complement to the seafood, and I even enjoyed the fluffy bits of gnocchi as well.


Amanda [$10.00] | Boyd & Blair potato vodka, serrano, cilantro, lime, pineapple
The Downtime (Between Euphoria or Bitter Disappointment) [$14.00] | Kilchoman Islay whisky, Cynar, Benedictine, Regan's orange bitters
In our final round of cocktails, we went with the Amanda, with its coy, but not cloying burst of pineapple on the palate, keenly offset by the herby spice of the cilantro-serrano combo--couldn't really taste much of the vodka at all. Last up was "The Downtime," which is actually a cocktail carried over from Rivera. The drink was listed under the "Aromatic / Boozy" section of the menu, and it certainly was, but not overwhelmingly so. I actually found it utterly balanced, with a delightful smoky character duly joined by the herbaceous bitterness of Cynar and Bénédictine, with the Regan's adding just the right about of sweet spice to the mix.


Mess Burger [$15.00] | slow onions, Vermont cheddar, b&b pickles, smokey sauce, brioche, fries
As we all know, any decent gastro-tavern must feature a burger on the menu, and so here we are. MessHall's effort was good, with a well-cooked medium-rare patty showing off a prototypical beefiness that melded well with its topping of cheddar. I even enjoyed the subtly-sweet onions, as well as the integrating aioli, but really wanted to get more from those B&B pickles. The paired French fries, meanwhile, were spot on and quite tasty, even better with a dab of ketchup.


Hog Chop [$26.00] | center cut pork chop, white cheddar grits, mustard greens, tabasco butter
For our final savory course, we went with the hog loin chop, again at our server's recommendation. Taste-wise, things were on point, as I quite reveled in the dish's unabashed pork-iness, and appreciated the tender, toothsome consistency of the meat. Grits and greens fit the mold admirably as well, forming an apt counterpoint to the pig. I was, however, concerned with the size of the chop, which seemed a touch dainty to me. I would've liked something more substantial, such as the excellent, several-inch-thick Maple Glazed Pork Chop I had recently at Playground.


Some More [$8.00] | chocolate cake bread pudding, marshmallow ice cream & graham tuile
Dessert riffed on a classic campfire treat: the lovable s'more. I'm not so sure if quite evoked the essence of the traditional preparation, but it was damn tasty nonetheless. I'm generally pretty blasé about chocolate cake, but this one I found particularly, and inexplicably appealing, blending flawlessly with the ice cream, which I also adored. The graham cracker chip, meanwhile, added a nice touch of crunchiness to the dessert that I much appreciated. Yum.

I was generally pleased with our experience at MessHall. The food was straightforward conceptually, and delivered well for the most part. I had a couple quibbles, but nothing too damning, nothing that can't be tweaked. Meanwhile, cocktails were commendable across the board, so I definitely won't bemoan the loss of Cox and Goldman, as Erik Lund appears to be running the show just fine. Service was pretty on point given the circumstances, with my only concern being that pacing was somewhat off at times. In the end, MessHall looks like a nice spot, and I can only imagine how much of an improvement it is over the Louise's that used to occupy the building; in fact, I really see the restaurant growing into a sort of neighborhood staple--a consummate fit for the area.

One of the questions that I hear most often is "What's the best _blank_ that you've ever had?" As such, inspired by Food Network's The Best Thing I Ever Ate, I came up with the following list, spanning a myriad of different food categories. I do intend on keeping things current, and plan on adding and updating entries as we go along. Do let me know if there's anything I missed.

	Abalone	Awabi (nigirizushi) at Go's Mart
	Agnolotti	Duck confit agnolotti, shaved foie gras, duck consomme at Saddle Peak Lodge
	Aloo Tikki	Aloo tikki cholle at Vik's Chaat Corner
	Ankimo	Ankimo at Go's Mart
	Artichoke	Crispy baby artichokes, remoulade, pepper coulis at Raphael
	Banana Cream Pie	Black bottom banana cream pie at Gjelina
	Bavarois	Coconut bavarois, coffee, thai basil, peanut croquant, chicory at Test Kitchen (Jordan Kahn)
	Beef Heart	Anticucho de corazon, rocoto Sauce at Test Kitchen (Ricardo Zarate)
	Beef Short Rib	Short rib, prime, braised 72h, raisin-peppercorn sauce at Citronelle
	Beef Tartar	Tartare of filet mignon and French fries at Central Michel Richard
	Beet	Beet cake at Blue Vervain
	Bibimbap	Dolsot bibimbap at Young Dong Tofu
	Black Beans	Black bean crème, frijoles moros soup, compressed apple, calvados, tropical mint at Playa
	Black Cod	Misoyaki black cod, furikake rice cake, pickled garden vegetables, encapsulated foie gras miso soup at Molecular Menu at AnQi
	Blood Sausage	Sangrecita, morcilla crostini, fried egg, jalapeno salsa at Mo-Chica
	Bo La Lot	Grilled beef wrapped in sesame leaves at Starry Kitchen Nights at Tiara Cafe
	Bone Marrow	Grilled bone marrow at The Spice Table
	Bonito	Bonito, lightly smoked with wild fennel, black tea at Manresa
	Brain	Calf's brain and scrambled egg with shaved white truffles at Per Se
	Branzino	Loup de mer, sungold tomatoes, mole verde at Test Kitchen (Walter Manzke)
	Brisket	Beef brisket alla Genovese, onions, ozette potatoes, parsley at Sotto
	Butter	Foie gras butter at Hatchi at Breadbar (Walter Manzke)
	Butterscotch	Macallan butterscotch, winter squash cake, toasted milk ice cream, malt at XIV
	Burger, Slider	Le burger, au foie gras et aux poivrons verjutés (beef and foie gras burger with caramelized bell peppers) at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
	Caesar Salad	Caesarin, Peruvian ceasar salad, grilled baby romaine, parmesan, huacatay anchovie dressing at Mo-Chica
	Camembert	Camembert | coing, camembert croquette, persimmon, quince purée, cherry vinegar, mâche at The Royce
	Cannoli	Cannoli at Test Kitchen (Zach Pollack, Steve Samson)
	Carbonara	Linguine alla carbonara, pancetta, eggs, black pepper and Grana Padano at Osteria Mamma
	Carrot Cake	Carrot cake, carrot sorbet, yuzu curd, cream cheese snow at The Dining Room
	Cassoulet	Rabbit cassoulet at Relate at Bistro St. Germain's
	Cauliflower	Fried cauliflower, fish sauce at The Spice Table
	Causa	Causa rellena, stuffed crispy causa, morcilla, rocoto aioli at Test Kitchen (Ricardo Zarate)
	Century Egg	Thousand-year-old quail egg, potage, ginger at Benu
	Ceviche	Ceviche crocante, halibut, leche de tigre, crispy calamari at Picca
	Chawanmushi	Chawanmushi at Urasawa
	Chicken Heart	Tokujo hatsu / special heart at Kokekokko
	Chicken Liver	Spicy chicken liver on toast with chicken cracklin' at Black Hogg
	Chicken, Roasted	Whole roasted black chicken, with piquillo pepper purée, fried chicken, stuffing at Sona
	Chicken Sandwich	Fried chicken sandwich, spicy B&B pickle slaw, rooster aioli at Son of a Gun
	Chicken and Waffles	Wood & Vine fried chicken & waffles, house-made waffle, maple roasted squash at Wood & Vine
	Chickpeas	Slow cooked chickpeas a la Catalan, sauce romesco, coriander at Ubuntu
	Chile Relleno	Chile relleno, farci avec une duxelle et servi avec une sauce de chèvre et d'ail at Rivera
	Chili Fries	Chili-cheese fries with onions at Volcano Burgers
	Churros	Chu-don't-know-mang, pound cake cinnamon churros, with malted chocolate milk and vanilla ice cream at A-Frame
	Clam	Humitas, Baja surf clam, red bell pepper, queso ranchero, fresno chiles, chives, lime pesto at Playa
	Clam Chowder	Clam chowder, with green curry, lemongrass, pancetta, coconut milk, and toasted sourdough at A-Frame
	Congee	Westlake rice porridge, hangar steak, rock shrimp, soy-cured Egg, cilantro at Mission Chinese Food
	Consommé	Oxtail consommé, mushroom royal, black truffles at Test Kitchen (Alain Giraud)
	Coq au Vin	Coq au vin, braised organic chicken, market vegetables, thyme roasted potatoes, Burgundy jus at La Poubelle Bistro
	Corn	Chipotle corn, lime butter, queso Oaxaca at Playground
	Corn Dog	Corn pups, two short dogs, Anson Mills corn batter, mustard at Short Order
	Corned Beef	Corned beef, appenzeller churro, red onion, pastrami syrup at ink.
	Cotton Candy	Lychee cotton candy at The Slanted Door
	Crab	Kani miso korayaki at Urasawa
	Crab Cakes	Jumbo lump crab cakes, with Pommery mustard sauce and coleslaw at Gulfstream
	Crème Brûlée	Crème brulee, strawberry at Test Kitchen (Walter Manzke)
	Crudites	Crudite, urchin bottarga and seaweed at Alma Pop-Up
	Curry, Japanese	Pork cutlet curry, crispy fried kurobuta pork loin at Fat Spoon
	Deviled Eggs	3 devil eggs, porky, chive, truffle at Test Kitchen (Shelley Cooper)
	Dorade	Dorade royal "au plat", fennel, zucchini, eggplant, "Riviera jus" at Patina
	Dosa	Masala dosa at Annapurna Cuisine
	Doughnut	Buttermilk toasted coconut doughnut, mascarpone ice cream at Grace
	Dover Sole	Dover sole | endive, dover sole à la poêle, crunchy endive bergamot lemon, cauliflower mushroom charred truffled leeks at The Royce
	Duck Confit	Arroz con pato, duck and rice, traditional Peruvian dish from north of Lima at Test Kitchen (Ricardo Zarate)
	Dumplings, Non-Traditional	Chinese spring chive crystal dumplings, Alaskan king crab, shrimp, Kurobuta pork at WP24
	Eggplant	Roasted eggplant, bulgur, charred cucumber and tahini at Alma Pop-Up
	Engawa	Halibut fin sashimi at sugarFISH
	Fish and Chips	Fish & Chips at The Parish
	Flatbread Sandwich	The bäco at Lazy Ox Canteen
	Fluke	Fluke, spinach, vinaigrette, shallot, chive at Wolvesmouth Underground Dinner
	Foie Gras, Cold	Moulard duck "foie gras terrine", Tokyo turnips, pickled ramps, black truffles, garden mâche and toasted brioche at The French Laundry
	Foie Gras, Hot	Foie-gras "en papillotte" and radish bouillon (« radis-foie ») at Guy Savoy
	Fried Chicken	Marinated fried chicken in duck fat brown butter potato salad at LudoBites 2.0 at Breadbar
	Fried Green Tomato	Fried green tomato, tabasco aioli at Wolvesmouth Underground Dinner
	Fried Oyster	Gougere, slider fried oysters, tartar sauce, bacon & arugula at Little Bear
	Fried Rice	Arroz chaufa de mariscos, mixed seafood, peruvian fried rice, pickled radish at Picca
	Frog	La grenouille, la cuisse en fritot à la purée aillée eu au coulis de persil (crispy frog leg, garlic and parsley coulis) at Joël Robuchon
	Gargouillou	Into the vegetable garden...their natural juices at Manresa
	Gazpacho	Watermelon gazpacho, Japanese octopus, Pedro Ximenez at Patina
	Goat	Slow roasted G.O.A.T. (Greatest Of All Time), pickled mango at Sunny Spot
	Grouper	Pan roasted black grouper, artichoke, sunchoke, Maine pink shrimp, black lentil puree, smoked lobster vinaigrette at Joe's Restaurant
	Guacamole	Guacamole (prepared tableside) at Oyamel
	Haam Sui Gaau	Glutinous dumpling with diced pork at Koi Palace
	Hamachi	Hamachi, Vietnamese style at LudoBites 6.0 at Max
	Har Gow	Steamed shrimp dumpling topped with XO sauce at Koi Palace
	Hazelnut	Hazelnut milk, frosted celeriac, Tennessee whiskey, wood ice cream at XIV
	Heirloom Tomato Salad	Heirloom tomato salad, Santa Barbara sea urchin, soy caramel at Patina
	Herring	Salade d'hargens, smoked herring, fingerling potato salad at Church & State
	Honeydew	Dessert (honeydew from Shizuoka) at Imahan
	Horchata	Agua de horchata at La Casita Mexicana
	Hummus	Hummus with tahini at Cleo
	John Dory	John Dory fillet, poached in Malabar black pepper-citrus butter, cannelloni beans, marin velouté, crunchy sauce at Twist by Pierre Gagnaire
	Kabocha Squash	Le Kabocha, en symphonie soyeuse au foie gras et gingembre (delicate kabocha pumpkin veloute on foie gras custard with ginger) at Joël Robuchon
	Kale	Sautéed kale, broccoli leaf, garlic & chili at The Gorbals
	Kamatoro	Kama toro / tuna collar at Urasawa
	Karaage	Awabi "karaage" at Urasawa
	Kebab	Koobideh (luleh kabob) at Raffi's Place
	King Crab	King crab legs, Tabasco butter at Son of a Gun
	Kohada	Kohada at Nozomi
	Lamb	Lamb, rack, raw-cooked vegetables, jalapeno-cumin sauce at Citronelle
	Langoustine	La langoustine, truffée et cuite en ravioli avec un émincé de chou étuvé (truffled langoustine ravioli with stewed cabbage) at Joël Robuchon
	Lobster Roll	Lobster roll, celery, lemon aioli at Son of a Gun
	Lobster, Cold	Lobster | pomegranate, slow poached lobster, coleman's farm butter lettuce, sweet onion, pomegranate hot and snow at The Royce
	Lomo Saltado	Lomo saltado at Mario's Peruvian Seafood
	Mango	Mango bavarois, sugar plums, star anise, pistachio at Patina
	Matzoh	Bacon-wrapped matzoh balls, horseradish mayonnaise at The Gorbals
	Minestrone	Wild fennel minestra, mustard greens, farro, Calabrian chilies, egg at Sotto
	Mole	Tres moles con puerco at La Casita Mexicana
	Morel	Trapped funghi, morels, sesame praline, spring alliums, mushroom sabayon, cardamom, homemade coffee oil, ginger at CR8 Purotekuta
	Mousseline	Poached egg, potato mousseline, Santa Barbara prawn, chorizo condiment at LudoBites 5.0 at Gram & Papas
	Mushroom	Dobin mushi (matsutake) at Urasawa
	Olives	Olives all'Ascolana at Scarpetta
	Onion Rings	"Beer batter" onion rings at Burger Parlor
	Ono	Ono ceviche, coconut milk, tomato, cilantro at Test Kitchen (Elderoy Arendse, Ori Menashe)
	Oyster, Cooked	Butter poached Kushi oyster, tapioca cream with Spanish caviar and fresh yuzu at Alex
	Pad Thai	Pad Thai, market version w/ sweet radish, peanuts, tofu & dried shrimp at Night + Market
	Panna Cotta, Savory	Soymilk panna cotta, Santa Barbara sea urchin, geoduck clam and fresh wasabi at Ibaraki Benefit Dinner at Breadbar
	Papaya	Papaya at Urasawa
	Papaya Salad	Green papaya, crispy taro, rau ram, fried shallots, peanuts at Test Kitchen (Jordan Kahn)
	Pastrami	Saul's pastrami at The Dining Room
	Peas	Peas all around (tout petits pois) at Guy Savoy
	Peasprouts	Sauteed peasprout at Newport Seafood
	Pig Ear	Pig ear, chili, lime, fried egg at Animal
	Pig Tail	Pig's tail, lettuce, herbs at The Spice Table
	Pig Trotter	Pied de cochon, spicy aioli at Test Kitchen (Neal Fraser)
	Pizza	Roma tomatoes, onions, feta, mozzarella cheeses, garlic olive oil, lemon zest & juice and cilantro at Cheese Board Pizza Collective
	Pommes Purée	Black truffle potato purée (purée de pommes de terre à la truffe noire) at Guy Savoy
	Pork Belly	Braised kurobuta pork belly with braised red cabbage & green curry at Bar Charlie
	Pork Jowl	Corned pork jowl salad, black trumpet vinaigrette, chicory and lettuce stems and leaves at Commis
	Pork Rillettes	Rillettes, pork, pickles, mustard, toast at The Tasting Kitchen
	Pork Shoulder	Maya puerco pibil sous vide, banana leaf braised pork shoulder, Peruvian potatoes at Rivera
	Pork Tenderloin	Grilled pork tenderloin, squash, chestnuts, bacon, violet mustard at Test Kitchen (Neal Fraser)
	Pot de Crème	Butterscotch pot de crème, salted caramel ice-cream at Wood & Vine
	Pot Pie	Chilean pot pie at Pan Am Room
	Pot Roast	Jar's signature pot roast, carrots, caramelized onions at Jar
	Potato Chips	Papas salsa verde, Kennebec potatoes, avocado, chiles serranos, micro cilantro at Playa
	Pretzel	Spretzel, mustard dipping sauce at Cooks County
	Quesadilla	Foie gras quesadilla, crispy cabbage, juniper berry oil at LudoBites America at Casa Pulido
	Rabbit	Rabbit, bacon n onion muffin, Swiss fondue, green apple, mustard greens at Wolvesmouth Underground Dinner
	Ragù	Hand cut maltagliati, pork ragù, scallion, Gruyère at Fraiche
	Ramen	Taiwan ramen noodle, Nagoya style spicy noodle soup served with beef and pork, Asian chives, and dried red chili at Sashi
	Rice Porridge	Kinoko zosui porridge of rice and egg at Aburiya Toranoko
	Risotto	Mushroom risotto, topped with shaved summer truffles at Patina
	Roe	eggs (flatbread) at Saison
	Sabayon	Lime sabayon, cucumber ice cream, cashew macaroons, white chocolate, jasmine at Red Medicine
	Salade Lyonnaise	Frisee aux lardons et oeuf poche, frisee salad with lardons, poached egg, bacon vinaigrette & toasted brioche at Bouchon
	Salmon Tartar	Le Caviar, tartare de saumon aux jeunes pousses de shiso (salmon tartar with shiso sprouts) at Joël Robuchon
	Salpicon	Salpicon, piquillo pepper & mandarin orange at Lazy Ox Canteen
	Salsify	Tree in the forest: confit of salsify, crispy maitake mushrooms with garlic & herbs at Bistronomics Lucky 13 at Breadbar
	Salt Cod	Bunelos de bacalao, fried salt cod and potato at Test Kitchen (Walter Manzke, Perfecto Rocher)
	Sangria	Basque sangria, Floc de Gascogne, flavors of sangria, freeze-dried fruit at Test Kitchen (Michael Voltaggio)
	Sausage, Asian	Sai krok Isaan / sour Isaan sausage, grilled fermented pork sausage, w/ bird eye chile, cabbage at Night + Market
	Scallop, Raw	Hokkaido scallop, nasturtium blossoms, crispy rice cracker at Providence
	Schnitzel	Sweetbread schnitzel with potato salad at Stefan's at L.A. Farm
	Scrambled Eggs	Black truffle (French) scrambled eggs at LudoBites 8.0 at Lemon Moon
	Sea Bream	Sea bream, almond and orange, fennel jam at Manresa
	Sesame	Goma aisu kurimu at Urasawa
	Shabu-Shabu	Premium wagyu beef (from Japan, grade A5) at Kagaya
	Shawarma	Duck "shawarma", Israeli couscous and organic corn salad at Taste of Beverly Hills (Momed)
	Shima Aji	Shima aji at Urasawa
	Shrimp Cocktail	Jumbo shrimp cocktail at Hank's Oyster Bar
	Shrimp, Cooked	North Carolina coastal shrimp and Anson Mills grits at Ratcliffe on The Green
	Shrimp Toast	Shrimp toast sandwich, herbs, Sriracha mayo at Son of a Gun
	Snail	Escargot, country sausage, green tomato, black eyed pea at The Vagrancy Project
	Soba	Buckwheat soba at Okaryo
	Soft Shell Crab	Soft shell crab, scrambled corn, Old Bay, vanilla-crab jus at The Dining Room
	Somen	Somen noodle with bottarga at Matsuhisa
	Sope	Isla de Cedros abalone chorizo sope at Test Kitchen (Javier Plascencia)
	Spaghetti	Spaghetti, tomato & basil at Scarpetta
	Spanakopita	Spanakopita at Cleo
	Spring Roll	Nem nuong cuon at Brodard
	Squash Blossom	Alchemic chemistry, 79 at CR8 The Art Of
	Squid	Baby Monterey squid, Chiang Mai pork sausage, candlenut, mint, rau ram at Lukshon
	Steak	True Japanese 100% Wagyu Beef From Saga Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan, Filet Mignon 6 Oz at CUT
	Sweet Potato	Sweet potato, romaine ribs, turmeric, beer, baby shrimp at Red Medicine
	Sunchoke	Sunchoke soup, black truffle, olive oil at The Royce
	Taco, Non-Traditional	Pork belly tacos, Fuji apple slaw, jalapeño relish at Black Hogg
	Tamago	Tamago at Natori
	Tamale, Non-Traditional	Tamalli Chateaubriand, wild-mushroom duxelles dumpling, filet mignon, chipotle béarnaise at Playa
	Taro	Acra, graded taro roots blended with herring, green onion, bell pepper, onion, garlic, black pepper and parsley at Test Kitchen (TiGeorges Laguerre)
	Tempura	Ebi tempura at Urasawa
	Tiradito	Tiradito de jurel, Japanese aji carpaccio, garlic, ginger lemon sauce at Test Kitchen (Ricardo Zarate)
	Tiramisu	Tiramisu at Osteria Mamma
	Tofu	Black bean tofu with beets & Tokyo scallions at Bar Charlie
	Tomato	Momotaro tomatoes at Totoraku
	Toro	Otoro (nigirizushi) at Kyubey
	Torta, Non-Traditional	Chorizo piquillo goat cheese torta at Wolvesmouth Underground Dinner
	Tortilla	Tortillas florales, housemade nixtimal tortillas, "Indian butter" at Rivera
	Tres Leches	Tres leches cake at Gulfstream
	Trifle	Yuzu banana trifle, mountain berries at Lazy Ox Canteen
	Tripe	Omasum tripe, shrimp, yellow chive, lovage at Benu
	Truffle	Black truffle, explosion, romaine, parmesan at Alinea
	Tuna, Cooked	Maguro "spare ribs" at Kyubey
	Tuna Tartar	Cru (bluefin tuna tartar) at Saison
	Turbot	"EcoPez" turbot, fungi, seagrass, ash oil at Test Kitchen (Michael Voltaggio)
	Turkey Burger	O.C., turkey burger, herb sauce, sprouts, marinated carrots, avocado, provolone at Burger Parlor
	Unagi	Unagi, summer truffle, crushed potato, quail egg at Providence
	Uni, Sushi	Uni / sea urchin roe at Urasawa
	Veal	Marcho Farm nature-fed veal, "lasagne de langue de veau," toybox tomatoes, globe artichoke, romaine lettuce and Castelmagne "mousseline" at The French Laundry
	Venison	Filet de chevreuil, loin of venison, roasted market vegetables and fall fruits at Bocuse d'Or USA Benefit Dinner
	Vitello Tonnato	Vitello tonnato, veal eye of round sousvide for 12h@51°c, salsa tonnata and celery at Il Grano
	Waffle	Crisp sourdough waffle, black cherry and mascarpone, balsamic caramel at Muse
	White Chocolate	White chocolate cube, orange blossom cream, coriander, pistachio, sake at XIV
	Wontons	Pork chili oil wonton+Szechuan-style shredded potatoes at Starry Kitchen Nights at Tiara Cafe
	Xiaolongbao	Lobster coral xiao long bao at Benu
	Yakiniku	Outside rib eye at Totoraku

Manresa Restaurant
320 Village Ln, Los Gatos, CA 95030
408.354.4330
www.manresarestaurant.com
Fri 08/03/2012, 08:30p-12:55a





It had been nearly four years since I'd dined at Manresa, David Kinch's seminal eatery tucked away in the foothills of the Santa Cruz mountains. As such, I figured that I was long overdue for a revisit, to see how the Chef's signature "highly personal haute cuisine" had changed over the years, especially with the evolution of the restaurant's relationship with Cynthia Sandberg's eminently biodynamic Love Apple Farms. It was a fitting ending to my recent Bay Area trip.

About the Chef: Kinch was born in Philadelphia, but raised in the Big Easy, New Orleans, a setting with a rich culinary backdrop that certainly made a lasting impression on the young chef. He began his professional restaurant career in 1977 at the age of 16, working under the legendary Paul Prudhomme at the even more legendary Commander's Palace. From there, Kinch enrolled at Johnson & Wales University, graduating with honors in 1981. The following year, he secured a position in New York at Maurice at the Hotel Parker Meridien, cooking under none other than Christian Delouvrier, and then took over the kitchens at La Petite Ferme, a small French country restaurant in the City. In 1984, Kinch left for Europe, working a stint at Hotel del la Poste in Beaune, France under Marc Chevillot for a year. He later returned to NYC, and started cooking at the whimsically-named, yet cutting-edge Quilted Giraffe. After a few years there, he moved to Japan, where he consulted on the opening of an American restaurant at the Hotel Clio Court in Fukuoka.

Kinch came back Stateside in 1989, and took up residence as the Executive Chef at Silks at the Mandarin Oriental in San Francisco. His tenure there was brief, however, and by 1990, he was already back in Europe, cooking his way through a number of notable places: Schweizer Stuben in Wertheim, Germany; Marc Meneau's L'Espérance in Saint-Père sous Vézelay, France; and Pedro Subijana's Akelarre in San Sebastian, Spain. The Chef once again returned to Northern California, taking the reins at Ernie's in San Francisco in 1993. Two years later, he would finally debut his own restaurant, opening Sent Sovi in Saratoga with partner/GM Aimee Hebert. The place was well-received--Kinch even earned the Rising Star Chef award from the Chronicle in 1996--but the duo sold it in 2001.

The Chef premiered the ground-breaking Manresa, set in a former residence in Los Gatos, in the summer of 2002 to considerable critical acclaim. In 2005, Manresa made an appearance on Restaurant magazine's list of the World's 50 Best Restaurants (at #38), and later that year, Michael Bauer gave the place a glowing four-star review. The next year, Kinch formed an exclusive partnership with the nearby Love Apple Farms, further cementing the Chef's commitment to local, sustainable produce, and in 2007, Manresa received two Michelin stars, a rating that it has kept since. In late 2008, the Chef filmed an episode of Iron Chef America, in which he handily defeated Bobby Flay in Battle Cabbage. 2009 saw Kinch consult on the opening of Bonny Doon Vineyard's Cellar Door Café, which ended up being helmed by former Manresa Sous Charlie Parker (who's now in charge at Freddy Smalls here in LA). James Beard came knocking in 2010, giving the nod to Kinch in the form of the "Best Chef: Pacific" award, while the French Culinary Institute's Bay Area campus made him a dean in May 2011. Soon thereafter, he was deemed GQ's "Chef of the Year," and secured another four-star rating from Michael Bauer in December last year.

For 2012, Manresa has popped up once again on the 50 Best Restaurants list, this time re-entering at #48. And in May, Kinch named a new Chef de Cuisine: the 26-year-old Jessica Largey, who started at the restaurant in 2009 as a line cook. Interestingly, the two were actually introduced back in 2008, during a 5x5 Chefs Collaborative Dinner at Providence. Largey was working at Providence at the time, and helped Kinch (the evening's guest chef) prepare his vadouvan mussels dish. They kept in touch after the encounter, with Largey actually staging at Manresa that fall. She returned to LA to cook under Paul Shoemaker at Bastide, but its closure forced her back into Kinch's arms the next year.

One new promotion deserves another, though, and Manresa's got a new Pastry Chef as well. She's Stephanie Prida (also 26-year-old coincidentally), and hails from Chicago, where she worked at L20, Ria, and Blackbird. Prida replaces Belinda Leong, who herself was hired on to supplant Deanie Hickox (former Ubuntu Pastry Chef and ex-wife of Jeremy Fox, who decamped for Coi) back in September 2010.



Keeping with the theme of new staff, the dining room is now overseen by General Manager Bobi Adle (Frances, Bistro 45, Murano, Water Grill, Merchants Wine Bar), who started at Manresa in January. Actually, the space itself is new, having undergone a complete renovation in May last year. It's now much more contemporary, less country, and additions include a new smaller, secondary dining room, as well as a bar/lounge area. Responsible for the revamp were Sterry Architecture and Sunnyhills Studio, as well as the Chef himself.


Santa Cruz 75 [$20.00] | Osocalis Brandy / Lemon / Love Apple Farm Honey / Diebolt-Vallois Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne
Shizuka [$16.00] | Hendrick's Gin / Tonic / Green Chartreuse V.E.P. / Love Apple Cucumber / Love Apple Shiso / Aloe
Smoke Signals [$14.00] | Del Maguey Mezcal Vida / Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur / Tamarind Infusion / Lime
Since we arrived early, we ordered up a trio of cocktails from the newly installed bar. First up was the Santa Cruz 75, ostensibly a take on the classic French 75, typically made with gin, Champagne, and lemon. Manresa's version substituted brandy for gin, and added some honey for good measure, resulting in a refreshing, effervescent drink, with a lovely sweetness initially leading to a slightly astringent character on the close. My favorite of the troika was the Shizuka (Japanese for "quiet" or "calm"), which showed off a fantastic mix of candied and herbaceous flavors, with a touch of tea-like essence on the finish--very complex, very well-integrated. Finally, there was the Smoke Signals, with its huge dose of smoky mezcal melding nicely with the sweet spice of tamarind, all moderated by the fruity taste of Maraschino.


As far as Manresa's menu goes, guests are given the choice between a four-course prix fixe for $125 and a considerably longer "Seasonal and Spontaneous" tasting menu, priced at $175. Beverage pairings for the degustation from Wine Director Jeff Bareilles ring in at $98 for the standard set, or $175 for premium wines; we sampled both options. Click for larger versions.


Amuse Bouche 1: Petit fours "red pepper-black olive"
N.V. Roederer Estate Brut Rosé Anderson Valley
N.V. Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut à Cramant
As is the norm at Manresa, the meal kicked off with a duet of mini-madeleine and pâte de fruit. The madeleine this evening was of the black olive persuasion, and was very subtle, with a satisfying sugariness laced with just a touch of olive-y savor, increasing in intensity toward the finish. The bell pepper fruit jelly was similar in effect, with a very focused, brilliantly pepper-y zing tempered by a well-placed sweetness.


Amuse Bouche 2: Garden beignets and crispy leaves
N.V. Roederer Estate Brut Rosé Anderson Valley
N.V. Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut à Cramant
Beignets were excellent, wonderfully fluffy on the inside, and with a mouth-watering, yet somewhat bitter character that conveyed a somewhat Asian-y slant to it.


Amuse Bouche 3: Local milk panna cotta with abalone
N.V. Roederer Estate Brut Rosé Anderson Valley
N.V. Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut à Cramant
Next up was perhaps the most involved "amuse bouche" that I'd ever encountered. We had here a panna cotta of raw milk, topped with an abalone gelée impregnated with slices of abalone and French breakfast radish. It was mahvelous, with a gorgeous interplay between the mild, tangy cream and the umami-laden, dashi-esque jelly. Abalone, meanwhile, was spot on: perfectly supple, yet firm in consistency, with a subtle, sweet brine that I found completely endearing.


Amuse Bouche 4: Sweet corn croquettes
N.V. Roederer Estate Brut Rosé Anderson Valley
N.V. Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut à Cramant
The meal's only real misstep was the sweet corn cromesquis, which was completely missing its filling, meaning that it was just an empty shell of corn.


Amuse Bouche 5: Arpege farm egg
To make up for the croquette-related slip-up, the kitchen sent out their rendition of Alain Passard's famed Arpège egg, ostensibly as a "bonus" course. The version here incorporated sherry vinegar and maple, and was just as delightful as I remember, with the lush, soft yolk conveying a wonderful egginess that was subsequently balanced by the contrasting sweet and sour overtones in the dish.


Four varieties of bread were on offer: multi-seed, levain sourdough, baguette, and black olive-rosemary, all served with a homemade butter.


1: Marinated oyster, seaweed and lemon ice
2009 FitaPreta Branco Portugal
2010 Tyrrell's Semillon Hunter Valley Australia
Our first course proper brought out smoked oyster, along with a Meyer lemon granita, seaweed, and granola. The sheer brine and smoke of the bivalve was very apparent from the get-go, intermingled with the savory smack of the granola as well as the bracing, tempering cold of the granité. The finish, meanwhile, displayed a certain nuttiness that I found reminiscent of Corn Nuts interestingly enough.


2: Bonito, lightly smoked with wild fennel, black tea
2010 Botani Moscatel Seco Málaga Spain
2008 Lackner-Tinnacher Gelber Grauburgunder Steinbach Austria
Kinch's skipjack tuna was superb, served seared here with smoked eggplant and black tea. In fact, the balance between the fish and the smoke in the dish was perfect, and I loved the interaction between the tangy leek and lingering tea notes present. We even soaked up the remaining liquid with our bread. Overall, a wonderful way to brighten up the often times trite dish of "seared tuna."


3: Into the vegetable garden
2010 Domaine du Salvard Sauvignon Blanc Cheverny
2009 Ferrando Erbaluce di Caluso La Torrazza Piedmont
Here we see one of Kinch's signature dishes, his homage to Le Gargouillou of Michel Bras (variations of which have become a staple on many a haute menu!). It is a composed "salad" of sorts, a mishmash of various leaves, buds, roots, and flowers, each lovingly prepared and presented on a base of dehydrated chicory root "dirt," then topped with a vegetable juice foam. The end result was a fascinating, contemplative examination in multifaceted tastes and textures--a real celebration of the garden that should be experienced.


4: Saffron and shellfish broth with yarrow, sorrels...
2011 Château La Canorgue Rosé Luberon France
2011 Côtes de Provence Domaine Ott Château de Selle Rosé
This Mediterranean-inspired fish soup was delightful: hearty and heartwarming, with an intensely aromatic, ocean-y relish from the enveloping bisque-esque broth. The lobster was on point, too, snappy and supple, with a lip-smacking savor that paired swimmingly with the tangy combination of sorrel and yarrow. Yum.


5: A summer tidal pool
2009 COS Rami 50% insolia and 50% grecanico Sicily Italy
2004 Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile Riesling Alsace
Another one of Kinch's most well-known dishes, his seasonal "tidal pool," was even more satisfying. We had here, set in the headiest of broths (an explosion of earthy, umami goodness featuring enokitake mushrooms, scallion, and seaweed), a threesome of sea urchin, abalone, and mussel. I loved how each and every item here was distinct and true-to-form, yet contributing to an overall sense of time and place, capturing the very essence of the ocean. Simply wonderful; a must try.


6: Sea bream, almond and orange, fennel jam
2010 Domaine Maestracci E Prove Blanc Vermentino Corsica
2009 Mâcon Villages Le Héritiers du Comte Lafon Burgundy
Japanese sea bream was absolutely flawless, and came accompanied by garlic purée, candied orange zest, and gomashio. The fish itself showed off a fantastic brine, and I adored its perfectly crisp, savory skin. The orange zest, meanwhile, lent an overarching citrus-y tinge to the dish that I enjoyed, while the countervailing crunch and bitterness of the radish was much appreciated as well.


7: Roasted sweet breads, apricot soubise
2010 La Fenêtre À Côté Anderson Creek Vineyard North Coast
2009 Olivier Jouan Pinot Noir Hautes-Côtes du Nuits Burgundy
It had been a while since I'd had a good sweetbread, so I was quite looking forward to this course. It did not disappoint, as the veal was right on: crisp on the outside, yet with a creamy, lush interior and a wonderfully satisfying savory flair. At the same time, the apricot-onion soubise added a touch of piquancy to things, and I loved the levity imparted by the pickled cabbage here.


8: Lamb and cucumber, blueberries with juniper
2007 Zuazo Gaston Tempranillo Crianza Rioja
2008 Capataz Malbec Mendoza Argentina
In our final savory course, the Chef aimed to recall the essence of gin by pairing lamb with juniper, cucumber, and blueberry. I'm not so sure if that aspect was successful, but it was a tasty course nonetheless. The meat itself was expertly prepared, with a tender bite and savory, ovine character that went surprisingly well with the zesty notes of juniper. Cucumber, meanwhile, adding a tempering element to the course, as well as a much-needed crunchiness.


Intermezzo: Garden tisane
To cleanse our palates, we enjoyed an herbal tea containing mint, lemon balm, lemon verbena, hyssop, and chamomile.


9: Berries, anise hyssop, kefir and verjus sorbet
As a pre-dessert, we had sorbet of verjuice, paired with Love Apple Farm berries, anise hyssop, and kefir (not to be confused with kaffir). The bright, acidic flavors of the sorbet were deftly moderated by the tangy, lactic, yoghurt, while the mix of fruit and hyssop provided an undercurrent of sweetness and herbaceousness that permeated the dish nicely.


10: Milk and chocolate
N.V. Fattoria Moretto Lambrusco Emilia Romagna Italy
2006 Château Les Justices Sauternes
Our dessert proper showcased variations of milk and chocolate, and featured a buttermilk sorbet, milk meringues, a dulce de leche custard, cocoa nib pearls, chocolate mousse, and dehydrated chocolate mousse. It really was quite lovely, highlighting the various facets and faces of both milk and chocolate, and showing how the two elements interact so naturally despite some unconventional forms. Great mintiness here, too.


Next up were some pretty amazing apricot-chamomile macarons--fruity, but with a subtle floral undertone.


Mignardises: Petit fours "strawberry-chocolate"
We closed as we opened with a pairing of madeleines and pâtes de fruits, this time only with chocolate and strawberry flavors on the fore.

Manresa delivered with flying colors, making our dinner here one of my best of the year no doubt. The restaurant really is a testament of David Kinch doing what David Kinch does best, that is, presenting the very height of local, seasonal, ingredient-driven cooking, but with a decidedly modern slant and refinement, all the while successfully evoking a true sense of place or terroir. It's this one-two punch that makes Manresa truly special, and it's my prognostication that three stars will be in Kinch and company's future.

Joel Robuchon Restaurant
3799 Las Vegas Blvd S, Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.891.7925
www.mgmgrand.com/restaurants/joel-robuchon-french-restaurant.aspx
Fri 09/21/2012, 7:30p-11:30p



After enjoying dinner the previous night at Guy Savoy, it was only natural to pay a visit to the restaurant's arch rival, Joël Robuchon, to see how the place was holding up, especially given that my first meal here nearly five years ago remains one of the best that I've ever had. Unlike the kitchen at Savoy, which has been the charge of four different chefs, the stoves here have been manned by one man since the restaurant's debut in 2005: Claude Le Tohic.

About the Chef: Le Tohic hails from a family of restaurateurs. His parents owned a crêperie in Brittany, and the Chef started working there when he was only five years old. He went to culinary school at Collège Charles Langlais in the nearby commune of Pontivy, and following graduation, secured employment at the Michelin-starred Les Hortensias After two years, he started working for Ghislaine Arabian at Le Restaurant in Lille. Soon thereafter, in 1987, Le Tohic met Joël Robuchon while serving as a restaurant consultant, and began cooking at Robuchon's three-star Jamin in Paris. He worked there until 1990, then spent some time in the kitchens of La Chaumière, L'Assiette Gourmande, Château de Locguenole, and Restaurant Yours Faithfully all the way in Kotturpuram, Chennai, India.

Le Tohic then took on the role of helming the apprenticeship program at the Centre de Formation d'Apprentis Interconsulaire de l'Eure, a vocational school in Val-de-Reuil, and even won the Meilleur Ouvrier de France award during his tenure there in 2004. However, at the request of Robuchon, he moved to the United States the following year to help open his mentor's eponymous restaurant inside the MGM Grand. Le Tohic has been doing quite well for himself since then. He's been given the honor of Maître Cuisinier de France (“Master Chef of France”), and in 2009, was a semifinalist for James Beard's "Best Chef: Southwest" award, winning the title the following year.


Penned by noted French designer Pierre-Yves Rochon, the interior is as luxurious as you'd expect, modeled after the grandeur of a 1930's-era Parisian salon and awash in shades of aubergine. There's also an "outside" dining terrace replete with a wall of greenery, as well as a private dining room, which is where we were seated (note that there's a $250 fee for the privilege).


As far as Joel Robuchon's menu goes, you can order à la carte, and there are a few prix fixe options ranging from $120 to $240 per person, but we were clearly here for their flagship Menu Degustation, a 16-course tasting menu extravaganza priced at a wince-inducing $425 a head. Wine pairings, meanwhile, were an additional $295pp (and go all the way up to a blistering $995). Click for a larger version.


The "Right" Cocktail [$19.00] | Right Gin, St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur, Raspberries, Fresh Squeezed Lemon Juice, Tonic, Lemon Zest
Arriving early, I began with a cocktail from the restaurant's posh, intimate bar. The "Right" Cocktail was a refreshing, summer-y drink, with an unabashedly fruity, floral essence and just enough countervailing tartness from the citrus. You could hardly taste the alcohol, which could be good or bad, but personally, I really would've liked a bit more gin character to show through the sweetness.


The City's best bread cart (though M. Savoy may have something to say about that) offered us over a dozen varietals: bacon-mustard, wheat, olive oil, Gruyère, Comté, pain de campagne, natural bread, olive bread, herb brioche, rustic brioche, rosemary-sea salt brioche, basil brioche, saffron brioche, and finally, a pain au lait.


1: La Pomme Verte | en émulsion sur une gelée de pamplemousse ruby et avocat, rafraichi à la menthe (Green apple on ruby red grapefruit gelee with avocado and fresh mint)
Tintero Elvio « Sori Gramella » Moscato d'Asti 2011
Our amuse bouche course comprised an emulsion of ruby red grapefruit and avocado, along with apples, set in a base of dry ice (and a Playa-esque plate) for the requisite theatrics. It was a refreshing, even bracing dish--effective as a palate opener--with a subtle avocado character balanced by the tart, tangy notes of apple.


2: La Tomate | en salade, huile d'olive au basilic, tomate et mozzarella en gelée (Salad of tomato with basil infused olive oil, tomato gelée topped with mozzarella)
Tintero Elvio « Sori Gramella » Moscato d'Asti 2011
One of my dining companions deemed this the best tomato that he'd ever had, and I can certainly see where's he was coming from (though I may have to call out the momotaros at Totoraku as superior). It was a two-parter: first, a stout cylinder of tomato topped with herbs and balsamic; then, a jiggly, labor-intensive tomato water jelly dotted with nipples of mozzarella and basil/tomato purées. I first tried the tomato by itself, and appreciated its tart balsamic character and weighty hints of olive oil. Taken with the tomato water, the overall effect was like a reimagined insalata Caprese, with the wonderful heft of the mozz tying everything together in commendable fashion.


3: Le Caviar | le navet rouge et le radis avec un carpaccio de hamachi (Red turnip and radish with yellowtail carpaccio)
Domaines Schumberger, Grand Cru Saering, Riesling, Alsace 2007
Our first of three caviar courses paired a fresh, supple cut of hamachi with the tangy, bitter crunch of turnip and radish, all while the caviar added a perfectly-placed kick of saltiness to the fray.


4: Le Caviar | une crème de chou-fleur glacée tremblotante (chilled cauliflower cream)
Domaines Schumberger, Grand Cru Saering, Riesling, Alsace 2007
A chilled potage of cauliflower softly conveyed the inherent nature of one of my favorite vegetables. It was a cool, creamy, trembling soup that was beautifully set off by the included dollop of roe.


5: Le Caviar | tartare de saumon aux jeunes pousses de shiso (salmon tartar with shiso sprouts)
Domaines Schumberger, Grand Cru Saering, Riesling, Alsace 2007
Here was perhaps the best salmon tartar that I'd ever had. The fish itself I found undeniably creamy, yet briny, with a great touch of caviar that deftly enhanced the natural salinity of the salmon, all while shiso provided an overarching tinge of mintiness to things.


6: La Grenouille | la cuisse en fritot à la purée aillée eu au coulis de persil (Crispy frog leg, garlic and parsley coulis)
Domaines Schumberger, Grand Cru Saering, Riesling, Alsace 2007
Speaking of bests, this might have been the best frog dish that I'd ever had. We had here a leg, wrapped in a nest of phyllo, then served with shimejis, garlic purée, and parsley. It was fantastic, with the grenouille showing off a superbly satisfying, straightforward savoriness and wonderful crunch, keenly accented by the tang of parsley, all while the garlic added a palpable heft to the dish. This is one of M. Robuchon's signature dishes, and it's easy to see why.


7: La Saint-Jacques | la noix poêlée dans une nage au curry vert (Seared scallop with young leek in green curry)
Maison Olivier Leflaive, Chassagne-Montrachet 2009
A lone scallop arrived set in a green curry emulsion, topped with a brunoise of pepper as well as a pepper blossom. It was cooked spot on, with a delightfully sweet brine that was adroitly complemented by the tart 'n' tangy peppers. At the same time, the aromatic zest of the curry came through on the finish, and I quite enjoyed the astringency and crunch of the leeks here, too.


8: Les Crustacés | la langoustine truffée et cuite en ravioli (Truffled langoustine ravioli)
Maison Olivier Leflaive, Chassagne-Montrachet 2009
Another mainstay of Robuchon is this plump, snappy raviolo of langoustine. I found it pleasingly sweet and saline, enhanced by the depth and weight of the paired foie gras butter, along with a hint of earthy truffle. It was delicious alone, but the small mound of savoy cabbage provided a well-placed crunch and lightness to the dish that took things up another notch.


9: Les Crustacés | le homard rôti au vinaigre de riz, pomme ratte écrasée aux oursins et beurre salé (rice vinegar roasted lobster on crushed potatoes with salted butter and sea urchin)
Maison Olivier Leflaive, Chassagne-Montrachet 2009
Lobster here was nicely crunchy, though slightly tough, with a delectably ocean-y relish that was adeptly set off by the bits of sea urchin incorporated within. Mashed Ratte potatoes (the same variety used in Robuchon's legendary pommes purée), meanwhile, formed a perfect base to the dish, grounding and moderating the seafood admirably.


10: Les Crustacés | la crevette royale dans un bouillon coralline végétale (tiger prawn in a herbal infusion)
Maison Olivier Leflaive, Chassagne-Montrachet 2009
A dumpling of tiger prawn was fantastic, really conveying the inherent sweetness and salinity of the crustacean. I loved it alone, but the accompanying broth of daikon and herbs was excellent, providing a bright, piquant, almost Asian-y counterpoint that keenly played off of the seafood.


11: Le Kabocha | en symphonie soyeuse au foie gras et gingembre (Delicate kabocha pumpkin veloute on foie gras custard with ginger)
Julien Pilon « Lône » Condrieu 2010
Given that I'm no fan of kabocha, I was a bit wary of this course, but it turned out surprisingly well. The saccharine nature of the Japanese squash was present, but not overwhelming at all, thanks in part to the contrast imparted by the ginger emulsion. Squash seeds, meanwhile, provided a lovely crunch and saltiness to the mix, and I appreciated the foie gras here as well, which added a palpable, countervailing gravity to the course. Probably the best kabocha dish that I've had.


12: Le Bar | cuit en peau aux cinq épices, avec une sauce au verjus (Pan-fried sea bass with five spices served with verjus sauce)
Julien Pilon « Lône » Condrieu 2010
A cuboid of sea bass was cooked flawlessly--supple and succulent--with a wonderfully refined brine and delightfully crispy, salty skin. Unfortunately, the paired sauce of five-spice and verjuice I found overwhelmingly tart, taking attention away from the natural goodness of the bass.


13: Le Veau | en côte au plat avec un jus gras et escorté de taglierinis de légumes au pistou (Sautéed veal chop with natural jus and vegetable taglierinis flavored with pesto)
Château Tour Seran, Médoc 2004
I'm generally not a huge fan of veal, but this sous vide chop was pretty impeccable. In fact, it was one of the strongest I've had: expectedly tender in texture, but with an immensely satisfying, rich, deep flavor. The meat easily stood on its own merits, but its accoutrements of garlic, olive, and mushroom were on point as well, and I especially appreciated the herby, minty zing of the basil pesto pasta.


14: Le Soja | les jeunes pousses cuites comme un risotto aux zestes de citron vert et ciboulette (Risotto of soybeans sprouts, lime zest and chives)
Château Tour Seran, Médoc 2004
Our final savory course brought out a wondrous "risotto" of soy bean sprouts, a completely new experience for me. I loved the sprouts' crunchiness, as well as how their bright, light, vegetal character was enhanced by the use of pistachio and lime, while, on the finish, the expected weight and lushness of a proper risotto showed through. Very nice--I could've eaten a big bowl of the stuff.


15: Le Fraise | une panna cotta au « dulce de leche », glace au lait sur un biscuit chiffon toasté (Caramel panna cotta topped with fresh strawberries in a balsamic reduction, condensed milk ice cream)
Château Lamothe Guignard 2ème Cru, Sauternes 2009
The first of Pastry Chef Kamel Guechida's desserts was mélange of strawberry, balsamic, dulce de leche panna cotta, and toasted biscuit. It was marvelous, a perfectly integrated dish that smartly played the sweetness of the fruit against the caramel-y panna cotta and crisp, buttery biscuit.


16: Le Citron | en gelée de miel d'acacia, créme onctueuse sur un croustillant au Gianduja (Honey gelee and a light lemon cream with spiced red fruit coulis)
Château Lamothe Guignard 2ème Cru, Sauternes 2009
Finally, we had here a superb hazelnut ice cream, set in honey gelée and lemon cream, with a Gianduja crisp and dots of fruit coulis. The citric sweetness of the dessert struck me first, which then joined up with the nuttiness of the ice cream and transitioned to an intriguing complex of flavors that I couldn't quite put my finger on.




Le Moka - Le Thé | escortés de mignardises
We closed with some coffee and, more interestingly, some excellent teas from the restaurant's tea cart, served with French acacia honey and brown sugar. Accompanying the after-dinner drinks was an impressive array of various candies from the restaurant's cart, though we did temper our consumption given the amount of food that we'd just had.


To take home: a bar of Robuchon-branded chocolate, a booklet with pretty pictures of the restaurant, and the evening's menu, printed on Robuchon's signature sparkly paper.

After a three year hiatus, it was great to be able to experience Robuchon once again. As far as the food goes, everything, with perhaps the exception of the sea bass, was commendable, and in fact, several of the dishes were among the best of their respective types that I'd ever had. What we're talking about is sort of the height of classically-leaning French haute cuisine. The experience, though, wasn't quite as enjoyable somehow, vis-à-vis my pervious meals here. I don't know if it was because we were seated in the private dining room, but the service in general seemed colder, and a little less affable than we'd remembered. We were also not provided the opportunity to select our own breads from the bread cart, nor were the tea cart and mignardises cart presented automatically. Perhaps my advice for next time should be: don't go with a large party (we had eight), and sit in the main dining room.

Check out the master Index of Posts to view a list of all the restaurants that I've visited. Or, see the Interactive Dining Map and The Best Thing I Ever Ate, a list of my favorites dishes of all time. Contact me via email at kevin at kevineats dot com.

Gordon Ramsay Steak at Paris
3655 Las Vegas Blvd S, Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.946.4663
www.parislasvegas.com/casinos/paris-las-vegas/restaurants-dining/gordon-ramsay-steak-detail.html
Sat 09/22/2012, 05:25p-09:35p



This past May, Gordon Ramsay opened up his first Sin City restaurant, and big surprise, it's a steakhouse, because that's just what they need more of in Vegas. The $5 million spot, housed at the oft-ignored Paris, bowed right before the start of Hell's Kitchen Season 10, and marketing materials proudly proclaimed the restaurant as a showcase for the angry Chef's "fury for flavor" (seriously, that's the tagline). Naturally, the timing of the debut wasn't coincidental, as the winner of the TV show was billed as receiving a $250,000/year "head chef" position at the steakhouse. When the dust settled, Philadelphian Christina Wilson reigned supreme, handily defeating Justin Antiorio in the finale. She started work at the restaurant on September 12th, but of course we all know that "head chef" really translates to a glorified sous, so it's Executive Chef Kevin Hee who actually runs the show.

About the Chef: Chef Hee hails from Honolulu, Hawaii, and is a graduate of Kaiser High School (class of 1996). He enrolled at the University of Hawaii at Manoa as a business major, but soon realized that his true calling was in the restaurant industry. As such, he began working for noted Hawaiian chef/restaurateur Sam Choy while in college, and following his tenure at UH, found his way across a number of restaurants on Oahu. Hee eventually hooked up with Michael Mina, working at his various properties before relocating to Las Vegas to become Executive Sous Chef at Mandalay Bay's Stripsteak in August of 2007. The following March, he transitioned to a similar role at Nobhill Tavern at the MGM Grand, and even worked a stint at Mina's eponymous restaurant at the Bellagio. In 2010, Hee moved to Motor City to take the reins at Mina's Bourbon Steak and SaltWater, both at the MGM Grand Detroit, a position he would hold until decamping last year.

The front-of-the-house, meanwhile, is the task of General Manager Jean-Philippe "JP" Teresi, who previously headed up operations at The Range Steakhouse at Harrah's. Before that, he worked at Sugar Factory at Paris, Bradley Ogden at Caesars Palace, as well as Charlie Palmer Steak and Cafe Boulud, both in New York. Note that he is a different Jean-Philippe than the maître d' on Hell's Kitchen; that would be Jean-Philippe Susilovic.


GR Steak takes over the site of the former Les Artistes Steak House, a somewhat middling joint that shuttered on January 2nd. Following a complete renovation by San Rafael firm EDG: Interior Architecture and Design, the restaurant now features a whopping 274 seats, and is spread out across a main dining room, private dining room, chef's table, and separate bar/lounge. The kitchen, natch, is on proud display via an open layout, and there's even a mezzanine dining area up top. Of particular note is the ginormous Union Jack emblazoned on the ceiling, which was incorrectly painted initially.


The Gordon Ramsay Steak menu offers up prototypical steakhouse fare, with perhaps a bit of British flair thrown in for good measure. Of note is the beef aging program, featuring dry-aged cuts ostensibly selected by the legendary Pat LaFrieda and rested for a minimum of 28 days in his "Himalayan salt room." A five-course Limited Edition Tasting Menu is also available at $135pp, and includes a signed photo of Chef Ramsay. Click for larger versions.


Gordon Ramsay performs the pre-dinner, tableside presentation of meat made popular by CUT, but takes things up a notch with the inclusion of a mirrored pedestal for the steaks. The beverage selection, meanwhile, is housed on an iPad running Incentient's SmartCellar software.


The Drifter [$14.00] | Paris LV Proprietary Knob Creek Barrel #77, Ginger Liqueur, Falernum, Lemon, Bitters
English Garden [$14.00] | Hendricks Gin, Lemon, Basil, Cucumber, Basil Infused Rock Candy, Celery Bitters
Pimm's Cup [$14.00] | Pimm's No 1, Sparkling Lemonade
Side Car [$14.00] | Hennessey VSOP, Orange Curacao, Apricot Jam, Bitter, Lemon Juice
We started things off with a few cocktails to share 'round the table. The Drifter was our favorite of the bunch, really showing off the character of the custom Knob Creek but layering on top of it a good balance of citric and sugary notes. Meanwhile, the English Garden was completely different, with a very vegetal, herbaceous tartness that worked well enough over its base of gin, though I would've liked a bit less celery. The easiest-drinking libation here was the Pimm's Cup, a fairly traditional presentation of the liqueur, with a light, fruity, spicy flair that made it a perfect summer-y cocktail. On the other hand, The Sidecar was much stiffer, but nevertheless enjoyable, with a tasty amalgam of sweet, smoky, and bitter flavors, and brightened up by the citrus-y overtones from the lemon.


A plate of bread was subsequently placed on our table. Lemon-thyme-olive oil focaccia, roasted pancetta, mushroom-truffle, and Stilton-walnut varieties were offered, all served with an English Devonshire sea salt butter.


With our cocktails dispensed with, we wanted to go with a fun, gluggable wine, and thus ordered up a bottle of Moscato d'Asti, specifically the 2011 I.V.I.S.p.A.-Canelli Moscato d'Asti Risata [$47]. That perhaps wasn't the best choice, as it was very sweet, too much so in fact, and we would've been much better off with something dryer. Nothing wrong with the wine per se; it was just the wrong decision here.


Market Green Salad [$16.00] | butter lettuce, crisp pancetta, market greens, shropshire blue cheese, tomato raisins, green goddess dressing
The name "Market Green Salad" on the menu didn't exactly inspire confidence, but the dish turned out to be a pleasant surprise. I really enjoyed the crispness and lightness of the greens here, and loved the salty, crunchy exclamation point provided by the pancetta. At the same time, the use of blue cheese imparted a certain weight and piquancy to the salad, while the creamy, tangy green goddess performed wonderfully in tying everything together.


Short Rib Tortellini [$20.00] | bay scallops, foie gras emulsion, Sausalito watercress
Tortellini were as delicious as you'd expect, with the deep, dark flavors of the tender short rib dutifully augmented by the notes of foie gras in the course, while the watercress provided just a touch of countervailing pepperiness. Scallops seemed like a somewhat odd addition, though I did like them as another point of interest in the dish. Quite nice--I could've eaten a big bowl of the stuff.


Maine Lobster [$28.00] | chorizo stuffed maine lobster, butter poached, brandied lobster cream sauce, sweet corn
A tail of lobster was a touch over, but still showed off a pleasing savor, with a lovely saline sweetness that was deftly enhanced by the corn. I also appreciated the accompanying cream sauce, which did a great job in integrating all the various elements on the plate together.


Smoked Beef Tartare [$22.00] | lemon zest, red onion, capers, guinness infused mustard seeds, yukon gold herb chips
The classic steak tartar was revamped slightly here with impressive results. Texturally, the meat was spot on and satisfying, certainly beefy in essence, but also adroitly tempered by the tanginess of the accompanying mustard, capers, and onion. The whole dish was eminently balanced, an expertly crafted take of a steakhouse mainstay.


Heirloom Tomato [$19.00] | jamón ibérico de bellota, piccalilli purée, ticklemore cheese, champagne vinaigrette, basil crystals
The ubiquitous heirloom tomato salad was taken up a level by the incorporation of jamón ibérico, which lent an enveloping veil of salty, rich, fatty goodness that keenly imparted a sense of depth and weightiness to things. I also enjoyed the tomatoes themselves--sweet, succulent, and juicy--and their range of textures and forms, while the Ticklemore and piccalilli imparted further complexity to this surprisingly multifaceted dish.


Asparagus Soup [$18.00] | dungeness crab, parmesan custard, pickled white asparagus, smoked salmon caviar
Rounding out our appetizers was a delightful asparagus soup, one that really did a commendable job expressing the pure, verdant character of the vegetable. At the same time, the Parmesan added depth and body to the dish, and the combination of salty ikura and sweet crab made perfect sense.


To pair with the steak, we went with a bottle of 2010 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino High Mountain Vines [$68] from Argentina's Mendoza region. It was quite nice: juicy and concentrated, with a good base of dark fruit and oak, and stood up well against the beef.


Bone-in Rib Eye 24oz [$58.00]
Moving on to the main courses now, we did a sort of "steak tasting," ordering up multiple cuts of the meat, and having the kitchen pre-slice 'em for us to share, similar to what I've done before at CUT. The first round featured prime steaks, advertised as dry-aged by famed butcher Pat LaFrieda back in his facilities in New York. First up was the ribeye, which was pretty amazing, the most decadent of the cuts certainly, with gobs of bovine flavor as well as fat. It was a quintessential expression of all that's wonderful about rib eye, beautifully moderated by a touch of bitterness from the crisp charring present.


Bone-in New York Strip 18oz [$63.00]
One of the benefits of doing a "tasting" is that you get to really compare steaks back-to-back, and that's exactly what we did. The strip steak conveyed a more balanced, more nuanced beefiness; it was far less in-your-face than the ribeye, and also showed off a lovely amount of char. Texturally, it was the firmest cut that we had, with a satisfying "crunch" to it.


Filet 8oz [$53.00]
Last up was the filet mignon, and, not surprisingly, it was undoubtedly the most tender of the trio. The steak was super easy-to-eat, with the least amount of intramuscular fat and, of course, the mildest flavor. It was still quite delicious though, and would make a good choice for steak newbies.


Spinach [$12.00] | sautéed
Fire Roasted Corn [$12.00] | corn, chile, lime
The steakhouse experience just wouldn't seem complete without a bevy of sides, and GRS certainly serves up an enviable selection. Sautéed spinach was just that, but a perfect example of the dish, with the desired astringency of the greens on proud display. The corn was also a winner, with the sweetness of the kernels vibrantly conveyed, yet deftly tempered by the tangy lime and lingering heat in the dish. It sort of reminded me of the "Chipotle Corn, Lime Butter, Queso Oaxaca" that I had at Playground down in Santa Ana.


Sautéed Asparagus [$13.00] | chanterelle, white asparagus puree, veal demi-glace
Asparagus was also quite nice: crisp and expectedly bitter, with the brightness of the spears keenly balanced by the earthy relish of chanterelle.


Fingerling Potatoes [$12.00] | parmesan, truffle
Sautéed Mushrooms [$13.00] | garlic chips, scallions, bonito
Mac & Cheese [$13.00] | blue, cheddar, parmesan, truffle
Being quite the potato fiend, I rather enjoyed the fingerlings here, which were really a prototypical example of the roasted root vegetable, with a delightfully salty, savory smack that left me satisfied. A selection of sautéed shrooms was also nice, with the umami-rich taste of the katsuobushi sharply emphasizing the natural earthiness of the mushrooms. The real standout of the sides, however, was the mac 'n' cheese, which might've been the best I've ever had: perfectly textured, with a flawless harmony between the cheesiness of the dish and the heady, overarching notes of truffle--we were seriously considering ordering another round of it!


At this point, we wanted something with a bit more age and thus purchased a second bottle of red: the 2003 Ramey Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain [$170] from our very own Napa Valley. The wine was a pleasant surprise, a great expression of Cab actually: very well put together, and with everything that you'd expect.


Rib Cap 8oz [$58.00]
Now we tried two of the American wagyu cuts, both ostensibly with beef marbling scores of at least 9 out of 12 on the Japanese scale. First was the oft-recommended rib eye cap, which is basically a heavily marbled piece that sits on the perimeter of the steak. It was probably my favorite cut of the evening, with a uniquely silken, tender consistency and a very well-integrated amount of fat. Overall, a more refined eating experience vis-à-vis the standard ribeye. This one should be at the top of your list as far as steaks go.


Filet 8oz [$78.00]
Finally, we enjoyed our tenderloin, which, though very tasty, wasn't a night-and-day difference over the standard varietal. If you're a filet fan, there's probably not a huge advantage to going with the wagyu, as I think you'll be satisfied either way. As expected, the flavor wasn't nearly as intense as that of the preceding rib eye, but the meat was still quite delicious, and even better when taking into account the char of the steak.


Fish and Chips [$44.00] | loup de mer, truffle chips, crème fraiche tartar sauce
Ramsay's rendition of fish & chips was no doubt one of the strongest that I've tasted. In place of the typical haddock or cod, we had instead European seabass, which I found tender and juicy, yet crisp on the outside, with a pronounced salinity that was augmented by the dish's topping of seaweed. Meanwhile, a citric component formed a fitting counterpoint to the fish, and the paired truffle fries were spot on, absolutely fantastic on their own.


Roasted Beef Wellington [$54.00] | glazed root vegetables, potato puree, red wine demi glace
And now we come to the evening's pièce de résistance, really, the one dish that we were looking forward to the most. The "Welly" is oft regarded as Gordon Ramsay's signature dish, and is prominently featured on his show Hell's Kitchen. I'd actually had it before at Ramsay's West Hollywood restaurant, but was sorely disappointed. Tonight, thus, was a chance for redemption, and indeed, the iteration here was miles beyond what we'd experienced before. Compared to the horribly overdone version in LA, this preparation was cooked nicely rare, and showed off a satisfying beefiness that was duly enhanced by the dark, rich relish of the duxelles. The flaky crust did an admirable job moderating the hearty flavors at play, and I appreciated the levity imparted by the potato and other root veggies as well. This was basically a textbook Wellington: nothing game-changing, but certainly quite tasty.


Dessert was, of course, a must, and before we had a chance to decide upon what wanted, the kitchen ended up sending out a complementary tasting of all seven items (this, after Chef Hee discovered that we had a mutual friend in the form of Marianthefoodie, who highly recommended the restaurant). Click for larger versions.


For dessert, our sommelier recommended the 2007 Maculan Torcolato [$87] from Italy's Veneto region. It's a wine that's been affected by botrytis, and apparently, is further concentrated by twisting the grapes using twine. The Maculan was all that I wanted from a dessert wine, with an almost Sauternes-esque character to it: sweet, but not overwhelmingly so, redolent of stone fruit, with a lovely brightness and counterbalancing acidity.


Melon Panna Cotta [$13.00] | citrus cantaloupe panna cotta, parisian melon balls, honey dew consommé, watermelon sorbet
Unsurprisingly, the panna cotta was the lightest of our seven desserts, and featured the many faces of melon. It was a bright, summer-y, refreshing course, one filled with light, fruity notes, but counteracted a bit by the lactic tartness of the panna cotta.


Cheesecake [$13.00] | cheesecake, blueberry compote, graham cracker crumb, strawberry granita, micro basil
This sort of deconstructed cheesecake was definitely a highlight. When all the elements were tasted together, everything just clicked, with the tangy, creamy cake playing wonderfully off of the sugary fruit, all while the graham cracker moderated the interaction. Just beautifully integrated, with everything having its place.


Caramel "Banoffee" [$13.00] | banana toffee tarts, chocolate creameaux, coffee ice cream, cocoa nib, cotti thyme
Next was a reimagined banoffee pie, a type of English dessert made with bananas and toffee. The interplay between the two components was spot on, while the coffee ice cream served as an off-sweet, somewhat bitter foil that really added a sense of balance to the dish. I'm generally not a fan of coffee desserts, but this was quite pleasing.


Peach Trio [$13.00] | ruby peach ice cream sandwiches, warm peach pie with streusel and white peach sorbet
Unfortunately, with all the sampling and passing back and forth of the dishes, I forgot to try the peach dessert. My dining companions all seemed to enjoy it well enough, though. Next time!


Chocolate Layers [$13.00] | chocolate cake, passion fruit ganache layers, dark chocolate gianduja ice cream
A torte-like layer cake was nice enough, adroitly playing the contrasting flavors of chocolate and tangy fruit against each other, all over a backdrop formed by the nutty gianduja ice cream.


Bing Cherry Upside Down Cake [$13.00] | cherry upside down cake, crème fraiche anglaise, cherry compote, pistachio ice cream with praline grains
I also liked the cherry upside-down cake, which I found moist, buttery, and loaded with cherry sweetness. At the same time, the crème anglaise and pistachio ice cream provided a counterpoint to the cake, while the praline grains gave the dessert a wonderful nuttiness on the finish.


Sticky Toffee Pudding [$14.00] | sweet pudding cake, brown sugar toffee, brown butter ice cream
We closed with the restaurant's "signature" dessert, and it did not let us down. It was a perfect example of the traditional British dish, the best preparation that I've had, in fact. The dark, sugary, fruity flavors that I expected were all flawlessly conveyed in the dense, totally saturated cake, amplified by the drizzling of toffee, with the ice cream serving as an unflappable complement. A must try.


Coffee and espresso were served with whimsical chocolate cordials containing your "ABCs:" Amaretto, Baileys, and Chambord.

As regular readers will know, I've never been a huge fan of Gordon Ramsay given my subpar experiences at his WeHo restaurant (which he doesn't own anymore). This meal, though, has gone a long way in restoring my faith in the notoriously mercurial chef. It was, in fact, a near-flawless steakhouse experience, and so far, is the only place that's rivaled CUT in my eyes. Chef Hee seems to be doing a bang-up job running the place and should be commended for his efforts, and I'm very interested to see what the kitchen will do when/if they get their hands on some real Japanese wagyu (the ban was lifted in August).

Gordo, however, is not through with Vegas. He's planning to open Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill at Caesars Palace later this year (replacing Bradley Ogden), which will then be followed up with GR Burger at Planet Hollywood. Perhaps more relevant, though, to this largely Los Angeles audience is the Fat Cow, which is slated to grand open in the coming weeks (it's already soft opened) at The Grove shopping center. Yes, it's another gastropub (sigh), but hopefully Ramsay can bring sometime new to the table. Given the strength of this dinner, I do have fairly high hopes for the place, and with Andi Van Willigan, another Michael Mina protégée, at the helm, things should be looking good.

[UPDATE 2012-09-28: Turns out that Van Willigan won't be so involved with The Fat Cow after all. Rather, it's Chef Mathew Woolf (formerly of West Restaurant & Lounge) who'll be taking the reins at Ramsay's newest eatery. The place should grand open on October 1st.]

The Fat Cow Restaurant
189 The Grove Dr, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.965.1020
www.facebook.com/fatcowla
Sun 09/30/2012, 07:30p-11:00p



Hot on the heels of my surprisingly good visit to the new Gordon Ramsay Steak is the unfortunately-named Fat Cow, Gordo's newest venture set in The Grove. The restaurant is one of the most widely anticipated debuts of the year, and is yet another gastropub-y concept to hit LA. Word is that, early on, GR Steak's Chef Kevin Hee was supposed to have a significant role in opening the place, but ended up being forced out by investors, which also resulted in the departure of Hell's Kitchen Sous Chef (and GR Holdings Corporate Executive US Chef) Andi Van Willigan (remember, they were both part of the Mina group for several years). With all the chef shuffles, the kitchen is now helmed by one Mathew Woolf, late of West Restaurant & Lounge.

About the Chef: Woolf was born and raised in the UK, and the Chef was exposed at a young age to the benefits of good eating, as his grandparents ran a produce shop that supplied some of the best kitchens in London. He began his professional culinary career at age 16, when he took on a dishwasher role at The Ship Inn in Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex; just eight months later, he was promoted to head chef. During this period, he also attended culinary school at the Hospitality Plus College of Catering in Chelmsford, graduating in 2000. From there, Woolf became demi-chef de partie at the famed Claridge's Hotel in London, working under Chef John Williams.

In October 2004, he followed Williams to The Ritz Hotel, where he served as Sous Chef, staying there until the end of 2007. The next year, Woolf moved to the United States to cook at Sixteen Restaurant at Trump international Hotel and Tower in Chicago, a gig that lasted until August 2009. In 2010, he relocated to the West Coast, landing a Chef de Cuisine role at Ray Garcia's FIG Restaurant at the Fairmont. The following August, Woolf secured his first Executive Chef position, taking the reins at West Restaurant and Lounge at the Hotel Angeleno, a role that he would keep for a year before finally decamping to helm The Fat Cow.



The Fat Cow takes over the spot formerly held by the mediocre Farm of Beverly Hills. The space has be redone by AK Design Network, and is described by marketing materials as an American "roadhouse" eatery. As is par for the course these days, the aesthetic aims for warmth and rusticity, but with an industrial-country-chic type panache. Naturally, communal dining tables are utilized to full effect here, as are reclaimed wood, Edison bulbs, and other various vintage, eclectic touches.


The Fat Cow's menu, like many others these days, takes a "classic-yet-modern" approach to cooking, featuring traditional comfort food stylings, but hopefully taken up a notch. There's even a children's menu (usually not a good sign), while the Moo Bar up front handles the old-timey desserts (and will eventually offer to-go items as well). Click for a larger version.


To drink, there's a full bar available, in addition to a small selection of beers and Cali-centric wines. Click for larger versions.


Elderflower Spritz [$11.00] | cocchi americano, elderflower, soda, served over ice in a wine glass with an orange slice and lemon wedge
Fat Cow "Manhattan" [$12.00] | bulleit rye, byrrh grand quinquina, stirred and served up with cherries and an orange peel
Chupacabra [$10.00] | dos manos blanco, lime, jalapeno, ginger beer, shaken and served tall with a chile-salt rim
As usual these days, a trio of cocktails marked the start of our meal. I went with the Elderflower Spritz, which I found to be a great summer quaffer: fruity and floral in essence, with a lively carbonation. On the other end of the spectrum was the Fat Cow's version of a Manhattan, which was also quite delicious, with a classic, yet contemporary character and a good balance of spicy fruit over the base of rye. Last up was the Chupacabra--no slouch either. This one played the aggressiveness of the agave nicely against the contrasting tartness of citrus and ginger, all while the chile-salt rim added a well-placed piquancy to things.


Charcuterie & Cheese [$11.00] | cured meats, farm house cheese
A cheese and charcuterie plate brought together tasty cuts of coppa, prosciutto, and salami on the meat side, along with two cheeses: a Lamb Chopper blue from California and one that unfortunately I didn't catch the name of (though it was quite tasty--creamy, nutty, and subtle).


Chilled Tomato & Red Pepper Gazpacho [$9.00] | cucumber, olive tapenade
The gazpacho was a refreshing jolt to the palate: summer-y and bright, with a lovely mix of tangy and spicy flavors. I also appreciated the weight of the olive here, while the cucumber imparted a great crunch and lightness to the dish.


Branzino Ceviche [$14.00] | avocado, horseradish, ginger dressing
A ceviche came out more like a crudo. The use of avocado here added a significant weight and lusciousness to the fish, and, combined with the dressing, made the branzino sit heavy on the palate. I really would've liked more brightness, more acidity to the dish to balance things out.


Mini Beef Sliders [$12.00] | short rib & kobe, cheddar
The sliders were arguably the smallest I've seen, though rather tasty (I would have no problem popping a few of these during a meal). They were classic in presentation, with traditional ingredients and a nicely charred, beefy patty and a delightfully tangy crunch from the pickle.


Mac & Cheese [$8.00] | elbow pasta, cheddar cream, truffle
A side of macaroni and cheese was excellent. The pasta showed off just the right texture--supple, yet with a good bite--and I loved the crunchy bits on top. The integration of the cheese with the subtle hints of truffle was spot on as well, and I really enjoyed the light, bright counterpoint provided by the peas.


Brown Cow [$12.00] | vizcaya dark rum, lime, mint, angostura bitters, sparkling wine, shaken and served up with a mint sprig
Perfect 10 [$11.00] | ketel one, hangar one buddha's hand, passion fruit ice tea, mint, lemon juice, built and served long
Our second round of cocktails brought us the Brown Cow, which, according to one of my dining companions, had an almost suanmei-esque kick to it, with a distinct tart fruitiness playing off of the rum. The Perfect 10, meanwhile, was too sweet for my liking, with its sugary, candied character that actually recalled the taste of Skittles.


Gordon's Shepherds Pie [$20.00] | braised lamb, yukon potato mash
Here was a very traditional shepherd's pie, basically a type of meat pie filled with lamb and topped with a mashed potato crust. We're talking "meat & potatoes" here, and the dish was all that you'd expect: hearty, filling, and comforting, with the tender, richly-flavored meat melding well with the comparatively mild potato.


Fish & Chips [$18.00] | cod, beer batter, tartar sauce
Next was a quintessential preparation of fish and chips. Made with the traditional choice of cod, the fish was on point, nicely moist, flaky, and delicately saline on the inside, with a lovely, golden crust to boot. The paired tartar sauce worked beautifully here, though I would've liked a bit more crispness on the fries.


Coppa Picante, Figs [$16.00] | fontina cheese, roasted garlic, roasted figs
The restaurant features a number of pizzas on the menu, so naturally we had to give one a go. Our server recommended this particular pie, and though it was a touch on the saccharine side for me, I still enjoyed it. The sweetness came from both the caramelized onions and the figs, with those two elements serving as a fitting contrast to the savory meat. The crust was also quite nice, with a pleasing crunch and great hint of char bitterness.


For our heavier beef courses to follow, we ordered up a bottle of the Warwick "First Lady" Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, South Africa [$43]. It was a solid Cab, with pretty much everything in place, though it did come off as particularly spicy.


Flat Iron Steak, Haystack Fries [$22.00] | grass fed beef, bleu cheese butter
A flat iron was served sous vide, making for a surprisingly tender, delicately-flavored steak. The compound butter was aptly incorporated here, adding a well-placed touch of saltiness to the dish. I also appreciated the huge mound of matchstick fries, too.


Pepper Crusted Wood Roasted Long Rib [$50.00] | waldorf salad, minted fingerling potatoes
The long rib was appropriately massive, and a bit intimidating. Fortunately though, the meat was falling-off-the-bone tender, heavy, and unapologetically rich, with the crust contributing a countervailing astringency to the beef, as well as a hint of what tasted like lemongrass. The minted fingerlings were fitting accoutrements to the rib, but I wasn't as crazy about the Waldorf, which seemed too weighty and substantial--I wanted something brighter, more acidic to cut the fat of the meat.


Cookie Milk Ice Cream Sundae [$9.00]
Our first dessert came as a recommendation from our server, and it was as delicious as you'd expect, with a deft interplay between sweet and nutty flavors and a lovely mélange of disparate textures.


Treacle Tart [$8.00]
Next was The Fat Cow's version of a classic English dessert. I rather liked it, finding the sweet, fruity, jammy treacle (a sugar syrup) a good match against the dense pastry.


Sticky Toffee Pudding [$10.00]
We closed with a sticky toffee pudding. Though not quite up to the lofty level of the one at Gordon Ramsay Steak, it was still nonetheless quite delectable, with the dense, decadent cake conveying deep, dark, sugary notes that we all enjoyed. I'd love to see this paired with some ice cream (brown butter perhaps?).

According to press materials, Ramsay's idea here was to have an uncomplicated, "neighborhood restaurant" type of place. In that regard, The Fat Cow appears to be mostly successful, serving up comfortable, cozy dishes that, for the most part, satisfy (though there are a few tweaks that I'd like to witness). I think it's a fitting concept for The Grove that'll do well. However, at the same time, I really would like to see the kitchen stretch a bit more, play it a bit less conservative with some of the dishes, and perhaps show us some of the haute, three-star flair that made Gordo famous in the first place.

Seoul Sausage Co.
11313 Mississippi Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90025
310.477.7739
www.seoulsausage.com
Tue 10/02/2012, 07:15p-08:10p





One of the more inspiring restaurant success stories over the past couple of years has been that of Seoul Sausage, quite simply the hottest thing to ride the Korean Wave since Gangnam Style. We first ran into them at Project by Project's annual Plate by Plate tasting benefit, where their encased meat proved to be one of the event's more popular attractions. Bolstered by the catchy tagline of "Make Sausage Not War," what started as a gleam in Chef Chris Oh's eye has blossomed into an actual brick & mortar eatery set in the enclave of Little Osaka.

A bit of history: The story of Seoul Sausage began in 2010 with NorCal native and University of Arizona alumnus Chris Oh, who created the idea after watching the Food Network and witnessing the incredible popularity of Roy Choi's Kogi concept. He loved the idea of Korean-inspired tacos, and after stewing a while, came up with another method of reinventing KBBQ in a familiar form: sausages. Oh had never made sausage before, but invested in the proper machinery and taught himself, incorporating and modifying the kalbi recipes that he had gleaned from his mother growing up. After moving down to LA that summer, he was introduced to brothers Ted Kim and Yong Kim, who were involved with the Koreatown Barbecue Cookoff (since rechristened A Taste of Koreatown) and the LA Street Food Fest. With his perfected sausage in hand and at the Kims' urging, Oh debuted his tube meat to SoCal's foodie populace at the SFF.

It was a massive hit, and within no time, a partnership between the three was formed, with Seoul Sausage firmly establishing itself as one of the hottest up-and-comers on the LA culinary scene. With this momentum, the trio began turning up at various food festivals, catering gigs, and special events all over the Southland, all without a retail location or even a food truck. The truck, though, eventually came in a big way, when the team was invited to participate on Season 3 of Food Network's The Great Food Truck Race. Seoul Sausage was a favorite to win the contest from the beginning, and indeed, in the end, they dominated the competition, taking five of the seven challenges, and reigned supreme, winning $50,000 and getting to keep their specially commissioned food truck. Though they remained mum about the victory, rumors were abound that they'd come out on top, further heightening the already fervent excitement surrounding their new location.


Seoul Sausage is situated in a small-ish spot at the intersection of Sawtelle and Mississippi, next door to shave ice slanger Blockheads, Coffee Tomo, and famed noodlery Tsujita LA. Inside, things are pretty cozy; the kitchen takes up most of the space, and is lined with a wooden counter meant for simultaneous standing and eating. If you want to sit, look for one of the few tables outside. The centerpiece of the restaurant, however, is the mural adorning one wall. Entitled, unsurprisingly, Make Sausage Not War, the piece was created by local artist John Park over the course of 13 hours.


The Seoul Sausage menu is short but sweet. In addition to the restaurant's core selection of sausage and balls, you'll find a couple specials, which tonight included a pork belly ddukboki and galbi poutine (both of which ran out quickly). Hopefully we'll see some desserts (and booze) on there in the future, too. Click for a larger version.


Braised Kalbi Poutine [$8.00] | Twice cooked fries smothered with braised kalbi, pickled onions and avocado lime crema
The Canadian staple of poutine has certainly come into vogue in the past few years (helped, no doubt, by the iconic version at Animal), and Seoul Sausage's preparation was a well-crafted reinterpretation of the dish. Everything just came together gorgeously here--the slightly sweet ribs, hearty potatoes, tangy onions, and enveloping crema--making for a deftly integrated mélange of tastes and textures that I found immensely satisfying. A must try if available.


Flaming Fried Balls [$3.00] | Cheesy kimchi fried rice balls with spicy pork and our famous DMZ sauce
Perhaps taking a cue from the Starry Kitchen playbook, Seoul Sausage is now dealing heavily in balls, and here we enjoyed their signature presentation, first encountered at the last Plate by Plate benefit. It's a Korean arancino, basically, and very, very good. The spicy bits of pork within played perfectly with the tangy kimchi here, making for a hefty, but delicious bite, one fittingly tempered by the dish's topping of DMZ sauce (an aioli of kimchi, Sriracha, garlic, and jalapeño). One of my dining companions even likened it to a complete dish captured in spherical form.


The Little Osaka Ball [$3.00] | Deep fried Japanese curry rice ball topped with shoga infused mayo
The Little Osaka Ball, meanwhile, gives a nod to the restaurant's location in Little Osaka, and really did a wonderful job in expressing the essence of Japanese curry. I really appreciated the dark, meaty flavors conveyed by the kare, as well as the ball's incorporation of what I believe was potato. Wrapping things up was a drizzle of ginger-laced mayo, which served as a lovely exclamation point to the dish.


Kalbi Sausage [$7.00] | 100% All beef kalbi flavored sausage served with kimchi relish and garlic jalapeno aioli
Moving now into the sausages, we began with the one that started it all. It was tasty to be sure, with the rich, slightly sweet essence of kalbi conveyed well enough, and vividly accented by the incorporation of various greenery incorporated into the grind. As appealing as the sausage was, its accoutrements were on point as well, with the kimchi relish adding a piquant counterpoint to the meat, while the garlic and jalapeño (both traditional accompaniments to the BBQ) provided further complexity to things. The choice of bun worked here, too, the par-baked baguette not imparting too much character of its own, but instead serving as a soft, yielding vessel for the meat.


Spicy Pork Sausage [$7.00] | Pork sausage flavored with traditional Korean spices served with apple cabbage slaw
Our next sausage--a shorter, curvier variant--was ostensibly inspired by daeji bulgogi, a spicy marinated pork KBBQ dish. Compared to the preceding galbi version, this one was more intensely flavored, with a delightfully tinge of heat and a somewhat snappier bite as well. Meanwhile, the paired apple slaw was spot on, giving the dish a cool, crunchy counterpoint that contrasted the pork beautifully.

Despite all the hype surrounding the place, Seoul Sausage managed to deliver as expected. The sausages themselves did an admirable job in paying homage to Korean BBQ, but more importantly, were just plain good eatin'. At the same time, all the trimmings, various condiments, and non-sausage dishes were on point as well, rounding out the experience commendably. The end result was a blend of the familiar and the modern--a case of uniquely LA fusion gone right. Next up, I'd love to see the guys tackle soondae (perhaps in a morcilla mash-up).

Lotus of Siam Restaurant
953 E Sahara Ave, Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.735.3033
www.lotusofsiamlv.com or www.saipinchutima.com
Thu 09/20/2012, 11:30a-01:10p





To kick off this latest Las Vegas food trip, we headed over to the legendary Lotus of Siam, arguably the best Thai restaurant in the country, located in arguably the saddest looking strip mall in the country (having Adult Day Care next door doesn't add to the appeal). Lotus is helmed by Chef Saipin Chutima, while her husband Suchay "Bill" Chutima runs the business side of things, and has made quite a name for itself for the quality and authenticity of the cooking within, especially with regard to the restaurant's specialty of Northern Thai dishes.

A bit of history: Growing up in Chiang Mai as a child, Chef Saipin initially wanted to work in cosmetology, but was forcefully thrust into the world of cooking at the age of five by her grandmother Tha, one of the best cooks in her village. This apprenticeship went on until Tha had to retire, but by that point, Saipin had already fallen in love with the craft. At age 14, she was taken under the wing of Suchay's grandmother Anocha and his mother Pensi, both of whom were also respected cooks. Three years later, Saipin met Suchay, who happened to be hanging around in the kitchen at the time, and instantly developed a fondness for him.

Suchay's father Chatchuwan was an important figure in the finance world at the time, and hosted people from all over the globe in Chiang Mai. As such, the young Suchay was introduced to the cooking of some of Thailand's best kitchens, and became enamored with the restaurant business. He went on to attend Payap College, graduating at age 20 with a bachelor's degree in personnel administration, then went on to work with his father. After a few years, he yearned to branch out on his own, and thus applied to Columbia University in 1979, with a goal of attaining an MBA. Upon being accepted, Suchay moved to the US and began learning English, but soon thereafter, he was informed by the INS that he was in the country illegally. His dreams were shattered, and he was forced to take odd jobs to scrape by, moving to California in 1981 before finally receiving his green card in the early 1990's.

In 1987, following Anocha's passing, Saipin and Suchay were married, and the new couple took up residence in Southern California; note that the two had not seen each other for seven years by that point. Their first daughter, Pennapa "Penny" Chutima, was born soon after (she helps run the FOH, and has also dabbled in modeling/acting). In November 1994, Saipin and Suchay's dream of opening a restaurant was realized when they took over Renu Nakorn in Norwalk (originally opened by Luxkana Sreewarom back in 1985), firmly establishing the place as one of the premier Thai eateries in all of SoCal. In 1999, sensing more opportunity in the desert, the Chutimas sold the business to their friends Pharchumporn Shonkeaw and Umpa Sripetwannadee (who are still going strong there today) and used the proceeds to purchase Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas (which had actually been around since 1986). Saipin's acclaim increased ever more in Sin City, with Jonathan Gold famously deeming Lotus the best Thai restaurant in the country in his piece for Gourmet magazine. They then celebrated the birth of their second daughter Sabrina Chutima, and in 2008, Saipin was nominated by James Beard for their "Best Chef: Southwest" award, an honor that would be repeated in 2010 (with the win finally coming in 2011).

Also in 2010, the Chutimas partnered with former Wall Street options trader-turned-wine enthusiast-cum-restarateur-slash-world class bridge player (yes, all of those dashes) Roy Welland to bring Lotus of Siam to New York. The joint venture debuted in November, housed in the space that once held Welland's restaurants Cru and Washington Park. It was met with mixed reviews, with many criticizing the outpost for its higher prices, shortened menu, and less robust flavors. As such, Saipin and Suchay pulled out of the partnership in January 2011 after only two months. The restaurant was then rechristened merely "Lotus," but ended up shuttering this past May.


Inside, the restaurant is divided into two distinct spaces: an older area surrounding the buffet, and a larger, more contemporary room replete with bar and wine cellar (pictured above).



Lotus of Siam's menu is vast, featuring well over 100 dishes to choose from. The key, thus, is knowing which to order, and which to avoid (e.g. why on Earth would you order the chop suey?). All your favorites are here, but you'd be missing out if you just stuck with pad Thai and fried rice, as the real action lies with the more unique items hailing from the northern (and northeastern) parts of the country. Note that the restaurant also offers a lunch buffet, but I'd definitely skip that and go à la carte. Also worthy of mention is Lotus' wine list, curated by Sommelier Bank Atcharawan, which is probably the best of any Thai eatery in the world (I mean, how many offer multiple bottles of DRC?). It features the lengthiest selection of Riesling that I've seen from any type of restaurant, and is also a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner. Click for larger versions.


Given the depth and breadth of Lotus' wine list, we'd be remiss if we didn't try some Riesling, the first of which was the JJ Prum Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett, Mosel 2008 [$35]. It was pretty wonderful, everything that I love about a Kabinett: sweet, yet vivacious and acidic, with juicy floral and stone fruit notes, accented by a touch of petrol character. Light, bright, and refreshing--a joy to drink.


Nam Kao Tod [$7.95] | Crispy rice mixed with minced sour sausage, green onion, fresh chili, ginger, peanuts, and lime juice.
We began with a Laotian-inspired item that's one of the most oft recommended at the restaurant. The nam kao tod is basically a dish of toasted rice mixed in with a bevy of other ingredients, the sai krok isaan being particularly notable. It was delicious, probably my favorite item of the meal, with a mouth-watering mix of sour and spicy flavors perfectly moderated by the crisp bits of rice, onion, and herbs, all while the lettuce added a crunchy counterpoint to the course. Overall, a beautifully integrated dish--a must try.


Sa-Tay [$8.95] | Meat marinated with fresh herbs and spices, grilled on skewers, served with peanut sauce and cucumber salad. (Choice of beef, pork or chicken)
Outside of pad Thai, satay is undoubtedly the most ubiquitous of Thai dishes. I'm usually not terribly excited about the item (one of my dining companions ordered it), but the version here was on point: tender and succulent, with a subtle sweetness balanced by a touch of bitter char. It was definitely one of the strongest preparations that I've had, and I even appreciated the accompanying peanut sauce, as well as the tangy cucumbers in particular.


Koi Soy (Steak Tartar - Issan Style) [$16.95] | Minced beef with fresh herb, fresh and dry chili rice powder, seasoned sauce, lime juice, served raw.
Next up was what amounted to a Thai steak tartare, featuring supple, yet springy cuts of beef, deftly accented by a dash of spice and balanced by a delightful herbaceousness. The rice powder was a nice touch, too, providing a complexity and moderating element to things.


Sai Oua (Northern Style Sausage) [$9.95] | If you like Louisiana style hot sausage you have got to try these one. Stuffed with ground pork, fresh and dried herb and spice, these mild-medium spicy sausage is indeed very testy.
I'm quite the tubed meat fiend, so Lotus' presentation of the Chiang Mai varietal was definitely a must-order. It was everything that I expected and wanted: gritty in consistency, with intense, heady, pork-y flavors counterbalanced by a lovely herbaceous flair and imbued with a creeping bit of spice. Delectable alone, and even better when eaten with the paired lettuce, ginger, and onion.


Our next wine was something with a bit more age: the Josef Rosch Trittenheimer Apotheke 2003 [$40]. This was a much more intense tipple, with a more viscous body and sweeter, honeyed essence, along with greater depth and gravity. If anything, I would've liked a touch more countervailing acidity.


Garlic Prawn [$21.95] | Deep fried prawn with shell and sautéed with our special garlic sauce, topped with ground black pepper.
Prawns were tasty, wonderfully crisp and loaded with a great touch of brine that really conveyed the true essence of the crustacean. I also appreciated the pepper and garlic notes present, but I would've liked the prawns a touch less cooked.


Sea Bass with Drunken Noodle [$29.95] | Deep fried Sea Bass topped with homemade fresh chili and Thai basil. Serve on the top of pan fried flat rice noodle.
Here was basically what amounted to pad kee mao topped with fried sea bass. The fish itself was on point, crispy on the outside, yet with a tender, tasty interior that really put the bass on center stage. The Chinese-influenced noodles were enjoyable as well, with a wonderfully aromatic basil component and lingering spice that paired admirably with the fish.


Musaman Curry [$10.95] | The very interesting flavor curry made from musman curry paste with coconut cream, peanuts, onion, tomato, potato, carrot and your choice of meat or tofu.
Lotus' Massaman curry was a solid version of the dish, with a complex, multifaceted flavor profile--redolent of coconut--that worked surprisingly well with the tofu. I especially appreciated the hearty chunks of potato present.


Khao Soi [$9.95] | This typical Burmese influence Northern Thai egg noodle is served in curry sauce and coconut cream (your choice of beef or chicken), garnished with sliced red onion, lime and pickled vegetables.
The khao soi was another great dish, and a must-try if you're in the mood for noodles. I loved the sweet-spicy base to the dish, which melded beautifully with the snappy, fettucine-like noodles. Perhaps my favorite element here, though, was the use of pickles, which provided a perfect crunch and tartness to the course. I will say, though, that the chicken here wasn't really necessary; the dish easily stood alone sans meat.


Lobster (Garlic Pepper Sauce) [$135.00/MP] | Deep fried lobster, sautéed with our special garlic sauce.
Clearly, our pièce de résistance of the meal was this massive five-pound lobster, probably the largest specimen that I'd ever eaten. It sort of reminded me of a Chinese-style preparation, with a rich, deep, garlicky character tarted up by the inclusion of scallion. However, the flesh of the lobster was a bit too tough in places, a result of the sheer size of the crustacean I'm sure, and not all the flavor really permeated the meat.

A lot of people claim that Lotus of Siam is the best Thai restaurant in the country. Now, I'm not confident enough to make that declaration, but I can say that I can see where they're coming from. There was some really good cooking going on here; for the most part, the food was eminently balanced, complex, vibrant, unique, and perhaps most importantly, delicious. It's the type of place that I'd really love to have back in SoCal, but I guess I'll have to "settle" for Renu Nakorn. However, what I will say is that you really have to know what to order. I would definitely focus on the Northern or Isan fare, and forego the rookie mistake of ordering the typical stuff unless you really want to have you pad Thai--it'll make for a better meal.

Spago Restaurant
176 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.385.0880
www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/fine-dining/3635
Fri 10/04/2012, 07:45p-12:30a





Yes, that's right, the most iconic of LA restaurants has gotten a makeover. Wolfgang Puck's seminal Spago has been around, in some form or another, longer than I have, since the beginning of 1982. The current Beverly Hills location was penned by Barbara Lazaroff, Wolf's ex-wife, and though it debuted in 1997, has always had a distinctly 1980's vibe to it. Thus, for the restaurant's 30th anniversary, the interior was revamped by designer Waldo Fernandez, who also did Mezze and Soho House. That's not all, though. To go along with the refreshed space, the entire menu has been reinvented by Puck, Executive Chef Lee Hefter, Chef de Cuisine Tetsu Yahagi, and Pastry Chef Sherry Yard. After being soft opened for a while, this new, leaner, meaner Spago bowed on October 1st.


We arrived a bit early for our reservation, and thus took a seat at the remodeled bar/lounge area and ordered up a troika of drinks from the new cocktail list, reportedly created with input from the culinary team. Click for a larger version.



Adios Nonino | Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Luxardo Amaretto, Aperol, Nonino Amaro
Aleeto's Way | Patron Anejo Tequila, Aperol, Lemon Juice
Samurai Sword | Yamazaki 12 Year Single Malt, Honey Syrup, Ginger, Lemon Juice
The Adios Nonino was my selection, and it showed off a lot of bittersweetness on the attack, fading to distinct notes of cherry, spice, and a heady base of booze; the overall effect was somewhat medicinal, almost Tussin-y in nature. Aleeto's Way was our favorite of the trio, with a surprisingly complex, fruity sweetness that paired beautifully with the tequila. Last up was the Samurai Sword, the most bracing of the group, with a marked citrus-y nose leading to a deft interplay between the lemon and the honey, all tempered by the astringency of the Yamazaki.


Veal Filet Mignon Tartar, Smoked Mascarpone [$16.00]
The restaurant was running late with reservations by this time, so Spago GM Tracey Spillane brought out some food and a complementary round of drinks, a very nice gesture on her part. We each received our own veal tartar, a welcomed sight as the dish was one of the ones that we'd planned on ordering anyway. It was lovely, with a refined, delicate weightiness from the ground veal that was beautifully contrasted against the smokiness of the mascarpone. The herb and crispy shallot salad, meanwhile, served as a fitting counterpoint to the meat, and I appreciated the tangy side of mustard as well.



Help! Save The Bees | Ketel One Citroen Vodka, Luxardo Limoncello, Thyme & Lavender Honey, Lemon Juice
Pepino's Revenge | Patron Silver Tequila, Japanese Cucumber, Basil, Lime Juice
Duke Of Earl | Earl Grey Tea Infused Gin, Lemon Juice
Tainted Love | Tanqueray No. 10 Gin, Campari, St-Germain, Lemon Juice
Our second round of cocktails brought out a foursome. The Help! Save The Bees was one of my favorites: eminently balanced, with a great interplay between the citrus and honey aspects of the drink. Pepino's Revenge, meanwhile, was surprisingly sweet, with a slightly herbaceous tang that worked well enough with the Patrón. I quite enjoyed the Duke Of Earl as well, which display a deliciously floral, tea-like essence that one of my dining companions likened to a frothy, "adult" Lipton. Last up was the Tainted Love, which I found competent but forgettable, the least interesting of the set.


At this point, our table became ready and we moved into the main dining room. Compared to what occupied the space previously, the new Spago is quite a change. The dining room's much lighter, sleeker, distinctly more contemporary, set in subtle shades of gray and white, anchored now by a gleaming 7,000-bottle wine cellar (stocked by Sommelier Christopher Miller). The restaurant's legendary patio, meanwhile, has gotten a bit more lounge-y, and now sports a retractable roof for all-weather dining. In addition, there's also new artwork, two new fireplaces, and a reworked private dining room.


As far as Spago's new menu goes, there's a definite emphasis on smaller courses meant for sharing (though there are several large format plates, too), and diners are encouraged to create a "progressive tasting menu" of sorts. Click for a larger version.


Serving as an amuse bouche were spoons of brandade, paired with a tomato coulis and topped with a bit of fried parsley. Here, the saltiness of the cod was nicely conveyed, set off against the tart, tangy tomato purée.


Sherry Yard has put together a new bread basket, and it's quite something, some of the tastiest bread I'd had in a while in fact. We had here a pain de campagne-style sourdough miche bread with rye and spelt, lavash crackers (replete with caraway, poppy, and pumpkin seeds), and Chinese-style buns laced with chives, scallions, and sesame oil (my favorite). Olive oil was provided, and butter arrived in two forms: Wisconsin and an amazing nori seaweed infused version.

Upon being seated, we quickly requested a bottle of white Burg, specifically the 2008 Domaine Bernard Moreau & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes [$135] (which I forgot to snap a photo of unfortunately). This one was fairly prototypical for the style, with a lemon-y, subtly nutty essence intermixed with a slightly funky woodiness and tight minerality.


Kampachi Ceviche, Espelette, Purslane [$17.00]
A ceviche came out looking more like a tiradito, but was delicious nonetheless. The fish itself was on point, fresh and supple, with a good bite. I loved the ginger-y kick of the dish, and how that led to the tanginess of the purslane and a bit of creeping heat on the finish. Very nice.


French Langoustine, Matsutake, Petite Green Salad [$19.00]
Langoustine was snappy and briny, with the earthiness of the paired matsutakes working surprisingly well here. However, the dish lacked a bit of cohesiveness, and needed an integrating element to better tie all the flavors together.


Coastal Organic Farm's Heirloom Tomato Salad [$17.00]
The kitchen actually sent out their version of the ubiquitous heirloom tomato salad by mistake, but we had no issue consuming it. The tomatoes themselves were sweet and juicy, but the crux of the dish was clearly the included sorbet of olive oil, which lent an overarching richness and complexity to the dish that took it up a notch.


Sautéed Fanny Bay Oysters, Curry, Cucumber Relish [$14.00]
These Fanny Bays were some of the tastiest cooked oysters I've had, showing off a distinctly Indian flair, with the curry working flawlessly with the natural salinity of the bivalves, all while the cucumber served as a light, bright counterpoint. You could almost think of these as oyster pakoras.


Chirashi Sushi, Blue Fin Tuna, Hamachi, Salmon Pearls, Uni [$21.00]
Spago's reimagined chirashizushi brought together three of the most iconic cuts of sashimi. The yellowtail and tuna were both spot on, and went superbly with the dabs of tangy dressing included and a squirt of sudachi, but the sea urchin was somewhat bitter, and lacking in the lush, sweet creaminess that I was hoping for. Fortunately though, the dish's base of rice formed a fitting complement to the seafood, and I appreciated the bright bursts of salinity from the ikura as well.


The kitchen now sent out a complementary off-menu special of skate--dressed in homemade sambal and wrapped in bamboo leaf--which might've been the tastiest preparation of the fish that I've ever had. I loved its tender, mild disposition, deftly amped up a notch by the spicy chili condiment and fragrant herbs--a beautiful expression of Southeast Asian flavors.


A plate of shima aji was yet another special treat. Served with a ceviche-inspired sauce, the gorgeously-textured amberjack was just what I wanted, and went swimmingly with its piquant dressing.


Chicken "Noodle" Soup, Chili, Basil, Shaved Young Onions [$14.00]
The chicken "noodle" soup was not what I expected. Instead of the classic dish, we were instead brought xiaolongbao, the tastiest presentation of the soup dumpling I'd had since Benu. The dumplings were filled with a chicken broth gel, then set in a steaming chicken broth laced with cilantro and ginger. The end result was marvelous, with the bird conveying a rather profound depth of flavor that was beautifully played against the spicy, herb-y notes in the dish. I wanted a bigger bowl of the stuff!


Up next was another gift: a Fujian style fried rice with crab and lobster, all wrapped up in an egg blanket. The use of what I believe was lap cheong imparted a fantastic sweet, savory spice to the hearty dish, while the topping of cilantro provided a great lightness to things. The seafood was also nicely presented here, and I even appreciated the fluffy layer of egg, which served to moderate the dish. Yum.


The kitchen then sent out a Hong Kong-style preparation of spot prawn (they also have a whole lobster done in similar fashion on the menu). I loved the crispness of the shrimp here, as well as how its natural sweetness and salinity were paired against the very Chinese-y flavors of its various accoutrements. Utterly tasty, and a great expression of familiar nuances.


At this point we ordered up a bottle of red Burgundy: the 2005 Méo-Camuzet Frère et Sœurs Marsannay [$120]. It was quite lovely, with a blend of cherry-laced and spicy flavors, all with a focused acidity and considerable weight to it.


Uova da Raviolo "Carbonara", Smoked Bacon [$16.00]
A carbonara inspired raviolo was hearty and heavy, with the lushness of the egg and cheese combo melding well with the crisp, salty bits of bacon. We're talking about traditional flavors here, presented in a slightly modified form.


Aonori Soba Pasta, Dungeness Crab [$23.00]
A definite high point of the meal consisted of the house-made buckwheat noodles. The soba was spot on in terms of consistency, and I loved how it paired with the ocean-y, umami-laden aonori seaweed and katsuobushi. The sweetness of the crab was also deftly conveyed here, while the scallions provided a perfect touch of zestiness to things. Overall, a flawless mélange of disparate flavors that's probably the best soba dish that I've ever eaten.


Sweet White Summer Corn Agnolotti, Parmigiano Reggiano [$14.00]
Spago is well-known for its seasonally-changing preparations of agnolotti, so we weren't surprised to see the pasta on the menu tonight. The dish was classic, with the soft, pillow-y pouches putting forth a very apparent sweetness from the corn, all moderated by the salty sauce of Reggiano.


Black Sea Bass, Crisp Scale, Littleneck Clams, Leek Puree [$28.00]
Spago's black sea bass was an enviable rendition of the fish. Tender and supple, the bass had a really satisfying salinity to it that was keenly highlighted by its crisp, salty skin, and I quite appreciated the further brine imparted by the clams. Lovely contrast from the leeks, too.


Bacon Wrapped Monkfish "Yabba Dabba Doo" [$19.00]
Texturally, the monkfish wasn't quite what we were hoping for, but the flavor was there: hearty and satisfying, and adeptly enhanced by the fish's savory wrapper of bacon. The veggie-based "bone" was an interesting addition, providing a certain lightness and crunch to the dish.


Santa Barbara Spot Prawns, Matsutake, Nori Butter [$32.00]
The spot prawns made a second appearance in this dish, though here the ingredient didn't reach the levels of the Hong Kong-inspired preparation. They were actually overly cooked for my tastes, so texturally, things were a bit off, though I did appreciate the enveloping richness of the nori butter.


Wild King Salmon, Romesco Vinaigrette, Grilled Romaine Hearts, Anchovies [$28.00]
The salmon, also, was one of the weaker courses of the night. The fish conveyed a healthy brine, one augmented by the use of anchovies, but veered toward the dry side. I did appreciate the crisp, salty shards of skin here though, and positively adored the lively, crunchy hearts of romaine lettuce.


To pair with our final run of savory courses was a half bottle of Rhône wine with a bit more age: the 1987 E. Guigal Hermitage [$82]. This one tasted very mature, but still pretty fresh, with an amalgam of smoky, spicy, earthy flavors intermingled with flashes of dark fruit.


Pee-wee Potatoes, Spicy Tomato Sauce "Brava" [$12.00]
We ordered a couple of sides to pair with our heartier courses. First was a bowl of wrinkly, subtly salty potatoes that reminded me of papas arrugadas. Instead of mojo though, these were paired with a rich, creamy dressing and a tangy sauce ostensibly inspired by the one used in patatas bravas.


Roasted Brussels Sprouts, Shiro Miso-Maple Mustard [$12.00]
Brussels sprouts are one of my favorite veggies, and the preparation here was quite to my liking. The sprouts were wonderfully crisp, as well as beautifully bitter, with a bright astringency that was deftly accompanied by a hint of char. Smart move on incorporating chips of puffed rice, too.


Colorado Lamb Chops, Moroccan Spices, Charred Eggplant, Labneh [$34.00]
Lamb, meanwhile, was very nice. Its flavor was spot on: intense and with a great depth, uniquely ovine but not overtly gamy, with a lovely char bitterness to boot. The meat was delicious alone, but I also appreciated the levity provided by the drizzle of mint, as well as the slightly lactic tartness of the labneh.


Creek Stone Farm's 28 Days Dry Aged New York Steak, Matsutake "Gohan" [$39.00]
The strip steak was certainly on point, and wouldn't be out of place at a top-notch steakhouse. The New York conveyed a mouth-watering beefiness and satisfying bite, with a fantastic smokiness and hint of pepper as well. Interestingly, I liked it even better with a squeeze of the paired sudachi, which added a very sharp, very focused sourness to the mix that really worked. In addition, I also loved the accompanying gohan rice, which showed off some great nuances from the matsutake and did a wonderful job balancing out the heft of the meat.


Jidori Chicken Breast & Leg Pastrami, Rye Crisp [$24.00]
We concluded the savory section of our meal with some gorgeous jidori chicken, which comes to Spago courtesy of famed bird man Dennis Mao. I started with the breast meat, and it was pretty stupendous: moist, tender, and uncompromisingly flavorful, with a great salty accent from the skin. The leg, meanwhile, was even more in-your-face when it came to taste, and conveyed a delectable touch of pastrami-inspired spice. A mustard-based sauce accompanied the bird, but one had to be careful with it, lest it overwhelm the delicateness of the chicken.


Spago's dessert menu has been totally revamped by longtime pastry chef Sherry Yard, and now features a distinctly more modern aesthetic to it. Click for a larger version.


Taking on dessert wine duties this evening was the 2008 Alois Kracher Weinlaubenhof Beerenauslese [$72]. I found it pretty delectable, with a botrytized character redolent of sweet fruit and honey, accented by a touch of spiciness and good acidity.


Blackberries, Mango, Currants [$14.00] | Cassis Sorbet, Earl Grey Tea Essence, Arlette Wafer Cookies
Our first dessert was relatively simple in presentation, with the tart berry fruits on the forefront, augmented by the considerable intensity of the blackcurrant sorbet. At the same time, the earl grey added a great whisper of aromatics to the dish, and I appreciated the counterbalancing effect of the arlette cookies as well.


Passion, Pineapple, Mango [$14.00] | Rum Baba Boules, Passion Fruit Frozen Kumo, Oven Roasted Pineapples
Up next was a sort of reworked baba au rhum, one that expertly blended the tangy sweetness of the various fruits against the hefty, sugary baba boules, all while the use of "pop rocks" lent a whimsical touch to the dish.


Bartlett Pear, Black Mission Figs [$14.00] | Caramel Bourbon Pain Perdu, Vanilla and Maple Roasted Pear, 50 Bean Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream
Yard's pain perdu dessert was enjoyable as well, with the hefty, caramel- and bourbon-enhanced French toast serving as a lovely base to the dish, playing off of the vanilla ice cream perfectly, all while the pears and figs added a ripe, weighty sugariness to things.


Black Bowl [$14.00] | Chocolate Crumble Parfait, Cardamom Glace, Espresso Air, Chocolate Brulee Cookie
The interestingly-named Black Bowl was my favorite of Spago's new desserts. I adored the various textures incorporated into the course, and the flavors were simultaneously complex, yet straightforward and flawlessly integrated, the sweetness of the chocolate bound by the slightly astringent espresso and spiciness of the cardamom. In terms of desserts, this is the one to get.


Rock, Pebble, Chocolate [$14.00] | Almond Cream, Warm Truffles, Cool Truffles, Bon Bons
Our final dessert, meanwhile, wins when it comes to plating and presentation, as I loved the abstraction of truffles and bonbons as pebbles and rocks. Taste-wise, things were more direct, with the sweet-but-bitter quality of the chocolate counterbalancing the marked fruity character in the dish. Lovely textures, too.

It wasn't a perfect meal--forgivable given the newness of it all--but I think we were all pleasantly surprised by the new Spago. Previously, I never had the chance to venture into the restaurant's à la carte selections, and as such, I can't field any direct comparisons with Spago's old menu, but from what I've seen and heard of it, what the kitchen's sending out currently seems like an improvement. The cooking was certainly more modern, but at the same time, not all that modern, and mostly quite delicious. There's still that sort of old-school Spago essence imbued in the food, a blending of Californian and Asian aesthetics that just seems right for the restaurant. Puck and company have taught an old dog new tricks, so to speak, seemingly succeeding in revamping both the environs and the menu, and I really do look forward to coming back for a proper tasting menu sometime.

Renu Nakorn Restaurant
13019 Rosecrans Ave, Norwalk, CA 90650
562.921.2124
www.yelp.com/biz/renu-nakorn-restaurant-norwalk-2 (Yelp, restaurant has no web site)
Sat 10/13/2012, 8:40p-09:50p





Given my recent visit to Las Vegas' famed Lotus of Siam, I figured that it would be a good opportunity now to report on Renu Nakorn, Saipin and Bill Chutima's first restaurant (which I've been ordering take-out from for some time). Named after the Renu Nakhon district of northeastern Thailand, the place was originally opened way back in 1985 by one Luxkana Sreewarom. It achieved a modicum of popularity in the early 1990's when it became highly touted by a young Jonathan Gold. In November 1994, the Chutimas took over Renu Nakorn, revising and expanding the menu (even adding an entire Northern section), upping the restaurant's acclaim even further. Four years later, Mr. Gold deemed it the best Thai restaurant in the country.

In October 1999, however, Bill and Saipin sold the business to friends Pharchumporn Shonkeaw and Umpa Sripetwannadee (who are also involved with Taco Joe next door), a husband-and-wife team who'd previously worked at Renu and were intimately familiar with the place (though the Chutimas did stay on board for a while as advisors). Under new management, Renu Nakorn did a commendable job in continuing the legacy that the previous owners had established, but the restaurant shuttered abruptly in the summer of 2006 after the strip mall it was housed in was razed and remodeled. Eventually though, Renu did reopen in the middle of 2008 after a two year hiatus, and has been humming along ever since.


Inside the post-renovation space, things are pretty nice, making Renu one of the tidier Thai places that I've been to.



As was the case with Lotus of Siam, Renu Nakorn's menu is vast, meaning that you really have to know what to order. As such, stay away from the usual stuff and venture into the Northern section and the Issan-oriented "Specials." Unfortunately, there's not much to talk about as far as beverages go, so you'd be wise to bring your own wine (corkage is $10). Click for larger versions.


Speaking of wine, we began with the 2010 Philipps Eckstein Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett from Germany's Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region. It was a tasty, straightforward example of the style, with an uncomplicated, fruity, honeyed sweetness offset by just a bit of minerality and acidity.


Nam-Prik-Noom (Green chili dip) [$7.59] | Roasted green chili, garlic, onion and tomato pounded in mortar. One of the most popular dip of Northern Thailand, eaten with sticky rice, fried pork skin and fresh vegetable.
Kicking things off was Renu's take on nam phrik num, a type of roasted green chili dip typical of Northern Thailand. It was probably the spiciest dish of the night, with a wonderful, growing, multifaceted heat that was deftly balanced by the application of the various veggies. A bit of pain and pleasure on this one--hurts so good.


Renu Nakorn Sausage [$7.59] | Grilled sour rice sausage, served with fresh chili, ginger & peanut.
Sausage was a must given my predilection for the tubed meat. We initially requested sai uah, but the kitchen was fresh out, so sai krok Isan it was instead. This was a sour fermented pork and rice varietal, conveying a delectable savoriness up front, which then led gracefully to a tingling tartness. At the same time, I appreciated the light snap of the casing, as well as the char character imparted by grilling. The sausage was delicious alone, but even better when combined in one bite with its various accoutrements (ginger, red onion, cabbage, peanut), making for a flawless mix of counterbalancing tastes and textures.


Nam Kao Tod [$8.95] | Minced Issan sausage mixed with green onion, fresh chili, ginger, peanuts, crispy rice and lime juice.
Next up was a Laotian-inspired course that was one of my favorites at LoS. It's a dish of toasted rice topped with a mix of ingredients, and the resulting amalgam of disparate flavors and consistencies was much to my liking. I loved its interplay of savory, spicy, and sour flavors, all tempered by the wonderfully crisp bits of rice, tangy onion, and cilantro, while the cucumber and lettuce added a touch of levity to things. This is one of Renu Nakorn's most oft recommended dishes, and with good reason.


With the wine dispensed with, we moved on to beer, specifically a bottle of homebrew stuff made by none other than former Providence pastry chef Adrian Vasquez (gifted to me by Michael Cimarusti at the last 5x5 dinner). I've had mixed results with homemade beers, but this one was actually pretty delicious: really well-balanced, with a restrained maltiness and slightly citric notes up front, leading to a countervailing bitterness that lingered on. I wish I remembered what this was!


Northern Larb [$7.59] | A completely difference from the Is-san larb in taste, this Northern style larb (ground pork) is cooked with Northern Thai spices and no lime juice. Garnish with fresh herb and vegetable.
Larb is one of my staples of the cuisine, something that I tend to order from whichever Thai restaurant I happen upon. What we have here, though, is the Northern example of the dish, which is distinct from the usual Isan/Laotian preparations in that lime juice and fish sauce are replaced by a bevy of spices. The result is a very different dish, one that showed off a great depth, with a wonderful jolt from the spices that grew in intensity and complexity on the palate, all moderated by some lovely herb-y overtones.


Nua Yum Katiem [$9.59] | Charbroiled spicy beef topped with fresh garlic and spicy sauce.
Here we had slices of marinated, chargrilled beef on a bed of shredded cabbage, topped with garlic and bird's eye chili. The meat was actually surprisingly tender, showing off a nice beefiness enhanced by the dish's piquant, spicy dressing. The key for me here was the garlic, which added an intense, enveloping pungency to the dish that did an admirably job in tying everything together.


Koi Soy [$7.95] | Minced beef with Thai herb, fresh chili, rice powder, served raw or medium.
We closed with what basically amounted to a Thai beef tartar. The meat itself was on point, with a satisfying bite and springiness, and formed a great base to the dish. I loved the sheer potency of the course, an in-your-face smack of spicy, herbaceous, and acidic flavors--tempered only slightly by the rice powder--that paired beautifully with the beef. Delish.

Based off my experiences here and at Lotus of Siam, it seems to me that the two are fairly comparable, with relatively slight differences between equivalent dishes. In general, I do believe that the food here is perhaps a bit more aggressive, a bit more raw vis-à-vis the Vegas restaurant, quite possibly due to the latter's more "touristy" status. If only Renu had Lotus' impeccable wine list! In the end, I think you'll be fine at either place, assuming you know what to order (hint: it's not the pad Thai).

Guy Savoy at Caesars Palace
3570 Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89109
702.731.7110
www.caesarspalace.com/casinos/caesars-palace/restaurants-dining/restaurant-guy-savoy-detail.html
Thu 09/20/2012, 8:00p-11:55p



Ever since debuting in May 2006 with Executive Chef Damien Dulas at the helm, Guy Savoy has remained near the top of the heap when it comes to Las Vegas dining. Dulas, however, was supplanted by Eric Bost two years later in 2008, and it was with him that I experienced my first two, glorious, meals here. Given his expertise, Bost was tapped by Monsieur Savoy himself to open another outpost of his eponymous restaurant at the Marina Bay Sands in Singapore. As such, he left Las Vegas in the middle of 2010, replaced by his former sous Hugo Coudurier. Coudurier held down the fort for a while, but decamped early last year. Stepping up to the plate was his former Chef de Cuisine Mathieu Chartron, who now runs the show around here.

About the Chef: Unsurprisingly, Chartron hails from France, specifically Saint-Donat-sur-l'Herbasse, a small town located about an hour south of Lyon. Growing up, his family owned a truffle-centric haute cuisine restaurant called Chartron, which still operates to this day. Father Bruno is the Chef, while mother Veronique runs the front-of-the-house. The family even owns its own truffle farm. Following completion of culinary school in Grenoble, Chartron relocated to Paris and found employment at the Michelin three-star Le Meurice under Yannick Alléno, then transitioned to the original Guy Savoy restaurant. He was only 19 years old at the time. There, he worked his way rapidly through the kitchen's various positions, and after a year, M. Savoy asked him to go to Vegas. Chartron began cooking in the desert in September 2008, and quickly rose up the ranks, becoming the youngest head chef on The Strip following Hugo Coudurier's departure. He's supported by his Chef de Cuisine Alain, who was running the kitchen on this particular evening.

The kitchen isn't the only place where things have been in flux, however. Back in October 2010, somewhat worryingly, Guy Savoy's son Franck left his post as GM to take the position of Director of Food and Beverage for Caesars Palace. Then, this past March, he and his wife Leigh Greenfield (herself the local rep for Urbani Truffles) departed to New York, where Franck took over the F&B program for The Four Seasons (the former home of L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, which closed at the end of June). He has since been replaced by Alain Alpe, a former Captain who's been at the restaurant since day one.


Inside, things remain much as they have been before. The space was penned by designer Jean-Michel Wilmotte, who also did the original Rue Troyon location. It's a serious, sleek, almost stark room, anchored by the towering slatted doors of dark wood and set off by colorful contemporary arts pieces. Around six dozen diners are accommodated in the main dining area shown above, as well as in three semi-private rooms (where our party of seven was seated), the pricey Krug Room, and a chef's table in the kitchen seating six.


There's been quite a change to Guy Savoy's menu. The Menu Elegance and "Bites and Bubbles" have been nixed, while the Menu Prestige has been rechristened the Signature Menu, with a lower price to boot at $258pp. The former TGV menu has transformed into the $120 Pre-Theatre menu, and of course, there's also the option of the über-expensive Krug Menu ($750 per head, mostly due to the bubbly). However, we were here strictly for the new Innovation-Inspiration Menu, a 13-course degustation of novel dishes priced at $348 a head, with an additional $175 for wine pairings from Sommelier Phil Park. Click for a larger version.




1: Amuse Bouche
We commenced with a quintet of amuses. The first was a "French Club Sandwich" containing foie gras, sea salt, and a black truffle vinaigrette, all on a tiny triangle of French country bread. It was lovely, with the crisp toast moderating a quintessential expression of the liver. The fluffy Parmesan waffle, meanwhile, was also quite tasty, with a delectable cheesy character and a slight sweetness, all intermingled with a mignonette of black pepper. The "Petite Burger" with mustard and Parmesan was even better, with the mustard providing a delightful tanginess that offset the lingering beefiness of the "patty." Next was a tomato fougasse, a type of bread with a slight tomato tartness that recalled the taste of pizza! Finally, we enjoyed a demitasse of M. Savoy's famed artichoke soup with Parmesan and black truffle, served with a mushroom brioche. It was as good as you'd expect: a hearty, heady explosion of classic truffle goodness beautifully complemented by its accompanying bread--very satisfying.


Speaking of bread, the restaurant provided no less than a dozen varieties for us to choose from: plain, caramelized onion, and seaweed ciabattas; pain de campagne; olive bread; lemon bread; basil bread; multigrain; baguette; plain and poppy seed baguettines; mustard seed bread; and Parmesan and bacon-sea salt pain au laits. Given the over-the-top nature of the cart, we opted for a bread pairing from "bread sommelier"-slash-server Andre, whom I recognized from my first visit here three years ago.


2: "Concassé" of Oysters, Seaweed, Lemon Granité | « Concassé » d'Huître, Granite Algues et Citron
Alphonse Mellot, La Moussière, Sancerre, 2010
Our first course proper brought out a singular oyster, on top of which a spoonful of scallion, lemon, and seaweed-lemon granita was placed. The effect was pretty amazing, with the initial, bracing brine of the oyster transitioning beautifully to tart notes of lemon, while the finish was imbued once again with more salinity, but this time augmented by the ocean-y taste of the seaweed. Superbly well integrated, with a fantastic interplay of flavors.


3: Santa Barbara Spot Prawn "Caught" in Sweet and Sour Fishnet | Santa Barbara Spot Prawn et Navet en « Filet »
Eiko Fuji, Glorious Mt. Fuji, Yamagata, Namazake, Junmai Ginjo
Santa Barbara spot prawn arrived in flawless fashion, snappy and satisfying in texture, with a delicate brininess that paired surprisingly well with the sweet 'n' sour nature of the pepper gelée. At the same time, I enjoyed the crunch and levity imparted by the pickled turnip "net" (I'm curious as to how they achieved that effect), as well as the carrots and turnips on the side. In addition, I especially appreciated the pairing of sake here, as it had a certain sweetness that melded beautifully with similar notes in the dish.


4: Fingerling Potato "Rocks", Caviar, Smoked Sabayon | Pomme de Terre « Gallet », Caviar, l'Œuf en Sabayon Fumé
Laurent-Perrier, Tours-sur-Marne, 2002
Up next was perhaps my favorite course of the evening. We had "rocks" of fingerling potatoes covered in edible clay, joined by golden osetra caviar, caviar vinaigrette, squid ink, sponge cake, a dollop of smoked sabayon, and a nest of potato. The potatoes themselves were expectedly mild, yet gorgeously augmented by the creamy, eggy sabayon, intermixed with pricks of saltiness from the sturgeon roe. It was a classic combination of flavors, faultlessly reinvented. Wonderful Champagne here as well, with its substantial weight that really stood up to the course.


5: Salmon Iceberg | Saumon « Iceberg »
Domaine Billaud-Simon, Vaillon, Chablis, 2009
In preparation for this course, we were each handed a tiny chunk of raw salmon to sample and form a baseline for texture and taste. Then, our server proceeded to "cook" larger portions of the fish on a slab of dry ice tableside, then served it on some rather hot plates, thus "cooking" the salmon once more. Accoutrements included blocks of chervil gelée, lemon, lime, finger lime, and bok choy, all set in a vegetable-based broth. The end result was quite something. I adored the hot-cold temperature contrast, which also resulted in a gradient of texture throughout the fish, as well as how the salinity inherent was balanced by the distinctly citric notes present. The bok choy, meanwhile, provided a fitting counterpoint to things, and the wine pairing was superb as well, with the lemony notes in the Chablis playing off the dish in commendable fashion.


6: Lobster and Peaches, Chanterelles and Warm Gelée | Homard aux Pêches, Girolles et Gelée Tiède
Yves Cuilleron, Viognier, Collines Rhodaniennes, 2010
Lobster tail and lobster claw were joined by a disk of peach blancmange (which hid a "surprise" of even more diced lobster), white peach, chanterelle, almond slivers, and dollops of warm lobster gelée. The homard itself I found pretty flawless, with both parts showing off some wonderful textures, as well as the crustacean's natural brine. I was actually a bit concerned at first about the use of peach here, afraid that its sugariness would overwhelm the dish, but it actually functioned surprisingly well, accenting the inherent sweetness of the lobster admirably.


7: Seared Dices of Foie Gras with Horseradish, "Braised-Grilled" Celery Stalk Serpentines, Potato Chips Bouillon | Dés de Foie Gras de Canard Poêlés au Raifort, Serpentins de Céleri « Braisé et Grillés », Bouillon de Chips de Pommes de Terre
Domaine Gauby, Les Calcinaires, VdP des Côtes Catalanes, 2003
Another highlight of the meal for me was the foie gras. The cubes really did a great job displaying the classically rich, decadent nature of the liver, and I loved the bitterness imparted by the touch of char here. The crux, though, was the use of potato, which was sheer genius, lending an earthy, tempering element to the dish that contrasted the foie in stellar fashion. Similarly, the celery (which I usually don't care for) also offered up a bright, bracing counterpoint to the liver, and I appreciated its crunchiness as well. One of the best preparations of foie that I've had all year.


8: Smoked Roasted Duck, Citrus and Star Anise Flavor | Canard Rôti et Fumé, Parfum d'Agrumes et Anis
Féraud-Brunel, Châteauneuf-Du-Pape, 2009
The duck was beautifully presented tableside, but unfortunately, was my least favorite dish tonight. I found the bird rather tough in consistency, though it did have a wonderfully savory, fatty skin, and its flavor was spot on--rich and hearty, and keenly accented by the spicy notes of star anise. The carrot purée, though, was too overtly sweet for me, and it actually served to distract me from the otherwise pleasant flavors at play.


9: Wagyu, Cannellini Bean Purée, Saffron and Marjoram Crust, Sponge Cake | Wagyu, Coco en Purée, Croûte de Safran et Marjolaine, « Sponge Cake »
Leviathan, California, 2009
Australian wagyu (they're getting the real deal Japanese beef soon, now that the ban is lifted) formed our final savory course of the evening. The meat was pretty much spot on, really just teeming with all the bovine goodness that you'd expect. It easily stood alone on its own merits, but I also appreciated the subtly sweet, herbaceous crust of marjoram. My favorite element here, though, was that fantastic cannellini bean purée, which showed off an amazingly earthy, heady, profound depth of flavor that complemented the beef marvelously--I could've eaten a whole bowl of the stuff. Rounding things out were bits of fluffy sponge cake, which reminded me of the various preparations of microwave aerated brioche that I'd had before.


10: Mousse de Comté
Domaine J.-M. Boillot, Macherelles, Chassagne-Montrachet, 2010
Bridging the gap between savory and sweet was this excellent cheese course. Comté was turned into an uncommonly light, airy, ethereal mousse, which conveyed the full flavor and tang of the cheese, but without its substantial heft. Croutons, walnuts, and mustard greens were provided as counterpoints to the fromage, with the salty kick of the crouton working especially well.


11: "Sunny Side Up" | « l'Œuf au Plat »
Charles Hours, Uroulat, Jurançon, 2010
Playing the role of a sunny side up egg was a "yolk" of mango purée, set in a "white" of Greek yogurt (labneh I assume), all with a dash of cracked pepper and served with a side of French toast. It was a fun little dessert, with the unabashed sugariness of the mango duly offset by the sour, lactic tartness inherent in the yoghurt, while the toast served to ground the dish. Humorously, one of my dining companions actually mistook this for an actual sunny side up egg initially.


12: Raspberry | Framboise
Inniskillin, Cabernet France Icewine, Niagara Peninsula, 2009
Raspberry arrived in tapioca, gelée, mousse, and freeze-dried forms, accompanied by almond foam and an almond ice cream. The flavors here were certainly mellifluous, with the tartness of the berry integrated well with the mild, nutty notes present. It was great to experience the various facets of the framboise, and see how they interacted with the duet of almond. This was almost like a dessert version of Guy Savoy's famed "Colors of Caviar" dish that I'd had previously.


13: Chocolate | Chocolat
The requisite chocolate dessert brought us a chocolate sorbet and chocolate tuile, set atop a block of ice in a field of cacao nibs. This was as pure of an expression of chocolate as you're going to get, a super focused, decadent expression of the treat that was lush, luxurious, and on the verge of being too much.


Then came the candy cart, loaded with the following goodies: coconut macarons, caramelized bananas, blancmanges, apricot-stuffed grapes, raspberry cheesecake, raspberry-mango phyllos, fresh grape soda, pâtes de fruits, marshmallows (butterscotch, bubble gum, jasmine-root beer, creme caramel), chocolate mousse, rice pudding (French vanilla, pink praline), sorbet (raspberry, cherry), and vanilla ice cream. We tried to restrain ourselves here, but still ended up requesting pretty much one of everything.

Despite a misstep in the form of the duck, Guy Savoy delivered a strong meal, one that firmly reiterated the restaurant's place at the top of the Las Vegas dining scene. I do enjoy the Signature Menu and its parade of M. Savoy's more straightforwardly satisfying "greatest hits," but at the same time, I really do like the direction that the Innovation-Inspiration menu is heading. It's a slightly more contemporary expression of the food that the restaurant is known for, and really allows the local kitchen staff to show off a bit more. Speaking of the new staff, it appears that they're on track at the moment, continuing on the proud tradition that I initially experienced with Eric Bost. It has been said, though, that Chef Chartron will eventually return home to France to run his familial restaurant, taking home all the experiences that he's gathered here in Vegas along with him. I'm not worried, however, as, if history's any indication, the show here will go on just fine.

Red Medicine Restaurant
8400 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211
323.651.5500
www.redmedicinela.com
Sun 10/14/2012, 07:30p-10:20p





Without a doubt, one of Los Angeles' most controversial restaurant openings of the past several years has been that of Jordan Kahn's neo-Vietnamese-y canteen Red Medicine, mostly due to the whole Virbila brouhaha. It's been nearly two years since that debacle. Red Med's put the incident behind them, and hopefully, so have LA diners. Or maybe not. I get the feeling that Angelenos still harbor a bit of resentment over RM's inauspicious debut. The place doesn't get much love around here, but rather, much of its praise seems to come from visiting foodies, chefs, and other luminaries. And in fact, it was indeed a visit by Opinionated About Dining's Steve Plotnicki (who's based in New York) that got me to return to give Red Medicine another go.


As far as Red Medicine's menu goes, it retains much of the same vibe that it had before, though there's less of an emphasis on smaller plates I'd say. We ended up ordering just a couple dishes, and let the Chef decide the rest. To drink, you'd be remiss if you skipped the cocktails (which are as creative as ever), but there's a smartly-curated selection of wines as well from GM Noah Ellis if that's your thing. Click for larger versions.


#73 - Novo Fogo Silver Cachaca, Lime, Sugar [$12.00] | Muddled and served in a mason jar / 'Caipirinha'. Shake hard five times. Service method stolen from Dragos Axinte.
#75 - Germain Robin Craft Method Brandy, Calisaya, Sakuma Bros. Oolong Tea, Orange, Lemon [$11.00] | Served chilled with an orange slice and grated clove / Adam's punch, using exclusively American ingredients.
#62 - Redemption Rye 2yr, Benedictine, Lemon, Agave, Ginger Beer [$10.00] | Shaken and served long with pickled peppers and fennel fronds
Three cocktails to begin: I ordered #73, which was basically RM's excellent version of the classic caipirinha, with a great, complex balance of boozy, tart, and even slightly savory flavors. #75 was also very nice, with a lovely mix of fruity, herbal, and delicious tea-like overtones, all over a great base of brandy--yum. My favorite of the trio, though, was #62, with its slightly saccharine, almost medicinal flair, amped up by the whiskey but also beautifully counteracted by the spicy, piquant smack of the ginger beer.


SWEET CORN [$18.00] | custard, frozen uni powder, rambutan, lemongrass, chervil, young ginger
We commenced with what must be the smartest, most complex bowl of corn that I'd ever eaten. The inherent sweetness of the corn was on proud display, emboldened by the custard and keenly augmented by the lushness of the sea urchin. At the same time, the chervil jus, lemongrass, and ginger contributed a contrasting herbaceousness and spice that did a great job in moderating the sugariness of the corn, making for an eminently balanced, cohesive dish. Fantastic textures, too.


HEIRLOOM BLACK CARROTS [$15.00] | guava, purple kale, dulse, young walnut, tamarind
I'm generally not a huge fan of carrots given their considerable sweetness, but what Kahn did here was pretty neat. The key was the guava, which added a distinct, fruity, saccharine undercurrent to the dish that somehow worked perfectly against the wonderfully charred Black Knights. It was a genius move, one that was duly followed up by the rich flavor of the dulse (a type of seaweed) in concert with the slightly bitter kale.


LIVE SCALLOP [$17.00] | cured with kaffir lime, jujube, whey, verbena, raw turnip
The scallops were also commendable, their intrinsic sweet brine superbly accented by pricks of sourness from the kaffir, yet flawlessly combined with the jujube. At the same time, the whey provided a tangy, lactic temper to the course, while aromatic overtones from the verbena rounded things out. Beautifully integrated, and with a nice crunch from the turnip, too.


#35 - St. George Absinthe, Pontarlier Anis, Benedictine, Sugar, Peychaud's Bitters [$11.00] | Shaken very hard and served over crushed ice with a lemon peel / Our variation of the 'Absinthe Cocktail'.
#77 - Bols Genever, Cocchi Americano, Torley Muscat, Shiso [$13.00] | Carbonated, bottled, and served with a tall glass of ice
Round two of cocktails brought us #35, a potent drink with loads of anise flavor from the combo of St. George and Pontarlier, making for a medicinal, almost Tussin-esque experience that is definitely not for everybody--order responsibly. #77, meanwhile, was much more easy-drinking, with a delectably light, bittersweet character from the Cocchi that melded seamlessly with the sweet, juniper-tinged jenever and grassy kick of shiso.


INDIAN EGGPLANT [$16.00] | sprouted mung beans, soybean, coriander, black radish, morning glory
Eggplant was hearty and buttery, with a rich, complex taste interleaved with a nice touch of smoke. The combination of various greenery in the dish made for a bright, verdant counterpoint to the vegetable, but the incorporation of black radish into the mix was too much for me, its fiery, bracing astringency dominating the dish.


SNAP PEAS [$16.00] | raw & iced, soymilk custard, mint, coconut water, celtuce
The snap peas were another standout course, really showing off the pure, unmitigated essence of the vegetable, brightened up even further by the use of mint. The soymilk, meanwhile, served as a rich, creamy base to the dish, moderating and grounding the levity of the peas perfectly. Very well composed, and a gorgeous mishmash of disparate flavors that come together in stellar fashion.


SWEETBREADS [$28.00] | prune, leeks, mustard, chicory, smoked bone marrow, beech mushroom
Sweetbreads were unabashedly savory (almost too much so), with a considerable depth and weight duly enhanced by the smoky bone marrow and bittersweet chicory. The rich, hearty organ meat was certainly tasty alone, but the tempering effect of the mustard and leeks was key, as was, surprisingly, the saccharine nature of the prunes.


#76 - Green Chartreuse, Velvet Falernum, Pineapple, Lime [$15.00] | Served frozen with grated nutmeg and a mint sprig / Marco Dionysos' 'Chartreuse Swizzle'.
#67 - Ocho Blanco Tequila, Cucumber, Lime, Vinegar, Agave [$10.00] | Built over ice and topped with pickled cucumber, shallot, and chiles / 'Bloodless Maria'.
Our last round of cocktails started with #76, which I rather liked, with its deft interplay between the sugary falernum and the herbal, pungent nature of the Chartreuse, all finished with the fruity tartness of pineapple and a hint of sweet spice from the nutmeg. I wasn't as enamored, however, with #67. It had a good balance between the cucumber, lime, and tequila elements, but the vinegar and pickles took the drink in an overly tart direction.


LAMB [$29.00] | slow-roasted with california redwood, ripe and unripe mango, yellow roots
Moving on into some heartier dishes now, Kahn's slow-roasted lamb was excellent, supple and satisfying in consistency, with some deep, dark, spicy flavors that were smartly paired against the ripe, fruity sweetness of the mango--a perfect counterpoint to the meat. One of my dining companions even likened it to "lamb pastrami." Lovely crunch from the fried tofu chips, too.


HEIRLOOM RICE PORRIDGE + SANTA BARBARA RED UNI [$17.00 + $10.00] | egg yolk, hazelnuts, ginseng, echire butter
The porridge is one of Red Medicine's more popular items, and it's obvious why. It's a comfy, cozy dish, and easy to like. The rice, hot and hearty, formed an immensely earthy, savory, luxurious base to the dish--amped up even further by the egg yolk--and would've been enjoyable all on its own. To that, I loved the brine imparted by the sea urchin here, its sweet-saline nature duly enveloped by the porridge, but somehow still shining through. Great crunch from the use of hazelnuts as well.


WILD SANTA BARBARA SPOT PRAWNS [$110.00/MP] | cooked over hot river stones with lemongrass
Here we had our first of two large format dishes. The spot prawns were spot on (pun intended), with a gorgeous snappiness and crunch to 'em--not overdone at all--and showed off their trademark ocean-y relish admirably. The heads, meanwhile, were on point as well, with a great hint of lemongrass flavor all encased in a crunchy wrapper.


IMPERIAL WAGYU BEEF BRISKET [$80.00/MP] | braised for 36 hrs with palm sugar & fish sauce
Rounding out the savory section of dinner was this somewhat massive, impressive portion of wagyu. Not surprisingly, the brisket was a joy to eat, tender and toothsome, displaying boatloads of luscious, dark, bovine flavors, set off by a twang of sweetness and a punch of piquancy from the fish sauce. Delicious alone, the meat was even more enjoyable when consumed concurrently with the included sides of cucumber, onion, carrot, butter lettuce, and cilantro, which made for an uncompromisingly balanced, utterly integrated bite.


Given Chef Kahn's background in pastry arts, desserts are an absolute must here, and arguably the tops in the City. Click for a larger version.


COCONUT BAVAROIS [$9.00] | coffee, condensed milk, thai basil, peanut croquant
The sweet stuff started off with what has become Red Medicine's signature dessert, and for good reason. The interplay between the coconut and the coffee was something to behold, a balance of sweet and bitter flavors that led to a delightful touch of nuttiness on the finish, all under a whisper of Thai basil. Texturally, the dish was just as impressive, with the lush Bavarian cream playing off of the croquant and coffee with smashing results.


BIRCH ICE [$12.00] | almond praline, red currant, orange blossom, jasmine
I'm going to go out on a limb here and declare this the best dessert of the year, and probably among the top five I've had, ever. Yes, it was that good, and even managed to impress the likes of Saison's Joshua Skenes and Townhouse's John Shields, two of the heaviest hitting chefs out there. On my first bite, all I got was the jasmine cream and orange blossom bubbles, making for an almost soapy tasting experience that I found off-putting. However, the dessert just got better and better with each bite. The floral, aromatic nature of the jasmine-orange actually worked flawlessly against that intriguing birch ice cream, which was sheer genius, and I can't forget about the base of currant, which served as a sort of omnipresent, sugary undertone to the dish. Loved the textural element of the almond praline, too, as well as the Alinea-esque plating. This is, quite simply, Jordan Kahn at his finest, and I don't think there are too many other chefs out there who could pull off something like this.


GREEN STRAWBERRY [$11.00] | frozen cream, sorrel, elderflower, wild chervil
Up next was perhaps Kahn's homage to the classic pairing of strawberries and cream. Instead of regular strawberries however, the Chef went with the unripe varietal, which conveyed a marked sourness to them that played well off of the sweetness of the frozen cream and elderflower syrup. A dessert of bright, bracing flavors, tarted up by the sorrel and chervil--very nice.


MILK CHOCOLATE CREAM [$12.00] | in the japanese method, crispy devil's food, cucumber, buckwheat, lovage
Last up was a rather striking looking dessert, one featuring a chocolate "cage" hiding a Japanese milk chocolate ganache, among other ingredients. The chocolate melded admirably with the nutty character of the almond and buckwheat combo, while the use of cucumber, nasturtium, and lovage imparted a fantastic brightness to the course that I adored. Another strong plate from Kahn, and probably the best use of cucumber in a dessert that I'd ever experienced.

After a very rough start, things seem to be going well here, at least as far as the food is concerned. The cuisine seems to have matured somewhat, resulting in even more nuanced, multifaceted dishes that seem to be less reliant on overt Vietnamese influences. In fact, some of the plates were among the best things I've eaten all year, and I was fed flavors and combinations that I'd never quite experienced before, quite a feat given my jaded palate. After my first visit, I'd been always of the thought that Kahn's cooking was among the most ambitious in the Southland, and that rings even more true today. I get that there's a sense of arrogance and pomp to the restaurant, but I would try to look past prejudices and Red Medicine's considerable baggage and open yourself up to some of the most progressive cooking that's ever hit LA.

Amalur Project at Marcona
7368 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046
323.951.9991
www.amalurproject.com
Thu 10/25/2012, 07:00p-09:50p



Earlier this year, I paid a visit to Marcona, a haute sandwich shop opened by longtime reader Collier Ulrich. Since then, the eatery's been humming along nicely, slangin' sammies created by Chicago-based chef Matthew Moss. In July, the restaurant started hosting pop-ups, the first of which was Kenny Seliger's Trap Door Dining. Marcona has followed up with the Amalur Project, a new series from up-and-comers Sergio Perera and Steve Monnier than ran on October 24th and 25th.

About the Chefs: Sergio Lujan Perera hails from Zaragoza, a major city in the Aragon region of Spain. He grew up surrounded by a family that loved cooking, with his grandfather serving as his key inspiration in the kitchen. He began really learning the art of classic Spanish cookery when he was 12 years old, and by age 17, was already making his way around some of the most popular places in Saragossa. From there, Perera moved to Barcelona, but grew a bit restless cooking the same traditional dishes over and over again. As such, he relocated to San Sebastián and secured a stage at the legendary Arzak, Juan Mari Arzak's vaunted temple of New Basque Cuisine. It was here where he experienced his turning point, completely reevaluating and reinvigorating his culinary aesthetic. He stayed at Arzak for three years, then moved to Japan with a friend he'd met there. In Kyoto, he worked at the friend's family's Minokichi Takesigero, a longstanding kaiseki restaurant, and also cooked at the famous Kitcho.

After two years in Japan, Perera returned to San Sebastián with an enlightened point of view, and secured employment at Andoni Aduriz's well-regarded Mugaritz. He would work there for three years before moving to the United States, first landing in New York. There, Perera spent two years at Jean Georges, and also cooked at wd~50 and Momofuku. The Chef then relocated to Los Angeles, working alongside Greg Bernhardt (opening chef of Church & State and former Grace CdC) and the inimitable Ludovic Lefebvre. During this period, he also collaborated with the Adrià brothers at El Bulli, Tickets, as well as 41 Degrees. Currently, Perera is private cheffing and planning the opening of his first solo project.

Steve Monnier, for his part, comes from Reims, a city in the Marne department of France oft recognized for its Champagne production. He was also raised in a family that was largely centered around the kitchen, and after finishing up school in his hometown, quickly made his way to the south of France. In Cannes, Monnier worked at Hôtel Martinez's Le Palme d'Or under Chef Christian Willer, focusing on Mediterranean cuisine. He eventually moved to Paris, finding employment at Alain Dutournier's two-star, Basque-influenced Carré des Feuillants. From there, Monnier transitioned to Restaurant Le Laurent under Philippe Braun, and then to the well-known Taillevent under Michel del Burgo. In 2002, he moved to Southern California, and spent time at Jean Francois Meteigner's La Cachette, Serge Bonnet's Cafe Provencal in Thousand Oaks, and the grand dame of French dining here in LA, L'Orangerie (under Exec Chef Christophe Bellanca), among other places. Since then, Monnier's been working as a private chef, and recently completed a stage at René Redzepi's world-renowned Noma.


And here we see Amalur Project's debut menu, featuring eight courses for a not-unreasonable $69 per head (there was also a vegetarian option at the same price point). To drink, think strictly BYOB. Click for a larger version.


To take full advantage of the BYO policy (and to pick up my copy of the new LudoBites cookbook), I stopped by local wine purveyor Domaine LA on my way over. I handed Brunellos Have More Fun's Whitney Adams a copy of the evening's menu, and she in turn suggested a trio of bottles to pair with the food. The first was the 2009 Château du Hureau Saumur "Rosanna", a sparkling Cabernet Franc-based rosé from the Loire Valley. Server Michael Nemcik (whom you may recall from the last LudoBites) popped the bottle soon after I arrived, and we both really enjoyed the wine. Think bright, fun, and refreshing, with a somewhat fruity/floral character balanced by a certain crisp dryness and minerality. Delicious alone, and lovely with the lighter courses to follow.


Amuse Bouche: Compressed Asian Pear | Herbs, Burnt Orange, Cinnamon
Our amuse bouche comprised two perfectly chiseled cuts of Asian pear: dense, crisp, and bursting with bright, juicy sweetness, yet accentuated by the smoky, spicy, lingering notes from the orange liqueur. A very smart, very neat way to start the meal.


Nemcik was also offering up a special non-alcoholic libation this evening, his straightforwardly-named Sparkling Pear Soda [$4], a blend of puréed Bosc pear, cinnamon, allspice, clove, Madagascar vanilla, an orange peel-ginger simple syrup, French lemon juice, and sparkling water. Unsurprisingly, I found it rather delicious and very nicely balanced, with a great interplay between the sugary fruit and the aromatic spices incorporated in the drink. Loved the gritty consistency of the pear, too.


1: Smoked Grissini | Goat Butter
The chefs' breadsticks were superb as well, smoky and savory in nature with hints of rosemary intertwined. They were certainly tasty alone, but even better when paired with a dab of that mouth-wateringly salty butter.


An off-menu dish featuring carrots then arrived. The sweetness of the root veggie was deftly tempered here by the included yogurt foam, while a drizzle of what I believe was olive oil added depth and gravity to the dish. I also appreciated the crunch and bitterness imparted by the radishes. Overall, just a masterful presentation of carrot, with some amazing colors to boot.


2: Oysters | Warm Potato Espuma, Truffle Caviar, Beet Vinegar, Passionfruit
Oysters arrived in two forms. The first featured warm potato cream and truffle, with the huître pairing swimmingly with the classic flavors at play, the truffle adding an exclamation point to the richness of the espuma. The beet-focused variation was surprisingly effective, with the sugary tartness of the beet and passion fruit combo melding smartly with the sweet salinity the oyster, all with a touch of overarching spice.


3: Edible Garden | Rye Bread, Horseradish Cream, Vinegar Powder
Here we had Amalur's ode to the now-ubiquitous garden-inspired dish, with carrots and cauliflower set in horseradish cream and rye crumbs. I really liked the pure, unmitigated expression of the vegetables here, their light, refreshing crunch keenly set off against the enveloping tang of the horseradish. The crux, though, was the use of rye, which lent an earthy, bitter, crunchy base to the dish that did a commendable job in tying all the various elements together.


The kitchen sent out another bonus course, this time a scallop chicharrón, dehydrated and fried. It was as good as you'd expect, with a lip-smackingly saline, umami-rich taste that left me wanting more. Gimme a whole bag, please.


For some of the heavier courses, we opened up a bottle of the Frederic Gouison "Heritage 1900" Pays d'Othe Apple Cider from France. This was a great pick as well, with loads of bright, apple-y sweetness up front, counteracted by an almost lactic tartness and funkiness that rounded things out perfectly. Think of it as an adult Martinelli's.


4: Lobster Mushroom | Onion Petals, Onion Broth, Tapioca Pearl, Celery Root Puree
Interesting note: the lobster mushroom isn't really a mushroom at all. It was rather tasty though, with an immensely rich, savory, satisfying smack along with a firm, weighty consistency that made them a joy to eat. Along with the 'shrooms came onion and onion jus, both of which provided a counterbalancing astringency that worked gorgeously here. Lovely texture from the tapioca, too.


5: Sea Bass | Artichoke Heart and Crispy Artichoke, Citrus Emulsion, Nasturtium Leaf
Sea bass, meanwhile, showed off an intriguing, slightly-rare consistency, along with a focused brine that really did convey the notion of the fish. To that, the duet of artichoke contributed a moderating element, while the citrus emulsion imparted a bittersweet, almost floral component to the bass.


6: Pork Belly | Pomme Souffle, Pork Jus, Compressed Granny Smith, Huckleberry
Pork belly was as wonderful as you'd expect it to be: tender and toothsome, with a great mix of fat and lean that duly displayed the pork-y nature of the cut. I thoroughly enjoyed it alone, but also found the sweetness imparted by the huckleberry and apple surprisingly well-suited, while the levity of the greenery was much appreciated as well. Even better were the pillows of pomme, which added a fantastic saltiness to the mix.


Our final wine of the night was the 2011 P-U-R La Bulle Gamay, an off-dry sparkler set in a beautiful tone of scarlet. It made sense with dessert, showing off fun, fresh, festive, fruity flavors that were easy to enjoy.


7: Dark Chocolate Sorbet | Passionfruit Cream, Pistachio Sponge Cake, Chocolate Powder, Praline Sable
Dessert brought us a delightfully light, fluffy pistachio sponge, its restrained sweetness playing off of the intensity of the chocolate admirably, all while the praline added an interesting textural element. Note the handmade bowl here, supplied by none other than Mr. Nemcik.


8: Sweet Snacks
Closing things out was a troika of mignardises: a salted ginger caramel, huckleberry pâte de fruit, and green tea macaron with elderberry.


Chefs Sergio Perera and Steve Monnier at the end of the first service.

There's no doubt that this was one of the more ambitious dinners that I've had in recent times. In general, flavors were very robust, very focused, very "ingredient-driven," so to speak, with the essence of the produce on proud display. At the same time though, the core of the menu was modern in aesthetic, with a certain organic, naturalistic character that lent itself well to the food. It'll be interesting to see how this all evolves. As for what's next for the duo, they plan to keep on going with these dinners, eventually adding an à la carte selection to the menu, and hope to open a permanent restaurant in the near future.

Campanile Restaurant
624 S La Brea Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.938.1447
www.campanilerestaurant.com
Mon 10/29/2012, 07:30p-10:05p





If we're talking about old-line eateries in Los Angeles, it's no doubt that Mark Peel's Campanile would be one that comes to mind immediately. Since opening in 1989, the restaurant has become a sort of training ground to a generation of LA chefs and a second home to countless diners. As such, I think we were all surprised to hear in September that the place was closing down after 23 years of business, the victim of an expiring lease. Many are bemoaning the loss of Campanile, though just as seemingly many are indifferent, pointing out that the restaurant's faded in recent years, especially with the departure of Nancy Silverton. No matter which side you're on, it's clear that Campanile stands as one of LA's most iconic restaurants, and thus a visit was absolutely necessary before the place left us for good.

About the Chef: A California native, Chef Peel was raised throughout various parts of the Golden State, and got his first restaurant job in high school, washing dishes at a place in the small town of Healdsburg in Sonoma Valley (known these days mostly for being the former home of the acclaimed Cyrus). He eventually transitioned into a cooking position there, and by the time he graduated, had worked at a number of local eateries. Peel attended the University of California at Santa Barbara, studying history, but soon left and enrolled in the hotel and restaurant management program at the California State Polytechnic University at Pomona. During his tenure there, he landed a job peeling vegetables at Wolfgang Puck's legendary Ma Maison (where Wolf first made a name for himself in the 70's), and, as part of the training there, was sent to France to stage at two Michelin three-star places: the longstanding La Tour d'Argent, as well as Roger Vergé's Le Moulin de Mougins (where Daniel Boulud worked early on).

In 1979, Peel became a Sous Chef at Michael McCarty's seminal Michael's in Santa Monica. Though he was married at the time, it was here where he would meet future wife Nancy Silverton, who started as a cashier before moving to pastry. Following, Peel cooked for a year at Alice Waters' Chez Panisse in Berkeley, and, in 1982, became the opening chef for Wolfgang Puck's groundbreaking Spago. Silverton moved to Spago during this period as well, and the two were soon married (and would later have three kids together). The couple left in 1985 and spent six months revamping Warner LeRoy's Maxwell's Plum in New York, then returned to LA. Back home, the duo then decided to set up shop in a historic building owned by Nancy's father, Larry Silverton. Larry was also a partner in the business, as was former Wine Director Manfred Krankl, who left some years later to start the Sine Qua Non winery (he was replaced by Claudio Blotta, of Cooks County fame); interestingly, he was also the husband of Nancy's sister Gail, who owns Gelato Bar (their son Nikolas Krankl heads up Single Origin Coffee at Short Order, and their other son Andreas Krankl used to run Press Panini).

In January 1989, Peel and Silverton launched La Brea Bakery in the space, with Campanile debuting six months later. The restaurant was a rousing success, garnering a "Best New Chef" nomination from Food & Wine that same year; Peel was also nominated for James Beard's "Best American Chef" in 1990, 1995, and 1996. In 1994, the husband-and-wife team wrote their first cookbook: Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton at Home, which was followed up by The Food of Campanile in 1997. 2001 saw a Beard nom for "Outstanding Restaurant," and also marked a turning point for La Brea Bakery, which was sold to Irish firm IAWS Group for $55 million. Peel also became a partner in Jar, Suzanne Tracht's modern chophouse (Tracht once worked as Campanile's CdC), but would divest his stake in 2004. The couple, however, would end up divorcing in 2005, with Silverton soon selling off her stake in the restaurant. Peel, for his part, remarried not too long after to vlogger Daphne Brogdon. With his ex-wife out of the way, he partnered with Campanile's GM Jay Perrin and took over the old Oasis Mediterranean Bar & Restaurant space on La Brea, with plans to open a wine bar there. However, by 2009, that idea had morphed into a mixology-centric concept named Glass and Mirrors.

During this period, Peel also competed on Top Chef Masters, eventually losing out to Anita Lo in a Neil Patrick Harris-inspired challenge, and released a new cookbook called New Classic Family Dinners. In October 2009, he purchased The Point, a casual lunch spot in Culver City, from Beacon's Kazuto Matsusaka and his wife Vicki Fan, who'd opened the place in 2007. It never really took off, though, and ended up shuttering in early 2011, reportedly the result of a botched Groupon deal (it has since reopened under new management). Glass and Mirrors, meanwhile, transformed into The Tar Pit, bowing in December that year as a sort of 40's supper club concept, with cocktails by Audrey Saunders of Pegu Club in NYC. Things, however, didn't work out quite as expected, with Saunders leaving abruptly in February 2010; Marcos Tello was rumored to take over, but that never came to fruition (instead, they nabbed David Kupchinsky). The situation was not helped by a less-than-stellar review from LAist's Lindsay William-Ross, which ignited a veritable shitstorm on the Interwebs, with both Mr. and Mrs. Peel colorfully chiming on the discourse.

Things weren't all bad though. In October 2010, Peel made an appearance as a guest judge on Hell's Kitchen alongside buxom "elite food blogger on Yelp" Libby Rego, the lovable Sophie Gayot, and some guy from Nobu (talk about a motley crew). Then, the following May, he announced that Campanile was going to part of the new remodel going on at LAX. In February this year, Peel collaborated on a dinner with Roy Choi entitled "Let's Fuck Things Up!" (seriously, that was the name). Perhaps they "fucked things up" too badly though, as The Tar Pit ended up closing in March, with Campanile biting the bullet not long after. The reason for the shutter was supposedly the expiring lease. But, remember that the building's landlord is still Nancy's father Larry Silverton, and word on the street is that he still had an axe to grind with Peel over the divorce.


Campanile sits in a historic building built in 1929 for film legend Charlie Chaplin. He never occupied the site, however, since he supposedly lost the structure in his divorce to his 16-year-old second wife Lita Grey, who he married to avoid statutory rape charges after knocking her up(!). After Larry Silverton purchased the 10,000 square-foot space in the late 80's, it was remodeled by architect Josh Schweitzer to its current form, encompassing multiple dining spaces, a pastry kitchen, a wine cellar, two private dining rooms, and even an outside patio. In the early days, Peel and Silverton even used to live in a small apartment on the third floor.


Campanile's menu is fairly compact, featuring the traditional setup of appetizers and mains--no "small plates meant for sharing" here. They also do lunch, brunch, a Grilled Cheese Night on Thursdays (Campanile helped popularize that trend), as well as a "Social House" happy hour menu on weekdays. To drink, think classic cocktails, a smattering of beers, and a great Cali-centric wine list overseen by General Manager and Sommelier Johann Drolshagen. Click for larger versions.


Sazerac [$12.00] | rye whiskey, cognac, peychaud bitters, absinthe rinse
Pancho Victoria [$12.00] | reposado tequila, fresh grapefruit juice, fresh lime juice, kaffir lime-ginger syrup, float of lagavulin
Moscow Mule [$12.00] | vodka, ginger beer, lime
To wet our whistles, we went with cocktails to begin. First was Campanile's version of the Sazerac, classic in essence, with a tasty interplay between the duo of liquor and the bitterness imparted by the Peychaud's. Even better was the Pancho Victoria, which I found rather delicious. I loved its mix of sweet, sour, and boozy flavors, perfectly integrated under a smoky, peaty veil of Lagavulin scotch--very nice. The Moscow Mule was also delectable: very traditional in preparation, yet wonderfully refreshing and effervescent, with the brightness of ginger melding well over the tang of lime. Overall, we had a strong trio here.


You'd expect bread ostensibly produced at the world-famous La Brea Bakery to be stellar, but what we were served here was merely ho-hum. Overly hard butter did not improve the situation.


Pickled Deviled Eggs [$7.00] | crispy bacon, chives
Deviled eggs were enjoyable, with a subtle tanginess from the pickling process to counteract the lushness of the yolk. Great touch of salt from the bacon, too.


White Bean Puree [$14.00] | balsamic reduction, olive oil, parsley, crostini
A purée of bean was hearty and satisfying (especially when taken with the crisp bits of bread), but disturbingly reminiscent of a plate of refried beans. I wanted more acidity, more brightness in the dish to offset the sheer heft of the white bean.


Duck Meatballs [$14.00] | shaved parmesan, torn basil
Meatballs were on point: soft, yet slightly gritty in consistency, with the rich, savory taste of duck on proud display, perked up by just a kick of piquancy.


Strawberry Salad [$16.00] | mixed greens, Humboldt Fog, strawberry & white balsamic vinaigrette
The strawberry salad was a pleasant surprise. The greens and onions here worked flawlessly with the tangy vinaigrette dressing, while the goat cheese added a palpable weight and creaminess to the dish. All that was then deftly complemented by an undercurrent of sugary strawberry.


Aviation [$12.00] | plymouth gin, maraschino liqueur, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, crème de violette
Viva La Raza [$12.00] | passion fruit, agave nectar, lime juice, jalapeño tequila
Alexandria's Sour [$12.00] | kaffir lime syrup, vodka, pressed lemon, topped with champagne
Our second round of cocktails started with the Aviation, and old school concoction made pretty much by the book here, resulting in an almost bracingly sour drink with a hint of bitterness; I would've liked more of the violet to have shown through though. The Viva La Raza was probably the best of the threesome, with a lovely sweetness up front leading to a lingering heat on the close, all mediated over a marked base of agave and tequila. Finally, we had Alexandria's Sour, with its smart interplay between the tangy citrus and vodka, all with the sparkling wine adding a great touch of levity to the mix.


Sauteed Trenne [$16.00] | garlic, shallots, bitter greens, bolognese
Moving on to pastas now, the trenne was a clear highlight of the meal. First off, the deep, dark flavors of the ragù were spot on and immensely comforting, with a luxuriousness that was perfectly tempered by the astringency of the greenery on the plate. At the same time, the trenne itself was superb, with a firm, almost crisp consistency that I adored. Clearly, the winning dish amongst the pastas.


Pasta Carbonara [$16.00] | pancetta, cream, cracked pepper, gruyere
The carbonara, meanwhile, was also quite delicious, with a classic mix of salty, cheesy, and peppery flavors, all bound together by a wonderfully firm base of al dente spaghetti. This one was easy to like.


Fresh Sheep's Milk Cheese Ravioli [$16.00] | wild mushrooms, tomato cream sauce
The ravioli, finally, was the least interesting of the pastas. The tangy tomato sauce made sense here, moderated by the weight of the cheese, but I really would've liked to have tasted more from the mushroom.


Olive Oil Poached Salmon [$30.00] | beluga lentils, wild arugula, parsley pesto
And now, the mains: Kicking things off was one of the best cooked salmon dishes that I've had in recent memory. The fish itself was faultless really, tender, fatty and slightly rare in temperature, with a wonderful salinity that just worked gorgeously with the bitterness of the arugula. I also enjoyed the beluga lentils, which lent an earthy heft to the plate that serving as a fitting counterpoint to the salmon. Definitely a favorite of the evening.


Pan-Seared Scallops [$30.00] | creamy polenta, vanilla butter carrots, asparagus, wild arugula
Scallops arrived perfectly cooked: supple and springy in bite, nicely caramelized, and with a great mix of sweet and salty flavors. They were enjoyable alone, but unfortunately, the vanilla notes present in the dish really didn't jive with me. I found the ingredient rather overwhelming, and would've liked the asparagus and arugula to have offset it more.


Aged USDA Prime Rib [$40.00] | flageolet beans, bitter greens, black olive tapenade
Up next was a straightforward steak, though I think we were all expecting an actual Lawry's-style prime rib. Nevertheless, the beef was pretty delicious, showing off plenty of bovine flavors and a lovely touch of char bitterness. I even liked the beans and greens as well, which worked wonders in moderating the potency of the rib eye. However, I would have liked the meat a bit rarer, though.


Grilled Striped Bass [$28.00] | grilled broccolini, kalamata olives, blistered cherry tomatoes
The savory section of our meal ended on a strong note with this sea bass. I found the fish firm, yet moist, with a great char and loads of mouth-watering, briny flavors. As such, the veggies here did an admirable job in really providing a bright, juicy, crunchy counter to the fish. Yum.


To pair with the desserts, we ordered up a bottle of Trockenbeerenauslese, specifically the Welschriesling 'Zwischen Den Seen,' TBA #7, Kracher, 2004 [$136] from famed winemaker Alois Kracher. Unsurprisingly, it was pretty much everything that you'd want in a dessert wine, with all the expected notes of stonefruit and honey on the palate, balanced by a touch of spice and light acidity. Delish.


Seasonal Sorbet [$12.00] | lemon honey sorbet, blueberry compote, roasted pineapple
We ended up ordering all five of Campanile's desserts, and I began with the lightest of the quintet. The sorbet was pretty straightforward, nothing really to write home about, with a bright, bracing, lemon-y tartness from the sorbet tempered by the sugary combo of pineapple and blueberry.


Boca Negra [$12.00] | chocolate sauce, orange buttermilk sherbet
This "black mouth" cake was more to my liking: super rich, and almost ridiculously dense, an unmitigated expression of chocolate only partly softened out by the tart-ish, citrus-y sherbet.


White Chocolate Saffron Crème Caramel [$12.00] | strawberries, candied almonds
Campanile's interpretation of flan was also quite effective, subtle in essence, with an eggy, nutty relish and hint of saffron that made perfect sense with the overtly saccharine nature of the caramel sauce here.


Housemade Ice Cream [$12.00] | chocolate lavender, chocolate sauce, brownie bites
A relatively simple presentation of chocolate ice cream was bumped up a notch by the incorporation of lavender, which lent a much appreciated floral character to the dessert. Nice textural contrast from the brownie bites, too.


Apple Cheddar Tart [$12.00] | rum caramel, vanilla ice cream
Last up was a pretty interesting take on an apple tart. The fruity sweetness of apple was certainly there, augmented by the rum and caramel, but the crux of the dish was the cheddar, which lent a lovely savoriness to the course that I rather enjoyed. The ice cream, of course, was a natural accompaniment as well.

And there you have it: the penultimate evening of dining at Campanile. As for the food, it was actually quite solid. Sure, it wasn't the most cutting-edge cooking around, but the flavors were there, the plates hearty and satisfying, and certainly, based on this dinner, there's no obvious reason why the place needed to shutter. Nevertheless, Campanile closed for good on October 31st, going out in grand fashion with a "Black & White Masquerade" on Halloween, which offered up unlimited food and drink all for the price of an $89 ticket. Say what you will, but Campanile will be missed by many an Angeleno. Mark Peel has stated that he'd like to reopen the restaurant somewhere else, but in the near term, remember that the LAX outpost is supposed to break ground next February, and the flagship La Brea Bakery store will eventually be relocated as well.

As for what's next with the building, it's being taken over by none other than Walter Manzke (late of Wildflour Cafe + Bakery in Manila and Milo & Olive Stateside), who's housing his long-awaited Republique there with Bill Chait's backing. The restaurant is slated to debut on June 1st next year, and will be split into two sections: a casual café and a more formal component. The former will serve all-day, turning into a wine bar at night, while the latter will be bistronomic in concept, with more limited seating and a more ambitious menu. In addition, Margarita Manzke will be running her own shop in the old La Brea Bakery, selling pastries and other sundry items. It's definitely something worth looking forward to, and I'm sure it'll do this storied space proud.

Aburiya Raku Restaurant
5030 Spring Mountain Rd, Las Vegas, NV 89146
702.367.3511
www.raku-grill.com
Sat 09/22/2012, 11:30p-01:25a



To wrap up this latest Las Vegas outing, we headed on over to the City's premier late-night dining destination: Raku. Situated in a sad-looking (though not quite as sad as Lotus of Siam's) strip mall in Chinatown, Raku calls itself an aburiya, which is sort of like a slightly fancier version of an izakaya. You might liken it to a Japanese gastropub (god I'm starting to hate that term), serving up binchotan charcoal-fired, robatayaki-esque grub with plenty of booze. The place is the brainchild of Mitsuo Endo, and since opening in 2008, has become the quintessential anti-Vegas restaurant, a favorite haunt of local chefs. I've been wanting to try Raku for a while, so we made sure to make the extra effort to visit this time around.

About the Chef: Chef Mitsuo Endo was born in 1971 in the sprawling metropolis that is Tokyo. He began his culinary career in 1988 as an apprentice, and immersed himself in the highest form of Japanese cuisine: kaiseki. After working at a number of restaurants throughout the City, he decided to relocate Stateside in 2001, settling in Seattle initially. He moved to New York the following year, and began working with chef-slash-restaurateur Koji Imai (who owns over 30 properties), later helping his mentor open Megu Tribeca and offshoot Megu Midtown, even becoming head chef in the latter half of 2005.

Then things got ugly. In September 2006, a former waitress named Satomi Southward (née Onikura) filed a $20 million lawsuit against Megu and its parent company, Food Scope. Hailing from Fukuoka-shi, Japan, she was an acquaintance of Endo's back in Seattle, and the Chef brought the divorcée over in 2004 when he was starting out at the restaurant. The suit specifically accused Endo of groping her, harassing her, and molesting her with kitchen utensils (that spatula has been where?), starting in the spring of 2005 (to make things worse, he was married at the time). Even more disturbingly, it also details an alleged date rape drug-induced sexual assault by one of Endo's line cooks, Lawrence Herman (who's been the subject of sexual abuse charges before), after a holiday party at the Tribeca Grand Hotel. Unsurprisingly, Southward left the restaurant biz, and has since taken up nursing. See here for all the salacious details.

Though I don't believe Endo was ever found guilty, he left his post at Megu after the debacle, taking refuge in the desert. In 2007, he moved to Las Vegas and helped open En Sushi & Robata Grill as head chef, and the following year, debuted his seminal Aburiya Raku, achieving cult status almost overnight. Though he worked at both places simultaneously for a time, his efforts today are solely focused on his solo project. This dedication appears to have paid off. Raku was nominated by James Beard for "Best New Restaurant" in 2009, and Endo himself was up for "Best Chef: Southwest" in both 2011 and 2012.


Raku started life as a tiny place with only a five-place counter and seating for perhaps 30, but has since expanded to accommodate 48 guests, and even features small private dining rooms now. The decor, awash in dark wood, is clean and calming, a fitting setting in which to enjoy the precise cooking going on.


As far as Raku's menu goes, diners are treated to a wide array of appetizers, grilled items, oden, rice/noodles, and desserts. There's even an multi-course, by-special-request-only kaiseki option available at $100 and $150 price points, and be sure to pay special attention to the specials board. To drink, think beers and a nice list of sakes. Click for larger versions.


To drink, we opted for sake, specifically a bottle of the Dai Shichi Minowamon "The Gate" [$150], a junmai daiginjyo from the Daishichi Sake Brewery in Fukushima prefecture. This was a refined, complex sake, fairly dry, but with a balance of sweetness, alcohol, and acidity. Quite nice, especially with the delicate sashimi courses.


Momotaro Tomato [$4.00]
We commenced with a gorgeous momotaro tomato, a varietal that I'd first discovered at the clandestine Totoraku. Just as I expected, the fruit was eminently juicy, and showed off a great blend of sweet and tangy that made for a great palate cleanser after a course of strongly-flavored meat or fish.


Blue Fin Tuna Sashimi [$31.00]
Two types of tuna sashimi were presented. The first was toro, the lighter belly cut, which was just what I wanted: fatty, oily, and melt-in-your-mouth supple, with a rich flavor that was keenly brightened up by a dab of house-made soy sauce. The leaner, darker akami was also tasty, with a less luxurious consistency and more focused brine.


Kanpachi (Amberjack) Sashimi [$23.00]
Kanpachi was presented beautifully, and was a joy to eat: clean and delicate-tasting, with a satisfyingly snappy bite. Fantastic with a touch of soy and wasabi.


Shima Aji (Stripped Jack) Sashimi [$25.00]
The shima aji, on the other hand, had a much firmer, slightly chewy consistency to it, while the fish's flavor was much more saline and full-bodied, with a subtle metallic tinge.


Grilled Sanma (Pike Mackerel) [$20.00]
Grilled mackerel pike arrived in two variations: one with salt, the other with soy. I tried the former, and it was fantastic. The fish was tender, smoky, and loaded with ocean-y goodness, with lovely pricks of saltiness to boot. As good as it was, the fried bone senbei might have been even better, with its mouth-watering savoriness and pleasing crunch--I'd love a whole bag of the stuff.


Chicken Teba Wing [$3.00]
Moving on to some yakitori now, we had here Raku's tebasaki. It was excellent, one of the tastiest presentations of chicken that I've had recently in fact. I found it immensely satisfying and just teeming with goodness, and loved its smoky, savory, succulent, salty character. A must try.


Hagatsuo (Bonito) Tataki [$25.00]
A lightly seared plate of katsuo was delightful. Texturally, it was tender, yet satisfyingly meaty, with a rich taste that was perfectly counterbalanced by the piquant threads of ginger here.


Poached Egg with Sea Urchin and Salmon Roe [$9.00]
Our next course married sea urchin, yamaimo, salmon roe, and nameko mushroom, all topped with a few slices of okra. Taste-wise, I quite liked how the sweet, saline richness of the uni worked with the salty ikura, all while the mountain yam served to ground the dish. However, we also had here the trinity of nameko, okra, and yamaimo, three of the most mucilaginous items around, and the resultant, gooey consistency was rather disconcerting.


Chicken Thigh [$2.75]
Momo, or chicken thigh, was served here solo, though it's often found paired with negi in momo negima. I rather liked it, finding the bird tender, juicy, and easy-eating--a great starter stick.


Agedashi Tofu [$10.00]
Chef Endo makes his own tofu daily, and Raku's agedashi variety is a thing of legends. Tonight it managed to live up to the hype. In fact, I'm going out on a limb and deeming this the best tofu I've had, ever. The age tofu showed off an utterly perfect crispness, hiding an interior that was creamy, pillow-y, almost fluffy in body. On the palate, the tofu was mildly savory, melding flawlessly with the salty spheres of ikura, tangy scallion, and umami-rich sprinkles of nori, all while the broth of tentsuyu added a delightful touch of piquancy to things. If you only order one thing at Raku, make this it.


Kobe Beef Filet with Wasabi [$10.50]
Kushiyaki skewers of wagyu beef were a pricey indulgence, but delicious and oh-so tender. I adored their amalgam of savory and sweet flavors, accented by a marked hint of smoke, while the line of wasabi on top served as a consummate exclamation point.


Ibérico Pork [$10.00]
Ibérico pork was available off-menu. Ask for it if you ever find yourself here, as the meat was super decadent, nearly oozing fat and oil, with a rich, pork-y relish and delicate sweetness that was dutifully tempered by a bit of astringent char.


Cold Green Tea Soba with Poached Egg [$8.50]
A cha soba made with green tea powder was of the bukkake variety, served cold in a piquant tsuyu broth. The noodles were quite nice, with a very focused, somewhat bitter green tea flavor that was duly enhanced by the poached egg, all while the nori and bonito on top contributed to an enveloping umami-soaked savor to the dish. Though we enjoyed the noodles with its intended sauce, interestingly enough we also experimented with dipping it in the leftover agedashi broth, and loved the results.


To close, a hot cup of hojicha, à la Urasawa.

Raku did not disappoint, serving up a near flawless meal that managed to delight and satisfy, even though every one of us was already full from our previous meal at Gordon Ramsay Steak mere hours prior. It might just be the best Japanese restaurant in Las Vegas, and really challenges Lotus of Siam as the City's top off-strip darling. I'd love to return, next time with an empty stomach, and give the kaiseki menu a go. In the meantime, Chef Endo is reportedly planning to open a Japanese bakery in the vicinity, so be on the look-out for that.

Test Kitchen at Bestia
2121 E 7th Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.514.5724
www.testkitchenla.com
Thu 11/08/2012, 8:15p-11:20p





One of the more interesting culinary concepts to hit Los Angeles in recent years has been Test Kitchen. Founded in 2010 by restaurateur extraordinaire Bill Chait and the man with the conspicuous coiffure Brian Saltsburg (who was later forced out of the partnership), Test Kitchen was a restaurant-within-a-restaurant, housed inside Chait's defunct Spark Woodfire Grill (the current site of Sotto). The idea was to provide a venue in which chefs could experiment and test out their new ideas in a low-risk setting, and allow for a place to show LA diners the work of chefs which they would otherwise not have access to. In addition, Test Kitchen also served as a setting where some of the City's finest mixologists were able to display their craft.

When it originally debuted in August 2010 (with Red Medicine's Jordan Kahn at the helm), Test Kitchen was only expected to run for a month, but due to the overwhelming popularity of the place, the series was extended all the way to December. Thus, I suppose we can't be surprised that TK is back, this time situated inside Bestia, Chef Ori Menashe's new Italian eatery set in Downtown's Arts District (and another Bill Chait-backed project). Back in 2010, I went a little overboard with Test Kitchen, showing up a somewhat ridiculous 23 times, so I made sure to temper things down this time around. As such, I chose to attend judiciously, starting with a dinner presented by none other than Walter Manzke, who just happened to be the chef responsible for one of my favorite meals of the last run.


I like what they've done with the space, and I can't imagine much changing between now and Bestia's debut in the coming weeks.


Manzke presented a four-course menu at $75, and also offered up a selection of "bar bites," which we, of course, made sure to sample as well. Click for larger versions.


On the beverage side of things, cocktails tonight were the task of Dave Fernie, Nick Meyer, and Kristina Howald, while Maxwell Leer (whom you may remember from The Tasting Kitchen and the last LudoBites) took charge of the wine list. Click for larger versions.


Once Bitter, Twice Shy [$10.00] | french vermouth, cocchi torino, barolo chinato, grapefruit, lime
Braces & Waistcoats [$10.00] | applejack brandy, jelinek fernet, spiced meyer lemon syrup, star anise tincture, meyer lemon juice
West End Girl [$10.00] | buffalo trace bourbon, manzanilla sherry, grenadine, lemon juice, green apple-sherry foam, cinnamon
Our first cocktail was the Once Bitter, Twice Shy, which I found eminently well-balanced and easy-drinking, with a great mix of sweet and sour flavors, all over a base of complex bitterness backed by a tinge of herbaceous essence. The Braces & Waistcoats was also rather tasty, with a superb aniseed-tinged spice up front, leading to a piquant, almost medicinal character on the midpalate. Last up was the West End Girl, probably my favorite of the bunch. I loved its sugary, cinnamon-laced nose as well as its blend of bourbon and sherry flavors, all tempered by a subtly sweet, citrus-y tang. Great textural component from the foam, too.


Manchego Beignets [$6.00] | pimentón
Beignets made with Manchego were a nice start to the meal--tasty, crisp, gougère-esque nuggets of cheesy goodness perked up by a hit of pepper.


Jar of Duck Liver Mousse [$9.00] | guava mustard, baguette
With the odious foie gras ban upon us, we have to make do with mere duck liver now, though Manzke's preparation here certainly did not leave me wanting. It was a quintessential presentation of the dish: undoubtedly hefty, with a slightly saccharine relish and a restrained, subdued, yet focused and unmistakable liver-y smack, all set off with a peppery kick. The mousse went great with the crusty cuts of baguette included, but the star of the show here was that guava mustard, which perfectly blended the sweetness of the fruit with a hot, bracing, horseradish-esque zing--genius.


Kumamoto Oysters [$3.00/each]
Kumamotos were prototypical examples of the varietal: plump and crisp, with a deft blend of sweet and saline flavors. Tasty alone, and just as good with a dash of the included mignonette. My only complaint: we were only given nine oysters, one short from the ten we ordered.


Pig's Ear Nachos [$11.00]
The Chef's take on nachos managed to be my favorite course of the night, as well as the best version of the dish that I'd ever had. It all started with the pig ears, which managed to come out simultaneously crispy and chewy, with a delightful piggy goodness that kept me coming back for more. The ear would've been delish all alone, but the brightness of the salsa verde and cilantro, along with the pricks of heat from the chilies easily took the pork to another level. Rounding things out was the gooey cheese and runny egg, both of which enveloped and integrated all the various elements at play.


Onion Tart [$12.00] | bacon, fuji apple, boudin noir
Manzke's onion tart immediately reminded me of the Flammkuchen that he prepared during his days at Church & State. I really appreciated the thin, crisp, fragile crust of the tarte flambée, as well as its sweet, weighty base of caramelized onion, augmented by the smoky/savory bits of bacon on top. The most interesting thing here, though, was the boudin noir, which added a delightful funkiness that overarched the entire dish.


Island Girls Just Wanna Have Fun [$10.00] | dominican rum, velvet falernum, yellow chartreuse, celery, lemon, ginger, serrano, chiles
Pimmin' Ain't Easy [$10.00] | english harbor rum, pimm's no. 1, chanterelle-infused angostura bitters, salt
A couple more cocktails: The Island Girls Just Wanna Have Fun was akin to a tropical Bloody Mary, redolent of celery, with an intense spiciness and herb-y character, all counteracted by the sweetness of the falernum. I preferred the Pimmin' Ain't Easy, which showed off a savory, medicinal flair bound by a focused sweetness that I found rather fetching.


Toast [$15.00] | sea urchin, yuzu
I'm a sucker for sea urchin, so it wasn't surprising that this was one of my favorite dishes of the night. The sweet, briny goodness of the uni was on proud display here, dutifully accented by the sourness of the yuzu, while the toast did a nice job grounding the dish. We actually requested another round, but the kitchen ran out early. The course reminded me of the "Uni Toast, Scallion Vinaigrette" that I'd had at Eric Park's Black Hogg (which I should probably revisit given that they finally have their liquor license).


1: Wild Arugula Salad | hawaiian kampachi, avocado, pistachio, chili-lime vinaigrette
With the "bar bites" dispensed with, we began the meal proper with a rather fantastic salad, one of the best I've had in recent times in fact. It was sort of a homage to Southeast Asian flavors, a perfectly balanced commixture of savory, sour, spicy, and sweet over a base of fresh, supple kampachi, all with a great, refreshing acidity.


To pair with the courses to follow, Bestia's sommelier Maxwell Leer guided us toward an off-wine list bottle: the 2009 Alberto Tedeschi Spungola Bellaria [$58], an intriguing wine to be sure--a white with a lot of weight behind it. I quite liked it though, with its oxidative, savory, nutty quality that recalled the essence of sherry or whiskey, all with a bit of levity courtesy of some delectable floral and fruity notes. One of my dining companions even likened the wine to "ham and apples."


2: Wood Oven Roasted Atlantic Lobster | mantou bread
This was another strong dish, really showing off the inherent goodness of the lobster, but also augmenting it with a mouth-watering lime-chili sauce that enhanced the crustacean without overwhelming it. At the end, I was searching for a way to drink up the remaining liquid in the shell, and I think this would be even better served rarer. We can't forget about the fantastic, Chinese-inspired mantou either, which conveyed a perfect blend of crisp, yet fluffy textures that I adored.


3: Grass-Fed Beef Rib Eye | baby spinach, chanterelle mushrooms
Our final savory course of the evening was a grass-fed ribeye, butchered by none other than Short Order's Christian Page. I'm not so sure grass-fed was the way to go here, though, as I found the cut leaner and tougher than I'd prefer, with a very focused, almost "gamey" beefiness to it. It was very different than your typical grain-fed steak. Nevertheless, I did appreciate the excellent crust on the beef, as well as its peppery kick, bolstered by the earthy chanterelles and a smidge of red wine reduction.


4: Pudwill Berries | mascarpone sabayon
We ended with Margarita Manzke's refined take on the classic dessert of berries 'n' cream. I really liked the multifaceted tartness of the fruit here, augmented by a bracing berry sorbet and gorgeously tempered by the sweet, creamy mascarpone sabayon. It was sort of like a match made in heaven, made even better by the textural play of the meringues. Yum.

It was great to be back at Test Kitchen, and given the strength of this meal, I sorta wish that I'd gone to more of the dinners. It's too bad that the run this time around was so much shorter. The bright side, though, is that TK's end means that Bestia's debut is right around the corner, and I really am looking forward to what Ori Menashe and his team are going to bring to Downtown. As for Walter Manzke, I was really heartened to taste his food finally after a long hiatus. The cooking was satisfying, interesting, yet approachable, and if this dinner was any indication, things should be looking up for Republique. I can't wait for the Chef to take over the Campanile space next June--it'll definitely be one of the openings to watch out for in 2013.

Otoro Sushi
1569 Fairway Dr, Walnut, CA 91789
909.598.8299
www.ootorosushi.com
Sat 11/10/2012, 7:10p-10:00p



Upon cursory glance, Ootoro doesn't have much going for it. It's Taiwanese-owned, has a generic-slash-cheesy name, and is located in Walnut of all places (along with the nearby Rowland Heights and Diamond Bar, a suburban haven for upper-middle-class Asian families not exactly known for its culinary merits). In fact, the Chef/Owner, Kai Wei "Kurt" Chen, also operates a sister restaurant (yes, with his sister) called Toros Sushi: Japanese Fusion Seafood in Alhambra, which isn't terribly well-regarded. Ootoro opened in May, and I would've never visited had it not been for the cajoling of reader and regular Paul Lee, head of operations at Hing Wa Lee jewelers next door, whom I got to know at a recent pop-up dinner at Marcona (after an initial meeting at Plate by Plate).

As for Ootoro's menu, it's definitely omakase-focused, which is a good sign. Three levels are offered, at $95.89, $75.89, and $58.89, and there's also a limited à la carte selection with some dishes that are not to be missed (such as the decadent kamatoro, which I'd only had at Urasawa before). Tonight, we enjoyed a custom tasting that sort of blended the two options. A more reasonably priced lunch menu is also offered (I hear the chirashizushi is what to get). To drink, there's a pretty decent list of sakes, along with a handful of your typical Japanese beers, as well as a wine list replete with some pricey bottles...


...Bottles such as the 2002 Moët & Chandon Dom Pérignon [$160]. The Champagne was a good example of the cuvée, with plenty of fruity, citrus notes grounded by a backbone of minerality and an undercurrent of biscuit-y goodness. Very drinkable now, but probably even better in a few years.


1: Shirako
We began with a serving of shirako, or fish milt, and it was arguably the tastiest preparation of the sperm sac that I'd ever had. The soft roe itself was expectedly creamy, with a very restrained, elegant brine to it that was perfectly countered by bite of the scallion and tanginess of the accompanying dressing.


2: Ise Ebi Sashimi [$75.00]
Next was an impressive presentation of Japanese spiny lobster. I first tried a piece of the translucent flesh by itself, and it was maaahvelous, with a fantastically crisp, snappy consistency and a subtle sweetness beautifully accented by an overarching hint of wasabi heat. Adding a dab of soy sauce to the ise ebi worked too, though I wish I'd remembered to give the lobster a squirt of sudachi.


3: Oyster Tasting [$18.00]
A troika of Kumamotos was on point as well. I began with the preparation topped with negi, momiji oroshi, and ponzu sauce, and found it spot on-delicious, with the tartness of the various accompaniments balancing out the salinity of the oyster perfectly. The caviar-crowned one was tasty as well, with the salty roe emphasizing the Kumamoto gorgeously. Last up was the uni- and ikura-topped version, which showed off a deft mix of creamy and sweet flavors that worked quite well over the briny base of oyster.


4: White Fish Tasting [$16.95]
Here was a tasting of various white fish, all from Japan, and seasoned with rock salt and yuzu. We were instructed to consume in a specified order, and first up was the kurodai (black snapper), a pretty hard-to-find fish that I'd only had at Sushi Zo previously. It was very nice, with a clean, crisp character finished with a marked touch of heat from the wasabi (always grated fresh here). The madai/red sea bream was even better, with an amazing texture and subtle flavor that paired superbly with the tangy citrus notes present. Last up was the alfonsino (kinmedai), probably my favorite of the threesome with its even more satisfying consistency and pinpoints of salt.


5: Yellowtail Family Tasting [$14.95]
A yellowtail family degustation started with a glistening cut of shima aji, with its firm, slick, satisfying bite and refined taste, keenly accented by a veil of wasabi kick. The kanpachi, meanwhile, was noticeably "stickier," with a slightly more aggressive flavor profile that went superbly with the heat in the bite. Rounding things out was the very rare kanburi, a type of wild yellowtail available during the winter months. It was easily the most luxurious of the trio, with a creamy, fatty lushness that made it probably the most decadent piece of yellowtail that I'd ever eaten. It was great to be able to taste the three different species back-to-back, to really appreciate the similarities and differences between them.


6: Awabi Sashimi [$90.00]
Abalone was very nice: firm, yet supple in texture, with a good bite and a great touch of smoky character to go along with the subtle brine of the gastropod. The innards, meanwhile, were also presented, and contributed a much more intense, earthy relish to the dish, while the included seaweed did an admirable job in balancing out the flavors at play.


7: Otoro Sashimi [$62.50]
As the restaurant's name would imply, one of the specialties here is toro, and we were treated to no less than five different types of the coveted cut. First was this snowy otoro sashimi, taken from the upper chest of the fish (near the collar). It was as melt-in-your-mouth as you'd expected, with an unabashed fattiness and precious little sinew. Basically the epitome of toro--chewing was barely necessary.


8: Chutoro [$7.00]
Following was chutoro, a noticeably less fatty, but still utterly delectable part of the tuna: undeniably creamy, with a rich, yet restrained relish and great wasabi counterpoint.


9: Kamatoro #1 [$24.95]
Next was a real treat: kamatoro, the rarest, fattiest part of the tuna, taken from the collar of the fish, and something that I'd only eaten previously at Urasawa. In fact, we were provided two types of kamatoro tonight. The first here was from Boston-sourced tuna, which was the chewier, more tendonous varietal, with boatloads of flavor and a great hint of wasabi--very satisfying.


With the Champagne all drunk up, we moved on to a bottle of Lindemans Gueuze Cuvée René that I'd pulled from my fridge. I'd been curious for a while about pairing geuze with sushi, and I'm happy to report that the match worked, with the sour, slightly funky notes of the lambic beer doing a great job in balancing the sheer heft of the fatty fish.


Here, the Chef shows off a gloriously white-speckled cut of kamatoro.


10: Kamatoro #2 [$24.95]
Our second serving of kamatoro came from the fish utilized in the otoro and chutoro courses above (from Spain, I believe). This one was much silkier, much more luxurious in consistency, with a wonderfully intense, yet restrained richness that was flawlessly offset by the smidge of wasabi on top.


Here, second-in-command Onami-san sears our tuna for the course to follow.


11: Aburi Toro
Our gauntlet of toro ended with a seared preparation of the Boston tuna, served with takuan. It was pretty incredible: uncompromisingly unctuous (yes, that hated word really is appropriate here) and practically oozing oil upon mastication, with an incomparable depth that was beautifully accented by a hint of bitter char. The pickled daikon, meanwhile, did a great job tempering things out a bit, and also added a nice crunchiness to the course. Excellent.


The Chef has taken full advantage of the recent (August 17th) lifting of the Japanese beef ban, sourcing some ridiculously-marbled wagyu striploin from Miyazaki Prefecture. The "American style" wagyu that we've been subsiding on the past few years ain't got nothin' on this.


12: Miyazaki Beef [$160.00]
And here we see the aforementioned wagyu, done as a steak and garnished with asparagus, mushroom, and strings of fried leek. It was unsurprisingly opulent, undeniably fatty, and wonderfully tender, with an almost gelatinous consistency that required only a minimal amount of chewing. There was bovine flavor here in spades, and though I usually prefer my steaks unadorned, the accoutrements made sense. The slight sweetness in the sauce didn't overwhelm the meat, and I actually really liked the levity imparted by the veggies. A true Japanese wagyu steak is a splurge, but is something that I urge everyone to try at least once, especially now that we have the opportunity after so many years of being deprived.


13: Ise Ebi Heads
Remember the fantastic spiny lobster that we had earlier? Well here was the rest of the crustacean, roasted to briny, creamy perfection and ready to be scooped out of its shell.


14: Blue Crab Hand Roll [$7.95]
Here we had Ootoro's take on the ubiquitous blue crab hand roll, perhaps first popularized by Sushi Nozawa. This was better than the original though, with the sweet brine of the crab more forcefully conveyed, yet contrasted by the rice and the roll's crunchy, umami-rich seaweed wrapper.


15: Dobin Mushi [$8.95]
Our final savory course was an aromatic broth loaded with shrimp and shiitake, enoki, and eringi mushrooms. It was a hot, hearty end to the meal, one that adroitly conveyed the earthy, heady, slightly astringent nature of the ingredients within. Now if only they had matsutake...


16: Cheesecake
The first dessert was a Japanese cheesecake, which I found delightfully dense, with a deft balance of sweet and tangy flavors that paired well with the sugary fruit.


17: Red Bean Ice Cream
Rounding things out was an azuki ice cream, which really did a great job in displaying the sweetness of the red bean.

Quite simply, this was one of the most satisfying Japanese meals that I've had in a while. I couldn't really find fault with any of the plates, and the quality and sheer luxury of the food is nearly unrivaled. It's the best sushi I've had on the right side of Downtown, and I think this place really does compare favorably to the Westside's cream of the crop. My only concern is the service. Given that Ootoro's Chinese-owned, it's not quite up to Japanese standards, though it's certain workable. For all you sushi fans out there (and I know that there are a lot of you), this off-the-beaten-path hidden gem is worth a try despite all that it has going against it. Go, sit at the bar, put yourself in the Chef's hands, and prepare to drop some serious coin.

Valentino Restaurant "40th Anniversary"
3115 Pico Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.829.4313
www.valentinosantamonica.com
Wed 11/14/2012, 06:50p-11:00p





If we're talking about old-line Italian restaurants here in LA, there's no doubt that Valentino would be at the top of that list. Founded by the affable Piero Selvaggio way back in 1972, the restaurant really helped establish the Italian scene here in the Southland, and has brought the City some of its best Italian chefs, many of which have gone on to do great things of their own in Los Angeles. As such, we can't be surprised that Valentino is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. To mark the occasion, Selvaggio recently hosted a celebration featuring 40 courses of food from the islands of Sicily (Piero's birthplace) and Sardinia (where Chef Nico Chessa comes from), ostensibly inspired by the cooking of revered Sicilian chef Ciccio Sultano of the Michelin two-star Ristorante Duomo.

Chessa was assisted by Pastry Chef Alessandro Stroppa, as well as guests chefs Celestino Drago, Steve Samson, and guest pastry chef Davide Giova (of Urth Caffe, and also Valentino, previously). In addition, Darrell Corti of the famed Corti Brothers grocery in Sacramento was on hand MC'ing the event (though I didn't manage to catch him even once during the night), and the whole meal was dedicated to the late Mauro Vincente, of the seminal Rex il Ristorante.

If that wasn't enough, on December 4th, Selvaggio is following things up with another dinner, this time a 10-courser featuring Urbani white truffles. The guest chef that evening will be Il Cascinale Nuovo's Walter Ferretto from the Asti province of Piedmont, along with Valentino Las Vegas' Luciano Pellegrini and Farina's Angelo Auriana (also a Valentino alum).


The night's 40 courses (or 43, if you actually count the number on the menu) were priced at an astoundingly reasonable $125 per head, which comes out to a mere $3.13 per course; that must be some sort of record. Click for larger versions.

Meanwhile, to drink, forty 2oz shots of wine were available for an extra $75pp. That means 80 ounces of vino, or over three bottles worth, per person. Clearly, they were trying to get us ubriaco. Unfortunately though, the 40 wines didn't really form a wine pairing of any sort; rather, they just came out willy-nilly at our server's whim, sometimes announced, other times not. As such, it was an exercise in futility to actually try to determine which wine was which exactly, so here's just a list of the producers (not at all helpful I know):

• Sicilian Wines: Graci, Planeta, Regaleali, Donnafugata, Frank Cornelissen, Girolamo Russo, Rapitatà, Faro Palari of Salvatore Geraci, Tami by Arianna Occhipinti, Benanti, Pellegrino, Di Giovanna, Antica Terra del Nanfro, Feudo Maccari, Cantine Gulfi, De Bartoli, Azienda Agricola Spadafora, Aziendor A. Vivera, Virgona, Valle dell'Acate.
• Sardinian Wines: Pedres, Cantine Santadi, Sella e Mosca, Barrua, Dettori, Argiolas, Cantina Dorgali.

Upon being seated, a small plate of bread was quickly dropped off at our table. The first varietal wasn't much to talk about, but the second was much more interesting. I believe it was a pane guttiau, a version of a thin, crisp traditional Sardinian flatbread called pane carasau, but with the addition of olive oil and salt.


INVOLTINI DI MELANZANE | eggplant rolls with smoked provola and onions
Our first few courses arrived simultaneously, and my first bite comprised this involtino, a sort of rolled eggplant dish. I'm generally not a fan of the vegetable, but I actually quite enjoyed this, finding the smoky, lingering taste of the eggplant nicely offset by the marked sweetness present.


CROSTINO | with ricotta and sea urchin
Things quickly started to go downhill. A crostino of sea urchin and ricotta arrived without the former ingredient, and thus was just cheese on bread, hardly something to write home about. I suppose that's better than what some of my other dining companions got, which was nothing (the bite was omitted altogether).


SPIEDINO DI POLPO | octopus skewer
This tiny tentacle was tasty enough, with a delightfully soft, supple consistency and a creeping brine and sweetness, all with an undercurrent of bitter char. I just wish that the piece were larger, so I could've better appreciated the texture of the octopus.


PANELLE | chickpea fritters
FOCACCE | Assortite
Triangular portions of panella were delicious: salty, crunchy, and full of hearty, savory goodness. The focaccia was delectable as well, with a delightful onion-y tanginess to pair with the substantial bite of the dough.


STUFFED CALAMARI | with couscous, bronte pistachio and castelvetrano olives
Squid was quite good: snappy and with a tasty ocean-y relish, yet moderated by the crunchy, nutty combo of the pistachio and couscous.


CRUDO DI PESCE | with trapani salt, olive and condiments
Nobody (including our server) knew exactly what this was when it arrived at the table. The red fish was obviously tuna, and it was decent, albeit a bit dry, with a creeping brine, slight olive oil character, and nice pricks of saltiness from what I assume is the Trapani. The other spoon left us scratching our heads, though. The specimen was somewhat chewy, with a "stickiness" that reminded us of raw shrimp, but lacked sufficient acidity.


CROSTINO | with ricotta and sea urchin
At last, we were properly provided our crostini course. This one was much better, obviously. The addition of the urchin really worked here, adding a cool, creamy, ocean-y counterpoint against the tangy ricotta.


SEPPIE | grilled cuttlefish with squid ink, orange zest and fennel pollen
The seppie was definitely a highlight of the evening. I loved the springy texture of the cuttlefish, and how its salinity was countered by the beans in the dish. Topping things off was a hint of citrus, which gave the course a lovely brightness.


MACCU | fava beans puree soup
The traditional Sicilian soup maccu was a welcomed sight. The potage was hot and hearty, with a great earthy weight from the favas accented by just a touch of funk.


CERVELLINI FRITTI | calf brain fritters with roasted mushrooms
A small sphere of calf brain was surprisingly delish, mild at first, with a balance of creamy and crispy textures, leading to a growing gaminess on the close that lingered on and on.


ZUPPA DI REGULA E ARSELLE | couscous with saffron broth and baby clams
Accompanying the cervellini was a rich, heady soup featuring saffron. I really appreciated its depth and intense savoriness, bolstered by the incorporation of clam, while the couscous provided a fitting textural counterpoint.


MAURO VINCENTE BUSIATE ALLA TRAPANESE | corkscrew pasta with almond pesto
BOMBA DI RISO AL RICCI DI MARE | rice pie with sea urchin and orange blossom
PENNETTE ALLA NORMA | with eggplant, cherry tomatoes and ricotta salata
Next up was a trio of Sicilian pastas. The first was dedicated to the late Mauro Vicente and was ostensibly handmade by the 86-year-old Elvira Cavallo, formerly of Selvaggio's shuttered Primi. I quite liked it, finding the bright, verdant relish of the pesto excellent against the slightly astringent character of olive oil; I would've liked the pasta a touch firmer though. The rice bomba was even better, a blend of crispy and creamy parts, with the lushness of the sea urchin conveyed admirably. Last up was the pennette, probably the most conventional of the pastas, named after Vincenzo Bellini's opera Norma. It showed off a classic tomato tanginess, balanced by the salty ricotta, but then augmented by the use of eggplant.


ANZONE | bresaola-like cured lamb
SARTIZZA PICCANTE | cured spicy pork sausage
GUANCIALE | cured pork cheek
Three salumi from the Sardinian side of the menu made an appearance. Up first was the pig jowl-based guanciale, which was pretty wonderful, with a very satisfying bite and great blend of pork-y and herb-y flavors. The sartizza piccante was also delicious, and delectably spicy, while the anzone was tasty as well, showing off a delightful meatiness and fascinating complexity.


BOTTARGA | silver mullet roe with baby artichoke salad
A spoonful of artichoke and bottarga I found quite endearing, with the vegetable providing a perfect temper to the substantial salinity of the mullet roe.


SEPPIE | grilled cuttlefish with squid ink, orange zest and fennel pollen
SPIEDINO DI POLPO | octopus skewer
At this point in the meal, our servers were thoroughly confused as to our progress in the menu, and thus brought out another serving of the cuttlefish and octopus that we'd already had. I guess I wasn't complaining too much, though, as these were some tasty little bites.


TIMBALLO DI RAGUSANO | grilled vegetables and Ragusano cheese tortino
Nevertheless, we pointed out to the staff which items we were still missing, including the Fagottini di Caponata and this Timballo di Ragusano. The timballo, though, did arrive eventually, and was quite enjoyable, with a tasty interplay between the grilled veggies and Ragusano. Great "crust" from the cheese, too.


FRITTATINA DI CICORIE | cast-iron baked flat omelet with bitter greens and potatoes
CROSTINO | with ricotta and sea urchin
MUGGINE AFFUMICATO | smoked silver mullet with sheep ricotta and organic honey
PANE GUTTIAU | thin flat bread sprinkled with olive oil and sea salt
A plate containing four courses followed. The pane guttiau we already had with the bread, so I'm not sure why it's listed as a separate course on the menu, and of course, this was our third serving of the sea urchin crostini. With that out of the way, we were free to enjoy the frittatina, basically a mini egg fritatta. I liked it well enough, but really wanted to taste more of that potato. We also had some thin slices of what I believe was the Muggine Affumicato--intense, salty, and hammy--but where was the ricotta and honey?


RICCI DI MARE | sea urchin on a spoon
Sea urchin on a spoon was exactly that: sea urchin on a spoon. It was some solid urchin, but I would've really liked more to have been done here.


PUNZU AL SUGO DI GRANCHIO | thumb-sized pasta with Dungeness crab meat
BUSA AL POMODORO E FIORE SARDO | homemade bucatini with tomato sauce and pecorino
MALLOREDDOS CON "PURPUZZA" | with homemade sausage and saffron
Here was our threesome of Sardinian pastas now. I started with the maccarrones de punzu, and it was excellent, with a very satisfying bite and a superb sweetness and brine from the crab to go against the brightness of the sauce. The busa was also quite nice, with a classic interplay between the tart tomato and salty shavings of Pecorino. My favorite here, though, was the malloreddus, which was paired with an incredible purpuzza sausage that showed off just a marvelous depth of flavor. I definitely could've used a larger portion here.


L'AGNELLO | lamb belly with Modica's spicy chocolate sauce and autumn caponata
INVOLTINI DI VITELLO | veal rolls with bread crumbs, raisins, peanuts and cheese
Moving on to the main courses now, we started with a Sicilian preparation of lamb belly that I found rather delicious. I loved its dark, deep intensity, tarted up by the sour bits of pomegranate and the juicy side of sweet-smoky stuffed "ripieni" tomato. The veal roll didn't disappoint either, with a certain sweetness initially that led to the savoriness of meat on the midpalate.


AGNELLO AL FINOCCHIETTO | braised lamb with mirto-berry essence
The Sardinian braised lamb was quite a bite to behold as well: tender, with a good crust and boatloads of ovine flavor deftly moderated by the slices of fennel and cardoon present.


MAIALINO AL FORNO | oven roasted suckling pig sprinkled with sea salt
The suckling pig was a fitting conclusion to the savory portion of our meal. There was porky goodness here in spades, accented by pinpoints of salt, and I appreciated the balance between crispy and tender textures, too.


At this point, thanks to the disorganization of the wine service tonight, we had no less than nine glasses on our table, all unidentifiable. And I'm the only one who ordered wine in our party of four; imagine if we all did.


LA TUMA PERSA
FIORE SICANO
PECORINO GRAND CRU
FIORE SARDO DOP
Our cheese course comprised four varieties. Representing Sicily was the La Tuma Persa, the dry, crumbly, somewhat nutty "lost cheese," as well as the slightly grassy cow's milk Fiore Sicano. From Sardinia was the Pecorino Grand Cru, a tangy, salty cheese that one could liken to Parmiggiano-Reggiano, and the famed Fiore Sardo. Accompanying the cheeses was duet of orange and mandarin confetture (jams) by the longstanding Caffe Sicilia in Noto, Italy, along with eucalyptus and strawberry tree honeys from Sardinian producer Liccu Manias.


TORRONE ALLE MANDORLE | nougat with Noto's almond by Corrado Assenza
FRUTTA MARTORANA | marzipan sweet fruits
Corrado Assenza of the aforementioned Caffé Sicilia crafted some lovely almond nougats, showing off a perfect mix of sweet and nutty flavors. We also had marzipan from Palermo, fun little fruits with boatloads of sugary flair.


GELO DI MELONE | melon jelly
CANNOLICCHI | mini cannoli filled with ricotta cream
SORBETTO AI FICHI D'INDIA | prickly pear sorbet
AMARETTI DI ORISTANO | little bitter macaroons-like cookies
TURTA DE ICOS | fresh figs pie
PABASSINOS | raisins and almonds biscuits
The final plate tonight contained our last six desserts, three each from the two islands. Sicily provided a nice cantaloupe jelly; an absolutely flawless miniature cannoli (quite possibly the best I've had); as well as a surprisingly restrained, but bracingly cold prickly pear sorbet. Sardinia brought us a delightfully soft, nutty almond cookie (which reminded me of the Chinese type); a sugary fig tart with an almost coffee-like astringency; and finally a licorice-tinged raisin cookie.

In the end, this was a fun, but also very trying meal. The food, for the most part, was on point, and it was fantastic to be able to taste some of these hyper-regional specialties that you'd have a hard time finding otherwise. It really was a different take on Italian cuisine, one that I appreciated. However, the overall experience was severely marred by the utter disarray of the service staff and perhaps the kitchen as well. At one point, the front-of-the-house seemed to completely lose track of which courses had been served, and I ended up having to circle items on a menu that was subsequently handed to our server. Courses were missed; courses were repeated; courses were brought out with little or no explanation (or the wrong explanation); and courses were served totally out of order (why are pastas coming out before the stuzzichini?). Things got a bit heated with our servers at times, as both parties were at their wit's end.

The wine service, though, was arguably even more lamentable. The size of the pours ranged from barely enough for a sip to a healthy half-glass, while some were paired with eight courses, some only one. Some wines were brought out with no announcement, and servers had to constantly ask us which wines we had already, which of course we didn't really know, since the entire process was pretty much a free-for-all. The whole ordeal was a bit of a mess really, probably the most harried dining experience that I've ever had, and we still never saw that fagottini.

Gorge Restaurant
8917 W Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.657.6328
www.gorgela.com
Wed 11/21/2012, 07:35p-10:05p



Astute readers will know that have a bit of a soft spot for charcuterie, being quite the fan of various cured meats, terrines, pâtés, sausages, and the like. As such, WeHo newcomer Gorge piqued my interest, since it's the only restaurant in the Los Angeles area I can think of that touts an almost exclusively charcuterie-focused menu. Situated in the spot once occupied by Shiro Kuro (as well as Sunset Sushi, Sushiteria, Ezo, and Koya), the restaurant-cum-wine bar is the brainchild of Chef Elia Aboumrad and Pastry Chef-slash-GM Uyen Nguyen, and debuted just recently on September 10th.

About the Chefs: Aboumrad was born in Mexico City to a Lebanese family. Growing up, she took on an interest in competitive swimming at an early age, and was planning to compete at the Olympics until an injury sidelined her. Following, she began considering a career in medicine, but before starting college, took a year off and decided that her future was in the kitchen. Thus, Aboumrad moved to France and enrolled at the Ecole Lenotre, earning a whopping 34 specialty certifications and meeting her future business partner Uyen Nguyen. After graduating, she went to L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris, eventually becoming the restaurant's first female sous chef, then moved to Las Vegas in 2005 to help open both L'Atelier and the eponymous Joël Robuchon at the MGM Grand. Aboumrad worked a stint at CraftSteak during this period as well, and was later appointed Executive Chef of Mandalay Bay's THEcafé at THEhotel.

In the latter half of 2006, Aboumrad appeared as a contestant on Season 2 of Top Chef, earning a very respectable 4th place finish behind Sam Talbot, Marcel Vigneron, and winner Ilan Hall (who was originally slated to be a partner at Gorge). She was invited to participate in Top Chef: All-Stars in late 2010--while she was in the planning stages of her first solo project, a fine dining French joint in WeHo named Avec Moi--but was the first chef eliminated. Due to the early loss, Aboumrad felt humiliated, and blasted head judge Tom Colicchio, accusing him of selling out and causing a mini-shitstorm. With that behind her, the Chef worked various consulting and private catering gigs, all the while setting the stage for Gorge.

Chef Nguyen, for her part, was born in Bien Hoa, a city in Southern Vietnam's Dong Nai province. The youngest of six daughters, she moved to the US when she was less than two years old, settling with her family in Costa Mesa. Fascinated by her mother's cooking, Nguyen quickly took on an interest in cooking as a child, but eventually attended UC Irvine to study International Relations. During her tenure there, she participated in an exchange program in Lyon, and her four months in France reinvigorated her passion for food. Following graduation, she took a job at a local bank in Mission Viejo, but quickly realized that that wasn't the life for her, and left to study pastry at the Ecole Lenotre.

After receiving her diploma, Nguyen worked briefly at Pâtisserie Gaulupeau in Versailles before coming back Stateside in 2002. She landed in Las Vegas, specifically in the kitchens of Le Cirque at the Bellagio. From there, Fleur de Lys at Mandalay Bay was next, then an Executive Pastry Chef role at MGM's CraftSteak. Eventually, Nguyen was poached by the folks over at Caesars Palace to become opening Pastry Chef at Guy Savoy, and, in 2008, was named Rising Star Chef by StarChefs for her desserts there. She stayed at Savoy until early 2009, dropping off the radar for a couple years before emerging to work on Gorge.


Gorge's menu, as advertised, focuses heavily on Aboumrad's various preparations of charcuterie, and pretty much every item on there is touched in one way or another by preserved meat. To drink, there's a smart selection of not-terribly-expensive wines and a smattering of beers, with course-specific pairings (a nice touch) designed by Master Sommelier Darius Allyn, who just so happens to be the Chef's husband. Click for a larger version.


House dried saucisson sec, Fromage de tete, House pickles, Country Bread [$18.00]
Naturally, we had to begin with the Chef's charcuterie plate. It featured three types of dry cured sausage, each with different balances of herb-y, spicy, and pork-y flavors. I was particularly fond of the garlic variety, with its intense garlicky notes building toward the finish. The head cheese was commendable, classic in essence really, with a rustic, gelatinous body and hearty savor, deftly set off by a dab of the included mustard. The crunchy, pickled Romanesco broccoli, meanwhile, was a great accoutrement as well.


Pig Ear Tartine [$16.00] | Pig ear confit, Black truffles, Mushroom duxelle, Parmesano reggiano, Rustic baguette
A tartine of pig ear was a favorite of the evening. The confit showed off loads of porcine goodness, duly enhanced by the earthiness of the accompanying mushrooms, while the greenery on the plate imparted a well-placed lightness to things. Texturally, I would've liked a bit more crispness on the baguette here, and perhaps some fried pig ear thrown in for good measure.


Rabbit Rillette [$15.00] | 48hr. confit, House pickled Trumpet Royale mushrooms, Country bread
Rillettes of rabbit was on point: creamy and lush, with a certain depth and earthiness that made it a fitting spread for the accompanying toasted bread. At the same time, the pickled mushrooms acted as a tangy, textural counterpoint to the dish.


Frisée Salad [$15.00] | Bacon flan, Crisp shallots, Chive, Warm mustard vinaigrette, Poached egg
Next up was one of the Chef's favorite dishes, a riff on the classic salade Lyonnaise. The lushness of the runny egg was proudly conveyed here, a creamy, enveloping element over the bitterness of the greens and the salty bacon flan, which took the place of lardons (though I wouldn't have minded some of those mixed in as well). The mustard vinaigrette, meanwhile, added a tangy contrast to the course that wrapped things up succinctly.


Smoked Oyster Mousse [$15.00] | Beef jus en gelée, French baguette
The oyster mousse captured the essence of the bivalve: smoky and unabashedly saline, with a smart counterweight in the form of the umami-rich beef gelée. Lovely over the sliced baguette, and with a surprising crunch courtesy of pine nuts.


Duck Sausage [$14.00] | Sauteed seasonal mushrooms, Potato purée, Duck jus
A sausage of canard really showed off the intense flavor of the duck, tempered by an herb-y zing, though I wanted a firmer, less "gritty" texture on it. Nevertheless, the earthiness of the paired mushrooms was spot on, and the pommes purée made sense too.


Rouget & Noix de St. Jacques Terrine [$23.00] | Red Snapper, Jumbo scallop, Mushrooms, Grapefruit reduction, Fines herbes salad
I don't think I've ever had a seafood-based terrine, so this was a bit of a new experience for me. It really displayed the character of the rouget: fishy and ocean-y in character, with a subtle sweetness from the use of scallop. I appreciated the levity imparted by the citrus dressing here, but the crux of the dish for me was the fines herbes, which imparted an amazing astringency and lightness to the dish that complemented the terrine perfectly.


Beer Sausage [$11.00] | Sauteed fingerling potatoes, Choucroute, German mustard
The beer sausage was just what I was expecting: rich and hearty, with a nice snap to it. The fingerlings on the side were absolutely delightful, and I enjoyed the tart, sour character of the chouroute as well.


Gorge's dessert menu is interesting in that it features, exclusively, seasonal variations of only one dish: the Saint-Honoré. Named after the French patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs, the mini-cake is generally composed of a base of puff pastry and choux pastry, topped with choux à la crème (cream puffs) and chantilly. Click for a larger version.


Classic Vanilla [$10.00] | Vanilla bean pastry cream, Crunchy caramel, Vanilla chantilly
We began with the most classic of the St. Honoré cakes, and it was pretty marvelous. I loved the sheer flakiness of the puff pastry here, and how it formed a great, moderating base to the dish. The cool, creamy essence of vanilla was adroitly conveyed in both the chantilly and the profiteroles, while the sugary weight of the caramelized sugar formed a focused, crunchy counterpoint that made the dessert utterly balanced.


Pistachio [$10.00] | Pistachio pastry cream, Vanilla chantilly, Pistachio macaron
The pistachio version of the St. Honoré made a strong showing too. Here, the star of the show was of course the pistachio cream, which provided a great balance of sweet and nutty flavors that paired beautifully with the pastry. I thoroughly enjoyed the incorporation of a pistachio macaron here as well, which easily stood on its own merits.


Pumpkin [$10.00] | Pumpkin custard, Vanilla choux, Vanilla chantilly
We closed with Nguyen's seasonal St. Honoré featuring pumpkin, and it didn't disappoint either. I found it somewhat reminiscent of a pumpkin pie actually, with a great interplay between the custard and the flaky crust, and liked the use of savory pepitas here as well.

This Sunset Strip newcomer made a solid showing tonight. Aboumrad's charcuterie-centric menu was quite a breath of fresh air, something that I'd never really seen before and that actually brings something novel to the game. The Saint-Honorés, meanwhile, were a bite to behold as well, with Nguyen undoubtedly doing justice to the Parisian classic. Though the restaurant's format may not be for everyone due to the almost religious adherence here to prepared meat products, Gorge does seem like a lovely addition to the neighborhood, and I do hope that it can outlast its predecessors.