Robert Earl's BBQ (Long Beach, CA)

January 13, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: n/naka (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

≪ Previous: Kinjiro (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Robert Earls Barbeque
703 E Artesia Blvd, Long Beach, CA 90805
562.726.1116
www.robertearlsbbq.com
Fri 12/12/2014, 08:00p-09:15p





One of LA's lesser known, but still top-notch barbecue places is Robert Earl's, a Texas-influenced joint that debuted in August 2013. Powered by a four-barrel smoker in the back, the restaurant is the work, unsurprisingly, of one Robert Earl, an LA native who grew up in nearby Carson (though his family has Southern roots). He learned to barbecue from his grandfather back in the day, and while working as a telecom tech, started an underground BBQ catering business from his Northtown Long Beach backyard. Earl stayed under the radar for over 20 years, but in summer 2012, debuted his cooking at the Greener Good Farmers Market, which eventually led to the permanent brick-and-mortar operation that we see today.



Customers place their orders in the window further from the entrance, and pick up their food from the other cubbyhole. The menu board looks slightly intimidating, but is really just composed of variations of your traditional meats and homemade sides (all vegetarian). Click for a larger version.


Food in hand, you then walk over to the adjoining dining room with its checkerboard-topped tables, recently revamped in July.


Given the limited beverage selection, we brought along some beers, and really, the BBQ calls for it. I got things going with something light, the 2014 Fremont Brewing Cowiche Canyon Organic Fresh Hop Ale. Made once a year, this was brewed with fresh Yakima Valley Citra and Simcoe hops and was pretty spectacular, with a super fresh, hoppy, tropical aroma and a super balanced taste profile that commingled bitterness with a great finish of grapefruit.


Three Meat Combo [$20.00]
Most diners will probably want to get some sort of combo, and here we went with a couple of the three-meat variety, the first featuring Brisket, BBQ Chicken, and Spare Ribs. It was a pretty good chunk of meat for $20, and you can't forget about the included sides either: Potato Salad and Coleslaw.


The brisket was more tender than most, and also appropriately juicy, with a satisfying beefy savor to it, though I would've liked a tad more smokiness in the mix.


Potato salad worked well enough, but it could've been creamier, with some more acidity and crunch.


Sour duties were handled by the New Glarus Thumbprint Oud Bruin. It wasn't too acerbic though, tasting tart-ish and fruity, with a backbone of malt and a bit of oakiness in there too. Classic and easy-drinking.


The barbeque chicken was a standout, one of the tastiest BBQ renditions of the bird I've had in fact, coming out super juicy, tender, and teeming with smoky goodness.



Accompaniments include a plate of (surprisingly hot) pickles & peppers, as well as those slices of white bread.


The 2014 Smog City Saber Toothed Squirrel was a new release from the brewery, and was quite a bit better than I expected. An American amber ale, this one smelled super hoppy and finished bitter, but I appreciated the maltiness on the palate to even things out.


Pork spare ribs were tasty: smoky and savory and not too sweet, with nice charring, which I appreciate. They were on point texturally as well, showing off a great interplay of fat and char. Along with the brisket, this was one of the meats that Chef Earl first started out with.


The slaw was to my liking, coming out creamy yet crunchy, with a peppery bite to it.



Sauces are available either slathered on the meat or on the side, and we obviously chose the latter option. Both spicy and mild versions are available, and I preferred the hot one, which conveyed a sort of sweet heat.


The lone IPA of the group was represented by the 2014 Surly Overrated West Coast IPA, which really did have that intense, hoppy, pine-y character that we're known for here in California. It was definitely more balanced, more nuanced in terms of taste though, and got even better after we let it breathe for a while.


Three Meat Combo [$20.00]
Our second three-item combo brought us Pulled Pork, Beef Links, Chicken Links, and sides of Mac and Cheese along with the requisite Greens.


The hulking mound of pulled pork turned out to be one of the better preparations I've had. The meat was impressively juicy, and well-textured, with a subtly sweet relish that worked with all the porky flavors present.


Collards were meltingly tender, with an earthy and bitter smack accented by a palpable tanginess.


The heftiest beer of the night was certainly the 2014 Central Waters Bourbon Barrel Barleywine Ale. An American style barley wine aged in oak bourbon casks, this one was appropriately heady on the nose, showing off intense, intoxicating aromas of toffee, vanilla, and booze. In terms of taste, you got big, smooth flavors of caramel, malt, oak, some dark fruit, and more vanilla. Delish.


Beef sausages were what you'd expect and what you'd want: spicy and satisfying, with a suitably snappy outer casing.


The macaroni & cheese was on the gratifying side, showing up particularly cheesy and utterly classic in its goodness.


The chicken links, on the other hand, were actually more sharply spiced, with a zesty, deeply flavored quality and a grittier, more rustic consistency to boot.


With the savories dispensed with, the kitchen sent out a complementary serving of their Golden Nuggets, a delectably creamy combination of warm cornbread and banana pudding. Yum.


To go with dessert, we opened the 2014 Hardywood Gingerbread Stout, a limited-edition, brewery-only release from November. The velvety smooth beer really did recall the essence of its namesake, offering up a comforting mix of holiday spice flavors, ginger, and vanilla over a base of roasty stout.

Robert Earl's claims to make BBQ so good, [it'll] make you slap mama. I'm not sure if it warrants elder abuse, but it was indeed very solid across the board, with the pulled pork, chicken, and links among our favorites. Sides were also commendable, as was dessert. Add to that the super friendly staff and clean, spacious dining area, and you've got a worthwhile barbeque experience indeed.

---

n/naka (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

January 17, 2015, 9:15 pm

≫ Next: Ramen Champ (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Robert Earl's BBQ (Long Beach, CA)

$

0

0

n/naka Restaurant
3455 Overland Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90034
310.836.6252
www.n-naka.com
Sat 12/13/2014, 09:15p-12:55a





I first encountered Niki Nakayama's food over four years ago at Inaka in Arcadia, when she was holding a series of pop-up dinners at her sister's cafe. It's been great to see the progression of the Chef's cooking over the years, and given that my last meal here at the Palms location was over two years ago (a farewell to foie gras dinner), I figured that it was time to give n/naka another go. Unsurprisingly, we opted for the $165, 13-course Modern Kaiseki menu tonight, though we forewent the $85 wine pairing in favor of some of our own bottles (corkage was set at $35 a pop).


Given the food, we opted for a horizontal of white Burgundy, and got things going with the 2011 Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot. It was the most restrained of our wines, tasting flinty and fresh with a good acidity and giving off a nose loaded with bright, citrusy, grassy notes.


1: Saki Zuke (a pairing of something common and something unique) | PETITE RADISH, WHITE STURGEON CAVIAR, TOPPED WITH 24K GOLD FLAKES AND TURNIP SOUP
Our dinner got off to a rousing start with the most unconventional, surprising course of the night. There was a lot going on here, but it worked together harmoniously, a blend of sweet, salty, and bitter flavors melded together by a hearty turnip soup. Great temperature contrast, too. Mouseover for a secondary photo.




2: Zensai (seasonal ingredients presented as an appetizer) | SMOKED SALMON WITH BLUEBERRY CREAM CHEESE / GRILLED BLACK COD, PERSIMMON WITH YUZU MISO / RENKON LOTUS ROOT MOCHI WITH SHRMP / FRESH OCTOPUS WITH WASABI
What followed was a foursome of little bites (left to right):

• Renkon Lotus Root Mochi with Shrimp: Sweet, fluffy shrimp encased in lotus. Superb with a touch of tangy, spicy aioli. I wanted to pop these guys all night long.
• Grilled Black Cod, Persimmon with Yuzu Miso: Classic black cod misoyaki goodness, a powerhouse of char and savor with a hit of tartness from the fruit.
• Fresh Octopus with Wasabi: Superb texture here, a blend of chewy and supple that really worked for me. Excellent wasabi heat to counteract the sweet brine of the nama tako.
• Smoked Salmon with Blueberry Cream Cheese: A nod to the traditional pairing of salmon and cream cheese, one that was surprisingly tasty, with the sweetness here working hand in hand with the herby accents present.

3: Modern Zukuri (modern interpretation of sashimi) | JAPANESE SCALLOP, HONEY TRUFFLE, PONZU AND WHITE TRUFFLE
Hokkaido scallop was well represented here, its trademark sweetness augmented by honey truffle and ponzu while shavings of white truffle added an intoxicatingly earthy element to bring it all together. Great textures, too, with the silky adductor pairing well with the crunchier bits present.


4: Owan (still water) | MAITAKE, ENOKI, SHIMEJI MUSHROOM SOUP WITH TOFU AND SHUNGIKU
An aromatic broth brought together three varieties of mushroom, making for a hot, heartwarming liquid that was made much more interesting by the inclusion of tofu.


Compared to the previous wine, the 2011 Val de Mer Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir was definitely on the more robust side, smelling of oxidative notes intertwined with fruit, with a palate that offered up more apple, citrus, and a palpable spiciness on the back end.


5: Otsukuri (traditional sashimi) | OH-TORO, TAI, HAMACHI, LOBSTER WITH APPLE, KUMAMOTO OYSTER
Our sashimi course brought out five different varieties. From left to right, we had:

• Ise Ebi: Wonderfully snappy Maine lobster, joined by a super sweet princess apple.
• Tai: Japanese sea bream, mild and subtle, with its flavors really brought out with a brush of soy.
• Hamachi: Also from Japan was the yellowtail, a firm, but not too fatty presentation that went seamlessly with a bit of wasabi.
• Otoro: Bluefin from Spain, this one was as fatty as you'd expect, with its richness set off by a dab of soy.
• Kaki: A Kumamoto from Washington, its classic salinity moderated by the zing of ponzu.

6: Mushimono (steamed dish) | ALASKAN KING CRAB LEG WITH ONSEN POACHED EGG, SOY SAUCE REDUCTION, KABOCHA GINGER SAUCE
We were then presented with one of the best steamed king crab legs I've had, which perfectly conveyed the sweet brine of the crustacean. It easily stood alone; however, its various accompaniments added an engulfing sweet-savory richness that elevated, but didn't overwhelm the crab.


7: Agemono (fried dish) | FRIED SEABASS SKEWERED, RENKON LOTUS CHIP, GINKO NUT WITH GINGER SOY SAUCE
Deep-fried sea bass was immensely satisfying, giving up a pretty incredible savoriness that was nicely set off by the ponzu-ginger. The lotus root, though, might've been even better thanks to its magnificent crunchiness--I wanted a whole bag of 'em.


Moving away from Chablis, here we had the 2011 Domaine Vincent & Sophie Morey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Truffière, perhaps the most balanced wine of the night. I found this racy, spicy, with a subtle oxidative character overarching a commingling of fruit and minerality.


8a: Shiizakana (not bound by tradition, chef's choice dish) | SPAGHETTINI WITH ABALONE, PICKLED COD ROE, BURGUNDY TRUFFLES
Nakayama's somewhat known for her pasta preparations, and the spaghettini here has become arguably her signature. That's for good reason though. It was pretty marvelous, a luxurious, creamy dish teeming with a rich brine from the mentaiko while abalone provided a great textural counterpoint to everything. I just wanted to keep eating this.


8b: Shiizakana (not bound by tradition, chef's choice dish) | ORECHIETTE WITH OYSTER SAUCE, YUZU ZEST
We were also presented with the orecchiette, and although it might've not reached the same lofty levels of the pasta above, it was still a damn good dish. I loved the potency of the oyster cream here, and how that just enveloped everything while the yuzu and herbs offered up a perfectly placed counterweight to it all.



9: Niku (meat course) | JAPAN MATSUZAKA WAGYU BEEF A5 IN ISHIYAKI GRILL
Well-marbled slices of Matsusaka beef were accompanied by a hot stone for their ishiyaki cooking method. Just a few seconds were enough for the thin, yet potent cuts of wagyu, though more time was needed for the garnishes of carrot, broccolini, cauliflower, Brussels sprout, and beet. The meat certainly stood alone, but four sauces were also provided: a thick 'n' sweet Japanese BBQ; a lush, spicy wasabi cream; sea salt-pepper-sesame oil, the sharpest, most focused of the group; and a bright, zesty ponzu-daikon oroshi.


10: Sunomono (vinegared salad) | HAMACHI BELLY, PONZU, DAIKON SPROUTS, YUZU SAKE
Yellowtail belly was just the right amount of fatty, its slightly sweet qualities a great match to the herby sprouts and brightness of the ponzu. Nice shot of yuzu sake there at the end, too, which definitely helped offset the heftiness of the fish.


At this point, we ordered up a few glasses of sake to share. Going from left to right:

• Miyasaka Yawaraka, Junmai, Nagano, Japan [$8]: Tropical, floral, and fruity, both on the nose and palate. The smoothest and easiest drinking of the quartet here.
• Tedorigawa Iki Na Ona, Junmai Daiginjo, Ishikawa, Japan [$14]: Very light in terms of aroma and fairly austere in terms of taste, with a spicy quality backed by an undercurrent of alcoholic tang.
• Senshin, Junmai Daiginjo, Niigata, Japan [$22]: Restrained bouquet on this one as well, but it showed off the most focused rice character and refinement.
• Ginkobai hannaya tou, Fukui, Japan [$12]: A flavored sake, this one had lots of sweet plum up front as well as a distinct cinnamon-y spice that creeps up on you. Surprisingly tasty.

11: Shokuji One (rice dish - sushi) | ENGAWA, OH-TORO, AJI, SHIMA AJI, UNI, ABURI TORO
And now, the much anticipated sushi course, split up into three distinct servings:

• Engawa: Wondrous texture on this one: chewy, but not overly so. Great hit of yuzukosho too, and I also appreciated the scoring on the surface of the fish here.
• Ohtoro: Melty and velvety, with its fattiness perfectly tempered by a touch of soy.
• Aji: A tasty preparation of mackerel that played the inherently strong flavors of the fish against the zestiness of ponzu and myoga.
• Shima Aji: Striped jack was thoroughly well-balanced, with its intrinsic savor highlighted by a dab of sour yuzu.
• Uni: Absolutely traditional and delicious, with the lushness of the urchin pairing beautifully with a hit of wasabi heat and the richness of its nori wrapper.
• Aburi Toro: A super savory, fabulously charred presentation of toro that I found utterly satisfying. Yum.

12: Shokuji Two (rice dish) | MISO SOUP WITH MUSSEL
The miso soup was spot on, conveying all the classic flavors and nuances that you'd want, but with the additional brine from the plumpest, meatiest mussel I think I'd ever encountered.


With the savories done with, the desserts commenced with this palate cleanser: a tangerine granité with cranberry. Think tangy and sweet and icy, a refreshing intermezzo and a great match with the tea below.


Matcha arrived frothy and gritty and bitter, a comforting, yet bracing sort of tea.


13: Mizumono (dessert) | LEMON BAKED ALASKA
Dessert proper came from Pastry Chef Leslie Bilderback, a take on the classic baked Alaska. Tart, fruity flavors of lemon worked swimmingly alongside the buttery crust here, and the zing of the chile jelly was a much appreciated accent piece as well.


We finished with the 2010 Keermont Fleurfontein, a limited-edition (just 580 bottles produced) dessert wine from the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. It was as delectable as I was hoping for, a rich, concentrated wine with bountiful flavors of apple and honey sweetness countered by a lively, noticeable acidity.


A complementary green tea cake was brought out for a dining companion's birthday.

I'm happy to report that Nakayama's cooking is better than it's ever been. Her food has certainly grown in both confidence and finesse since I've known her, and this latest experience made that abundantly clear. With its deft blend of the traditional and the modern, n/naka's a standout in the Japanese scene here in LA, so definitely put this place on your short list if you haven't already.

Ramen Champ (Los Angeles, CA)

January 18, 2015, 6:30 pm

≫ Next: Spago (Beverly Hills, CA) [4]

≪ Previous: n/naka (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

$

0

0

Ramen Champ at Far East Plaza
727 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.316.8595
www.ramenchamp.com
Sun 1/18/2015, 06:30p-08:00p





The Chinatown dining scene recently scored another hot debut in the form of Ramen Champ, the new noodle shop from Eggslut's Alvin Cailan. The restaurant soft-opened on January 16th, dishing out the Chef's take on traditional Japanese ramen, and I managed to make it over a day before the official launch on the 19th.

About the Chef: Cailan was raised in a religious Filipino household in Pico Rivera. His first job in the kitchen came at age 17, when he starting working as a dishwasher at a retreat house as a way to stay out of trouble. He eventually started cooking there, and after a year, became kitchen manager. After finishing high school, Cailan studied business at a Cal State, and following graduation, secured a job at a construction firm. Due to some shady dealings at said firm, he was let go from the company with two years' severance pay, which he then used to finance a culinary degree at the Oregon Culinary Institute. During his tenure there, he staged at a number of places: Clyde Common, Castagna (six months under Matthew Lightner), and Olympic Provisions in Portland; Bouchon (three months) and The French Laundry (one week) in Napa; and Spago and Hatfield's in Los Angeles. After completing his degree at OCI in 2010, Cailan became chef de partie at Portland's Ten 01 under Michael Hanaghan, then returned to California to help open David LeFevre's acclaimed MB Post in 2011.

Later that year, he teamed up with Jeff Vales to launch the Eggslut Truck, focusing on egg-centric breakfast dishes. The two set up shop at Handsome and Commissary and became a near-instant success. In 2013, Cailan began looking for a spot to start a permanent restaurant, and initially planned on the Arts District. After those options fell through, he was approached by Grand Central Market and signed on in July, taking over the old La Salsa stand on Broadway. Eggslut opened in November, and has consistently been the busiest business in GCM. Given the success of the first restaurant, it was inevitable that Cailan would want to expand. As such, it was announced that Eggslut Ramen would soon debut at Grand Central. However, disagreement with GCM's owners ultimately resulted in the concept being relocated to Chinatown's Far East Plaza, the home of Roy Choi's Chego. Cailan has partnered up with Nathan Asamoto (Men Oh Tokushima Ramen) and Johnny Lee (Eggslut, Spirit House, Sticky Rice, Flying Pig Truck, Rivera), as well as Michael Sudjati, and the team was able to turn around the space in surprisingly little time for a January debut.


In true ramen-ya fashion, Ramen Champ's a small, cozy spot, with room for 22 diners at counter-style seats (it takes the place of an old Chinese bakery). Black-and-white murals are the work of New York's Mike Houston, and interestingly enough, the huge hood that dominates the kitchen actually came with the space.


The Ramen Champ menu is simple enough: three types of ramen, three rice bowls, and three sides, washed down by a selection of soft drinks. Click for larger versions.


Condiments included sherry vinegar, garlic oil, sriracha oil, and housemade shichimi togarashi. You're encouraged to apply as you see fit.


Fried Chicken Karaage [$5.50] | Crispy bites of our house made chicken belly, seasoned and fried till golden brown and delicious. Served with spicy mayo.
You can't really go wrong with fried chicken, and Ramen Champ's Jidori karaage was no exception, with the bird coming out tender, juicy, and teeming with savory soy goodness. Excellent alone, and great with a dab of the included spicy mayo, too.


Chashu Rice Bowl [$4.50] | Slow roasted pork belly and seasoned rice, garnished with scallion ribbons and toasted sesame.
Fatty cuts of sous vide'd chashu pork were appetizing, with classic flavors of sweet, savory, piggy goodness satisfying in a comfy sort of way. Great use of the sesame as a counterpoint to boot.


Tonkotsu [$12.99] | A rich, creamy and complex soup, served with noodles, topped with slices of slow cooked chashu, seasoned egg, scallion ribbons and garnished with crisp radish, toasted sesame seeds and black garlic oil.
Ramen Champ's tonkotsu made a nice showing for itself, with the dish's 20-hour bone broth providing for a thick, hearty, unabashedly porcine slurping experience. Slices of the chashu above further enhanced the porky nature of the soup, all while mayu (black garlic oil) provided additional complexity and the veggies a much appreciated lightness. Noodle-wise, we have a proprietary blend made by a producer in Gardena that was acceptably springy, with just a bit of chew.


Some beers to go with the food. First up was the 2014 Cigar City Marshal Zhukov's Imperial Stout, named after legendary World War II general Georgy Zhukov. It was, quite simply, one of the finest non-barrel-aged stouts I've tasted, a super smooth powerhouse of dark fruit up front leading to chocolate, toffee, and coffee notes over a backbone of roasty goodness. For something completely different, the Southampton Cuvee Des Fleurs was a saison brewed with rose water and a variety of flowers. Think super floral and slightly sweet, overarched by a subtle oxidative character and not much farmhouse funk. I really would've liked more carbonation here though, as the beer was almost completely flat.


Tako Tots [$5.50] | Crispy potato fritters with octopus and salted cod, topped with house takoyaki sauce and spicy mayo. Garnished with chives, katsuobushi and aonori-ko.
It was fun to try out Cailan's take on takoyaki. This may look like the traditional dish, but was actually comprised of the standard octopus with the addition of salt cod and mashed potatoes. This made for a somewhat brandade de morue-esque eating experience, but with a clear base of old school tako character.


Chicken Belly Rice Bowl [$4.50] | Pan seared chicken belly and seasoned rice, garnished with scallion ribbons and toasted sesame.
I rather enjoyed the chicken belly (which I believe is actually thigh) too, which had some deep, Japanese-y flavors to it that paired superbly with the zesty scallions up top. Great over the rice too, natch.


Chicken Shio [$12.99] | Our version of a classic chicken noodle soup, full bodied broth, curly ramen noodles, topped with slices of slow cooked chicken belly, seasoned egg, carrots and scallion ribbons. Garnished with crisp radish, toasted sesame seeds and schmaltz.
Unsurprisingly, the chicken ramen wasn't quite as potent as the tonkotsu above, but still had its own charms. Again, the meat was spot on, with its flavors amplified by the schmaltz-enriched broth while the negi up top contributed a counterbalancing astringency to the mix. Noodles, meanwhile, were curly and slightly less springy, while the runny soft boiled ajitama egg was excellent, which I guess is to be expected from the guy behind Eggslut.


The 2014 Twisted Pine Bishop's Elbow was made to commemorate the brewery's 18th anniversary. I wasn't particularly enamored with it, finding lots of caramel-y malt joined by just a touch of bitterness toward the midpalate and a slight metallic tinge on the finish--really not too much to this. The 2014 The Bruery Bois Fumé--a blend of barrel-aged old ale and smoked rye porter--was much more interesting. You got loads upon loads of sweet, dark fruit and chocolate flavors initially, which then led seamlessly to a dry, lingering close redolent of smoke and peat.


Seasonal Mushrooms [$5.00] | Battered and deep fried hon shimeji mushrooms, served with roasted garlic shoyu aioli and garnished with crispy shiso leaves.
Hon-shimeji came deep-fried, making for a rather addictive appetizer, with the earthy flavors of the mushroom amplified by the umami-rich shoyu aioli. As the chefs have alluded to, you can almost think of this as an agaricalic version of the Bloomin' Onion.


Vegetable Curry Rice Bowl [$5.00] | House made curry roux braised with fingerling potatoes and carrots, served with seasoned rice and garnished with celery leaves and crispy chickpeas. Vegan
A veggie kare had all the classically dark, spicy, aromatic notes that you'd expect, but texturally, it seemed a bit off. I would've liked to have seem some heartier vegetables included here as well. That being said, the curry still did make for a suitable topping for the rice here, and the crunch of the garbanzos up top was a pleasant surprise.


Shiitake Shio [$10.99] | An aromatic consommé made with shiitake mushrooms and kombu dashi, seasoned with shio kaeshi, served with curly noodles, roasted seasonal mushrooms, scallion ribbons, seasoned egg and garnished with crisp radish, toasted sesame and garlic oil. Vegetarian
Last up was the vegetarian ramen, which I found nearly as gratifying as the meat-containing versions. The key was the broth, which had some deep, heady flavors courtesy of the shiitake and linked up swimmingly with the hefty chunks of mushroom present, as well as the toasty sesame in particular. And again, that scallion added a great touch of levity to the mix.


At this point, we departed and finished off the remaining beers outside. The 2014 The Bruery Sourrento was a new release from the brewery, a sour blonde aged in oak with lemon zest and vanilla beans, ostensibly inspired by Limoncello liqueur. I'd never had anything quite like it before. I got loads of tart, puckering lemon up front, which then quickly transitioned to a forceful, lingering vanilla sugariness, the whole effect reminiscent of a lemon meringue pie. The 2014 Ironfire Boot Hill Killer, meanwhile, was a bourbon and rye whiskey barrel-aged coffee stout. Lots of malt, chocolate, and smoke on this one, with the spiciness of the rye barrel really taking center stage, the whole thing underscored by a hint of coffee bitterness. Last up was the 2011 AleSmith Decadence Maple Smoked Barleywine, which had a malty sweetness enhanced by the sugariness of Vermont maple syrup, but with a Rauchbier-esque smokiness enveloping everything. I wasn't a huge fan of this one, but then again, I'm not big on smoked beers period.

I wasn't sure what to expect going into this, especially since the place was still in soft-opening/friends-and-family mode, but we left Ramen Champ pretty content. The ramen itself was satisfying, especially with regard to the meat, and the combination of the noodles and the broth worked for me (though with the caveat that I'm not much of a ramen fiend in general). The bowls and sides delivered for the most part as well, so overall, this looks to be another good showing for Cailan and company.

Spago (Beverly Hills, CA) [4]

January 25, 2015, 7:15 pm

≫ Next: JiRaffe (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: Ramen Champ (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Spago Restaurant
176 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.385.0880
www.wolfgangpuck.com/restaurants/fine-dining/3635
Tue 12/22/2014, 07:15p-10:40p




As has become somewhat of a tradition, my friend Eric hosted his annual holiday dinner recently, and this year's feast took place at one of our City's most iconic restaurants, Spago. We booked their "Private Dining Room #1" (my first time doing a PDR at Spago) for 15 people and enjoyed the California Tasting Menu, priced at $145 plus $75 for wine. Click for a larger version.


Our amuse came in the form of a maple macaron with bacon and egg yolk jam. Great, salty, porky bacon flavor here finishing with a lingering sweetness, though I could've used a lighter, more delicate texture on the actual biscuits.


1: Sterling Farm's White Sturgeon Caviar | "Sunnyside Up Egg," Rye Crisp, Potato Chip Espuma
The first proper course brought out a masterful, fanciful presentation of caviar. The piercing saltiness of the roe paired perfectly with the egg yolk jam and crispy rye, but the crux of the dish was that espuma, which had a Ruffles-like goodness and savoriness to it that really brought it all together. Creamy and luxurious and a great start to things.


2: Six Hour Braised Abalone, Diver Scallop, Sardine Screen, Tofu "Cloud" | Micro Shiso, Baby Chives
Three types of seafood--yellowtail, abalone, scallop--resulted in a multifaceted brine and a contrast of textures, their inherent salinity balanced by the silky globules of tofu present. The best part though? That salty, crunchy, umami-laced sardine chip, which reminded me of the dried fish snacks of my childhood.


Breads--baguette, sesame, olive, lavash, cheddar walnut--were superb, and came accompanied by heady seaweed and delicate Wisconsin butters.


3: Dungeness Crab Salad, Marbled Kelp Chips | Citrus-Mustard Dressing, Chili "Caviar," Cilantro
Dungness was delightful, beautifully textured and oh-so sweet, deftly perked up by a prick of yuzukosho, a dash of dashi, and the herby zing of cilantro. Loved the savoriness of those crunchy kelp chips, too.


4: Slow Roasted Monkfish | Maine Lobster, Baby Leek Puree, Sauce Américaine
Following was quite possibly the best monkfish I've had. Meaty and dense and slightly spongy to the bite, the fish was perfectly cooked, its comforting flavors meshing well with the Brussels and leeks while the sauce Américaine added a bisque-like richness to the dish. Wonderful aromatics here as well.


5: Hand Made Agnolotti | Italian Chestnut, Parmigiano Reggiano
It's seemingly hard to escape from a meal at Spago without getting served some sort of housemade agnolotti, and tonight's version featured the seasonally apropos chestnut. Sweet, nutty, and with a hit of salt from the Parm, this was a homey, holiday-tasting dish.


A trio of guineafowl, presented tableside prior to carving for our next course.


6: Roasted California Guinea Hen, "Pintade au Chou" | Braised Savoy Cabbage, Pistachio Crisp, Orange Zest
Said hen was served in both breast and leg portions. On the right was breast, flavorful and tender, with a particularly enjoyable skin. The dark meat was prepared confit and was expectedly deeper, richer in flavor, and worked swimmingly with the side of bitter, braised cabbage.


One of my dining companions was wooed by the age of the Ladyburn 41 Year Old Scotch Whisky and decided to order a glass, at a cost of something like $360 (thankfully I wasn't paying). The whisky came from a long-dormant distillery, which operated only from 1966 to 1975. I don't have a particularly refined palate for Scotch, but did enjoy this, finding the liquid fruity, smooth, yet understated on the palate, with a heady, spicy, woody nose.


The tableside presentation of the lamb leg for our final savory course.


7: Grilled Sonoma Lamb Leg | Shepherd's Pie with Dry Cherries, Radishes and Kale
Slices of the leg were thus plated, their savory, yet restrained ovine goodness smartly balanced against the crisp bitterness of radish. I appreciated the inclusion of a shepherd's pie here as well, a cozy sort of side dish.


8: Persimmon Cake | Caramelized Fuyu Persimmon, Tangerine Butter Milk Sherbet
In our first dessert, persimmon was nicely presented, its relatively mild flavors amped up by a palpable sweet spice while the citrusy sherbet provided an appropriately tangy counterpoint.


Some at the table opted for more brown liquor, such as the Michter's 20 Year Old Single Barrel Bourbon Whiskey. One of only 212 bottles produced, this one had lots of fruit for me, along with some buttery, nutty nuances all in a smooth, surprisingly easy-drinking package. The 1989 Jura Signatory Heavily Peated Scotch Whisky [$60], meanwhile, was even rarer, with only 141 examples bottled. I got loads of vanilla here, but less peatiness than I'd anticipated. Lots of spice and wood on the palate, and very viscous to boot.


9: Dark Chocolate Ganache Pavé | Blood Oranges, Tangerine Sorbet, Chocolate Sablée
Lastly, the essential chocolate dessert delivered as well, giving up rich, classic chocolate flavors tempered by the zestiness of citrus. Good textures on the plate as well, and I didn't mind the banana here, either.

Another solid showing from Spago. I do like the lighter, more modern style that the restaurant's been espousing since its remodel, and I certainly appreciated the additional coddling of being seated in the private dining room. Despite being over 30 years old, the place is still somehow relevant, so it'll be curious to see for how much longer. Definitely worth a visit for any Angeleno who hasn't already been.

JiRaffe (Santa Monica, CA)

January 29, 2015, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Genwa (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Spago (Beverly Hills, CA) [4]

$

0

0

JiRaffe Restaurant
502 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.917.6671
www.jirafferestaurant.com
Fri 12/19/2014, 07:30p-10:20p





A lot of restaurants have been announcing their closures as of late, and one of the most longstanding has certainly got to be JiRaffe, Raphael Lunetta's Cal-French eatery that opened back in 1996. I'd actually never been to the place before, so I made it a point to visit before the final service on Valentine's Day.

About the Chef: Lunetta was born and raised in the Los Angeles area, attending Washington Elementary and later Santa Monica High. An appreciation for food was instilled in him at a young age, especially from his travels to southern France to visit his aunt. His primary passion, though, was surfing, which he started in elementary school along with friend and fellow chef Josiah Citrin (they met in fourth grade). Lunetta began competing in the sport in junior high, and began his first restaurant job as a busboy in eighth grade, both to support his surfing habit and his eating habit. Following high school graduation, he moved to Hawaii to surf professionally, sponsored by O'Neill, while Citrin left to cook in France. He would visit his friend often though, and they traveled throughout Europe, surfing and eating.

In 1987, Lunetta decided to put surfing on hold, stay in Europe, and work at restaurants. After a couple years, he returned to Santa Monica and got a job at Bruce Marder and Marvin Zeidler's Broadway Deli, then went to Patina, where Citrin was cooking. In 1993, the duo went on to open Capri in Venice (the site of Wolf in Sheep's Clothing and the current Salt Air). From there, they helped debut Alan Jackson's (Lemonade) eponymous Jackson's in West Hollywood as well as his Jackson's Farm in Beverly Hills (now The Farm of Beverly Hills, where Ben Ford worked early on). After a while, Lunetta and Citrin got the itch to start the restaurant that they'd always wanted to have together, and thus left Jackson's side to work on JiRaffe, which debuted on April 11, 1996.

The place was well received, and the two were named one of Food & Wine's "Best New Chefs" the following year. However, in February 1999, Citrin sold his stake in JiRaffe to his partner and left to launch Melisse. The two would team up five years later, when they opened Lemon Moon, a breakfast and lunch spot that's perhaps best known for hosting LudoBites 8.0. Since then, Lunetta served as a guest judge on Season 2 of Top Chef (when Ilan Hall beat out Marcel Vigneron) in October 2006, consulted for 41 Ocean (replacing Chris Crary) in April 2013, and fought Neal Fraser on Knife Fight last November.


Inside, things are about what you'd expect given the place's vintage. Lots of browns, though it is sorta cozy.


Separated simply into starters and mains, the JiRaffe menu's definitely got an old school, rustic French-inspired Californian thing going on, which is probably what's kept the place afloat for so long. To drink, you get a circa 2002 cocktail list, a smattering of beers, and a small array of wine. Click for larger versions.


We commenced with JiRaffe's signature amuse: a mushroom cappucino soup with Pecorino(?) foam. It was a hot, comforting beginning, with the earthy tangy of the mushrooms taking on an almost truffle-y richness while the cheese added a bit of salt to the shot.


Bread service wasn't anything to write home about.


Troy's Tangerine Martini [$14.00] | Grey Goose Vodka, Splash of Meyer lemon, slice of serrano chili
Spiced Cucumber Margarita [$14.50] | Don Julio Blanco, fresh lime juice, muddled cucumber & jalapeno
Time to go with a couple of the cocktails. Troy's Tangerine Martini really did convey the bright, juicy essence of the fruit in a very apparent manner initially, though the back end was all about the booziness of vodka; I didn't get much from the serrano at all. The Spiced Cucumber Margarita, meanwhile, was a fairly light, smooth, "round" concoction, with airy flavors of lime and cucumber gliding over a base of tequila.


Scallop [$12.00] | tomato, meyer lemon, parsley
A singular scallop came out well-caramelized and well textured, showing off a tasty bit of brine that paired well with the herby nuances in the dish. The lemon was a touch strong at times, though, and needed to be turned down a notch.


Duck Confit [$20.00] | haricot vert, persimmon, shaved almonds
I'm generally a fan of duck confit, but this one fell short, as I found it on the dry, tough side sadly. Flavors were pretty good however, though the persimmon was unnecessary.


JiRaffe Classic Valdivia Farms Tomato Tart [$16.00] | burrata cheese, caramelized balsamic onions, basil, ratatouille, and olive sauces
A tomato tart was tangy and sweet, with the bright flavors of the tomato meshing with the burrata while the basil added a much appreciated aromatic component to the fray--very classic in essence. Great flakiness on the crust here, too.


Kumamoto Oysters [$16.00] | lime
Kumamotos displayed their signature salinity, set off by fun, citrusy bursts from what I believe was finger lime.


Inniskillin Icewine Martini [$16.00] | Inniskillin Vidal, Absolute vodka, Pom pomegranate reduction
Authentic Cuban Mojito [$14.00] | Mint-marinated Bacardi Rum with fresh crushed mint and key lime
The Inniskillin Icewine Martini was sort of a fun cocktail, with a commixture of vodka booziness and pomegranate tartness up front and a lingering finish redolent of sugary ice wine. Lastly, I made sure to order the Authentic Cuban Mojito, my O.G. drink from back in the day. This was actually a very solid rendition, with a tasty interplay of lime and mint flavors that really melded swimmingly with the rum.


Black Linguini [$21.00] | red deep sea crab, light spicy cherry tomato sauce
Next up was a trio of pasta courses. The black linguini was nicely textured and did a respectable job harmonizing tomato, heat, and the brine of the crab here. My gripe was that the seafood veered overdone.


Mushroom Ravioli [$16.00] | aged gouda, truffle pecorino, salad of flat leaf parsley, julienned shiitakes, thyme infused mushroom sauce
The ravioli made for a rich and gratifying sort of dish, one that smartly conveyed the classic, savory goodness of the mushrooms. I appreciated the levity imparted by the greenery up top, while the Pecorino added an additional hit of salt to things.


Purple Peruvian Gnocchi [$16.00] | rock shrimp, pearl onions, mandarin tomato concasse, herb-infused tomato nage
The favorite dish of the evening for everyone at the table was clearly Lunetta's gnocchi. It was one of the best versions of gnocchi I've had in fact. The pasta came appropriately textured and hearty, beautifully matched to the snappy, saline shrimp while notes of onion and tomato balanced out the plate. Something that I just wanted to keep eating.


Red Deep Sea Crab Cake [$16.00] | parsnip puree, crab raviolini, herb salad, tangerine segments, citrus nage
I'm a sucker for crab cakes, so this was a must-try for me. The actual cake could've used less filler, but taste-wise it did a laudable job in exuding the sweet-saline essence of the crustacean. I wasn't as keen on the accompaniments here, though, as I found the sweetness of the parsnip distracting.


For our larger courses, we opted to get a bottle of the Grenache/Syrah, Le Colombier, Vacqueyras, Rhone Valley, 2013 [$65]. A Rhône blend, this one was intense on the nose with notes of jammy berry fruit and spice. You got more of that on the palate, along with a slight booziness backed by a tannic character. Pretty tasty.


Coriander Crusted Ahi Tuna [$34.00] | chilled organic soba noodles, farmers market baby bok choy, shiitake mushrooms, lemongrass ginger broth
Asian-y crusted ahi tuna is one of those dishes that seemingly came of age in the early 2000's, but has since fallen out of favor for one reason or another. I hadn't had it for a while now, so it was actually sort of nice to taste such a thing again. There was a pleasing temperature contrast here with the fish, and the peppery crust was a great contrast for the subtle flavors of the tuna. I was also fan of the crunchy bok choy, but the soy/umami flavors here were on the strong, domineering side, stealing my attention away from the ahi.


Scottish Salmon "Premium Loch Duart" [$32.00] | saffron scented couscous, European squid, wild shrimp, fennel, celery, tangerine harissa lobster broth, Thai basil
Salmon arrived at a good temperature and consistency, with a crispness to it. The fish, though, seemed underseasoned, so the combo of squid and shrimp was really needed to bring up the dish. Tasty broth though, and I enjoyed the cous cous element here, too.


Prime Caramelized Pork Chop [$27.50] | Chieftain long grain wild rice, smoked bacon, spiced apple chutney, aged cider sauce
Getting into the meats now, the pork came out cooked to a pleasingly rare temperature, and had a good amount of bitter char to go along with the chop's satisfyingly piggy savors. I enjoyed it alone, along with the wild rice, but some of the other accoutrement rendered the dish overly sugary, overly floral.


Pan Roasted Rack of Lamb [$32.00] | roasted yellowfin potato samosas, curried vegetable moussaka, thyme scented lamb jus
Our final savory brought us an attractive looking lamb rack. It didn't disappoint in the taste department either, giving up appropriately ovine flavors along with a great bit of char and spice. And those cylindrical samosas? Damn tasty.


We went ahead and ordered everything on the dessert menu, along with the special of the night. Click for a larger version.


Bread Pudding
The kitchen ended up sending out an extra, off-menu item, ostensibly as a result of the large amount we ordered. I found it a strong rendition of the dessert, with delectable notes of spice and dark fruit in a moist little package.


Lisa's Fresh Baked Chocolate Chip Ice Cream Sandwich [$8.00] | vanilla ice cream
The ice cream sandwich was another standout, with the buttery, sweet spice of the cookie working beautifully with the vanilla.


Affogato [$9.00] | hazelnut gelato, shot of "Conservatory" espresso, almond biscotti
The affogato was pleasantly coffee-forward, with the espresso playing well with the gelato while the biscotti gave us some textural variation.


Chocolate Truffle Cake [$10.00] | vanilla ice cream
The chocolate cake was tasty enough, though pretty much your typical "molten lava cake."


Sticky Toffee Pudding [$10.00] | candied walnuts, vanilla ice cream, and toffee sauce
Another favorite was the toffee pudding, with all of its dark, sticky flavors perfectly matched with the ice cream and those crunchy candied walnut bits.


Halsey Mousse Bombe [$10.00] | chocolate and caramel sauce
The bombe combined what I believe was a caramel mousse with heftier flavors of chocolate and caramel.


Apple Tart [$8.00]
The dessert special of the night, our apple tart had a nice spice and sweetness to it, though the actual pastry part came out a touch soggy.

Dining at JiRaffe was a bit of a throwback. The food was solid, though on the staid side, and the whole vibe of the place definitely leaned conservative. A revamp, thus, seems like a good idea. From what I've heard, Lunetta is planning to stay in the space. His new concept will apparently feature more casual, and I'm guessing, more modern fare, though I don't think he'll stray too far from his roots. Look out for that in the coming months; I certainly will be.

Genwa (Los Angeles, CA)

February 2, 2015, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: Union (Pasadena, CA)

≪ Previous: JiRaffe (Santa Monica, CA)

$

0

0

Genwa Korean BBQ Restaurant
5115 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.549.0760
www.genwakoreanbbq.com
Thu 1/1/2015, 07:45p-10:50p





When it comes to top tier Korean BBQ in LA, Genwa's one of the names that often comes up. Opened in March 2008 by Jay Kwon, the restaurant's located, unconventionally, in Hancock Park, not Koreatown, but that doesn't seem to be a detriment to its popularity. For those relegated further west, there's also a second location inside the old Woo Lae Oak space in Beverly Hills that debuted in June 2013.


As for Genwa's menu, you get a nice variety of beef cuts joined by a large array of other traditional Korean dishes, though the place is surprisingly light on pork. Click for larger versions.


Drink-wise, the selection here is definitely better than most, with the standards of soju and beer joined by cocktails and the largest wine list I've encountered at a KBBQ joint (replete with baller Champagnes). Click for larger versions.


We negotiated a fixed corkage fee of $40, so we had at it with the beers. I started things off with a sour: the 2013 The Bruery Oude Tart with Sour Cherries, an oak-aged Flemish-style red aged, unsurprisingly, with cherries. It was as tart as you'd imagine, with dark, oaky, funky, vinous flavors and a bracing acidity to it. Puckering, but without too much actual cherry flavor in there.


Genwa is well-known for the galaxy of banchan they bring out, and tonight we enjoyed 22 varieties (clockwise from lower-left): pajeon (scallion pancake), kongjorim (soybean), ueong jorim (burdock root), gaji namul (eggplant), cheonsachae (clear kelp noodles), gyeran mari (rolled egg omelet), doljaban muchim (seasoned seaweed), dubu kimchi (tofu with kimchi), hobak jeon (fried zucchini), some sort of lettuce(?) banchan that I'm not familiar with, ojinguhchae muchim (dried squid), mumallaengi muchim (dried radish), eomuk bokkeum (fishcake), oi kimchi (cucumber kimchi), miyeok julgi bokkeum (seaweed salad), broccoli, pickled radish and jalapeño (not sure of the Korean name), dotorimuk (acorn jelly), baek kimchi (white kimchi), gamja saelleodeu (potato salad), kkakdugi (daikon kimchi), and lastly, good ol'baechu kimchi.


Accompanying the banchan was the gyeran jjim (steamed egg). Fluffy and flavorsome, it was one of the best I've had.


IPA duties tonight were handled by the 2014 Beachwood 8, the brewery's recently released anniversary beer. Made with eight hops--Chinook, Warrior, Citra, Nelson Sauvin, Equinox, Azacca, Belma, Mosaic--representing eight years, it was one of their best double IPAs yet. Think a great mix of pine-y, resinous, tropical fruit flavors on the nose, with a taste that was balanced, complex, and very satisfying, hitting all the right IPA notes.


Beef Mandu [$12.00] | Fried beef dumplings
Gunmandu were tasty little bites, with a simple savoriness to 'em and some pleasing textures on the wrappers. Easy to keep popping these.



Cha Dol [$27.00] | Thinly sliced unseasoned prime brisket
Getting into the meat now, we began with the ubiquitous chadol bagi, which I found more flavorful than most, with a good smoky quality and a nice bite.



Hyue Mit [$27.00] | Thinly sliced prime beef tongue
Tongue is one of my favorites items to order, and didn't disappoint tonight, coming out earthy and well-charred, with just the right amount of chew. Particularly good with a dab of sesame oil.


This entire dinner actually came about initially as an excuse to drink all of Firestone Walker's 2014 Proprietor's Vintage beers in one sitting. As such, we kicked off the series with the 2014 Firestone Walker Double DBA, their barrel-aged imperial special bitter that's actually being discontinued (this was the last bottling). Arguably the lightest beer of the bunch, it was a good way to commence. Notes of sweet coffee and bourbon on the nose led to flavors of malt, caramel, biscuit, vanilla, and coconut, with just a bit of heat toward the end.


Pa Jyun [$23.00] | Assorted seafood and vegetable pancake
I'm a sucker for haemul pajeon, and Genwa's was quite possibly the best I've had, a seafood-forward presentation well-laced with scallion and underscored by a superb spiciness. Note that what's pictured above was only an eight of the total pancake.



D Course (Serves 4) [$130.00]
At this point, we ordered one of Genwa's combos, which included the following: House Salad, Choice of Dwenjang Jigae or Kimchee Jigae or Bibimbap, Kot Sal, Joo Mul Luk, Prime Galbi, Bulgogi, and Soju (which we replaced with a bibimbap given all our beer).


Next to drink was the 2014 Firestone Walker Sucaba, a barrel-aged English barley wine. One of the brewery's most famous beers, this didn't let us down, with loads upon loads of dark fruit, malt, and chocolate on the nose, while the palate gave us more fruit, more malt, and plenty of barrel and bourbon character.



Kot Sal | Sliced, unseasoned prime boneless short ribs
Kkot sal is always a tasty one to eat, a beautifully-marbled cut that was delicate in flavor, with a good amount of char and a supple, yet satisfying consistency.



Joo Mul Luk | Premium cut beef, seasoned w/ garlic, pepper and salt
Coming out marinated, jumulleok was particularly juicy, with a deeper, more intense sort of bovine goodness.


Billed as a Central Coast quad, the 2014 Firestone Walker Stickee Monkee was brewed with Mexican turbinado brown sugar and aged a year in bourbon barrels. As a result, there was a huge, huge candied aroma on this one that I really enjoyed. On the tongue, it was all about molasses, brown sugar, malt, oak, and sweet coconut. Damn tasty.



Kimchee Jigae | Spicy kimchee stew w/tofu, pork, vegetables and rice
Dwen Jang Jigae | Korean miso based stew w/tofu, beef, vegetables and rice
A duo of stews formed natural accompaniments to all that meat. The kimchi jjigae was all that you'd want from it, spicy and intense, with a nice contribution from the paengi beoseot (enokis). Meanwhile, the doenjang jjigae was a bit more subdued, with a heartier profile from the soybean paste and a comforting beefiness.



Prime Galbi | Prime short ribs, marinated in house special sauce
Kalbi came out with a good mix of sweet, char, and meaty flavors. Slightly chewy, but in a gratifying way.


The 2014 Firestone Walker Velvet Merkin, a bourbon barrel-aged oatmeal stout, was the most surprising of the beers tonight. The bouquet was super sweet on this one, teeming with notes of raisin. Unexpectedly effervescent and smooth, it had huge, huge amounts of bourbon character, almost as if there were actual whiskey mixed in. It was probably the most pronounced bourbon that I'd tasted in any beer, though the flavors went well with the brew's chocolate-y base.



Bulgogi | Thinly sliced prime beef, marinated in house special sauce
The ubiquitous bulgogi rounded out our combo meats, a sweet-tasting, tender presentation that was certainly the easiest-eating cut of the bunch.



Samgyup Sal [$23.00] | Sliced unseasoned prime pork belly
With the beef dispensed with, we had to get some pork all up in this and thus ordered a plate of the samgyeopsal. It was a spot on rendition of the belly, thick cut with great piggy flavors, a nice char, and the right amount of fat. Particularly good with some grilled kimchi.


The 2014 Firestone Walker Parabola was undoubtedly the heftiest beer of the evening. It had the headiest aroma, with intoxicatingly rich notes of toffee, molasses, oak, and bourbon, while taste-wise, you got loads of chocolate, coffee, spice, bitterness, and vanilla-laced barrel character. This one lived up to its reputation as one of the top BBA stouts out there.



Sizzling Bibim-Bap | Rice w/beef, assorted seasoned vegetables & egg, mixed with chili pepper paste
With the meat all eaten up, we tucked into some dolsot bibimbap, a prototypical presentation of the dish with a strong sesame backbone and undertones of spicy gochujang. I was particularly fond of the crispy bits of nurungji here.


Nurungji was also used at the end of the meal to make a porridge, which I wasn't particularly keen on.


Last but certainly not least was the 2014 Firestone Walker XVIII, the brewery's 18th anniversary ale comprised of 227 barrels of nine different beers, blended together, with Parabola leading the charge at 38%. Not surprisingly, it was the most multifaceted brew, smelling mostly of dark fruit, brown sugar, and chocolate. The taste was fairly restrained, harmonious, with oak, malt, bourbon and more of that chocolate-covered berry fruit.


Dessert was composed of an unexpectedly good Cookies 'n Cream-like ice cream (loved the mochi texture here) and a cup of sweet, rice-y sikhye.




We needed more of the sugary stuff to close, so we busted out some Dunkin' Donuts, which we quickly cut up and skewered. Flavors included (clockwise from upper-left): Blueberry Cake, Oreo, Apple n Spice, Bavarian Kreme, Boston Kreme, and Strawberry Frosted.


Given how much we drank, I wasn't originally planning to open the 2014 Bottle Logic Dr. Strangematter, but one of my dining companions insisted. A collabo with Iron Fist Brewing for the OC Brew Ha Ha festival, this was a saison brewed with holy basil, pink peppercorn, wild flower honey, and New Zealand Wakatu and Wai-Iti hops, then fermented with French farmhouse yeast and aged in Chardonnay barrels. I found it tart and funky and wine-y, with a surprising weight to it and strong tropical fruit quality and palpable honeyed character, all balanced by a backbone of hop bitterness.


We also noted toward the end of the night that Genwa's chopsticks featured a somewhat disconcerting depiction of Hello Kitty (along with another character that I wasn't familiar with).

You do pay a premium here, but Genwa delivered food-wise with some quality KBBQ, and all in a comfortable, dare I say fancy environment, with respectable service to boot. No doubt this is one of the better players in LA's gogigui game.

Union (Pasadena, CA)

February 6, 2015, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Mexicali Taco & Co (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Genwa (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Union Restaurant
37 E Union St, Pasadena, CA 91103
626.795.5841
www.unionpasadena.com
Thu 1/8/2015, 09:00p-12:10a





Despite the relative abundance of restaurants in Old (Town) Pasadena, there's never really been all that much worth going to. In my nearly nine years of writing this blog, I can only count visits to the defunct Trattoria Tre Venezie, Sushi Kimagure, and a couple LQ pop-ups at Vertical (which probably shouldn't count). Union, however, was one that I was actually really looking forward to trying. The restaurant debuted on March 11 last year, and is a Cal-Italian joint from Chef Bruce Kalman and business partner Marie Petulla, a Chicago native who used to work the FOH at Stout and Firefly.

About the Chef: The son of a music teacher, Kalman was born and raised in Paramus, New Jersey, and started playing the guitar at age seven (he would eventually form a band with his brother during his teenage years and open for Meat Loaf). At age nine, he began cooking with his grandmother and discovered his second love, and by age 13, had taken a job at a pizzeria owned by his father's friend. It was here where Kalman decided to dedicate himself to cooking, and as such, enrolled in a culinary vocational program at his high school. From there, he further studied the craft at Hudson County Community College in Jersey City, and also cooked at a number of local places during this time period. He later relocated to Chicago to work at the O'Hare Marriott, where he served as assistant banquet chef for a year and a half. Kalman then moved to iconic Italian eatery Spiaggia as a sous, working under Paul Bartolotta in his first true fine dining gig. Spiaggia was part of Levy Restaurants, a food service company focusing on event venue dining, and because of that, the young chef was able to help Charles Weber open Blackhawk Lodge near the Magnificent Mile.

Weber was eventually poached by David Burke to open Park Ave Café at the Doubletree, and an introduction allowed Kalman to become tournant at Burke's New York outpost of Park Ave. In 1996, after a year in NYC, he left for Santa Fe to open Il Piatto, then transitioned to Southwest eatery La Casa Sena as exec sous. 1997 saw Kalman relocate back to Chicago, where he secured his first Executive Chef role at Terry Alexander's Okno. During his year here, he was nominated for James Beard's "Rising Star Chef – Midwest" award, but soon moved over to the Green Dolphin Street music venue. After a short stint there, he became Coco Pazzo Cafe's head chef at the start of 1999, but left in April 2000 to open his own place: 5 Boroughs Delicatessen, a New York-style deli. Shortly after the place's debut, Kalman met his future wife at a Seattle's Best Coffee, one of his customers, and when she moved back home to Ohio, he shuttered the deli and followed her. Now in Ohio, he began working for Bravo Brio Restaurant Group, first as Executive Chef and later Managing Partner. He spent seven years with the company, opening numerous locations.

After being sent to Arizona to open a few restaurants for Bravo Brio, Kalman jumped ship to another restaurant group: LGO Hospitality, and started at their Chelsea's Kitchen concept in Phoenix at the tail end of 2009. LGO sent the Chef to LA in 2010, where he opened The Misfit in Santa Monica (the site of Alain Giraud's Anisette) in early 2011. He spent a year there, then joined Acme Bar Group as a consultant in February 2012, running the show over at Urbano Pizza Bar. In September that year, Kalman took on the Executive Chef role at The Churchill in WeHo, and during his tenure there, even filmed an episode of Chopped, beating out three other chefs to snag the win. He left in May 2013 to start Bruce's Prime Pickle Co, an artisanal pickle company, and later that year, appeared on Ilan Hall's Knife Fight, beating out Stefan Richter. He also joined Dog Haus as "culinary director" that November, and was soon tapped by Petulla to consult on the opening of Union. However, the consulting project soon turned into a partnership, and their restaurant would debut the following March.


Union's a fairly small space, seating approximately 50 diners in a homey, comfy setting replete with the requisite exposed brick.


As for Union's menu, it's akin to a Californian interpretation of Northern Italian cooking, compact and focused in its intent. To drink, Wine Director George Pitsironis (Inception Wine, Spago) has put together a modest, Italian-leaning wine list, and there's a decent selection of beer to boot. Click for larger versions.


BREAD & GIARDINIERE [$6.00] | house made cultured butter
Bread arrived at a pleasantly warm temperature, light to the bite and conveying a pleasant tanginess. Butter was on point, but I preferred an accompaniment of the housemade, sour-spicy giardiniera pickles.


We soon cracked a bottle of 2014 Cascade Cranberry that we brought, a blend of sour wheat ales aged in oak barrels with cranberries, orange peel, and cinnamon. Lots of light fruit and funk, along with oak on the nose. On the palate, more tart berry and earthy notes joined by plenty of acidity. Refreshing overall, and not too puckering.


PITMAN FARMS DUCK CONFIT [$16.00] | heirloom beans, gremolata, crostini
Confit of duck arrived with a wonderfully crisp, savory crust and loads of duck-y goodness, though the bird was a touch dry in places. I quite enjoyed how the beans were folded into the dish here, and the crostini was a welcomed surprise as well.


PORK MEATBALLS [$14.00] | San Marzano tomato, Calabrian chile, lardo
Meatballs were large, and loaded with notes of tangy tomato underscored by the heat of chilies. I would've liked to have seen more of the inherent porkiness of the balls shine through though, even with the presence of lardo.


CAULIFLOWER [$13.00] | "agro dolce", golden raisins, candied garlic, capers
I'm quite the cauliflower fiend as you probably already know, and really enjoyed the presentation here. The crunch of the cauliflower was nicely displayed, and I appreciated how the sweet, tangy flavors in the dish complemented, but didn't overwhelm the delicate flavors of the vegetable.


The 2014 Propolis Salmon was a saison brewed with elderflowers and aged in Syrah barrels with wild salmonberries. It was delicious, smelling of juicy, floral fruit and tasting funky and tart, with more delectable elderflower notes and a dry, refreshing finish. Propolis may be a relative newcomer, but so far the brewery's two-for-two for me (I'd tasted their Fructus at Twenty Eight).


WILD MUSHROOMS [$15.00] | G&T polenta, Pedro Ximenez sherry vinegar, truffle butter
An intoxicating aroma of truffle preceded the earthiness of mushroom here, a delicate musk complemented by the sweet-tart vinegar and sharp, herbaceous notes. I liked the use of Grist & Toll polenta as well, which did a nice job grounding the entire course.


BRUSSELS SPROUTS [$14.00] | bacon, apple, pistachios, ricotta
Brussels were crisp and bitter, just how I like 'em, with a great contrast of sweet and salty flavors augmented by the nutty crunch of those pistachios.


PORCHETTA [$29.00] | Weiser Farms potatoes, salsa verde
We grabbed one of the last two remaining porchettas early on, which turned out to be a wise decision. It was certainly one of the best renditions I've had, its skin delightfully crisp, and with a mouth-watering porky goodness intermingled with some great herb-y notes. I was a fan of that zesty salsa verde too, and the hearty potatoes did a wonderful job moderating everything.


SQUID INK GARGANELLI [$22.00] | lobster, fennel, meyer lemon, truffle butter
At this point, we moved on to our first of four pastas (all made in house, natch). Garganelli was well-textured, imbued with the rich essence of truffle while the snappy bits of lobster added further luxuriousness to the dish. I appreciated the incorporation of lemon and fennel as well, both of which imparted some zestier notes to the mix to balance out the hefty flavors at play.


Next, we ordered a bottle of rosé, the Colle Stefano, "Rosa di Elena" (Sangiovese), Le Marche 2013 [$45]. It was a fun, fresh wine, a mélange of light red fruit and minerality with a crisp, dry, yet somehow juicy finish.


TAGLIATELLE [$17.00] | pork ragu, Parmigiano-Reggiano, gremolata
The tagliatelle was another winner, satisfying to the bite, with a delectable, slightly herbaceous meatiness from the ragu, all balanced by the zip of gremolata and just a hint of salt from the Parm.


SPAGHETTI ALLA CHITARRA [$15.00] | San Marzano tomato, garlic, fresno chile
Union's spaghetti must be some of the best in town. I loved the base of tart tomato flavors here, and how that flowed with the garlicky nuances present and fragrant aromatics of basil, the whole thing underscored by a great touch of heat.


RICOTTA CAVATELLI [$17.00] | wild boar sausage, broccoli di ciccio, beans, pistachios
Cavatelli was to my liking as well. I was a huge fan of the herby, savory sausage utilized here, and how that paired with the bitterness of that broccoli, the beans lending a heft to the entire dish. Yum.


SANTA BARBARA SPANISH MACKEREL [$26.00] | black barley, olives, capers, raisin mostarda
We ended our savories on a high note. Mackerel came out tender and juicy, conveying a wondrous salinity to pair with its perfectly crisp skin. The fish was certainly tasty by itself, but the counterpoint provided by the barley took this one over the top.


Time for dessert, which is the work of Pastry Chef Crystal Espinoza (who also doubles as sous). Click for a larger version.


GIANDUJA CHOCOLATE BUDINO [$8.00] | cocoa nib, truffle salt, Ligurian olive oil
The requisite pudding was all that you'd expect, loaded with rich chocolate-y goodness while the cacao nibs and truffle salt gave up a counterbalancing crunch and saltiness.


Our final tipple was the just-released 2015 The Bruery Mocha Wednesday, a bourbon barrel-aged imperial stout brewed with TCHO cacao nibs and Portola coffee beans. Given that the base beer here is the exquisite Black Tuesday, I expected this to be good, but it turned out to be arguably the best coffee beer I'd ever tasted. There were intense, intense aromas of wonderfully fruity coffee here, with just a touch of chocolate hiding in the background; it smelled so good, probably the most sharply focused coffee nose I'd experienced. In terms of taste, I got wave upon wave of more true-to-life coffee bean, more chocolate, and your classic notes of roasty malt and booze. This is one not to be missed.


SPICED PERSIMMON BUNDT CAKE [$8.00] | walnuts, pickled blueberries, cream cheese vanilla icing
Persimmons were put into Bundt form here, a moist, semi-loose cake with the fruit's relatively subdued flavors augmented by a sweet spice. The cream cheese icing gave up even more sugariness to the dessert, but didn't overwhelm things, and the tart blueberries were also appreciated.


HONEYCRISP APPLE BREAD PUDDING [$8.00] | butterscotch, pistachios, almond milk sorbet
Last up was the bread pudding, a surprisingly light, yet still satisfying presentation, one with some tasty apple and caramel flavors to pair with the airy sorbet.

We left Union very satisfied. The restaurant is just what Old Pas needs, a modern, seasonal, yet approachable interpretation of Italian that rises above the culinary mediocrity endemic to the area. My hat's off to Kalman and company. As for what's next, look out for Union on Bravo's new series Best New Restaurant, where they're competing for the title against 15 other eateries, including local joints The Church Key in West Hollywood, Doma in Beverly Hills, and Little Sparrow in Santa Ana. I'm certainly watching.

Mexicali Taco & Co (Los Angeles, CA)

February 10, 2015, 7:55 pm

≫ Next: Terrine (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Union (Pasadena, CA)

$

0

0

Mexicali Taco & Co
702 N Figueroa St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.613.0416
www.mexicalitaco.com
Tue 1/6/2015, 07:55p-10:30p





One of the more prominent parts of LA's taco landscape is certainly the Baja-inspired Mexicali. The place started with founders Esdras Ochoa and Javier Fregoso, who grew up in Mexicali and its sister city Calexico across the border. After leaving jobs at Hustler Casino in Gardena, the two started Mexicali Taco in 2009 at a parking lot on the corner of 1st and Beaudry in Downtown, serving a limited menu of their hometown eats. Word soon began to spread about the place, and eventually caught the attention of real estate investor Paul Yoo, who quickly became a regular patron. In 2011, the owner of the lot ended their partnership, forcing Fregoso and Ochoa to temporary set up shop in front of The Daily Dose that October. However, Yoo soon came to the rescue, and the three teamed up and opened this Chinatown brick-and-mortar outpost in February 2012.


Inside, what's shown above is basically what you get. Order at the counter, get a number, grab one of the five red picnic tables, and your food will be brought out to you Carl's Jr. style.


Mexicali's menu is pretty straightforward, comprising a relatively small number of items, most available with your choice of meat. Click for larger versions.


Condiment options tonight were a sharply spicy tomato-habanero salsa, a smoky chipotle(?), a mild salsa roja, a prototypical pico de gallo, and a low viscosity, taqueria-style guacamole. Other fixings included pickled red onion, radish, cucumber, lime, and shredded cabbage.


Vampiro (Pollo) [$4.35] | Crispy, golden "quesadilla" filled with choice of meat and infused with our special garlic sauce
We began, naturally, with the vampiro, pretty much Mexicali's signature dish by this point. It was a pretty impressive rendition of your classic quesadilla, super cheesy, with the queso really bringing together the smoky, charred chicken, garlic sauce, and slightly crisp flour tortilla. You'll want to get this.


Mexicali Taco (Veggie) [$2.35] | Northern Baja-style: authentic harina or maíz tortilla stuffed with choice of meat
The first of a few tacos was of the vegetarian variety, which I found surprisingly satisfying. I liked the smokiness that pervaded the dish here, and the crunch of the veggies was appreciated as well.


One of the great things about Mexicali is that they're BYOB friendly, so naturally we busted out a few beers that we had with us. The 2014 Surly Furious was our requisite IPA, and was super, super tropical on the nose; I don't think I'd ever had a beer that smelled so much of mango. However, that nose belied the palate, which was bracingly bitter, with a hoppiness that evened out the sweeter notes in the brew. The 2014 Goose Island The Muddy, on the other hand, was pretty close to your classic stout. Think smooth roasty malt, coffee, and chocolate, with the subtly sweet spice of the licorice coming into play toward the middle.


Mexicali Taco (Carne Asada) [$2.35] | Northern Baja-style: authentic harina or maíz tortilla stuffed with choice of meat
The ubiquitous carne asada arrived unadorned, with a good helping of the meat in a fairly substantial tortilla. The asada gave off a pleasing beefiness to it, along with a much-appreciated smoke that really called for a splash of salsa to bring it all together.


Side of Chips [$1.75]
Guacamole [$1.45]
Aioli Sauce [$0.65]
Next, we made sure to get a side of chips, which were a tad oily, but delightfully crunchy, a fitting base on which to enjoy the two accompaniments. Guac was well-textured and deftly conveyed the goodness that is avocado, though it could've used more acidity. The chipotle aioli, meanwhile, was very good, creamy and possessing just the right amount of creeping heat.


Sour duties were handled by the 2014 Modern Times News From Nowhere, a new, highly-anticipated, tasting room-only release from the brewery. Done in the Flanders Red style, the beer was aged in red wine barrels and was classically delicious in essence, with plenty of tart red berry, oaky vanilla, and funk, making for a puckering, vinous drinking experience. I wasn't quite as keen on the serrano-infused 2014 Bad Beat The Heater though, as the interplay between the lingering heat of the pepper and the creamy, sweet, roasty qualities of the stout didn't quite sit well with me.


Cachetada (Chorizo) [$3.60] | The classic tostada reinvented with choice of meat and melted Mexican cheese, topped with a savory aioli chipotle sauce
The cachetada was a must-try as well, sort of a reimagined tostada that brought together meaty, spicy chorizo with just the right amount of cheese, the whole thing tied together by that addictive chipotle sauce. Great crunchiness here, too.


Shrimp Taco [$3.50] | Adobado grilled succulent shrimp on a cheesy corn tortilla garnished with fresh cilantro
The shrimp taco was a pleasant surprise, with the camarones coming out nicely textured and imbued with a healthy amount of brine, the cheese doing a good job as a supporting player.


Gueros [$1.50] | Cantonese-Baja style prepared peppers
Sprinkled with dry chile, the Gueros were pretty robust, providing a savory-spicy pungency that stays with you.


Next to imbibe was the long-monikered 2014 Evil Twin Mosaic Single Hop Imperial India Pale American Wheat Lager. This one drank much like an IPA, with loads of bitter, botanical aromatics on the nose, which led to flavors of tropical fruit and caramel-y malt on the tongue. It was followed by the 2014 Stone Winter Harvest, the seventh release of the brewery's Quingenti Millilitre barrel-aged series. The Belgian-style blonde was brewed with Merlot grapes back in April 2012, then aged for 27 months in Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay casks. The result was a beer with a distinct white wine-like character, loaded with juicy hints of tropical fruit and nuances of oak, all overarched by a slight yeastiness. Very neat.


Nachos (Carne Asada) [$6.95] | Crispy chips topped with choice of meat & variety of cheeses bound together wonderfully by our special salsa roja
Nachos were very, very cheesy, too much so in fact, as the cheese tended to overwhelm some of the inherent goodness of the asada here. I did appreciate the peppery salsa on top as a moderating element, and the chips were as gratifying as ever.


Cachetada Ranchero (Chorizo) [$3.60 + $0.85] | The classic tostada reinvented with choice of meat and melted Mexican cheese, topped with a savory aioli chipotle sauce
We all enjoyed the cachetada above, but to make it ever better, we went for a version done ranchero style, or topped with egg. It was almost breakfast-like in its deliciousness, with the lushness of that runny huevo really lending an enveloping richness that bound all the elements here together. Can't go wrong with this.


Queso Fundido (Chorizo) [$8.50] | Monterey jack cheese with a hint of wine, topped with your choice of meat & flame broiled inside traditional clay pots
Mexicali's take on queso flameado was enjoyable as well, with the super stringy cheese working hand-in-hand with the meaty heat of that chorizo. Great scooped up with some tortillas or chips. Just be make sure to eat it quickly, lest the cheese congeal.


Taking a break from the beer, we opened a bottle of the Ballast Point Fugu Horchata, an horchata-flavored vodka from one of San Diego's most celebrated breweries (it seemed apropos giving the setting). Made with cinnamon, vanilla, and rice, this really did recall its namesake drink, giving up lots of sweet, creamy spice over a hefty backbone of alcoholic heat, especially toward the finish. To soften it up, we then proceeded to mix in some Califia Farms Chocolate Protein Almondmilk, which effectively hid any of the booze and made for a chocolate shake-like drinking experience.


Mexicali Taco (Pollo) [$2.35] | Northern Baja-style: authentic harina or maíz tortilla stuffed with choice of meat
Our final taco featured chicken, and really showed off the blackened nature of the bird, delivering lots of bitterness, char, and smoke along with the savoriness of the meat.


Quesadilla (Shrimp) [$3.99] | Savory harina tortillas with Mexican cheeses
A shrimp-enhanced quesadilla delivered, with the snappy, saline shrimp the star here and melding seamlessly with the gooey cheese.


Zuperman [$5.95] | A gigantic portion of all three meats & cheese sandwiched between two tasty harina tortillas
We ended with the Zuperman, in effect a gangbang of asada-pollo-chorizo-cheese between two comparatively flimsy flour tortillas. It was indeed the sluttiest dish of the night, but also tasty, with its multifaceted meatiness meshing with the cheese and salsa and satisfying in a base sort of way.


The 2014 Bell's Mercury was the third release in a series of beers inspired by Gustav Holst's The Planets. A Belgian-style ale, this one didn't do much for me at all, tasting much like a pedestrian pale ale--rather mediocre. We then finished with a sampling of the Buffalo Trace Bourbon Cream, a commixture of bourbon and cream that was like a grown up version of Baileys. Yummy alone, and not bad with a splash of Olde Rhode Island Molasses Root Beer either.


They don't really do desserts here, so with the savories done with, we brought out some of our own. The strawberry-flavored Morinaga Hello Kitty Kawaii missed the mark a bit, with good flavor but a disconcertingly chalky texture. More to my liking were the Lotte Hello Kitty Lottepies, soft, chocolate-coated cookies with a strata of fluffy marshmallow.

Mexicali's been around for a while now, but it's taken me this long to make it out here. I'm glad I did though, as the place was a nice change of pace from the fancier taco options out there these days. The cooking's straightforward, unadorned, but also satisfying in its simplicity, and I don't think I'd ever get tired of those cachetadas.

---

Terrine (Los Angeles, CA)

February 13, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Flautas (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Mexicali Taco & Co (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Terrine Restaurant
8265 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048
323.746.5130
www.terrinela.com
Fri 1/16/2015, 08:00p-12:45a





One of the buzzier places to bow in recent times is no doubt Terrine, which has taken over the address of the middling Sirena. The restaurant is the work of Chef Kris Morningstar, Stephane Bombet, and François Renaud (The Tasting Kitchen, Palate, Café Stella, La Cachette), who serves as Managing Partner and Wine Director. Also on board are investors Brett Gurewitz of the band Bad Religion as well as actor Jesse Tyler Ferguson of Modern Family fame. Terrine is billed as a California brasserie of sorts, so food-wise, expect Cal-inflected renditions of Continental-ish classics.

About the Chef: Born and raised just outside of LA in Redlands, Kristopher Morningstar first got interested in cooking after watching his father in the kitchen, and by the time the family moved to New Jersey during his teenage years, he had already made a habit of putting together elaborate meals. After leaving Mountain Lakes High School in 1997, he entered the University of Maryland and graduated in 2001 with a degree in marketing. However, Morningstar soon decided that he want to cook for a living, and wound up enrolling at the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena. He completed his culinary degree in 2002, and quickly took a job at One Pico, the restaurant at Shutters on the Beach in Santa Monica. From there, he moved to Suzanne Goin's AOC, Opaline with Jason Travi, and Neal Fraser's Grace. In March 2004, he took a tournant position at Patina, then under Theo Schoenegger's watch.

After just seven months, Morningstar went to work for Schoenegger's predecessor Eric Greenspan at the newly-opened Meson G (now the site of the departed Hatfield's). He stayed until March the next year, and that December, found his first Executive Chef gig at Casey's Irish Pub in Downtown. Following, at age 28, he became chef at Blue Velvet when it opened in November 2006, and was even nominated by James Beard in 2008 for his work there. Morningstar left shortly thereafter in February--ostensibly after management changed the direction of the restaurant--and, after a project at L.A. Live fell through, found a consulting position at Steven Arroyo's 750mL wine bar in South Pasadena. His next job was that of opening Executive Chef at Downtown's Casa Cocina y Cantina, which launched in January 2009. That stint lasted only a few months, as he soon teamed up with George Abou-Daoud and debuted The Mercantile in November that year, with adjacent restaurant District opening the following March.

He was out by October, however, and re-joined the Patina Group as Executive Chef of Ray's & Stark Bar inside LACMA, which bowed in March 2011. The mid-century eatery was a reasonable success, and even garnered Esquire's "Best New Restaurant" award. Seemingly content in his longest-tenured position thus far, Morningstar appeared on Ilan Hall's Knife Fight in August 2013, facing off against Girasol's Chris "CJ" Jacobsen (his replacement at The Mercantile, coincidentally). Though he was deemed the loser by judges Lou Amdur and, interestingly, his now-partner Brett Gurewitz, he would eventually become a regular judge on the show. Perhaps spurred on by this newfound stardom, he left Ray's in May 2014, replaced by his CdC Viet Pham (the two first met at Casey's). The Chef subsequently ran a weekend brunch series at The Gorbals, then joined the team at Terrine in October.


Sirena's somewhat garish dining room has been thankfully stripped down to a more charming, old school aesthetic. The space seats about 60, while another five dozen or so fit in the back patio, which has fortunately survived relatively intact.


As for Terrine's menu, it's pretty much a Cal-French-Italian affair, divvied up into an array of small plates and the prototypical progression of pastas/pizzas/mains/sides. To imbibe, Renaud and Sommelier Fahara Zamorano have got a French-leaning wine list going on (corkage, if you're interested, is $25), while spirit-centric cocktails are the work of barman Ryan Wainwright, also a vet of The Tasting Kitchen. Click for larger versions.


Egg Nog [$13.00] | Torres 10, Port, Egg, Nutmeg
I'm quite the fan of the nog, so I had to start with Terrine's version. It was one of the best I've had: super aromatic, with plenty of sugary spice on the nose, creamy on the palate, and with the sweet heat of the booze coming in toward the back end.


Assiette de Charcuteries [$26.00] | Duck Rillettes, Terrine de Campagne, Duck & Pistachio Terrine, Kielbasa, Truffled Chicken Liver, House Pickles, Olives
Given that the place is named Terrine, we felt compelled to begin with Morningstar's housemade charcuterie, served with some lovely pickles and two types of mustard:

• Duck Rillettes - Appropriately supple, with a super savory relish and loads of ducky goodness.
• Kielbasa - Delightfully smoky and snappy, finishing with a slight spice.
• Truffled Chicken Liver - Earthy and smooth, with just a hint of truffle overarching the elegant flavors present.
• Terrine de Campagne - Gritty and rustic to the bite, while taste-wise I found it nicely peppery, with a lingering spice.
• Beef Deckle - A.k.a. rib eye cap; smoky and almost BBQ-esque, with a palpable fattiness to it.
• Duck & Pistachio Terrine - This one did a great job showing off the duck while the pistachios added a nutty, crunchy counterpoint.

Jack Rose [$12.00] | Germain-Robin Apple Brandy, Citrus, Pomegranate
Next to drink was an interpretation of the classic Jack Rose. Think fruity and apple-forward initially, with the citrus coming in later and leading to a close that emphasized the brandy.


Terrine de Foie Gras [$19.00] | Sweet & Sour Prunes, Baguette, Fleur de Sel
Of course, with the recent repeal of the foie gras ban, restaurants are jumping at the chance to utilize the ingredient. The terrine is arguably the most traditional of preparations, and this was pretty much a spot on example of the delicacy, perfectly smooth and spreadable and showing off the rich flavors of the liver with a lot of finesse, augmented by just a pinch of salt and pepper. I would've liked a warmer, crustier baguette though.


Whiskey Sour [$12.00] | Sazerac, Lemon, Whites, Cherry Bark-Vanilla Bitters
I was a fan of Terrine's take on the whiskey sour. Superb aromas of cherry and floral vanilla led to a balance of boozy and sour flavors, with the egg whites adding a moderating element to the drink. Delish.


Chips and Dip [$7.00] | Garlic Cream Cheese, Everything Spice, Kennebec Chips
Chips were crispy and salty and all that you'd want. The key here, though, was that cream cheese dip, which was wonderfully light, almost fluffy, and imbued with a great touch of spice. Taken all together, the effect was akin to a fancified version of good ol' sour cream 'n' onion.


At this point, we moved from cocktails on to the Chenin Blanc, montlouis sur loire, pétillant naturel, loire, ludovic chanson, 2011 [$54]. This was a breezy, lightweight sparkler, bright and acidic, with plenty of apple backed by a chalky minerality.


Stuffed Bone Marrow [$11.00] | Beets, Horseradish, Oxtail, Cress
Bone marrow was super beefy thanks to the oxtail, with its dark flavors offset by the incorporation of beets and cress. Texturally, this was chunky and almost crispy, and I missed the slick, unctuous consistency usually found with marrow.


Octopus [$16.00] | Toasted Broccoli, Burrata, Sunflower Seeds, Salsa Calabrese
Regular readers will know that I can't resist octopus, and here it arrived toothsome and tender, with a great bit of charring. The interplay between it, the broccoli, and the creamy burrata was smart, and I appreciated the subtle undercurrent of heat imparted by the Calabrese sauce as well.


Crispy Pig Ears [$12.00] | Sauce Gribiche
I always have to get the pig ears, and tonight they came out super crunchy, yet slightly gelatinous, with a straightforward savoriness to 'em that paired beautifully with the herb-y zing of the included condiment.


Time for some beer we brought. The 2014 Propolis Prunus was a dark ale brewed with herbs and aged a year with wild cherries. There was quite a bit going on with this one. I got a bouquet of oak, tart cherry, and roasty malt, while taste-wise, think acidic and vinous, with dark fruit and spice all wrapped in a dry, tangy package.


Morningstar then sent out a surprise dish of foie gras. It was a commendable example of a hot preparation of the ingredient, with the liver coming out well-cooked, well-charred, and as rich and luscious as you'd want. The foie stood alone, but the accompaniments here certainly elevated things. Texturally, I loved the crunchy bits, and the astringency provided by the scallions was a fitting accent piece.


Herb Spaetzle [$22.00] | Wild Mushrooms, Scallions, Pecorino, Farm Egg
Our first of two pasta dishes brought out some of the tastiest spätzle I've had in a while. Great texture on the noodles here, and the additional weight of the mushrooms and cheese was much appreciated as well. I was a big fan of the green onion, too, which added a counterbalancing bitterness to the dish.


Squid Ink Tagliatelle [$22.00] | Squid, Serrano Chile, Basil, Bottarga
Tagliatelle was rather enjoyable, with the squid and bottarga adding a lovely bit of salinity to the dish while the serranos contributed a touch of creeping spice. I liked the basil aromatics too, but I wanted a firmer consistency on the noodles.


Michael Nemcik (who, coincidentally, was the somm at Sirena) happened to stop by our table during the meal and had along with him a bottle of 2010 Schramsberg Vineyards Blanc de Noirs Brut. The wine wasn't quite what I was expecting. I found it more austere than anticipated, with lots of citrus on the nose, tinged by just a hint of berry fruit. I tasted more fruit and lots of acidity, along with an earthy, almost funky aspect that I couldn't quite put my finger on.


City's Best Fish & Chips [$20.00]
Deeming this LA's best fish 'n' chips is a bold claim, but Morningstar just might be on to something here (after all, he had plenty of time to perfect his recipe over at Casey's). It was certainly one of the strongest I've had, with the rock fish arriving light, airy, and flaky, yet moist, with a delightfully crisp, non-bready crust. The key, though, was to eat it with the included tartar sauce, which was just about flawless, all creamy, tangy, herb-y, and addictive. The fries were also rather tasty, nicely thick and substantial, with a comforting flair to them.


Médallion of Beef Rossini [$32.00] | Seared Foie Gras, Périgord Truffle, Spinach
We ended our savories with a rendition of Tournedos Rossini, that classic standby of filet mignon topped with foie gras. The meat was cooked to a proper temperature, though, given that it was filet, didn't offer up much in terms of robust flavor. As such, the foie was really key here, adding a richness that pervaded the dish. Also crucial was the spinach, which imparted a bitterness that helped balance out all the hefty flavors present.


At this point, we were joined by noted wine professional Christopher Lavin, whom I first encountered over at Michael Mina's XIV (now Hyde Sunset) back in the day. He brought along with him a bottle of 1995 Château Cheval Blanc and we were eager to drink up the remaining dregs (from a glass originally poured for Stephane, actually). It was my first Cheval Blanc, and I found it really well-balanced and surprisingly easy-drinking, with a softness to it that presented the fruit in the wine in a delicate manner. Lavin also gave us a taste of his 2002 Chateau Musar, which was actually more interesting. I got loads of fruit on the nose, along with some sweet, almost chocolate-y notes. In terms of taste, there was more fruit and more spice, balanced by a restrained acidity and some nice tannins.


We made sure to order one of each dessert. Interestingly, Sahar Shomali (whom we last saw at Fifty Seven) helped open the restaurant, but has since decamped to work with Suzanne Goin, leaving Terrine without a pastry chef. Click for a larger version.


Rosette Cookies [$7.00] | Citrus Caramel
Deep-fried Scandinavian cookies were crisp and crunchy (though perhaps a touch overdone), with a sugary caramel richness perked up by a smidge of citrus.


Birthday Cake [$11.00] | Chocolate, Sea Salt Caramel, Toffee
I'm not sure why this was called a Birthday Cake, since it was quite unlike any such cake I've had. That being said, it was still quite good, with its dense layers augmented by the chocolate and the array of crunchy, nutty, savory bits on top.


Apple & Pear Galette [$10.00] | Apple Jus, Honey-Rosemary Ice Cream
The galette, on the other hand, wasn't quite as successful, as I found it on the dry side, though I did enjoy the almost bracing, herbal ice cream on the side.


To go with dessert, we opened up an appropriate beer, the 2012 AleSmith Bourbon Barrel Aged Speedway Stout, an imperial stout brewed with Ryan Bros coffee and aged in bourbon barrels. This one was super smooth, with flavors of chocolate, coffee, and roast commingled with oak and vanilla from the barrel aging.


Almond-Coconut Crunch [$10.00] | Chocolate Crémeux, Almond Sorbet
Fruity and nutty with lots of coconut here, along with some nice textural play. It could've used more of a forceful chocolate presence though, to even things out.


Baumkuchen [$10.00] | Winter Citrus Marmalade, Citrus Leaf Frozen Yogurt
The baumkuchen was somewhat reminiscent of Shomali's version at Fifty Seven. It ate very well, with the fruity, fragrant flavors really working with the zesty nuances from the frozen yogurt.


Zamorano poured us a couple digestifs to close: shots of the herby, aromatically bitter Amaro Meletti and the fruity, spicy, long-lingering Rivesaltes Rancio 2009, domaine grand guilhem.

From the outset, Morningstar and company set out to create their interpretation of the brasserie, and to that effect, their efforts are mostly successful. The food captures the core of classic French cookery, but presents it with a Californian slant that's approachable, but still interesting enough. Terrine's a drastic, drastic improvement over what occupied this space before, so hopefully Morningstar's finally found a place where he can really settle into.

Flautas (Los Angeles, CA)

February 17, 2015, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Redbird (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Terrine (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Flautas at Baldwin Hills Crenshaw Plaza
3650 W Martin Luther King Jr Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90008
323.299.9314
www.iflautas.com
Wed 1/21/2015, 07:30p-09:10p





If you’re talking about Mexican restaurants in LA, you can’t help but mention La Casita Mexicana, Ramiro Arvizu and Jaime Martin del Campo’s seminal Bell eatery that debuted back in 1998. It was one of the first to really go beyond the typical tacos and burritos that the City was used to at the time, and the duo have parlayed La Casita’s acclaim into second careers as television personalities. As such, it’s a bit surprising that the two have waited until now to expand. Yes, although Flautas (and its bigger brother, Mexicano) was first teased all the way back in April 2013, the fast-casual spot bowed just recently on January 10th, set amidst the food court at the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw Plaza shopping center.


The menu, unsurprisingly, is heavy on the flautas ("flutes"), which, for the unfamiliar, are basically deep-fried, crispy, rolled tacos with some pretty serious toppings (like a more substantial taquito). There are a dozen varieties on offer--six classic, six fancier--as well as three tortilla chip-based dishes. Click for a larger version.


Given the limited beverage selection at Flautas, we opted to BYOB. The food really does call for beer, and we began with the Calicraft Buzzerkeley, a Belgian-style golden ale. It was a refreshing start to the meal, with the beer's fruity/floral notes intermingling well with a base of yeasty, grainy flavors, the whole thing finishing dry, slightly bitter, and with a trace of metallic character.


Chicken Flautas [$5.49] | Flautas smothered with Mexican cream and topped with crispy lettuce, tomato, onion, tomato sauce, and sprinkled with cheese
The chicken flautas were perhaps the most non-threatening of the dozen, with straightforwardly classic, yet satisfying and distinctly pollo flavors nicely conveyed against the brightness of the various accoutrements present. Great crunchiness on the tortillas, too.


Mercado [$5.49] | Golden crispy, filled with chicken, smothered with Mexican cream, green tomatillo sauce and sprinkled with cotija cheese
This next preparation also featured chicken, but in a more interesting manner. Inspired by Mercado Corona in Guadalajara, they key here was that tomatillo, which added fantastic zestiness to the dish that really did a great job setting off the savoriness of the bird.


The 2014 Surly CynicAle was like a new school American take on the traditional saison. I rather liked it, with its base of spicy, farmhouse notes deftly paired with a boatload of sweet, almost dank stone fruit flavors.


Chorizo & Potatoes [$5.49] | Flautas smothered with Mexican cream and topped with crispy lettuce, tomato, onion, tomato sauce, and sprinkled with cheese
The combination of chorizo and potato sounds pretty awesome, but this didn't quite live up to expectations. Flavors were too subdued. I didn't get enough of the chorizo's trademark intensity or spice, nor did the potato make itself particularly known. That being said, the flautas still did convey a tasty bit of savoriness, and I certainly didn't mind eating them.


Ahogadas [$5.49] | Filled with slow-cooked pork meat, smothered with tomato sauce and topped with pickled onions
Next up was this "drowned" presentation of flautas, which managed to be one of my standouts. The pork itself was on point, but the crux was that sauce, which arrived richly-flavored and well-spiced, perked up by the zip of those onions up top.


Totopos Deluxe [$5.99] | Crispy tortilla chips topped with Mexican cream, beans, guacamole, chorizo, beef or chicken, sprinkled with fresh cheese, and pickled carrots and jalapeños
This nachos-like dish was tasty enough, with the pickles and guac being especially apropos, but unfortunately, the kitchen forgot to include any of the advertised meat, which rendered the dish incomplete.


We also made sure to try a couple of Flautas'agua frescas. The Lemonade with Chia Seeds [$2.99] was sweeter than you typically get, but not overly so, with the chia seeds serving as a textural element, adding a bit of viscosity to the drink.


Rajas con Queso [$5.49] | Flautas smothered with Mexican cream and topped with crispy lettuce, tomato, onion, tomato sauce, and sprinkled with cheese
Strips of poblanos were put to great use here, with the mild heat of the peppers working beautifully alongside the creaminess inherent in the dish. My favorite of the classic flauta preps.


Cochinita Pibil [$5.49] | Filled with marinated roasted pork shoulder and topped with pickled onions and habanero chile sauce
I've sort of had a soft spot for cochinita pibil ever since having it at Rivera years ago. As such, I was looking forward to trying Flautas' rendition. Sadly, it missed the mark somewhat. There were some nice citrusy accents here, and the pickled onions certainly worked well, but overall, the pork lacked the depth, the complexity of spice that I was hoping for.


Moving on to a sour beer now, we had here the 2014 Almanac Valley Of The Heart's Delight, an ale brewed with apricots, loquats, and cherries and aged in wine barrels. I quite liked this one, with its intensely tart, acidic, citrusy nuances countered by sweet fruit, oak, and a pleasant vinous character.


Pork Picadillo [$5.49] | Flautas smothered with Mexican cream and topped with crispy lettuce, tomato, onion, tomato sauce, and sprinkled with cheese
A picadillo of pork did a commendable job showcasing the inherent goodness of the meat, with the tender shards of pig pairing especially well with the crema here.


Mole Poblano [$5.49] | Crispy flautas topped with our signature traditional mole and sprinkled with sesame seeds and cotija cheese
La Casita is well-regarded for its mole, and indeed, the mole poblano did not disappoint, with its rich, complex interplay of sweet, savory, smoky, and spicy complementing the chicken admirably. I'd love to see some other mole options here as well (e.g. Colorado or verde).


Our last beer was the Bad Beat Brewing Queen Of Hearts, a sour wheat ale brewed with guava. I wasn't too into this one. The tropical fruitiness of the guava was certainly there, but the funkiness was of the off-putting type, and just didn't sit well with me. So far this brewery's 0 for 2 for me, so I think I've tasted enough (I tried another beer of theirs recently at Mexicali).


Totosquites [$4.99] | Fresh roasted corn topped with house cream sauce, cotija cheese, lemon and chili powder
Flautas' take on esquites was well received, with the sweet, buttery, creamy kernels amped up by hits of spice and citrus while the chips provided a fitting base to the dish.


Beef Picadillo [$5.49] | Flautas smothered with Mexican cream and topped with crispy lettuce, tomato, onion, tomato sauce, and sprinkled with cheese
The beef picadillo wasn't quite as interesting as the pork version, coming in a little less distinct, but was still enjoyable, with the dark flavors of the meat working well enough against the various veggies.


Shrimp Flautas [$6.48] | Filled with shrimp prepared with tomato, onion, cilantro and jalapeño pepper. Topped with creamy chipotle sauce and cotija cheese
A non-traditional flauta by the Chefs, the shrimp was arguably my favorite of the night. The camarones themselves were well-cooked, still tender and snappy, and imbued with a great brine that went superbly with the smokiness of the paired chipotle dressing.


Our second agua fresca brought out the Watermelon with Mint [$2.99], a refreshing, lightly-flavored drink displaying the restrained essence of the fruit, overarched by very subtle hints of mint.


Fried Beans [$5.49] | Flautas smothered with Mexican cream and topped with crispy lettuce, tomato, onion, tomato sauce, and sprinkled with cheese
The beans, as you might expect, lacked the fireworks of some of the other flautas, a hearty, slightly monolithic presentation overall.


Fish Flautas [$5.49] | Filled with fish prepared with tomato, onion, cilantro and a touch of chipotle chile. Smothered with tomatillo and pumpkin seed sauce and cotija cheese
Another contender for my favorite has to be the pescado, with the fish coming out full-flavored and still moist, deftly paired with the brightness of the accompanying tomatillo. The Chefs clearly have a way with seafood, so it'd be great to see them expand on that category a bit.

Though my flauta experience isn't necessarily vast, these were undoubtedly some of the best I've had, with most the dozen varieties here hitting their marks. The restaurant is the sort of place I could envision myself going to regularly, and I'd love to see this turned into a repeatable concept with multiple locations. Flautas, though, was just the appetizer. As for the main course, Mexicano, that restaurant has been pushed back a number of times but is finally open, albeit without a liquor license. Once they get that in place, you can bet that I'll be there post haste.

Redbird (Los Angeles, CA)

February 20, 2015, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Phantom Carriage (Carson, CA)

≪ Previous: Flautas (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Redbird Restaurant
114 E 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.788.1191
www.redbird.la
Tue 1/20/2015, 08:30p-12:05a




If we're talking about the most long-awaited restaurant openings in LA, Redbird must have set a record here. Situated in the Cathedral of Saint Vibiana (hence the name, which references the cardinals who used to reside here), the place is the work of Chef Neal Fraser and Amy Knoll Fraser, and serves as the sequel to the couple's restaurant Grace. After a few weeks in soft-opening mode, Redbird finally grand opened on January 7th, after being in work for over six years.

Yes, the Frasers first started formulating plans for the Vibiana in June 2008, when they began working as a preferred caterer for the event space, which, even at that time, was looking for a restaurant to fill the rectory building. Plans to open here were revealed in late 2009, and it was announced that the Frasers could move in by the end of 2010, which, as we know now, was thoroughly wishful thinking.

Grace, meanwhile, closed in June 2010, replaced by Playa (now Petty Cash), and at that time, proposals called for the restaurant to re-open at Vibiana in the first half of 2011. Following the shutter, the Chef continued operating BLD, and even made a couple appearances at the old Test Kitchen (now Sotto). In August 2011, Strand House debuted in Manhattan Beach, with Fraser serving as consulting chef, and by that December, it was reported that the new restaurant would no longer be called Grace, having gone through some changes in concept.

The following October, the Frasers' hot dog eatery Fritzi Dog opened at The Original Farmers Market, plans for ICDC (Ice Cream, Donuts, and Coffee, a dessert place with Mariah Swan) were revealed, and the Chef was back at the new iteration of Test Kitchen, this one situated at Bestia. That December, Neal and Amy officially became the sole operators and part owners of Vibiana, merging their catering business with the event space.

Bill Chait's involvement with the new restaurant was acknowledged in April 2013, and an anticipated opening date of later that year was set. Even with Chait now fully engaged, the pace of the build-out still missed 2013 by a mile, with previews taking place in October 2014. Redbird soft-opened in mid-December, and grand opened in January with a lot of familiar faces. CdC duties are handled by Jason Bowlin, a former sous at Grace who also worked at Catch at Hotel Casa Del Mar, Campiello, Jiraffe, and Granita under Lee Hefter. Austin Cobb from Strand House comes in as exec sous, while GM duties are the task of Christian Philippo (Republique, The Bazaar, Patina, Le Louis XV, Paul Bocuse).



In charge of the interior revamp was longtime collaborator Robert Weimer, who helped pen Grace, BLD, as well as Fritzi Dog. The restaurant is neatly divided into two parts. You enter through the lounge area, which seats 25 in a cozy, relaxed, quasi-mid-century inspired setting with the wine cellar on one end. Some of the furniture, I understand, came from both Grace and Playa. Most of the actual eating, however, happens in the 66-seater courtyard dining room, replete with citrus trees and a fully retractable roof. The two spaces, meanwhile, are joined by an impressive wrap-around, marble-topped bar that seats two dozen.


Redbird features a focused menu of modern American dishes, divided into sections for snacks ("kickshaws"), starters, mains, sides, and large format plates. Drink-wise, you get cocktails designed by Julian Cox (natch, given Chait's involvement) and overseen by Tobin Shea (Circa, El Cid), while wine duties are handled by Wine Director Diane Pandolfini (The Bazaar, Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, Drago, Campton Place). Click for larger versions.


To start: a complementary apéritif comprising sherry, vermouth, and raspberry syrup. Think sweet and nutty, with an oxidative tinge--a great combination of flavors that made total sense together.


Bread service was cute, with the two varieties--focaccia and a gluten free pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese bun)--arriving in a drawstring pouch. Great butter, too.


Monterey Sour [$12.00] | Gin, Lemon, Grapefruit Bitters, Egg Whites, Sauvignon Blanc, Essence of Orange
With Mr. Cox as the author of the bar program here, I of course had to make it a point to try the cocktails. Our first was excellent, my favorite of the bunch with its wonderfully aromatic nose of citrus. On the palate: an initial bite of bittersweetness led to a nutty, vinous, complex character moderated by the frothiness of egg white. Very well integrated.


Potato Crusted Smoked Pork Shank [$13.00] | romesco, charred broccolini
We commenced with a few of the bar bites. Pork arrived in spherical form, loaded with smoky, savory, unabashedly piggy flavors set off by the zing of romesco while broccolini added a great countervailing crunch and bitterness to the mix. A lovely way to start.


Head Cheese [$12.00] | fig mostarda, rye crisp
Head cheese was slightly too soft for me, as I would've liked something grittier, though its taste was on point. Nice zestiness from the greens and spiciness from the rye, though the fig rendered things overly sugary, hiding some of the inherent goodness of the cold cut.


Tempura Smelt [$12.00] | citrus spiced aioli, grilled lemon
We had here fish fries, basically, fun, crisp, briny bites smartly balanced by the pricks of citrus present. Very easy to keep popping these guys.


Little Tokyo [$12.00] | Pearl Sake, Cappelletti, Sweet Vermouth, Yuzu
Next to imbibe was certainly one of the better sake cocktails I've had. I loved the sweet, aromatic spice on the nose here, cut by the herby bitterness of Cappelletti while sake grounded the drink. Nice hits of tart citrus here, too.


Posole [$16.00] | heritage pork belly, chicanitas
I have a hard time turning away pozole, and Fraser's didn't let me down tonight. The dish did a commendable job capturing the essence of the traditional soup, with its deep, earthy, spicy flavors really complementing the fattiness of the pork belly. Great textures here as well, especially with those crispy bits of chicanitas. This is one you probably want to get.


Santa Barbara Sea Urchin [$20.00] | north sea shrimp, nori, wasabi snow
Up next was the most avant garde plate of the night, and one of my favorites as well. I appreciated how the lush, creamy nature of the uni was showcased alongside the shrimp, which lent a salinity that really underpinned the dish. However, the crux was the interplay between the nori and wasabi, the conflux of umami and heat that brought out the best in the proteins. Very cool.


Chicken Pot Pie [$14.00] | thigh, heart, thyme, chanterelles
I can't resist a good pot pie, and Redbird's was just what I was looking for. Think classic, comfy, homey flavors, with the chunky, hearty cuts of chicken and veggies perfectly matched with the pie's flaky crust. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


Kinsale King [$12.00] | Irish Whiskey, Stout Reduction, Lemon, Barrel Aged Bitters
I'm a bit of a sucker for shandies, and this particular one was a standout. Bitter on the nose, the drink's base emphasized a boozy sweetness, accented by a pinch of citrus, but the key was that finish, redolent of smooth, roasty stout. Beer drinkers should definitely give this one a go.


Braised Goat Gemelli [$17.00] | rapini, fresno chili, garlic bread crumbs, poached egg
Our first pasta dish definitely delivered, showing off some deep, dark flavors of goat, cut by the bitter, crunchy broccoli rabe while the fresno added a superb underpinning of heat to the course.


New Zealand Tai Snapper Crudo [$18.00] | yuzu kosho, shiso, meyer lemon, california olive oil
Crudo of snapper was clean, yet imbued with a palpable brine. At the same time, olive oil lent a weightiness to the fish, and the zesty lemon and shiso really lifted the course. Great bit of sour heat from the yuzukosho overarching things, too.


La Belle Farms Foie Gras [$28.00] | pistachios, cocoa nibs, quince, cider jelly, brioche
Given the recent lifting of the foie gras ban, we naturally felt compelled to order the liver. The foie arrived rich and silky, with its potent flavors augmented by a confluence of nutty, sweet nuances. My favorite part? Those lentils, which did a fantastic job moderating everything here.


The Good Bishop [$12.00] | Barolo Chinato, Tequila, Amaro, Lemon, Cinnamon, Allspice Tincture
Given the venue, I had to try the sole ecclesiastically-monikered cocktail on the list. It gave up a load of floral, herbal, cinnamon-y notes, offset by the lemon, while the tequila imparted the necessary heft to the drink.


Rabbitchetta [$28.00] | anson mills polenta, pea tendrils, thyme sauce
Our first of the mains brought what amounted to a leporine porchetta (seemingly the preferred pig dish of the moment). The roulades of rabbit were super savory, slight smoky, and rather delicious, yet tempered in potency by the brightness of pea tendrils. Polenta made for a good match to the protein, though I wanted less sweetness on it.


Gnocchi Sardi [$22.00] | maine lobster, nettles, black trumpets
I was a fan of Fraser's gnocchi course as well, being particularly impressed at how well-prepared the lobster was. The crustacean came out snappy and sweet, with a focused brine to it that paired beautifully with the tangy nettles.


John Dory [$32.00] | fregola, mussels, morcilla, flavors of bouillabaisse
Our final savory course comprised John Dory, a firm, super savory, super saline fish with a pleasingly crisp crust. Mussels and morcilla further augmented the rich flavors at play, and the bouillabaisse-inspired broth further enhanced the experience. Fregula, meanwhile, made for some textural contrast.


Desserts at Redbird are the charge of Pastry Chef Jashmine Corpuz, an LA restaurant veteran who's worked at the likes of Jonathan Club, Bottega Louie, Ink, Drago Centro, Patina, Bastide, Craft, and Campanile. Click for a larger version.


Chocolate Caramel Bar [$12.00] | bourbon chocolate, smoked pecans, bananas foster ice cream
The essential chocolate dessert was more interesting than most, pairing the rich, coffee-tinged notes of the chocolate with a smokiness that enveloped the entire dish. The fruitiness of the banana imparted balance and lightness, and the varied textures here were much appreciated as well.


Cashew Semifreddo [$12.00] | mango, sablée, passionfruit sherbert
The semifreddo was also one of the more unconventional that I've had, with bright, tropical fruit flavors working well alongside the nuttiness of the custards. Nice crunchiness going on, and the butteriness of the sablée was well-placed, too.


Black Walnut Cake [$12.00] | poached pear, cahoots saison, humboldt fog ice cream
Our last dessert was probably my favorite of the bunch. It was sort of like a reimagined cheese plate, with the walnut cake giving up a nutty, sweet, intriguing flavor profile that linked up well with the sugary pear and saison jelly. The best part, though, was that goat cheese ice cream, with its lactic, pungent kick completing the experience.

Redbird is a restaurant many years in the making, and I'll say that we left quite satisfied with the place. The cooking's got a new American slant to it (not surprising given the Chef's background), but seems to draw from all over the place. It's more modern, more casual than what was ever served at Grace, and in my estimation, superior. The restaurant's a great fit for the Vibiana space, and another strong addition to the LA scene. As for what's next for the Frasers, they're still working on their long-delayed ICDC dessert shop, which is going to occupy the back part of BLD, so look out for that in the coming months.

Phantom Carriage (Carson, CA)

January 24, 2015, 3:10 pm

≫ Next: Aestus (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: Redbird (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Phantom Carriage Brewery
18525 S Main St, Carson, CA 90248
310.538.5834
www.phantomcarriage.com
Sat 1/24/2015, 03:10p-05:25p





LA's beer scene has evolved quite a bit in the last several years, and we're now at a point where we can have a brewery specializing in farmhouse and barrel-aged sour beers (and that's in addition to the sour projects from both The Bruery and Beachwood). Named after a Swedish horror film, Phantom Carriage is billed as a "small-batch beer endeavor" and has been brewing since at least early 2013. However, the tasting room debuted just recently, and given my penchant for the puckering stuff, I made it a point to go check them out.

Phantom Carriage is the brainchild of Martin Svab, a Czech immigrant whose family has run a tavern back in the fatherland for generations. He moved to Southern California to study screenwriting at UCLA, then worked in film production before getting into the beer biz, starting as a sales rep for Stone, where he worked for two and a half years. Svab then served as assistant general manager at Naja's Place in Redondo Beach for an additional three-plus years. During his time there, he partnered with Gianni Diaz and launched The Gentleman Scholar, a craft brewer that managed to release one beer in October 2009, the Requiem Espresso Stout, produced at the defunct Skyscraper Brewing in El Monte. It was at Naja's where he met Simon Ford, a patent attorney and fellow beer buff who was also a member of the local Pacific Gravity homebrew club. The two got to talking, and soon decided to get the ball rolling on Phantom Carriage, bringing on partner Jackson Wignot in the process.

In September 2012, Ford started brewing out of Henry Nguyen's Monkish Brewing Co in Torrance, and managed release their first batch of beer the following February. Phantom Carriage began showing up at local watering holes--think Naja's, City Tavern, BrewCo, Beachwood, Stout, Simmzy's, Library Alehouse--and even made an appearance at the Firestone Walker Invitational Beer Fest. Given the positive response from the community, Svab and company started looking out for a facility of their own, and eventually signed a lease for their current spot in November 2013. After making another appearance at the Firestone Fest the next May, the team started the build out of the space in June 2014, and wound up soft opening on December 19th. On-site is a three-barrel brewing system that'll mainly be used for making pilot batches and other one-offs. Most of the beer will be brewed at other facilities such as Monkish, but will be transported here for fermenting, aging (they have a couple hundred oak wine and spirit barrels currently), and blending.


Phantom Carriage spans over 7,000 square-feet, and inside, things are surprisingly dark (your eyes will take some time to adjust). Walls of wine barrels line the place, and there's even a private tasting room and a small theater to boot. The overall vibe that they were going for is one of a Belgian beer cafe.


On draft are four of Phantom Carriage's own beers, along with eight guest taps (though I imagine this ratio will change in the future as their production ramps up). That's joined by a number of beers, ciders, meads, sodas, and even kombuchas available by the bottle, a couple spirit-less cocktails, and a handful of wine. To eat, you get beer-appropriate bites that include barbequed meats from Steve Francis of the defunct Pinkie's BBQ in Hermosa Beach. Click for larger versions.


Naturally, we had to begin with a sampler of all four Phantom Carriage brews:

• "leapwood" | 5.1% abv | french-style saison [$1.50/3.5oz]: The lightest of the beers here--fruity and grainy with a subtle farmhouse earthiness. Pleasantly refreshing.
• "muis" | 6.5% abv | wild belgian-style blonde w/ 100% brett [$1.50/3.5oz]: Flemish for "mouse," this was the brewery's first beer. Smells of massive apricot and tropical fruit intertwined with blue cheese, and tastes of musty, barnyard funk.
• "cushing" | 11.1% abv | barrel-aged strong golden sour [$3.50/3.5oz]: My favorite of the quartet, with a nose redolent of dark fruit and vinous notes. More wine-like qualities on the palate, along with a palpable tartness and oaky character.
• "pleasence" | 6.3% abv | barrel-aged lambic-inspired ale [$3.50/3.5oz]: Very bright, very tart, with a dry, oaky tanginess. A bit gueuze-like I guess you could say.

Brisket Sandwich [$12.00] | hickory smoked beef brisket. sourdough baguette. au jus. pickle. kettle chips.
Of course, we made sure to order copious amounts of food to help wash down the beer. The brisket here was appropriately tender, with pretty good flavor, though I could've used more smoke. The house-made pickle was on point, as were the chips (sourced from Boulder Canyon).


Baked Bavarian Pretzel [$3.00] | coarse ground salt. house beer cheese sauce.
I have a hard time turning down a pretzel, and the example here was well-textured, with some nice pricks of saltiness and a decent condiment in the form of that beer cheese sauce.


three 25 coffee | "50/50 blend" | 0.0% abv | cold press coffee (on nitro) [$5.00/10oz]
In addition to beer, Phantom Carriage also had cold press coffee from local roaster Three 25 Coffee on tap. I found this one fruity, light, and pleasingly bitter, with a great aromatic nose.


Smoked Turkey Sandwich [$10.00] | house smoked turkey breast. chipotle mayo. miche bread. pickle. kettle chips.
The turkey was fairly prototypical, with just a whisper of smoke here and there.


Phantom's Phritos [$7.00] | house-baked bbq beans. fritos. hickory-smoked pulled pork. jalapeños. shredded sharp cheddar.
The tasting room's take on Frito pie was well intentioned, though it didn't come together as well as I'd hoped. Pulled pork was smoky, and subtly spicy, but at too cold of a temperature, and the beans didn't quite integrate here either. A bit disjointed. Nice crunch from the actual Fritos, though.


virtue cider | "lapinette" | 6.2% abv | norman-style cidre brut; aged in french oak barrels [$6.00/10oz]
We also tried a cider. I wasn't too fond of this one, finding it overly light, overly thin. I wanted more actual apple, more funk, more sweetness, more depth to it.


Smoked German Beer Brat [$9.00] | bratwurst. artisan baguette. grilled vegetables or sauerkraut. pickle. düsseldorf mustard. kettle chips.
Bratwurst arrived perhaps a bit too delicately flavored, but was still tasty, especially with some of that zippy mustard and kraut.


Oven Baked Tater Tots [$7.00] | sprinkled with grated sharp english cheddar. three house dipping sauces.
Tots were somewhat inconsistently cooked--some over and tough, some under and limp--though I didn't mind too much, particularly when they were taken with a dab of the included sauces (a tangy ketchup, surprisingly spicy mustard, and creamy ranch).


bières de chimay s.a. | "dorée" | 4.8% abv | small-batch trappist golden-ale [$6.50/8oz]
I also made sure to try Chimay's patersbier (intended to be drunk at the monastery), which I actually hadn't had before. I rather enjoyed the lightweight ale, with its spicy, grainy, hoppy aromas and floral, fruity flavors meshing well.


Pulled Pork Panini [$10.00] | house smoked pork. ciabatta roll. coleslaw. house bbq sauce. pickle. kettle chips.
The pulled pork was a touch dry, but still palatable, and had a smokiness that paired well with the sweetness of the BBQ sauce. The crunch and acidity from the slaw on the side was appreciated, too.


Grilled Cheese Sandwich [$8.00] | seasonal three cheese medley. miche bread. kettle chips. pickle.
The grilled cheese was probably our favorite of the sandos, with a very straightforward, focused cheesiness to it that melded well with the bread.


Before dessert, we opened up a bottle of the limited-edition 2015 AleSmith Beer Geek Speedway, an imperial oatmeal stout with Kopi Luwak coffee that'd just been picked up from the brewery earlier in the day. Produced in collaboration with Mikkeller, the beer made use of the infamous civet-sourced coffee. I'm not sure if that made a huge difference here, but this was still a fine brew nonetheless, with bittersweet, lightly fruited notes of coffee intermingled with the base beer's roast and malt. Smooth, with just a smidge of alcoholic heat toward the close.


Campfire Smores [$3.00] | graham crackers. artisan chocolate. marshmallows.
Smores were satisfying, coming out all chocolate-y and gooey, though not really imbued with much campfire character.

Phantom Carriage's sour program looks to be pretty promising, so I'm excited to find out where they take it from here. Bottles, I'm told, will be coming sooner rather than later, and I'd love to see some fruited beers from them, too. The kitchen, meanwhile, could certainly use some work, though I'm heartened that they even offer anything in terms of eats. More food equals more drinking capacity, after all.

Aestus (Santa Monica, CA)

February 3, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Scopa Italian Roots (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Phantom Carriage (Carson, CA)

$

0

0

Aestus Restaurant
507 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
424.268.4433
www.aestusrestaurant.com
Tue 2/3/2015, 08:00p-11:05p





One of the latest additions to the SaMo dining scene debuted on January 8th. Aestus (Latin for "heat," roughly) is brought to us by Kevin O'Connor, co-owner of Lioco winery and former wine director at Spago. Helming the kitchen is Alexandre Ageneau, David Feau's right-hand man at The Royce whom we last saw at Bistronomics with Jet Tila. Though Bistronomics was supposed to go permanent, plans fell through, and Ageneau was then slated to become consulting chef at The Colonial, that defunct wine bar concept from David Haskell, Carolyn Reyes, and Mary Anne Reyes (situated at the current site of L'Assiette). That never happened, however, and he ended up leaving for Chicago in October 2012, becoming Executive Chef of Paris Club, a brasserie from the Lettuce Entertain You group. Ageneau left the Windy City in the second half of 2013, and took a consulting gig at HomeState in Los Feliz before coming to work on Aestus.


Aestus occupies the bottom floor of the Arezzo apartment building, just a stone's throw from Brilliantshine. The space was penned by MASS Architecture & Design (Lukshon), and features a handsome mid-century-modern-esque vibe. There's seating for up to 60, plus another 15 at the bar.


As for Aestus' menu, Ageneau's got a European-inspired, Cal-modern array of shareable plates going on. Drink-wise, O'Connor's put together a nice wine list, and cocktails come from Bar Director Marissa Grasmick, who previously worked at The Varnish at The Bitter Bar in Boulder, CO. Click for larger versions.


brandy alexander [$14.00] | cognac, crème de cacao, whipped honey cream, nutmeg
A Brandy Alexander is almost always a good choice, and Aestus' rendition was no exception. Loved the intoxicatingly sweet-n-spicy nose of nutmeg here, and how that worked with the frothy, chocolate-y nature of the drink, with the brandy peeking through just enough.


charcuterie board [$21.00]
Given that Ageneau started out as a charcutier, we had to give the housemade charcuterie a go, served here with pickles and a delightful whole grain mustard. Right to left:

• Duck Pâté - Arguably my favorite of the bunch, all rich and peppery and delicious.
• Pork Rillettes - Very porky, fatty, and creamy, with a saltiness to it, just how rillettes should be.
• Smoked Duck - Savory and expectedly smoky, with a good amount of fat and a satisfying chew to it.
• Boudin Blanc - A delicate and relatively mild pork sausage with a fine-grained consistency.
• Paprika Cured Ham - Salty and spicy, but well balanced and nicely textured.

pedro's word [$17.00] | mezcal, lime juice, green chartreuse, maraschino
Our second cocktail was a bit more bracing, with the mezcal, maraschino, and Chartreuse combining to form a smoky, sharply astringent sensation accented by the sourness of lime.


fried smelts + crudités [$14.00] | 'sea' sar dressing, bottarga
Fish fries were straightforward in their savoriness, amped up by the tangy dip while the bottarga intensified their natural salinity. The veggies, meanwhile, were almost as gratifying: crisp, crunchy vessels on which to really go to town with the dressing.


golden quinoa bowl [$12.00] | persimmons, beets, almonds
The quinoa read like the requisite "healthy" dish, but was actually much more interesting than expected. It was indeed light in presentation, but also satisfying in its combination of crunch, nuttiness, and subdued sweetness. I was especially fond of the persimmons here, which I usually don't care for.


fancy free [$10.00] | bourbon, maraschino, orange bitters, angostura bitters
Our next drink was a modified Old Fashioned of sorts, with the sugar/water swapped out for maraschino and orange bitters. I found it expectedly classic in essence, with a beautifully aromatic nose of sweet citrus leading to a boozy, bitter flavor profile.


seared foie gras [$25.00] | endives, dates, gingersnap
Foie was a must try, naturally, given how deprived of the ingredient we've been over the past couple years. The example tonight was well-seared, creamy and lush, but with a nice crust to it. Its refined, yet focused flavors were beautifully matched to the endive, which imparted both bitterness and crunch to offset the heft of the liver. And as you can see, in terms of presentation, the Chef clearly likes to "hide his meat," a theme that would be repeated throughout the night.


grilled octopus salad [$16.00] | fennel, radish, clementine
Octopus arrived appropriately tender, with its sweet-saline qualities perked up by the zip of the fennel-radish combo. I really would've liked to have seen some more charring going on here, though.


house gin & tonic [$12.00] | gin, house tonic, maraschino, orange bitters, soda
Aestus' take on the ubiquitous G&T was well-appreciated, with its classic, botanical flavors energized by bittersweet nuances from the maraschino and bitters.


cauliflower soup [$10.00] | apple, hazelnuts
A potage of cauliflower clearly showcased the subdued flavors of one of my favorite vegetables. Hazelnuts added a much-needed crunch and nuttiness to the mix, and the slight tartness of the apple made sense, too. I wanted more depth, more richness to the soup, though.


roasted carrots + goat cheese [$13.00] | kumquats, vadouvan, argan oil
Carrots were presented in a couple ways here, with the weight of the sugary, charred examples keenly offset by the bitter, crunchy strips present. Vadouvan, meanwhile, imparted warmth to the dish, while the goat cheese gave up a light, lactic creaminess that helped tie all the elements together.


shanghai buck [$11.00] | rhum, ginger syrup, lime, soda
This version of the traditional buck was the easiest-drinking cocktail of the night, a light, effervescent concoction with a bright nose of citrus and spicy, creeping notes of ginger.


john dory [$36.00] | celery root, grapefruit, hazelnut
Getting into the larger plates now, the Dory showed off its signature, sharp brine, with the fish's firm, fulfilling bite nicely played against the juicy grapefruit. There was an overabundance of hazelnut, however, which rendered the dish too nutty.


sweet & sour brussels sprouts, pecans [$8.00]
I couldn't resist the Brussels of course. The sprouts delivered, coming out sweet and tangy, yet still bitter and well-charred.


pink lady [$14.00] | gin, apple brandy, grenadine, egg white, lemon
I was also quite fond of the Pink Lady, another old-school cocktail that really did a great job balancing the fruity flavors of grenadine with contrasting elements of egg, apple, and lemon, all while the gin served as a spicy base to the drink. Not nearly as girly as its name would imply.


braised pork belly [$24.00] | cabbage, turnips, sesame
This pork was a reworked version of a dish that I'd had back in 2011 at Bistronomics. The belly was tender and toothsome, with its piggy potency countered by the bright, bitter crunch of the cabbage and turnips while the sesame-laced broth gave up a delightfully Asian-y tinge to the course.


yukon gold wedge fries, chive crème fraiche [$8.00]
French fries were cut thick and conveyed the very essence of potato. Superb with a dab of the light, tangy condiment.


To pair with our mains, GM/Sommelier Ian Harris (from Reynard in Brooklyn's Wythe Hotel) recommended a white Burgundy, the 2010 Rollin Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc [$76]. It was a delicious choice, with clean, clear floral and lemony notes abound, tempered by a crisp minerality. Very drinkable, with good length.


mushrooms and kale fricassee [$8.00]
Mushrooms were the star here, their trademark earthiness foiled by the comparative austerity of kale.


farrotto [$19.00] | swiss chard, shitake, poached egg
Farro risotto displayed a pleasing texture, with the soft, but still substantial grains tied together by cheese and poached egg while the shiitakes added a lovely depth to the dish. Good use of the chard as a counterpoint to boot.


scallops 'a la plancha' [$32.00] | cannellini beans, mussels, chorizo
Our final savory brought out scallops, which came out loaded with caramelized nuances and a palpable salinity, augmented even further by the ocean-y essence of the mussels. I was a big fan of how the spice of the chorizo elevated and accented the dish, as well as how the cannellinis moderated all the strong flavors at play.


chocolate ganache, orange [$9.00]
First up was the chocolate dessert, which set the classically sweet flavors of the ganache against juicy notes of tart citrus. Nice textures here, too.


poached apple, crème fraîche ice cream [$9.00]
Our next dessert featured a sweet, spicy poached apple, a soft, yet still somewhat crisp rendition of the fruit that paired well with the nutty notes in the dish as well as the zip of that ice cream.


millet pudding, cranberry coulis, pistachio crisp [$9.00]
My favorite of the trio was the millet pudding, which had some great vanilla flavors that served as a base to the tangy cranberry and delightfully crisp and savory pistachio chips. Ostensibly based on a recipe from the Chef's grandmother.

After a multi-year hiatus from the Southland, Alex Ageneau's back, and his cooking is stronger than ever, rooted in the classics, but with a modern, lighthearted slant that makes for a welcomed addition to Santa Monica's dining scene. I hope he keeps pushing things here, and as for what's next, the Chef teased that he's working on a smaller, higher-end place, so we'll be looking forward to that.

Scopa Italian Roots (Los Angeles, CA)

March 4, 2015, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Dia de Campo (Hermosa Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: Aestus (Santa Monica, CA)

$

0

0

Scopa Italian Roots
2905 W Washington Blvd, Venice, CA 90292
310.821.1100
www.scopaitalianroots.com
Fri 1/30/2015, 07:30p-11:25p





One of the hottest spots to pop up in Venice in recent times is Scopa, which bowed back in November 2013. The restaurant features the Italian-American stylings of Top Chef alum Antonia Lofaso, and is a place that I'd been wanting to try for well over a year now.

About the Chef: Lofaso was born in 1977 to Italian-American parents from New York, and started cooking for family and friends at an early age. After finishing high school, she attended the French Culinary Institute, and during this period, dated rapper Heavy D, with whom she had a child, Xea Myers, in early 2000. Upon graduating from the FCI, she moved to Los Angeles in 2001, finding work at Wolfgang Puck's seminal Spago, where she toiled for six years under Lee Hefter. Lofaso left the iconic eatery in 2007 for an Executive Chef position at SBE's new Foxtail, which opened in February 2008. Around this time, she also competed on Season 4 of Top Chef, coming in at fourth place, behind the likes of Richard Blais and winner Stephanie Izard. Foxtail, however, turned into a nightclub that September, and closed in August 2009. Following her performance on TC, Lofaso made a brief appearance on Top Chef Masters that summer, assisting Hubert Keller in an Elimination Challenge (along with Elia Aboumrad and Spike Mendelsohn). At the end of 2010, she participated in Top Chef All-Stars, placing third behind Mike Isabella (her distant cousin, it turns out) and old rival Blais.

The Chef then partnered up with Steve Livigni and Pablo Moix from La Descarga/Harvard & Stone/Pour Vous, as well as Sal Aurora and Mario Guddemi of Hollywood's Happy Ending, and debuted Studio City's Black Market in June 2011. The restaurant was well received, and in 2012, Lofaso released The Busy Mom's Cookbook: 100 Recipes for Quick, Delicious, Home-Cooked Meals (re-released in fall 2013 in paperback) and also starred in Game Show Network's Beat the Chefs. The next August, she landed a judging role on Food Network's Alton Brown-hosted Cutthroat Kitchen, along with Simon Majumdar and Jet Tila. More importantly for us, she teamed up with her Black Market partners once again and launched Scopa in November 2013, with Moix behind the bar, Livigni managing the FOH, and Ashley Ragovin of Trois Mec/Animal/Osteria Mozza fame as Wine Director (she later moved to Superba Food + Bread and Marvin). August 2014 saw Lofaso compete on Top Chef Duels, where she scored a win against Mike Isabella, and simultaneously, she also made an appearance on NBC's Food Fighters, hosted by Adam Richman.


Scopa occupies the address of the longstanding Szechwan Restaurant, which closed in May 2013 after a whopping 31 years in business. The space has been thoroughly revamped and stripped, naturally, and the former 1980's style digs are now swathed in dark wood and leather, while exposed brick also makes an appearance. The bar dominates most of the room, and there's even a private dining area on the second floor.


Scopa's menu reads Cal-Italian-American, divided into sections for cold/hot antipasti, a few crudos/salads, the requisite octet of pastas, larger mains, and simple desserts. Drink-wise, cocktails are obviously a draw, as is the extensive spirit collection. The wine list is nice, meanwhile, but corkage, sadly, is not an option. Click for larger versions.


East India Cocktail [$13.00] | cognac, maraschino, pineapple, lemon
A thorough examination of the cocktail selection was certainly called for tonight. This one was a pleasant way to start things off, with the drink's citrus-y, almost tea-like aromas leading to bracing tastes of lemon and bittersweetness supported by the potency of the cognac.


Ricotta Crostini [$12.00] | parsley, olive oil, ciabatta
Ricotta was among the best I've had, super creamy and lush, drenched in EVOO and accented by zesty bits of parsley and chili flakes, a perfect accompaniment to the crusty, charred bread.


Sierra Norte [$15.00] | mezcal, aperol, pineapple, lemon, bitters
Here was one of my favorite cocktails of the evening. It smelled of intoxicating citrus and spice, and tasted of more citrus, tropical fruit, and a touch of bitterness, all interlaced with the smoky, delicious heft of mezcal.


Fried Calamari [$14.00] | squid ink, lemon
The ubiquitous dish of fried squid was taken up a notch by the inclusion of nero di seppia, which served to amplify the inherent brine of the calamari. Lovely textures here as well, and things were even better with a squirt of lemon.


19th Century [$14.00] | bourbon, cacao white, lillet rouge, lemon
This was also a standout for me. I loved the heady, chocolate-y bouquet of the cocktail, while I got more chocolate, citrus, and spicy fruit on the palate, over a base of boozy bourbon.


Fried Cauliflower [$7.00] | lemon, chives, parsley, parmigiano
Cauliflower arrived a bit softer than I'd like, but properly imbued with deep, heady, intensely savory flavors. Tasty.


Seafood Salad [$15.00] | octopus, shrimp, calamari, chili, garlic, white beans, fennel, parsley, lemon
I couldn't resist the seafood salad, and here I appreciated how each item was distinct, both in terms of taste and texture, but yet harmonious when taken together, presenting a sweet sort of brine countered by a great touch of acidity. Perhaps the best part, though, was the white bean, which did a wonderful job moderating the dish.


Paloma [$13.00] | reposado tequila, grapefruit, lime, sugar, tonic, salt
One of the lighter cocktails that we tried, this was spritzy and effervescent, with bittersweet, juicy notes of grapefruit working well over the darker, heavier flavors of tequila.


Steak Tartare [$18.00] | capers, lemon, chives, lardo toast
The tartar was classic, a spot on rendition featuring well-textured chunks of steak accented by smartly placed hits of acidity and tartness.


El Camino [$16.00] | mezcal, rye, benedictine, bitters
The second mezcal cocktail of the meal was an even more forceful presentation of the spirit. Think citrusy and smoky on the nose, while taste-wise, I got a bittersweet spice, leading to more mezcal toward the finish.


Roasted Romanesco [$8.00] | pecorino romano, hazelnuts, currants, mint
Romanesco was well charred and delightfully bitter, yet complemented by counterbalancing nuances of sweet and nutty. However, as was the case with the cauliflower above, I wanted a bit more crunchiness.


Gin Fix (raspberry) [$14.00] | gin, raspberry, lemon, sugar
Our next cocktail was bright and light, with the essence of the gin giving way to juicy, jammy flavors of raspberry nearing the back end.


Creste Rigate [$17.00] | wild mushrooms, asparagus, parmesan, bread crumb
The first of four pasta courses brought out a shape that I don't encounter too often. Creste rigate was nicely textured and joined by a rich sauce and earthy notes of mushrooms. I appreciated the use of asparagus here, which lent a bright, bitter crunchiness that lightened the dish.


Cavatelli [$16.00] | italian sausage, broccoli rabe, locatelli
Cavatelli was a winner as well. I loved the super savory, super herby bits of sausage, and how that melded with the cheese and astringent shards of rapini here.


Mamie Taylor [$13.00] | blended scotch, ginger, lime, angostura bitters, soda
Named after a late 19th century actress-slash-singer, the drink did a commendable job showcasing the spiciness of ginger and its natural accompaniments of lime and bitters, with the scotch peeking through just a bit.


Chitarra [$14.00] | pecorino, black pepper
Scopa's take on Cacio e Pepe delivered as well, with straightforward notes of cheese and pepper working beautifully with the pleasantly al dente spaghetti.


The West Side [$14.00] | vodka, orgeat, mint, cucumber, lime, angostura bitters
Scopa's "signature" cocktail was certainly the most visually arresting of the bunch. It featured a somewhat punch-like sweetness, one cut by notes of mint and citrus along with the drink's bitter backbone.


Bucatini [$19.00] | mussels fra diavolo, calabrian chili, tarragon
Bucatini came out properly textured, with a good bit of bite, and enrobed in a sweet, spicy, tangy sauce. The mussels added an additional layer of briny complexity to the dish, though unfortunately a couple of them came out muddy.


Whole Branzino [$32.00] | fennel frond, lemon, basil
The whole branzino was expertly prepared, arriving at the table tender, juicy, and loaded with savory, saline flavors perked up by a great herbaceousness.


Bullock's-Wilshire [$13.00] | bonded bourbon, demerara rum, cynar, maraschino
This one certainly takes the cake for most viscous cocktail of the night. Thickness aside, I found the cocktail expectedly boozy, with bitter and sugary notes accented by a palpable vegetal quality from the Cynar.


side of polenta [$8.00] | milk, mascarpone, parmigiano
We couldn't resist ordering a side of polenta with our mains, and this was unquestionably the most luxurious I've had, a super creamy, super cheesy preparation that definitely satisfied.


Pasta Fagioli [$19.00] | orzo, cranberry beans, turnips, fennel, thyme, basil, arugula, seeded italian bread, poached egg
Our last savory was a homey, cozy sort of course, with its classic flavors of tangy tomato accompanied by various aromatics while the cranberry beans lent heft to the dish.


The Choker [$13.00] | scotch, angostura bitters, absinthe
Our final cocktail really showcased the absinthe, presenting an intensely anise-laced nose while the palate was bitter and boozy, with the absinthe again taking center stage.


Cannoli [$7.00]
Getting into dessert now, the cannoli were among the best I've had, delightfully crisp little tubes encasing a light, sweet-but-not-too-sweet filling.


Ricotta Cheesecake [$8.00]
Given the use of ricotta, the cheesecake was lighter, fluffier than you typically get, with a tangy, lactic-like sweetness to it.


Zeppole [$8.00]
Last up were the zeppole, fried fritters that were surprisingly chewy, yet deeply flavored, with a distinct butteriness to 'em.

We had a good time at Scopa, which has gotta be the most exciting Italian joint to hit the area in a long while. The cooking's pretty straightforward and approachable, but also shows off enough lightheartedness and panache to keeps things interesting, and of course the cocktails were on point. I can certainly see why this place is so popular. It's another strong contender from Lofaso and company, and another score for Venice.

Dia de Campo (Hermosa Beach, CA)

March 8, 2015, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Pok Pok Phat Thai (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Scopa Italian Roots (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Día de Campo Restaurant
1238 Hermosa Ave, Hermosa Beach, CA 90254
310.379.1829
www.diadecampohb.com
Sun 1/25/2015, 07:00p-09:40p





I was looking for a spot in the South Bay to meet up with my old college roommate from Berkeley, and given my positive experience over at Little Sister, I decided to give Dia de Campo a go. Translated as "field day," the restaurant is the work of Chef Tin Vuong and partner Jed Sanford (e.g. Blackhouse) and is billed as a sort of "modern surf lodge." The place opened back in January last year, offering up a Mexican-inspired, seafood-leaning menu with former Abigaile Chef de Cuisine Ken Johnson at the helm.


The restaurant occupies the old location of Cafe Boogaloo, but was transformed by Bishop Pass (Abigaile, Little Sister, and also The Parish and Gjelina) into a beachier sort of affair.


Dia de Campo's menu is on the large-ish side, with a lot of familiar Mexican-ish items along with a few more unconventional selections. Note that we were here during dineLA week, so there was also that option as well, though we chose to stick with the standard carta. Click for larger versions.


As for the booze, you get a pretty interesting cocktail list, some lightweight beers, as well as a surprisingly complete array of wine. Click for larger versions.


rubi [$12.00] | tequila blanco, grapefruit, lemon, froth, home spice
We began with my favorite of the cocktails. I loved its intense, aromatic nose of sweet spice overlaid on top of juicy grapefruit notes, leading to a flavors of more citrus, frothy egg, and spice over a subtle base of tequila.


Salsa [$5.00] | negro, house chips
Salsa negra was deep and earthy, with a smokiness to it to cut the acidity of the dip. More interesting were the "chips," which actually comprised both your standard corn and flakier flour tortillas, deep-fried.


Guacamole [$8.00]
The guac was pretty prototypical, slightly chunky but imbued with a hint of spice.


la leona [$10.00] | tequila blanco, peach, lemon, mezcal
This next cocktail was more booze-forward, with the heft of the tequila serving as a stage for contrasting nuances of smoky and sweet.


Straight Ceviche [$16.00] | uni, fried garlic-chili oil, apple-celery salad
The so-called "straight" ceviche didn't seem all that straight to me. This was mostly due to the uni, which added a lushness and brine to the typical players here. Nice acidity and textures at play, though the sweetness from the citrus was a bit much.


Chocolate Duck Quesadillas [$14.00] | oaxacan cheese, salsa negra, tamarind
Quesadillas were appropriately cheesy, with the queso Oaxaca doing a great job bringing all the ducky flavors to bear here. Good flavors on the actual meat, but I wanted to taste more from the chocolate.


tia sangria [$10.00] | white wine, brandy, peach, passion fruit, citrus
The sangria was as light-hearted as you'd expect, with boatloads of peach-y sweetness intertwined with flavors of white wine.


crispy shrimp [$4.00] | pico
At this point, we ordered up some tacos. The shrimp were rather tasty, with their brine well played against the bright, crunchy veggies up top.


pollo [$3.00] | yellow mole
The chicken, meanwhile, was also enjoyable, with a particular depth to it thanks to the incorporation of that mole.


the mule [$12.00] | cucumber infused vodka, del maguey vida, lime, ginger beer
The restaurant's take on the traditional Moscow Mule was tarted up by the inclusion of cucumber and mezcal. Taste-wise, this was pretty classic, with clean, refreshing flavors overarched by just a whisper of the Del Maguey.


carnitas [$3.00] | tomatillo avo
The pork was a touch drier than I'd prefer, but was on point flavor-wise, especially when taken with its accompaniment of crisp red cabbage and the substantial, house-made tortilla.


Wood Grilled Octopus [$10.00] | salsa verde, oven roasted tomato, radish salad
Octopus arrived well-charred and loaded with briny goodness, a good match to the zing of the salsa verde. The paired salad was effective, and made for a counterpoint to the protein, especially when everything was rolled into taco form.


french flamme [$10.00] | the botanist, cointreau, aperol, lemon, "fire agua"
The last cocktail made for a fine conclusion to our drinks. Some great bittersweet, citrus-y notes in this one, all underpinned by a persistent, yet restrained touch of heat.


Shrimp & Chorizo Enchiladas [$19.00] | salsa verde, crispy queso, chile ranch
The enchiladas didn't look very pretty, but were a surprise hit this evening. The combo of shrimp and chorizo worked out beautifully, with the mild salinity of the former well matched with the spicy savor of the latter, all while layers of salsa and cheese helped bring it all together.


Caramelized Cauliflower [$9.00] | onions, egg, cotija
I couldn't resist ordering the cauliflower, and it was also another standout, with the rich, caramelized flavors of the veggie enhanced by the application of egg and cheese.


We were initially going to pass on dessert given our fullness, but decided to opt for a twosome for completeness' sake. Click for a larger version.


YoYo's [$9.00] | coconut cake, spiced guava jam, toasted coconut
These cakes, unfortunately, went overly saccharine, with the sugariness of the guava overwhelming the coconut notes in the dessert.


Potted Tres Leches [$9.00] | sea salt-chili, spiced hazelnuts
The tres leches, on the other hand, made a strong showing for itself, with the traditional sweetness of the dessert melding seamlessly with the spice and hazelnuts to make for a very satisfying end to the meal.

Dia de Campo isn't a groundbreaking sort of place, but we still had an enjoyable experience here. Indeed, the restaurant isn't as ambitious as Little Sister, but delivered on what it promised: approachable Mexican-inspired fare that's both familiar, but still fun and interesting enough. Not a game-changer, but a good fit for the locale to be sure.

---

Pok Pok Phat Thai (Los Angeles, CA)

March 11, 2015, 7:25 pm

≫ Next: Coin de Rue Pop-Up (Beverly Hills, CA)

≪ Previous: Dia de Campo (Hermosa Beach, CA)

$

0

0

Pok Pok Phat Thai at Far East Plaza
727 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.628.3071
www.pokpokphatthaila.com
Sat 2/14/2015, 07:25p-10:15p





First came the likes of Roy Choi's Chego, and then Starry Kitchen, Scoops, and now we've got Pok Pok Phat Thai, perhaps the most significant debut to hit the Chinatown dining scene thus far. Situated in C-Town's Far East Plaza just steps from Chego (in the old Hoan Kiem spot), the place debuted on December 31st and is a casual, quick-service outpost of Andy Ricker's game-changing Pok Pok in Portland (a NYC location opened in 2012). I'd been wanting to visit for a while, but limited hours (dinner on weekends was just recently added) kept me away until now.


Pok Pok Phat Thai's menu features an abbreviated selection of starchy Thai staples--including multiple variationsz` of the restaurant's eponymous dish--joined by a daily special (apparently sold out tonight). To imbibe, pretty much all you get is Som drinking vinegar, tea, and coffee, so we just sat outside on the picnic tables and BYOB'd it. Click for larger versions.


We began with a new-ish local release, the 2015 Three Weavers Yuzu Messenger IPA, a collaborative ale brewed with the folks at Noble Ale Works. Thanks to the incorporation of yuzu zest, the beer was super juicy, super citrusy on the nose, with plenty more sweet-tart fruit on the palate and a crisp, bitter backbone to liven things up. Surprisingly good.


One of the criticisms that has been heavily echoed in the past few weeks is that the food here isn't quite punchy enough. I'm conjecturing that it's because it hasn't been communicated effectively to diners that we're supposed to add condiments to taste (ostensibly the way it's done in Thailand): sugar (naam tan) for sweetness, chile powder (phrik phon) for spice, vinegar with mild green chilies (phrik naam som) for tartness/heat, and fresh chile-fish sauce (phrik naam plaa) for umami/heat.


Phat Thai Ruam [$11.50] | Thin rice noodles cooked in rendered pork fat with tamarind, fish sauce, palm sugar, peanuts, dried tofu, dried shrimp, preserved radish, egg, garlic chives, bean sprouts and chili powder. With 1/2 prawns and 1/2 ground pork
Naturally, we had to commence with Phat Thai's eponymous dish, a rendition grounded by an undercurrent of funky, umami goodness courtesy of the kung haeng. The interplay between the chives, sprouts, and egg was also much appreciated, as was how the included shrimp were well-cooked and not overdone. A squirt of lime served as a great accent point in the dish, but I enjoyed it even more with a dash of extra fish sauce, which imparted further depth to the noodles. Definitely a nice change of pace from the overly sugary presentations that you typically encounter Stateside.


Pok Pok Som Drinking Vinegar [$4.00] | celery
Ricker's well known for his drinking vinegars by this point, so we felt compelled to sample a few. The first variant was slightly disconcerting for me, as the combination of celery and vinegar resulted in a vegetal, sweet, sour, pickle-like concoction that I found a tad off-putting.


Phat Phak Buung Muu [$10.00] | Water spinach stir fried with pork, garlic, Thai chilies, preserved yellow beans, oyster and fish sauces, served with jasmine rice.
Ong choy was put to good use, with a pleasing crunch and a satisfying savoriness to the veggie that was enhanced by the use of pork. I quite liked the creeping heat on the finish here, and again, a drizzle of extra phrik naam plaa didn't hurt either.


Next to imbibe was the 2015 The Bruery Jardinier, a Belgian-style pale ale that's meant to be sessionable (something you usually don't associate with The Bruery). It was a laudable effort given what they were shooting for here. The beer smelled fresh, spicy, witbier-esque, and tasted much the same, with a refreshing hoppy character that made it all the more interesting.


Phat Sii Ew [$9.00] | Fresh wide rice noodles, pork, Chinese broccoli, egg and black soy sauce stir-fried in a smoking hot wok. Cooking method studiously lifted from Yok Faa Poohana, a favorite Chiang Mai street side restaurant. Had to eat there about 50 times before trying to cook the dish...but had it figured after the second or third visit. Simple is best!
Pok Pok's take on the ubiquitous pad see ew was a gratifying plate, with the wide, supple noodles working well alongside the egg and pork, the phak khana adding a wonderful crunch and bitterness to the fray. Try this with a further sprinkle of tangy vinegar on top.


The 2015 The Bruery Or Xata was undoubtedly the most intriguing beer of the evening. A blonde ale brewed with rice, cinnamon, vanilla bean, and lactose, this one really did recall its namesake, giving up all the sweet, spicy nuances that you'd expect in an horchata. Surprisingly light; I'd actually like to see the same flavor profile presented in a creamier, heftier beer.


Kuaytiaw Khua Pet [$12.00] | Fresh locally made wide rice noodles stir-fried in rendered pork fat with duck, cuttlefish, egg and green onions, served on chopped lettuce. A Bangkok Chinatown specialty.
Following was probably my favorite item of the night. The crux here was the charring on those dense, thick noodles, which gave up absolutely lovely notes of bitterness and crunch that really made the dish. The duck, meanwhile, came out appropriately "ducky," and the interplay between egg and onion was spot on as expected. The lettuce almost seemed slightly discordant here, but I eventually came to appreciate the lightness and crispness it imparted to things. And again, it didn't hurt to fold in some extra vinegar, fish sauce, and chile to amp things up even more.


Pok Pok Som Drinking Vinegar [$4.00] | Thai basil
Our next drinking vinegar was more to my liking, with the light, spicy aromatics of the horapha flitting around swimmingly over a base of sweet 'n' sour flavors.


Hoi Thawt [$9.00] | Crispy broken crepe with steamed fresh mussels, eggs, garlic chives and bean sprouts, served with Thai Sri Racha sauce. Thai street vendor's specialty, popular in night markets.
The hoi thawt was a favorite of mine over at the original Pok Pok, and delivered again tonight. There was a really satisfying savoriness to the dish, augmented by the brine of those mussels, and I loved how the bean sprouts imparted levity and how the egg brought everything together. Great hit of heat from the included cup of Siracha, too.


We took a brief detour from beer and opened a bottle of Julian Hard Cider Apple Pie next. Fruity and loaded with cinnamon-y spice, this one really did capture the essence of its namesake dessert.


Khao Phat Kung [$11.00] | Stir-fried jasmine rice with prawns. With green onion, garlic, egg, fish sauce. Served with sliced cucumber and lime. Classic Thai one plate meal.
You can't go too wrong with fried rice, and Pok Pok's rendition was thoroughly on point, with its well-textured shrimp dutifully accompanied by all the tastes and textures that you'd want.


Shrimp Chips [$2.00]
Shrimp chips were delightfully crunchy, airy, and light, imbued with a subtle salinity and almost dissolving on the palate.


And now for a heavier beer: the newly-released 2015 The Bruery Freckle was an imperial stout made with cacao nibs and spices, designed to mimic the rich flavors of Mexican mole. I quite liked it, finding the traditional roasty, malty flavors of the stout well-paired with the luscious chocolate and zesty spice notes here. It was almost cake-like to me.


1/4 lb House-Roasted Red Peanuts [$4.00] | Pok Pok style with lime leaf, garlic, chilies and sea salt.
I'm usually not a huge fan of peanuts, but definitely enjoyed these, their crunchy, nutty character masterfully paired with salt and spice.


Sour duties were handled by the Russian River Temptation, a blonde ale aged for a year in Sonoma Chardonnay barrels with Brettanomyces, Lactobacillus, and Pediococcus. It was expectedly delicious, with its tart, funky qualities well-matched by the distinct vinous notes tasted.


Phat Thai Jay + Haw Khai [$8.50+$1.50] | Same as regular version but vegetarian. wrapped in a thin omelette
We ended with the vegetarian variant of the pad thai, one topped with an optional egg omelet. Due to the removal of the pork fat and dried shrimp in particular, this preparation didn't have quite the depth of the regular version, but the egg certainly did enhance the dish, as did a liberal helping of nam pla.


Pok Pok Som Drinking Vinegar [$4.00] | pineapple
Our third and final drinking vinegar was my favorite, with its pure, focused, tropical flavors of pineapple really meshing well with the tart-ish base of the drink.


Sour Cream Hen House [$9.00] | marinated grilled chicken rice bowl w/ fried egg, Chinese broccoli, sour cream sambal, Thai basil, toasted sesame and chopped chilies
Given that we'd pretty much made our way through the entirety of Pok Pok's menu, we opted to end our savories with a bowl from Chego. It was one that we hadn't tried before, and it definitely satisfied with its delightfully charred, smoky, savory chicken, bitter broccoli, basil aromatics, and spicy sour cream-sambal bringing it all together.


Kafae Boraan [$4.00] | Thai coffee, made with Stumptown cold brew, condensed milk and sugar. Strong. Iced or Hot.
The coffee was quite good, bitter and sweet and refreshing all at the same time.


We happened to have a couple cherimoyas with us, and proceeded to bust them out for dessert. They were all that you'd expect: creamy and lush, with multifaceted notes of tropical fruit sweetness.


Our final drank was the 2014 Westbrook 4th Anniversary Chocolate Coconut Almond Imperial Stout, aged with toasted coconut, whole roasted almonds, and vanilla beans. It was a pretty amazing dessert beer, with an unabashedly rich base of roasty, chocolate-y flavors tarted up by notes of sweet coconut and whispers of nutty, slightly bitter almond. Smooth and surprisingly drinkable.


Last up were some homemade bourbon-vanilla marshmallows.

Ricker supposedly chose Los Angeles as the location for this restaurant due to its large Thai population and proximity to LAX-C (a.k.a. Thai Costco), and I'm glad that he did so. Despite its small menu and smaller size, Phat Thai does bring another wrinkle to LA's Thai conversation, and I'm sure people will start warming up to it eventually. This place, though, was just a tease. As for what else Ricker has cooking, a full-blown version of Pok Pok is slated to land in Mandarin Plaza down the street in the coming months, a 6,000-square-foot joint with a full bar that I'm sure will make its mark on the area.

Coin de Rue Pop-Up (Beverly Hills, CA)

February 26, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Playa Provisions (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Pok Pok Phat Thai (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Coin de Rue Pop-Up at Red Medicine
8400 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211
323.651.5500
www.facebook.com/coinderuepopup
Thu 02/26/2015, 08:00p-11:20p





I've always felt that David Féau was one of Los Angeles' unsung talents. If you recall, he helmed the kitchens at The Royce for a couple years, following the departure of Michael Voltaggio, but his tenure there, and indeed the restaurant itself, lasted only until the start of 2013, when the place shuttered to make way for a steakhouse. The Chef's initial plan was to start up a small restaurant-slash-retail shop-slash-boulangerie in South Pasadena, but sadly, those plans never came to fruition.

He instead turned to working as a culinary consultant. Notably, he took the reins at Downtown's Le Ka as consulting chef, replacing Remi Lauvand, and later revamped the menu over at Lexington Social House. He also competed against Brendan Collins on Ilan Hall's Knife Fight in August 2013, and started his own soup delivery business called jeCook the following June. The last I heard from Feau (at Plate by Plate), he was planning a restaurant in the old Lexington spot, but that obviously fell through.

For this, his latest venture, he's partnered with Adam Fleischman (Tacoteca, Smoke.Oil.Salt) to bring us Coin de Rue ("street corner"), a pop-up at the old Red Medicine space. The dining series started on February 12th and ran through the 28th (Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights only), and served as an opportunity to showcase Féau's lighter, more seasonal, more Californian take on French bistro fare.


Inside, things remain much the same as they've been since the Red Med days.


As for Coin de Rue's menu, it was based on a four-course prix fixe at $55 a head, with the option of supplemental "bar bites." We were able to BYOB this evening, and there were also cocktails from barmen Cody Summers (Copa d'Oro, The Tasting Kitchen, Los Balcones) and Hector "La Aguila" Lopez. Click for larger versions.


Rye Fawkes [$12.00] | Rye, Armagnac, all spice-Benedictine, bitters
With only three cocktails on offer, we naturally had to try 'em all, starting with this, my favorite of the troika. Lots of citrus commingled with warm aromatics on the nose here, with a taste that highlighted the spiciness of rye alongside a bitter, medicinal flavor profile.


Langue de boeuf sauce Gribiche [$10.00] | Beef tongue Tartine, Dark Rye country loaf, hard boiled eggs vinaigrette, parsley, cornichon
We began with the fivesome of bar bites, and the Chef's rendition of beef tongue made for a pleasing start. The langue came out soft and slick, with a distinct bovine quality to it that worked swimmingly with the tangy balance of the cornichons and Gribiche.


Pâté de Lapin, Kaki et romarin [$11.00] | Rabbit terrine, Persimmon and apple rosemary gelée
A pâté of rabbit was dense and rustic, with a growing savoriness complemented by the sweetness of the gelée. Even better, though, was the mustard, which added the requisite amount of piquancy to the dish.


Lavande Bulle (Lavender Bubble) [$12.00] | Calvados, lemon, lavender honey, brut
Our next cocktail was much lighter weight. The drink didn't have much of a bouquet, but tasted of floral apple and citrus, a fun and bubbly concoction to be sure.


Croque en Bouche de mousse de foie de volaille et foie gras [$10.00] | Caramel peppercorn puff filled with chicken Liver foie gras mousse
The petits choux were fun little bites. A blend of both chicken liver and foie gras, the mousse struck a balance between the power of the former and the finesse of the latter, giving up a satisfyingly deep flavor profile that paired well with the contrasting sweet and peppery notes present. Great crunch on the caramelized top, too.


The Rebel [$15.00] | Duck fat-washed Cognac, local orgeat, cherry-soaked antique bitters
The third cocktail of the night was certainly the most challenging, showing off a savory, meaty quality tempered by an undercurrent of bittersweet cherry and accents of citrus. It was an experience that I found off-putting, unfortunately.


Tartelette de Point Reyes au pavot bleu, poire pochée vin d'épice [$11.00] | Pont Reyes Tartlet, poppy seed crust, spicy red wine poached pear
Féau's tart was superb, recalling a cheese plate in essence, with the strong, pungent punch of the bleu coming in full force, moderated by the sweet spice of the fruit, the whole thing presented over a delightfully crispy base.


Bonbons de Foie gras et Truffe Noire [$20.00] | Foie Gras torchon coated with chopped Winter black Truffle
One can't go too astray with foie gras and truffles in play, and indeed, these were some decidedly decadent bites, with a blast of earthy truffle at first leading to the dense slugs of luscious liver, everything perked up by well-placed hits of salt.


Fleischman was in the house tonight, and graciously provided us tastes of his 2007 Coche-Dury Bourgogne. I quite enjoyed the wine, finding it spicy, peppery, and jammy on the nose, with a soft, silky palate that brought more fruit, minerality, and some tannic character. Easy drinking, a bit rustic, and very tasty.


1a: Soupe a l'oignon, croûtons aïllé, Comté | Vegan Onion Soup, roasted garlic bread, Comté cheese cube
Féau's soupe à l'oignon delivered with its classically dark, sweet, hearty flavors (especially impressive since this ostensibly omitted the traditional meat stock), the garlic bread adding a nice heft to the soup. The key here for me was the Comté, which imparted a gooey accent that really brought it together.


1b: Galette de sarrasin et Tartare de thon Rouge fumé, raifort grattée, chou fleur au citron, salade d'endive | Crispy Buckwheat roll, smoked yellowfin Tuna tartar horseradish, romanesco cauliflower, endive salad
Tuna showed off a wonderful smoke in this next course, its robust flavors beautifully played off of the crunch and brightness of the romanesco and endive. I would've like some more crispness on the buckwheat, though.


1c: Pied de Porc grillé, remoulade de celery aux sesame | Caramelized pig feet, celeriac slaw, toasted sesame, arugula salad
Apparently, the Chef was known for making the best pieds de cochon in Paris when we was working there during the late 1990's. That's a credible claim, given the strength of this dish, which was one of the strongest presentations of trotter I've had. The pork was beautifully textured, and just teeming with piggy goodness, the combo of celeriac and arugula providing the necessary counterweight to it all. It was a table favorite, and was described by some of us as a "porcine crab cake."


Next to imbibe was the Cidrerie Traditionnelle du Perche L'Hermitière Cidre Brut, a farmhouse cider from the Calvados region of Normandy. This is how I like my cidre: dry and acidic and funky, yet with soft, sweet notes of apple underpinning the whole experience.


2a: Carrotte à la Verveine et raifort | Carrot candy, lemon verbena, horseradish
Carrot "candy," fortunately, wasn't overly sugary, instead offering up a smart presentation of the root veggie, with its inherent saccharine qualities deftly evened out by the zestiness and aromatics of the horseradish and verbena.


2b: Oeufs Brouillées langue d'oursins embeurré de Chou | Cabbage and sea urchin soft scrambled eggs, turmeric Crab bisque
The pairing of eggs and urchin was a winning combination, as it oft tends to be, with the soft, supple eggs working as a great base for the butteriness of the uni. Even more crucial, though, was the bisque, which provided an umami-laced brine that really underscored the entire dish. I was a fan of the cabbage was well, which added both texture and a counterbalancing astringency to the mix.


2c: Salade de caille aux raisins, vinaigrette de champignon | Seared quail salad, pickled grapes, wilted bitter greens, mushroom vinaigrette
Quail was well prepared, arriving delightfully charred and dripping with a juicy, gratifying sort of savoriness to it. The bird was tasty on its own, but the bitterness of the greenery worked well as a contrasting note.


For our mains, I opened a bottle of Bordeaux, the 2007 Château Lafleur-Gazin from Pomerol. I found it to my liking, the wine coming in super jammy and earthy on the nose, while taste-wise, it had lots of pepperiness and even more fruit, as well as an offsetting tannic character.


3a: Bouillabaisse de poisson de Roche, Légumes aioli | Local fish Bouillabaisse, aioli "tradition", root vegetables
The Chef's interpretation of bouillabaisse did a commendable job showcasing the firm, flaky nature of the rockfish, its comparatively delicate flavors amped up by the richness of the broth while the veggies added a moderating element to the mix. Very good aioli too, which had a great depth to it.


3b: Canard Apicius, Salsifi aux beurre noisette, navet rose | Roasted Duck Apicius, caramelized salsifi purée, scarlet turnips
Duck was beautifully presented, and displayed deep, very "ducky" flavors that were set off by the sweet, sour, and spicy nuances present. Loved the bitterness and crunch of the turnips here, as well as the tough, jerky-like bits thrown in.


3c: Lentilles verte "du Puy" et petit pois, roquette et beurre de truffe | Green Lentils "du Puy" fresh peas Ragout, arugula truffled butter
Féau's lentils are the best I've eaten, and I've had the pleasure of consuming them multiple times at The Royce. As such, it wasn't surprising that this course was perhaps my favorite of the night. The lentils themselves were spot on--earthy and nutty and well-textured--and I loved the peas here, which provided both an offsetting brightness and crunch to the dish. Taking things over the top, meanwhile, was that beurre de truffe, which combined a lush, luxurious butteriness with the unmistakable musk of truffle. You just want to keep eating.


3d: Steak au Poivre, DFC potato, salade de cresson | peppercorn Crusted beef sirloin, brandy wine sauce, DFC potato, watercress
We ended our savories with a reworked steak au poivre. The most interesting thing here was the "DFC potato," which combined fondant, espuma, and crispy fried preparations into one multifaceted whole. I quite enjoyed it, as I did the zestiness of the cress. However, the beef itself fell short. Though it was on point flavor-wise, the meat was simply too tough, distractingly so in fact.


With the sweet stuff upon us, I brought out an appropriately "desserty" beer, the 2014 The Bruery Tawny Port Barrel Aged Sucre. Produced for the brewery's 6th anniversary, this was an English-style old ale aged in used port barrels. Think boatloads of dark fruit, malt, brown sugar, and toffee, overarched by a distinct vinous quality that really reminded you of the tawny.


4a: Tarte Tatin de Pomme, crème fraiche glacée | Apple tart Tatin, Crème fraiche Sorbet
The Chef's tarte Tatin was pretty much perfect, conveying delicious notes of sugary, caramelized apple as well as a great harmony of textures, the whole tart accented by the light, bright sorbet.


4b: Baba au Rhum, confiture d’orange sanguine, crème glacée vanille | Rum Baba, blood orange confiture, Vanilla buttermilk Sorbet
A rum baba was also delectable, with all the elements here melding into one delicious whole, the dessert coming in reminiscent of a boozy orange Creamsicle.


4c: Choco-mousse cake, crème glacée au café et chocolat au lait | Flourless Dark chocolate, milk chocolate coffee gelato
A soufflé-like cake was appropriately fluffy, with rich chocolate flavors taken up a notch by the incorporation of the gelato. Nice hot-cold contrast here to boot.


Féau at the end of the night, with Sous Chef Chris Rosenberg (La Poubelle) and CdC Ryan Kluver (who worked with David at both Lexington Social House and The Royce).

After a two year hiatus, it was a welcomed sight to have David Féau back in the kitchen cooking again. Though the food was certainly more casual than what he was putting out at The Royce, it was still able to show off the Chef's style: classic at its core, yet engaging. The question now is: what's next? The Red Med building was supposed to become The Flats with Kyle Schutte, but that deal fell through. Féau, however, isn't staying here. He's looking to do version 2.0 of the pop-up in April. He's also exploring a space in Larchmont Village for a permanent incarnation of Coin de Rue, which might be followed by a retail shop and a higher-end place. Let's cross our fingers.

Playa Provisions (Los Angeles, CA)

March 18, 2015, 7:15 pm

≫ Next: Odys + Penelope (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Coin de Rue Pop-Up (Beverly Hills, CA)

$

0

0

Playa Provisions - Dockside
119 Culver Boulevard, Playa del Rey, CA 90293
310.683.5019
www.playaprovisions.com
Thu 2/5/2015, 07:15p-10:35p





The LAX-adjacent dining scene got a lot hotter with the debut of Playa Provisions, the latest project from Top Chef alum Brooke Williamson and husband Nick Roberts. Taking inspiration from your food halls and your country marts, Playa Provisions is a four-in-one concept. You have a casual breakfast and lunch spot called King Beach, an ice cream shop called Small Batch, a small whiskey bar in the back called Grain, and what we were here for: a seafood joint called Dockside.

About the Chef: An LA area native, Williamson was born in 1979 and raised in Brentwood. She knew that she wanted to cook early on in life, and started her career at age 15 as a teacher’s assistant at the Epicurean Institute of Los Angeles. At 18, she had her first professional role of pastry assistant under Ken Frank at the Argyle Hotel's Fenix restaurant. In 1998, Williamson was hired by Michael McCarty to work at his eponymous Michael's in Santa Monica, which at the time was helmed by one Sang Yoon. She became sous after a year, but left in 2000 to stage at Daniel in New York. After returning to Southern California, she took on her first Executive Chef gig at Steven Arroyo's Boxer, where Neal Fraser first made a name for himself (now the site of La Otra Escuela).

Following a brief stint there, Williamson became EC at the new Zax in Brentwood in 2001, where she met her future husband (they married in 2007). She was even invited to cook at the James Beard House during this period, but departed the restaurant in November 2002 to focus on catering, replaced by Mario Perez of Josiah Citrin's little-known Cafe Melisse in Valencia. In 2003, she and Roberts debuted their first solo project together, Amuse Café in Venice (at the address of the current Ado). The eatery lasted until 2005, when the couple decided to partner with David Reiss to open Beechwood, also in Venice. After consulting briefly for Neomeze in Pasadena, Williamson's next project was Hudson House (named after her and Roberts' son) in Redondo, which debuted in March 2009.

She discontinued her role in Beechwood in October 2010, her head chef position filled by Jamie Lauren, and later Roy Choi, who of course turned the place into Sunny Spot. April 2011, meanwhile, saw the launch of The Tripel in Playa del Rey, and the next November, Williamson appeared on Season 10 of Top Chef (Seattle), where she finished in second place behind Barbara Lynch protégé Kristen Kish. She then parlayed her success on the show into an "expert" role on MTV's House of Food (along with Brendan Collins and Casey Lane). 2014 saw a win on Ilan Hall's Knife Fight (against Chris Shepherd of Underbelly in Houston), a loss on Top Chef Duels (against Shirley Chung, now at Twenty Eight), and the reveal of Playa Provisions in May (Dockside bowed in June).



Playa Provisions takes over the address that once held Tower 42, Playa Cantina, The Del, and La Marina Inn. It's a 7,000-square-foot space, divided into a casual dining area for King Beach and Small Batch and a more formal dining room and outdoor patio for Dockside, with Grain occupying a small room in the back.


Dockside's menu is about what you'd expect from a modern-traditional seafooder, replete with the requisite raw bar items and a lobster roll. To imbibe, you get classically leaning cocktails, a lightweight beer selection, and a small array of wines chosen by Williamson herself (she was certified by the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2010). Corkage is offered at $15. Click for larger versions.


We were also presented with the menu from Grain, which we were free to order from as well. Click for larger versions.


Honey Grain [$12.00] | Grain, Playa de Rey, CA (2014)
We started with a couple cocktails from Grain's menu. The first was an original creation of theirs, and was my favorite drink of the night: lots of sweet citrus on the nose, with a taste profile that perfectly blended the booziness present with an undercurrent of delightfully sugary honey. Very well balanced.


Lobster Roll [$19.00] | Pickled Mustard Seed, Celery & Crushed Potato Chips
It seems that I can't not order the lobster roll these days, so here we are. The lobster itself was well-textured, with an unmistakable sweetness to it offset by the mustard seed while the greenery on top added further zestiness to the dish. Nice textures from the potato chip, though I wanted more of it.


Uni Ciabatta [$6.00] | Toasted with Melted Uni Garlic Butter
Toasted ciabatta arrived sweet and buttery, with just a whisper of sea urchin goodness. I actually would've liked this more uni-forward.


Whiskey Smash [$12.00] | Jerry Thomas - Barman, New York, NY (1862)
Grain's take on the classic Smash was enjoyable, the elements of booze and citrus melding well with minty aromatics while the finish conveyed a fascinating nutty sweetness.


Connecticut Crab Roll [$26.00] | Served Warm with Drawn Butter
If we're already getting the lobster roll, it seems fitting to try the crab version as well. I think I might've preferred this one, as it did a slightly better job of showing off the inherent goodness of the star ingredient, with the sweet, saline shards of crab working well with simple accoutrements of butter, lemon, and sugary brioche bun.


Scotch Egg [$6.00] | With Turkey-Bacon Sausage, "Grain" Mustard & Espelette
The Scotch eggs were on point, their lush, runny yolks meshing beautifully with thick, savory, almost hammy layers of sausage, the espelette adding a great overarching heat to the dish at the same time. Yum.


Pendennis [$12.00] | Gin, Apricot, Lime, Peychauds, Grapefruit
Moving into Dockside cocktail list now, the Pendennis unfortunately went overly sugary, with a candied nose and more cloying sweetness on the palate, joined by the botanical notes of the gin and just a touch of citrus.


Seafood Louis Salad [$18.00] | Bay Shrimp, Crab, Lobster, Quinoa, Avocado & Papaya
Our server recommend Dockside's take on the classic Crab Louie salad, and she was right on the money with this one. The sweet, saline qualities of the three types of seafood were on proud display here, well matched by the sweet papaya, creamy avocado, and crisp green beans while the zesty dressing tied it all together. One of the best salads I've had in a long time.


Duck Confit Poutine [$14.00] | Mozzarella Curds & Duck Gravy
We had a hard time resisting the poutine, and it was an appropriately heavy preparation, with loads of salty, ducky savor commingled with creamy mozz and a rich, duck-enriched gravy.


Hot Model [$12.00] | Tequila, Mezcal, Lemon, Lime, Agave, Jalapeno
The Hot Model was appropriately monikered. Think smoky, woody notes from the mezcal-tequila combo, tempered by lime, the jalapeño imparting a delightful spice to the drink.


Ceviche [$18.00] | Albacore, Rock Shrimp, Avocado, Fresh Coconut, Red Jalapeno, Lime, Passion Fruit, Radish & Salmon Roe
The ceviche was a very pleasant surprise: super bright and fresh, with a great ocean-y goodness from the seafood that paired gorgeously with the sweet, spicy, acidic notes present. One of the best ceviches I've had in a long while.


Salt Cod Clam Chowder [$12.00] | Smoked Pancetta, Sourdough Bread Bowl
I always enjoy a good chowder, and this was a tasty example, with a delectable smokiness to go along with the briny goodness of the salt cod. I even wanted to eat the remaining sourdough bowl, which had soaked up all the liquid, but didn't want to fill up on bread.


Bramble On [$12.00] | Gin, Lime, Banana, Crème de Mure, Blackberry, Mint
As the name would imply, the Bramble On was a blackberry-forward cocktail, the berry flavors joined by boozy, astringent notes of gin while mint lent a brightness to the drink.


Patty Melt [$12.00] | Dry Aged Beef, Gruyere, "Beachwood" BBQ Sauce, Caramelized Onion & Arugula on Marble Rye
Playa's patty melt was as gratifying as it looked, with the super juicy, deeply-flavored beef enhanced by the richness of Gruyère. Also key was the smoky sweet BBQ sauce and the levity from the arugula.


Yukon Gold Tostones with Sage & Tangy Aioli [$6.00]
Fried shards of potato were straightforward enough, with the aioli giving an extra bit of zip.


Swizzle [$12.00] | Jamaican Rum, Banana, Lime, Demerara & Angostura
The classic rum swizzle was a fun sort of cocktail, with sweet, tropical, fruity flavors presented over a base of rum, the lime providing a tart counterpoint.


Dungeness Crab Mac n Cheese [$14.00]
I appreciate a good macaroni and cheese, and tonight's version hit the mark, with the crab adding a great salinity to go along with the natural cheesiness of the dish. Nice texture on the pasta, too.


Fish & Chips [$16.00] | Fried Sweet Potatoes, Malted Vinegar & Spicy Tartar
We ended our savories with a fairly classic fish and chips. The actual fish could've used more seasoning, though this deficit was mitigated by the tangy vinegar and superbly spicy, smoky tartar. Sweet potato fries, meanwhile, were some of the better I've had, as they didn't go overwhelmingly sweet.


Donut de Creme [$9.00] | Chocolate Chip Donut, Caramel Pot de Crème, Coffee and Milk Ice Cream, Banana Caramel, Hazelnuts
Dessert started out strong with this tiny doughnut, one that was perfectly paired with rich notes of caramel and coffee while the hazelnuts lent a moderating crunch to the dish.


Pretzel Ice Cream [$3.50]
We also made sure to try some ice cream from Small Batch. I enjoyed the salty, savory, crunchy bits of pretzel in this one, though I wanted to see even more of it.


Pineapple-Coconut Ice Cream [$3.50]
Some very focused, tropical flavors in this one, which apparently was dairy-free.


Bourbon Milk & Warm Chocolate Chip Cookies [$8.00]
The signature dessert here brought out the softest, gooiest cookies I'd ever tasted, but even better was that milk, which was simultaneously sweet, yet boozy. Damn my lactose intolerance.


Bourbon Cornflake Ice Cream [$3.50]
I wanted more bourbon, more crispness on the actual corn flakes here, though the ice cream was still enjoyable overall.


Chocolate Malted Crunch Ice Cream [$3.50]
The Chocolate Malted Krunch at Thrifty was a childhood staple of mine, and Playa's version was a worthy interpretation that really was reminiscent of the original.

This was my first time visiting one of Williamson's restaurants, and I walked out quite satisfied. The cooking's pretty classic, pretty traditional in essence, with a few cheffy twists included for good measure, and the food and drink certainly delivered for the most part. A great fit for the locale to be sure.

Odys + Penelope (Los Angeles, CA)

March 22, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Quarters Korean BBQ (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Playa Provisions (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Odys and Penelope Restaurant
127 S La Brea, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.939.1033
www.odysandpenelope.com
Thu 02/19/2015, 08:00p-10:40p





December 31st marked the final night of service for Hatfield's, Quinn and Karen's eponymous fine dining standby that first graced Angelenos back in 2006. In its stead comes Odys & Penelope, ostensibly a better representation of where the Hatfields are culinary at this point in their careers. Named after the husband and wife central in Homer's Odyssey, the Fairfax restaurant bowed on January 12th and is a meat-centric, "churrasco and grill" concept. The conceit here is that the kitchen will highlight open flame, running four different types of wood through a Brazilian-style churrasco, a smoker, and two grills: one Argentinean, one Uruguayan.


Situated just a few doors down from the couple's breakfast-and-lunch spot Sycamore Kitchen, O+P takes the place of a former warehouse. Penned by Alexis Readinger of Preen Inc, the restaurant spans 3,800 square-feet and seats around 80 in a crafty, sleek space replete with wide expanses of exposed brick and wood, lots of wood.


Divvied up simply into starters, mains, and sides, Odys + Penelope's refreshingly compact menu is expectedly heavy on the grilled items. Drink-wise, you can look forward to craft cocktails, a handful of beers, and a small wine list. Corkage, meanwhile, is a rather inexplicably hefty $35 (limit five bottles). Click for larger versions.


Bloody Derby [$12.00] | Rye whiskey, fresh blood oj, honey
We began with O+P's take on the Derby, a boozy, bitter, sweet and slightly spicy concoction that was tasty, but not quite as interesting as some of the other cocktails that we tried.


Kumquat Caipirinha [$11.00] | Cachaça, kumquat marmalade, lime
The restaurant's reinvention of the iconic Caipirinha went over pretty well, a refreshing drink with the interplay of lime and cachaça front and center, underpinned by the sugariness of the kumquat preserves.


Smoked shredded lamb lettuce cups [$13.00]
Food-wise, up first were the two specials of the night. Lettuce cups were delightful, with the rich flavors of the lamb balanced by the cool yogurt and bright veggies. Also key were the garbanzos, which imparted a textural element to the dish.


Pork spare ribs [$14.00]
The ribs were spot on, tender and tearing cleaning off the bone, imbued with both a marked smoke and a counterbalancing sweetness. These would give most BBQ joints a run for their money.


The farmer's dozen - 12 seasonal raw and roasted veggies, herbs, pepita "butter" lime vinaigrette [$15.00]
We did order a salad in a vain attempt to counteract all the meat we'd be having. The twelve veggies here comprised six types of greens, two radishes, cauliflower, romanesco, carrot, and avocado, and made for an amalgam of bright, bitter, and sweet flavors, all tied together by the nutty depth of that pepita "butter."


Fried wild mushrooms, Persian garlic sauce [$13.00]
Mushrooms were thoroughly enjoyable, lightly battered and loaded with all the earthy flavors that you'd expect. Tasty alone, and even better with a dab of that zesty, creamy dip on the side.


Fino Sour [$12.00] | Pisco, fino sherry, egg white, lemon, bitters
A favorite cocktail of mine tonight was this take on the Pisco Sour, showing off notes of bittersweet spice and lemon-y tartness, all moderated by the frothy egg white while the sherry added an additional complexity to the mix.


Smoke Stack [$12.00] | Chipotle infused tequila, lime, agave, smoked salt
Given my penchant for smoky cocktails, I was quite the fan of this as well, with its sour, smoky, boozy flavors well integrated and finishing with a lingering, fiery spice.


Heritage churrasco porchetta, Beluga lentil salad, green tomato mostarda [$25.00]
Moving into the more substantial plates now, the porchetta arrived well-spiced and appropriately fatty, tender, and juicy. The pig was certainly enjoyable alone, but I really appreciated the lentils, which conveyed an earthy sort of brightness that offset the meat. The mostarda, meanwhile, gave this a sweet-tart kick to round things out.


Slow grilled Wagyu tri-tip, charred broccolini, O+P béarnaise [$28.00]
Following was Odys + Penelope's version of a Santa Maria staple. Tri-tip came out savory and full-flavored, with a nicely smoky crust. The accompanying béarnaise imparted an additional richness to the dish, but my favorite element here was the broccolini, which had a great bitterness and char that was absolutely key.


Vendome Sling [$12.00] | Gin, cherry liqueur, lime, ginger beer
The restaurant's version of the Sling was light and bright, with bittersweet cherry flavors deftly paired with the zesty ginger beer.


Shaved Brussels sprouts, roasted almond, caper, dried apricot salad [$7.00]
The Brussels weren't quite what I was expecting. I missed the bite, the textures of the sprouts here, though their bitterness was on display, balanced by a slight sweetness and a pleasant nutty tinge.


Bacon wrapped chicken thighs, lemon date chutney [$18.00]
Chicken thighs didn't quite deliver, as I really wanted the inherent savoriness of the bird to shine more. I think the issue was the chutney, which had a sugariness that tended to overwhelm things, even the saltiness of the bacon.


Kennebec fries, za'atar, yogurt aioli [$7.00]
I enjoyed the French fries, which were crisp, hot, wonderfully herby, and even better with a dab of that creamy aioli.


Foxtail [$12.00] | Vodka, apple brandy, apple redux, citrus, prosecco
Vodka was put to good use here, giving some backbone to the juicy apple and citrus flavors present. Sweet, but not overly so.


Dry rubbed smoked shortribs, Quinn's Western Sweet [$42.00]
The short rib was clearly the largest "side" that we'd ever encountered (yes, it's listed as a side dish on the menu). It was damn good though, arriving super tender and with a great smoke that pervaded and lingered long. The sauce on the side was just sweet enough, and served as a fitting accompaniment to the meat.


"Panang" sautéed Blue Lake beans, roasted peanuts [$6.00]
This seemingly phanaeng-inspired take on green beans was to my liking, with a strong umami presence tempered by tangy and nutty nuances.


Hotel Nacional [$11.00] | Aged rum, fresh pineapple, apricot liqueur
Our final cocktail was a staple of pre-Castro Cuba, a lovely sort of drink that really did a great job integrating the rum with the tropical notes from the pineapple and sweet, lingering apricot.


Desserts by Pastry Chef Karen Hatfield follow. Click for a larger version.


Lemon snow copetta, olive oil gelato, ruby grapefruit, mint [$9.00]
The first dessert was certainly the most refreshing, acting as almost a palate cleanser. Lots of bracing, citrusy flavors here, augmented by a cool tinge of mint while the gelato provided the necessary gravity.


Warm chocolate banana "toast", Nutella ice cream [$10.00]
The "toast" was also on point, giving up a fantastic interplay of chocolate and banana flavors, accented by a great nutty component. Some nice textures here, too.


Goat milk custard brulee, cajeta [$10.00]
The crème brûlée was perhaps the most conventional of the desserts, showing off its creamy custard and brittle, bitter top in classic fashion.


Chocolate pie, rye crust, Spanish peanut crumble, vanilla-malted ice cream [$11.00]
My favorite of the desserts was probably the chocolate pie, with its rich-but-not-too-rich chocolate flavors working beautifully alongside the ice cream, all while the peanuts imparted savoriness and bite to the dish.


Cornmeal ricotta fritters, salted local honey butter [$10.00]
Last up were the fritters, which I found surprisingly light, yet creamy on the inside, with an ethereal, lemon-y flavor profile. Quite good when taken with the crème on the side, though the honey was a bit much for me.

The Hatfields have done a pretty bang-up job with Odys + Penelope. I like the meat-centric aspect of it all, and how the cooking's rooted in tradition, but also conveys a contemporary, relevant edge to it. You can tell that the kitchen's having fun with it all. In fact, I actually prefer this place to the old Hatfield's, so hats off to Karen and Quinn.

Quarters Korean BBQ (Los Angeles, CA)

March 26, 2015, 6:30 pm

≫ Next: Le Comptoir (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Odys + Penelope (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Quarters Korean Barbeque
3465 W 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
213.365.8111
Sat 02/21/2015, 06:30p-10:30p





One of the latest entrants to the high-end KBBQ game is the curiously-named Quarters, which debuted last November, apparently the work of a relative of the people behind the ever-popular Kang HoDong Baekjeong. In fact, the restaurant is located within spitting distance of Baekjeong, at the far edge of Chapman Plaza. As the name would imply, the conceit here is that meats are ordered in quarter-pound portions, "tapas" style. It may be a bastardization of the term, but the concept was at least interesting enough to warrant a visit.


Quarters occupies the former home of The Gogi, My House, and Yi Ssi Hwa Ro, three not particularly well-regarded AYCE KBBQ places. The space has been updated a bit, with the patio out front spiffed up in particular (no grills there though, as it serves as more of a waiting area). Click for a larger version.


As for Quarters' menu, the small-sized portions of meat are joined by a number of other items more befitting of the moniker "tapas." Purchase five orders of meat, and you'll be gifted with the signature cheese fondue, kimchi or soybean stew, and steamed egg. Of course, there are combos as well, but I'm not sure if they'll actually save you money. There are also the so-called "Hang Over Combos," which included booze along with the food. Note, however, that in all cases, the staff does the cooking for you, which is par for the course at higher end joints like this. Meanwhile, drink-wise, you'll find a decent selection of beers (for KBBQ), an equally decent array of wines (for KBBQ), your typical Korean booze (soju and the like), and some semi-decent cocktails. Click for larger versions.


Giving the hour-plus wait we had to endure (no reservations are taken), we broke out a couple bottles in the patio--discreet BYOB style--to help pass the time. Up first was the 2015 Bottle Logic Tattered Prince, a saison brewed with Sorachi Ace hops, ginger, coriander, and orange zest. It was pretty good, with lots of spice and pear sweetness on the nose, the palate coming in crisp, bitter, slightly funky, and a tad metallic. We also tried the 2014 Southern Tier Pumking, despite it being out of season by this point. It was probably one of the better pumpkin beers I've had, smelling of sweet spice and grain and tasting of more pumpkin, spice, and a nutty, almost almond-like sugariness.


Condiments included a soy- and rice wine-based sauce with onion and jalapeño (I believe that's what it was), ssamjang, and salt-n-pepper with sesame oil.


Water kimchi was refreshing, with a nice, not-too-spicy bite to it.


They don't serve a bunch of banchan here, but the ones they do have are solid, such as the tofu.


I'm quite the fan of the pajeon, but I don't think I've ever encountered one so green, I think due to the incorporation of spinach. In any case, I found it quite to my liking.


Good ol'baechu kimchi was on point, natch.


Moving on to our next beer, the 2014 The Bruery Chronology:6 was a strong ale aged for six months in bourbon barrels, the first in a chronologically aged series that will be released in six month intervals in order to give drinkers a glimpse at how the beer changes as it ages in oak. I found it reminiscent of the brewery's lauded Anniversary ales, with loads of rich toffee and brown sugar on the nose, and intense flavors of dark fruit, wood, and booze.


Green beans were delightfully crunchy, enrobed with garlicky goodness.


A gamja saelleodeu featuring sweet potato was a bit on the saccharine side for me, but that's to be expected given my disdain for the root vegetable.


Next up was what seemed to be a mash up between a scallion salad (pajori) and spicy shredded daikon (musaengchae). Regardless of what it was, I liked it, with the zestiness of the green onion pairing well with the heat of the radish.


And of course, we were provided with a more standard interpretation of salad as well.


Above we see our first order, comprising five different varieties of meat, a quarter-pound each. A glorious sight indeed.


Given that we had five orders of "tapas," we were gifted with the restaurant's various freebies, starting with their odd cheese fondue, which we found Velveeta-like.


The egg soup (gyeran jjim), meanwhile, was pretty spot on, coming out all fluffy and flavorful.


The assorted vegetable skewer was nice to look at, but didn't add too much to the experience.


Next to imbibe was the 2014 Beachwood Tovarish, a Russian imperial stout brewed with coffee beans from Portola Coffee Lab as well as blackstrap molasses. It was a prime example of an espresso stout, with the beer's inherent roasty, malty, and dark fruit qualities melding well with the bitter coffee notes present.




Beef Tongue [$9.25]
Getting into the actual gogi now, hyeo mit's always a welcomed way to start, and the cuts tonight were just what I wanted: slippery and slick, with a good bite and some deeply bovine flavors. Particularly tasty with a dab of the sesame.




Boneless Short Rib [$13.25]
Kkotsal arrived beautifully marbled and ate super tender, with a delicate flavor profile accented by a hint of smoky char.


Another freebie, the doenjang jjigae (soy bean stew) did a commendable job showing off the earthy flavors of soybean paste, all set against the mild blocks of tofu present.


We also tried the other option, a prototypical presentation of the staple kimchi jjigae.




Beef Brisket [$8.25]
Chadol bagi didn't disappoint either, giving us some surprisingly deep, beefy flavors.


The 2014 The Bruery Preservation Series: Oaked Old Richland was an American-style barleywine, dry hopped with Simcoe, Centennial, and Sterling hops then aged on oak for a few weeks. I found this super hoppy on the nose, while the palate was all about hints of wood and that malty, caramel-laced backbone, which lent a sense of balance to the beer. Almost IPA-like.




Pork Belly [$7.75]
Sangeopsal came thick cut and richly-flavored, with a mouth-wateringly piggy savor that worked beautifully with a hit of bitter char. Great with a bit of grilled kimchi.




Pork Jowl [$7.75]
The hangjunsal, meanwhile, was even more intense, a super fatty, gelatinous, yet somehow "crunchy" cut that was unmistakably porcine.


Korean Nachos [$7.75] | Marinated short rib, sauteed kimchi, melted cheese, sour cream, chopped onion & cilantro, Quarters hot sauce
Korean-style nachos didn't strike me as particularly Korean, but they were tasty and just slutty enough, with the flavors coming together in classic nacho fashion.


Seafood and Green Onion Pancake [$9.75]
I'm a sucker for haemul pajeon, and Quarters' version was enjoyable, though I would've liked some more substantial textures here from the various items of seafood.


Unlike the similarly-monikered Chez Monus, the 2013 Alpine Chez Monieux has never really gotten much love in beer circles. As such, I must've gotten a good bottle or something, because I quite enjoyed the sour, a Belgian-style, wine barrel-aged kriek. I got lots of barnyard funkiness up front in the aroma, commingled with vinegar, while on the palate, there was a good amount of cherry sweetness, tartness, more funk, and a pleasant, puckering acidity.




Spicy Pork Collar [$10.75]
Maeun moksal came out slathered in a wicked shade of red, with the cut giving up some of the most intense flavors of the night, a commingling of porcine, spicy, and sweet notes in a fatty, gratifying package. Interestingly, our server (Irene) recommended that we utilize the cheese dip for this one; I still wasn't sold.


Beef Tartare [$15.25] | Fresh beef marinated with soy sauce and pear
Yukhoe came out too cold unfortunately, which muted some of the flavors, but the dish was still enjoyable, with the meat well accompanied by contrasting sweet and spicy flavors.




Rib Eye [$17.50]
The kkot deungsim was a nice looking specimen, and cooked up real juicy and tender, with a well-placed bit of charring to even it out.


We ended on a lighter note with the final beer, the 2014 Logsdon Straffe Drieling, a farmhouse-style tripel brewed with spices. I enjoyed it, with its aromatic, almost tea-like nose leading to a refreshingly bitter, biting, earthy-yet-spicy sensation on the tongue.




Seasoned Boneless Short Rib [$13.25]
Our final meat was arguably my favorite of the bunch. The jumulleok was all that you'd want in gogigui: a masterful blend of juiciness, tenderness, and beefiness, enhanced by the undeniably potent seasoning going on.

I was a bit skeptical about Quarters going in, but I think we all left duly impressed. Certainly, I found it to be one of the best Korean barbecue meals I've had, and I'd place the meat quality roughly on par with what's available across the way at Kang Hodong. The service was even better than Baekjeong's, and the vibe a bit more sedate. Combined with the menu format and a better beverage program, it's a more approachable, "complete" experience overall. Fans of the KBBQ will want to check this place out for sure.