kevinEats

Addison at The Grand Del Mar
5200 Grand Del Mar Way, San Diego, CA 92130
858.314.1900
www.addisondelmar.com
Tue 11/26/2013, 08:30p-12:00a

Of all the local places on my to-eat list, perhaps none has remained elusive longer than Addison, which I think I'd been curious about pretty much since it debuted in late 2006. Most of the reason had to do with the fact that it's located in San Diego, but a recent one-day stop down there finally allowed me to cross the place off my list. Named after architect Addison Mizner (the inspiration for the resort's architecture), the restaurant is helmed, and has always been helmed, by Executive Chef William Bradley.

About the Chef: A San Diego native, Bradley got his first taste of the restaurant biz at age 16, when he started working as a prep cook at a local Italian joint in the unincorporated suburb of Bonita. He instantly fell in love with the craft, and eventually made his way to Azzura Point at Loews Coronado Bay Resort, cooking under James Boyce (best known around these parts for his work at Studio). Bradley ended up following Boyce to the well-regarded Mary Elaine's in Scottsdale, working there for three years as a sous chef. In 2002, he ventured out from his mentor's wing and secured an Executive Chef role at the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale's Golden Swan restaurant, which he transformed into Vu in October 2004. During his tenure here, he was thrice nominated for James Beard's "Rising Star Chef" award.

In 2006, he left Arizona and returned home to San Diego to serve as the opening chef at Addison, which he quickly turned into one of the area's destination restaurants. Just last year, Bradley was nominated by Beard for its "Best Chef: Pacific" category (though losing out to Matt Molina of Mozza fame). Currently, he's joined in the kitchen by Chef de Cuisine Anthony Secviar (ex-French Laundry) as well as sous chefs Shaun Gethin and Stefani De Palma. Note that Aaron Martinez, whom we encountered at Rancho Valencia, was opening sous here, prior to his stint at In de Wulf in 2009.

Addison Bar/Lounge

The environment at Addison is as grand as you'd expect, sort of exuding the same ornate, Spanish Colonial Revival aesthetic prevalent in the surrounding property. The main dining room holds about 80, and there's also a 15-seater Le Grand Table (a chef's table, basically).

As for Addison's menu, you get a choice between a four-course prix fixe at $98, a seven-course Carte Blanche at $175, and a 10-course Le Menu Gourmand at a nominal $235 (ours somehow ended up at $300). To drink, you'll find cocktails by Bartender Mike Guest, but the main draw here is the restaurant's far-reaching selection of wine, over 37,000 bottles, managed by new (ex-Spago) Wine Director Elizabeth Huettinger, who replaces Jesse Rodriguez. Corkage here is a pricey $50, and you're only allowed one bottle; we opted for the wine pairing (at a grimace-inducing $175pp) along with our Gourmand menu. Click for larger versions.

Amuse Bouche: Autumn Pear Gazpacho
We commenced with a pear gazpacho crowned with a dollop of yuzu creameaux. The gazpacho had an almost apple sauce-like bent to it, with plenty of sweet, autumnal spice to go against the creamy, yet tart yuzu cream.

Two of our three bread services then arrived. First was a fantastic sherry-mascarpone gougère, which perfectly blended sugary, cheesy, and buttery in a delightfully creamy, flaky package. That was followed up with lemon-sea salt crostini, which were pretty neat in their own right, their salty and sour notes seemingly increasing in intensity the more you chewed.

1: Kumamoto Oysters | uni, horseradish and lime
Huber - Grüner Veltliner, Obere Steigen, Traisental, Austria 2011
Kumamotos were presented with uni and horseradish cream: a commixture of sweet, sour, lush and buttery nuances finished with a creeping brine toward the end.

Brioche

Next was an excellent homemade brioche, a wonderfully flaky, salty bread served with butter churned in-house.

2: Sea Scallop | spinach, champagne and caviar
Rene Geoffroy, Brut, Premier Cru Cumieres, France NV
A lone scallop appeared crusted in potato, topped with golden osetra caviar and gold flake, all set in a Champagne emulsion with spinach. The scallop itself conveyed a salinity to it that paired superbly with the salty roe, while the broth provided a sort of counterbalancing piquancy to things. The best part here, though, was the use of spinach, which imparted an undertone of astringency to things that brought the entire dish together.

3: Caramelized Sablefish | toasted kale, onions and dashi
Domaine Hüet - Vourvray Sec, Loire Valley, France 2011
Sablefish (a.k.a. black cod) was flawlessly prepared, and came with kale in a dashi-based broth. I loved the fish's utterly soft, buttery nature, moderated by the kale and onion, while the dashi really afforded a fantastic, umami-rich depth to the course.

4: Salmon Rôti « Au Beurre Doux » | beets, apples and mustard
Thierry Richoux - Irancy, Burgundy, France 2010
A fennel pollen-encrusted salmon was super rare, with a posh, buttery brine to it that was augmented by the globules of ikura tossed in, all while the fennel conferred a sort of medicinal slant to the fish. If that wasn't enough, the mustard here gave things a much needed kick in the pants, and the use of beets and apple mixed things up with their sweetness and crunch.

5: French Pumpkin Velouté | porc pressé, pecans and rosemary
Folk Machine - Valdeguié, Redwood Valley, Mendocino, California 2010
Our next course really tasted of the fall season, a rich potage that blended glazed pork, Crème Chantilly, and pecan in a French pumpkin velouté. Think sweet (too sweet for me, actually), spicy, and unabashedly autumnal flavors, moderated by the salty, savory pork and crunch of those nuts.

6: Ris de Veau | broccoli, parmesan and white truffles
Giovanni Rosso - Nebbiolo, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy 2009
Here was one of the more memorable presentations of veal sweetbread I've had, served with broccoli, Parmesan, truffles, and drizzles of veal jus. The rich, earthy relish of the ris was proudly relayed, enhanced by the heady depth of truffle and salty coating of Parm, all while the broccoli was key in providing a touch of brightness and levity to the dish.

7: Coffee Roasted Canard | koshihikari rice, candied peanuts and albufera
Bodegas Chacra - Merlot, "Mainqué," Rio Negro, Patagonia, Argentina 2010
A sliver of magret de canard arrived consummately cooked, replete with wonderfully crisp skin and a delightfully duck-y savor that went well alongside the bittersweet sauce (slightly reminiscent of peanut butter). The accompanying rice with duck confit, shallot, and shishito was arguably even better though, projecting a comforting, Asian-y, umami-laden quality to it that made we want to keep eating--I wouldn't have minded just a big bowl of the stuff.

8: Artisan Cheese Course
Fritz Haag - Riesling, Spätlese, Brauneberger Juffer, Mosel, Germany 2006
With our savories dispensed with, it was time for the requisite cheese course, and we enjoyed five varieties. Going from front to back (and mildest to funkiest), we had:

Acapella - A goat's milk cheese from Petaluma's Andante Dairy, this was one of my favorites with its fruity, creamy palate, laced with a bit of lactic tartness.
Ardi Gasna - This was a sheep's milk varietal from the French Pyrenées; think super nutty, dry, firm, and salty.
Cabot Clothbound - From Vermont's Cabot Creamy came a cow's milk cheese that was tangy and sharp, but with an undercurrent of sweetness--another standout.
Largo - Another one from Andante, the Largo's a triple-cream that was as lush and luxurious as you'd expect, with a delightfully earthy, mushroom-y taste.
Fourme d'Ambert - A classic bleu from Auvergne: tangy, salty, rich, funky, and full of flavor.

9: Sherbet | cranberry and orange
Serving as a bit of an intermezzo was this shooter, which balanced the tartness of orange with a deliciously sweet, creamy character. A welcomed change of pace after the heavy courses preceding.

10: Petite Tartelette | meyer lemon and meringue
A mini Meyer lemon and meringue tart was a fun little treat, blending sour and saccharine in a crisp, flaky crust.

11: Tarte au Chocolat | cherry and pistachio
Kopke - Colheita Port, Portugal 1997
Our proper dessert course featured a pistachio-crusted flourless chocolate tart, garnished with cherry. The cake itself was suitably dense and chocolate-y, so the key was that cherry, which imparted a fruity, tart balance to the course that really worked out well, especially when taken in concert with the crunchy, slighty savory crispy bits here.

Rounding things out was a Tahitian vanilla and chocolate-raspberry macaron, a fitting finish to the meal that gave us the classic pairing of chocolate and vanilla, with the fruit coming forward just on the back end.

Given its rather sleepy setting, I wasn't expecting all that much from Addison. The food, thus, was really a pleasant surprise for me, with Bradley's creations conveying a sort of unfussy sophistication that I quite liked. It's not terribly cutting edge cooking, but what's on the plate here really does deliver, a worthwhile example of the Cal-French aesthetic that we encounter so often at the high-end. As successful as the cookery was though, I was taken aback by the price, which, at $520pp, made this one of the most expensive meals I've ever had. Regular readers of this blog know that I don't have an issue laying down good money for a meal, but it's baffling to me why this ended up at such an extreme. Just to put things into perspective, the only dinners I've had that were pricier were at Urasawa, Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy, and The French Laundry.

Bizarra Capital Restaurant
12706 Philadelphia St, Whittier, CA 90602
562.945.2426
www.facebook.com/BizarraCapital
Thu 01/02/2014, 07:50p-10:15p

Bizarra Capital Exterior

My recent experience at Guisados got me curious about the whereabouts of the restaurant's co-founder, Ricardo Diaz. Diaz, you may recall, was the chef responsible for Monterey Park establishments Cook's Tortas and Dorado's, but it was at Guisados where he really started making a name for himself with his home-style stews and braises. All three of those restaurants were operated in partnership with Armando De La Torre, but Diaz struck out on his own in June 2012 with the debut of Bizarra Capital, sort of Mexican-style "gastropub" named after Ramón López Velarde's poem La Bizarra Capital de mi Estado. He would eventually break things off with De La Torre just months later, and opened Colonia Taco Lounge in August 2013, serving Guisados-style tacos in league with his sister Stephanie Aguirre and her husband Patrick.

Bizarra Capital Interior

Bizarra sits in the building once occupied by an outpost of El 7 Mares, a mini-chain of Mexican eateries that Diaz's grandfather started decades ago. The space has been refreshed, but you can still see the remnants of the former tenant showing through.

As for Bizarra Capital's menu, it's much more varied than what Diaz was dishing out over at Guisados. There are small plates, larger plates, entire sections dedicated to quesadillas and ceviches, and of course, tacos. Click for larger versions.

Meanwhile, to imbibe you'll find some of the cheapest cocktails I've seen a while, some pretty legit beers on tap and in bottles (not to mention your typical Mexican cervezas), and a better-than-you'd-expect wine list. Click for larger versions.

Chips & Salsa

We were quickly presented with what I'll say was the best complementary chips and salsa that I've ever had. The chips were exactly what you'd want, but it was the salsa that surprised me a bit, arriving smooth and a bit watery in consistency, but with a flavor profile that was far more multifaceted than most, a smoky, sweet, spicy, and salty combination that we just ate up.

Agua Fresca Margaritas [$9.00] | daily fresh fruit blends, tequila
We had to give the cocktails a go, and began with this twosome. The Agua Fresca Margarita made use of what I believe was cantaloupe, and really showed off the sweetness of the melon against a boozy backdrop of tequila.

Pepino Vago [$10.00] | Square One vodka, cucumber, lime, cayenne-brown sugar rim
The Pepino Vago, meanwhile, came recommended by our server. He made a good call, with the drink coming out very balanced, with a smoothness to it that really integrated the sweet, tangy flavors here with a whisper of cucumber.

Guacamole [$5.00] | fresh avocado dip made just for you
Guac was an obvious choice for a starter, and definitely didn't disappoint. In fact, it was one of the strongest preparations I've had, with a pleasingly chunky texture to it and a lushness from the avocado that was beautifully paired with contrasting notes of acid. Great alone, and even better when eaten with the accompanying tostada.

Calabacitas [$7.00] | Mexican squash saute, corn, tomato, peppers, queso fresco, morita cream
The calabacitas was a sauté of various veggies, a surprisingly satisfying commingling of different tastes and textures tied together by that crema on top.

Huazontles [$7.00] | wild ranch herbs, egg battered, guajillo-grilled onion salsa, cotija
This was my first experience with huazontle, a Mexican vegetable that's often compared to a sort of elongated broccoli. Here, it's dipped in an egg batter then fried crisp before being slathered in a sauce of onion and chile guajillo. The end result was rather enjoyable, the bitterness of the plant working hand-in-hand with the eggy notes present, all while the salsa imparted a piquancy to the dish. Give it a shot.

(Quesadilla) Huitlacoche [$6.00] | rich corn mushrooms, Oaxacan cheese
The huitlacoche was another ingredient that I don't encounter often. It's known in English, unappetizingly, as corn smut, a type of fungus that infects corn stalks. The quesadillas frita, though, was quite tasty, displaying a deep, earthy, woody, somewhat sweet relish that paired swimmingly against the stringy Oaxacan cheese. Even better with a dab of the wonderfully zippy condiment on the side.

(Ceviche) Mixta [$26.00] | shrimp, clams, octopus, fresh crab, fish, onion, tomato, cilantro, avocado
Next up was quite simply the largest mound of ceviche that I'd ever encountered. It was good though, a traditional example of the dish that deftly presented each item of seafood distinctly, but with the whole mélange effectively conveying the essence of the sea, dutifully perked up by the application of acidity and tartness. Again, lovely over a base of tostada.

Mole Fries [$8.00] | Poblano gravy, melted cheese, grilled onions, french fries
The mole fries (or _anything_ fries, for that matter) is a dish that's just begging to be ordered, and naturally we had to succumb. The fries themselves were about what you'd expect, so the mole was clearly the star of the show, a dark dressing of earthy, deep, sweet, and nutty nuances draped over the comparatively mild batons of potato. I would've appreciated some more astringency from the onions though, to offset the richness of the sauce.

Tuna-Tini [$9.00] | cactus pear syrup, Absolut vodka, Angostura bitters
Time for more cócteles. No, the Tuna-Tini didn't feature tuna the fish, but instead was a prickly pear martini of sorts. The sugariness of the tuna was nicely presented here, but the crux was the kick of spice at the end, which really balanced out the fruit.

Caballito [$9.00] | Maker's Mark bourbon, vermouth, Grand Marnier, mint
The Caballito, meanwhile, was also worth trying, really showing off the boozy nature of the Maker's with enough sweetness from the Grand Marnier, while the finish conveyed just the tracest amount of mint.

Pulpo en Mojo Verde [$14.00] | grilled Mexican octopus, green chile garlic sauce, red potatoes
The pulpo was another must-try for us, and kicked off our more substantial courses of the evening. The octopus itself was tender, yet still had some bite, and gave up a slightly ocean-y taste to it that went superbly against the delightfully tangy mojo. I also appreciated the pairing of the potatoes here, though perhaps they could've been a tad crisper.

Frijoles Charros [$3.00] | pinto beans, bacon chorizo, chile broth
Pintos were elevated here, and were probably the best I've had. They just had a really satisfying, hearty depth to them, the chorizo adding the perfect amount of salt and heat to the beans.

Arroz Verde [$2.00] | cilantro herbed rice, fresh cheese
Along with beans, you gotta have rice, and the version here was, again, top notch. The arroz was a great example of Mexican-style rice, a flawless counter to the frijoles infused with a fantastic brightness from the cilantro.

Taco de Queso [$3.00] | grilled farmer's cheese, potatoes, raw serrano salsa, avocado
Naturally, given Diaz's résumé, we had to sample some of the tacos, and they did not let us down. On this one, the soft cheese just melded wonderfully with the creamy slices of avocado, while the potato perfectly moderated the dish, imparting just the right amount of salt in the process. Delish.

Taco de Chorizo [$4.00] | housemade pork chorizo, fresh cheese, avocado, morita salsa
The chorizo taco was another winner, the spice and savor of the pork forming a great base on which the other ingredients could really commingle. The tortilla was totally on point, too.

Enmoladas de Pollo [$13.00] | dark chocolate mole chicken tacos, roasted seed salsa, Mexican cream
Mole made its second appearance in this quintessential expression of the sauce. Its rich, rather profound balance of sweet, savory, and nutty, amplified by a creeping spice, served as a great complement to the tacos of tender, shredded chicken, with the onions on top adding just a touch of tanginess to the course.

Cochinita Pibil [$12.00] | 3 Yucatan style achiote pork tacos, onion escabeche, habanero cucumbers
Our final savory brought us Diaz's rendition of cochinita pibil, a saucy, sour, citrusy preparation that nicely enrobed the shards of tender pork, with the red onions adding an even further bit of piquancy into the mix. Classic and comfy.

We were all quite stuffed by this point, but ended up ordering all three desserts (they were out of the parfait) to share anyway. Click for a larger version.

Arroz con Leche [$6.00] | Creamy rice pudding, candied citrus, brulee, abuelita chocolate
The rice pudding was a prototypical representation of the dessert: mildly sweet, with a subtle undercurrent of spice. I quite appreciated the crunch of the brûléed bit on top, too.

Flauta de Amor [$6.00] | Rolled Buñuelo, dulce de leche, strawberry compote, anise-chocolate ganache
Buñuelos were fried to a crisp, giving up a sweet, yet savory quality that was evened out by that sugary strawberry compote. Tasty, though I wished they were moister on the inside.

Capirotada [$8.00] | Mexican bread pudding, dates, raisins, orange-cinnamon cream, nuts
The best of the trio was clearly the capirotada, basically a Lenten bread pudding. I found it wonderfully sweet and syrupy, with a delightful base of cinnamon-y spice and some nice textural contrast as well. This is the one to get.

Café de Olla [$3.00] | Aromatic Sweet Coffee
To close: hot mugs of sweetly spiced coffee (and a few sticks of Pocky).

Well, it looks like Diaz has gone and done it again, continuing his trend of killing it with Mexican cookery and greatly contributing to the conversation of cocina mexicana here in the Southland. This meal at Bizarra certainly was one of the tastiest examples of the style I've had, and the food really showed a particular thoughtfulness, verve, and robustness that you just don't find everywhere. Now I'm even more curious about trying out Colonia.

So what's next for Chef Diaz? Well, from what I hear, he and the Aguirres are partnering up again for Duro, an eatery dedicated solely to crispy tacos and flautas. It's set to debut in the coming months at the site of the Siete Mares in Silver Lake, though the adjacent La Playita ceviche stand will remain as-is. Further along, Diaz has also expressed interest in opening up Chorizo Amor, a Mexican sausage-plus-beer concept that was originally slated for the Duro space. Exciting times.

Farm Shop Restaurant
225 26th St, Santa Monica, CA 90402
310.566.2400
www.farmshopla.com
Thu 01/09/2014, 07:40p-10:50p

Farmshop Exterior

This week's dining adventure brought me to Farmshop at the Brentwood Country Mart, a place that I'd been mildly curious about ever since its debut in November 2010 (though dinner service commenced almost a year later, thanks to delays with the beer-and-wine license). It's an all-day dining-slash-bakery-slash-market concept from Chef/Owner Jeffrey Cerciello, a Thomas Keller Restaurant Group veteran who previously headed up all of TK's casual dining spots. The cooking is billed as "seasonal California cuisine" and the place also offers wine, cheese, charcuterie, and other artisanal-y type things for sale (the "shop" part of the joint).

About the Chef Patron: Cerciello grew up in the OC, Laguna Hills specifically, though his childhood wasn't particularly culinarily focused. He attended Cal Poly Pomona with the goal of attaining a business degree, but fell in love with cooking while helping out in a family friend's kitchen. This led him to switch majors to Hotel and Restaurant Management, and after graduation, he found a position at the Surf & Sand Resort in Laguna Beach, cooking under Chef Claude Koeberle (currently owner of Soliste Wines). Following, Cerciello enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, and during this time worked two summer stages in Spain: at El Bulli under Ferran Adrià and at Totel under Francisco "Paco" Torreblanca. He finished his studies in 1993, and eventually made his way to Napa to help open the Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant at the CIA's St. Helena campus.

From there, Cerciello secured an internship at the then unknown French Laundry, which had just been taken over by Thomas Keller in 1994. The internship turned into a fulltime job on the line in 1995, and he stayed there until 1998, when Bouchon opened. Cerciello would eventually become the Executive Chef of the place, and later was named Director of Casual Dining for all of Keller's restaurants (which includes Ad Hoc). However, he would leave in 2010 to work on his first solo project, Farmshop, but not before trying his hand at Vita, an Italian concept in Yountville planned in partnership with Laura Cunningham (former GM of Per Se and French Laundry, TK's fiancée, and also his sister-in-law). The restaurant never came to fruition though, and was cancelled in 2011.

Farmshop, meanwhile, bowed at the end of 2010 with Chef de Cuisine Joshua Drew at the helm. Drew, for his part, started out at the original Bouchon in 2004 before moving to Quince in San Francisco and Vetri in Philadelphia. His last position prior to Farmshop was that of Sous Chef at Ad Hoc. Also on the opening team were Director of Operations Michel Darmon (yet another TK alum, who also spent time at Guy Savoy) and Pastry Chef/Head Baker Brittainy Turnquist, a Bouchon Bakery veteran who has since decamped. Note that Cerciello opened a second branch of Farmshop recently in the Bay Area, set in the Marin Country Mart at Larkspur Landing. That one's run by Chef Mark Hopper, who, unsurprisingly, worked for Thomas Keller in the past as well.

Farmshop Dining Room

Farmshop resides at the address previously occupied by City Bakery. The space was revamped by Commune Design in collaboration with Cerciello's wife Kira Cunningham, the restaurant's Creative Director. One side of the room holds the market, while on the other, it's a comfy, cozy sort of vibe with those teal velvet banquettes (one side backed by the open kitchen), large expanses of dark walnut, B&W photo mural, and the requisite communal table. It may not be groundbreaking, but it works, really well apparently, as the restaurant received a 2013 James Beard Foundation nomination for its design.

Farmshop's menu has a sort of modern-rustic Cal-Med thing going on. Though the restaurant opened with a four-course, Ad Hoc-inspired family-style menu, the idea was quickly replaced with the à la carte selections we see today: basically small plates, large plates, sides. To drink, think Cali-centric beer, a solid selection of wines, and lightweight cocktails (there's no full liquor license). Click for a larger version.

Morro Bay Pacific Gold Oysters [$8.50] | local garcia organics mango, pickled lime & vadouvan
The Chef sent us oysters to start, and they were something else, sweet initially, but with an undercurrent of vadouvan spice that crept up and lingered long on the finish. I'd never had anything quite like it before in an oyster, and it's one of those where I'm not sure if I liked it or not.

Hawaiian Kanpachi Tartare [$16.50] | schaner farm oro blanco grapefruit, pineapple guava & radishes
Our next course, meanwhile, was even more intriguing. The fish itself I found clean, and just a touch fatty, but the crux here was that combo of fruit and radish, which made for a great bittersweetness on the close that worked surprisingly well against the kanpachi. Loved the crunch of those radishes, too. Très cool.

Dungeness Crab on Toast [$16.50] | weiser farm parsnips, sour apple, sweet peppers, lemon & brioche
The crab toast came on the recommendation of our server, and definitely did not disappoint. Served hot and heaping here, the crab was the hero, conveying its sweet, saline flavors admirably with just a hint of overarching citrus-y zip. Very satisfying.

Chicken Liver Mousse [$14.00] | whiskey-maple gelee, pickled watermelon cucumbers & burnt onion jam
Our server highly recommended the chicken liver as well, and he was spot on. In fact, it was one of the best I've had, reminding us of the version from the nearby Tavern, actually (when Gavin Mills used to work there). It was just utterly smooth, velvety, with a subtle, yet profound earthy twang to it that paired flawlessly with the sweet stratum of gelée on top.

Gioia Burrata [$16.00] | smoked trout caviar, crown maple syrup, scallion & clark street's whole wheat
The burrata, too, was one of the more interesting plates I'd had. The key here was the great interplay between the lush, creamy cheese and the salty roe, all with an apparent, yet subdued undercurrent of sweetness from the maple. Really nice when taken with the bread.

Speck Ham Risotto Fritters [$13.00] | chanterelle mushrooms, franklin's teleme cheese & spiced red kuri squash
Our final small plate consisted of four arancini, which were just what you'd want from the rice balls: hearty, satisfying bites with just enough cheesiness, though I wasn't quite as keen on the spicy-sweet squash.

Pasta Mancini Spaghetti [$24.00] | arrow-tip pacific squid braised in ink, turnip greens, hot peppers & malt aioli
Squid ink spaghetti was a winner, properly textured and tasting of the ocean, with the squid itself adding a great textural counterpoint in the dish. The aioli served as an effective tempering element to the pasta, but I wouldn't have minded a bit more heat here.

Smashed Nantes Carrots [$8.00] | drake family farm goat cheese, black garlic & niçoise olive tapenade
Carrots, though, went overly sweet for me, and the tapenade seemed only to amplify those flavors. The goat cheese, on the other hand, did help bring things down a notch.

County Line Harvest Chicory Gratin [$8.00] | parmesan, béchamel & biscuit breadcrumbs
I'm a fan of almost anything au gratin, and this was no exception. I loved how the bitter crunch of the chicory was so proudly conveyed here, set against the comparative luxuriousness of the béchamel.

Octopus a la Plancha [$27.00] | rutiz farm shelling beans, saffron weiser farm potatoes, roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, mixed baby kales & tomato kasundi
The last savory was my favorite dish of the night, and one of the strongest presentations of octopus I've had in a while. It was also one of the most tender, really challenging the preparation at Bestia, and showed off a lovely char that definitely worked for me. I also appreciated the additional savoriness provided by the maitakes, while the beans and potatoes grounded the course. This is the one to get.

Though we were quite full by this point, dessert was nevertheless a must. Click for a larger version.

Coolhaus Ice Cream Sandwich [$6.00]
Since I'd never tried Coolhaus before, we went for one of their ice cream sammies, this one featuring Brown Butter Candied Bacon. I found it expectedly tasty, though I didn't get much bacon at all.

Candy Cap Pot de Crème [$8.00] | SQIRL raspberry & vanilla jam, palmiers
The pot de crème, meanwhile, was much more special. The custard itself was certainly commendable, but what surprised me was the candy cap mushroom, and how closely it imitated the sticky qualities of maple syrup. It was quite something, and I loved the flaky, buttery puff pastry cookies here too as an accompaniment.

Given the clientele in the area, I wasn't expecting all that much coming in here, but Drew's cooking undoubtedly went above and beyond my presumptions of the place. You get that Californian-Mediterranean flair with the food, sure, and the execution is on point, yes, but the kitchen is putting out some plates that truly go beyond the norm, with flavor profiles and combinations that veer way more ambitious than they need to be. In fact, I was so pleasantly surprised that I have to wonder if Farmshop is really the right stage for the Chef. We shall see, I suppose.

Kiyokawa Restaurant
265 S Robertson Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211
310.358.1900
Wed 12/04/2013, 08:00p-11:05p

One of the more interesting Japanese restaurants to come up in recent years has been Kiyokawa, an unassuming eatery located at the very edge of Beverly Hills known for the Chef's eminently seasonal, whimsically-presented omakase dinners. The place is the work of 52-year-old Satoshi Kiyokawa, a Kobe native who's been in the States since 1997. He previously worked at Bishamon in Covina before opening up his eponymous restaurant in late 2005. Kiyokawa sort of flew under the radar for several years, before being "discovered" by Jonathan Gold back in 2009. Since then, it's been a bit of a favorite among LA's Japanese-eating populace, so I figured it was time for me to finally give the place a go.

As is the case for many Japanese establishments, the standard bill of fare here is to be largely ignored in favor of the Chef's ever-changing omakase experience (priced at $95). In fact, we didn't even glance at the regular carte, and didn't order off the drink menu above either, choosing instead to bring our own beverages (corkage is $30 a bottle). Click for larger versions.

Furitta

1: Furitta
Our first course comprised a quartet of seafood fritters. Going clockwise from top-right, we had: a fantastic Spanish mackerel, ginger, and scallion ball coated in rice cracker, the savory fishiness of the sawara balanced by the zing of shoga; monkfish and monkfish liver, with the mild, firm fish giving way to the earthy center of ankimo; a delightful shrimp and eggplant, the brine of the ebi perfectly tempered by the lightness of the vegetable; and finally, a superbly saline, succulent scallop, tinged with the essence of truffle butter. A thoroughly enjoyable start to the meal.

2: Mebachi no Tarutaru
Bigeye tuna from Hawaii arrived marinated in soy and wasabi, then topped with a dashi-egg white foam and a dollop of okra gel, the whole shebang sitting in what must've been the tallest goblet I'd ever encountered. The fish itself was clean and slick, with a depth to it that was enhanced by the heat of wasabi, all while the foam imparted an additional creamy complexity to the course. I was torn about the okra though, since it gave the dish a sort of gooey, gelatinous consistency, but also provided a much needed bit of levity at the same time.

Jiorama

3: Zensai Jiorama
Our next course was part of the new holiday omakase menu, introduced just days prior, and it was, without a doubt, the craziest plating that I'd ever witnessed. Situated in a large orange gift box was a diorama (crafted by the Chef himself) depicting a sleigh-pulling reindeer being ticketed by an officer driving a Toyota Prius. Set in the scene were five separate little snacks: an applewood-smoked trout with daikon, a nicely smoky, almost hammy bite moderated by the crunch of the radish; a Washington oyster with an earthy-sweet miso sauce, my least favorite item here with its sort of heavy-handed flavors; king crab with cucumber, the sweet brine of the crustacean evened out by the bright kyuri; a snowman of taro, with the starchy root vegetable going alongside a filling of ocean-y sea urchin; and lastly, coconut and snow crab claw, paired with saltine, which recalled an hors d'œuvre you might expect to see at someone's dinner party in the 70's.

Kan-Chiku Jun-Mai Dai-Ginjyo

Terroni somm Michael Nemcik (Sirena, LudoBites, Farmshop, Sotto, Lucques Catering, AOC, Tavern) was alongside us tonight, and unsurprisingly, he brought with him some great booze for us all to share. Most impressive was his magnum of Kanchiku Junmai Daiginjo from Nagano's Totsuka Shuzo brewery, a sake that's only brewed during the sub-freezing winter months. The result of the process is a wonderfully dry, light, smooth sake, one with a balance of floral, earthy, and boozy notes over an omnipresent undercurrent of rice-y nuances--superb.

Sashimi

4: Sashimi
Set in an LED-lit glass building block, replete with ice cave, was our sashimi course, featuring four varieties of fish served with fresh wasabi on a miniature sharkskin oroshigane (so kawaii!). Bluefin from Spain was classically dense and meaty, with a rich savor that was amped up with a touch of shoyu. The halibut, on the other hand, was utterly clean and mild, a perfect canvas on which to apply soy and 'sabi, while the amberjack was more full flavored, with a delightfully snappy texture to boot. Last up was the Santa Barbara abalone, as crunchy and ocean-y as you'd expect.

5: Hamachi to Daikon no Nimono
Next up was a traditional Japanese winter dish, composed of baby yellowtail and two-day long-cooked daikon. The radish was the star here, coming out super tender and just teeming with sweet, savory flavors, an umami-bomb that perfectly balanced out the ocean-y character of the fish. Homey and comforting, this was a standout course.

Satoshi Kiyokawa

Above, we see Satoshi-san diligently preparing our sushi course...

Sushi

...The end result of which was a pretty beautiful plate of the stuff.

Otoro

6a: Otoro
First to bat was the blue fin belly, an unabashedly fatty, yet sinewy cut of the fish that really needed the wasabi to balance out its heft.

6b: Kinmedai
Golden eye snapper was as excellent as always, the yuzukosho here really adding a salty-spicy kick to the fish that paired swimmingly with the slight char of the skin. A favorite.

6c: Nijimasu
Wild ocean trout was another winner, the smoked soy here imparting a fantastic counterpoint to the lushness of the fish.

Sawara

6d: Sawara
Spanish mackerel was also spot on, its brine pairing in classic fashion with the scallion and ginger, while a touch of miso gave us just a little something extra.

Uni

6e: Uni
Last but certainly not least was Santa Barbara uni with truffle butter. Here, I just loved how the sweet-saline nature of the urchin played with the heady flavors of that truffle.

Hotate

Hotate [$4.50]
At this point, we were done with the savories, and opted for two additional nigiri courses. First was this Hokkaido scallop dusted with karasumi, a smart presentation of the bivalve wherein its sweetness served as a great foil to the saltiness of the mullet roe.

Inada

Inada [$4.00]
Next was baby yellowtail, a snappy, leaner, more contemplative version of the fish that was opened up nicely by that mound of wasabi on top.

For dessert, Michael opened up a half bottle of the 2005 Château d'Arche Sauternes. I rather liked this one, finding it honeyed and fruity and viscous sure, but also a bit more restrained, a bit more austere than usual for the style, with perhaps less spice and acid than I'm accustomed to.

7: Yuzu Sorube
Here was a housemade yuzu sorbet, with its superb balance of sweet and sour making it an affective palate cleansing course.

8: Dezato Bento
Dessert arrived in bento box form. Starting from the lower-right and going clockwise, we had: a sugary Moscato ice wine gelée, which melded nicely with the Sauternes; the excellent homemade black sesame ice cream, which blended nutty, earthy, and sweet flavors in an almost peanut butter-like taste; chestnut and wonderfully floral Earl Grey black tea tarts; and lasty, a bittersweet green tea tiramisu with an almost fluffy texture to it.

Kiyokawa's creations were even more fanciful than I'd imagined, and quite unlike that of any other Japanese place in LA. Don't let that distract you from the cooking though, which, save for a few quibbles, was largely effective. The Chef's presentations, though, can be polarizing, and they definitely were in our party, the diorama course in particular. Some of my dining companions yearned for a much more minimalist aesthetic, devoid of any of the playful touches we see here. I can certainly see their point; the focus should be on the food, after all. At the same time though, I don't really have a major problem with it, as long as the cooking doesn't suffer. And, with pretty much every other Japanese chef veering toward pared-down plating, the change of pace doesn't hurt, either. In the end, just come in knowing what to expect.

Amor y Tacos Restaurant
13333 South St, Cerritos, CA 90703
562.860.2667
www.amorytacos.com
Sat 01/11/2014, 07:35p-09:35p

Amor y Tacos Exterior

My latest outing brought me close to home with Amor y Tacos, Thomas Ortega's new Mexican eatery that opened recently in the spot formerly occupied by the longstanding King Dragon Chinese restaurant. The Chef grew up in the area, and was even childhood friends with Naga Shibutani from Costa Mesa's Shibucho. After graduating from Cerritos High School, he enrolled at the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena, finishing his studies there in 1999. Ortega then spent time at Aubergine in Newport Beach, as well as LA mainstays Water Grill (under Michael Cimarusti), Lucques, Spago, and Patina. In 2008, he opened up his own place, Ortega 120 in Redondo Beach, in partnership with Demi Stevens, which led to a guest stint on Hell's Kitchen alongside John Sedlar. The success of 120 paved the way for Amor y Tacos, which bowed last October. Interestingly, Ortega's Chef de Cuisine here is none other than Eric Carpo, a Las Vegas transplant who previously cooked at Guy Savoy and Joël Robuchon.

Amor y Tacos Interior

Inside, things are about what you'd expect, like a slightly toned down version of the decor at the Chef's other restaurant.

The menu reads in a similar vein to the one at Ortega 120, with updated iterations of Mexican comfort staples. Click for larger versions.

To drink, there's a pretty good beer selection, not to mention cocktails and a smattering of better-than-you'd-imagine wines. Click for larger versions.

Chips and Salsa

I was quite enamored with the chips 'n' salsa. The chips themselves were nicely crisp, and even "puffy," while the salsa tasted sweet and smoky at first, but with a great touch of growing heat on the back end. Try not to fill up on these.

Mescal Mule [$8.00] | skyy ginger/monte alban mescal/ginger beer/lime/agave/squirt
We went with a couple cocktails to begin. I chose the Mescal Mule, since it featured Squirt, my favorite soda (especially in Ruby Red form). Unfortunately, I really didn't get much mezcal here at all; it could've just been any sort of tequila with the vaguely agave-esque flavors I tasted. The drink was also on the water-y side, and the ginger and lime could've been more apparent, too.

Estilo Viejo [$7.00] | buffalo trace/sugar/cherry bitters/soda water
The Estilo Viejo was more successful, the Buffalo Trace coming to the forefront here against a balance of sweet and citrus-y notes, though I wanted the cherry bitters to be more pronounced.

Slow Roasted Porkbelly Steamed Bun "tacos" [$11.00] | Cucumber, radish, cilantro, red onion, chipotle-agave gastrique
It's been years since David Chang popularized his pork buns at Momofuku, but the concept is still fresh here in Cerritos, so we gave 'em a try. It was a pretty tasty execution of the ubiquitous dish, the belly coming out sweet, smoky, and savory, tempered by the various greenery present. There was a bit too much of the gastrique present though, and it tended to make the buns overly soggy, resulting in a messy affair.

Mole Tots [$7.50] | crispy potato tater tots, 21 ingredient house made Amor mole, queso panela, cilantro, red onion, sour cream
I'm a sucker for Tater Tots, and here they delivered as my favorite dish of the night. Every element just came together beautifully, making for a well-integrated course that really tied the mole together with its various accoutrements. I just wish that the tots were warmer/crisper.

South East Dog [$9.00] | 16oz Doyer dog, short rib chile Colorado, mustard, mayo, shaved red onion, cilantro, queso fresco, crispy chicharron, brioche hot dog buns
Next was Ortega's take on the "Doyer Dog," which, in case you didn't know, is an official variation of the classic Dodger Dog served at the stadium. This one was much, much better I'm sure, the frankfurter itself spot on and wonderfully savory, augmented by the deep, dark flavors of the short rib while the various toppings provided a modicum of balance to the dish. As delish and over-the-top as it looks.

Ceviche de Camaron [$10.00] | crisp tostadas, lime marinated shrimp, jalapeno aioli, tomato, cucumber, avocado, cilantro, onion
The restaurant's version of the classic Mexican ceviche was on point as well. It was a light, refreshing sort of dish, the snappy, sweet shrimp melding swimmingly with the various tart, tangy toppings while the tostada on the bottom gave us a great textural contrast.

O' 120 Ahi Poke Taco [$12.00] | sushi grade yellow fin tuna poke, sesame vinaigrette, guacamole, crispy wonton skin, roasted corn chimichurri, radish, wasabi cream
Following was a dish ostensibly ported over from the menu at Ortega 120. It presented us with prototypical Asian fusion-y sort of flavors, with the clean, delicate tuna giving way to the crunchy, savory shells, the various condiments moderating the whole interaction.

Nacho Libre [$10.00] | corn chips, queso Oaxaca, kobe ground beef, sour cream, cilantro, roasted tomatoes, green onion
Nachos were quite satisfying, one of the better preparations of the dish I've had actually: just great chips, and a nice complexity and interplay between the sundry toppings, all bound together by an undercurrent of heat. Yum.

At this point, we requested a bomber of the Cucapá Runaway IPA [$9], a Mexican craft beer that you don't find around these parts very often. It was good though; you had your classic IPA flavors, with a lot of caramel-y malt to offset the citric, bitter notes in the brew.

Tour de Taco [$14.00] | Tinga de Pollo/Carne Asada/Short Rib/Carnitas/Rajas con Queso
Naturally, we wanted to try as many of the tacos as possible, and since they normally come in sets of three (unfortunate), we had to opt for the Tour and its five varieties (right to left):

Tinga de Pollo w/ salsa verde, cotija, cilantro, radish - A touch dry perhaps, but rather tasty, with a fantastic amount of creeping spice to it and a lovely radish counter.
Carnitas w/ Amor salsa y salsa avocado, pickled onion, cotija, micro cilantro - Tender and loaded with sweet spice, the pickled onion giving us a bit of piquancy.
Carne Asada w/ Amor salsa, avocado, cotija, micro cilantro, charred green onion - Classic asada goodness here, with the accompaniments doing a great job complementing the meat.
Short Rib w/ burnt habanero crema, roasted caramelized onion, queso fresco, micro cilantro, pickled radish - Super tender, with deep flavors underscored by sweet onion.
Rajas con Queso w/ Amor salsa, cilantro, queso fresco, pickled carrots - Probably my fav of the bunch, with the cheese working beautifully with the peppers.

The tacos also came with a side of rice and beans. Nothing groundbreaking here, but a solid interpretation of the two staples.

Churros w/Salted Caramel [$5.50] | sugar & canela, salted cajeta
We finished with churros, a satisfying version of the dessert, the pastry coming out hot and crisp, with a blast of sugary sweetness that went along superbly with a dab of that salty cajeta.

I'm glad to see Amor y Tacos open up in my part of town. Ortega's renditions of Mexican (-American) classics mostly work, and are a great value to boot (the portions were quite large--we took a bunch of stuff home). At the same time though, it'd be nice to see tighter, more composed plates, along with some more ambitious flavor profiles, sort of along the lines of what's going on at Bizarra Capital. Cocktails, meanwhile, could use a bit of sprucing up I have to say. In the end though, you have to look at context here, and given that it's Cerritos, I can't complain too much. In fact, the restaurant is already earning a place in my local, everyday dining rotation.

Xian Wei Private Dinner Series
San Pedro, CA 90731
www.xian-wei.com
Sat 01/25/2014, 06:00p-09:30p

Los Angeles' newest underground supper club debuted on January 18th, and just might be our City's first dedicated to Chinese cookery. Xian Wei ("savory" in Mandarin, roughly), though, doesn't do traditional O.G. S.G.V. Chinese dishes, nor does it offer up the slick, international interpretations of places such as Hakkasan. Rather, the food of 19-year-old Chef Luther Chen represents an attempt to present a decidedly modern slant on the cuisine. The project is a joint effort between Chen, business manager Kenny Liu, and "curator"-slash-marketer Clarissa Wei, whom you've probably heard of from her extensive coverage of the Chinese scene here in LA. The dinners are held at a private residence in San Pedro, and seatings are limited to eight people at a time.

About the Chef: A SoCal native, Luther Bob Chen was raised in Arcadia, where he was able to enjoy all that the Valley had to offer in terms of traditional Chinese cooking. Driven by an interest in food, he started his career in the biz in 2012 while still a senior in high school, working at AKA bistro in Pasadena. After graduating that summer from Arcadia High, he started at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park to solidify his foundations in classic French technique. Following his first year there, Chen moved down south to Georgia to extern at the Sea Island Resort, cooking at The Georgian Room at The Cloister under Executive Chef Daniel Zeal. He was mentored by Zeal, his boss David Carrier, as well as the resort's Exec Chef Jonathan Jerusalmy. During this period, he also worked a second job as garde manger at Southern Tide at The Beach Club, another one of the property's eateries.

His stint in Georgia complete, Chen took an academic pause from the CIA and travel to China and Taiwan for two months, really absorbing the food culture there. He returned Stateside reinvigorated and with a newfound passion for the regional variations of the cuisine, and then decided that he was going to dedicate his career to Chinese-inspired cooking. To that effect, he started the Xian Wei series earlier this year, and is also working on Shao Kao BBQ, a new food truck featuring Chinese street food-style barbeque skewers.

Luther Chen

Before the dinner, Chen was interviewed for a piece on KCRW.

Xian Wei's seven-course menu features five main dishes, each paying homage to a specific regional cuisine of China, joined by an amuse and dessert. The cost is $75, or $110 with wine pairing, and BYOB is definitely an option. Click for a larger version.

I made sure to take full advantage of the BYO policy and brought along six beers to share: Bootlegger's Old World Hefeweizen, Birrificio Barley Toccadibò, Allagash Interlude, Cismontane T.J. Slough, Noble Ale Works Citra Showers, and Pretty Things Baby Tree. All ended up being quite lovely in their own right, and not too shabby with the food, either.

Pig Face

We commenced with a "bonus" course--composed on the fly--featuring pig snout that'd been pressure-cooked with clove, star anise, and cinnamon, enrobed in a Sichuan hot bean paste, then draped with disks of daikon and sprinkled with wood sorrel (that the Chef foraged himself) and cilantro oil. I think this nicely captured Chen's culinary aesthetic, an elegant ode to Chinese flavors with the earthy, deep savor of the pork perfectly balanced against the juicy crunch of daikon and overarching brightness of cilantro, all with a great lingering heat underscoring the entire dish. A very good start.

sesame

1: sesame | 30-second microwave sesame cake, sesame salt, fermented bean curd
Serving as a sort of amuse were two shards of the iSi-charged "aerated brioche" popularized by the likes of Michael Voltaggio. The ones here utilized a sesame seed paste mixed with batter, and came with two accompaniments. First was a version topped with sesame salt, which definitely enhanced the inherent nuttiness of the batter. The second, meanwhile, featured fermented bean paste, so it showed off a great tanginess and depth to go along with the light, airy cake.

2: sichuan pickles | daikon, cucumber, wood ear mushroom, sichuan peppercorn
We were encouraged to eat this next course in one bite, and I think that was key. With all the elements in place, everything just came together. The textures were satisfying, especially the springy, spongy wood ear, and the confluence of sweet, sour, and creeping spice made for some great transitions on the palate, all tied together by that Szechuan peppercorn vinaigrette. Very neat.

3: anhui tofu | fresh tofu, bean curd broth, quahog
Chen's take on tofu seemed to be a table favorite, and with good reason. The broth here was pretty amazing, a heady, aromatic, and yes, xian concoction that melded beautifully with the silky, subtly sweet curd. At the same time, the use of clams effectively heightened the savoriness of the course, and there was even a ginger-y, offsetting sort of tartness that I rather liked.

Xian Wei Prep

Assistant Laura helps with the plating.

4: shanghai 85° xlb | head-to-toe berkshire pork, chesapeake crab
Chen had been busy working on his xiaolongbao prior to the dinner, and the version he turned out this evening was commendable. Made with a commixture of Berkshire pork belly, snout, shoulder, and trotters, it was a "head-to-tail" XLB that was easily the most porcine example I'd ever tasted, truly conveying the unmitigated essence of the animal. If that wasn't enough, the soup dumpling was enrobed in a veil of gingery aromatics and a smoky tinge from a layer of mesquite wood chips underneath, both of which worked hand-in-hand to complement the intensity of the Virginia ham-based broth. The final touch was a drizzle of Chinkiang vinegar to complete the dish. My concern here? I really would've liked to have tasted more from the crab.

5: guangdong yu | cured white pomfret, fermented young sprouts, burnt tomatillo
Next was a presentation of pomfret, Guangdong-style, and cooked en papillote. The result was arguably the strongest presentation of the fish I've had, the subtle salinity of the chang yu working sublimely against the piquancy of tomatillo and the light, bright nuances from the cilantro, pea shoot, and sprouts in particular. However, I wanted a meatier, more substantial piece of the fish so that I could've better appreciated the various tastes and textures going on here.

6: xinjiang shaokao | chinese street barbeque lamb, eggplant, cultured soy yogurt, leaves of young peas
The meal's climax brought us a gorgeous cut of lamb, one done rare, but not too rare, with a particularly mouthwatering savor to it enhanced by the spicy, cumin-y notes in the meat. A streak of homemade soy yogurt provided an effective cooling component on the plate, and I was quite a fan of the greenery here as well, not to mention the smokiness of the roasted Thai eggplant on the side. It was certainly one of the tastiest presentations of lamb that I'd had in a while.

taro

7: taro | textures of ice, taro cremeux, tapioca, brown sugar chestnut
Chinese desserts aren't exactly my cup of tea generally, but Chen's cloched finisher here didn't let me down. Taro arrived cooked in coconut milk, the subtle sweetness of the root playing well with the sugary chestnuts and making for a cohesive whole. Some lovely textures, too.

I wasn't sure what to expect coming in to this, but I see a lot of promise in Chen's food here. Traditional tastes were twisted, remixed with a certain elegance and an eye toward modernity, but the results still properly displayed the essence of Chinese cuisine, and were delicious to boot. Flavors were robust, yet nuanced, not to mention deep and well-developed, exuding a certain focus and restraint uncommon in the style. As far as I know, there's no one else doing this kind of cooking, and I'm very curious as to where the Chef takes this all. As for what's next in the immediate future, Chen plans to continue this dinner series, but is also hard at work getting his Shao Kao barbeque truck going (I believe there's going to be a Kickstarter). Personally, I can see the truck turning into a small brick-and-mortar restaurant, with a "chef's counter" or similar area set up to present these sort of multi-course tasting menus. This is one I'm going to have to keep an eye out for.

Herringbone Restaurant
8440 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
323.848.6000
www.herringboneeats.com/los-angeles/
Fri 01/24/2014, 08:10p-11:00p

Los Angeles' first major "celebrity chef" opening of the year comes to us from Brian Malarkey, whom you may know from his appearance on Top Chef and dwindling restaurant empire down in San Diego. On January 17th, he debuted the second outpost of his "Fish Meats Field" concept Herringbone, set at the Mondrian Los Angeles and replacing the space's former tenant, Asia de Cuba. The eatery, thus, joins the ranks of Enlightened Hospitality Group's other fabric-related projects--Searsucker, Burlap, Gabardine--all of which specialize in "social dining," which you can take to mean that the spot is going to be sort of a scene.

About the Chef: Born in 1972, Malarkey grew up on a ranch in Bend, Oregon, and got interested in the culinary arts through his grandmother and her friend James Beard (yes, that James Beard). He eventually made his way to Portland's Western Culinary Institute, and graduated from its Le Cordon Bleu program in 1994. Following, he moved to Los Angeles, where he cooked under Michel Richard at Citrus, before embarking on a culinary tour of Europe and North Africa. Malarkey then made his way back Stateside and became Sous Chef at the Oceanaire Seafood Room in Minnesota in 2001, but quickly moved to Oceanaire's Seattle outpost as Executive Sous. He stayed there until 2004, then went down to San Diego to open Oceanaire in Downtown as Executive Chef and partner. In 2007, he achieved national attention as a finalist on Top Chef Season 3, and ended up leaving Oceanaire in 2009, ostensibly to spend more time with his family.

Following the departure, Malarkey teamed with nightlife guru James Brennan to start the Enlightened Hospitality Group, and they launched their first project, Searsucker, in San Diego's Gas Lamp district in July 2010. The place was a hit, and its success allowed the duo to open other restaurants, as well as their own catering company, Campine, with Antonio Friscia. July 2011 saw the debut of Burlap in Del Mar, a sort of "West meet East" fusion-y type place headed by Anthony Sinsay, while Ginham arrived in La Mesa in January 2012. Enlightened's fourth concept, a seafooder called Gabardine, bowed in March that year in Point Loma, and the first Herringbone was revealed in May, helmed by Top Chef alumna Amanda Baumgarten. Malarkey then took an unexpected detour when he invested in Olubugo, a restaurant in Uganda that benefits the AIDS non-profit Aidchild. He rounded out the year with the premiere of Searsucker Scottsdale, the release of his cookbook Come Early, Stay Late, and the introduction of casual cafe concept Green Acre at the Nautilus life sciences campus.

2013 kicked off with Malarkey's appearance on ABC's The Taste, though he hit some bumps that year as well. Ginham ended up shuttering in May after rumors of EHG shopping the place around, while Burlap closed in June. Sinsay was supposed to stay on during the transition, but jumped ship to La Villa, and Baumgarten decamped from Herringbone around the same time, too. On the positive side, Searsucker Austin got underway in May; Searsucker Del Mar commenced similarly in July, set in the old Burlap space; and another outlet of Green Acre opened at Campus Pointe.

2014, finally, has been quite active so far for Malarkey and company. In early January, Gabardine ceased doing business, as did Searsucker in Scottsdale. More surprisingly, a majority stake in Enlightened was sold (for a rumored $28 million) to Hakkasan Ltd, a global restaurant group backed by Tasameem, the property arm of the Abu Dhabi sovereign wealth fund. This all brings us back to Herringbone WeHo, the first project of EHGRP's under its new ownership that opened with Anthony Sinsay once again back at Malarkey's side as Chef de Cuisine.

Herringbone Interior

Herringbone takes over the old 7,500sqft Asia de Cuba spot, and the space has been revamped by longtime Malarkey collaborator Thomas Shoos. I think beach house living room is what they were going for, if that makes sense, with Schoos' trademark eclecticism present but somewhat restrained. It's a pretty comfy, warm space, though too dim (as in need-to-use-your-phone-to-read-the-menu dim).

As far as Herringbone's menu goes, it's described by the Chef as "twists" on classic comfort dishes. It's not that far off from the menu down in San Diego (though there certainly are WeHo-specific items such as the asada fries), and still features the restaurant's signature blend of seafood, remixed with meat. Meanwhile, to drink, you've got a few somewhat-interesting cocktails, a decent wine list, and a smattering of beers. Click for larger versions.

Painted Elephant [$14.00] | Pineapple Infused Bacardi, Lime Juice, Simple Syrup, Basil
The Painted Elephant drank like a mojito, not surprising given its ingredients, though the basil did impart a bit of a slant on the classic flavors.

Bad Bad T-Roy Brown [$14.00] | Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Carpano Sweet Vermouth, Sugar Cube, Orange, Cherry, Bitters
Slightly more interesting was the Bad Bad T-Roy Brown, which played a boozy base of bourbon against some pleasant bittersweet notes. Nicely integrated.

Lamb & Smoked Salmon Tartare [$15.00] | shallot, caper, quail egg, pretzel crackers
We got started with a tartar that commingled lamb with salmon. It worked out really quite well, the smoky flavors of the fish pairing smartly with the meat, all while the shallots and capers added a bit of zing to the dish. A commendable take on the Continental classic, and one of the highlights of the meal.

Hamachi & Duck Crackl'n Crudo [$16.00] | smoked grape, pickled serrano gribiche
The hamachi crudo also worked things out, with the clean, just-fatty-enough fish accented by the salty crunch of the cracklings and the tang of the serrano gribiche.

Chicken Liver Mousse & Caviar [$18.00] | quince paste, calvados macerated green apple, brioche
The last of our cold appetizers was the liver. Here you had the sweetness of the fruit, the saltiness of the caviar, and the earthy smack of the offal. The elements made sense alone, but somehow when taken at the same time, it didn't all come together, and the liver just didn't sing.

Extra Special Peter Rabbit [$17.00] | Pimms #1, House Infused Cucumber Gin & Basil Lemonade
For something lighter, the Extra Special Peter Rabbit gave up a lemonade-y air to it, the sweet-spicy base of Pimm's working nicely alongside the aromatics of the basil, with the gin adding just a hint of cucumber to the mix.

Wood Fired Octopus [$16.00] | sweet potato, mojo verde, piquillo pepper
As you might know by now, I'm quite the sucker for octopus, but the version here didn't live up to expectations sadly. The tentacles were just too chewy, and although there was a great bit of char, the flavors were on the muddled side and needed to be developed further. More of that tangy mojo wouldn't have hurt, either.

Carne Asada Fries 'SD in LA'

Carne Asada Fries "SD in LA" [$13.00] | shortrib, avocado, crema, pico, cheddar
Asada fries are a late night staple of mine, so this was obviously a must-try for me (and you too, probably). I was expecting the kitchen to turn out an uppity version of the dish, but no, this was legit, and just as satisfying as what you might find at Alberto's (or Alerto's), but with better quality ingredients. Yum.

Shrimp & Grits [$14.00] | linguica, orange, fennel, nora's chili
Shrimp 'n' grits is another one of those things that I have a hard time not ordering. Herringbone's, though, fell short. The shrimp were a tad overdone, but more concerning were the grits, which lacked taste. I wasn't feeling the citrus here, either, though I did really like the deep flavors of the linguiça, which almost saved the dish.

Paper Tiger [$14.00] | Russian Standard Vodka, Chartreuse, Lime Juice, Simple Syrup, Mint
Time for a couple more cocktails. The Paper Tiger was fairly straightforward, the light, bright core of the drink amped up by a trace of Chartreuse complexity.

Jalaberry Strawpeno [$14.00] | Strawberry Jalapeno Tequila, Agave Nectar, Lime Juice
Finally, we had the Jalaberry Strawpeno, which was pretty much a strawberry margarita, but with a lovely undercurrent of heat to it.

Pork Belly [$28.00] | wood roasted sunchoke, manila clam, calvados jus, green apple
And now, our two mains. The belly worked out well, the meat displaying a good ratio of fat and lean along with a crispy crust and just boatloads of piggy goodness. I appreciated the astringent counterpoint from the scallions as well, and the whole dish had an Asian-y flair to it that worked.

Seared Diver Scallops [$31.00] | crispy sweet breads, parisian gnocchi, persimmon, sage
The scallops were also on point, well cooked to a firm, yet still supple consistency, and with a very apparent brine to 'em. I quite liked the textural contrast of the gnocchi here, but the crux of the dish was the use of sweetbreads, which imparted a salty, crunchy exclamation point to the course.

Dessert at Herringbone is a pretty simple affair, with a throwback vibe to it. Click for a larger version.

Warm Maple Caramel Donuts [$14.00] | Maple sugar, caramel, orange marmalade, maple bourbon gelato
Doughnuts were recommended by our server and delivered as expected, coming out salty, sweet, and fluffy. They were rather tasty on their own, but the star here was clearly that ice cream, which perfectly blended the sweetness of maple with a boozy hit of bourbon--I could eat an entire pint of the stuff and be happy.

Creamsicle [$14.00] | Buttermilk genoise, tangerine semifreddo, white chocolate & milk crumble, crispy tangerines
The reimagined "creamsicle" also worked for me, really recalling what's great about the classic dessert, with the citrus playing foil to the buttery sponge cake in praiseworthy fashion. Great textures, too.

My meal here was about what I expected. The whole "surf plus turf" concept has merit I think, and came together really nicely in some of the dishes, but at the same time, I took exception to a few of the courses as well. Herringbone is still relatively new though, so I'm hoping that the cooking will be tightened up given some time. Considering the location (Sunset) and the clientele (pretty), you could certainly do worse. Apparently, Malarkey is working on launching an LA outpost of Searsucker as well, so I'd be curious about that one too, though I do hope the Chef goes for something more intimate, and not quite as grandiose next time around.

Colonia Taco Lounge
13030 E Valley Blvd, La Puente, CA 91746
626.363.4691
www.facebook.com/coloniatacolounge
Wed 01/29/2014, 07:50p-09:45p

Colonia Taco Lounge Exterior

Given the good experiences that I'd had recently at both Guisados and Bizarra Capital, it only made sense to check out Ricardo Diaz's newest creation, Colonia Taco Lounge. The restaurant bowed in August 2013, and features the Chef's famous guisados-style tacos along with craft beer, cocktails, and (occasional) live music.

Colonia, like Bizarra, is situated in a former location of El Siete Mares, a chain of Mexican seafood restaurants that Diaz's grandfather started decades ago, and which his father, uncle, and he himself grew up around. This latest venture is all about family in a way, since he partnered with his sister Stephanie Aguirre, who happens to run the well-regarded La Taquiza Fish Tacos up in Napa, as well as brother-in-law Patrick Aguirre, who was head baker at Bouchon for two years and also spent time at A.O.C. However, rumor has it that Patrick, at least, has left the venture.

Colonia Taco Lounge Interior

Inside, the space has been freshened up from its days as a 7 Mares. The dining room is large, moody, almost befitting its "lounge" moniker with the bar tucked into a corner. Note that there's no waiter service here, so you order at the counter and your food is then brought out to you, Carl's Jr-style.

Colonia Taco Lounge Menu

As for Colonia's menu, you'll find it scrawled on a chalkboard, much like it was at Diaz's former joint. Each day there are about a dozen-and-a-half tacos on offer, split between guisados (the long-cooked stuff) on the left and caseros ("homemade" made-to-order ones) on the right, as well as a couple sides, including the popular "Nachostadas." In terms of bebidas, think cocktails, fun sodas, some wine, and, of course, cerveza, mostly on tap.

Berries & Rye [$9.00] | whiskey, red wine, lemon bitters, blackberries
We leaned more toward the cocktails, the first of which was the Berries & Rye. I don't think I'd ever had whisky paired with wine before, but it worked out pretty well, the vinous essence of the tinto functioning as a complement to the booziness of the drink, all while the berries added just enough tartness.

Nachostadas [$6.00] | Aged chorizo, Cheese, 3 tostadas
First to the table were the Nachostadas, which were pretty much exactly what the portmanteau would suggest. They were delightfully crunchy and damn tasty though, with the meaty heft of the spicy sausage giving a great depth to the dish, tied together by the gooey cheese while the pico imparted the right amount of lightness to things. There were some pretty focused flavors here, but the course was also just slutty enough to make it good drunk food. You should order this.

Coliflor [$2.50] | Battered cauliflower, Salsa veracruzana, On flour tortilla
We would eventually make our way through the entire taco menu, and the gauntlet got off to a flying start with the cauliflower incarnation. Texturally, the florets were crisp and satisfying, imbued with a slight touch of spice while the creamy sauce brought it all together. This should be on your list to try.

Caipirinha [$6.00] | cachaça, lime, fennel
Colonia's take on the Caipirinha was effective, showing off the classic, refreshing character of the drink with just a trace of anise from the fennel.

Barbacoa [$4.00] | Braised lamb, Cilantro, Onion
The barbacoa was also a standout, the slow-cooked lamb arriving with a wonderful bite to it and just brimming with peppery, ovine flair. If that wasn't enough, the taco came with a cup of chipotle-infused braising liquid, which added a fantastic, earthy depth to the meat that elevated it even further.

Tongue

Tongue [$4.00] | Beef tongue, Pico de gallo, Beans
Despite coming in unusually large chunks, lengua was especially tender, though lacking in flavor, which seemed odd given the strength of the rest of the food. I did appreciate the counterpoint provided by the beans, and the salsa worked, but the supposed star of the show underwhelmed.

Michelada [$7.00] | lime, spice, ice
If you're only getting one cocktail, perhaps it should be the Michelada (made with Dos Equis I believe), which was certainly one of the best preparations I've had, a fun, refreshing concoction with a deft blend of sweet, sour, spicy, and savory. Take note that this is the only drink we ordered a second round of.

Chicharron [$4.00] | Pork skin, Beans, Avocado, Salsa
Chicharrones were unabashedly porky in nature, just loaded with piggy flavors that made sense against the various accompaniments, the frijoles in particular. My only warning here is that the gelatinous consistency of the pork can be disconcerting to those expecting the crunchy type of skin you often find.

Doraditos [$5.00] | Crispy potato, Cheese
The deep-fried potato tacos were another highlight for me, the hearty, smooth papas melding well with the cheese while the various greenery provided a perfect balance to things. Quite possibly the best tater tacos I've had.

Oaxaca Calling [$9.00] | vodka, lime, peppermint, jamaica, mezcal
Our next cocktail was the Oaxaca Calling, which had a lot of sweetness up front from the jamaica leading to a somewhat bitter finish, but with a sort of minty overtone enveloping the entire experience. I would've liked more a pronounced taste from the mezcal though.

Duck

Duck [$4.50] | Duck confit, smokey guacamole
The pato was yet another table favorite, displaying a super intense "duckiness" to it that made it one of the most profound preparations of the bird I've had. I loved the crispy, caramelized bits here as well, not to mention the zip of the pickles on top.

Campeon

Campeon [$3.00] | Seared queso fresco, Bacon, Molcajete, Avocado
The requisite cheese taco was a winner too, reminding one of my dining companions of "breakfast in Mexico City." It really was quite lovely, the combination of cheese against salty bacon and creamy avocado satisfying in a pretty base way.

Mai-Tai

Mai-Tai [$9.00] | rum, lime, pineapple
Our last cocktail of the night brought us the Mai-Tai, a non-traditional version of the classic that conveyed the boozy weight of rum at first, but with the pineapple giving things a tropical sweetness toward the midpalate.

Pavo Pibil [$4.00] | Turkey, Achiote, Onion pickles, Salsa
The special of the evening was a turkey taco, and it just might've been the most flavorful presentation of the bird I've had, its creeping bit of spice nicely accented by the zing of achiote while the pickles imparted a great crunch to the mix.

Sonora

Sonora [$4.50] | Steak, Raw green salsa, Onion, Cilantro, On flour tortilla
A Sonoran-style asada managed to become another one of my favs as well. The steak itself was superb in taste and in texture, but the crux here was the combo of raw salsa and charred scallion, both of which gave the dish a fantastic brightness to go against the meat.

Pork & Pumpkin [$3.00] | Kabocha squash, Seed salsa
The carnitas-esque pork was surprisingly good. I was afraid that the squash would render this overly sugary, and indeed the nose was full of sweet spice, but taste-wise, just think a really lush presentation of pork, with a touch of kabocha sweetness and the pepitas adding a superb textural contrast.

Huitlacoche [$3.00] | Mushrooms, Bourbon cilantro sauce, Avocado
The corn smut taco is another one you need to get, the "mushrooms" giving up a deep, earthy richness that just paired perfectly with the verve of that cilantro salsa. Pretty awesome.

Cucapa Lookout / Silly Saison

At this point, we decided to move on to beers. First up was the Cucapa Lookout [$6], a blonde ale with a great base of malty sweetness tempered by some tasty floral, hoppy qualities. The Silly Saison [$7], meanwhile, was even better with its fantastic fruity character paired with a bit of earthy, yeasty funk.

Pollo Tesmole [$3.00] | Chicken, Masa thickened spice sauce
The chicken taco was rather enjoyable too, the tender bird serving as a fitting base on which the deep, satisfying sauce could really sing. Nice use of the onions here, too.

Chayote

Chayote [$2.50] | Squash succotash, Cheese, Corn
A calabacitas-y taco was a pleasant surprise I must say, the veggies really coming together admirably in a mélange of tastes and textures, all bound together by a sweet, savory, spicy liquid.

Avocado Crunchy [$3.50] | Hard shell, Fennel, Pineapple, Vegetables
The second crispy taco of the night also managed to satisfy with its smart mix of vegetables, the piquant sauce here really doing a great job in integrating all the flavors at play. Superb crunch on that taco shell, too.

Beef

Beef [$4.00] | Smoked porter braised beef, Salsa
A stew of beef was uncommonly tender, though flavor-wise, it didn't stand out to me. I wanted to taste more of that smokiness from the porter.

Camaron

Camaron [$4.00] | Sauteed shrimp, Aji, On flour tortilla
Yet another favorite was the camarones, the shrimp here arriving expertly cooked and showing off a wonderfully focused brine, one tempered by the toppings of red cabbage and scallion while the coconut rice served as a unique moderating element.

Voodoo

Voodoo [$4.00] | Habanero-honey salsa, Chicken, Cucumber
We ended, naturally, with the spiciest taco in the bunch. It certainly didn't compare to the hottest menu item at Guisados, but packed a punch in its own right, the habanero really imparting a sharp bit of heat to the comparatively subdued chicken. I did like the cucumbers here as well, which worked in putting out some of the fire.

Bunuelos [$4.00]
Time for dessert. I rather liked the buñuelos, wonderfully crunchy shards of dough dusted with a coating of sweet spice. Delectable alone, and even better with a dab of that honeyed condiment on the side.

Ate con Crema y Queso [$5.00]
Last up was the ate de membrillo, a sort of quince paste that came in neat squares atop equally neat square of queso. My dining companions weren't too fond of these, but I enjoyed them, finding the sweet-savory interplay and textures here pretty pleasing.

Count Colonia as yet another feather in Ricardo Diaz's cap. The food here is at least as good as what was served over at Guisados I'd say, and you have the added benefit of booze. The Chef has done the taco proud, once again. So what's next? Now if you recall, Chef Diaz and the Aguirres were supposed to partner up for Duro, an eatery dedicated solely to crispy tacos and flautas. It was set to debut in the coming months at the site of the Siete Mares in Silver Lake, though with the recent developments, I'm not sure what's going on (the Aguirres may just open up Duro by themselves). Further along, Diaz has also expressed interest in Chorizo Amor, a Mexican sausage-plus-beer concept that was originally slated for the Duro space, so hopefully that'll come to fruition.

Pot Lobby Bar at The Line Hotel
3515 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90005
213.368.3030
www.eatatpot.com
Tue 02/11/2014, 10:25p-11:55p

Regular readers of this blog will know that I don't generally report on bars, preferring to focus my efforts on restaurants and the occasional food event. However, when Matthew Biancaniello teams up with Roy Choi on a project, people tend to take notice, myself included. The two have partnered on the launch of Pot Bar, a new drinking spot set inside the lobby of The Line Hotel in Koreatown and the companion to Choi's forthcoming Pot, a hot pot-focused eatery. Choi is actually heading the entire culinary program at the property, which used to be known as the Wilshire (Plaza) Hotel, and before that, a Radisson. The Line opened up back in January, but the bar made its debut just recently on February 5th.

Pot Bar

The Line is the work of the Sydell Group, the firm responsible for The NoMad in New York, as well as Ace Hotels in NYC and Palm Springs (though curiously not the outpost that just opened up across the street from Alma). They've completely updated the entire entrance lobby area, the whole space revamped by Sean Knibb, who also did A-Frame, Sunny Spot, and Littlefork. You have this, admittedly very neat maze of hard-edged banquettes and circular-yet-pentagonal booths at the front, while the bar, supposedly modeled after a high-end example typical of Seoul, resides in the back. The bar also takes on the pentagonal theme, and features various tchotchkes sprinkled about: plastic army men, bags of chips, Slim Jims, even a box full of Yeezy-esque shutter shades. Perhaps the most notable are the squirt guns, which I'm told will be used for a sort of "bottle service" wherein they'll be filled with booze.

Now obviously, the headliners here are Matt Biancaniello's cocktails, which Choi pretty much allowed him free rein on. The first column lists the original creations, which are the sort of cutting-edge, unexpected, and often times whimsical types of drinks that Biancaniello's known for. However, they're also joined by his reimagined takes on cocktails ostensibly popular during the 1980's, and which, I've heard, are still hot in Seoul. If cocktails aren't your thing, there's a pretty good selection of beers as well, even Hite (this is K-Town after all), and the wine list isn't too shabby either, save for perhaps the Fetzer white zin (a wise choice if your Asian mom drops in, I guess). Rounding things out are a few sakes, shochus, and a nice array of high quality spirits if you're in the mood for something more basic. Click for larger versions.

Soju - Curry [$13.00]
We began with a trio of soju-based cocktails, which Biancaniello is particularly proud of, and for good reason. Things got off to a very strong start with the curry version, which contains a homemade 21-spice blend acquired from a friend, Cabernet Franc pickling liquid, lemon, agave, and a cocktail onion on top. The curry essence here was pretty incredible in its complexity and intensity, giving us a savory, spicy, Southeast Asia-tinged, super aromatic quality that paired great with the pickle-y notes in the drink, all while a restrained undercurrent of sweetness brought it all together. Interestingly, my drinking companion even likened the sensation here to a pickleback (whiskey chased by pickle brine).

Soju - Kimchi [$13.00]
This next cocktail, meanwhile, might appeal to the kimchi lovers in the area, of which I suspect there are many. The most prototypical of Korean ingredients came with ghost pepper sea salt and custom-made durian bitters produced by Drunken Crane. The result was quite something, a delectable base of kimchi tartness balanced by a permeating bittersweetness in the drink (I believe from the use of Salers and Chareau), all finished by a garlicky sensation on the back end.

Soju - Natto [$13.00]
Last up in terms of the soju cocktails was the natto version, arguably the most daunting of the trio and comprising cucumber gin, agave, lime, and black sesame. I've never been a fan of the fermented soybean, but ended up really enjoying the drink. You get that funky, ferment-y depth you'd expect, but the use of cucumber here really tempered the heft of the ingredient, making for an eminently balanced, well integrated, easy going libation.

Uni

Uni [$13.00] | 123 Tequila Reposado, Nori, Cumin
Here we come to the cocktail that I suspect will be the one that everybody's going to be talking about. It's a reworking of a drink that Biancaniello originally created for one of the Ceviche Nights over at Mo-Chica back in late 2012, and is made with Santa Barbara uni that's sous vide'd, puréed, then combined with cumin simple syrup, roasted nori, lemon, and the tequila. The drink perhaps best exemplifies what the bar program here is all about, and is probably much more subtle than you'd expect. Things lean toward sweet and spicy initially, but then the creamy, ocean-y nuances of the uni come through more toward the close, lingering long while moderated by the umami-rich relish of the seaweed, which permeates the entire cocktail and forms a natural complement to the roe.

Mushroom [$13.00] | Elijah Craig 12yr, Shitake, Cynar, Carpano Antica
Biancaniello's exploration of umami went even further in this cocktail, which can be likened to a version of Audrey Saunders' Little Italy, but with shiitakes. It's a drink that first appeared at the Library Bar, and one that makes great use of Cynar. The vegetal bittersweetness of the liqueur made itself known to great effect at first, but eventually gave way to a growing sensation of mushroom, a savoriness that just kept going and going.

Mezcal & Tonic [$13.00] | Pierde Almas Espadin
Mezcal seems to be the spirit du jour these days, and here it arrived accompanied by tonic and a mish-mash of dill, lime, olives, kumquats, and pearl onions. I appreciated how the inherent smokiness, the depth of the liquor was proudly conveyed, yet smartly complemented by the sweet, savory notes in the drink. I especially loved that dill, which provided an unexpected counterpoint that really sang with the mezcal.

Walnut

Walnut [$13.00] | Benedictine, Walnut Oil, Lemon, Cacao Nibs
Bénédictine formed a superb base to this next cocktail, which I believe originally appeared at Library Bar under the name Nutty Monk. Talk about smooth and slinky, the base of liqueur seamlessly incorporated--an alluring concoction that played nutty, sweet, and bitter off each other admirably, the entire experience punctuated by the astringent crunch of cacao.

Hops

Hops [$13.00] | Anchor Distilling Hop Head Vodka, Carrot
The last of Biancaniello's originals brought us one of the most approachable cocktails on the menu. A creamy, lush sort of drink, this one did a commendable job displaying the sweetness of the carrot against the hop notes present, all while some zesty, citrus-y notes overarched the entire experience, making for some great aromatics.

Fuzzy Navel [$11.00]
At this point, we transitioned to Biancaniello's revised takes on the cocktails of my childhood. A classic Fuzzy Navel is composed of peach schnapps mixed with OJ, but tonight's had peach and apricot liqueurs, passion fruit concentrate, candied and muddled Meiwa kumquats, lime, as well as dehydrated peach. It was easily the sweetest drink of the night, yet not cloyingly so, with an intoxicating nose of candied fruit and a creeping sugariness on the palate that reminded my drinking companion of a Fruit Roll-Up!

White Russian [$11.00]
Three ingredients comprise a traditional White Russian: vodka, cream, and your choice of coffee liqueur. Biancaniello, ever his creative self, instead incorporates a candy cap-infused vodka, cream, Kahlúa, Kahlúa foam, and grated espresso beans. This one was unquestionably the most dessert-y of our cocktails, showing off a wonderful aroma of coffee intermingled with deliciously sugary notes from the mushroom and just a hint of booze. We commented that this would be great as an ice cream.

Long Island Ice Tea [$13.00]
The Long Island is perhaps one of the most ratchet of cocktails, a particularly boozy concoction usually containing vodka, rum, tequila, and gin, along with triple sec. Biancaniello's interpretation brought us mezcal, aquavit, Smith & Cross rum, Batavia arrack, blood orange-infused CapRock gin, blood orange soda, and lemon, all finished with chunks of aloe vera on the bottom. The ingredients really came together better than they sound like they should, and I loved the anise-y flavors from the aquavit, which really accentuated the myriad of flavors going on here. Even better, though, was the aloe, which imparted a floral sort of sweetness to the drink and made for a fun time when sucked up through the thick boba straws. Intriguingly, I was told that this will eventually be served on tap.

Midori Sour [$11.00]
We wrapped up our evening with Biancaniello's riff on the Midori Sour, which typically contains Midori muskmelon liqueur and some sort of sour mix. Instead, we had Midori (of course), along with vodka, lemon, lime, grapefruit, agave, yuzu, and green Chartreuse. Now, the classic drink is usually overly sweet, so I was a fan of how the Midori was really evened out by a palpable bit of sourness. I was also a fan of the serving vessel here, sort of a large beer mug type of thing, and interestingly, I'm hearing that this drink will eventually be served with flaming melon balls(!).

The drinks tonight were an unmitigated success, some of the best stuff that Biancaniello's put out thus far. Roy Choi wanted him to push things with the menu at Pot Bar, and he delivered in a big way, giving us robust, inventive cocktails with layered, multifaceted flavors that flitted and evolved on the palate. You had all the complexity, the nuances and subtleties, the unique combinations that Biancaniello's known for, but with a big dose of fun and whimsy that's really a perfect fit for this environment. There's no question that this is an absolutely must visit for all your cocktail enthusiasts out there.

But wait...there's more. In addition to the bakery-cum-cafe going in on the ground floor, as well as Pot proper, Choi is working on the veggie-focused Commissary upstairs, which will have its own garden. Biancaniello is probably going to be slanging his trademark farmer's market-style drinks there, and it'll likely be an even more intimate setting that'll allow for even more elevated cocktails. That'll be one to watch out for, and of course, he's still working on his own place somewhere on the western edges of the City where he can do his omakase-style tastings. More to come...

Barbershop Ristorante Pop-Up at The Farmer's Kitchen
1555 Vine St, Hollywood, CA 90028
424.272.5849
www.barbershop-ristorante.com
Sat 02/15/2014, 07:05p-09:30p

I think LA has largely gotten over its pop-up fascination with the passing of LudoBites, but certainly one of the most persistent examples over the past year or so has been Barbershop. It's the work of Chef Walter El Nagar, an Italian native who previously cooked at the likes of Il Grano, Piccolo, and La Botte. He started out in December 2012 at the Il Covo/new A.O.C. space, then transitioned to the now-shuttered La Petite Crêperie in Mar Vista (replete with guest chef Morihiro Onodera) before relocating to the oldA.O.C. space (with guest chef Kevin Meehan) for the third incarnation. Version 4.0 was supposed to be held at Axe, but had to move down the street to Local 1205; guest chefs there included Ori Menashe and Sergio Perera and Jacob Kear from The Amalur Project.

This fifth, most recent installment took El Nagar further east to The Farmer's Kitchen, located on the ground floor of the Sunset + Vine apartment complex. The series ran from January 22nd to February 15th, and for this iteration, the Chef was assisted in the kitchen by the Brazilian-born Fernando Darin, who's best known for his stint at Kitchen Table in Downtown (which closed before I could visit), as well as Aaron Ziegler, who's best known for his stint on the Graham Elliot-hosted reality cooking show Covert Kitchens (which lasted for all of one episode). Meanwhile, the Chef's wife, Alysia El Nagar, took charge in the front-of-the-house, while Guido Zwicker assumed the role of "curator," which I guess means that he's the money man-slash-marketing guru.

The typical Barbershop menu ran $95 for nine-courses, while drinks were a strictly BYOB affair (with no corkage). However, we had a variation of the longer Valentine's Day menu (even though we dined on Singles Awareness Day instead), which came in at $125. Click for a larger version.

We, of course, took full advantage of the BYO policy and brought along a few bottles to share: 2005 Louise Brison Champagne Brut, 2005 Alois Kracher Grande Cuvée TBA #7 Nouvelle Trockenbeerenauslese, Timmermans Lambicus Blanche, 8 Wired Saison Sauvin, HaandBryggeriet Sur Megge, Beachwood 7, and Sierra Nevada Ovila Abbey Quad With Plums.

1: Oyster & Foie
Our amuse bouche brought us a lone Shigoku, encased in a sea water spherification, along with foie gras powder and sea bean. There was a very strong salinity to the course, too strong in fact, and it almost gave the sensation of downing straight saltwater. The oyster was a bit lost in the mix, and though the foie did help moderate things, I really wanted more of it.

Buri

2: Buri ~~& Uni~~
The next course lacked one of its headlining ingredients (I guess the uni wasn't of good enough quality), but still managed to work out rather well. The commingling of lush ricotta and fatty hamachi was an unexpected but effective combination, the creaminess of the cheese really melding seamlessly along with the fish. At the same time, I appreciated the pops of savoriness from the dashi tapioca, all while the seagrass and kinome (leaves of Szechwan pepper) imparted a great zestiness to the mix.

3: Venus Rice & Berries
A standout for me was this dish of Hokkaido scallop, salmon roe, and puffed Nero Venere rice, tarped with a sheet of raspberry gel and plum sorrel. I loved the savory crunch of the rice when taken against the clean, creamy scallops, all while the ikura imparted a delightful smoky character to things. If that wasn't enough, the raspberry gel gave the course a further textural complement, and provided a restrained, lingering sweetness that complemented the bivalves beautifully.

Barbershop Ristorante Pop-Up at The Farmer's Kitchen

Barbershop Ristorante Pop-Up at The Farmer's Kitchen

Our vantage point at the counter gave us a great view of all the action going on in the kitchen.

4: Foie Gras & Saba
Foie gras was made into a thick custard, drizzled with saba (grape must syrup), and dotted with coriander, borage, Sichuan pepper, and nasturtium, the presentation reminding me a bit of the "Ugly Bunch" dish at Providence. Looks aside, it was a delicious amalgamation, the hefty, livery sweetness of the foie working gorgeously against pin points of bright, vivacious piquancy, those herbaceous flavors really doing a wonderful job uplifting the palate.

5: Prawn & Olive
A singular spot prawn was clean, crisp, and supple to the bite, its ocean-y savors a surprisingly effective pair to the accompaniments of cardoon, artichoke, and olive powder. Some very neat flavors going on here, with the light, yet somehow earthy nuances of the veggies evening out the brine of the shrimp super effectively.

6: Ink & Lemon
A tangled roll of black garlic pasta came with lemon, chickweed, and oyster. There was a lovely texture on the pasta, and its taste was almost mushroom-y initially, but eventually led to more garlicky notes, ones smartly set off by the citrus-y flavors present.

7: Lobster & Apple
Lobster arrived beautifully cooked, still snappy and crisp, its sweetness on vibrant display along with the sugary, buttery notes of the apple-stuffed ravioli(?), all while slices of truffle added an veil of deep, earthy flavors to the entire experience.

Fernando Darin, Walter El Nagar

Fernando Darin joined Chef El Nagar in slapping the risotto into submission.

8: Lemon & Egg
The spanking paid off apparently, as the Acquerello Carnaroli risotto was one of my favorites this evening, and one of the most memorable preparations of the dish I've had. I'd never tasted a risotto quite like it before. You had smoked rice, Meyer lemon, and shavings of cured egg yolk on top. The interaction between the weighty yolk and tart lemon was masterful, and paired perfectly with the savory, slightly smoky, well-textured base of rice. This is one to get for sure.

Extra: Ibérico & Green Onion
Next up was a "bonus" course of jamón ibérico de bellota, and not just any ibérico, but the "secreto," a highly-desirable cut from behind the shoulder blade of the hog. Served here with shishito and green onion, it was one of the tastiest presentations of pork I've eaten in a long while. Cooked properly rare (and almost not looking like pork), it conveyed a wondrous texture along with a fantastic hammy depth of flavor, one that was faultlessly matched to the counterbalancing astringency of the greenery. Excellent.

9: Cod & Chocolate
Cod, unfortunately, didn't work out quite so swimmingly. Texturally, it was almost disconcertingly gelatinous, and in terms of taste, there wasn't much to it, the fish seeming almost underseasoned. There was a slight bit of sweetness from the chocolate bubbles that helped, along with the saline notes from the sea beans and the asparagus, but that wasn't enough to salvage the dish.

10: Ginger & Carrots
With the savories done with, an intermezzo of sorts brought out a ginger panna cotta underneath a dollop of purple carrot foam. I found the panna cotta creamy and surprisingly dense, but very effective, affording us a great new way to experience the classic combo of carrot and ginger.

11: Frozen & Hot
Dessert proper comprised sweet lime sorbet, mascarpone, bergamot air, and cayenne pepper. It was a fun, yet smart course, a commixture of sweet and sour sensations and disparate textures, all finished with a delightful tinge of heat.

Based on our experience tonight, it's clear to me that El Nagar has upped his game in the year since I last dined with him. Save for the couple of misses on the menu, flavors were more robust, more nuanced, and there was a palpable confidence and focus in his cooking that really appealed to me. It's a style of Italian cookery that no one else has really attempted around these parts, and that is to be lauded. As for the Chef's next steps, it's my understanding that this was the last Barbershop pop-up, with the permanent ristorante coming to the Santa Monica area in the coming months, so be on the lookout for that.

Maude Restaurant
212 S Beverly Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310.859.3418
www.mauderestaurant.com
Thu 02/20/2014, 08:50p-11:10p

Maude Exterior

February 1st marked the official grand opening of Maude, celebrity chef Curtis Stone's long-awaited "dream little restaurant" named after his grandmother. We'd heard rumors of an eatery since late 2010, but it was finally confirmed last year when he took over the old Pici Enoteca space on Beverly. I'm glad that Stone's forgoing something big, glitzy, and horrible (à la Guy Fieri), instead opening up a place that's right up my alley: small, seasonal, and tasting menu-focused.

About the Chef: An Australian native, Stone was born in 1975 to a family that loved cooking, and started in the kitchen with his mom and grandmum at age four. He attended the Penleigh and Essendon Grammar School, then went to study business before leaving to pursue a career in the culinary field. Stone's first real job in the biz, at age 18, was an apprenticeship at the Savoy Hotel in his hometown of Melbourne. Following, he ate his way around Europe before arriving in London to seek employment with the legendary Marco Pierre White, whose autobiographical cookbook White Heat was the first he'd ever read. At age 22, Stone realized his dream and began cooking under White at The Grill Room at the Café Royal Hotel. A year later, in 1998, he moved to White's newly-opened Mirabelle, starting as a chef de partie before being promoted to Sous after six months. After helping the restaurant secure a Michelin star, he transitioned to White's Italian-influenced Quo Vadis, where he spent four years as head chef and helped earn the spot a star from Michelin.

While Stone was working at Quo Vadis, he was approached by a publisher who wanted him to appear in the book London on a Plate, written about the City's best chefs. Once the volume was released, he received a call from Jamie Oliver's agent and began doing television work in Britain, appearing on Taste Today, Good Food Live, Saturday Kitchen, This Morning, and even filming a 15-episode series called Dinner in a Box in 2002. The next year, Stone returned home to Australia to film traveling cooking show Surfing the Menu with fellow chef Ben O'Donoghue. In 2004, he hosted the reality show My Restaurant Rules, then moved back to London to help relaunch Bluebird in Chelsea with Sir Terence Conran.

Stone relocated to the US in 2006, finding work on TLC's Take Home Chef, which introduced him to American audiences. This led to further TV appearances, including on shows such as Today and Martha. In 2010, he competed on Season 8 of Iron Chef America, losing to Bobby Flay in Battle Skipjack Tuna. This was followed up by a stint on Season 9 of The Apprentice, where he finished in fourth place, and then a role on NBC's America's Next Great Restaurant in 2011. Stone's next gig brought him to Bravo, where he famously replaced Kelly Choi on Top Chef Masters, and in 2012, the network made him co-host of Around the World in 80 Plates, along with Cat Cora. His latest score came late last year, when it was announced that he'd be guest-hosting The Chew on ABC. In between all these various projects, Stone's also been able to release three cookbooks: Relaxed Cooking with Curtis Stone in 2009, Cooking with Curtis in 2010, and What's for Dinner? in 2013.

Despite all this mainstream success, Stone never had his own restaurant, so that's where Maude comes in, serving as a sort of passion project for the Chef. Inklings of the spot first appear back in 2010, when Steven Fretz left XIV and joined Stone's organization. The two were reportedly working on a restaurant together, but the idea ultimately went nowhere. Fretz, of course, landed at The Church Key, while Stone ended up purchasing Pici Enoteca (which used to be Bossa Nova's Beverly Hills outpost) in early 2013. He reworked the space and a hired pedigreed team--proudly advertised as hailing from Alinea, El Bulli, French Laundry, Joël Robuchon, Torrisi Italian Specialties, and Vue de Monde--before debuting Maude (in soft-opening mode) in January this year.

The only dining option at Maude is a nine-course tasting menu, which features a monthly-changing ingredient that's featured in some form or another in every course ("citrus" for February). The price is set at a very reasonable $75 (with some wiggle room depending on ingredient), and wine pairings tack on another $55. Also to drink, you'll find a pretty good selection of beers, ciders, wines, and sakes chosen by GM/Wine Director Ben Aviram (Elizabeth, Alinea, The French Laundry), and corkage is set at $30 a bottle (limit one per person). Click for a larger version.

1a: Lime Sorbet
H. Goutorbe, "Cuvee Prestige", Champagne, France N.V
A meal at Maude begins with a series of snacks, the first of which brought together lime sorbet and Cara Cara segments. It was a super light, refreshing sort of dish meant to awaken the palate, the initial sourness of lime leading to sweeter notes from the orange.

1b: Oysters and Caviar
H. Goutorbe, "Cuvee Prestige", Champagne, France N.V
It doesn't get much more classic than oysters and caviar, but Stone mixed things up here with the inclusion of what I believe was a cava-citrus gelée. Think tangy and sweet, intermingled with a focused, forceful salinity, going back and forth on the tongue. A great match to the paired Champagne, which I found delightfully toasty and uncommonly rich, with a particularly intriguing fruitiness to it.

1c: Gougère
H. Goutorbe, "Cuvee Prestige", Champagne, France N.V
Next up were what must be the tiniest gougères ever. Cuteness aside, they showed off the cheesy goodness that you'd expect, but one joined by almost ethereal notes of artichoke.

Crispy Mussel

1d: Onion Bhaji
H. Goutorbe, "Cuvee Prestige", Champagne, France N.V
Here was Stone's take on the traditional Indian snack of onion bhaji. They conveyed traditional South Asian flavors along with a sort of lingering bitterness, the cilantro-mint-lime crème fraîche brightening up the experience.

1e: Crispy Mussel
H. Goutorbe, "Cuvee Prestige", Champagne, France N.V
The final of the fivesome gave us crispy mussels with blood orange aioli, a spot on rendition of the fritter that had a delectable savoriness to it that was smartly paired with creeping notes of the citrus toward the back end.

2: Garden Salad | Pearl Onion, Buttermilk, Nasturtium
George Skouras, Moscofilero, Peloponnese, Greece 2012
Our first proper course was Stone's interpretation of the ubiquitous chef's salad, comprised of winter greens, oro blanco, and pickled onion, then dressed with caraway-buttermilk. I liked the bitter base to the dish, as well as the bevy of textures going on, but the crux was that dressing, which had a creaminess to it that tied everything together, but also, critically, a hint of anise-y flavor that really differentiated the dish.

3: Carrot Soup | Smoke Parsnip, Orange, Serrano Ham
George Skouras, Moscofilero, Peloponnese, Greece 2012
You have to have a soup with your salad, and the one here was of the carrot-orange variety, featuring smoked parsnip cream, a jamón serrano chip, and parsley purée. I usually abhor carrot soups, but this one truly hit the mark: a hearty, comforting potage with a great depth of flavor, laced with a subtle undercurrent of sweetness, the ham adding a welcomed jolt of salt and crunch to the fray. Superb with the paired wine and its interplay between floral/fruity and saline flavors.

Lobster

4: Lobster | Crimson Turnip, Radish, Brioche
Hitori Musume, Junmai Nigori, Ibaraki, Japan
A standout for me was the crudo, which combined spiny lobster with crimson turnip cream, watermelon radish, lemon, fennel, and a brioche tuile. The crustacean itself was slick and snappy, displaying just a modicum of sweetness that paired swimmingly against the bitter crunch of the root veggies, all while the herb-y accents present heightened the dish even further.

Terrine

5: Terrine | Chicken, Pain Perdu, Mustard
Breton, "Clos Senechal", Bourgueil, France 2010
I was a fan of the terrine as well, a layered presentation of pain perdu, chicken, mushroom, tangerine gel, and dill, all accompanied by a Dijon ice cream. I loved the deep, soulful flavors here, and how they played off of the nuances of bittersweet citrus and herbaceous dill, the mustard acting as an appropriately piquant counterpoint to the mash-up.

'Duck, Duck Goose'

6: "Duck, Duck Goose" | Duck Egg, Smoked Goose Fat, Swiss Chard
Breton, "Clos Senechal", Bourgueil, France 2010
The whimsically-named ravioli was a crowd pleaser, an amalgam of duck mousse, Swiss chard, smoked goose fat, grated dehydrated salted duck yolk, beurre blanc, and Brussels sprouts. I was quite enamored with the deep, lush flavors of the birds here, a succulent, almost buttery sensation that was tempered just enough by the greenery, with a peek of citrus showing through toward the close.

7: Snake River Farm's Beef | Beef Cheek, Broccoli, Rosti
Emilio Moro, Ribera del Duero, Spain 2009
Our final savory brought us American-style wagyu rib eye from Snake River Farms, paired with broccoli and broccoli purée, wood sorrel, potato rösti, and a cube of braised cheek atop a disk of rutabaga. I wish that the steak were a touch more succulent, but I had no qualms with its taste, which worked wonderfully alongside the citrus-y and broccoli notes in the dish. The cheek, meanwhile, was even more luxurious, as dark and tender and gelatinous and deep as you'd want, a great counterpoint to the comparatively subdued flavors of the rutabaga. Perhaps my favorite thing here, though, was the potato, a super savory, satisfying preparation of the ingredient that was amplified by the intoxicating aromatics of what I believe was rosemary.

8: Abbaye de Belloc | Mostarda, Semolina Crackers
Emilio Moro, Ribera del Duero, Spain 2009
There's no room for a proper cheese cart at Maude, so fromage was represented by a lone block of Abbaye de Belloc, shaved tableside. The sheep's milk varietal was to my liking, a semi-hard, creamy sort of cheese that ate well with the citrus mostarda and the crackers in particular (which had a savoriness to them that I swear recalled La Choy Crispy Noodles).

At this point, Pastry Chef Vanessa brought out a pre-dessert of orange blossom madeleines. They were rather fetching, with a wondrously lingering floral quality to them that combined exquisitely with the hefty salted caramel.

9: Lemon Curd | Dulcey Cremeux, Yuzu Sorbet, Hempseed
Badia a Coltibuono, Vin Santo, Tuscany, Italy 2006
Dessert proper comprised lemon curd, Dulcey cremeux, shortbread, and a crème fraîche-yuzu sorbet. I found the dish very well integrated, with homey, yet elevated flavors that balanced sweet and sour with a buttery, subtly savory flair. A lovely complement to the paired dessert wine.

Mignardises arrived in sets of five. Going right to left, we have: light, airy blood orange marshmallows; Limoncello macarons that conveyed a taste reminiscent of lemon Starbursts(!); super aromatic Buddha's hand pâtes de fruits; chocolate-kumquat thumbprints; and satsuma-chocolate truffles, which showed off that classic chocolate-orange interplay.

Lemon Butter & Brioche

Take home gifts included lemon butter and a mini loaf of brioche, both of which I enjoyed for lunch the following day.

I'm happy to report that I was decidedly satisfied with my meal at Maude. I think there are quite a few people that'll be surprised with the place, since, around these parts, Stone is known for more for his camera-friendly looks and extensive television work than his cooking. People don't realize his background, the fact that he ran a Michelin-starred place for Marco back in the day, and so with this restaurant, he's showing us that he's more than just a pretty face and can actually run a kitchen (and yes, he was actually in the kitchen most of the night, not just working the dining room). The cooking's on point, and I'm a fan of the concept, of featuring a key ingredient that must be weaved throughout the menu, sometimes as the hero in the dish, but other times in a supporting, or even barely discernable role. Maude's likely the most interesting, ambitious new restaurant to grace Beverly Hills in a while, and is the type of place that I sorta want to revisit periodically, just to see what they do with each month's secret ingredient. I suspect that many others might want to do the same after eating here.

The Factory Kitchen Restaurant
1300 Factory Pl, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.996.6000
www.thefactorykitchen.com
Mon 02/03/2014, 08:30p-10:45p

The Factory Kitchen Exterior

The City's latest Italian eatery of note is the somewhat perplexingly-named Factory Kitchen, a trattoria-style restaurant set in the ground floor of the Factory Place Arts Complex, an Arts District building that was once going to be home to Walter Manzke's Republique. The spot debuted at the end of October 2013, and is the work of Chef Angelo Auriana and GM Matteo Ferdinandi, longtime friends who met in the LA culinary scene during the mid 1990's.

About the Chef: Born in Bergamo, Italy (northeast of Milan), Auriana graduated with honors from the hotel management school of San Pellegrino Terme at age 17. He began cooking for Pierangelo Cornaro at the Michelin two-star Antico Ristorante dell'Angelo, then made his way around Italy refining his mastery of the craft. In 1985, he relocated to Los Angeles and helped open Piero Selvaggio's Primi, but quickly moved over to Valentino. He stayed there for nearly 18 years and made it the grandest Italian restaurant in all of LA, but finally decamped in 2003. Following, Auriana relocated to Northern California and became Exec Chef at Masque Ristorante in El Dorado Hills (outside Sacramento), but left that partnership in early 2006.

He returned briefly to helm the kitchens at Valentino, but then moved back up north in 2007. He started consulting for Gary Rulli, the pastry chef behind Emporio Rulli Gran Caffe in San Francisco's Marina, and started cooking Tuesday night dinners there, which expanded to Friday night wine events. This then led Rulli to shut down the space and reopen it as Ristobar in February 2010, with Auriana behind the stove daily. However, the Chef left the place the following year and joined the team over at Ligurian trattoria Farina in the Mission, officially taking over chef duties in October 2011 and staying there until leaving to start work on The Factory Kitchen.

Ferdinandi, for his part, was born in Venice in 1966, the son of a fourth-generation baker. During his childhood, he worked at the family bakery as well as at his uncle's restaurant Il Colombo, and soon developed an interest in the business. However, he attended surveying school in Padova, graduating in 1986, and soon left for London to study English and pursue a career in architecture. To make ends meet, Ferdinandi started working as a waiter, and eventually decided to devote himself to the restaurant industry. In 1992, he moved to New York and bounced around various places before relocating to Los Angeles after a visit in 1994. Here, he joined Spectrum Foods, a hospitality group that ran a number of restaurants, including the one that got Celestino Drago his start. Following, Ferdinandi returned to NYC to work as GM for Pino Luongo at Coco Pazzo, then moved to Las Vegas to head up operations at Spago. He stayed with Wolfy and came back to LA to open CUT in 2006, and followed that up with his own cafe-cum-retail shop, Froma, in 2007. Ferdinandi would then partner with Celestino to launch Drago Centro in 2008.

As for Factory Kitchen's menu, think trattoria-inspired cuisine and house-made pastas, but with some unusual dishes and a regional slant, set in the typical progression of starters-pastas-mains. To drink, we have a manageable, not-too-expensive, Italian-centric wine list written by Director of Wine Francine Diamond-Ferdinandi (Gramercy Tavern, Spago, Postrio, Picholine, Artisanal), with corkage set at $20 (limit two bottles). There are also a few requisite beers, as well as a short list of cocktails by Karl Steuck (Writer's Bar, Hatfield's). Click for larger versions.

I opted to bring my own wine this evening, and our first bottle was the 2011 Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato Sicilia IGT, which we all enjoyed. It was a fairly light, yet substantial wine, with loads of floral and berry on the nose paired with plenty more on the palate, joined by just the right amount of tempering herbaceousness.

pancotto [$9.00] | duck egg, red potato vellutata, sautéed greens, semolina bread crostone, speck
We began with Auriana's take on pancotto (literally "cooked bread"), a sort of bread soup popular with the peasant set. Here, it's reinterpreted in a much more elegant manner, but still retained its hearty, comforting nature, the crostino serving as a weighty base on which the lush, enveloping egg could really sing with the salty ham.

lingua

lingua [$16.00] | seared lamb tongue, mesclun salad, ajadda, potatoes
Lamb tongue arrived tender and tasty, though perhaps more flavor could've been extracted from the organ meat. Nevertheless, the lingua made sense with the dollop of silky mashed potatoes on the plate, and I quite appreciated the bright, zesty counterpoint provided by the lightly-dressed greens.

prosciutto [$18.00] | parma prosciutto 24 months, lightly fried sage dough, stracciatella
The prosciutto is a dish here that people tend to talk about, and with good reason as I found out. Aged for two years, the ham itself was on point by itself, but the key was to eat everything together, the lush, gooey stracciatella cheese and wonderful aromatics of the airy sage loaf melding in flawless concert.

Following the Frappato was the 2010 Giovanni Montisci Cannonau di Sardegna Barrosu Riserva, a much weightier affair. Think dark and spicy aromas, with a certain earthiness on the tongue over a base of dusty fruit and some forest-y nuances. Quite nice as well.

gnocchi malfatti [$19.00] | ricotta semolina dumpling, dolce latte, crushed pistachio
Our first pasta of the evening brought out a pretty marvelous rendition of gnocchi, one of the best I've had in fact. I found 'em utterly fluffy to the bite, their luxurious, creamy goodness beautifully accented by the nutty crunch of pistachio.

focaccina calda di recco al formaggio - pizzata [$18.00] | crescenza, san marzano tomato, capers, anchovies, oregano
Next was another dish that'd been garnering quite a bit of attention. A relatively obscure Ligurian specialty, the focaccina's basically a flatbread stuffed with crescenza cheese, then baked. The combination of the light, crisp, blistered layers of dough and tangy cheese is something you should probably try. However, I'd recommend ordering the variation sans toppings. The tomato sauce here did work as a tart complement to the dish, but unfortunately, rendered much of the flatbread soggy. This is not one to get fancy with.

backyard boogie [$10.00] | templeton rye, root, fennel, absinthe mist, orange oil
With the wine drunk up, it was time to sample some of Karl Steuck's cocktails. His first entrant was one for fans of the boozier, more aromatic stuff. Imagine some root beer-esque flavors, commingled with the kick of whiskey, the fennel and absinthe contributing an anise-laced veil to the drink.

sweet jane [$10.00] | barrel aged genever, rhubarb, lavender honey
This one was also enjoyable, though it leaned more toward the sweeter side, the woody, herb-y notes of the genever mixing it up admirably with sugary rhubarb and floral lavender elements.

mandilli di seta [$19.00] | handkerchief pasta, ligurian almond basil pesto
Of course, we had to give the Chef's signature pasta a try, a dish he first popularized during his tenure up in the Bay Area. The name translates to "silk handkerchiefs," which is actually a fitting description for the slick, almost sensual sheets. It was certainly a winner, the delicate folds of pasta working the tongue while the pesto imparted a bright, nutty, creamy verve to everything.

pappardelle [$20.00] | taggia olives speckled pasta, rabbit ragú, italian parsley
The pappardelle was yet another standout. I loved how the embedded specks of olive in the pasta so forcefully conveyed the piquancy of the fruit. Paired with that hearty ragù, it was a satisfying eating experience to say the least.

little italy [$12.00] | templeton rye, cynar, antica
Steuck's last cocktail was sort of a variation on the classic Manhattan and displayed many of its finer points, the Cynar imparting a more vegetal, bittersweet hue to the drink.

anatra

anatra [$26.00] | duck spezzatino, garden herbs, huckleberry, buck wheat polenta
Moving on to the mains now, we had here the duck "stew," with the bird prepared two ways. The pan-seared breast was intense, really putting forth a rather profound "duckiness" that worked well with its crisp, savory skin, though I would've liked the meat cooked a touch rarer. The leg/thigh confit, though, was spot on, as rich and falling-apart tender as you'd expect, and smartly paired with the polenta.

porchetta [$25.00] | rolled pork belly, herbs, red onion, carrots, fennel, celery
Last up was the porchetta, which seems to be the pig dish that's come into its own over the past couple years. Auriana's preparation hit the spot, coming out salty and succulent, the alternating strata of lean and fat eating beautifully with the hits of herbs and fennel in the dish, all while crisp stalks of celery and carrots provided a modicum of lightness to things.

The Factory Kitchen's dessert menu is composed by Pastry Chef Emily Acevedo (Soho House, Nickel Diner, Bottega Louie), and features appropriately Italianate selections. Click for a larger version.

paciugo

paciugo [$8.00] | fior di latte, meringue, hazelnuts, chocolate sauce, amarena cherries, berries
Gelato from producer Paciugo was the hero here in this sundae-like contraption, lovely on its own (albeit a tad icy at times) but even better when taken with its various accompaniments. I especially appreciated the meringue and its airy textural contrast.

bigne di cioccolato [$8.00] | chocolate custard filled cream puffs, caramel sauce
We finished with what basically amounted to profiteroles, not that that's a bad thing mind you. The puffs really were delicious, their chocolate-y filling pairing in stellar fashion with the choux pastry and whipped cream.

It may take some stugots to open an Italian place this close to powerhouse Bestia, but the guys have done a nice job. The cooking here probably leans toward more regional, more traditional, and exudes a certain quiet confidence and simplicity that's not surprising to see from a Chef with Auriana's experience. The Factory Kitchen's not a flashy sort of joint or one that begs for the spotlight, but is nonetheless a worthy addition to the City's Italian landscape.

Chego Restaurant
727 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
323.380.8680
www.eatchego.com
Tue 12/10/2013, 07:45p-10:05p

Chego Chinatown

Back in 2010, we were near the height of the Kogi craze. The company had expanded into the Alibi Room, and Roy Choi was fresh off a "Best New Chef" win from Food & Wine magazine. It was, thus, the perfect time to launch Choi's first standalone, sit-down, brick-and-mortar restaurant, Chego ("the best" in Korean, roughly). The place debuted in April, situated in a Palms strip mall spot once occupied by the generically-named Asian Rice Grill. Somewhat ironically, Chego also focused squarely on the rice bowl, and aimed to reinvent the genre via the Chef's street-inspired, cross-cultural stylings.

The restaurant, unsurprisingly, was a near-instant hit, paving the way for Choi to open the more ambitious A-Frame. However, things came to a halt last December, when Chego closed, ostensibly to fix a malfunctioning kitchen. Choi and his team instituted a Chego truck in its place, but by March 2013, they'd confirmed the shutter along with plans to reopen in Chinatown (the space is currently home to Phorage). Chego East, thus, bowed in May, set in the sleepy Far East Plaza in a stall previously occupied by Wu Ha Thai Noodle. As for the Westside, a (very) limited Chego menu is available at the Alibi Room currently while the team searches for a new location.

Chego's menu reads pretty similarly to the one at the original, and interestingly, there's also a delivery option if you happen to live nearby Chinatown. Click for a larger version.

One of the great things about Chego is that it's BYOB, so we definitely made use of that policy and brought along some American craft beer to pair. Up first was the Epic Brewing Co. Sour Apple Saison, which, as the name would imply, was tart and apple-y, but with a Belgian-esque, dry base tinged with a pleasant amount of spice.

Ooey Gooey Fries [$6.00] | beer-battered, w/ sour cream sambal, monterey jack and cheddar cheese, cotija, chilies, cilantro and pickled garlic
Kicking things off was one of Chego's signatures, sort of an Asian-y take on poutine. It was as satisfying as you'd expect, in a slutty sort of way, with the fries themselves wonderfully crisp, enrobed by the richness of cheese and the creeping heat of sambal, all while the cilantro lifted the dish.

3PM Meatballs [$4.00] | Korean-fried, w/ shaved green onions, sesame and fried polenta patty
Meatballs were delish, just full of flavor and delightfully crisp on the outside, with the scallion adding a great brightness and the polenta a palpable heft to things. I would've liked the balls a touch moister, though.

The $12 Salad [$7.00] | baby spinach, mizuna and goat cheese, w/ cranberries, candied pecans, seasonal pickles, miso and fried shallots
This homage to Carl's Jr's $6 Burger may not have commanded the full $12, but was tasty nonetheless. I enjoyed the sweet-savory interplay here, balanced out by the bitter greens while the cheese imparted an earthiness to the fray. The best thing here? Those crisp, salty bits sprinkled on top, which made for some great textural variation.

Next to drink was the limited edition Ballast Point Brewing Company Homework Series #2 - Belgian Style Double India Pale Ale. It was an excellent example of the style, eminently balanced, yet complex, with its bitterness paired with a malty sweetness and much-appreciated traces of fruity zest.

One of my dining companions brought along some homemade daikon kimchi (kkakdugi), which was fantastic alone and even better when paired with some of the dishes, adding a focused crunch and heat to the mix.

Kimchi Spam Bowl [$8.00] | w/ scrambled eggs and baby bok choy w/ a touch of butter and toasted sesame
Getting into the bowls now, I generally don't eat Spam unless it's in musubi form, but the mystery meat was used to great effect here, serving as a superb foil to the light, crunchy bok choy. This might've been my favorite of the bowls--very well integrated, with a subtle spice--but I would've liked more of the canned pork product.

The Leafy T [$8.00] | fried chili garlic tofu rice w/ fried egg, Thai basil, water spinach and fried shallots
Despite having no meat, our second bowl didn't leave me wanting, the tofu coming out hearty, satisfying, and definitely full-flavored. I also appreciated the lushness from that runny egg, as well as those shallots, but the key was the greenery: that vibrant ong choy and aromatic Thai basil giving things a vague, but distinctly Asian-esque flair.

Chubby Pork Belly [$9.00] | kochujang-lacquered Kurobuta rice bowl w/ fried egg, pickled radishes, water spinach, Chinese broccoli, cotija and peanuts
Last up was the much-talked-about pork belly bowl, featuring beautifully charred, crisp chunks of gochujang marinated meat. I could've just eaten the pork alone, but here it served as a force for good in the dish, melding with the various other elements in commendable fashion. I was especially fond of the radishes and gai lan here.

Our third beer was the Logsdon Farmhouse Ales Kili Wit. I found it light and refreshing, with plenty of spice and even a little funk on the palate, moderated by notes of citrus and underlying wheat.

The Chego! Burger: Exhibit A [$10.00] | 1/2 pound grass fed burger, cheese, mayo, chili sauce, fried shallots, wild arugula, Thai basil
The Chego burger, unfortunately, was a bit of a letdown. The patty itself was cooked very rare, with a strong char component, and tasted earthy, beefy--quite good actually. However, the pineapple-y sweetness here was a tad disconcerting, though the arugula did help rein it in. Overall though, the various elements just didn't come together all that cohesively.

Finally, to go with dessert, we popped a bottle of the Firestone Walker Brewing Co. Wookey Jack, which you can sort of think of as a cross between an IPA and a porter. Imagine smoky and roasty qualities, but with a healthy amount of hoppy, citric bitterness and an undercurrent of spicy rye to bring it all together.

Sriracha Bar [$4.00] | chocolate crisped rice bottom, caramel, Sriracha ganache, spiced candied peanuts and dark chocolate
We began with Chego's most well-known dessert, the Sriracha bar, first created by Pastry Chef Beth Kellerhals. The bar had a nondescriptly Asian-y, nutty character to it, highlighted by the sugariness of the chocolate and caramel. It's a great idea, but didn't quite deliver tonight. The nut portion seemed slightly stale to the bite, and I really didn't taste much Sriracha at all.

Piña Krackalada [$6.00] | sweet coconut rice, caramelized pineapple and puffed rice
The Piña Krackalada, unfortunately, wasn't to my liking either. I found the combo of rice and pineapple overly sweet and syrupy, and the overall stickiness of the dessert verged on unnerving as well.

Tres Leches [$4.00] | devil's food cake soaked in cayenne-cinnamon-infused leches w/ tapioca milk pudding and spiced peanut brittle
Our last dessert looked very little like a classic torta de tres leches, but was easily the best of the trio. Think of it as a super dense, moist, dark chocolate cake, but amped up by the inclusion of milk, spice, and a great nutty crunch.

It took me over three years to finally hit up Chego, but I'm happy to report that I was diggin' the food (well, save for the burger and desserts). What you're getting is simple and straightforward, satisfying, but at the same time, the cooking's sort of got a lot going on behind it. It's the type of place that I could see myself visiting quite often if I lived in the area--just get a bowl or two, maybe an app, and you're set.

Far East Plaza

Pok Pok Restaurant
3226 SE Division St, Portland, OR 97202
503.232.1387
www.pokpokpdx.com
Thu 02/27/2014, 08:20p-10:25p

Pok Pok

I took a brief trip up to the Portland/Seattle area recently, and it was actually my first time in either of the two cities. First up was Portland, and naturally, I spent a good amount of time considering the various dining options in the vicinity before deciding on perennial favorite Pok Pok for my introduction to the PDX food scene. Pok Pok is, of course, the game changing Thai restaurant from Chef Andy Ricker that was one of the first to really bring the cuisine of northern Thailand to the limelight.

About the Chef: Ricker was born in 1964 in North Carolina, but spent his formative years largely in Vermont, raised by a mother who was, in the Chef's own words, a "pot-smoking hippie," but also a cook at a local restaurant. He started in the business at age 15, serving as a dishwasher at a Swiss fondue joint, and worked at a number of places in the area throughout high school. Ricker moved out to Vail, Colorado the day of his graduation and got a job there as a short order cook, then made his way up the ranks, eventually reaching the level of sous chef. He later relocated to Los Angeles, though not for culinary reasons, but left the United States to see the world in 1985. He was abroad for four years, landing in New Zealand, Australia, various parts of Asia (including Thailand in 1987), and even Europe, where he cooked at Raymond Blanc's Michelin-ranked Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons in England.

Ricker got back Stateside in 1989, and eventually secured a position at Christopher Israel's Zefiro in Portland. He ended up burning out, however, and, after a short stint as a bartender, took an eight year break from the restaurant business and started a painting company. Ricker's obsession with Thai cookery, thus, came almost accidentally in 1993, when he visited his old friend Chris and his wife Lakhana in Chiang Mai. He tasted a revelatory local puffball mushroom curry called kaeng het thawp, which got him hooked on the bounties of regional, seasonal northern Thai cuisine, and would return many times to further study the food there. After splitting his time between Portland and Thailand for nearly a decade (with a brief detour in 2003 to New York), he launched Pok Pok in 2005 as a take-out stall selling grilled game hens and som tam in the southeast portion of the City (at his own house). The shack garnered quite a following, which led Ricker to turn it into a proper restaurant the next year.

Pok Pok became a huge hit, even scoring the "Restaurant of the Year" award from The Oregonian in 2007. This success allowed Ricker to debut Ping in 2009, a pub-y sort of eatery that made Alan Richman's list of top 10 best new restaurants in the country, and was also The Oregonian's pick for "Rising Star." Ping was followed up by Whiskey Soda Lounge later that year, which had previously resided in the basement of Pok Pok. It served as a bar/lounge serving ahaan kap klaem, or drinking food. In January 2010, Ricker stepped away from Thai for a bit and opened Foster Burger with partners Daniel Mondok and Kurt Huffman, and soon thereafter, got a double dose of James Beard, nominated both for "Best Chef Northwest" and for "Best New Restaurant." In September however, he relinquished his stake in Foster Burger, ostensibly to focus on other projects such as his line of drinking vinegars, which went on sale that December.

March 2011 saw the debut of Pok Pok Noi, a take-out place (though it eventually turned into a full service restaurant the following May). This was followed by Ricker's snagging of James Beard's "Best Chef Northwest" award, and in September, he took over a spot just a few blocks from the original Pok Pok with the goal of transforming it into a curry place. He also announced his New York intentions around this time, and in October, Eddie Huang broke the news that a wing-focused eatery would be taking over his old Baohaus space in the Lower East Side. Meanwhile, Ricker also finalized plans for a full-service Pok Pok in the Red Hook neighborhood of Brooklyn, and simultaneously bowed out of his responsibilities at Ping, citing his growing work load. Pok Pok Wing ended up opening in January 2012, while Pok Pok proper bowed in April. However, the wing joint didn't last long, closing in August and quickly replaced by a pad thai restaurant called Pok Pok Phat Thai.

2013 started with Ricker scrapping the idea for his Portland curry place Pok Pok Lat Khao. Instead, he premiered Sen Yai, a Thai noodle house, in May. Getting back to NYC, the Brooklyn branch of Whiskey Soda Lounge came to fruition that August, and the Chef released his cookbook Pok Pok: Food and Stories from the Streets, Homes, and Roadside Restaurants of Thailand, written in collaboration with JJ Goode, in October. Toward the end of the year, Pok Pok New York moved to a larger space just a few doors up the street, and the old space is reportedly turning into an event space called Suan Pok Pok. 2014, finally, will see the debut of Farang, a feature length documentary detailing Ricker's obsession with Thai cookery and the process of opening up Sen Yai.

Pok Pok's menu focuses on northern Thai, though the kitchen does deviate quite often (hell, the famous wings aren't even Thai). Most of the items are meant for sharing, and many tend to go well with sticky rice and booze. To drink, you'll find a legit cocktail list, a selection of lighter beers, a couple wines (Ricker doesn't seem to be a practitioner of the Night+Market school of pairing wine with Thai), and an impressive selection of whiskies; corkage is a reasonable $10 per bottle. Click for larger versions.

Tamarind Whiskey Sour [$9.00] | Tamarind, fresh lime juice, palm sugar and bourbon on the rocks.
Since it was my first time here, I had to give Pok Pok's signature cocktail a go. It didn't let me down, conveying a wonderful sweet spice against a balance of tart citrus, all underscored by the boozy weight of bourbon. Definitely worth a try.

Ike's Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings [$14.00] | Half dozen fresh whole natural chicken wings marinated in fish sauce and sugar, deep fried, tossed in caramelized Phu Quoc fish sauce and garlic and served with Vietnamese table salad. Our signature dish. Based on our daytime cook Ike's recipe from his home in Vietnam.
Naturally, we had to try the restaurant's much-talked-about wings, and it was quickly obvious why they've remained so popular throughout the years. They were largely the work of Ricker's first employee, Ich "Ike" Truong, and helped get Pok Pok off the ground in the early days. The wings were some of the best I've had: succulent and tender, with great crispy caramelized bits and a taste that perfectly commingled the inherent goodness of the chicken with just the right amount of sweetness and umami-laden funk of fish sauce. Accompanying the meat was a Vietnamese table salad--pickled carrots and daikon, cucumber, lettuce--that helped even out some of the strong flavors at play.

Plaa Neung Buai [$29.00] | steamed branzino with salted plums
Next was one of the evening's specials, a steamed whole Mediterranean seabass that I found tender, flaky, and delightfully delicate tasting. There were some great herb-y aromatics going on here that really elevated the fish without overpowering it, and I was especially fond of the richness of the mushrooms, as well as the sharp pricks of heat provided by the bird's eye chili.

Yam Thua Plun [$12.00] | wingbean "salad"
Another special brought us a plate of winged beans (thawphu), which I liked much more than I thought I would. The dish was super well-integrated and balanced, conveying some really elegant, yet bright and vivacious flavors, and was satisfying texturally as well.

Kaeng Hang Leh [$14.00] | Northern Thai sweet pork belly and pork shoulder curry with ginger, palm sugar, turmeric, tamarind, Burmese curry powder and pickled garlic. Rich and exotically spiced, a Chiang Mai classic with Burmese origins.
A Northern Thai stew gave us gorgeous chunks of pork that recalled hongshao rou, an explosion of deep, sweet, and savory flavors over a balance of tender, fatty, gelatinous flesh. Comforting and utterly gratifying.

Phat Khanaeng [$9.00] | Stir-fried brussels sprouts with Thai chilies, garlic, oyster sauce, soy sauce and fish sauce.
I'm quite the Brussels sprouts fiend, and this was certainly a worthwhile rendition of one of my favorite veggies. I was a big fan of the crunchy, satisfying bite on the sprouts, and how their astringency paired with the rich umami flavors present.

Sai Ua Samun Phrai [$14.00] | Chiang Mai sausage with herbs, Burmese curry powder and aromatics. Charcoal grilled and served with Naam Phrik Num (spicy green chile dip), Khaep Muu (Thai pork rinds) and steamed crudites. Rustic and spicy, should be eaten with sticky rice.
Sai uah's one of my favorite types of tubed meat, and Ricker's was a classic presentation of the style: rustic, gritty, and just teeming with herbaceous, spicy notes that were amped up even more by the heat of the nam phrik num, all while the veggies strived to temper the experience.

Hunny

Hunny [$10.00] | Fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice with lime. Som honey drinking vinegar and tequila.
Our next cocktail featured Ricker's Som drinking vinegar and was quite delicious, giving us a balance between jolts of tart citrus and an undercurrent of honeyed sweetness, the tequila adding just enough gravitas to the mix.

Lord Bergamot [$10.00] | Smith Teas bergamot tea infused vodka. Som honey drinking vinegar, orange liqueur and soda on the rocks.
This next drink also incorporated drinking vinegar, and displayed some great tea-like aromatics that really enveloped the drink's base of honey and orange.

Cha Ca 'La Vong'

Cha Ca "La Vong" [$15.00] | Catfish marinated in turmeric and sour rice, fried in turmeric oil with scallions and dill, served on rice vermicelli with peanuts, mint, cilantro and mam nem. Our stab at the famous dish from La Vong Restaurant in Hanoi, Vietnam.
Ricker returns to Vietnam here with his take on the legendary namesake dish of Cha Ca La Vong restaurant. It was a surprise winner, and quite possibly the best catfish I'd ever tasted. The fish was perfect texturally, and showed off a mouthwatering depth and complexity to it that melded seamlessly with the vibrant, verdant flavors of the various greenery here, all while the rice noodles moderated the entire interaction. Great crunch from those peanuts, too.

Hoi Thawt [$13.00] | Crispy broken crepe with steamed fresh mussels, eggs, garlic, chives and bean sprouts, served with Shark Sri Racha sauce. Thai street vendor's specialty, popular in night markets.
Yet another surprise hit of the night was the crepe, the dish showing off an almost hash brown-esque savor to it that really hit the spot, a perfect stage on which the brine of the mussels could really sing. Countering that was the lightness and crunch of the chives and sprouts, while the hot sauce added a fantastic bit of heat to complete the dish. Excellent--you can almost think of this as the best banh xeo that you've ever had.

Papaya Pok Pok [$9.00] | Spicy green papaya salad with tomatoes, long beans, Thai chili, lime juice, tamarind, fish sauce, garlic, palm sugar, dried shrimp and peanut, made to order in the pok pok (mortar and pestle). Our namesake. Needs Sticky Rice!!
Our final savory was Pok Pok's signature som tam, a laudable execution of the classic that gave us a mélange of disparate textures and a flavor profile that brought together sour, sweet, and a creeping undertone of spice with the bright nuances of papaya, the dried shrimp adding just the right amount of funk to the fray.

There are only a handful of desserts on offer at Pok Pok, which are joined by a surprisingly lengthy list of digestifs. Click for a larger version.

Pok Pok Affogato [$7.50] | Condensed milk ice cream drowned in a shot of Vietnamese coffee, served with patangko, fried Thai-style savory crullers.
Ricker's pathongko were superb with their combination of sweet and savory flavors and crisp bite, and ate very similarly to Chinese style youtiao. I thoroughly enjoyed them alone, but the application of affogato added another layer of goodness to the dessert.

Coconut Ice Cream Sandwich [$7.00] | Coconut-jackfruit ice cream served on a sweet bun with peanuts, sweet sticky rice, condensed milk and chocolate syrup. Found on any Thai street, especially in the markets.
We had to end with Pok Pok's ice cream sandwich. What set this apart I think was the jackfruit, which imparted another facet of fruitiness to things that really permeated the dessert. Everything just came together nicely here in sort of a light-hearted, multifaceted sweetness accented by a few savory bits here and there.

Pok Pok was a great introduction to the Portland food scene, and just a great meal in general, one filled with bold, yet balanced flavors that nonetheless managed to convey a certain elegance and finesse that you might not typically associate with Thai cookery. I can see how Ricker's cooking is helping change the face of the cuisine in the States, giving diners a taste of dishes that really weren't represented before, and still aren't for the most part, at least with the dash of bravado you find here. Can't make it to Portland? Kris Yenbamroong's Night+Market is like Pok Pok's brother from another mother, and has the benefit of Kris' own unique take on the food to boot.

Castagna Restaurant
1752 SE Hawthorne Blvd, Portland, OR 97214
503.231.7373
www.castagnarestaurant.com
Fri 02/28/2014, 07:00p-11:00p

Castagna Exterior

After an invigorating meal at Pok Pok the previous evening, we decided upon pretty much its polar opposite tonight: Castagna, the sole bastion of modernist-ish cooking here in Portland. The restaurant was founded back in 1999 (and the attached cafe in 2002) as a rustic Italianate place by Monique Siu, who's known around these parts as the former pastry chef/co-owner of Christopher Israel's groundbreaking Zefiro (where, coincidentally, Andy Ricker worked prior to delving head first into Thai). Her opening chef/partner was Kevin Gibson, who left in 2007 and has since launched both Evoe and Davenport. He was replaced by Elias Cairo, who stayed for a year before leaving to start Olympic Provisions.

The chef who really put Castagna on the map, though, was Matthew Lightner, who took over in late '09. Siu took a gamble on the 28-year-old Mugaritz and Noma alum, and in less than two years, he'd transformed the eatery into the most cutting edge joint in the City with his naturalistic, heavily-foraged plates. People took notice. In 2010, Lightner was deemed a semi-finalist in the annual James Beard awards, cooked a dinner at the Beard house in New York, and also snagged Food & Wine's "Best New Chef" prize, while Castagna was named "Restaurant of the Year" by The Oregonian. Lightner eventually got the itch to move to NYC, though, and left at the end of 2011 to start Atera, which has since garnered two stars from Michelin. He was replaced by his right hand man, Chef de Cuisine Justin Woodward, who had some pretty big shoes to fill.

About the Chef: Woodward was born in 1982 in Boston, but grew up in the San Diego region, helping his grandmother in the kitchen and his father in the family garden. He attended Torrey Pines High School, graduating in 2001, and started working at various restaurants in the area. Feeling a need for a more formal education, he enrolled at the Art Institute of California's San Diego campus in 2003 and secured a culinary degree two years later. During his tenure at the AI, Woodward cooked at Blackhorse Grille in Del Mar under Ryan Johnston, a friend of Grant Achatz's who introduced him to the modernist techniques that were being pioneered at Alinea at the time. His interest piqued, he started working at L'Auberge Del Mar in 2005 (where Paul McCabe made a name for himself), which is where he first met Matt Lightner.

Woodward's next move was to New York in 2008, where he spent a year in pastry under Alinea vet Alex Stupak; also in his cohort there was Rosio Sanchez, who just happens to be the head pastry chef at Noma now. He would stage at Noma the following year, as well as at Mugaritz, Corton, and Eleven Madison Park--an impressive compendium no doubt. He then moved back to California, where he worked briefly under Steven Rojas at El Bizcocho at Rancho Bernardo Inn, but quickly relocated to Portland to cook for Lightner once he was hired at Castagna. The two formed a tight, well-oiled team together, and when Lightner left in 2011, Woodward was able to transition relatively seamlessly (and yes, he was asked to work at Atera, but declined). Like his predecessor, he's been singled out by James Beard, first in 2013 as a "Rising Star Chef" semi-finalist, then just recently in February as a semi-finalist for "Best Chef: Northwest."

There are a couple ways to dine at Castagna. First is a three-course prix fixe at $65 plus $35 for wine pairing, and then a Chef's Tasting Menu at $110 plus $55 (seen above), both options preceded by a half-dozen or so "snacks." For fans of the sweeter stuff, there's also a previously off-menu three-course dessert flight at $25+$12. If you opt out of the beverage pairings, you'll also find a varied selection of wines (corkage is $20 a bottle) as well as cocktails by Bartender David Cooper. Click for a larger version.

1a: Beet chips, beef tartar, black truffle
Covides, Brut, Cava, Penedés, Spain NV
Our gauntlet of snacks began with these beet chips, draped over black truffle and beef tartare. They were fun little amuses, the sugariness of the root veggie playing off of the savory, slightly tangy meat well.

1b: Buckwheat, avocado, jalapeño
Covides, Brut, Cava, Penedés, Spain NV
Even better were these dollops of avocado, jalapeño, and clover sprout, sandwich between shards of buckwheat tuile. Here, I really liked the refreshing brightness of the bites--that astringency of the sprouts in particular--and how that paired with the nutty heft of the crackers. Very good.

1c: Buttermilk, trout roe, egg
Covides, Brut, Cava, Penedés, Spain NV
Yes, I know, these look like boobs. With that out of the way, I must say that were damn tasty. The buttermilk meringue really melted on the tongue, in the process evening out the lushness of the egg underneath, all while the trout roe contributed a salty accent to the bite.

1d: Onion, white bean, winter cress
Covides, Brut, Cava, Penedés, Spain NV
A base of savory cipollini onion custard served as the foundation to this dish, providing an earthy, weighty backdrop against which the piquant flavors of scallion, winter cress, pea shoots, and charcoal drops could really dance. I was a fan of the white bean here as well, which moderated the interaction and provided a bit of textural variation to the mix.

1e: Raspberry, sheep cheese, shiso
Covides, Brut, Cava, Penedés, Spain NV
Here, raspberry leather was swathed atop a combination of sheep's milk cheese and shiso, the tart sweetness of the fruit really working well alongside the contrasting lactic and minty flavors below.

1f: Satsuma, Mandarin, espelette
Covides, Brut, Cava, Penedés, Spain NV
In a wine glass came a Satsuma and Mandarin gelée, which put forth a blast of citrusy sweetness that transitioned to the creeping spice from the piment d'Espelette drizzled on top.

1g: Salmon, daikon, ginger
Covides, Brut, Cava, Penedés, Spain NV
Our final snack brought us smoked salmon, ginger, and daikon. I was impressed here by how the smokiness of the fish was so smartly paired against the daikon and ginger, all while icy bits imparted a great temperature contrast to the dish.

2: Shigoku oyster with chorizo
The first proper course of the evening was a singular Shigoku, one that really conveyed an intense brine, a burst of salty, ocean-y goodness that was moderated only slightly by an overarching touch of chorizo spice.

3: Dungeness crab, celery root, pickled garlic and toasted crab emulsion
Ostatu, Rioja Alevesa, Ebro River Valley, Spain 2012
Dungeness was superb, the sweetness of the crustacean on proud display, acute and unmistakable, yet perfectly paired with the herbaceous, slightly sweet-n-sour notes in the course. A real showcase of crab--delicious.

Rye rolls, smoked pork lardo, house-churned butter

Rye rolls, smoked pork lardo, house-churned butter

Bread service consisted of lovely rye dinner rolls, accompanied by smoked pork lardo and house-churned butter. I was rather enamored with the bread even by itself, but a smear of butter (regular or porcine) made it all the better.

4: Fresh shucked razor clam, Frog Eyes wasabi, potato and lime
Weingut Willi Brundlmayer, Riesling, Kamptaler Terrassem, Kamptal, Austria 2011
I'm a big fan of razor clam, and Woodward did them proud here, balancing their bright, saline flavors--augmented by what I believe was an oyster purée--against the zing of kaffir zest. The potato, meanwhile, was key as well, serving to ground and temper the entire dish.

Beet, blood orange, onion

The kitchen sent out a "bonus" course comprising roasted beet, blood orange Béarnaise, cipollini, endive, nasturtium, wild onion, and tarragon powder. It was a smart presentation of the root veggie, its sweetness well matched by the myriad of bitter, astringent flavors at play, the endive imparting a superb crunch to the dish. I think I'm starting to like beet more and more...

5: Yellowfoot chanterelles with pork and hop infusion, dill and thyme
Domaine Labet, Fleur de Chardonnay, Côtes du Jura, France 2011
Yellowfoots arrived with roast carrot, mushroom and parsley purées, thyme, malt, dill oil, and pork jus, displaying shades of the mushroom's earthiness amplified by the meatiness of the pork infusion, all while the various herbs countered with a bright, bitter tint. Quite a lot going on here, though I would've liked the chanterelle to have been more forward in its presentation.

6: Creamy stew of sturgeon and crab with charred leeks
Schloss Gobelsburg, Grüner Veltliner, Gobelsburger, Kamptal, Austria 2012
A favorite was the sturgeon, which came with coriander, kohlrabi, leeks, crab, and Meyer lemon. The fish itself was spot on, giving us a fantastic salinity and savor that melded swimmingly with the crab. At the same time, I loved the leeks as well, which provided the course with a counterbalancing crunch and astringency that really brought everything together.

7: Roasted lamb sweetbreads, apple, wild licorice
Podere Ruggeri Corsini, Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2010
Sweetbreads were deftly presented, their earthy, offal-y richness vibrantly conveyed, yet enhanced by a touch of brown butter while celery root provided a moderating element. The use of apple and licorice, though, was key, adding a sweet spice to the dish that really set it apart.

8: Duck, white sausage, wild rice, duck liver enriched gastrique
J. Christopher, La Mer, Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District, Oregon 2011
Duck comprised our final savory course, and was one of the most "ducky" preparations of the protein I'd had in recent memory, the liver-enriched jus really amplifying the bird's inherent flavors. Fortunately, the large leaf of kohlrabi contributed a much-appreciated bitterness to the course, and I was a big fan of that chicken sausage, too.

9: Huckleberry
Elio Perrone, Bigaro, Moscato/Brachetto, Piedmont, Italy 2012
The first dessert was a hit at the table, a well-constructed mélange of sweet, tart, and floral nuances in the form of a huckleberry sorbet and frozen buttermilk financier.

10: Apple leaf and vanilla
Apple was the star of the show in our next dessert, the fruit working flawlessly with the rich, buttery notes in the dish, the pecan streusel adding a great savory crunch to the mix. Yum.

11: Meyer lemon, brown butter ice, green juniper
Domaine Des Baumard, Coteaux du Layon Carte D’Or, Anjou, Loire, France 2011
Here, the tartness of Meyer lemon and sugariness of brown butter worked hand-in-hand together, forming a base on which the green flavors of garden sorrel, pine, and juniper could really sing. Sticks infused with cinnamon, meanwhile, imparted a sweet spice to the dessert, and also provided some textural variation.

12: Mignardises
Lastly: Crème anglaise bonbons, and coffee-enriched wafers.

Sadly, I never had the opportunity to dine at Castagna while Matt Lightner was at the helm, but Woodward appears to be holding down the fort just fine. His food is oft described as "New Northwest Cuisine," which to me means a manner imbued with a sort of modern sensibility, but one with a naturalistic bent highlighting a sense of place unique to the region. The food may look precious, but the flavors are smartly-crafted and worth experiencing, yet somehow grounded. It's a style that speaks to me, and you'd be remiss if you visited Portland and didn't at least consider this place.

Peking Tavern Restaurant
806 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.988.8308
www.pekingtavern.com
Tue 02/11/2014, 07:00p-09:50p

One could say that the shutter of The Parish last October marked the beginning of the end for LA's gastropub craze. Or perhaps, the movement is shifting focus to its next evolution, the so-called "ethnic" gastropub exemplified by the likes of Bizarra Capital, Badmaash, Corazon & Miel, and tonight's subject, Peking Tavern, which just happens to be located in the basement of the National City Tower Lofts in Downtown, a stone's throw away from The Parish's former digs. Peking Tavern's advertised as a Chinese--specifically Beijing--gastropub, one dedicated to Northern-style street food and home-style cookery.

The place soft-opened at the start of October 2013, coincidentally mere days after The Parish's closure, and is the work of partners Andrew Chiu and Andrew Wong, two longtime friends who met while attending the USC School of Architecture in the late 1980's. Following graduation, the two went their separate ways, but both eventually landed in China, where they reconnected and developed a taste for Chinese cuisine. The Andrews returned Stateside in 2011, and soon started work on Peking Tavern through their newly-founded hospitality design and consultancy firm El Guapo Group LLC, best known for their work on Sandwich Smith/Fickle in Little Tokyo. The Tavern is far from a chef-driven sort of concept, but nevertheless is ostensibly headed by two O.G. Chinese chushi: Tianjin native Ms. Liu from the old 100 Dumpling House in Monterey Park and dumpling/noodle specialist Danny from Hong Kong (who's also worked in Japan and at Mr. Chow apparently).

Along with Crane's Bar, Peking Tavern's housed in the basement of a 12-story, 1924-era Beaux-Arts building that also holds the DTLA outpost of Terroni on its ground floor. The elongated spot takes up just under 3,000 square-feet and is pretty bare, with just a hint of old school Chinatown from those lanterns. A bar lines most of one wall; mirrored by a row of communal high-tops, while the rest of the room is filled out by regular tables. Large windows in the dining room, meanwhile, afford patrons a view of the kitchen's noodle making station.

The Peking Tavern menu is refreshingly short, a selection of starters, dumplings, noodles, and hand-y type dishes that don't change much save for the occasional special. Click for a larger version.

Though the food is pretty traditional, the beverages are more unexpected. There's a pretty nice selection of 18 beers on tap (along with Yanjing in bottles), along with a handful of wines, but everyone seems to be talking about the cocktails. Early on, it was reported that Lindsay Nader was designing the list here, but it ended up being the work of Cari Hah (Cole's, Neat Bar, The Varnish), who's now at the new City Tavern. Nevertheless, her influences are still seen all over the menu, especially with the much bandied about baijiu cocktails, made with Red Star erguotou. These days, the beverage program is largely overseen by Sybil Lin, who also serves as the restaurant's GM. Click for larger versions.

Wong Chiu Punch [$10.00] | Bai Jiu, Hibiscus, Fresh Lemon Juice
The restaurant's signature cocktail is named after its two owners and represents an approachable introduction to the world of baijiu, the weight of the liquor effectively cut by the sweet, floral hibiscus and sour notes from the lemon.

Pork Dumpling [$6.50] | Boiled-Pork and Cabbage, Most Popular in China
Jiaozi here are all made on-site, and we began with the most prototypical of them all. Served six to an order, they were a commendable preparation of the classic, the pork arriving flavorful and juicy, the veggies adding a perfect counterpoint to the dumplings. The skins were also on point, and a combination of soy sauce and vinegar served as a great accompaniment.

Peachy Keen [$8.00] | Bourbon, Peach Nectar, Ginger, Fresh Lemon Juice
Our next cocktail featured bourbon as a base, the booze nicely paired with the sugary peach while ginger and lemon contributed a bright accent to the drink.

Mala Potato Slaw [$5.00]
I was quite a fan of the mala slaw, really taking a liking to the thin, crunchy strands of potato and how they played off of the zesty, slightly numbing character of the chili oil.

Beef Potsticker [$7.00] | Panfried or Boiled
Guotie were delicious as well, showing off all the classic goodness that you'd expect in a potsticker. Lovely texture on the pan-fried skin, too.

Beef Roll [$7.00] | Sliced Braised Beef Shank with Cilantro, Green Onions, Sweet and Savory Sauce
Peking Tavern's take on the niu rou juan bing was certainly praiseworthy. The beef shank itself came out properly tender, conveying a combination of savory and sweet that went superbly with the zing of scallions and cilantro. The wrapper, meanwhile, was nicely thin, and pretty flaky too, a fitting vessel for the meat within. One of my dining companions even thought that this compared favorably to 101 Noodle Express's legendary version of the roll.

L.A. Ale Works Gams-Bart Roggenbier / Firestone Walker 805 Honey Blonde

L.A. Ale Works Gams-Bart Roggenbier / Firestone Walker 805 Honey Blonde

Time for some beer. I wanted to sample the Firestone Walker 805 Honey Blonde [$8] since the brewery was actually in the house this evening promoting their wares. I'd never tried it before, but found it quite enjoyable, an easy-drinking, sessionable brew, nicely balanced with notes of sweet malt and cereal-y character, along with a light hop quality. It's probably something that every beer drinker can enjoy. The same, however, could not be said of the L.A. Ale Works Gams-Bart Roggenbier [$7], which was much more of an acquired taste. Think spicy, and smoky, yet light, with a distinct breadiness and bitterness from the use of rye.

Scallion Pancake [$5.00]
The cong you bing was a legitimate preparation of the traditional scallion pancake. The flatbread displayed the mild savor of the dough, interjected with pinpoints of astringency from the green onion. Tasty alone, but even better when eaten with the pork belly below.

Seafood Dumpling [$9.00] | Boiled-Shrimp, Scallop and Egg
Next up were shrimp and scallop jiaozi, which made a surprisingly strong showing. The seafood folded within was pretty much perfectly cooked, not overdone at all and really imbued with a savory brine that paired swimmingly with the included chili sauce.

Sliced Pork Belly Charcuterie [$6.00] | Boiled and Flavored with Garlic Paste, Served Slightly Chilled
I was a fan of the chilled pork belly too, finding the relatively subdued slices of meat a fitting pair to the piquant kick of the included condiment, all while the cucumber and scallion added a much-appreciated bit of brightness to the mix. As I mentioned above, I'd suggest taking the belly and its various accoutrements and wrapping them up in the scallion pancake. The combination was suggested by one of the Andrews, and made for a pretty amazing bite.

Veggie Dumpling [$7.00] | Steamed-Tofu, Glass Noodle, Shitake Mushroom, Woodear, Cabbage
Vegetable dumplings, unfortunately, were the least successful dish of the night. I didn't have an issue with the actual filling per se, as the amalgam of noodle, tofu, shiitake, cabbage, and mu er made for a mélange of tastes and textures. Rather, the skin was my concern, as I found it overly tough and a bit chewy, probably a result of the steaming process. I think they'd be better pan-fried, or perhaps boiled.

Fri Chicken [$7.50]
Peking Tavern's take on fried chicken is worth a try as well. It wasn't what I expected actually, with boneless strips of meat coming out with a light, crisp, almost karaage-esque batter. Flavor-wise, the chicken delivered in spades, bringing forth loads of savory, spicy nuances that were further intensified by the condiment on the side.

Chive Turkey [$6.50]
Jiaozi of turkey and chive were enjoyable, though not as exciting as some of the other options here, presenting a flavor profile reminiscent of a less robust version of the pork dumplings above.

Spicy Beef Noodle Soup [$8.50] | Braised Beef Shank with Fresh Noodle, Chinese Sauerkraut, Cilantro
The niurou mian was a must-try for me, and didn't disappoint, with the tender cuts of beef working hand-in-hand with the cilantro, tangy suan cai, and slippery noodles to form an utterly satisfying eating experience. The best part? That wonderfully spicy, aromatic, deeply-flavored broth, which we eagerly supped up at the end.

Peking Coffee [$10.00] | Bai Jiu, Coffee and Horchata Liqueur
Getting back to cocktails, what we had here was easily the most "dessert-y" selection on the menu, with a load of sweet spice to go with the strong coffee elements in the drink. You could barely detect the baijiu, and it did occur to me that this might just be fantastic as an ice cream.

Zhajiang Noodle Small Bowl [$5.00] | Fresh Noodle Topped with Fried Soybean Paste, Pork, Tofu, Cucumber, Bean Sprouts
Here we had Peking Tavern's take on zhajiangmian, made with hand-pulled noodles (a special request). The dish delivered as well, the dark, umami-laden relish of the fermented soybean coating each and every noodle, its weightiness lightened up by the bright crunch of cucumber and carrot. Very nice texture on the lamian, too.

An off-menu item you should definitely get is the restaurant's version of hong you chaoshou, basically Sichuanese-style fish wontons in hot chili oil (priced at $8.00). The dumplings themselves were spot on, the essence of the fish really coming through. But taken with the spicy oil...talk about a winning combination.

Smashed Cucumbers [$5.00]
Cucumbers were light, bright, and crunchy, a refreshing respite from our heavier courses with its garlicky, salty-n-sour jolt. I appreciated the incorporation of wood ear here for texture, too.

Tomato and Egg Noodle [$7.00] | Fresh Noodle Topped with Tomato, Egg, Sauce
We ended, appropriately, with the tomato-egg noodles, a homey, comforting sort of dish that rendered the classic combination of the two ingredients over a base of slick, slightly chewy glass noodles.

I'm happy to report that I was pleasantly surprised by Peking Tavern. I'm no expert in SGV dining, but from what I can tell, the dishes here do largely stand up to what the Valley has to offer. Add to that the comfy environment and a lovely selection of booze, and you get a really welcomed addition to the Downtown scene that we've been missing for some time now. It's the sort of place I could envision myself visiting regularly if I lived in the area. I would, however, like to see some sort of dessert option offered here in the future (shaved snow or ice cream come to mind).

Le Pigeon Restaurant
738 E Burnside St, Portland, OR 97214
503.546.8796
www.lepigeon.com
Sat 03/01/2014, 08:00p-11:30p

Le Pigeon Exterior

I closed out my short stay in Portland with a visit to Gabriel Rucker's Le Pigeon, a 36-seat spot in Lower Burnside known for the Chef's "haute comfort" creations. Since opening in 2006, it's sort of become the place to dine, a poster boy for the PDX dining scene that's mirrored the City's rise in our country's culinary conversation.

About the Chef: Born in 1981, Gabe Rucker spent his childhood in Napa, California, the son of his machinist father Dave and elementary school teacher Laurie. Growing up, he didn't have the benefit of many home-cooked meals, and got his first culinary job in high school, making bagels at Kirk & Glotzer's NY Bagels in his hometown. After graduating in 1999, he enrolled at Santa Rosa Junior College and quickly got on the school's culinary arts track, but dropped out a year later. Rucker soon found employment at Napa's Silverado Resort & Spa, then made his way south to Santa Cruz when he was 20, landing a gig at Southern Exposure Bistro.

He excelled there given the considerable creative freedom he was given, but would leave in 2003 for Portland. Rucker started working at Lazlow's, but only stayed a couple months before moving to Vitaly Paley's eponymous Paley's Place, where he worked the line for two years. In 2005, he became transitioned to Gotham Building Tavern, which is where he met his future sous Erik Van Kley, as well as his future wife Hana Kaufman. The next year, he cooked a brief stint at Cathy Whims' Nostrana before partnering with Paul Brady to revamp the ailing Colleen's Bistro on East Burnside.

The restaurant was renamed Le Pigeon and debuted in June 2006, quickly becoming a hit with the locals, with Rucker garnering Portland Monthly's "Chef of the Year" and The Oregonian's "Rising Star" awards. This was followed in 2007 by Restaurant and Hospitality's "Rising Star" prize, a nod from Food & Wine as one of "America's Best New Chefs," and the hiring of New Yorker Andy Fortgang as GM, who soon raised the level of service to something befitting the food. 2008 saw Le Pigeon as The Oregonian's co-restaurant of the year, as well as Rucker's first "Rising Star Chef" nomination from James Beard, an honor he would repeat in 2009, 2010 (along with "Best Chef: Northwest"), and 2011 (when he would finally win). Given the success of his restaurant, the Chef opened his second place, Little Bird, in December 2010, a more straightforward French bistro helmed by his old sous Erik Van Kley. Last year, Rucker won another Beard, snagging the "Best Chef: Northwest" honor, and also launched his cookbook Le Pigeon: Cooking at the Dirty Bird, written in collaboration with Meredith Erickson and with photos by David Reamer (who cooked alongside the Chef in Santa Cruz).

Le Pigeon's menu is short, and, it must be noted, not as offal-centric as it used to be, split simply between starters and mains, but with the option of either five- or seven-course tasting menus. Given that it was our first time here though, we opted to order à la carte. To drink, there's a pretty nice selection of wines, rounded out by some beers and ciders. Click for larger versions.

We mainly went for wine this evening, the first of which was the Crémant du Jura Brut Rosé, Champ Divin, '11 [$52]. It was a nice sparkler, crisp and dry, with a tingly effervescence and a base of red berries that made it a fun start to the meal.

Bread & Butter

Bread was nothing out of the ordinary, but did the job, and functioned as a fitting pair to the salt-laced butter.

Crab Stuffed Leeks [$15.00] | shrimp, buttermilk, preserved lemon, nettle honey
We began with a recommendation for our server. Crab was delectably sweet, pairing beautifully with the savory bits of shrimp strewn around, and working as a great complement to the astringency of the leeks. I liked how the lemon contributed a sort of overarching tartness that tied everything together--a promising beginning.

Beef Carpaccio [$17.00] | pear, truffle, candy cap mushrooms, sheep cheese
The carpaccio sounded neat on paper, but was unfortunately the weakest course of the evening. It just wasn't very "beefy," so to speak, with the goodness of the meat a bit lost among all the competing flavors of sweet and bitter on the plate.

Escargot Ravioli [$17.00] | parsley, garlic, parmesan
I'm a sucker for anything escargot, and this didn't let me down, giving up and the classic, buttery, garlicky, tangy flavors that you'd expect over the earthy weight of the snails, but in a new pasta form.

Warm Rabbit Salad [$16.00] | endive, pistachio, apricot, tarragon
The rabbit was also a bit of a letdown. I enjoyed the crunch and bitterness of the endive here, played against the sweet-nutty notes present, but again, I wanted to have the rabbit more readily apparent.

Bordatto 'Basa Jaun', Basse Navarre, France

With the bubbly all drunk up, we moved on to cider, specifically the Bordatto "Basa Jaun", Basse Navarre, France [$32]. Now this was my kind of cidre, the dry and fizzy type with notes of sweet apple initially that led to a biting, focused funk toward the back end.

Eel Pie

Eel Pie [$16.00] | broccoli ice cream, radish, grilled broccoli
The name "eel pie" may sound off-putting, but the dish was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the night. The pie portion itself really showed off the hearty savoriness of the fish, paired with a wonderfully crisp crust. The charred veggies formed a great counterpoint in the course, but what really made this special was the use of broccoli ice cream, which added a pretty awesome temperature contrast to the mix.

Seared Foie Gras [$22.00] | smoked sable, latkes, trout roe & maple crème fraîche
This was another favorite of mine, coming out much better than I thought it would. The richness of the foie was perfectly balanced by the crisp, savory potato, while the sable and roe imparted a smoky, saline temper to the liver. Rounding things out was just the right amount of sweetness from the maple syrup--a beautifully integrated course, and one of the best renditions of foie gras I've had in recent times.

Pan Roasted Diver Scallops [$33.00] | seafood & celery fried rice, black garlic purée, oyster mushroom
Moving on into the main courses now, we commenced with the special of the evening. Scallops were deftly prepared, coming out salty and supple, with great caramelization. I was a fan out of how they went with the briny flavors in the fried rice, and how the dish in general had a sort of familiar Asian-y flair to it that was strangely comforting.

Pork & Clams [$28.00] | smoked ricotta dumplings, morel ragoût, peas
Pork was beautifully done, arriving super succulent, flavorful, and just the right amount of peppery, standing its ground against the earthy weight of morel. The bacon-y, spicy, savory broth further enhanced the heft of the dish, and I was really into the moderating effect of the gnocchi and peas here, too. Very nice.

Our final beverage was a half-liter carafe of the Blaufränkisch, Peter Schandl, '11, Burgenland [$30]. Blaufränkisch is a varietal I don't get to have all that often, but I quite liked it here, finding the wine peppery, herbaceous, and light in body with a somewhat pronounced tartness and acidity.

Duck Confit [$27.00] | goat cheese hummus, radish, avocado, cilantro
Getting into the heavier stuff now, the duck was yet another favorite. The bird itself was spot on: tender, juicy, bursting with flavor, and finished with a delightfully crisp crust. Add to that the lush brightness of avocado, the moderating heft of garbanzo, and verve of radish and cilantro, and you get a fantastic interplay of differing tastes and textures that really came together.

Beef Cheek Bourguignon '2014' [$25.00]
We ended our savories with one of Le Pigeon's most well-known dishes, the ever-changing bœuf à la Bourguignonne. It was a worthy pièce de résistance this evening, coming to us as deep, dark, and tender as one would expect, a celebration of bovine goodness mercifully evened out by the inclusion of onion, button mushroom, watercress, and especially those sour cream potatoes. If you haven't been here before, you should probably order this.

Dessert at Le Pigeon is the handiwork of Pastry Chef Lauren Fortgang (née Dawson), who, indeed, just happens to be married to GM Andy. Fortgang also heads the pastry kitchen at Little Bird, and previously, worked at Paley's Place as well as Hearth and Craft in New York. She has a short menu of items here, split between seasonal and classic selections, joined by a surprisingly long list of dessert wines (which includes, among other things, Madeira from 1907). Click for larger versions.

Banana Lime Sorbet [$6.00] | with coconut macaroons
We started with one of her rotating selections of sorbet, this particular example showing off tart notes of lime on the attack before transitioning to sweet, fruity banana nuances toward the end.

Crème Brûlée [$10.00] | seville orange pot de creme, burnt honey meringue, cinnamon rugelach
Le Pigeon's crème brûlée was classic in essence, replete with a wondrously bitter, crunchy caramelized top hiding a layer of creamy custard. Off to the side, meanwhile, was a pot de crème that was super tangy, really displaying the bittersweet nature of the Seville orange.

Foie Gras Profiteroles [$4.00/each] | caramel sauce, sea salt
The restaurant's most notorious dessert, unsurprisingly, is the foie gras profiterole, which incorporates both foie butter and dehydrated foie. It really did showcase the earthy quintessence of the liver though, conveying its offal-y richness against a balance of sugary caramel and salt.

Huckleberry and Sambuca Seis Leches Cake [$10.00] | milk crumb, fennel pollen
We've all had tres leches, but Le Pigeon turns the dial up to six with this version incorporating condensed milk, evaporated milk, regular milk, and coconut milk, with a crust of malted milk and powdered milk. It managed to be my favorite of the desserts, a moist, creamy cake that nicely played classic flavors against the tartness of huckleberry.

Last up was a "bonus" dessert, described as a Tokyo-style cheesecake with mango and elderflower. I rather liked it, finding the cake pleasantly restrained in its sweetness, with a tangy counterweight in the form of that mango. Lovely crunch from the quinoa tuile, too.

Le Pigeon Chocolates

Finally, Le Pigeon-branded chocolates to close.

Though the meal had a couple weak spots, I nonetheless walked away satisfied with Le Pigeon, making it a fitting way to wrap up my brief time in Portland. Rucker's cooking isn't exactly boundary pushing, but it is highly effective, fun, and tasty, sort of combining the best of French bistro fare with the bounty of the Pacific Northwest and his own nervy, oft-decadent style. There were some great flavors at play tonight, depth and balance too, making for a simultaneously serious, yet playful sort of energy that is obviously working for the restaurant. Give the place a go if you're in the area.

The Bottle Room Restaurant & Bar
6741 Greenleaf Ave, Whittier, CA 90601
562.696.8000
www.thebottleroombar.com
Mon 03/10/2014, 07:40p-12:05a

The Bottle Room Exterior

I'd heard about The Bottle Room here and there, but it's one of those places that never really was on my radar. What brought me here was an old MBA classmate of mine from Thailand who just happened to be in town for a few days. With him driving from Covina, me from near LAX, and another friend from Yorba Linda, Whittier seemed like a reasonable, central point to meet. After considering some of the options in the area, we settled upon this place, located in the historic heart of the City, not far from Bizarra Capital.

The restaurant is owned by Los Angeles firemen Patrick Best and Brandon Ibrahim, who opened the place in 2009. In the kitchen, meanwhile, is Tony Alcazar, a CSCA-Le Cordon Bleu graduate who previously worked at the defunct Mako in Beverly Hills, PRG's Nick & Stef's in Downtown, as well as The Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton in Pasadena (now The Royce), where he cooked for six years under Craig Strong.

The menu is pretty much par for the course, featuring the expected bar type fare. Click for larger versions.

More interesting is the Bottle Room's beer selection, with two dozen varieties on draft and a nice array of bottles as well. There's also a small list of wines too, if you must. Click for larger versions.

In addition to getting a couple samplers of the stuff on tap, we went with a few bottles as well, the first of which was the Dogfish Head Noble Rot [$22], a beer that I'd been curious about for years. It's basically a saison with the addition of grape must (including some infected by botrytis), and as a result, was very wine-y, with juicy grape notes to go along with the yeasty, spicy, somewhat acidic character of the brew.

The Nixon [$14.00] | Italian Sausage Meat Sauce, Bacon, Chorizo and Pepperoni
The Bottle Room has a number of flatbread type pizzas on the menu, and we opted for the most meat centric version, ostensibly named after our 37th President. It was a pretty straightforward option, just what you'd expect, a combination of spicy meat and cheese over a crisp crust that neither wowed nor disappointed.

BBQ Prawn 'Cocktail'

BBQ Prawn "Cocktail" [$9.00] | Sweet and Spicy Jumbo Prawns over Horseradish Scented Coleslaw
Prawns were a touch overcooked by my standards, but still enjoyable, with a pleasant barbeque-y savor to 'em and char that worked with the creamy, cooling effect of the slaw.

Sticking with the same producer here, we chose the Dogfish Head Palo Santo Marron [$9] next. It was a very different beer, a brown ale aged in wood that had plenty of malty, caramel-y flavors to it joined by a pleasant roasty-woody quality.

Slow Braised Short Rib 'Pot Roast'

Slow Braised Short Rib "Pot Roast" [$9.00] | With Yukon Gold Potatoes and Thumbelina Carrots
The short rib was arguably the strongest course of the night, arriving to the table fork tender and dripping with dark, bovine flavors, the root veggies working to even out its heft. Basically just what you want when it comes to a chunk of braised rib.

Tony Tots [$5.00] | Homemade Potato Tots with Chipotle Aioli
The restaurant's take on Tater Tots was a must-try for me, and I was pleasantly surprised by them. You had all the classic Tot taste, but texturally these were much more interesting, and I appreciated how the aioli helped tie it all together.

Our next beer was the St. Bernardus Wit [$9], which I'd never tried before, surprisingly. It actually turned out to be one of the best witbiers I've had in recent times, with its classic spicy-citrusy nuances and an almost floral overtone to it.

Mini Bottle Room Burgers [$7.00] | Sweet Onion Relish with Blue and Swiss Cheeses
The sliders were the weakest course we had, mostly due to the meat being rather on the dry side. The combination of beef, cheese, and sweet onion should work, but the components here just didn't jive all that well together.

Shoestring Potatoes [$5.00] | Skinny Fries tossed in Sea Salt and Raw Garlic
The fries were fairly prototypical, but quite good when taken with the paired condiment (I believe it was a garlic aioli).

We ended with a sour, the Mikkeller Spontanwildstrawberry [$15], a super tart, super funky specimen underpinned by a persistent bit of strawberry sweetness. I'm fond of the style, but this was definitely not for everyone.

Fried Thai Calamari [$8.00] | Szechuan Dipping Sauce, Lemon, and Scallions
Squid was nicely crisp, yet still supple on the inside, and made sense with the dipping sauce and a squirt of lemon, though the dish veered more toward Chinese than Thai.

Vermont Cheddar Mac [$7.00] | Grafton 2 Year Aged Cheddar and Bacon-Fat Bread Crumbs
Lastly, we had to try the mac and cheese, and it didn't let us down. The dish was properly cheesy, the bread crumbs mixing things up texturally a touch, and the consistency of the pasta was spot on, too. Nicely done.

All in all, a defendable choice for a brew bar. The selection of beers is better than a lot out there, and the food, while not spectacular, gets the job done for the most part. You could certainly do worse, especially given the area. With the likes of Bizarra, Portsmouth, Phlight, and this place, the Whittier scene's looking a bit up.

Joule Restaurant
3506 Stone Way N, Seattle, WA 98103
206.632.5685
www.joulerestaurant.com
Sun 03/02/2014, 08:00p-10:20p

After a brief tour of Portland during the preceding days, I made my way up to Seattle for a quick visit, first stop: Joule. The restaurant is the brainchild of the wife-and-husband team of Rachel Yang and Seif Chirchi, and serves up the duo's unique style of French-Korean cuisine. It was a curious proposition for me, coming from the Korean food capital of the country.

About the Chefs: The driving force behind Joule is Rachel Yang, a Seoul native who came to the US at age 15 as a parachute kid, settling in New York. She ended up studying urban studies and visual arts at Brown, graduating in 2000, and initially planned to pursue a career in urban planning. However, things went in a completely different direction when she enrolled at the Institute of Culinary Education in NYC. Following a year-long course of study there, Yang started cooking at Daniel Boulud's DB Bistro Moderne, then moved to Alain Ducasse at the Essex House (where she met Chirchi), and later to Per Se in 2004. In 2005, she became Executive Chef of Lannie Ahn's short-lived modern Korean eatery D'or Ahn, where she was reintroduced to the cooking of her homeland, an experience that would ultimately lead to Joule.

Seif Chirchi, for his part, was born to a Tunisian father and grew up in Chicago. He attended the University of Illinois at Urbana–Champaign, and during his tenure there, got his first taste of the restaurant biz while working as a server-slash-bartender. However, he was asked to help out in the kitchen one night, and immediately fell in love with cooking. After this, Chirchi went on to work at a few places in the area, then enrolled at the Western Culinary Institute in Portland for his formal education. While in school, he worked on the line at local eatery Jake's Grill, and after graduating in 2001, dabbled in catering for a bit before moving to New York and spending two years at Alain Ducasse. After meeting his future wife there, Chirchi went on to cook at Asiate at the Mandarin Oriental.

The two eventually got engaged in NYC, and were itching to move out to Seattle (one motivating factor: Chirchi's parents were in Portland). In 2006, they were given an opportunity to do just that when Portland-based chef Tom Hurley hired them to open Coupage after meeting Chirchi at a James Beard event. It was the couple's first attempt at doing a Kor-French menu, and the place opened late that year to considerable acclaim. However, they eventually had a falling out with the boss, and left in 2007, taking much of the staff with them. Coupage ended up folding the following year. Yang and Chirchi now had the confidence to open their own place, and did just that in November 2007 with the debut of Joule in the Wallingford neighborhood of Seattle.

The restaurant was a hit from the get go, scoring a three-star review from the Seattle Times and being named one of Seattle Metropolitan's "Best New Restaurants" in 2008. 2008 also saw the duo garner a "Rising Star Chef" semi-finalist nod from James Beard, a feat that was repeated by Yang in 2009. 2010, meanwhile, began with her being nominated by Beard for "Best Chef: Northwest," and the couple even made an appearance on Top Chef America, losing by one point to Jose Garces in "Battle Hawaiian Moi." Given the success of Joule, Yang and Chirchi went on to launch Revel, a Korean street food joint, and its associated bar, Quoin, in December 2010. This new restaurant, too, managed to become a success, really cementing the couple's position in Seattle. The following year, they were once again semi-finalists for James Beard's "Best Chef: Northwest" award, and made the same list in 2012 as well.

In October that year, the two relocated Joule to the new Fremont Collective complex, right next door to Renee Erickson's The Whale Wins. With the location change came a reinvigorated menu, a more focused one that further tightened the Korean influences in the food. The updated cooking was apparently a hit with James Beard, as the organization bestowed semi-finalist status on the two yet another time. This was followed by Joule's placement on Bon Appetit's "Best New Restaurants in America" list in 2013, and a spot on Seattle Magazine's collection of "Best New Restaurants" as well. Finally, we come to 2014, and, you guessed it, in true Susan Lucci fashion: James Beard semi-finalists for what must be the seventh time.

Joule Interior

Joule's interior space was penned by the Seattle-based Heliotrope Architects, and is quite a bit larger than the original, coming in at 60 seats instead of 40. It's also much hipper with its clean cut lines, marble-topped bar and kitchen counter, neat wallpaper, concrete flooring, and requisite combination of open kitchen and communal table.

Joule's menu reads well, and is divided neatly into logical sections, ones you tend to work your way down while deciding which ones to share (yes, this is definitely a sharing-is-caring sort of place). To imbibe, you'll find an only-Washington-and-Oregon wine list, some pretty-interesting-sounding cocktails, and a smattering of decidedly non-Hite beer. Click for larger versions.

1080 (Tom Schaar, March 26, 2012 Tehachapi CA) [$11.00] | Aquaavit, pamplemousse, egg white, grapefruit bitters
We opted for cocktails this evening, the first of which featured the Scandinavian favorite akvavit. I was a big fan of the drink, its sweet spice on the attack, overarching essence of citrus, and hints of anise on the back end all coming together flawlessly.

Sweet Freedom [$10.00] | Blood Orange and Elderflower Liqueurs, Lime, Makoli
The next cocktail also featured a rather unconventional base: makgeolli, a sort of Korean rice wine. It actually worked out pretty well, the sweet 'n' sour notes in the drink pairing smoothly with the ricey undertones here.

Beef tartare, pine nut, spicy cod roe aioli [$10.00]
Our first course was Joule's take on the Korean dish yukhoe, basically a steak tartar. It was a laudable rendition of the classic, with a palpable beefiness to it that was augmented by the strong umami notes present, all while the aioli helped tie everything together. I also appreciated the sweetness imparted by the fruit here, as well as the points of crunchiness provided by the pine nuts.

White stuffed kimchi [$6.00]
Naturally, we had to try the baek kimchi, a white version of the staple that wasn't spicy at all. Instead, it was delightfully crunchy, and displayed a tart, acidic relish and lingering tang, a suitable counterpoint to the other heady flavors at play in the meal.

Crispy sweetbreads sticks, pickle [$10.00]
Up next was the most innocuous way that I'd ever seen to introduce someone to sweetbreads. They really were like fish sticks in a way, but with an earthier, more complex savor and a slightly creamier consistency--really tasty in a straightforward sort of manner, and great with the included pickles.

Tatsoi, warm Chinese sausage vinaigrette, smoked tea egg [$11.00]
A salad of tatsoi was soft and silky on the palate, the bitterness of the vegetable complemented by the savory weight of Chinese sausage, all while the lushness of the egg helped bring it all together.

Lady Mason [$12.00] | Old Tom Gin, Dolin Blanc, Punt e Mes, Green Chartreuse
Time for more cocktails. This one was easily the stiffest of the night, with its classically bittersweet, boozy character brightened by just the right amount of citrus.

Spicy rice cake, chorizo, pickled mustard green [$14.00]
My favorite course was the tteokbokki, which managed to be the best version of the dish I've had. I loved how the soft, pliant consistency of the rice cake was contrasted by their crispy crusts, and the heat imparted by the chorizo was spot on, not overwhelming, but just enough. Finishing things off was the mustard, which provided a hit of astringency that kept the course from going too heavy.

Black rice risotto, salted cod, fennel [$14.00]
I'm a sucker for risotto, and Joule's was a winner with its hearty pieces of cod and overarching brine that really permeated the rice. The fennel, meanwhile, gave up a counterbalancing crunch and piquancy, and I was much appreciative of the cilantro as well. Yum.

R. Kipling [$10.00] | Gin, Tamarind, Darjeeling, Lime, Tonic
Joule's Rudyard Kipling-monikered cocktail was enjoyable as well, bringing forth the floral qualities of the tea in concert with the sweet spice of tamarind, the gin and lime serving as the balancing force in the drink.

Roasted cauliflower, bonito, smoky yogurt [$10.00]
Cauliflower was next, the mild taste of the vegetable augmented by the umami-laden flavors of katsuobushi while the yogurt imparted a creamy, yet smoky slant to the dish. I would've liked the cauliflower a bit crisper, though.

'that' short rib steak, kalbi, grilled kimchi, 8oz, WA

"that" short rib steak, kalbi, grilled kimchi, 8oz, WA [$19.00]
We had to give Joule's take on galbi a go, naturally. It really did recall the traditional dish, with the meat's rich, bovine flavors enhanced with just the right amount of sweetness and a great bit of char, the gochuchang and kimchi imparting a lovely tinge of spice to the dish.

35 Stone Buck [$9.00] | Bourbon, Asian pear, Cinnamon, Honey, Peychauds bitters, RGB
Rachel's Ginger Beer provided a refreshingly gingery base to this drink that did a great job setting the stage for the bittersweet and spicy flavors present. Pretty refreshing.

Octopus, bok choy, hot bacon vinaigrette [$17.00]
A surprisingly large serving of octopus came out tender and smoky, with a nice amount of char, its comparatively mild flavors underpinned by spicy, bacon-y notes while the bok choy gave up a moderating crispness and lightness.

Mackerel, green curry cilantro chimichurri, black currant [$16.00]
Rounding out the savories was the mackerel, a briny, succulent, oily presentation of the fish tempered in potency by the incorporation of chimichurri. Pickles were much appreciated here too, providing crunch and burst of acidity to things.

Jalisco Campfire [$10.00] | Tequila, Lapsang Souchong, Agave, Thai Chili, Lime
Our final cocktail melded smokiness from the tequila and tea with the sweet-n-sour interplay of agave and lime, the Thai chile imparting a growing bit of heat to the drink. Surprisingly intense.

As for Joule's dessert menu, it probably slants a bit less overtly Korean, unsurprisingly, but still fits the bill. Click for a larger version.

Brown butter hazelnut cake, sweet red bean, fenugreek cream [$8.00]
The hazelnut cake was a winner, giving off a subtle, elegant sweetness typical of Asian cakes, while the fenugreek furnished an herbaceousness that offered up a touch of the unexpected.

Joule box, pearl tapioca, ruby grapefruit brulee, coconut [$7.00]
Joule's signature dessert used to come in a box I'm told, hence the name, but is now served in bowl form. In any case, the dish worked, commingling the soft sweetness of tapioca with the essence of coconut, the grapefruit adding a burst of citrus-y acidity to round things out.

You can call the food at Joule "fusion," but it doesn't convey any of the negative connotations that come along with the moniker. It's not Korean food definitely, and not quite "New American" either, but a unique amalgam of the Chefs' various influences that come together in modern, brilliantly-integrated fashion; I don't think I've eaten anything quite like it before. And interestingly, I'm not sure if something like this could work down here in Los Angeles; I think our large Korean population and resultant focus on "authenticity" might preclude such a thing.

Acabar Restaurant
1510 N Stanley Ave, Hollywood, CA 90046
323.876.1400
www.acabar-la.com
Thu 03/13/2014, 08:15p-11:35p

Acabar Exterior

I've been wanting to try out Acabar for a while now (it opened last July), and finally made it out recently. The restaurant replaces Dar Maghreb, the famed Hollywood bastion of Moroccan cuisine that closed in September 2012 after almost 40 years in business. The reason for the closure was a change in ownership, and that new ownership is led by none other than big-time director Roland Emmerich. Not being much of a restaurateur himself, he's partnered up here with Jerry Murray as well as the Little Door trio of Sue Choi and brothers Frederic and Nicolas Meschin.

Headlining is "Taste Maker" Octavio Becerra, the Palate and Patina veteran whom we last saw at Circa in Manhattan Beach (interestingly, the Chef used to frequent Dar Maghreb during his high school years). As for the food, it's advertised as "global local," paying homage to the French-influenced cuisines situated along the spice trails that ran through Northern Africa, the Mediterranean, the Middle East, Indochina, and South East Asia. Becerra's joined in the kitchen by Chef de Cuisine Kevin Luzande (Buddha's Belly, Playa, Rivera), who runs the show here day-to-day, as well as Sous Chefs Taylor Sweeney (also from Playa and Rivera) and Oscar Torres (Patina, Ortolan, Playa).

Acabar Interior

The 3,900sqft Dar Maghreb space already had some pretty over-the-top architecture going on, so designer Keith Greco (the Cliff's Edge partner who also penned Little Door) tried to preserve as much of the vibe as he could. The tile work on the floors and walls, lavish columns, ornate coffered ceilings, and gold doors out front are all original. On the other hand, walls have been torn down. They've added mirrors, a central fire pit, chandeliers, and a zinc-topped bar that spans the room, connecting the lounge with a 60-seater dining room. There's even a raw bar tucked into a corner near the foyer (with its own tasting menu option). Overall, it's a space that just begs to be called "sexy."

As for Acabar's menu, it's hard to pin it down to a specific cuisine, as the restaurant's concept allows the Chef to play it loose. Things tend to lean toward a Cal-French-inflected Middle Eastern-Mediterranean with some Asian influences I'd say, and it's small plates, natch, with a few communal dishes for good measure. Meanwhile, the bar program is the work of Julian Cox and Josh Goldman's Soigné Group. It's a deliberately historical selection of cocktails, one ostensibly inspired by Heston Blumenthal's London eatery Dinner. Meanwhile, if you'd prefer wine, there's a pretty nice list put together by longstanding sommelier Emmanuel Faure. Click for larger versions.

Sherry Cobbler [$12.00] | Dry Amontillado Sherry, Seasonal Fruits
Given the pedigree of Josh and Julian's bar program, we had to go hard on the cocktails, starting with the restaurant's take on the cobbler. It was lovely, with some light, refreshingly fruity notes leading toward the dry, deliciously oxidative quality of the sherry toward the end.

El Diablo [$12.00] | Blanco Tequila, Ginger, Lime, Cassis, Soda Water
Moving on into the Tiki era now, we had here Trader Vic's devil of a cocktail. I really appreciated the spicy ginger notes in this one, balanced by sugary cassis, the tequila providing an undercurrent of vegetal booziness to this fun libation.

Les Olives Maison [$8.00] | assorted olives / preserved tangerine / herbs
Olives seemed like a fitting start to the meal, their zesty, piquant flavors amplified by the application of tart citrus, the garlic chips adding a countervailing crunch and savoriness to the mix.

Caramelized Cauliflower Duo [$13.00] | pickled peppers / currants / dill / za'atar
Cauliflower was enjoyable, arriving to the table nicely crunchy, the combination of currant and pickles adding a layer of sweet-n-sour atop the comparatively mild vegetable, all while the zaatar imparted a deep, complex, earthy weight to the dish that help tie everything together.

Creole

Creole [$12.00] | Bourbon, Sweet Vermouth, Benedictine, CioCiaro
Here, bourbon and vermouth combined in near classic Manhattan-esque fashion, but the use of Bénédictine and CioCiaro made for an herbal-y bittersweet character, lightened up by a whisper of citrus.

Philadelphia Fish House Punch [$10.00] | Pierre Ferrand 1840 Cognac, Appleton 12 Yr. Rum, Lemon Sorbet, Peach Brandy, Nutmeg
Punches are available in large bowls, but we went with single servings in order to try more of the cocktails. This Fish House concoction hid its booze surprisingly well, and showed off an almost candied-like sweetness that some of us found reminiscent of SweeTarts.

Foraged Mushroom Dumplings [$14.00] | mushrooms / asian pumpkin / ginger-kombu broth
The dumplings were superb, and a table favorite. I loved their deep, hearty savor, brightened up by the various herbs here, while the squash imparted just a touch of sweetness to the mix. The best part? That ginger-kombu broth, which I eagerly supped up at the end.

TI Punch [$12.00] | Rhum Agricole, Cane Syrup, Lime
Next to drink was a version of Ti'Punch, popular in Martinique and surrounding states. I found it surprisingly boozy, the potency of the rum only slightly tempered by the combo of cane and citrus. You could definitely feel this one going down.

Porn Bread [$12.00] | yam / aged cheddar / bacon / almond-honey butter
Given its provocative name, this was something that we felt compelled to order. It ostensibly took 25 minutes to prepare, and came out appropriately phallic, a play on cornbread that was actually pretty tasty with its contrasting sweet and salty notes, taken up a notch by the excellent almond-honey butter.

Zombie

Zombie [$14.00] | Jamaican Rum, Puerto Rican Rum, Lemon-Hart 151, Lime, Don's Mix, Falernum
The drink that's getting the most attention at Acabar is the Zombie, a quintessential tiki invention first seen at Don the Beachcomber. It's the only cocktail I've had that's come out on fire, and despite the theatrics, it was rather delicious, its amalgam of sweet, spicy, and sour flavors really moderating the considerable amount of alcohol present. I could see this being dangerous, hence the two serving limit.

Tom Collins [$12.00] | Old Tom Gin, Lemon, Soda Water
Acabar's Tom Collins, on the other hand, was a much lighter, refreshing sort of cocktail, the base of Old Tom working seamlessly with the tart lemon to make for an eminently quaffable drink.

Seared Morro Bay Squid [$13.00] | lebanese pesto / smashed eggplant / grilled meyer lemon / skhug sauce
Squid had a nice bite to it, and was properly briny, melding with the medley of Mediterranean flavors from the eggplant, pesto, and spicy zhug, the Meyer lemon adding layers of enveloping sourness to the dish.

Crispy Shrimp Toast [$13.00] | rock shrimp / s.s.u quail egg / thai basil / fish sauce
Acabar's shrimp toast was crowned our favorite item of the night, and was the only dish that we ordered another round of. The interplay between the shrimp and the basil was spot on, and went perfectly with the savory crunch of the toast. At the same time, the fish sauce was absolutely key as well, providing an undercurrent of funky, tangy flavors that really brought it all together.

Spanish Can 'O' Sardines [$14.00] | shaved fennel / house-churned butter / pain rustique
I didn't expect much from this seemingly simple can 'o' sardines, but the course really delivered. What I did was take the bread, spread it with butter, then layer salt, lime, sardine, and greens on top of it. The result was a beautiful balance of fishy and astringent flavors, perked up by pinpoints of salt and wonderful over the base of toast. This is one to get.

Cuban No. 2 [$12.00] | Cognac, Apricot Liqueur, Lemon
For our next cocktail, we had here a Cuban that I rather enjoyed. I found it viscous and sticky in body, with a delectably fruity apricot quality to it that went up nicely against the lemon.

Martha Washington's Rum Punch [$10.00] | Batavia Arrack, English Harbor 5 yr. Rum, Lime Sorbet, Lemon Sorbet, Spiced Syrup, Cinnamon & Nutmeg
I was digging the presentation of this next punch, which we were told was based on a recipe from one of the first First Lady's old journals. Think light, and almost tea-like, with sweet spices and notes of citrus up front, all over a backdrop of booze. I could totally picture Martha sipping this at Mount Vernon back in the day.

Wild Mackerel [$15.00] | fennel fondue / mustard greens / aleppo-tangerine coulis
Mackerel was strongly flavored, the power of the oily fish cut by the mustard as well as the fennel fondue, which lent an overarching "dill-y" flavor to the entire dish.

Steamed Buns [$15.00] | braised lamb / merguez / cumin carrots / mint salad / tamarind yogurt
Steamed buns at restaurants these days are more likely than not going to be of the ubiquitous David Chang variety, so it was great to see this Middle Eastern-inspired take, the lamb working swimmingly alongside the mint and cooling yogurt.

Crispy Pork Belly Cubes [$16.00] | sticky rice noodles / lotus root / celery
The pork belly was on point, coming out wonderfully crisp, a mix of lean and fat that blended seamlessly with the spicy, Asian-y sauce here, all while the lotus root and celery provided a countering crunch to things. Interestingly, one of my dining companions found this oddly reminiscent of Korean tteokbokki thanks to the texture on those rice cakes. A standout for me.

Mezcal Me Maybe [$12.00] | Mezcal, Pamplemousse, Suze, Fino Sherry
At this point, we tried our first original cocktail of the evening, an apparent ode to Carly Rae Jepsen crafted by Acabar's bar program director Aaron Stepka. It was a thick, viscous drink, a smart presentation of mezcal that balanced the smokiness of the spirit with plenty of citrus and an intriguing bittersweetness from the sherry and Suze.

Chartreuse Swizzle [$12.00] | Green Chartreuse, Pineapple, Lime, Falernum
Also from recent times was this 2003 creation by noted San Francisco barman Marcovaldo "Marco" Dionysos. It's a modern classic of sorts, with its blast of tropical sweetness and nutmeg space cut by the tartness of pineapple and lime, the Chartreuse providing a pungent base to the drink.

Charred Chicken Wings [$13.00] | green chick peas / quinoa falafel / charred dates / apples / walnut tahini
Chicken wings were tender and succulent, showing off a nice depth of flavor and char, all while the falafel gave up a fantastic bit of crunch. I also appreciated the veggies here as well, which helped impart just enough levity to things.

Crispy Kibbeh [$12.00] | cracked wheat fritters / pine nuts / baba ghanoush
And speaking of crunch, these kibbeh had it in spades. The bulghur croquettes conveyed a certain nutty quality to them, and worked in concert with the tangy greens while the smoky baba ghanoush served to integrate the various flavors.

Poulet Rôti [$48.00] | whole roasted chicken / les épinards / ail doux / jus naturel
Acabar turns out a good roast chicken, a hearty, tender, juicy presentation of the bird that was positively imbued with an herby, garlicky flair. The poulet comes with a side of spinach, which veers delightfully garlicky and salty and acerbic, a fitting complement to the chicken.

Kanpachi Crudo [$14.00] | amber jack fish / mango / blood orange / fresno chilli
Amberjack was clean and crisp, though I wish that the fish could've stood out just a bit more against its vibrantly sweet and sour accoutrements.

Skewered Spicy Prawns [$14.00] | harissa / dates / labneh yogurt / pistachio
I read somewhere that owner Roland Emmerich is particularly partial to these prawns. However, they were a touch over for me, and also on the sweet side, though the smoky char and heat from the harissa did help reel things in. Also much appreciated: the cool, creamy labneh and zesty salad up top.

Whole Crispy Sea Bass [$46.00] | choy sum / tendrils / peanuts / sichuan peppercorn sauce
Finally, the evening's pièce de résistance brought us a delightful whole sea bass. The fish itself came meaty and moist, with a satisfyingly crispy skin, and displayed a restrained sort of salinity that worked beautifully against the spice of the Sichuan pepper. I was a big fan of how the brightness of the choy sum and pea tendrils evened out the plate as well, and the nutty crunch of the peanuts was much appreciated, too. Pretty impressive.

Time for the sweet stuff, and not surprisingly, Acabar's dessert menu takes inspiration from the same place as the savories. Click for a larger version.

Apple Kelebek [$9.00] | filo dough / pistachio / saba / labneh
First up was an apple-stuffed phyllo pastry, a wondrously flaky sort of thing that masterfully incorporated the sweetness of apple with the honeyed character of labneh. Quite nice.

Roasted Pear Duo Tartlette [$9.00] | cinnamon-tahini-date ice cream
Pear was presented in rustic fashion here, its softly sweet flavors meshing well with its pastry base. The best part, though, was clearly that ice cream, a marvelous amalgamation of sweet, spicy, and nutty flavors that really perked up the tartlette--gimme a whole pint of the stuff please.

Macaron Ice Cream Sandwich [$9.00] | neveux artisan creamery
We concluded with an ice cream sandwich featuring Neveux's espresso varietal stacked between layers of fruity, moist macaron.

Despite the sexy environs and even sexier waitstaff, the kitchen largely delivered here under the leadership of Kevin Luzande. The exact style of the cooking is a bit hard to define, but it seemed to somehow flow together, tied together by that common underpinning of French influence. Cocktails were, of course, indubitably worthwhile, and the service was surprisingly affable and efficient as well. Acabar's a welcomed addition to the oft precarious Hollywood dining landscape; there's enough of a "scene" going on, but the cuisine doesn't seem to suffer because of it. Lo and behold, the old Dar Maghreb has finally found food befitting its glamour.

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