Le Comptoir (Los Angeles, CA)

March 30, 2015, 8:50 pm

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Le Comptoir at Hotel Normandie
3606 W 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
562.537.5990
www.lecomptoirla.com
Sat 02/28/2015, 08:50p-11:00p



When we last caught up with Gary Menes back in August 2012, he was busy running his Le Comptoir pop-up at Tiara Cafe, serving up his trademark veggie-focused menus with Wes Avila at Fred Eric's now-defunct all-day cafe. The Chef ended up vacating the spot in August that year, replaced by Starry KitchenNights. However, he quickly found a new location at Santos Uy's Mignon wine bar in September, and later took up residence inside the Wine Vault in Glendale, which, coincidentally, was situated in the same building that used to house his old stomping ground, Palate Food + Wine. Menes would stay there until October 2013, when it was announced that a permanent version of Le Comptoir would inhabit Koreatown's Hotel Normandie. Plans initially called for a spring 2014 debut, but the restaurant experienced delay upon delay before finally opening at the end of December.


The restaurant occupies the home of the old Dragon Lady dive bar, and true to its name, comprises 11 counter seats surrounding the kitchen, and not much else.


Le Comptoir's menu is of course vegetable-centric, a hyper-seasonal carte featuring produce largely sourced from Gladys Ave Urban Farm in Long Beach, which Menes tends to daily (he took it over from oceanographer Charles Moore in early 2014). Seatings occur at 6:00pm and 8:30pm, with six courses priced at $69 (be careful with those supplements, though), plus $42 for wine pairing. Corkage, meanwhile, is a pricey $40 a bottle. Click for a larger version.


Our amuse comprised crispy Carolina Gold rice with blistered shishito, lemon confit, carrot greens, and a sherry vinaigrette. I deemed it a very promising start to the meal, with the delightful crunch and char of the rice making for a perfect counter to the heat of the pepper, the lemon and greens adding that requisite amount of zip to the mix.



1: japanese mountain yam velouté, greek yogurt, fried bread crumbs
valfaccenda 2012, piedmonte, italy, arneis
A potage of mountain yam made for a hearty and heartwarming first course. The velouté was sweet, but not overly so, and the crux for me was how well the cool, lactic tang of the labneh worked in tempering the weight of the root vegetable. Also crucial were the bread crumbs, which imparted a wonderfully crunchy savoriness to things. Very good.


Above, we see the assembly line-style plating necessary for our next course, which must've encompassed 20+ components.


2a: "vegetable and fruit" plate. potato, corn, cauliflower, beets, celery root, celtuce, calamantsi, pickled onion, carrot, tangerine, zucchini, peas, grape, radish, potato and more..
domaine les cantates, vin de savoie, france, chignin bergeron 2012, roussanne
And here we have what could be viewed as Menes' take on the iconic gargouillou. Given the myriad of produce on the plate, there was of course a lot going on, but it all came together, a mélange of crunchy and soft, of sweet, tart, and bitter, all tied together by an overarching theme and enveloping savor.


2b: foie gras [$25 supplement]
domaine les cantates, vin de savoie, france, chignin bergeron 2012, roussanne
The foie gras was a prime example of such, the liver's signature potency conveyed with considerable finesse, its earthiness perfectly complemented by the sweet-tart nature of the reconstituted cherries and pineapple reduction. Delicious alone, and just as good when taken over a base of fluffy housemade sourdough, which is produced using a starter aged 16 to 20 years, depending on whom you ask.


3a: oeuf en cocotte, beurre noisette, baby lettuce, brown butter, lemon, chives
trigone blanc 2011, le soula, france, macabeu, malvoisie roussillon, grenache blanc
An egg casserole satisfied in a straightforward manner, the rich, runny yolk amplified by brown butter, yet simultaneously well-foiled by the zesty duet of lemon and chives. Again, we were served some homemade sourdough as an accompaniment, as well as some bitter greens, which I found particularly apropos.


For our next course, the Chef spoons some of that "bisque" atop our crab.


3b: santa barbara rock crab, "lobster bisque", cauliflower leaves, lime [$15 supplement]
trigone blanc 2011, le soula, france, macabeu, malvoisie roussillon, grenache blanc
Rock crab was on point, all rich and briny and buttery, taken up a notch by that lobster froth while the cauliflower greens added a fantastic touch of countering astringency to the fold. Yum.


4a: tranche of roasted butternut squash, wheat berries, preserved blueberries, pumpkin seeds
germano angelo 2009, langhe, piedmont, nebbiolo
Regular readers will know that I've no love lost for butternut squash, but tonight it managed to be one of the highlights of the meal. In fact, it was possibly the strongest presentation of the ingredient I've had. The key was that char, which did a wonderful job providing savoriness and astringency to balance out the inherent sweetness of the squash. Also vital was the texture on those wheatberries, as well as the nutty crunch of pepitas. Great bitterness on those greens, too.


4b: tagliolini, winter black truffles [$30 supplement]
germano angelo 2009, langhe, piedmont, nebbiolo
Tagliolini arrived well textured--tender but still with some bite--and lightly dressed, an uncomplicated stage on which to showcase the heady musk of black truffle.


Our final savory courses being plated with some big-ass tweezers. Note creepy dude in the window.


5a: "fricassé" broccoli florets, apple, almonds, sweet onion, stone ground polenta, jus d'onion
mas bruguiere l'arbouse 2012, pic saint loup, france, syrah, grenache
Though a traditional fricassee calls for meat, Menes' vegetarian take on the classic was surprisingly satisfying, with sweet, bitter flavors underpinned by a strong backbone of umami-tinged goodness. I particularly appreciated the incorporation of almonds here.


5b: dry aged prime beef, rouge de hiver, pear, parsley vinaigrette [$16 supplement]
mas bruguiere l'arbouse 2012, pic saint loup, france, syrah, grenache
Beef was expectedly deep in flavor, really showing off the earthiness that you often find in dry-aged meat. I quite enjoyed it alone, but the best thing here was that parsley vinaigrette, which had all the brightness and acidity that you'd get from a chimichurri. It was a perfect accoutrement to the beef, and the lettuce was no slouch, either. My only quibble? The cut could've stood to be a touch more tender.


6a: sourdough donut, sour cream, meyer lemon curd, orange marmalade
Dessert brought out a singular doughnut hole of sorts, one that was light, airy, crisp, and slightly tangy, accompanied simply by a tangy cream and tart curd.


6b: chef's selection of cheeses [$15 supplement]
The cheese course, meanwhile, resulted in a threesome of fromage: a pungent, yet refined Stilton; the sharp, crumbly, richly-flavored Hook's 10-Year Cheddar; and Cowgirl Creamery's Mt Tam, a soft, creamy, mushroom-y triple-cream.


The restaurant is pretty fastidious about its coffee service, and tonight we ordered their Kenyan variety, at $12 a pop (Peruvian and decaf Ethiopian varieties were also on offer). Brewed using the SoftBrew process, which ostensibly combines both pour-over and French press qualities, the coffee was very light in terms of roast, with a fruity flavor profile and a somewhat bracing acidity.


Le Comptoir's staff of five (left to right): apprentice Alex Guzman (from Bar Nine coffee shop in Culver City, Sqirl and Single Origin previously), apprentice Joshua Lu (a senior in biochem at UCLA), Chef Cuisinier Gary Menes, commis Randy Moles (RivaBella, Mezze, Riva, Angelini Osteria), commis Jason Koh (helps run Eggslut and worked with Menes at the Glendale outpost of LC).

Having had his food at a previous incarnation of Le Comptoir, I have to say that I thoroughly enjoyed seeing how the Chef's cuisine has evolved in the intervening years. Menes' cooking is even more focused than before, displaying flavor profiles that are even more robust, more confident, more creative. It's a pretty cool blend of the classic and the contemporary, all taking place in an intimate, interactive setting that I wish more chefs would emulate.

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Sea Snail Jjol Myun [$10.99] | Jjol Jjol Myun with Sea Snail
Kimchi Fried Rice [$8.99] | Fried Rice with Kimchi
Afterward, I wandered over to the nearby School Food, which, ostensibly, serves the type of food Korean children might consume after school. And indeed, they turned out very serviceable renditions of fiery gochujang-laced jjolmyeon and kimchi bokkeumbap. I wasn't particularly hungry, but could eat a little, taking the rest home.


Combination Roll [$25.99] | Per 3 People/9Rolls: Small Anchovy, Stir Fried Kimchi, Garlic Bacon, Spicy Anchovy, Black Squid Ink, Smelt Eggs, Teriyaki Beef
What I was most looking forward to, though, were the gimbap here, which come in an impressive-looking spread with no less than nine varieties: Stir Fried Kimchi, Small Anchovy, Tuna, Black Squid Ink, Smelt Eggs, Spam, Garlic Bacon, Teriyaki Beef, Spicy Anchovy. These made for some pretty satisfying leftovers the next day.





The real reason for my visit to School Food, though, was to sample some Ladurée macarons, which were flown over from New York just the day prior. 11 flavors were sampled:

• Praline Sésame / Praline Sesame - Pleasantly nutty and sweet.
• Café / Coffee - A very focused, true-to-life coffee flavor.
• Framboise / Raspberry - Super jammy, sweet, and floral.
• Citron / Lemon - Sharply lemony, but with a sugary backbone to even it out.
• Chocolat / Chocolate - Very rich and forceful, probably the heftiest of the bunch.
• Cassis Violette / Blackcurrant & Violet - Aromatic and jammy, not unlike grape soda.
• Fleur d'Oranger / Orange Blossom - Intensely perfume-y, damn.
• Rhum Vanille / Rum Vanilla - Boozy and bittersweet.
• Caramel à la Fleur de Sel / Caramel with Salted Butter - Sugary with a delightful hit of salt on the finish.
• Guimauve Chocolat Coco / Chocolate Coconut Guimauve - Great coconut and chocolate flavors with a fluffy marshmallow-y texture in the middle.
• Pétale de Rose / Rose Petal - Floral and rose-y, with an astringent quality to it.

Overall, a very strong showing from the legendary pâtissier--the macarons all came out well-textured and robustly-flavored--though I'm not sure if they're really head and shoulders above everything else out there, local favorite 'Lette for example. I do need to try me some Pierre Hermé...

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Stir Market (Los Angeles, CA)

April 3, 2015, 7:50 pm

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Stir Market
7475 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.879.8283
www.stirmarket.com
Wed 03/04/2015, 07:50p-11:05p





I guess food halls are a thing now, and one of the tiniest examples is no doubt the new Stir Market, which debuted last November. The place is billed as a Californian take on the classic European gastronomic tradition, and is an all-day affair featuring a restaurant, bakery, marketplace, rotisserie, wine/beer bar, espresso bar, and probably some other things that I overlooked. Stir is the work of real estate investment professional and Francophile Mimi Mok, designer Bryan Libit, Executive Chef Christopher Barnett (Four Seasons BH, Hotel Bel-Air, Primitivo, Le Relais d'Auteuil in Paris), as well as the most recognizable of the quartet: Jet Tila.

To catch you up, when we last saw Tila in May 2012, he was operating The Charleston in Santa Monica (now Tacoteca). Later that year, he partnered with foodservice contractor Compass Group to develop the fast-casual concept Modern Asian Kitchen, created the world's largest seafood stew, and also launched KLAA's So Cal Restaurant Show. At the start of 2013, Tila made an appearance as a judge on Chopped (alongside Scott Conant and Amanda Freitag), and in April, was appointed the first Culinary Ambassador of Thai Cuisine by LA's Royal Thai Consulate General. May 2013 saw him compete in Cochon 555 as well as the debut of Kuma Snow Cream in Las Vegas, his Taiwanese xue hua bing concept.

That August, Tila debuted as a judge on Food Network's Cutthroat Kitchen, and in September, hosted LA's first Thai Food Festival at Paramount Studios, joined by Susan Feniger, Evan Kleiman, David LeFevre, Andy Ricker, Kris Yenbamroong, and Sang Yoon. 2014, meanwhile, began with another go at Cochon 555 (Ray Garcia won again), and in May, he was brought on board as a partner at Dallas' Pakpao Thai restaurant. He appeared on NBC's Food Fighters that July, while October had him participating in Vegas' Life Is Beautiful festival. Finally, if you want to catch Tila in person these days, you can always sign up for one of his Flavors of Thai Town food tours.


Stir occupies the former digs of Buddha's Belly (where Kevin Luzande worked prior to Acabar), a roughly 4,000 square-foot space redesigned to European-esque spec by Libit. Inside, you'll find the various stations, as well as seating for about 50 guests (with another 30 or so on the patio).


Above, we see Stir's dinner menu, which ostensibly incorporates a number of items found in the market. Booze-wise, you get wines on tap, a handful more in bottles, as well as eight beers on draft. Click for larger versions.


Mok was in the house tonight, and provided us tastes of the wines on tap to start things off. On the left was the chardonnay, brewer-clifton, santa rita hills, ca 2013, a crisp, refreshing Chard with juicy fruit and lemon on the nose and a palate that went slightly grassy, with a subtle spice and minerality to it. That was followed by the rosé, acrobat, rose of pinot noir, oregon 2013, which I enjoyed as well. Think delectable aromas of floral strawberry, and taste-wise, we had more light fruit joined by a bright acidity--a fun wine.


duck liver pâté [$10.95] | cornichons, maldon salt, grilled bread
Naturally, we had to order the pâté, and Stir's example was spot on, a smooth, spreadable preparation that offered up the rich, earthy flavor of the liver in spades, offset by salty hits of Maldon.


We were able to BYOB tonight, and thus got things going with the 2014 Avery Rufus Corvus, a blend of three sour ales: 85% aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels, 9% aged in Chardonnay barrels, and 6% aged in Zinfandel barrels, all for up to two years. It was superb, smelling of funky dark fruit intermingled with a savory, almost vegetal tinge, while it tasted of tart roast and malt, along with woody nuances and a distinct, piercing acidity.


brussels sprouts with smoked bacon [$5.00] | split roasted brussels, thick cut diced bacon
I had to try the Brussels, of course, and Stir's were on point: substantially-textured, pleasantly bitter, and accented by a great char, with the bacon adding a complementary saltiness to the fray.


charred whole prawns [$14.95] | head on, garlic, lemon, chili
Prawns made for an impressive-looking plate, coming out well-charred, with their sweet salinity smartly played off of the zestiness of lemon and chili.


The 2012 Burnside Brewing White Out was a barleywine aged for a year in Napa Valley Port barrels that were previously used to age Big Bottom whiskey, then blended with a fresh version of the base beer. I really liked this one a lot more than I thought I would, with the beer's malt character and bitterness beautifully balanced by a permeating, vinous quality from the Port aging.


roasted cauliflower and autumn squash [$5.00] | heirloom cauliflower, farm market squash
Cauliflower was delish, arriving delightfully crunchy and with a mouth-watering spice and savor. Note that the kitchen ran out of squash, so the dish was presented without the ingredient, which I didn't mind at all (it prolly would've made things too sweet).


crispy pig tails [$9.95] | fennel pollen, lemon zest, herb salad, jus
Pork tails were delightfully crisp and teeming with boatloads of porcine goodness, the greenery providing a crucial bit of balance to the course. The tails were, however, fattier than I'd prefer.


Next up was probably our heftiest beer of the night, the 2012 De Struise Black Damnation II - Mocha Bomb, a blend of 50% Black Albert stout with Columbian coffee beans, 25% De Molen's Hel & Verdoemenis stout, and 25% De Struise's own Cuvée Delphine barrel-aged stout. I loved the spicy, dark fruit-laced nose here, though flavor-wise, I didn't get much coffee, instead tasting sweet booze commingled with roasty malt and surprising smokiness.


eastside brown rice bowl [$12.95] | provençal chicken, dandelion greens, mushrooms, edamame
This was likely the healthiest thing we had tonight, but didn't let us down too much in terms of enjoyment, with the savoriness of the chicken and mushrooms countered by the bright, zesty, crunchy qualities of the veggies here.


At this point, we were brought two further glasses to taste. The carbonic sangiovese, stolpman, los olivos, ca 2013 was a fun one, an utterly gluggable wine loaded with notes of light, sweet fruit and a palpable effervescence. The syrah/grenache, beckman cuvée le bec, santa ynez, ca, on the other hand, was definitely weightier. Aromas included bountiful dark berry fruit and spice, and on the palate, I got some pleasant tannins, along with more jammy fruit and warming spice.


the fairfax veg [$12.95] | quinoa chickpea croquette, edamame hummus, feta
Stir's vegetarian flatbread was surprisingly satisfying, with the crisp, nutty falafels presented with the brightness of the edamame-enhanced hummus while the feta added a good heft to the dish.


rotisserie chicken pappardelle [$16.95] | lemon, chicken jus, parmigiano reggiano, italian parsley
Chicken came out savory and tender, amped up by the parsley and grounded by the wide strips of pappardelle. Lemon, meanwhile, contributed an overarching tanginess to the course, but I wanted less of it.


The 2014 Modern Times City of the Dead was a beer that I'd been curious about for a while now, mainly due to the fact that it incorporated barrel-aged coffee beans (so the beer itself isn't barrel-aged). I found this quite complex and well-balanced, with the rich, roasty, woody qualities of the coffee gorgeously integrated with the inherently malty, chocolate-y flavors of the base stout.


lamb meatballs [$11.95] | feta, grilled baguette, san marzano tomato sauce
I always like to order the meatballs, and Stir's were a prime example of such. Texture-wise, they were springy, yet supple, and I appreciated how their immensely gratifying, spicy, lamb-y flavors here were countered by the tartness of the tomato sauce.


stirmarket porchetta [$19.95] | crispy skin, fennel, rosemary, garlic, lavender, lemon zest
Porchetta was super herby, with the aromatic combo of rosemary-lavender-fennel key in evening out the fatty, full-flavored pork. There were some wonderfully crispy bits of skin here, and the root veggies certainly made sense, too. For our accompanying sauce, we chose the salsa verde (green herbs with lemon and olive oil), which was pretty much the perfect accoutrement to the meat with its bright, offsetting zippiness.


I then opened a bottle of the 2015 Beachwood Rye Like an Eagle, which was just released at the brewery hours earlier. A rye brown ale aged in rye whiskey barrels for a year, the beer was much to my liking, with its impressions of chocolate, malt, brown sugar, and dark fruit beautifully overarched by the spiciness of the rye barrel.


artisan sausage plank [$11.95] | artisan sausage, savory mustard, grilled flatbread
Sausage was tasty, with a great savoriness to it that was nicely set off by the heavy charring present. However, I really wanted it moister, juicier, and with a snappier casing as well. Excellent mustard, meanwhile.


stirmarket burger [$11.95 + $3.00] | blend of grassfed short rib, brisket and chuck, butter lettuce, beefsteak tomato, horseradish cheddar, onion jam, yogurt aioli / with rosemary fries
We ended our savories with the burger, which showed off the deep, earthy flavors of the beef, taken up a notch by the onion jam and cheese while the veggies added the requisite levity to the course. And the fries? Herby, crisp, and pretty much perfect.


The 2012 Russian River Beatification is heavily hyped, but the beer largely lived up to its reputation. A spontaneously fermented sour ale aged in oak barrels, this one displayed glorious notes of tartness and funk, interleaved with sharp hits of citrus, the whole thing drinking acidic, crisp, and dry. Unapologetically puckering, but multifaceted.


We were quite full by this point, but dessert was still a must. Click for larger versions.


chocolate frangipane tart [$7.95] | dark chocolate, almond frangipane with maple crème fraîche
A frangipane tart was crisp yet crumbly, with nutty and sweet flavors over a base of rich chocolate, the crème fraîche up top adding a much-needed lightness to things.


Our final beer brought out the Hoarders-exclusive 2014 The Bruery Blue Bbls, an amalgam of bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout, bourbon barrel-aged sour stout, and blueberries. This was very neat, and very tasty, with the malt and roast characteristics of the stout playing gorgeously with the tart, acidic, juicy nature of the fruit, the whole thing finishing long and lingering with loads of blueberry pie.


croissant bread pudding [$7.95] | croissant and rustic bread, golden raisin, dark rum glaze, small batch vanilla ice cream
Last up was one of the better bread puddings I've had in recent times. This one came out hot and substantial, with its in-your-face caramel, dark fruit, and rum flavors moderated by the ice cream on top.

Stir looks to be a welcomed addition to the neighborhood. I can't speak too much about the market portion of the place, but it's a legitimate option to grab some straightforward eats, at least for dinner. Given how seemingly random he's been over the past several years, I'll be curious to see where Tila pops up next.

Del Rey Kitchen (Los Angeles, CA)

April 6, 2015, 6:00 pm

≫ Next: Cadet (Santa Monica, CA)

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Del Rey Kitchen
12740 Culver Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90066
310.822.7788
www.delreykitchen.com
Sun 03/08/2015, 06:00p-08:40p





It's tough to find a BYOB-friendly place with good food, on the Westside, open Sundays. A last minute request for such a joint brought me to Del Rey Kitchen, a restaurant that I'd never heard of prior to this, and one that I actually found through a Yelp search for "BYOB." DRK opened in September 2013, and specializes in yoshoku (Western-style Japanese food) and itameshi (same, but specifically Italian-influenced) cuisine, which I don't get to try all that often. It's the work of two old friends: GM Michael Yee, and Chef Satoru Yokomori.

About the Chef: Yokomori was born to a restaurant family from Kanagawa Prefecture, Japan. After attending Hadano High School and Meiji Gakuin University, he felt a desire to learn about European cuisine and thus started studying Spanish cooking in Tokyo. Yokomori later relocated to California, then worked stints in Canada and Guatemala before settling back in the Southland. He eventually secured a position at the now-shuttered Sawtelle Kitchen (now Flores and The Ladies' Gunboat Society), a longstanding Franco-Japanese restaurant opened by Chefs Kenji Minamida and Masayuki "Ishi" Ishikawa in 1990. After working his way up there, Yokomori moved to Chiba Restaurant in North Hollywood, an early pioneer of the sushi genre in LA, then helped open a number of restaurants, including both Sake House Yu Me Ya locations in Encinitas and San Diego. The Chef then took a job helming the kitchens at Izakaya Honda-Ya in the City of Industry, where he worked prior to starting DRK, and apparently also served as a loan officer at AAA Capital Investment, a mortgage brokerage firm.


The restaurant takes over the former strip mall digs of D'Antonio's Pizzeria, Vinny's Pizza, and Fioretto Trattoria, so the interior doesn't really read Japanese. In fact, the owners describe the place as having a loisaida ("Lower East Side") vibe, whatever that means.


Del Rey Kitchen's menu is a lighthearted affair, filled with Western-inflected, Japanese-y comfort classics. Supposedly, some items from Sawtelle Kitchen are featured as well. To drink, all you get is a variety of non-alcoholic beverages for now, so BYOB is highly recommended. Click for larger versions.


Given the liberal BYO policy, some appropriate beverages were called for, beginning with the 2014 Bottle Logic Darkstar November. Released last November as the brewery's first barrel-aged bottling, this was an imperial stout brewed with molasses and rye, then aged for eight months in Buffalo Trace barrels. It was a strong effort, with tons of bourbon and fruit on the nose, and a taste that brought more dark fruit, booze, brown sugar, and an overlay of rye spice.


Ika Geso Age [$6.95]
We started with one of the night's specials, which did not disappoint. The deep-fried squid came out crispy and snappy, loaded with a straightforward savoriness that was accented by a bright squirt of lemon on top. The tangy, sweet sauce on the side made sense, but wasn't strictly necessary.


Takoyaki [$7.95] | Octopus Fritters, Octobaby, Katsuobushi
Takoyaki was classic in essence, with the deep brine of the snappy tako accompanied by a fluffy batter and contrasting sweet and savory nuances, the katsuobushi adding further potency to the mix. My favorite part here was the "octobaby," which gave things a great touch of crunchiness.


Our next beer was a sour, the 2015 Upland Dantalion Dark Wild Ale, an Oud Bruin-inspired dark ale brewed with Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus and aged for a year in American white oak barrels. It was indeed tart, but not too tart, with dark, malty, chocolate-y notes countered by an intriguing spicy, grassy character.


Tsukemono [$6.95]
Pickles this evening comprised carrot, cucumber, umeboshi, and daikon varieties (my favorite of the quartet), paired with a well-placed topping of nutty sesame.


D.R.K.F.C. [$7.95] | Marinated Boneless Chicken, Deep-fried, Karaage-Style
Del Rey's kara-age was spot on: tender, juicy, delightfully crispy morsels teeming with deeply savory, soy-tinged flavors that I found very gratifying.


Next to imbibe was the brewery-only 2013 AleSmith Barrel Aged Old Numbskull, a barley wine matured for a year in bourbon barrels. It was a hefty brew to be sure, but still had finesse, with its notes of dark, slightly tart fruit, malt, and caramel set against influences of bourbon and vanilla from the barrel aging.


Beef Carpaccio [$10.95] | Raw Beefsteak sliced razor thin, Watercress, Onion, Sesame Aioli
A beef carpaccio was supple and delicately beefy, a fitting counterpoint to the sesame and bright, acidic salad on top.


Potato Salada [$4.95] | Japanese-Style Potato Salad, Pickled Cucumber, Carrot, Onion, House Special Mayonnaise
Being the potato salad fiend that I am, this was a must-order. It didn't let me down fortunately, a creamy, slightly sweet presentation taken up a notch by the crunchy, zesty bits of pickled veggie thrown in.


Drunken Wings [$7.95] | Deep-fried Sake-marinated Chicken Wings
Wings were also on point: super crispy, utterly juicy, and rich in umami flavors, with just a whisper of sake character for good measure.


The 2013 The Bruery Sour in the Rye with Kumquats was the second sour of our meal, a rye ale with kumquats added, aged in oak barrels. Lots of puckering, vinegary notes in this one, with a citrus-y, spicy, earthy character amped up by the heft of the oak. I wanted a stronger, more robust kumquat flavor here though.


Potato Cheese Gratin [$6.95] | Baby Red Potato, Monterey Jack and Parmesan Cheese, Mushroom, Creamy Goodness
The gratin came out super cheesy, super gooey, with the Jack and Parm making for a luscious topping for the base of potatoes.


Kurobuta Sausage [$5.95] | Oven-roasted Berkshire Pork Sausages, Mustard, Salsa Americano
Sausages were "cute," small, snappy, juicy examples with a smoky relish to 'em that went swimmingly alongside the sweet-tart mustard.


The oldest beer tonight, the 2011 Midnight Sun Arctic Devil was an English-style barley wine, brewed once a year and aged in oak for several months before release. This one smelled of sweet, dark malt, and tasted of more malt, booze and caramel, with a distinct woody quality to it throughout.


Aji Furai [$6.95] | Wild Japanese Horse-Mackerel Fillets, Panko, Tonkatsu Sauce
Fried mackerel arrived light and crisp, with the fish's trademark salinity present. The drizzles of sosu, however, rendered the dish overly sugary for me, though the veggies did help temper that a bit.


Carbonara [$15.95] | Applewood-Smoked Bacon, Mushroom, Cream, Yolk, Black Pepper
Our first of two pastas was a Japanese take on the classic carbonara, one with a strong, smoky backbone of bacon set against the overall creaminess of the dish, the pepper adding just a hint of zestiness to the fray.


More sour goodness came in the form of the 2014 Almanac Brandy Barrel Peche, an ale brewed with peaches and then aged six months in used brandy barrels. The beer drank tangy and bright, with juicy bits of citrus and stone fruit joined by tart, acidic nuances and an underpinning barrel-y darkness.


Spicy Caviar [$15.95] | Karashi Mentaiko, Icelandic Masago, Secret Butter Sauce, Nori
This next itameshi pasta is arguably Del Rey's most popular, and for good reason. I found it thoroughly pleasing, with the heat of the spicy mentaiko perfectly set against the briny, umami-laced flavors of the dish.


Hamburg Steak [$15.95 + $2.50] | Wagyu Beef & Kurobuta Pork Patty, Housemade 18-Hour Demi-Glace Sauce, Garlic Roasted Tomatoes, Rosemary Potatoes + add Fried Egg
Our last savory brought out Del Rey's "signature" hamburg steak. I enjoyed the actual meat itself, with its classically savory, satisfying flavors and springy consistency delivering as promised. The demi, however, went overly saccharine, hiding some of the inherent goodness of the steak, though I did appreciate the moderating effect of the rice and potatoes, not to mention the enveloping richness of that runny egg.


I opened a dessert beer in preparation for the sweet stuff, the 2015 The Bruery Chocolate Rain, released just days prior. A bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout with TCHO cacao nibs and vanilla beans added, this was clearly the most intense beer of the night, with massive amounts of chocolate and dark fruit on the nose leading to flavors of more chocolate, fruit, malt, spice, and bourbon. It was sort of like a boozy chocolate cake. Very good overall, though I wanted to taste more vanilla.


The Best Crème Caramel on the Westside [$7.50]
Deeming this the best crème caramel on the Westside is a bold claim, but not entirely unfounded I suppose. I can't say that it's the best, but it certainly was a damn fine effort, with the rich, sugary, caramel-y flavors here working well with the eggy custard.


Green Tea Ice Cream with Azuki Bean [$4.95]
The green tea ice cream was exactly what you'd expect, with its pleasantly bittersweet flavors doing a good job evening out the sugariness of those red beans.


One of my dining companions happened to live within walking distance, so we headed over and popped a bottle of Cantillon Gueuze 100% Lambic-Bio. I'd had the standard gueuze before, but not this variant, a blend of one-, two-, and three year-old lambics ostensibly brewed with organic wheat and malt. Upon opening, I got huge amounts of intoxicating, barnyard, almost blue cheese-like funk, while taste-wise, it was milder, with more of that earthiness and puckering, acidic tartness commingled with a light citric character and a hint of grassiness.

I wasn't expecting all that much going into here, but I left quite content I'll say. The cooking isn't ground-breaking, but managed to be comforting, familiar, filling, and just straightforwardly tasty for the most part. Add to that the BYO beers, and I was pretty happy.

Cadet (Santa Monica, CA)

March 12, 2015, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: Aaron Franklin & Adam Perry Lang at Nick's Cafe (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Del Rey Kitchen (Los Angeles, CA)

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Cadet Restaurant
2518 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90403
310.828.3300
www.cadetsm.com
Thu 03/12/2015, 07:45p-11:00p





When we last caught up with Kris Tominaga, he was dishing out Southern inspired fare with Brian Dunsmoor over at Palihotel's The Hart and The Hunter. The two chefs, however, left the restaurant in September last year, ostensibly because their contracts with the hotel expired. Dunsmoor, of course, took up residence at Ladies' Gunboat Society at Flores, though he's since decamped to work with former H&H GM Jonathan Strader on Hatchet Hall in the old Waterloo & City space. Tominaga, meanwhile, has gone off and teamed with Freddy Smalls' Jeff Weinstein on Cadet, a wood-fired, French campagne-inspired joint that bowed on November 1st.


Cadet is situated in the former home of The Shack, and the aging sports bar has been transformed by Nicole Gordon Studio to a rustic, cozy sort of space, replete with exposed brick, plenty of wood, and a formidable wood-burning oven in the back.


As for Cadet's menu, it starts with an array of hors-d’œuvre, which includes no less than six tartines. It then flows into an appealing selection of sides, and mains that comprise various wood-fired proteins served alongside banchan-like accompaniments. Click for larger versions.


To drink, you get some beers, a small wine list, and a classically-leaning cocktail assortment from Gabriella Mlynarczyk (Ink) divided neatly into four distinct categories (the original incarnation with three variations of everything--classic, French, Cadet--is no longer). Click for larger versions.


Since we arrived early, we took a seat at the bar in front of Gabby and ordered up a round of drinks.


French Margarita [$13.00] | Tequila, Yellow Chartreuse, Yellow Pepper, Lemon, Smoked Salt, Firewater Bitters
We began with Cadet's best-seller, its light, bright, peppery bouquet and spicy, smoky, savory flavor profile set over a restrained base of tequila. Easy-drinking and approachable--I can see why this is so popular.


The Bardot [$13.00] | Bourbon, Allspice, Pineapple, Lemon, Mint
This cobbler was one of my favorites: refreshingly minty on the nose, with a sweet, spicy, fruity, subtly boozy character that went down smooth.


The 22 [$13.00] | Scotch, Black Pepper, Honey, Ginger, Smoked Sage
Now this was certainly the most challenging of the troika. Ostensibly a take on Sam Ross' iconic Penicillin, the cocktail smelled of spice and savor, and tasted bittersweet and tart, with the smoked sage imparting a woody quality that enveloped the drink.


Smoked Lardo [$7.00] | Buckwheat Honey, Sea Salt, Toast
After being seated, we quickly ordered a few dishes, beginning with the lardo, a smoky, salty, unabashedly porky presentation cut by the sugariness of that honey. Very nice when spread over the included toast.


Sea Urchin [$12.00] | Shrimp Butter, Bottarga
Uni toast is definitely a thing now, and Tominaga's was a worthy example, with the briny, lingering lushness of the urchin on proud display, tempered by its base of bread.


Rabbit Boulettes [$16.00] | Herb Dumpling, Tendrils, Maple Cream
The meatballs are probably Cadet's signature dish by this point, and for good reason. First we have the rabbit, which comes out richly-flavored and well-textured, thoroughly enjoyable on its own. Then you add in the soft, fluffy biscuits and the creamy, herb-laced sauce to bind it all together, and you get a must-order item that's pretty hard not to like.


Ol' Dog, New Trick [$13.00] | White Dog Whiskey, Suze, Crème de Banane, Coffee Bitters, Chocolate Chilli
Time for more cocktails. The unaged whiskey here made for a robust drinking experience, the viscous liquid arriving loaded with a distinct chocolate-y quality as well as savory, tart, and citrus notes, the whole thing underscored by the sweetness of banana.


White Anchovy [$7.00] | Radish, Butter, Chives
This anchovy variation was actually my favorite of the tartines, with its unmistakable fishiness beautifully countered by the greenery while the butter made for a softer finish to the dish.


Grilled Local Squid [$14.00] | Potato, Sweet Pepper & Olive Salad
Next was a lighter presentation of squid, one with the ingredient's inherent flavors amplified by the sweet pepper and zesty olive while the potato served to moderate the dish.


French 76 [$12.00] | Lemon Vodka, Hops, Lemon, Champagne, Sweet-Tart Rim
Here was Mlynarczyk's take on the classic French 75, a tasty concoction that I found eggy and tart on the nose, and tangy and bitter on the palate, with plenty of lemon-y nuances to boot. Some of us even found it Pisco Sour-esque.


Beef Tartare [$8.00] | Roquefort, Butter, Chive, Smoked Oil
You generally can't go wrong with beef tartar, and Cadet's didn't go astray, with the soft, springy meat elevated by the weightiness of the smoked oil while the chives added just a touch of levity to the mix.


Wood Grilled Shrimp, Octopus & Monkfish [$28.00] | Spring Onion, Marjoram, Vinaigrette
At this point in the meal, we moved on into the more substantial courses, starting with a trio of seafood. The octopus was my favorite element here, coming out snappy and tender and wood-kissed, and I enjoyed the firm texture and brininess of the monkfish as well. Shrimp were a touch over unfortunately, though I did appreciate how the onion and marjoram combo tied everything together with a bevy of bright, herbaceous flavors.


Here we see the various accoutrements: spicy chili sauce, homemade pickles, house mustard, horseradish cream, lettuce, and those wonderfully fluffy disks of tangy injera-like sourdough flatbread.


Mauresque [$13.00] | Gin, Pernod, Suze, Hazelnut Orgeat, Orange Blossom, Lemon
A classic drink from southern France, this one was quite to my liking, with its distinct anise-y notes up front leading to a complex of sweet, creamy notes, accented by the zing of lemon.


Wood Grilled Rapini [$8.00] | Crunchy Chili Vinaigrette
Broccoli raab was spot on: bitter, crunchy, and well-charred, with a sharp bit of heat to finish things off.


Wood Grilled Pork Collar, Pork Toro, Milk Braised Shoulder [$30.00] | Natural jus
Following was a pork three-way, a hearty, heavy, gratifying presentation that showcased different facets of pig. Surprisingly effective when taken with the various little sides.


Old Bet [$13.00] | Vodka, Kummel, Lillet Blanc, Genepy, Fennel, Lemon, Candied Olives
Here was another cocktail favorite of mine, one with tons going on, but with everything in perfect balance, a commixture of spicy, sweet, herbal, bitter, anise-y, and floral, tarted up by a suan mei-esque sourness. Fantastic candied olives, too.


Pan Fried Pommes Aligot [$9.00]
An old-school dish from the South of France, this was just about the sexist preparation of pommes ever, a mash-up of cheese and potato that was almost fondue-like in its rich, creamy, gooey goodness. It was hard to tell where the cheese ended and the potato started.


Wood Grilled Ribeye Steak + Wood Roasted Bone Marrow [$46.00 + $6.00] | Epoisses, Red Wine, Beef jus
Our pièce de résistance of sorts, rib eye came out tender, juicy, and fatty, with some deep, salty, bovine flavors augmented, too much so actually, by the potency of the Époisses. We added on marrow, but it wasn't necessary here either. The meat can stand alone.


Martinez [$12.00] | Gin, Quina, Sweet Vermouth, Maraschino Liqueur, Orange Bitters, Sour Cherry
The classic Martinez was also a stand-out, bittersweet and highly aromatic on the nose, with a taste that went boozy and sweet, yet superbly balanced with a great gravity to it.


Cadet's dessert menu is small and simple, apropos for the place. Click for a larger version.


Apple Crumble [$8.00] | Walnut Ice Cream
Cozy flavors of apple sweetness and spice, with a cool ice cream contrast. The definition of comfort.


Lemon & Blueberry Tart [$8.00] | Sweet Cream
Delightfully tart and sweet, yet moderated by the cream up top and the buttery, flaky crust.


Chocolate Mousse Pie [$8.00] | Brown Butter Sable
Super dense, super dark, super chocolate-y, evened out by lovely pricks of salt and the lightness of that cream. Nice crust, too.

We're so used to seeing Tominaga cooking alongside Brian Dunsmoor, and the two made for a formidable team to be sure, but it was good to experience the Chef getting back into a solo routine. The result is a more serious, more classic, more rustic style, rooted in the coziness of French countryside cooking. Cocktails were commendable as well, making Cadet another notable entrant to the increasingly worthwhile Santa Monica dining scene.

Aaron Franklin & Adam Perry Lang at Nick's Cafe (Los Angeles, CA)

April 10, 2015, 2:50 pm

≫ Next: Mariscos Jalisco (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Cadet (Santa Monica, CA)

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Aaron Franklin & Adam Perry Lang Pop-Up at Nick's Cafe
1300 N Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
Fri 04/10/2015, 02:50p-08:10p



Back in March, it was reported that Aaron Franklin of Austin's Franklin Barbecue would be hitting the road for a series of pop-ups to promote his upcoming cookbook Franklin Barbecue: A Meat-Smoking Manifesto. If that wasn't enough, joining him would be Adam Perry Lang, a fellow author and BBQ authority. However, such plans were soon nixed, only to be replaced by a more formal affair: a twosome of dinners to be held at Animal on April 13th and 14th. Designated El Jefe: Austin Midnight Dinner, the meals represent a collaborative effort with Roy Choi/Jon Favreau, and cubanos are indeed expected to be available outside. Reservations for this latest iteration of El Jefe sold out expectedly quickly, so in order to bring BBQ to the masses, Franklin and Perry Lang recently organized a more egalitarian, first-come-first-served gathering at Nick's Cafe in Chinatown.


Though the event was advertised as starting at 6:00, I was somehow convinced to get there around 2:30. Turns out that was way overkill, as I think there were about five other people in line, all milling around the smoker.


Every so often, Perry Lang would open up the contraption and spray the briskets (with a Worcestershire/water mixture I hear).


Given the long wait, I brought along a few beers to help pass the time. First up was a pale ale, the Tampa Bay Brewing Reef Donkey, which I found deliciously juicy, floral, and citrus-y on the nose. On the palate, it was sharper, more bitter, pinier--definitely a case of smelling better than it tastes. This was followed by the 2013 Avery Uncle Jacob's Stout, a six-month bourbon barrel-aged stout that I didn't particularly care for. I have a hard time describing it, but there was this odd astringency that just tasted off to me. Maybe this was a bad bottle, but it lacked the characteristics of most BBA stouts out there.


And look who shows up: none other than Roy Choi (with some Chego bowls for the team).


Where did he even get the umbrella?


3:30, and still fewer than 10 people in line.


4:00, and we were instructed to form a line in order to secure wristbands and tickets.


We were also presented with the $50 prix fix menu (cash only, limit two orders per person, inclusive of tax and tip) and the house rules at this time.


Once ticketed and banded, we were able to sit down at picnic tables seemingly plucked from right out in front of Pok Pok Phat Thai. I'm assuming that the event was sponsored in part by Yeti Coolers (actually, Franklin is a brand ambassador), because reps from the company were on hand doling out swag (including extra goodies to Miss First-in-Line above).


Time for more beer, this time the 2014 Bell's Two Hearted Ale. An IPA, this smelled heavily of juicy citrus and tasted of smooth malt and crisp hop bitterness. Quite good, though definitely better fresh.


6:00 came and went, and the two chefs soon came out to explain that more smoker time was needed.


We were then instructed to line up once again, this time for the actual food.


6:30 sharp--inside at last.


Franklin proceeded to carve out the first piece of brisket for the first person in line.


They had an assembly line going: first the sides, then the brisket, the sausage, the pork, and finishing up with the onions, pickles, and bread.


And here we see the finished product, a plate comprising Creekstone Farms prime brisket, Niman Ranch pork shoulder, linguiça sausage, beans, coleslaw, pickles, onions, and sliced bread.


You gotta start with the Creekstone Farms prime brisket of course, easily some of the most flavorful I've had. I often yearn for more smoke on my brisket, but that wasn't a problem here, with its loads of smoke, char, and salt set against the inherent goodness of the beef. My only quibble? There were a few bites that veered overly dry.


The coleslaw was a worthy example, a nice touch of levity to counteract all the meat in play.


More beer. The 2009 Weyerbacher Fourteen was certainly the oldest of the bunch, made to celebrate the brewery's 14th anniversary. A wheat wine, I found this sweet, almost berry-like, with a nice malt profile to pair with the spicy and bitter notes present. Following was the 2015 Smog City Goldie, a bourbon barrel-aged Belgian golden strong ale that was just released at the start of April. I wasn't a fan of this one, finding it far too sugary, far too candied, with a strong boozy component.


Niman Ranch pork shoulder was pretty much spot on, coming out all juicy and tender, with a great char and porky savor to it all.


Beans had a bit of a spicy kick to 'em, which was a nice touch.


Linguiça sausage was a winner, beautifully textured with a great snap to the casing and a palpable, but not domineering spice.


Sliced bread was of the Old Country variety, a thick, substantial cut that did a commendable job soaking up all the leftover liquid.


Last to imbibe was a brewery-only release from last November, the 2014 Block 15 Framboise Black, a blend of Belgian-style witbiers fermented with Brettanomyces and Lactobacillius and then aged a year in French oak with black cap raspberries. Jammy and wonderfully aromatic on the nose, it tasted of subdued fruit, with a dry, countervailing mustiness, spice, and tartness to even it all out.


The two had quite a bit of meat left over at the end of the night, some of which I heard was donated to a local homeless shelter.

Overall, the event was pretty well orchestrated, and so despite the long waits, the time actually passed by pretty quickly thanks to the ticketing system and the ability to sit down and relax for much of the duration. I had no real complaints with the food, either, which ranks right up there with the best I've had in town. Now all we need is a permanent spot...

Mariscos Jalisco (Los Angeles, CA)

April 15, 2015, 3:00 pm

≫ Next: Love & Salt (Manhattan Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: Aaron Franklin & Adam Perry Lang at Nick's Cafe (Los Angeles, CA)

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Mariscos Jalisco Truck
3040 E Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90023
323.528.6701
Sat 04/04/2015, 03:00p-04:05p



Following a Project by Project meeting at The Great Company's SEED Center in Downtown, a few of us wandered off to East LA for a Mexican cuisine crawl of sorts. Our first stop was one of LA's most decorated loncheras, Mariscos Jalisco. The truck is the work of one Raul Ortega, who hails from the town of San Juan de los Lagos in Jalisco. He started his taco career selling tacos de cabeza in San Juan's Plaza de Armas, but eventually moved to Boyle Heights in 1983. After taking up residence in the apartment complex across the street from the current location of the truck (where he still lives), Ortega began peddling his beef head tacos on the side while working other jobs. This led to his own lonchera, and later Mariscos Jalisco, which debuted in 2002.


Originally, patrons were forced to sit and eat on a ledge beside the truck. However, these days, Ortega occupies the former digs of AC Behringer, a wholesale supplier of building materials and machinery. It's a much more comfortable sitting situation than before.


We BYOB'd it, natch, and I got things going with the 2015 Cigar City Florida Man double IPA, of which a mere 3,000 bottles were released back in March. It was a laudable effort, super juicy and grapefruit-y on the nose; taste-wise, I found it surprisingly subtle in terms of hoppiness, with a strong malt underpinning the main focal point for me.


Tostada Mixta [$5.75]
The mixed ceviche is definitely something that you want. Lovely texture and freshness on both the octopus and the shrimp, all over a tart, acidic base of ceviche de pescado. Nice crunch from the tostada to boot. Superb.


Tacos de Camaron [$2.00]
And here we see the signature tacos dorados de camaron, the dish that put Mariscos Jalisco on the map. Interestingly, the tacos are actually not the creation of Ortega (who's more of a ceviche guy). Rather, they were invented by a family friend from his hometown, one who originally worked at Mariscos 4 Vientos down the street. He eventually left 4 Vientos for Mariscos Jalisco, and brought his tacos with him; the rest is history. I'd tasted them before at events, but this was my first time having the tacos at the actual truck. They didn't disappoint, with their lush, spicy, gloriously shrimp-y stuffing melding perfectly with the crunchy shell, the avocado imparting a creaminess to the experience and the salsa the requisite amount of piquancy. It's a combination that just works, over and over again.


My next bottle was the 2013 Logsdon Cerasus, a barrel-aged Flanders red with both sweet and sour Oregon cherries added. This was delish, with the beer's soft, tart, oak-y qualities beautifully complemented but not dominated by overarching notes of the fruit.


Tostada de Aguachile [$3.50]
Ortega's aguachiles come out a blazing red, not your typical green. The dish was far spicier than I'd expected as well, but all that heat did somehow work with the well-textured shrimp, and the slices of avocado up top did help even things out.


Campechana [$7.00]
Up next was a mixed seafood cocktail of sorts. The actual mariscos were distinct and on point, and I appreciated the tanginess of the onion. However, the overall presentation went overly sweet, overly ketchup-y, with the seafood masked somewhat.


Tostada Ceviche de Pescado [$3.00]
The good ol' standard ceviche certainly satisfied with its delectable shards of fish and bright, zippy flavors, the avocado adding a much appreciated luxuriousness to the dish. Some lovely textures here too.


Our last beer brought out the Monkish Brewing Crux, a Belgian-style golden ale brewed with elderflowers. Think light, hoppy, yeasty, fizzy, and refreshing, with a restrained elderflower presence.


Poseidon [$7.75]
The Poseidon was an impressive looking plate, basically amounting to a Tostada Mixta topped with Aguachile. Quite satisfying, and I will say that the ceviche on the bottom did help in tempering the considerable heat present.


Peinados [$8.50]
Last up were oysters, briny, crisp specimens smartly amped up by the brightness of the chopped veggies while the octopus/shrimp offered up a welcomed textural element.

Overall, a strong showing from Ortega and his crew. The signature shrimp tacos were spot on of course (a must-try), but the rest of the food delivered as well. If you haven't been already, this place should be on your short list for both food trucks and mariscos in LA, especially with the comfortable, convenient seating now.

Love & Salt (Manhattan Beach, CA)

April 17, 2015, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: La Estrella (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Mariscos Jalisco (Los Angeles, CA)

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Love and Salt Restaurant
317 Manhattan Beach Blvd, Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
310.545.5252
www.loveandsaltla.com
Wed 03/25/2015, 8:15p-11:10p





Certainly, one of the longer-standing eateries in Manhattan Beach has to be Cafe Pierre, which opened in May 1977 and spent its first two years as a crêperie before transforming in a casual Cal-French spot. The work of father-daughter team Guy and Sylvie Gabriele, the place closed its doors on April 14th last year after nearly 37 years in business. In its stead, the Gabrieles have brought us Love & Salt, an Italian-inspired Californian concept created with former Terranea toque Michael Fiorelli, who's on board as both Executive Chef and Partner.

About the Chef: Born to an Italian-American family, Fiorelli was raised on Long Island, and supposedly got interested in food after reading through many a cookbook growing up. He never went to culinary school, but instead learned on the job, starting his career as a line cook at Asian fusion eatery Susanna Foo in Philadelphia. His next stop was the Tavern Room at Greenbrier Resort in West Virginia, where he cooked for three years under Chef Peter Timmons. During this time period, Fiorelli also worked stints at the Little Nell resort in Aspen on the off-season. He then moved to Patrick O'Connell's Inn at Little Washington, and then to South Florida, where he became Executive Chef at Mark Militello's Mark's at the Park in Boca Raton.

Following, Fiorelli went the corporate route in 2003, landing a job at Darden Restaurants developing Seasons 52 in Orlando. The Chef then moved out west to Los Angeles, becoming CdC at Kerry Simon's Simon LA at the Sofitel in 2006. In 2008, Fiorelli left to serve as Chef de Cuisine at Terranea Resort's mar'sel, and in May 2009, took on an additional role as Executive Sous Chef of the entire property. He stayed at Terranea until September 2013, and soon teamed up with the Gabrieles to launch Love & Salt, which debuted last November.

Second in command here is Rebecca Merhej, who functions as both CdC and Pastry Chef. She first worked with Fiorelli at Simon LA, and joined him at mar'sel in 2009 as sous before taking over as Chef de Cuisine in 2012 following his promotion (she herself was succeeded by Charles Olalia from Patina). Rounding out the team at L&S are General Manager Stephane le Garrec (the previous manager at Café Pierre) and AGM Melissa Gabrielle, Guy's other daughter.


Inside, the old Cafe Pierre space has been stripped and rejiggered by Ana Henton of MASS Architecture (Aestus, Lukshon) to a more casual, Californian, beachy, gray-on-wood affair. Spanning 2,600 square-feet and seating 100, the room features a kitchen counter in the back, a granite-topped bar to the side, and an impressively long communal table in the middle.


The Love & Salt menu features Fiorelli's Cal-Italian stylings in the familiar cadence of small plates-pizza-pasta-large format. To imbibe, Guy Gabriele's put together a respectable, reasonably-priced, Italian-leaning wine list (apparently, there also exists a much larger, much pricier "reserve" list), and you'll also find a handful of beers as well as cocktails designed by Copa D'Oro's Vincenzo Marianella. Click for larger versions.


The OG [$13.00] | mezcal, maraschino liqueur, limoncello, lime juice, Jerry Thomas bitters, salt & sugar rim
I had to commence with my mezcal cocktail of course. This particular one was super smoky, really showing off the spirit, though it did have subtle notes of sweetness and citrus to even things out. I wasn't terribly fond of the rim here though, finding it overwhelmingly salty.


Burrata & Leek Toast [$13.00] | pickled fresno chiles, california olive oil
A Cal-Italian meal wouldn't be complete sans a bruschetta-like dish, so this burrata-topped version sufficed, the cool, creamy cheese meshing well with the zesty leeks and tangy fresnos, all while the bread contributed crunch and char to the mix.


Lady in the Ballroom... [$13.00] | grapefruit vodka, st germain, red bell pepper, mint, lemon juice
I loved the sweet, bright, super peppery nose on this cocktail, which led to more delicate pepper on the palate, along with a light, tingling spice backed by a touch of sweet-n-sour.


Mortadella "Hot Dog" [$10.00] | pickled vegetable relish, house mustard
A miniature hot dog was delightful, showing off the mortadella against the acidity and crunch of the relish-mustard combo. Great crispness on the bun, too.


The Grape White Hope [$8.00] | sage, seedless white grapes, elderflower syrup, pear juice, soda water
The lone non-alcoholic cocktail of the night conveyed the essence of grape in a candied, almost Asian-y manner that I rather enjoyed.


Corned Lamb Tongue Panini [$13.00] | fontina, tomato aioli, pickled peppers, rye
Lamb tongue was done justice here, its earthy, deeply ovine qualities melding with the Fontina commendably, the aioli and peppers adding an offsetting element to the dish. Nice creeping spice here to boot.


Crispy Pig Ears [$9.00] | pickles, radish, spicy buttermilk aioli
Pig ears came out chewy yet crisp, their porky flavors highlighted by that tangy aioli on the side. Not a bad attempt, but I would've liked the ears crunchier, meatier.


Buffalo Soldier [$13.00] | bourbon, strawberry syrup, egg whites, lemon juice
I like me a cocktail with egg white, and this fit the bill, a frothy, bittersweet drink that gave up the sweetness of strawberry in a finessed manner, tempered by notes of citrus and spice.


Sauteed Cauliflower Leaves [$12.00] | olive oil, parmesan, soft mascarpone polenta
You don't see cauliflower leaves too often on menus, which is a damn shame, as they were superb here. Bitter and oh-so crunchy, they paired perfectly with the creamy, cheesy polenta.


Bootsy Collins [$13.00] | citron vodka, crème de mure, mint, blackberries, lemon juice, ginger beer
I got loads sweet, tart berry on the nose here, which I loved. Taste-wise, the fruit was more subdued, and the drink instead showed off strong notes of ginger and citrus, with the vodka adding a boozy base to the cocktail.


Roasted Baby Cauliflower [$14.00] | salsa verde, preserved lemon, parmesan breadcrumbs
The actual cauliflower was a winner as well, coming out crisp to the bite, well-charred, and smartly paired with the combo of lemon and salsa verde. Great textural element from the breadcrumbs, too.


Succo Bevanda [$13.00] | gin, st germain, prosecco, lime juice, basil cucumber-celery juice
The lone gin cocktail of the night, this smelled of bright, cool cucumber, while on the palate, I got more of that, along with light notes of citrus, spice, and even a bit of savoriness.


Grilled Flat Iron Steak [$24.00] | barley risotto, soft cooked egg, dandelion greens, black truffle butter
Love & Salt's best-selling item, the flat iron came out a bit tough (unsurprising given the cut), but with a strong, delectable char to it that went swimmingly with the steak's deeply beefy flavors. I was definitely a fan of the risotto on the side, a creamy, eggy preparation loaded with nuances of truffle and well-matched to the astringency of those dandelion greens.


Duck Egg [$18.00] | pancetta, panna, potato, rosemary, mozzarella, parmesan
We had to try a pizza, natch, and went with the restaurant's most popular, a gratifying combination of salty pancetta, cheese, and runny egg, all overarched by the aromatics of that rosemary.


Agnolotti [$18.00] | wilted escarole, parmesan brodo, little rabbit meatballs
Getting into the pastas now, the agnolotti was a favorite, with the wonderfully savory meatballs a great pair to the cheesiness of the pasta, all while the escarole offered up well-placed hits of bitterness.


No Ginger No Cry [$13.00] | appleton 12yrs dark rum, booker's bourbon, lemon, honey ginger syrup, orange juice
Ginger was the star here, its zestiness lingering long and strong, joined by a distinct honeyed sweetness and an apparent underpinning of booze.




Cavatappi [$16.00] | roasted garlic, bone marrow, parsley, parmesan, cracked black pepper
Given the presence of bone marrow, the cavatappi was a must. You could almost think of it as a jacked up mac 'n' cheese, a super herby, peppery preparation taken up a notch by the luxuriousness of that marrow. Great texture from the breadcrumbs as well, and I liked the tableside presentation (i.e. the sprinkling of parsley-Parm-crumbs and scraping of the marrow).


Dirty Blvd [$13.00] | rye whisky, galliano autentico, aperol, rhubarb bitters & celery bitters
This was the stiffest cocktail of the evening, and quite delicious at that, smelling of sweet citrus and conveying a spicy, boozy bittersweetness in a viscous body.


Rigatoni [$18.00] | olive oil poached tuna, fried capers, taggiasca olives, stewed tomatoes
The rigatoni was the least successful of the pastas. I quite enjoyed the actual fish, though the duo of olive and capers tended to overpower a lot of the other elements here.


Jimmy Conway [$13.00] | rye whiskey, rabarbaro zucca, amaro nonino, walnut bitters
The last of Love & Salt's original creations, this cocktail was also one of my favs. I found it sugary and spicy from the rye, with a pleasant bitterness and an intriguing component in the form of the walnut bitters. Very well put together.


Potato Gnocchi [$16.00] | prosciutto, mushrooms, wild arugula, parmesan
Our final pasta, the gnocchi arrived soft and supple, with a cheesy goodness to it that made reasonable sense with the salty ham and zesty arugula present. A bit awkward to eat though.


Hemingway Daiquiri [$13.00] | rum, maraschino liqueur, lime juice, grapefruit juice
The restaurant's take on the traditional Hemingway daiquiri went well enough, with the citrus notes here doing an admirable job counteracting the more potent flavors of the maraschino and rum.


Roasted Glazed Pig Head [$45.00] | maple, vinegar, pale ale, condiments, toast
The pig's head made for an impressive spectacle, coming out all glazed and shiny. The best part was the tender, toothsome, unabashedly piggy jowl meat, as well as the sweet, fatty, crunchy skin. Given how full we were by this point, we barely made a dent in the specimen, and ended up scraping all the meat off and taking it home.


And here we see the rather scary aftermath...


Vieux Carre [$13.00] | rye whisky, cognac, sweet vermouth, benedictine, angostura & peychaud's bitters
Our final cocktail was an undeniable classic, a worthwhile rendition of the New Orleans staple that balanced all the elements at play, making for a bittersweet, boozy concoction that hit all the right notes.


For dessert, you get the expected array of Italianate sweets from Merhej. Click for a larger version.


Honey Buttermilk Panna Cotta [$9.00] | brown sugar streusel, grapefruit
The panna cotta came out super light, perhaps too light, with a subtly lactic quality to it that really called for the juiciness of the grapefruit and that sweet, nutty streusel on top.


Meyer Lemon Tart [$9.00] | burnt meringue
The tart, meanwhile, was exactly what you'd expect: sour, but not too sour, with a sugary backbone to it and a delightfully buttery crust. Nice moderating sweetness from the meringue, too.


"Not Another Budino" [$10.00] | hazelnut, milk chocolate, sea salt
Love & Salt strays away from the ubiquitous budinos made popular by the likes of Mozza. Instead, the restaurant turns the dessert into a tart of sorts, a rather tasty one that married hazelnut and chocolate flavors in one crispy, appealing package.


In place of the traditional cake came complementary birthday cookies.

I'd been wanting to try Love & Salt for a few months now, and I'm glad I made it out. The cooking was comforting at its core, yet managed to remain fresh enough and interesting enough at the same time. It's got a mix of Italian tradition and Californian sensibility going on, the result of which was some fine eating, and the cocktails were nothing to sneeze at either. Another score for the rising South Bay scene.

La Estrella (Los Angeles, CA)

April 21, 2015, 4:10 pm

≫ Next: Jon & Vinny's (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Love & Salt (Manhattan Beach, CA)

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La Estrella Restaurant
940 S Lorena St, Los Angeles, CA 90023
323.266.4349
Sat 04/04/2015, 04:10p-05:20p





After loading up on seafood over at Mariscos Jalisco, we continued onward in our Boyle Heights excursion. The next stop was La Estrella, which may or may not be related to the trucks in both Highland Park and Pasadena.


We skipped the truck outside and instead took a seat indoors, a small, colorful spot replete with a jukebox in the back.


La Estrella's menu is posted simply on the wall, sans prices (so I wasn't exactly sure what everything cost). Click for a larger version.


Time for more cerveza. The 2014 The Bruery Mash was a barleywine aged in bourbon barrels, a not particularly aromatic ale, but one loaded with huge mounts of rich malt and sweet caramel flavors.


Birria [$8.25 (est)]
La Estrella is supposedly known for birria, and indeed, it was one of the better preparations of the goat I've had, the meat coming out super tender and brimming with deep, heady, spicy flavors. Quite gratifying, and even better with a squirt of lime and some bitter, crunchy radishes.


Some tortillas to accompany the goat.


Next to imbibe was the 2014 Mikkeller Winbic, a Christmas beer that blends Spontanale gueuze with saison. I got a nice bit of sweet holiday spice on the nose here, and on the palate, more sweetness and fruit, joined by a light funk, citrus, and a pleasant, refreshing acidity.


Taco de Cabeza [$1.25]
We had to get a couple tacos, and started with the head variety, a tender, fatty preparation imbued with some deeply beefy savors.


Our first stout of the crawl was the 2012 De Struise Black Damnation IV - Coffee Club, made from Black Albert aged six months in old rum barrels. I quite liked it, the beer's sweet, spicy, dark fruit nuances working well with the requisite coffee notes and the booziness of the rum barrel.


Pozole [$8.25 (est)]
I'm a pozole fan, so this was a must-order for me. It was a quintessential rendition of the soup, with the tender shards of pork nicely complemented by the broth while the veggies on top provided aevity and crunch. The key, of course, was the hominy, which added the necessary heft and substance to the dish.


Brewed with chestnut flowers, dried chestnuts, chestnut honey, and chestnut jam, the Birrificio Troll Palanfrina was actually my least favorite beer of this entire afternoon. A light sweetness on the nose led to a thin, slightly tart, flat, dull sort of beer. Not a fan.


Taco de Al Pastor [$1.25]
We concluded with the al pastor, some of the best I've had in fact due to the wonderfully savory, slightly sweet, and deeply-satisfying flavors present.

Aside from the somewhat lackadaisical service here, we were pretty satisfied with La Estrella and its hearty eats. The soups are certainly worth a try, and be sure to get that al pastor.

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Jon & Vinny's (Los Angeles, CA)

April 22, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Mexicano (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: La Estrella (Los Angeles, CA)

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Jon & Vinny's Restaurant
412 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.334.3369
www.jonandvinnys.com
Mon 04/20/2015, 08:00p-11:10p





With little fanfare and even less notice, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook's eponymous Jon & Vinny's dropped on Monday in what is certainly one of the most hotly anticipated debuts of the year. The restaurant is the pair's ostensibly kid-friendly ode to Italian-American cooking, and though I initially had no plans to visit on opening night, I was eventually cajoled in attending (though admittedly, my friends didn't have to twist my arm too hard).



Jon & Vinny's is situated in the former home of Damiano's Mr. Pizza, which closed in the middle of 2013 shortly after the launch of Trois Mec. Inside, the 45-seater room is swaddled with white oak, making for a minimalist-ish space that's pretty much the exact opposite of what you'd expect from a quasi-red sauce Italian joint. There's an open kitchen replete with counter seating on one side, and in the back you'll find the cutest wine shop ever, Helen's Wines, helmed by the Chefs' longtime Director of Operations Helen Johannessen. If that wasn't enough, check out Dotolo and Shook's catering operation, which has moved in next door.


As for Jon & Vinny's menu, it features updated takes on the classics, set in the familiar Italian progression of smaller plates, pizzas, pastas (all made in-house, natch), mains, and desserts. There's a completely different breakfast menu, of course, while to drink, you get to choose from some ho-hum non-alcoholic options, a smattering of beer, as well as Johannessen's selection of vino in the back. Click for larger versions.


As usual, we commenced with some bubbles, the NV Crémant de Loire Rose, Chateau de Brézé [$45]. It was a nice way to start off, a light, fizzy sparkler that drank dry and crisp, with some red fruit nuances coming in toward the close.


tangerine & avocado, walnut, spring onion, watermelon radish, fennel pollen [$11.00]
The salad was a pleasant surprise, with some zesty, astringent notes from the onion that paired beautifully with contrasting sweet, creamy elements in the dish. Good crunch from those walnuts, too.


the margherita [$12.90] | .... ya know
We made sure to try a few of the pizzas of course, and began with the O.G. It was classic in essence, with a strong cheesy presence cut by the tanginess of the tomato sauce while the basil contributed some herby aromatics to the mix. Nice crust too, which I found pleasantly bitter and slightly chewy, with the requisite leopard spotting.


wood grilled asparagus, lemon, olive oil, parmesan, black pepper [$11.75]
Asparagus arrived delightfully bitter, well-textured and well-charred, the Parm adding further hits of saltiness and heft to the veggie.


cornmeal fried spring onion, chili aioli [$9.00]
The deep-fried onion ate like a fancified version of an Awesome Blossom (or Bloomin' Onion for those readers Down Under). Satisfying in a somewhat slutty manner, especially when taken with a dab of that tangy aioli.


peter's meatballs, marinara, ricotta, garlic bread [$14.00]
Meatballs were classic and comforting, their savoriness offset by the tartness of the marinara in traditional fashion. I did appreciate the ricotta here as well, which provided a cool, creamy counterpoint to the meat.


sonny's favorite [$16.75] | grilled niman slab bacon, mozzarella, tomato, onion, grana padano
Bacon was clearly the star of this next pizza, giving off boatloads of salt, char, and savor that paired perfectly with the sweet-ish onion.


crust dip [$2.00/each] | ranch, creamy italian, marinara
For the crust haters out there, Jon & Vinny's offers a trio of dips: a properly luscious Ranch; a vinegar-y Creamy Italian; and a sweet-tart Marinara.


nettle conchiglia, ham, peas, truffle fonduta [$16.75]
Our first pasta course brought out the conchiglia, a delightfully cheesy preparation that highlighted the classic, always-effective pairing of ham and pea.


We stuck with rosé for our next wine, the 2014 Arnot-Roberts, Touriga Nacional Rose [$47]. I found this pleasingly floral on the nose, with some juicy stonefruit notes in there to boot. On the plate: much drier, crisp, with some minerality, grassiness, and just a bit more fruit.


lamb agnolotti, green garlic, mustard greens, pecorino [$15.25]
The agnolotti was appropriately lamb-y, with its ovine flavors well-paired with the heft of that Pecorino. Nice offsetting zip from the greens, though I could've used even more.


parmesan garlic bread [$6.25]
Next, a complementary order of garlic bread courtesy of GM Jessie Kohlberger. Though it didn't reach the lofty levels of the one I had last time at Trois Mec, it was still a damn tasty example, with plenty of garlicky, herby flavors cut by char and drizzles of olive oil.


bucatini cacio e pepe, lots of black pepper, butter, parmesan [$13.25]
Our final pasta arrived super cheesy, super rich, almost reminding me of an old school Alfredo. Evening things out was indeed lots of black pepper, which imparted a sharp spiciness to the dish that was absolutely crucial. It is interesting to note the texture on the bucatini as well, which was cooked past al dente to a soft, though not unpleasant consistency. It's like the sort of pasta my parents would actually eat.


the supreme [$18.00] | mortadella, mozzarella, provolone picante, red onion, mustard greens, chili oil
Finishing out our savories was the appropriately-titled supreme. I got a very gratifying meatiness from the mortadella here, which went swimmingly alongside the zippiness of the red onion. Nice touch of heat underscoring everything, too.


strawberry swirl cheesecake, strawberry sauce, cream [$9.00]
Getting into dessert now, the cheesecake was wondrously jammy, with the sweet fruit pairing well with the lactic notes present. Lovely savoriness on the crust to round things out.


parallel espresso soaked tiramisu, cocoa [$9.00]
The tiramisu was a fairly archetypal presentation. Lots of cocoa here, though the cake was still light and airy, with the coffee coming in more toward the finish.


harry's strawberry & rhubarb crostada [$7.25]
Next was an item from the pastry case. The crostata ate ultra jammy, sugary, fruity, though it was never cloying thanks to the contrast provided by the crumbly crust.


italian cookie plate: pistachio wedding, rainbow, biscotti, cannoli [$8.00]
Finally, some treats to close out the evening: colorful Rainbow cookies, minty and sweet; nutty, dry Pistachio Wedding cookies; Cannoli with a particularly floral filling; and a couple pieces of nutty, herby Biscotti.


Not surprisingly, Ludo and Krissy stopped in for a bite. Also spied this evening were Chef Tim Love and Jimmy Kimmel (who was also present at Trois Mec's debut).

Jon & Vinny's seems like a neat, neighborhood-y little spot, sort of a refreshing departure from the duo's previous projects. You're not going to find the modernistic culinary stylings that you might get across the street, let alone at Trois Mec. Rather, you get cozy, comforting classics, but executed in a manner that you'd expect from the Chefs. The restaurant delivered pretty much exactly what it advertised, and looks to be a worthy addition to their portfolio.

Mexicano (Los Angeles, CA)

April 25, 2015, 7:55 pm

≫ Next: Bombo (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Jon & Vinny's (Los Angeles, CA)

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Mexicano Restaurant at Baldwin Hills Crenshaw Plaza
3650 W Martin Luther King Jr Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90008
323.296.0798
www.mexicanola.com
Thu 04/02/2015, 07:55p-10:35p





Jaime Martin del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu opened La Casita Mexicana in 1998, their seminal Bell eatery that helped refocus Mexican cookery in Southern California. After 15 long years, the duo finally expanded their culinary offerings last year with the debut of Flautas, a quick service, flautas-focused joint inside the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw mall food court. I visited the spot back in January and enjoyed my meal there, so a dinner at its sister restaurant was a no-brainer. Mexicano opened at the start of February as a much more ambitious sort of place.


Things are cozy, colorful inside, befitting the food and what they're going for here. There's a brighter, brasher bar area out front (check out that mural depicting key figures in Mexican history and culture), a more sedate dining room in the rear, as well as outdoor seating to boot.


Divvied up into a number of small sections, Mexicano's menu spans multiple regions, and features La Casita classics in addition to some newer plates. To drink (the restaurant got its liquor license in March), you get an expectedly tequila- and mezcal-heavy cocktail list (the most reasonably-priced I'd encountered in a while), Baja wines, and a handful of non-craft Mexican beers. An interesting wrinkle is the presence of raspados, or shave ice, a tribute to the paleta cart once operated by Arvizu's grandmother (in fact, the entire bar is named "La Esperanza" after the cart). Click for larger versions.


In lieu of the ubiquitous pairing of chips & salsa, La Casita Mexicana provided chips & mole to the table. However, mole may be a bit much for the typical diner here, so instead, those totopos arrive accompanied by beans, pickles, and cotija.


Cantarito [$9.95] | Tequila blanco, orange, grapefruit soda, chile piquin
Given the place's newly-installed liquor license, we had to give the cocktails a whirl, starting with this concoction, a blend of sweet, smoky, spicy, and fruity nuances, backed by the agave notes of the tequila.


Guacamole al Tequila [$10.95] | Chefs' signature guacamole infused with tequila
The guacamole, unsurprisingly, was top notch, a lush, creamy presentation with a great overarching tanginess and just a whisper of tequila heft underpinning the whole dish. Great tostadas on the side, too.


Carrito Frutero [$9.95] | Tequila blanco, hand-crafted pineapple syrup, lime juice, chile salt rim
This next cocktail was one of the boozier ones of the evening, with the sweet, fruity notes in the drink balanced by a strong backbone of tequila and the spiciness of the salt rim.


Queso Fundido al Tequila [$10.95] | Cheese fondue with aromatic herbs and infused with tequila
Mexicano's queso fundido was certainly one of the best I've had, a super smooth, delightfully cheesy example perfectly grounded by the potency of the tequila. Even better when taken with the warm housemade tortillas and a dash of the included salsa.


Paloma [$9.95] | Tequila blanco, hand-squeezed lemon, orange and grapefruit juice, soda, salt rim
The Paloma seems to be becoming more and more popular, as I'd encountered variations of it recently at the likes of Scopa, Tacoteca, and El Condor. This was certainly the lowest-priced incarnation, and also the most apparent in terms of sweetness, with the fruity citrus really coming to the fore, tempered by the tequila and salt. Very easy-drinking.


Ceviche [$13.95] | With jalapeño peppers, carrots, onions, tomato and cilantro
Mexicano's ceviche was also on point: light, bright, and properly zippy, with the fish fresh and satisfyingly textured. In fact, I wouldn't mind seeing more renditions of ceviche here.


Raspado Alegre [$8.95] | Traditional shaved ice with natural syrup - Coco
We felt compelled to try a raspado, and the coconut version arrived sweet and fragrant, with some nice toasted bits and an undercurrent of booziness. I wanted a finer shave on the actual ice, though.


Enchiladas Mar (Shrimp) [$15.95] | Stuffed and in roasted tomatillo and pumpkin seed sauce
I enjoyed the enchiladas, which did a nice job showing off the inherent brine of the shrimp. Great texture on the tortillas as well, but the key here was that pipián verde, which imparted a fantastic offsetting tanginess to the dish.


Cochinita Pibil [$16.95] | Pork shoulder marinated and braised in achiote, bitter orange & spices. Served with white rice, black beans and spicy habanero sauce
If you recall, I wasn't too enamored with the cochinita pibil over at Flautas. I'm happy to report that Mexicano's was much more gratifying, with the deeply-spiced, tender nuggets of pork here accented by a tangy acidity.


Placero [$9.95] | Mezcal, lime, hand-crafted cactus syrup, chicharron and salt rim
Moving on to the mezcal cocktails now, this one did a great job showing off the spirit, its smoky character on display, yet moderated by the tartness of lime while chicharrón added a savory element to the mix.


Al Morita [$16.95] | Spicy shrimp with the smoky flavor of chile morita and agave
Shrimp were a touch overdone, but still delicious, their salinity deftly enhanced by the headiness of the smoky chipotle and agave here.


The shrimp came with rice on the side, an apropos accompaniment that was actually quite enjoyable even by itself.


Sereno [$9.95] | Mezcal, house ginger cordial, fresh lime, angostura bitters and soda
Our second mezcal drink was a bit more subtle, with a plethora of zesty ginger notes counteracting the potency of the booze.


Tres Moles [$16.95] | An exquisite combination of 3 moles: Poblano, Green and Pepian
La Casita is of course well-known for its mole, and indeed, the three varieties here made a strong showing for themselves. The Verde was the lightest of the trio, a nutty, creamy sauce that conveyed a subtle brightness from what I believe was tomatillo. The Rojo, meanwhile, was deeper, earthier, with a palpable smokiness to it. And of course, you have the classic Poblano, made here with a reported 46 ingredients and certainly the most multifaceted of the bunch, its disparate notes of sweet, savor, spice, and smoke all coming together beautifully. My only concern was that the actual chicken came out on the dry side.


7 Chiles Filet [$15.95] | A delicious fish fillet smothered with our 7-chile creamy sauce
We ended our savoriness with a tasty fish dish. The actual pescado arrived tender and slightly flaky, a nice level of doneness for our purposes here. The crux though was the seven-chile sauce, a creamy dressing that presented the piquant nature of the chiles in a restrained, refined manner that didn't overwhelm the fish.


Anticuado [$9.95] | Tequila reposado, orange bitters, agave nectar, orange and lime zest
Our final cocktail was certainly the booziest of the set, a viscous drink that played spicy, citrusy, and sweet against the potency of the reposado.


Churros [$5.95] | Traditional Mexican churros filled with cajeta "dulce de leche"
Time for dessert. We had to get the churros, natch. They were just what you'd want, coming out all sugary and caramel-y, creamy on the inside but with a satisfying crispness too.


Fried Plantains [$5.95] | Fried plantains topped with pecan cream sauce
Plantains were comparatively subdued in their sweetness, and I wasn't sure about the accompanying sauce. I wanted more brightness, more acidity, more of something here.


Capirotada de Tres Leches [$5.95]
Next was an off-menu dessert that's typically served on Good Friday (which was the day following our dinner). It was a bread pudding of sorts, a sugary and spicy one with some distinct savory and nutty notes.


Flan de la Casa [$4.99] | Signature house flan
Last up was the flan, a textbook preparation that was dense and eggy, with a lovely sugary component from the dulce de leche. Yum.

After waiting all this time, it was great to see Mexicano finally open. The food looks to be fairly comparable to what you'd get at La Casita, though there's certainly a wider selection of dishes here. Add to that a much expanded beverage program and some comfy environs, and it's a pretty nice place to be overall. Talking with the GM here though, I get the sense that the people around these parts aren't quite used to Mexican fare like this. Mole in particular was singled out as being viewed as too exotic. This sounds like the type of pushback that plagued LCM back in the day, so hopefully the Chefs will be able to work through it just like they did in Bell.

Bombo (Los Angeles, CA)

April 30, 2015, 11:30 am

≫ Next: The North Left (Santa Ana, CA)

≪ Previous: Mexicano (Los Angeles, CA)

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Bombo at Grand Central Market
317 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90013
www.bombofoods.com
Tue 03/31/2015, 11:30a-01:50p





The last time we saw Mark Peel, it was October 2012 and he was shutting down his longstanding eatery Campanile (now Republique). Following the closure, the Chef continued on with his consulting business, Orange and Blue, and cooked a number of pop-up dinners, starting with a stint at Square One (the "This Is Not a Pop-Up" series) in February 2013, which led to grilled cheese nights at 3Twenty Wine Lounge in March. October 2013 saw Peel bow out of the Campanile project at LAX, a joint venture with HMS Host that was announced all the way back in 2011. Interestingly, ex-wife Nancy Silverton reportedly replaced him on the project, which ended up debuting in December to middling reviews. In February 2014, he cooked four nights at Il Grano with friend Sal Marino, and later competed against Marino on Ilan Hall's Knife Fight, working with English peas, venison, and sea snails.

This brings us to Bombo, which was announced last September and teased at a couple of pop-up previews at Rascal in January. The restaurant opened on March 26th in the stall formerly occupied by Lupita's, and is a casual, "broth-based" seafooder-slash-fish market (though the market portion seems to be forthcoming). The conceit here is that most of the dishes are cooked using steam kettles, i.e. those steel-jacketed contraptions that we seemingly all first discovered over at Palace Station's Oyster Bar in Las Vegas.


Bombo's menu is straightforwardly classic, mostly single-serving plates and bowls with a few sides and salads thrown in. To drink, beer and wine are reportedly coming, but so far it's non-alcoholic only. Click for a larger version.


Dining at GCM always means trying out some new beers, and first up to the plate was the 2015 Cigar City White Oak Jai Alai, an IPA aged in American oak. Very floral and quite hoppy on the nose, while on the palate, I got more of that biting bitterness, but with increased depth and softness due to the barrel aging.


Seattle Fish Stew [$14.00] | with Clams, Mussels, Shrimp and Cod Steamed in Lobster Broth with Bacon, Potato and Diced Tomato with Oregano and Rouille
We began with one of my favorites, a seemingly bouillabaisse-inspired seafood soup. I really appreciated how each item arrived well-cooked and distinct--the snappy, briny shrimp and cod in particular--and yet cohesive, with everything tied together by the deep ocean-y flavors of that lobster broth.


Housemade Lemonade [$3.00] | with fresh ginger
Bombo's lemonade was quite good: tangy and sweet, with a zesty finish of ginger that lightened the whole drink.


Fried Chicken [$11.00] | Crisp Fried Thighs and Steak Fries with Spicy Vinegar and Persian Cucumber Yogurt Dressing
The fried chicken was a must of course, and came out tender, juicy, and super herby, with a lovely crispness to it thanks to the panko-like outer coating. Solid with a dab of the tart vinegar on the side, and even better when paired with that wonderfully light, cool yogurt condiment.


Potato Salad [$6.00] | with Hard Cooked Egg, Napa Cabbage, Roasted Onion, Dill and Mustard Vinaigrette
I'm quite the potato salad aficionado, and Bombo's was unlike what I'm used to. The potato provided a base of heft and savoriness, countered by the crispness of the cabbage, all while the egg added a certain amount of lushness to the mix. Good overarching tanginess from the mustard to boot.


Next to drink was a sour, the 2014 Wicked Weed Malice Wild Ale, a 100% Brettanomyces beer brewed with blood orange and tamarind then aged five months in wine barrels. This smell super funky, almost sewer-ish in fact, while its taste was more subdued, tart and citrusy and barnyard-ish, with a light hit of tamarind toward the rear.


Steamed Mussels [$11.00] | with Curried Shrimp Cream, Garlic, Tomato, Potato on Egg Pappardelle
Mussels were very nice, all springy and spongy, tasting briny yet clean, the potato adding a great bit of weight to the dish. I appreciated the use of onions here as well, and the texture on the noodles was on point, too.


And now for something different: Crabbie's Original Alcoholic Ginger Beer. I found this quite sweet at first, with the spice of the ginger coming through toward the midpalate. Very little alcoholic presence here, so this could be dangerous.


Seared Tofu [$9.00] | with Spicy Vegan Ragout of Napa Cabbage, Dried Mushrooms, Kombu, Pickled Garlic, Radishes and Scallion Oil
Tofu had a fine sear on it, and just enough character to keep it interesting. The other components here were key though, adding enough brightness and umami to make for a pretty satisfying dish overall.


Chef Peel was in the kitchen the entire time, busy working those steam kettles the whole duration.


Braised Beef Short Rib [$13.00] | with Dried Mushrooms, Mustard Greens, Oyster Sauce and Roasted Onion on Egg Pappardelle
The short rib was another highlight for me. The beef arrived tender, yet with a bit of bite, and loaded with all the deep, bovine flavors that you'd expect. Mustard greens offered up a tempering, earthy astringency, and the zip of the onions made sense too.


The 2014 Block 15 Figgy Pudding was a holiday beer brewed with white figs, black figs, black strap molasses, then aged in brandy barrels and spiced with Ceylon cinnamon and nutmeg. In terms of nose, I got surprisingly little, with just a trace of light, sweet spice. On the palate, think loads of dark fruit, joined by more sweet, warming spice, citrus, and the weight of the brandy underpinning it all.


Chopped Salad [$8.00] | with Iceberg Lettuce, Red Cabbage, Marinated Tofu, Broccoli, Napa Cabbage, Chickpeas, Pickled Carrot and Red Onion and Oregano Vinaigrette
A chopped salad was light and bright, with some crunchy textures and a smart use of tofu, the whole thing brought together by the zestiness of the vinaigrette.


DIPA duties were handled by the 2015 Noble Ale Works Tongue Tickles, a good effort from the brewery that was bracingly bitter and slightly tropical in terms of aroma, while taste-wise, I got more of those hops, along with a juicy grapefruit quality.


Steamed Fish of the Day [$12.00] | on Kombu and Dried Mushroom Broth with Napa Cabbage on Steamed Rice with Flax Seed and Pickled Onion
The fish of the day was yellowtail, firm and flaky to the bite, yet juicy. It seemed light on seasoning though, so the rest of the ingredients here were absolutely crucial in making the dish work.


Chicken Salad [$9.00] | with Eggplant, Dried Apricot, Pecans, Kabocha Squash, Roasted Onion, Potato, Arugula and Oregano Vinaigrette
Chicken salad had a nice interplay between the savoriness of the bird, the potato, and the bitter spiciness of arugula. I could've used less apricot, less pecan though.


The 2015 Knee Deep Brewing Lupulin River was another Double IPA, this one coming in juicy and tropical on the nose, but also quite dank. Meanwhile, it tasted of citrus and pine-y bitterness, but with a stronger, more noticeable undercurrent of malt.


Steamed Clams & Pork Sausage [$11.00] | with Roasted Onion, Chick Peas, Lobster Broth on Egg Pappardelle
I was a big fan of the savory, herby sausage here, and the clams themselves were pretty much spot on too. There was a sort of enveloping heat that I liked, and the chickpeas lent a fitting gravity to things as well.


The final DIPA was the 2014 The Alchemist Heady Topper, which came from the same batch I had a Brilliantshine. Yes, so this was Heady that I'd intentionally aged for six months, just to see what would happen. The difference was that the tropical aroma of the beer, that juicy grapefruit, was subdued, with the piney nature of the hops showing through more. On the palate, there was also less citrus and more of a sharp, bright bitterness, and the malt backbone of the beer was also more apparent, making for a "stickier" experience overall.


Curried Shrimp [$12.00] | with Crushed Peanuts, Chili Paste, Roasted Onion, Kabocha Squash and Potato on Steamed Rice with Flax Seed
The kitchen didn't hold back on the curry, with the dish's plethora of spicy, aromatic notes melding reasonably well with the still-snappy shrimp.


Tomato Salad [$7.00] | with Feta, Cucumber and Black Olives
Last up was a sort of Greek salad, a commixture of light, bright, juicy, and piquant nuances set against the creamy, tangy feta.


Our final beer was the newly-released 2015 Almanac Farmer's Reserve Strawberry. I found it expectedly tart, with good amounts of earthy funk, barnyard, and vinegar coming through, though not enough actual strawberry.


Bombo doesn't seem to offer any sort of dessert options, so some items from the nearby Valerie had to suffice.


Peel seemed harried, but happy.

After a two-and-a-half year hiatus from LA's dining scene, it was nice to see Peel back in action at Bombo. The food worked apart from a few exceptions, and was a welcomed change of pace from what you typically find at Grand Central, harkening back, just a bit, to the Chef's times at Campanile.

The North Left (Santa Ana, CA)

May 3, 2015, 8:25 pm

≫ Next: Coin de Rue 13ème Pop-Up (Los Angeles, CA)

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The North Left Restaurant
400 N Broadway, Santa Ana, CA 92701
714.543.3543
www.thenorthleft.com
Sat 03/14/2015, 8:25p-11:15p





I don't doubt that Jason Quinn's game-changing Playground was the spark that helped ignite the recent resurgence of Downtown Santa Ana, paving the way for all manner of restaurants to follow. The North Left is one of the area's latest, most promising debuts, a Pacific Northwest-inspired, rustic-modern American joint directed by OC golden boy Ryan Adams.

About the Chef: Adams grew up in the tony Orange County enclave of Laguna Niguel and first started cooking alongside his grandmother. He knew that he wanted to become a chef by the time he reached age 15, and following high school graduation in 1993, enrolled at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. During his tenure there, he apprenticed at a number of places in the City, including One Market, Vertigo, and Jeremiah Tower's landmark Stars. After finishing culinary school in 1995, Adams moved to Hawaii, where he became CdC at Lahaina Grill in Maui. Two years later, he left and cooked briefly in Chicago and New York before moving to OC in '97 and opening Citrus City Grille in Old Towne Orange. Following, Adams became opening chef for French 75 in Laguna Beach, then corporate chef for David Wilhelm's restaurant group Culinary Adventures. From January 1998 to the end of 2008, he helped the company launch 25 properties, including Chat Noir and Savannah Supper Club.

After David Wilhelm declared bankruptcy in August 2008 and resigned his post at CA, he sold one of his restaurants, Sorrento Grille, to the property's longstanding (i.e. since 1988) landlords, Diane and Philo Smith. The Smiths kept Wilhelm on as a consultant, and as part of that arrangement, Adams was brought in as Executive Chef. He ended up buying out the Smiths in early 2011, then retooled the place, relaunching it as Three Seventy Common Kitchen+Drink later that year (interesting tidbit: his original name for the place was Common Table). The new restaurant was well-received, and he followed it up with The North Left, a venture with Chris Alfaro, Phil Nisco, and Marc Yamaoka of The Crosby that debuted in June 2014. Running the kitchen here on a day-to-day basis is Aron Habiger, top toque at The Crosby from when it opened in 2008 until the middle of 2013, back after a year of traveling and eating. The FOH, meanwhile, is the charge of Andy Markuson, formerly of Three Seventy Common and Lola Gaspar.


The North Left occupies the site of the ill-fated Crosby. The space has been refreshed a bit since its early 2014 shutter, but still has got a dark, gastropub-y, wood-centric vibe going on.


The North Left's menu is refreshingly compact, with around 10 smaller plates and just three larger ones. To drink, find a small array of wine, a handful of beers, and some worthwhile cocktails, including a quartet of barrel-aged ones. Click for larger versions.


Crudo [$12.00] | albacore < buttermilk < shiso < sorrel < cucumber < lemon < olive oil
We began with the crudo, a multifaceted preparation that played sweet against savory and the heft of the olive oil, the cucumber and shiso/sorrel adding a much appreciated zestiness. The tuna seemed a bit too warm though, and I would've like more acidity to cut through things.


Barrel Aged Bourbon Manhattan [$12.00]
Our first cocktail was classic in essence, citrus-y and bittersweet on the nose, with a spicy, slightly herbaceous palate underscored by the weight of the booze.


Brussels Sprouts [$10.00] | san joaquin gold < hazelnut
Brussels were superb, coming out well-textured and satisfying to the bite, with their bitterness smartly paired with the enveloping richness of brown butter. Nice nutty crunch here, too.


Barrel Aged Gin & Sage [$12.00]
This next cocktail was light on the nose, though bracing to taste, with the sage really amplifying the inherent botanical nature of the gin.


Chicken Nuggets [$15.00] | fried < bbq < maple < bourbon
We had to get the nuggets, natch, and they didn't let us down. Tender, crispy, and imbued with a subtle spice, they were a joy to eat alone, and just as good with the sweet-n-sour condiment.


Barrel Aged The Leatherman [$13.00]
My favorite of the barrel-aged cocktails (apparently a combination of scotch, rye, and bourbon, smoked), this had an amazingly aromatic nose loaded with notes of vanilla. Taste-wise, I got lots of spice and smoke and booziness leading to a long, lingering finish. Very good.



Steak Tartare [$13.00] | bonito flake < scallion < shallot < sabayon
The tartar came smoked, and encased in probably the largest cloche that I've ever encountered. It was pretty amazing, with loads of smoke on the nose and the cuts of springy, supple beef beautifully paired with the sweet, tart nuances present. Lots going on, but it all came together.


Gin Fuego [$11.00] | gin < citrus < harissa < cayenne
Not much of a bouquet here, but on the palate it was another story: think sharply spicy, savory, and bitter, with a lovely touch of persisting heat on the close.


Cauliflower [$7.00] | honey < thyme < goat cheese
Cauliflower arrived nicely textured and subtly sweet from the honey. The pairing of the chèvre was unexpected, though not unpleasant, and I loved the crunchy bits here as well.


Honest Earning [$12.00] | pilar dark rum < orgeat < citrus < meringue
Very intriguing nose on this cocktail, as I got a spicy, almost curry-like quality. It tasted much more conventional though, with tart flavors underpinned by a delicious bittersweetness.


Steel Cut Risotto [$15.00] | oats < escargot < manchego < mushrooms < chives < nasturtium < pea tendrils
Oat risotto was a commendable take on the classic rice dish that I found quite gratifying. The porridge was super creamy, with the Manchego adding an overarching richness that I appreciated. I was a big fan of the crispy, salty bits of mushroom here as well, and how the snail provided a sort of textural contrast. At the same time, nasturtium imparted a zippiness to things that really lightened the dish.


Bloody Nail [$12.00] | scotch < drambuie < heering
Smelled of artificial cherry, and tasted much the same, with its almost medicinal sweetness joined by tangy notes of citrus.


Herb Crusted NY Steak [$32.00] | spinach mashed potato < bonito butter < sautéed arugula < pickled shallots
Steak came out artfully plated. The beef itself was enjoyable alone, but was really taken up a notch by its accompaniments, the bitter arugula, the tart shallots, that excellent, unabashedly verdant spinach mashed potato. Very nice.


Peter Piper [$11.00] | seasonal shrub, just ask!
Tonight's seasonal shrub was a kumquat vinegar, which provided a sharp, in-your-face tanginess that commingled with the sweetness of agave and the heft of the drink's tequila base.


Duck Salad [$18.00] | duck confit < crouton < bacon < egg < sherry < apple
Up next was perhaps the manliest-looking salad that I'd ever encountered, sort of a play on the iconic salade Lyonnaise. It was pretty damn tasty, with the juicy, tender, deeply-flavored duck working well with the sweet apple, greens, and lushness of the egg. I wanted more crunchiness on the croutons though.


Cucumber Gimlet [$12.00] | gin < cucumber < lime
The gimlet was classic, with the interplay of gin and lime augmented by refreshing mint and cool cucumber.


Fries [$5.00] | house ketchup < green garlic aioli
Fries were on point, nicely textured and straightforwardly savory, and even better with a dab of smoky ketchup or pungent aioli.


Chester Copperpot [$11.00] | rum < ginger < cinnamon < citrus
Our final cocktail was an easy-drinking one, with loads of sweet, spicy, ginger-y notes leading to a tingling spice on the back end.


Desserts at The North Left come courtesy of Ashley Guzman (Ray's and Stark Bar, ink), whom we last saw at Playground. Click for a larger version.


Haters be like... [$10.00] | "pb & jelly"
I've always held a disdain for PB&J, but definitely warm up to the ubiquitous sandwich when it's turned into a plated dessert. Great mix of nutty and chocolate flavors here, with the jelly up top providing a contrasting tartness to the mix. Nice textural play on the peanuts to boot.


Sorbet [$6.00] | cara cara orange
Sorbet was refreshing and served as an effective palate cleanser, the citrus' bright, true-to-life flavors really hitting the mark.


Bibingka [$11.00] | Harry's Berries strawberries < rhubarb < coconut sorbet
Lastly, Guzman channeled her Filipino heritage for this take on the traditional bibingka rice cake. The actual cake was light, moist, and spongy, a fitting base for the pairing of strawberries, coconut, and creamy mascarpone. I liked the incorporation of the traditional banana leaf here as well.


Markuson's reservation system is decidedly old school. They don't need no stinkin' OpenTable.

Despite dining here on a bit of whim, we ended up having a lovely time. The food was on point for the most part, and it was nice to see a blend of whimsical and rustic, of familiar and modern in the cooking here. And you can't forget about the cocktails, which have got to be some of the more notable in Orange County. Overall, another score for DTSA's burgeoning cuisine scene.

Coin de Rue 13ème Pop-Up (Los Angeles, CA)

May 6, 2015, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Preux & Proper (Los Angeles, CA)

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Coin de Rue 13ème Pop-Up at Michael J's Pizzeria & Bar
643 N Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.687.8888
Thu 04/30/2015, 08:15p-11:45p





Back in February, we saw the return of David Féau to the LA dining scene. The Chef staged a three-week pop-up called Coin de Rue inside the old Red Medicine space in concert with Adam Fleischman. The series was largely well-received, and so he followed up with a second iteration (sans Fleischman as far as I could tell), which debuted on April 16th and ran until May 1st. Michael J's in Chinatown was the setting for this incarnation, entitled 13ème after Paris' 13th arrondissement, home to the City's Chinese population.


Inside, things were pretty cozy. They didn't really have any large tables (save for the communal hi-tops), so our party of six had to squeeze into a booth meant for four. It was workable, though certainly not preferable.


The Chinese-influenced menu for Coin de Rue 13ème centered around a three-course prix fix at $49 a head, which was joined by supplemental courses and some bar bites. To imbibe, Garrett McKechnie (formerly of 1886 at The Raymond) had a few cocktails going, while wines were available by the glass or by the bottle. BYOB was definitely an option as well (which we clearly took advantage of). Click for larger versions.


El Galgo [$15.00] | El Silencio Mezcal - cognac - orange liqueur - agave - grapefruit - lime - smoked sea salt
Given my penchant for mezcal, I had to get started with this. Think pleasantly smoky on the nose, and tasting of sweet-n-sour along with an overarching wisp of cognac heft.


Peppercorn Croquembouche - Chicken liver and foie gras mousse [$10.00]
The croquembouches were a repeat from the last go around, though we weren't complaining. They were delightful little bites, sugary at first, with the heft of the liver coming in later, the whole thing accented by the crunch of that caramelized top.


Artichoke gratin, gorgonzola dulce latte, madeira expression [$12.00]
Next was quite possibly the most unconventional preparation of artichoke that I'd ever encountered. The star ingredient's light, vegetal flavors were forcefully conveyed, yet complemented by the pungent, piquant nature of the blue cheese while apples added some juicy crispness to the fold. I really appreciated the sprouts here as well, which offered a zesty accent to the dish.


French 75 [$12.00] | Gin - lemon - lemon peel - sparkling wine
A pretty traditional French 75 was light and refreshing, with the lemon-y notes in the drink working well alongside the gin. What was interesting here was that there was a marked savoriness on the finish that I couldn't quite put my finger on.


Rabbit rillette, peach mustard, country toast [$10.00]
Rillettes were classic, really showing off the supple, savory rabbit while the mustard provided a sugary underpinning to the course. Superb texture on that crusty bread, too.


Fried four cheese ravioli / pesto herb salad [$11.00]
The most whimsical of the bar bites (and probably my favorite), ravioli were encased in egg roll wrappers as an ode to the pop-up's Chinatown locale. I loved the herb-y brightness here, which did a wonderful job counteracting the cheesy flavors at play, all while the egg roll casings imparted a fantastic Asian-y fried savor to the fray.


We BYOB'd it tonight for the most part, starting with the 1996 Henriot Champagne Brut Millésimé. It was great to taste some aged Champagne for a change. This one still had plenty of effervescence to it, and boatloads of breadiness paired with a nice oxidative quality and some citric notes.


Steamed cauliflower, melted cheese / tomato relish [$10.00]
Cauliflower was crisp and crunchy, and very subtly seasoned, so the cheese was key in providing the requisite amount of heft to the dish. Nice tartness from the tomato here as well.


Warm goat cheese Tartine / sourdough toast, bacon vinaigrette [$10.00]
A goat cheese tart was on point, with the creamy, tangy chèvre providing the necessary lactic lushness to the dish while bacon imparted saltiness and savor. And again, wonderful texture on the bread.


My favorite wine of the evening was the 2001 Domaine Y. Clerget Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées. I found this earthy, acidic on the nose, while on the palate, I tasted tart, light fruit, spice, and a green, herbaceous edge.


Foie Gras Poëlé _ riz noir et rouleu de laitue, echalotte brulé sauce de canard lacqué [$18.00] | Seared duck foie gras_ forbidden rice lettuce roll, toasted shallots, lacquered duck sauce
At this point we got into the evening's three supplemental courses. This first was impressive, and reminded us of Feau's foie gras barbeque lettuce wraps that we had at that epic 30-course foie dinner back in 2012. The richness, the potency of the silky, supple, seared liver was beautifully displayed here, moderated by the sticky sushi-like rice while cucumber provided a crunch and levity to things. Toasted shallots supplied a hit of savory astringency, and the close was all about that Peking duck sauce and its bittersweet finish. Definitely one of the highlights of the meal.


Cuisse de grenouilles et racine de Persil a la moëlle de boeuf, ail des Ours [$18.00] | Pan roasted frog legs, parsley root bone marrow, spring garlic
Frog legs were perhaps a bit chewier than I'd like, but were spot on flavor-wise, with their briny edge nicely played against the slight sweetness and spring garlic present. The marrow, meanwhile, wasn't really necessary.


Beef Cheeks [$20.00]
An off-menu special, the beef cheek was another standout, coming out super tender and showing off all the deep, dark, bovine flavors that you'd want, amplified by the dish's clear broth. At the same time, the green chard was a welcomed touch, adding a great hit of counteracting bitterness, and I was a fan of the purple carrot and potato emulsion as well.


Bordeaux time. The 2001 Château La Croix du Casse was a potent wine, earthy and almost meaty in terms of bouquet, while on the tongue, I got notes of deep, dark fruit, tinged by a trace of mint.


1a: Cruditée de carrotte salad Est-Ouest | Raw shaved carrot Salad, East_West
Getting into the prix fixe now, we commenced with certainly one of the most intriguing presentations of crudités I've had. I loved the crisp texture on the carrots, and how their inherent sweetness was paired with all the bright, herby, citrusy nuances present.


1b: Asperge Blanche "Tempura" miel de truffle sea salt | Asparagus tempura, truffle honey / sea salt
Another favorite of mine was the asparagus, made into some of the best tempura I'd ever tasted. I got an initial kick of truffle and sugary sweetness here, which then led to the crisp, bitter flavor profile of the meaty stalks of asparagus. Wonderfully light batter, too.


1c: Oeuf brouillés chou et langues d'Oursins / bisque de crabe | Soft scrambled eggs, cabbage, sea urchin / crab bisque
In another redux from the last pop-up, eggs and uni were paired together again in buttery, briny fashion, the crab bisque further amplifying the saline notes in the dish. Also key: the cabbage, which did all it could to provide a modicum of levity to things. Good, but not quite as revelatory as last time's.


2a: Soy l'y Laisse de Poulet scallops et oeuf poché en demi deuil, salade de fève et poireau | Chicken oyster scallops and poached egg, warm leeks and fava beans salad
Scallops arrived well-textured and tasty, though they were outshone by the chicken oysters, which had a wonderful savoriness to them that paired swimmingly with the crunchy favas. A cozy, hearty sort of dish.


2b: Fletan d'Alaska et girolle cuit au four dans une marmite en terre cuite | Clay pot baked Alaskan halibut, chanterelle mushroom, jus natural
Halibut was soft and super flaky, with its delicate flavors augmented by the earthy chanterelles while the greenery up top provided just the right amount of brightness. Lovely.


2c: Navarin d'agneau aux olive, gnocchi de pomme de terre aux olive | Spring lamb stew, medjool date, rainbow chard, green olives and potato gnocchi
This was a homey course, with the lamb's rich, hefty flavors joined by the sweetness of date while the chard gave up a nice touch of bitterness. I liked the fluffy bits of gnocchi here as well, though my concern was that the lamb was a touch tougher than I'd prefer.


For dessert, we moved on to a beer, the 2013 The Bruery Brandy Barrel Bois. This was a doozy, unsurprisingly, with its nose of dark fruit, brown sugar, oak, and booze leading to more of the same on the palate, along with a tangy, vinous note from the brandy barrel-aging.


3a: chaud foie de Myrtille, Sorbet de Lait infusé au riz brun torrefié | Fresh blueberry Jubilée / toasted brown rice frozen milk
A frozen milk of rice was sweet and creamy, but also conveyed a huge amount of sesame oil-like character that was rather unexpected. Those nutty notes actually paired pretty well with the sweet-tart berries, but I would've liked a bit more brightness here, maybe from some mint or some lime.


3b: Tarte aux Citron de mon jardin sablé / lait d'amande, french meringue | Garden meyer lemon tart, almond latte, french meringue
A lemon tart was appropriately tangy, with its puckering qualities tempered just a smidge by the savoriness of that crust. Nice textures on the meringues.


3c: glace aux caramel aux beurre noisette, granola de Pretzel | Brown butter caramel ice cream, pretzel crumbled
In my favorite of the desserts, ice cream showed off all the caramel-y, nutty flavors that you'd expect from brown butter, a sweet, but not overly saccharine presentation that melded well with the crunchy, salty pretzels.

We all left 13ème very content with the food. Féau did a commendable job here, surpassing the plates that he put out at the first incarnation of Coin de Rue. The incorporation of Asian influences was fairly subtle for the most part, but definitely seemed to jive with his French roots. In fact, it's a direction that I'd like to see him pursue further. When asked about his future plans, the Chef stated that he already has another location in the works, so I'll be sure to be on the lookout for that coming up.

Preux & Proper (Los Angeles, CA)

May 10, 2015, 5:05 pm

≫ Next: SMYC (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: Coin de Rue 13ème Pop-Up (Los Angeles, CA)

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Preux and Proper Restaurant
840 S Spring St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.896.0090
www.preuxandproper.com
Wed 03/18/2015, 05:05p-07:00p



One of the latest in the new crop of New Orleans-style eateries in LA is Preux & Proper, which debuted on December 18th in the building that once held Casey Lane's short-lived Parish (and Angelique Cafe before that). The restaurant is the work of Mark Egland and Joshua Kopel, who launched another NOLA joint, Hollywood's FiveOFour, back in August 2010. In fact, the initial thought was this was supposed to be just another outpost of FiveOFour, but plans soon changed given the unique personality of the space. The cooking here is, of course, inspired by the Big Easy, and helming the kitchen is Executive Chef Michael Ruiz, a SoCal dining veteran.

About the Chef: Early in his career, Ruiz worked at Gale's in Pasadena and Nic's Restaurant & Martini Lounge in Beverly Hills. However, he only began making a name for himself when he opened Bistro Verdu in Glendale in the fall of 2003. The restaurant was well received, but he sold the spot in June 2007 to Nadav Bashan, who opened up the eponymous Bashan there soon after. The following January, Ruiz debuted Ingredients, a retail shop-slash-daytime eatery in Montrose, but shuttered the spot that May. Next, he became corporate chef for Steven Arroyo's Cobras & Matadors mini-chain, and revamped the menus at the original Beverly location (closed 2012), in Los Feliz (closed 2009), and on La Brea (closed 2008 after only a few months; formerly Goat bistro, and Happi Songs before that). Ruiz also transformed Arroyo's South Pasadena wine bar 750mL into the ill-fated, short-lived Lil' Parlor Pizzeria during this period.

In March 2009, the Chef, presenting himself as Saltbutterpork catering, partnered with Jeff Zimmitti from Rosso Wine Shop (located next door to Bistro Verdu) to launch Supper Club, an underground dining series. Those dinners achieve a modicum of popularity, and in December, he launched FORK bistro in Montrose. FORK, however, didn't even make it to the end of the year. Ruiz ended up leaving Arroyo's side in 2012 and began consulting, with one of his clients being The Morrison in Atwater Village. He was eventually brought on as Executive Chef there in October 2013, and in December that year, signed on with Ball & Chain in Hollywood, a meatball-centric venture by Spacecraft's Kris Keith and Morrison owner Marc Kreiner. The restaurant opened in June 2014, and by September, Ruiz had begun work on Preux & Proper (he left B&C in January this year).


I didn't know this going in, but the restaurant's two distinct spaces are actually named "Preux" ("brave") and "Proper." Given that we were here during happy hour, we were limited to the downstairs "Preux" setting, the more casual of the two levels where ordering is done at the bar. "Proper," meanwhile, is the schmancier set, with proper table service and all that.


Again, given that it was happy hour, we were presented with a much more limited menu of bar-friendly bites at first. To drink, we have moonshine-centric, New Orleans-inspired cocktails reimagined by Pablo Moix, and if that's not your thing, there are a dozen beers on tap, some wines, and six flavors of frozen daiquiris (see below). Click for larger versions.


Vieux Carre | JP wiser rye, D'usse cognac, Martini & Rossi sweet vermouth, benedictine, Angostura bitters
First to drink was NOLA's iconic Vieux Carré, a classically-leaning rendition of the cocktail that I found very well integrated, a viscous, heady drink with deliciously boozy, bittersweet nuances.


Deviled Eggs [$7.00] | espelette, anchovy
Deviled eggs are a must for me, and P&P's definitely delivered, superbly balancing the fishiness of the anchovy against the lushness of egg, the whole bite finishing with a great countervailing acidity.


Pimm's Cup | Pimm's, lemon, lime, orange, cucumber, mint, simple syrup, ginger beer
Here we had another version of an iconic cocktail, this one much lighter in presentation. Lovely notes of sweet spice initially, balanced by a subtle bitterness and a slightly medicinal backbone. Tasty, though a touch watery.


Smoked Shrimp Beignets [$8.00] | remoulade, sea salt
The beignets were certainly a highlight of the meal for me, coming out fluffy yet substantial, with a superb brine and snap from the shrimp. Even better with a dab of the tangy remoulade.


Fried Oyster Po' Boy [$12.00] | arugula, tartar sauce, tomato
The iconic po' boy was enjoyable as well, with the savory, crispy, saline oysters nicely moderated by the inclusion of juicy tomato and zesty arugula. Good with dab of the creamy, spicy sauce on the side too.


Category 6 | Midnight Moon strawberry moonshine, pineapple juice, orange juice, lime juice, passionfruit syrup, grenadine, Bacardi oakheart
Our next cocktail was a modified version of the Hurricane, that legendary N'awlins creation that manages to hide any trace of booze behind boatloads of sugar and fruit. Easily quaffable--the perfect drink for getting shit-faced in the French Quarter.


Crispy Frog Legs [$8.00] | chiles, sauce picante, coriander seeds
Frog legs arrived crisp yet juicy, tasting not unlike a fishier version of chicken.


Blackberry Honey Sour | Buffalo Trace, lemon, honey syrup, blackberries
This was rather nice, the cocktail's delectable notes of citrus up front leading to a palate full of tart berry commingled with bourbon and the weight of that honey.


Belly Bites [$7.00] | maple hot sauce, romaine, crispy onions
Pork belly came our crunchy, sweet, and savory, accented by a whisper of heat. The lettuce served as a fitting vessel, acting as a lightweight counterpoint to the pig.


Lobster Roll' Boy [$16.00] | cold dressed, remoulade, avocado, hot sauce
Here was arguably my favorite dish of the evening. I'm a sucker for lobster rolls, and I found this a thoroughly effective variation. The lobster itself was sweet and supple, and melded seamlessly with the creaminess of the avocado and the light, bright crunch of the lettuce, the tangy remoulade tying it all together. The optional hot sauce on the side made for a fitting accompaniment, too.


At this point, we transitioned over to the dinner menu, a fuller exploration of the cooking here. Click for larger versions.


Steam Pot [$22.00] | andouille, seafood, corn, potato, saffron court bouillon
Here we see Preux & Proper's ode to the classic Cajun crawfish boil. I quite appreciated the depth and brine of the broth here, and how it tied together all the disparate, but harmonious elements. I was especially fond of the crab legs, as well as how the corn and potato grounded the dish.


Cauliflower [$9.00] | pumpkin seeds, sweet onion, pickled chilies
Cauliflower showed off spice, char, savor, and crunch. However, something seemed off here. I couldn't quite put my finger on it, but the dish was somehow discordant.



Rocket Fuel & Piña Colada Frozen Daiquiri
Of course, we had to try one of Preux & Proper's frozen daiquiris, and the bartender suggested this blend of Rocket Fuel (Vodka, Everclear, Orange) and Piña Colada (Coconut, Moonshine, Pineapple). The overall effect was reminiscent of a boozy Creamsicle, and made for a dangerous drink, a trashy drink, the kind of drink that just begs to be drunk out of a two-foot-long plastic glass while walking the streets of Vegas.


Debris Hash [$17.00] | crispy pork belly, potatoes, brisket, bacon-onion jam and soft egg
I enjoy a good hash, and this was a good hash, the brisket tender, the belly crisp, the potato and peppers doing an admirable job tempering the heftiness of the meat.


Gumbo Fried Rice [$8.00] | andouille, okra, egg
Last up was the gumbo fried rice, which brought together two things I enjoy: gumbo and fried rice. It really did capture the essence of the classic Creole dish, and I wanted a bigger bowl of the stuff.

I walked into Preux & Proper pretty much because it was across the street from where I was earlier (the California Market Center). I walked in without much in terms of expectations, but walked out pretty satisfied. The food was by and large quite good, sort of presenting the core of New Orleans cuisine, but with a slightly Californian slant to it. We'll see if this place can outlast its predecessor.

SMYC (Santa Monica, CA)

May 13, 2015, 7:50 pm

≫ Next: Birch (Los Angeles, CA)

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Santa Monica Yacht Club Restaurant
620 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.587.3330
wwww.eatsmyc.com
Sun 05/03/2015, 07:50p-10:30p





When Andrew Kirschner launched Tar & Roses at the start of 2012, he sort of set the stage for a mini-revival of the SaMo dining scene. The place is hugely popular and almost universally lauded, so I wasn't surprised when the Chef announced his second project last April, to be set in former digs of Stefano De Lorenzo's La Botte. Billed as a small plates joint featuring globally-inspired seafood, SMYC debuted on April 8th this year with Chef de Cuisine Walter El Nagar at the helm (coincidentally, he was also head chef at La Botte for a period). El Nagar, of course, has been running his Barbershop series of pop-ups over the past couple years, and was supposed to team with Adam Fleischman to launch a permanent spot called Barberia in Downtown (I'm assuming that's no longer happening). Also on board here are T&R partner Johnnie Jenkins as Director of Operations, and Jeff Swarthout as General Manager.


The old La Botte has been transformed into a nautical-meets-mid-century sort of affair by local firm Peter Tolkin Architecture. The space feels noticeably cozier, seating 84 inside along with 10 more on the patio.


SMYC's menu is expectedly heavy on the seafood, with a handful of meat-centric plates and a few more veggie dishes to round things out. Note the international influence present, the Asian and the Latin flourishes that show up here and there. To imbibe, the focus is on cocktails by Chris Ojeda (Soho House, The Varnish, Osteria Mozza), classically-leaning examples with a nod toward seasonality. You'll also find a smattering of beers and a decent wine list. Click for larger versions.


Don's Mai Tai [$14.00] | a blend of aged rums, lime, grapefruit, pebble ice, absinthe
We arrived early for our reservation and ordered a couple drinks at the bar, including this take on a Mai Tai as interpreted by Don the Beachcomber (as opposed to Trader Vic's). Think bittersweet, sour, and spicy, with the potency of the rums underscoring the whole drink.


Singapore Sling [$14.00] | gin, benedictine, cherry heering, lemon, pineapple, egg white, soda
The Mai Tai was accompanied by another long drink, the Singapore Sling, a tasty preparation that featured a pleasant astringency to it all, offset by nuances of tropical fruit and the moderating effect of egg white.


Upon being seated, we were brought a complementary amuse bouche of sorts comprising tuna heart, almond ricotta, avocado, and shaved bottarga. It was my first time tasting the heart, and it was intense, showing off an unabashedly deep, lingering saltiness augmented by the cured roe. At the same time though, the combo of avocado and ricotta provided a creamy, lush counterpoint that was key in evening out the bite. Very cool, and a very strong start to the meal.


Todays Oysters [$18.00] | cocktail sauce - yuzu mignonette
Oysters were crisp and appropriately ocean-y, nicely tarted up by the zip of yuzu.


Sea Urchin [$16.00] | chicharron - finger lime - smoked tomato
We couldn't pass up on the sea urchin of course, and indeed, the uni's lush, creamy salinity was at the forefront here, transitioning to the brightness of finger lime while the super-duper porky chicharrón lasted long on the close.


Swordfish Nduja Bruschetta [$10.00] | calabrian chili - dried olive
This was certainly my first time having 'nduja made with swordfish (it's usually crafted with pork). It had all the classic flavors though, a pungent, spicy, salty spread tempered by the dish's base of bread.


One of my dining companions happened to have some wine with him, so naturally we had to help drink. The first was the ubiquitous NV Moët & Chandon Champagne Brut Impérial, which we've probably all had before. It was a classic presentation of bubbly, with its notes of tart apple, sweet floral/fruit, and minerality backed by a toasty, biscuit-y foundation.


Ridgeback Prawn Tostada [$12.00] | meyer lemon - chili oil - basil
The tostada was another highlight, the creamy prawns joined by plenty of bright, fresh, juicy, herbaceous notes to make for a perfectly summer-y dish. Great crunch from the tortilla to boot.



BBQ Eel Lunch Box [$12.00] | rice - egg - togarashi - sweet soy
We were fans of the "lunch box" as well, a seemingly dosirak-inspired preparation plucked straight out of Kang Hodong. It wasn't the prettiest thing after all the vigorous shaking, but it was damn tasty, with its sweet, savory, distinctly Asian-y flavors satisfying in a cozy sort of manner.


Charred Octopus [$17.00] | potato - salsa verde - smoked paprika
Octopus was superb, a wonderfully textured example with a lovely char and savor that was certainly one of the better versions I've had in recent times. Loved the acidity and balance imparted by the salsa here, and the potatoes did a great job in grounding the dish. This is one to get for sure.


Ceviche [$14.00] | striped bass - coconut water - cilantro - thai chili
Ceviche was beautifully plated, and delivered in the taste department too. Chunks of bass were supple and satisfying, a great stage on which the bright, sweet, herby, acidic notes here could sing. I loved the texture on that coconut as well.


Next to drink was the 2013 Paltrinieri Lambrusco di Sorbara Piria, one of the best lambruscos I've had for sure. Think really deep and perfume-y, with a balance of sweet, fruity, tart flavors evened out by just the right amount of minerality. A crowd pleaser.


Sweet and Sour Sardine [$13.00] | onion - fennel - grapes - pine nuts
Sardine was well presented here, its trademark brine and delightful charring offset by contrasting notes of sweet and zesty.


Next, El Nagar brought out a take on pasta e fagioli, which comprised pasta cooked in the method of risotto, along with clams and a mantis shrimp jus. The seafood made for some intensely savory, salty flavors here, while the texture of the pasta threw me, as I would've liked it firmer, less gummy.


Another special from the Chef were these excellent fried mussels. Stuffed with ricotta and bottarga, they showed off a mouthwatering savoriness that paired swimmingly with a dab of the included uni aioli. I just wanted to keep popping these guys.


Finally, carabineros prawns from Spain arrived well-textured, with a forceful touch of salinity intensified by what I believe was a lamb consommé. Gotta suck the head.


Our final wine was another Italian, the 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora. The person who brought it wasn't a fan initially, noting the presence of volatile acidity. However, we warmed up to the wine as the wine warmed up. Slightly acidic aromas of red fruit, earth, herbs; on the palate, a whisper of smoke, spice, berries, with a tart, tannic quality to it.


At this point, one of my dining companions busted out some apriums, which we promptly consumed.


Lobster Toast [$17.00] | garlic aioli - lemon - dried roe - chive
The lobster toast was another standout, conveying the sweet, buttery brine of the crustacean in glorious manner, set off by nuances of lemon and chive. Sort of like an open-faced lobster roll.


Vitello Tonnato [$13.00] | veal loin - tuna sauce - parmesan - caper
Veal arrived cool and meaty, augmented by the creamy tuna-based sauce while Parm added a salty weight to the mix.


Queens Park Swizzle [$14.00] | rum, lime, bitters, mint, pebble ice
With the wine all drunk up, Cody Summers (whom we last saw at Coin de Rue) brought out a few more cocktails for us to sample. First up was this tiki classic, with its appealing aromatics of mint and bitters leading to a boozy base of flavors cut by sharp bursts of lime.


Mussels [$13.00] | tangerine - olive - fennel - aleppo pepper
Mussels were probably the juiciest, plumpest examples we'd ever seen, tasting of the sea and deftly paired with contrasting thrusts of heat and fennel zip.



Octo-Bun [$15.00] | octopus - olive aioli - tomato - arugula - potato bun
What basically amounted to an octopus sandwich played the savoriness of the cephalopod against the pickle-y tartness of the veggies here. Nice bun too, though I really would've liked more charring on the actual protein to make for some deeper flavors.


Army/Navy [$14.00] | gin, lemon, almond, orange flower water. UP
Summers then gave us another classic cocktail, quite possibly my favorite of the night. I loved the flowery notes here provided by the orange water, and how that commingled with the sweet 'n' sour qualities of the almond and lemon. In fact, the whole floral, perfumed bouquet of the drink I found strangely reminiscent of my grandmother's house.


Green Papaya and Cabbage Slaw [$8.00] | fish sauce - herbs - peanuts
This Thai-inspired salad hit the mark, an explosion of spice, acid, and crunch underscored by the pungency of fish sauce. Loved the peanuts here.


Lamb Kabobs [$11.00] | banana raita - piquillo pepper harissa
Lamb was beautifully cooked, arriving mouthwateringly-flavored with a fantastic bit of charring. Tasty alone, and just as good with a dip in that sweet-cool raita.


Baby Artichokes [$10.00] | black garlic vin - almond cream - parmesan
I'm generally not a huge artichoke fan, but the ingredient was done justice here, its light, vegetal flavors amped up by black garlic and Parm while the almond cream imparted a bit of softness to things.


Smooth Sailing [$14.00] | jamaican pot stilled rum, orange bitters, green chartruese. ROCKS
Our last cocktail was a creation from Chris Ojeda. It was the stiffest of the bunch, with smooth, citrus-y aromas leading to a heady blast of booze and astringency, tinged with just the right amount of sweetness.


Chocolate Rice Pudding [$9.00]
There's no actual pastry chef at SMYC, so dessert options are limited to just two. We got both, naturally. The first was a rice pudding enhanced with chocolate, which made it sweeter than usual, but not overly so. Nice balance from the whipped cream up top, and the hazelnuts were a welcomed addition as well.


Lime S'more [$9.00]
A lime-infused s'more was even better, with the citrus' tartness working well with the classic flavors from the Graham cracker base and toasted marshmallow.

Tar & Roses made a hugely positive impact on the Santa Monica dining scene, and SMYC looks to continue in that tradition. The cooking seems to be a blend of Kirschner's robust, rustic sensibilities intermingled with El Nagar's more progressive Italian leanings, with a dash of international influence tossed in for good measure. It all makes for a fun, multifaceted approach to your good ol' seafooder.

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Given the limited dessert options at SMYC, we headed over to Sweet Rose Creamery following the dinner. Flavors tried included a sweet, zesty Basil and a delightfully floral, nutty Rose Geranium with Salted Pistachios. Yum.

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Birch (Los Angeles, CA)

May 17, 2015, 8:20 pm

≫ Next: King Hua (Alhambra, CA)

≪ Previous: SMYC (Santa Monica, CA)

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Birch Restaurant
1634 N Cahuenga Blvd, Hollywood, CA 90028
323.960.3369
www.birchlosangeles.com
Tue 05/05/2015, 08:20p-10:55p



When I last encountered Brendan Collins, he was cooking over at Waterloo & City, one of the Southland's premier gastropubs, which he opened in May 2010 with GM Carolos Tomazos. The duo followed up W&C with Larry's, another gastropub-y spot inside Venice's Hotel Erwin that launched in August 2011. That September, Collins also took on a Consulting Chef role at Palihouse Courtyard Brasserie in WeHo, and the following January, started work on the food & beverage program at the related Palihotel (The Hart & The Hunter quickly took over the hotel's main restaurant though). In August 2013, he appeared on the debut episode of Ilan Hall's Knife Fight, defeating David Féau, and would later become a regular judge on the show.

A further foray into television came in the form of an "expert" role on MTV's House of Food, alongside Casey Lane and Brooke Williamson. Despite all his successes though, Collins announced late last year that Waterloo & City would soon shutter, and indeed, the restaurant closed at the start of February, to be replaced by The Hatchet Hall from Chef Brian Dunsmoor and Jonathan Strader. The reason for the closure, apparently, was that he'd grown tired of the gastropub genre.

In place of the cooking that he's been known for over the past several years, Collins is instead taking a more elegant approach with the food at Birch (the name is a nod to the thicket of birch trees near his hometown of Nottingham, England), a restaurant that aims to capture his entire journey as a chef, from his fine dining training in Europe to his various positions in Los Angeles. Birch bowed on March 10th, and joining Collins in the kitchen is Chef de Cuisine Stuart Gerber, the former CdC at Waterloo & City who'd been there for its entire run.



Birch occupies the 2,200-square-foot former home of Fuku Burger, which has been redone by Swede Ann Karlstrom. The restaurant reflects the designer's Scandinavian roots and features large swaths of light wood and plenty of neutral tones. There are 28 seats in the main dining area up front, two communal tables for 16, six stools outside, 15 seats at the bar, and another 16 seats in the patio out back.


Birch's menu is pleasingly compact, mostly smaller plates and a few larger ones, all ostensibly influenced by the Chef's time spent here in LA. To drink, you get a small wine list, beers on tap and in bottles, and a selection of cocktails. The beverage program was originally created by Sal Roses (MB Post), with the help of Phil Wills and Tony Pereyra of Spirits in Motion, but Roses has since left, and I understand that the cocktail program has been recently revamped by Gabriella Mlynarczyk of Cadet. Click for larger versions.


I arrived early at the restaurant, so I ordered up a can of the dudes' pecan brown [$7] while waiting. The beer really did live up to its name, delivering massive amounts of sweet, nutty notes with a backing of malt and slight coffee.


As such, the beer paired quite well with the homemade Brown Butter & Sugar Cookies brought by one of my dining companions.


smoking word [$13.00] | vida mezcal, corralejo, maraschino, grapefruit bitters, lemon
The requisite mezcal cocktail was surprisingly restrained on the nose, but on the palate, you got the smoky essence of the spirit, joined by countering bittersweet notes and hits of citrus.


Chicken liver mousse [$12.00] | toast
The chicken liver was classic at its core, giving up all the earthy nuances that you'd expect, tempered by the sugary layer of fruit on top. Great over toast, and I appreciated those tiny, tart cornichons as well.


black manhattan [$13.00] | sazerac rye, amaro, bitters
The traditional Manhattan was made "black" by the substitution of amaro for red vermouth. It was a worthwhile replacement, with the herbal, medicinal notes of the liqueur working well with the citric, bittersweet, boozy notes in the cocktail.


Caramelized Sweetbreads [$15.00] | potato gnocchi, cauliflower, preserved lemon
Sweetbreads were richly flavored, giving off all the deep, dark flavors that you'd expect. They were joined by pillows of gnocchi and cauliflower, which provided a much-needed touch of levity. I would've liked a crispier bite on the offal though, to provide some more textural contrast to the dish.



Monkfish tikka masala [$20.00] | lime pickle
Chicken tikka masala seems to be everyone's introduction to Indian food, and Collins' monkfish version was right up there. He didn't hold back on the spicing, with the supple, springy, juicy fish coming out teeming with all the palate-tingling aromatics that you'd expect. Yum.


jet setter [$12.00] | hamilton rum, lost spirits cuban rum, lime, grapefruit
Here was one of the easier-drinking cocktails of the night, one showing off an almost savory quality to its spicy nose, while on the tongue, there was a palpable sweetness and fruitiness to round things out.


Rabbit baklava [$19.00] | dates, white beans, pistachio, carrots
I'm generally not a huge fan of baklava, but Birch's rendition definitely hit the mark, pairing the tender, savory nuggets of rabbit with some delectably sweet, nutty notes. Excellent flakiness on the pastry, and I appreciated the coolness of the yogurt and the zippy mustard here as well. This is one you probably want to get.


Scallop Crudo [$24.00] | Jonah crab, leche de tigre'
The crudo was another highlight for me. I loved how the super sweet scallop was augmented by the even sweeter crab, both elements joined by contrasting herbaceous, acidic notes that evened out the whole dish.


smashin' [$11.00] | rittenhouse, aperol, lemon, mint
Birch's take on the Whiskey Smash worked out, conveying bright aromas of mint and citrus and a palate teeming with more lemon, bittersweet Aperol, and just a trace of whiskey.


Hamachi [$17.00] | grapefruit, horseradish, olive oil
Yellowtail arrived fresh and clean, and just fatty enough, smartly enhanced by the zip of horseradish, the juicy sweetness of grapefruit, and the lingering heat of the chiles.


Tuna tartare [$14.00] | green apples, avocado, asparagus
The tartar turned out much better than I thought it would. There was a great depth to the fish, and the acid and crispness from the apples was spot on. Lovely crunch from the chip on the bottom to boot.


run around sue [$12.00] | kettle one vodka, apricot, citrus, vanilla, tarragon
Next was perhaps the most gluggable cocktail of the evening. Herby notes of stonefruit in the bouquet, while the palate brought lots of fruit and sweetness, overarched by a strong vanilla presence.


Sunchokes [$15.00] | kohlrabi, broccolini, red thai curry
One of my favorites was without a doubt the sunchoke, which just might've been the best preparation of the root veggie that I've ever had. Its inherent nutty, mild sweetness was flawlessly matched with the rich, coconut-infused curry, which enveloped and integrated the entire dish while kohlrabi and broccolini added further points of bitter contrast. Great nutty bits here, too.


Grilled lamb belly [$19.00] | peas, sugar snaps, foie gras butter
Lamb belly came out super tender, decadent almost, loaded with all the dark, fatty, ovine flavors that you'd want. The crunchy, bright peas made for a beautiful contrast, though I didn't taste too much from the foie gras butter (I'm not sure if I needed to).


vino snap [$11.00] | san pietro gavi, cocchi americano, lemon ginger
This wine-based cocktail was light and sugary on the nose, while taste-wise, I got a juicy and fruity bittersweetness, tinged by just a trace of ginger.


Baby Octopus Ragu [$19.00] | rigatoni, bone marrow, ricotta salata
Pasta was heavily-flavored, with a tangy, salty base from the tomato-rich ragu here. The actual octopus was well-textured, though there wasn't enough of it. The other elements here sort of overwhelmed the supposed star ingredient.


Pork shank [$28.00] | palm sugar, fermented coleslaw, za'atar flatbread
Our final savory brought a pretty massive pork shank, an appropriately tender, super porcine preparation with just a smidge of sweetness. Particularly effective when taken with the slaw and its fantastic countervailing acidity.


crocus pocus [$13.00] | plymouth gin, cocchi americano, saffron, lemon
The last cocktail was a fairly lightweight one as well, with the bittersweet nuances of the Cocchi playing well with the aromatic saffron while the lemon gave things just enough tartness.


Peanut butter spring roll [$10.00] | caramelized banana, scotch butter
Time for dessert. Our first was my favorite of the threesome, really doing a great job meshing peanut butter with banana in a bevy of textures.


Chocolate posset [$10.00] | orange, greek yoghurt, cocoa nibs
The posset also worked it out, the hefty presentation of chocolate serving as a foil to the Creamsicle-esque combo of yogurt and orange.


Rhubarb & custard [$10.00] | vanilla soufflé glace, rhubarb compote, sorbet, jaquant, white chocolate crémeux
Rhubarb was the star here, its jammy, tart flavors offset by the crémeux and airy meringues while the soufflé cake grounded the dessert.

Birch looks to be a pretty worthy successor to Waterloo & City, giving us a taste of Collins' more elegant culinary stylings while still preserving the Chef's straightforward, relaxed ethos. It's a nice change of pace from what we were all used to at the old spot. Speaking of the gastropub, it may yet rise again, but in the meantime, Collins is working on a smaller, more casual project on Sawtelle, and has signed on as Exec Chef at Culver City's The Corner Door, which will be run on a day-to-day basis by his longtime CdC Ali Haji. That might be worth checking out as well.

King Hua (Alhambra, CA)

May 21, 2015, 12:00 pm

≫ Next: Las Molenderas (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Birch (Los Angeles, CA)

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King Hua Restaurant
2000 W Main St, Alhambra, CA 91801
626.282.8833
www.kinghuarestaurant.com
Sun 03/22/2015, 12:00p-02:40p





When talking about the top dim sum in LA, one can't deny that three places have firmly established themselves at the top of the heap: Sea Harbour, Elite, and King Hua, the subject of this post. Opened in April 2008 by Ming "Philip" Cai, the appeal here initially was that this place had poached the original dim sum chef from Sea Harbour. I've no idea if said chef is still around, but even in his absence, the place is still chugging along, serving the cart-less style of dim sum that's all the rage these days.


King Hua occupies the former digs of Ritz Garden, Sea Star, and New World. Most of the restaurant is comprised of the large main dining room, which is nicer than most and comes with the requisite seafood tanks along one side. There are also private rooms, but they're on the pricey side; we were quoted a minimum spend of $500 for 12 people, a tall order for dim sum.


As for King Hua's menu, you get your classics, along with some more interesting, second-wave items and plenty of non-dim sum dishes too. Of course, for dinner there's your traditional, seafood-centric Cantonese carte, as well as those elaborate tasting menu affairs, priced per table with numbers ending in "8." The beverage list, unsurprisingly, leaves much to be desired. Corkage, thankfully, is offered here. The price of said corkage, however, will probably vary depending on who tallies the bill and how much he or she cares. We were charged a mere $10 for all five of our bottles. Click for larger versions.


The picture menu can come in handy as well. Click for larger versions.


Speaking of bottles, we got going with some bubbly, the 2010 Domaine Carneros Brut Rosé. Loads of juicy strawberry on the nose here, and on the palate, think dry, a bit yeasty, and easy-drinking. Quite refreshing overall.


#37 Baked BBQ Pork Bun (M) [$3.88]
Interestingly, though King Hua is indeed cartless, it still features servers walking around trying to ply you with various plates. As such, we started off with a few. The baked cha siu bao was a must-get of course, a prototypical rendition featuring sweet-n-savory pork stuffed in light, yet substantial buns. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


I'm not exactly sure what this second item was, as I couldn't locate it on the menu. We had a filling of salty, subtly sweet meat, encased in a glutinous, pan-fried outer layer. Quite good though. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


#28 Deep Fried Pork Dumpling (S) [$2.88]
One of my favorites, the haam seoi gaau were on point, salty and savory and first, but sweet on the finish, with a great balance of chewy and crispy textures.


#41 Deep Fried Taro Puff (M) [$3.88]
I also enjoyed the yutou jiao, a mishmash of sweet nuances and a lingering savoriness courtesy of the filling. Nice textures here too. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


Roast Duck and Fried Tofu
Here was my least favorite plate of the meal. The tofu I found bland, while the duck was fairly forgettable, too.


Moving on to beer, here was the 2012 Cascade Gose, a sour wheat beer spiced with sea salt and coriander. It was very good, probably the best gose I've had in fact, a refreshing, crisp ale with light notes of tart citrus and wheat accented by subtle hits of spice and salt.


#2 Shrimp Dumpling (L) [$4.88]
Har gow were pretty much spot on, with delicate wrappers hiding delightful bits of briny, snappy shrimp.


#1 Shrimp & Pork Dumpling (L) [$4.88]
Shaomai were also very good, with a lovely commixture of savory, saline flavors from the combo of pork and prawn. Nice spongy, springy texture too.


#6 Steamed Spare Ribs in Black Bean Sauce (M) [$3.88]
The paigu were well-textured, though a bit fattier than I'd prefer, with a palpable depth from the black bean.


#7 Chicken Feet in Black Bean Sauce & Peanut (M) [$3.88]
I'm usually not a fan of fung zau, but these were probably the best I've had. Texturally, they were a great combination of soft and crunchy, and taste-wise, they were virtually flawless as well.


#5 Beancurd Roll w/ Pork in Oyster Sauce (M) [$3.88]
I quite liked the xian zhu juan, which showed off a great potency from the oyster sauce. Nice texture on the tofu skin, too.


Our next beer was a doozy. The 2012 The Bruery Bourbon Barrel Aged 5 Golden Rings was a Belgian-style golden ale brewed with pineapple juice, cinnamon, allspice, and ginger, then aged in bourbon barrels. The result was a heady, hefty beer, with big notes of holiday spice and sweet-sour pineapple leading to massive barrel characteristics of wood, smoke, and bourbon.


#25 Pan-Fried Dikon Cake (M) [$3.88]
Loubo gao is one of my go-to dishes, and this was a commendable preparation: creamy, with a slight char, and loaded with the umami-laced goodness of xiami.


#86 Chicken Knee w/ Spicy Salt & Pepper (C) [$7.88]
Chicken knee is a new one for me. Bits of the deep-fried cartilage came out crunchy and oddly satisfying, the abundance of garlic, spice and salt here working swimmingly with the bird. A fun variation of popcorn chicken.


#90 Poached Chinese Broccoli (C) [$7.88]
Wanting to get some greenery in the mix here, we ordered up some delightfully bitter, crunchy kai lan.


#36 King Hua Baked Chicken Salad Bun (M) [$3.88]
The chicken salad bun was unlike any chicken salad I've had, but was enjoyable nonetheless, with a savory filling enrobed in layers of sweet, flaky pastry.


#12 Steamed Juicy Pork Dumplings (M) [$3.88]
The ubiquitous xiaolongbao were merely serviceable here, coming out appropriately juicy, though lacking somewhat in depth.


Next up was some cider, the 2015 Reverend Nat's Sacrilege Sour Cherry, made with tart cherry and Lactobacillus blended in with the standard apple. I really enjoyed this, finding it pleasingly tart, with juicy notes of cherry joined by a dry, subtly funky quality.


#16 Steamed Shrimp & Pea Tips Dumplings (L) [$4.88]
Apparently, these dumplings, stuffed with shrimp and snow pea shoots then garnished with the trifecta of wolfberry-corn-pea, represent King Hua's signature dim sum item, and they did not disappoint. I was a big fan of the sharp, focused brine of the shrimp, and how that was evened out by all the light, bright nuances present.


#11 Sticky Rice Wrapped w/Lotus Leaf (L) [$4.88]
Nuomi ji was a winner as well, with its comfortingly savory flavors pairing beautifully with the well-textured sticky rice. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


#51 Steamed Rice Noodle w/ Shrimp (L) [$4.88]
Xia chang were a bit too heavy on the actual rice noodle, though I thoroughly enjoyed the snappy, saline shrimp hidden within.


#15 Steamed BBQ Pork Bun (M) [$3.88]
The steamed char siu baau delivered, giving us classic BBQ flavors all wrapped up in substantial, yet finespun buns.


#69 King Hua Egg Custard (M) [$3.88]
Daan taat were sweet and flaky, just as you'd expect, though I would've liked some caramelization on the top there (Portuguese style).


The Perennial Saison De Lis was our final tipple, a Belgian-style golden ale brewed with chamomile flowers. I found this crisp and refreshing, with a light funk, light floral qualities, and a grainy, yeasty backbone.


#123 Rice Noodles Dry Stir Fried w/ Chicken [$13.80]
A plate of stir-fried noodles was standard but satisfying, with a lovely crispness to the actual mein and a topping of tender, savory chicken. Nice counterpoint from the veggies, too.


#17 Steamed Shrimp & Scallop Dumpling (SP) [$6.28]
Dumplings featuring both scallop and shrimp were delicious, well-textured and with the ocean-y essence of the seafood really emphasized.


#10 Steamed Beef Tripe in Special Sauce (L) [$4.88]
Tripe arrived suitably tender, with an earthy, almost gamy flavor profile.


#71 Deep Fried Sesame Ball w/ Red Bean Paste (S) [$2.88]
Dessert brought out jin deui, which had sugary red bean interiors set against some nutty, even smoky flavors.


#72 Wolf Berry Jello (M) [$3.88]
Last up was the goji berry jello, which conveyed almost tea-like aromatics commingled with the sweetness of the fruit.

Since debuting back in '08, King Hua's made a name for itself as one of the top players in the dim sum game here in Los Angeles. That reputation seems warranted, as the food here was by and large very strong, with a few real standout dishes to boot. Another place to add to your dim sum itinerary for sure.

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Following lunch, we wandered over to Fosselman's down the street, which I'd actually never visited before. They've been around since 1919, and this store dates from 1941 (it looks the part).


Flavors sampled were Coconut Pineapple / Lychee and Espresso Coffee, both of which were pretty enjoyable.


The place seems to appeal to both young and old, which perhaps can't be said for all the new-wave ice cream shops that have popped up in recent years.

Las Molenderas (Los Angeles, CA)

May 25, 2015, 5:30 pm

≫ Next: Bucato (Culver City, CA)

≪ Previous: King Hua (Alhambra, CA)

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Las Molenderas Restaurant
2635 Whittier Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90023
323.269.2812
www.lasmolenderas.com
Sat 04/04/2015, 05:30p-07:00p



From La Estrella, we headed over to mole specialist Las Molenderas, a relative newcomer to the Boyle Heights dining scene. Named after the women who grind maize for use in tortillas, the restaurant opened in July last year and is the work of Marisol Feregrino (née Morales) and her parents Lucio and Estela.


Inside, it's a small, brightly-color affair, with a few tables out front and the kitchen taking up most of the building.


Las Molenderas' menu is appropriately mole-heavy, though they do have plenty of non-mole dishes as well. Be sure to order off the chalkboard menu too. Click for larger versions.


Feregrino was out front working the room, and quickly brought us some moles to sample. First up was the 20-ingredient Mole Poblano, a sweet, smoky, spicy, intensely flavored sauce with a forceful chocolate-y presence. Next to it was the Mole al Chipotle, which was even more robust, with a more palpable heat and a stronger smoke character.


The moles were soon followed by two house pipianes. Pipián Rojo was the spicier, more piquant of the duo, while the Pipián Verde was tangier, lighter, with a stronger nuttiness to it. Lovely when taken with those miniature homemade tortillas.


We BYOB'd it here, and I started things off with the 2014 The Bruery Bois Fumé, a bourbon barrel-aged blend of the brewery's Anniversary series English-style old ale and Smoking Wood, an imperial smoked rye porter. The result was a smoky, sweet, tangy beer with massive amounts of dark fruit that stood up to the mole.


Taco de Mole [$1.69]
Our first course was a straightforward chicken taco featuring Mole al Chipotle, which showcased the mole's spicy depth against the backdrop of the bird.


Mole Fries [$3.99]
Here, Mole Poblano made for a fitting French fry topping, giving off sweet and savory and spicy nuances to pair with the cheese. The dish was able to convey the inherent qualities of the mole without getting too trashy.


By far the sweetest beer of the day, the 2015 Founders Blushing Monk was a Belgian-style ale brewed with raspberries, recently released in limited quantities in March after a four-year hiatus (it was bottled in 2011 as Founders' first Backstage Series beer and also back in 2007). Super, super jammy and sugary on the nose, with more fruit, jam, and preserves on the palate. Perhaps the most fruit-forward beer that I'd ever tasted.


Enchiladas de Mole con Pollo [$7.99]
Enchiladas, meanwhile, were very good, with the amalgam of tortilla and chicken superbly complemented by the two types of pipián present.



Along with the enchiladas came rice and beans, which were both also on point.


An impromptu cocktail commingled the Blushing Monk above with Perrier Pink Grapefruit and Las Moldenderas' own Chia Lemonade [$1.79]. It was a great combo actually, with the lemonade adding a countervailing tartness to the beer, and the Perrier an effervescence to the body.


Chilaquiles con Pipián Verde [$6.99]
We were in a breakfast-y mood, and Feregrino was gracious enough to fire up some chilaquiles, which were no doubt some of the best I've had. I loved the lightness that the Pipián Verde brought to the totopos, while the runny eggs just added a fantastic, enveloping luxuriousness to the dish.


Nachos con Mole, Quezo y Pollo [$5.99]
We ended with the mole nachos, dressed with both poblano and chipotle varieties. I liked these even better than the fries, with the meaty chunks of chicken, crunchy chips, and mozzarella serving as a great stage on which the two moles could really sing.


Our final beer was certainly apropos, the 2015 New Belgium Lips of Faith Cocoa Mole, brewed with chocolate, cinnamon, and chilies (ancho, guajillo, chipotle). This was a great blend of sweet and spicy over a base of classic porter-y goodness, one that really did recall the essence of mole.

We had a lovely time at Las Molenderas. The moles and pipianes were pretty much spot on, and it was fun see them used in so many ways. A worthwhile new addition to the East LA scene.

Bucato (Culver City, CA)

May 27, 2015, 5:30 pm

≫ Next: El Sarape (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Las Molenderas (Los Angeles, CA)

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Bucato Restaurant
3280 Helms Ave, Culver City, CA 90034
310.876.0286
www.bucato.la
Sat 04/18/2015, 05:30p-08:00p



[Update: Since the writing of this report, Evan Funke has resigned from his post at Bucato and is leaving Los Angeles for Italy, ostensibly due to "unreconcileable [sic] differences" with partner Ed Keebler. His final night was May 20th, and longtime Exec Sous Chef Colin Akiyama (Mori Sushi, Providence) has already stepped up as a replacement. It remains to be seen how Thoroughbred will be affected.]



The last time we saw Evan Funke was March 2011, when he was heading up the kitchen over at Rustic Canyon. He also opened Milo & Olive that November, but left both restaurants at the end of February 2012, replaced by Jeremy Strubel and later Jeremy Fox at Rustic, and Walter Manzke and Jason Mattick at Milo. In July, Funke announced plans to take over the building previously home to Beacon, the longstanding Asian fusion eatery from Kazuto Matsusaka and Vicki Fan (the two are now at Superba Food + Bread) that was supposed to become Michael Cardenas and Perfecto Rocher's Taberna Arros y Vi.

In December 2012, the Chef launched his Porchetta Truck, which was supposed to serve as a stopgap before Bucato's debut. The restaurant got caught up in construction though, and the truck ran until the end of February 2013, shortly after Funke cooked a one-night-only pop-up at Square One in Hollywood (the "this is not a pop-up" series). Things finally did come together though, and Bucato graced us on July 31st that year.


The focal point of Bucato's menu is rightfully the handmade pastas (made by Funke's longtime friend, pasta phenom, and sfoglino Kosaku Kawamura), which are joined here by a number of smaller plates and mains. To drink, you get a small wine list of Italian- and French-leaning varietals by Managing Partner Ed Keebler and a smattering of beer (both on tap and bottled). Corkage is offered at $15, limit 2. Click for larger versions.


Focaccia [$9.00] | rosemary, olive oil, sea salt
We began with the much bandied about focaccia, a prime presentation fluffy on the inside yet crusty, with a good balance between salt, herb, and olive oil.


Fried Cauliflower [$12.00] | 'sicilian style'
Cauliflower was a standout, coming out wonderfully crisp, yet still moist and tender, with a fantastic herbiness and spice to it.


Arancini [$9.00] | stracchino, parmigiano reggiano
Arancini were on point, their crisp, crunchy exteriors hiding the lusciousness of the two cheeses and the satisfyingly al dente bite of the rice.


Squash Blossoms [$12.00] | goat cheese, mint
The squash blossoms were among the largest examples that I've had, and also some of the best, with the tangy, creamy goat cheese and mint combo working swimmingly against the bright, green nuances of the stalks.


Spicy Pork Meatballs [$15.00] | roasted tomato, parmigiano reggiano, wild arugula
Meatballs signaled the end of our starters, and were another favorite of ours--beautifully textured, with a fantastic herbiness and porkiness to them cut by the tang of tomato sauce.


Spaghetti alla Chitarra [$15.00] | cacio e pepe
Our first plate of pasta, the spaghetti arrived dressed simply with cacio e pepe, a straightforward yet deeply gratifying dish that really highlighted the punch of the pepper, all while cheese added the requisite richness to things.


Macheroni di Busa [$18.00] | rabbit ragu, snap peas, wild fennel, pecorino stagionato
Rabbit was put to good use, arriving tender and teeming with all the heady savors that you'd expect, a pretty much perfect complement to the well-textured pasta. Wonderful crunch from what I believe were breadcrumbs, too, though I didn't get much from the snap peas.


Squid Ink Gnocchetti [$20.00] | king crab, basil, bread crumbs
Gnocchetti were chewy little bites, a fitting base on which the briny essence of king crab could really shine.


Casonsei [$18.00] | ricotta, prosciutto di parma, sage, radicchio, brown butter, wild flower honey
We ended with the most interesting of the pastas, a stuffed example that deftly balanced contrasting notes of sweet and savory. We were especially fond of the restrained use of brown butter here.


Our second wine was the Caprari "Bollino Rosso" Lambrusco NV, Emilia-Romagna [$36], a delightfully easy-drinking sparkler that gave up juicy notes of dark red fruit intermixed with an offsetting spice. Lovely.


Rib Eye Cap [$35.00] | cipollini agrodolce, wild arugula
Getting into the larger plates now, the ribeye arrived with a fantastic bit of smokiness to it that really highlighted the inherent flavors of the steak. I was a fan of the zesty arugula here too, but the agrodolce I found overly sweet, as it tended to mask the beef somewhat.


Octopus [$21.00] | escarole, ceci beans, roasted tomato
The octopus was a must-get for us, and didn't disappoint. I got a really nice char and texture on the polpo, and the bitterness of the escarole worked flawlessly as a counterpoint. Superb textural element from the chickpeas to boot.


Sprouting Broccoli [$12.00] | garlic, pickled chilis, pecorino romano
Broccoli also delivered, arriving at the table crisp and astringent, the vegetable augmented by the aromatics of garlic and a sharp underpinning of spice while the Pecorino added hits of salt to the fray.


Calamari alla Piastra [$17.00] | capers, currants, pine nuts, chilies, basil, mint, parsley, lemon
Our last savory of the evening, the squid was a surprisingly light, refreshing course, with the springy cuts of calamari paired with bright, herbaceous, tangy notes and a hint of sweet heat.


Tiramisu [$9.00]
Our first dessert was the ubiquitous tiramisu. Bucato's was a worthwhile example, super airy and feathery almost, with a good balance between sugary and coffee nuances.


Chocolate Tart [$9.00]
On the opposite end of the spectrum, the flourless tart came out dense and heavy, with massive amounts of chocolate sweetness offset by the crema up top. Lovely texture from the sprinkles of rock sugar(?), too.


Gelato [$3.00/each]
We closed with a trio of housemade gelatos. Clockwise from top-right, we had: a prototypical Vanilla Bean; a wonderfully sweet, almond-y Marzipan (my favorite); and a particularly true-to-life Pistachio.

I'd been wanting to try this place out for nearly two years--ever since it opened--but the no-photo and no-phone policy kept me away until now. Enforcement of said policy was lax, at least on this evening; though I was discreet with my photos, my dining companions were openly using their phones with nary a peep from the wait staff. Rules aside, the food was good, quite good actually, seemingly uncomplicated plates that somehow still dazzled in their complexity, authenticity, and depth of flavor. I'm pretty sure that Bucato's got some of the strongest pasta in the City, and the rest of the cooking is right up there as well.

As for what's next, Funke is supposedly working on a second restaurant, also in Culver City. Named Thoroughbred, it's a modern, all-day take on the classic American diner, and is set to debut at the Platform at Hayden Tract later this year. I'll be looking out for sure.

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Following our meal, we moseyed on over to Father's Office next door. After drinking a couple of their beers on tap, we learned that the bar offers some off-menu selections as well and ordered a vintage bottle, the 2007 Russian River Supplication. A sour brown ale aged over a year in pinot noir barrels with sour cherries, the beer had benefitted nicely from its extended rest. There were some wonderful aromatics here, and taste-wise, we found a pointedly puckering, Brett-y, acidic character with a great oaky quality, all with an undercurrent of cherry that became more apparent toward the close. Delish.

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Our appetites reinvigorated, we headed over to Mexican mainstay Tito's Tacos.


Copious amounts of chips were provided to accompany the thin, watery, though somehow satisfying salsa.


Tito's Taco with Cheese [$2.70]
The signature taco was gratifying in that slutty sort of way, the combination of spiced, finely-ground meat, lettuce, and yellow cheese really hitting the spot, especially when generously doused with the aforementioned salsa.


Chicken Tamale [$3.50]
The tamale was better than expected, with the masa working fairly well with the chiles and chicken within. A dip in the smokier salsa on the side was definitely called for.


Rice [$1.60]
The rice was pretty palatable, and worked to temper some of the more potent tastes here.


Enchilada [$2.80]
Tito's enchilada wasn't quite as successful, coming out quite muddled flavor-wise.

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Finally, sa-cha brought us to Sweet Rose Creamery in Brentwood for their Coconut Lemongrass Cherimoya Sorbet and Blood Orange Sorbet with Crispy Almonds. Some refreshing, very true-to-life fruit flavors here, though I didn't feel that the nuts were necessary.

El Sarape (Los Angeles, CA)

May 31, 2015, 7:10 pm

≫ Next: Juniper & Ivy (San Diego, CA)

≪ Previous: Bucato (Culver City, CA)

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El Sarape Restaurant
2522 1st St, Los Angeles, CA 90033
323.415.0765
Sat 04/04/2015, 07:10p-09:00p





The final stop on our Boyle Heights crawl brought us to El Sarape. Named after the brightly-colored shawls of Mexico, the seafooder is the work of one Maria Benitez, who comes to us from the town of Tecuala in Nayarit.


Upon entering, you'll find a light, bright, beachy sort of affair, the kitchen as far as I can tell.


The actual seating area's out back, and recalls something that you might find in a Boyle Heights backyard. Note the tablecloths, which recall the restaurant's namesake blanket.


El Sarape's menu is seen on a large plastic sign overhanging the dining room. Click for a larger version.


BYOB was a must of course, and I commenced with the 2015 Upland Blueberry Lambic, a Belgian-inspired sour aged in oak for over a year with whole Huber Orchard berries. Think tart, funky, and acidic, with a slight fruit presence creeping in on the midpalate.


Complementary "chips" were served with a fish ceviche and a thin-but-bracing salsa verde.


Tacos Dorados de Pescado [$5.00]
We ordered the tacos dorados de camaron, but these came out for some reason (I'm not sure if they ran out, misheard me, or what). They were tasty enough, delightfully crispy with some brightness from the vegetables on top, though I would've liked more seasoning on the actual fish.


Next to drink up was the 2015 Modern Times Black House with Coconut and Cacao Nibs, a delicious blend of chocolate and coconut flavors over a base of roasty stout. The overall effect recalled a Mounds bar. Yum.


Ceviche Mixto [$12.00]
The mixed ceviche was nice, with lots of different tastes and textures going on, all set against the tartness of the marinade while the avocado lent a bit of lushness to the dish. The use of carrots is somewhat surprising, but apparently it's commonplace in the Chef's hometown.


The 2014 FiftyFifty Imperial Eclipse Stout - Heaven Hill Rittenhouse Rye was our final tipple, a stout brewed with honey and aged in oak rye whiskey barrels. Think classic notes of roasty malt, coffee, and molasses, with the sweet spice of the rye barrel coming through quite clearly.


Pescado Sarandeado [$23.00]
Finally, we experienced El Sarape's take on pescado zarandeado, a dish that most of us probably know from Coni'Seafood. This was a commendable rendition as well, with the fish arriving tender, moist, and flaky, its inherent brine amped up by some deeply spicy, savory flavors. Tasty, and a good match for all the veggies piled up top.


And for dessert: Hello Kitty head shortbread cookies.

I feel like we didn't give El Sarape a proper go, firstly because we were quite full by this point (we went to three restaurants prior to this: Mariscos Jalisco, La Estrella, Las Molenderas), and secondly because we probably didn't order enough (or order the rights things). There is promise here though.