Red Medicine (Beverly Hills, CA) [3]

October 10, 2014, 9:00 pm

≫ Next: Guerrilla Tacos Truck (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Sopressata at Black Hogg (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Red Medicine Restaurant
8400 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills, CA 90211
323.651.5500
www.redmedicinela.com
Fri 10/10/2014, 09:00p-12:30a





Despite all the controversy surrounding Red Med, I'd always felt that Jordan Kahn's cooking stood among the best in the City, and so I was disheartened to hear that the restaurant would be closing at the end of October after nearly four years in business, ostensibly due to higher overhead resulting from the sale of the building. Given the significance of the place, one last visit was certainly called for.


Red Medicine's menu had, by this point, transformed from Viet Modern to neo-Nordic-influenced, though there were still a couple vestiges left over from the old days in the form of that wagyu and those chicken meatballs. Plates were mostly medium-sized, save for the large format items along the bottom, and there was the option of a six-course tasting menu at $65. Separately, you'd also find a bar menu, which lists the restaurant's signature bánh mì. Click for larger versions.


To drink, as always, the numbered cocktails were the main draw here, though there was also a pretty decent wine list and a handful of beers to choose from. Click for larger versions.


#90 [$12.00] | botanical, tart, punch, hibiscus (benedictine)
We enjoyed a couple cocktails while we were waiting for our table to open up, the first of which turned to a vibrant crimson when shaken. It was a fun drink, with a nose redolent of yuzu-esque tartness, while taste-wise, you had tangy, floral notes up front with the back end introducing some herb-y, spicy bitterness to the fray. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


#100 [$13.00] | Ramos fizz, almond milk, rose apples (gin)
Red Med's take on the Ramos gin fizz went down easy, with a floral, apple-y quality to it underpinned by a countervailing bitterness while the finish was creamy and almost dessert-y at times.


DUNGENESS CRAB [$32.00] | sea bean porridge, egg yolk
The meal started off with a bang in the form of shell- and liver-infused Oregon Dungeness, probably one of the best crab dishes I'd ever eaten. Buttery, briny, and sweet, the crab melded beautifully with the lushness of the soft egg yolk here, and the accompaniments of sea beans, lovage, and various other greens gave up a fantastic bit of aromatic, herbaceous goodness that expertly played off the crustacean. I loved the savory, charred weight of the sunchokes as well, and the whole course took on a vaguely Asian-y slant that suited it perfectly--damn. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


PORK CHEEKS [$28.00] | red currant, arctic rose
Pork cheeks, meanwhile, were super tender, sticky, and teeming with piggy flavors, a hearty, satisfying cut that was delicious on its own. What elevated the course, though, were the various accoutrements here--Belgian red endive, berries, beet-dyed grape leaves, red currant juice--which added tangy, bittersweet, acerbic nuances to the dish to really even out the meat. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


BRASSICAS [$17.00] | toasted grains, duck broth
A bevy of Brassicas was another standout for me, arriving with poached duck egg and crème fraîche in a roasted duck-smoked tea broth. I loved the bitter, astringent, char-forward flavors here, and well as the disparate textures, everything coming together with the luxuriousness of that egg while the broth added depth and richness to the course. The toasty notes from the crunchy grains were superb, too, and served as a bit of an accent piece for the food. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


PHEASANT [$28.00] | in the style of Alain Chapel
Kahn's next course paid tribute to legendary French chef Alain Chapel and was also a table favorite. What we had was 24-hour brined pheasant breast and loin, both cooked in brown butter, over black trumpet duxelles, with strained yogurt, braised lettuce, baby radish, and streaks of English pea and tarragon purées. On top was a nest of kataifi phyllo threads with herbs, while a broth of pine butter and English pea shell juice was poured tableside. There was a lot going on, but it all meshed beautifully. The bird itself was spot on in both preparations, its delicate flavors mixing with the creamy yogurt and really working in concert with the bright, grassy, bitter flavors at play. Loved the crunch of that filo, too. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


#97 [$13.00] | sour, tarragon, kumquat (pisco)
A take on a pisco sour, our next drink was enjoyed by all. It really showed off the character of the spirit, countered by the zestiness of tarragon/kumquat, while the egg whites imparted a lovely touch of froth and creaminess to the cocktail.


#101 [$11.00] | coconut, vanilla, baking spices, lemon (secret house liqueur)
Red Med's highest-numbered cocktail was also to my liking, deftly conveying a delicious bit of spiciness over a base of sweet-ish vanilla and coconut flavors, the lemon adding the right amount of sourness to the mix.


WILD YELLOWFIN TUNA [$19.00] | roasted kale oil, quince
Yellowfin made a strong case for itself, arriving to the table smoky and oceany, with a supple bite to it that paired gorgeously with the savory crunch of rye bread crumbles. I appreciated the creamy, dill-laced condiment in the center, not to mention the sweetness imparted by the quince, and the whole thing was pleasantly reminiscent of bagels and lox.


FORAGED MUSHROOMS [$22.00] | brown butter, balsam fir
Foraged mushroom combined here with an assemblage of greenery, a mélange of tangy, bitter, and creamy that recalled the distilled essence of forest floor. Shards of fried bread added texture and heft to the dish, and I was fond of the wheatberries as well, which added a fun, chewy, nutty component.


SANTA BARBARA UNI [$18.00] | almond milk, kei apple
The sea urchin, not too surprisingly, was also one of the most unique preparations I'd tried. Served here slightly charred, the roe was joined by nitro horseradish cream, kei apples, and dehydrated almond milk tuiles. I really liked the brine of the uni, and how it paired with the astringency of its char and the sweet-tart fruit, the horseradish providing a cool, creamy counterweight to it all. The best part, though, was the crispy almond milk "bark," which had an almost rice-y quality to it that worked wonders with the urchin.


DUCK LIVER [$17.00] | meadowsweet, blackberry
Duck liver was creamy and lush, though it appeared here with its signature earthiness restrained, replaced by a bittersweet, astringent, almost medicinal quality that was perked up by pricks of tart blackberry. Not sure how I felt about this one.


#98 [$12.00] | frozen, mango, yogurt (yogurt liqueur)
A vibrantly yellow cocktail was probably the most controversial of the evening, a creamy, thick concoction that displayed notes of mango and yogurt interspersed with hints of wood and dank "wet dog."


#88 [$14.00] | carbonated, pineapple, spicy, fresh herbs
Next up was a bottled cocktail, this one bright and fruity and effervescent, teeming with juicy flavors of pineapple over a backbone of booze, with the herbs adding a tasty aromatic component to the drink. A bit of spice on the back end there, too.


HEN RILLETTE [$11.00] | elderberry, stambler's rye
A rillettes of hen conveyed deep, heady flavors, enhanced by the application of salty chicken skin and spicy rye bread. It would've all been overwhelming had it not been for the various shrubbery, the zesty sprouts in particular, which worked admirably in the dish. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


Young POTATOES [$17.00] | gently poached in a cream of cultured sweet butter and yeast, crisp rice dumplings, wild grasses, flowers, and succulents foraged from the Malibu coast, an aromatic sauce of raw wheatgrass and chive juice
The potato course was a stunner, and one of the best dishes featuring the ingredient I've had. The combo of butter and yeast really did a great job complementing the mild savor of the taters, while the herby, green flavors present served as perfect exclamation points in the dish. Excellent dumplings, too. Never had potatoes like these before.


TROUT ROE [$19.00] | peas, lemon curd
Our final savory was quite a sight to behold, featuring Kahn's signature terrarium presentations. Trout roe was hidden beneath strata of lemon custard, sunflower seed granola, raw peas, sunflower seed oil, powdered frozen yogurt, lemon thyme meringue, pea vines, and vinegar-brined onion bulbs, everything capped with a disk of pea pod ice. I found it an eminently complex, yet cohesive dish, one that set the salty base of roe against bright, bitter, nutty, and grassy, making for a chorus of disparate flavors that remained distinctive, yet somehow harmonious. Some great temperature contrasts to boot, and I was quite enamored with the texture of those raw peas, too.


#15 [$11.00] | sour, herbal, lemon (rye)
Our final round of cocktails brought us one from way back when, as evinced by its assigned number. It was definitely one of the more straightforward drinks we had, an amalgam of tangy, herbaceous flavors over a base of spicy, boozy rye.


#73 [$12.00] | sugar cane, grassy, lime (cachaça)
Last up was Red Med's take on the caipirinha, a commendable prep that balanced sweet, sour, and minty with the weight of cachaça. Lovely.


Given Kahn's background in pastry, we of course had our way with the desserts, ordering each and every one. Click for a larger version.


COCONUT BAVAROIS [$9.00] | condensed milk, coffee, thai basil, peanut croquant
Our first dessert was Red Med's signature, and actually came off of the bar menu. I was sort of blown away by it the first time I had it at Test Kitchen in 2010, and the dish was as good as ever. The interplay between Thai basil and coconut gave off a Southeast Asian sort of flair, a light, bright affair that was brought back down by the bitter-sweet weight of the coffee and peanut. Great textures too, with the smooth, creamy bavarois serving as foil to the crunchiness of that croquant.


GREEN STRAWBERRY [$11.00] | shortbread, sorrel curd, oak moss, sweet clover
Green strawberries were firm, tart, acerbic, linking up with the sorrel and shortbread to form a green, gritty complex of flavors that definitely veered untraditional, the whole dessert overarched by a palpable citrus-y aspect. Certainly the most polarizing of our desserts--I wasn't really feeling this one.


REDWOOD ICE [$12.00] | almond praline, red currant, orange blossom, violet
Next was a variation of Kahn's "Birch Ice" dessert, which I can confidently say was one of the best desserts I'd ever eaten. We had here redwood stem shaved ice with red currant berries/jelly, violet-flavored crème Chiboust, orange blossom bubbles, crispy rice crackers, and a roasted almond praline. It's a lot to take in, but the end result was pretty special, a burst of nutty, floral, fruity, and tea-like flavors, underscored by the sugariness of currant. Some amazing textures, too, with the praline adding a much-appreciated weight and substance to the dish.


BLACK CARROT [$11.00] | geranium, jasmine, syrup of flower petals
Following was a visually arresting dessert of black carrot, coated in rose-geranium powder and doused with a shockingly magenta flower petal syrup. Think creamy, lush, and super-duper floral (I commented that it was almost lotion-like) over a base of fruity sweetness. The texture on those carrots was pretty amazing as well, and the slight savoriness of those thin crispy bits was an excellent finisher.


MILK CHOCOLATE CREAM [$12.00] | in the japanese method, crispy devil's food, cucumber, buckwheat, lovage
The requisite chocolate dessert comprised Japanese milk chocolate ganache, Chantilly, and almond sablés in a chocolate "cage," accompanied by lovage purée, lovage oil, and buckwheat whey. It was another smart combo from Kahn, the sugary heft of the chocolate combining beautifully with the Chantilly and almond while the lovage-cucumber-nasturtium trio imparted a wonderfully light, herby counterpoint to the plate.

We found this a strong showing from Kahn and company. Red Medicine's shutter is certainly a loss for the Los Angeles dining scene. The cooking's always been among the most creative/ambitious/modern/cerebral in the City, but RM seemed like it never really got off the ground. You had the whole Ho Chi Minh logo fiasco, the Virbila debacle, the public shaming of no-shows, and a general aura of bad karma surrounding the place that I'm sure turned off a lot of Angelenos. Though Red Med was oft praised at a national level, I'm also pretty sure it was the most hated restaurant in LA, not unlike Sona in its heyday. In a sense then, we should be surprised that it lasted even this long.

As for what's next for the partners here, Adam Fleischman will of course keep on with Umami, and hopefully continue to pursue more interesting restaurant concepts like Smoke Oil Salt. Noah Ellis, meanwhile, has still got his Vice Food & Beverage consulting biz, which just helped launch Hutchinson with Chef James Trees and is also involved in Top Round. Finally, Kahn is reportedly working on another concept, to be revealed in the coming months. Personally, I'd like to see a super intimate, tasting menu place along the lines of an Alma/Maude/Trois Mec, which would really showcase the food and is arguably what Red Medicine should've been in the first place. We'll see.

---

Guerrilla Tacos Truck (Los Angeles, CA)

October 12, 2014, 12:35 pm

≫ Next: Shi Hai (Alhambra, CA)

≪ Previous: Red Medicine (Beverly Hills, CA) [3]

$

0

0

Guerrilla Tacos Truck
826 E 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
818.640.3033
www.guerrillatacos.com
Sun 10/12/2014, 12:35p-01:30p





The food truck thing is a little passé for me personally by this point, but one of the most promising these days is without a doubt Guerrilla Tacos. Founded in August 2012 by Wes Avila and wife Tanya Mueller, Guerrilla started life as a street cart parked outside Downtown's Handsome Coffee Roasters. Unlike your typical taco cart however, Avila's offerings changed pretty much daily, and his tacos definitely veered non-traditional, some would say fancy. GT eventually garnered a following though, which allowed the Chef to move into a truck at the tail end of 2013. Following Handsome's sell-out to Blue Bottle in April, the crew moved a few blocks north to Blacktop Coffee (Thursdays to Sundays), and is still serving at Cognoscenti on Wednesdays.

About the Chef: A native of Pico Rivera, Wesley Avila didn't set out to become a player in the taquero game. Rather, following high school graduation, he sought work with his father as a forklift driver at a corrugated box factory, a position he retained for seven years. It was a stable, well-paying Teamster job, but mind-numbingly boring, so he left in 2003 at the age of 25. Avila thus enrolled at the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena, and after graduating, went up north to work at L'Auberge Carmel under none other than Walter Manzke. He eventually moved back to the Southland, cooked at Church & State, and helped Octavio Becerra and Gary Menes open Palate Food + Wine in fall 2008.

When Menes left Palate in August 2009, Avila decamped as well, got married, and studied for a bit at the Centre de Formation d'Alain Ducasse in Paris. He followed Menes to Marché, a joint project with André Guerrero, and during this period also cooked at the Palos Verdes Golf Club. Marché folded in 2010, and Menes went on to start Le Comptoir, with Avila in tow. Le Comptoir, however, was a pop-up, and was thus infrequent, so to make some extra cash, Avila bought a taco cart in May 2012 (tacos being a fav food of his). After starting out in a park in Glendale, he got hooked up with Tyler Wells of Handsome Coffee that August, and began Guerrilla Tacos outside his shop. The rest, of course, is history.


Before getting started, we went inside and got some Blacktop cold brew and their "One and One," which features a duet of Sightglass espresso and macchiato.


Wild boar picadillo with celery root, pine nuts, arbol chile, pickled onion, cilantro [$5.00]
Avila's picadillo was pretty damn tasty, deeply-flavored, earthy, and satisfying, with a lovely touch of heat to it and a well-placed bit of brightness from the combo of pickled onion and cilantro. The sort of taco you could just down a whole plate of.


Tacos really call for some beer to pair, so we opened up a bottle of the 2014 Russian River Blind Pig IPA that I had from back in March. Despite its age, it was still rather delicious, a classical West Coast interpretation of the style brimming with hoppy, pine-y, citrus-y goodness. Bitter, but balanced.


Blue crab quesadilla with Oaxacan cheese, summer squash, farmer market greens, guajillo chile, radish, lime [$10.00]
Avila's take on the quesadilla certainly looked unconventional (and was a bit polarizing in our group), sort of reminding me of a tlayuda of sorts. The brine of the crab was forcefully conveyed here, a blast of ocean-y flavors evened out by a touch of sweet heat and the zestiness of various veggies. I would've liked to have tasted more from the queso Oaxaca though.


Next up was something refreshingly sour, the wine barrel-aged 2014 Almanac Farmer's Reserve Blackberry. For this one, think tart and acidic, though not particularly funky, with a solid, yet subtle backbone of blackberries all the way through.


Pencil asparagus and fried egg taco with almond, chile, cashew, parsley [$4.00]
The last item we tried showed off the classic pairing of bitter, bracing asparagus with the lushness of egg. It was an undoubtedly effective, delectable combination taken up a notch by the inclusion of char, chile, and cashew


Our final beer was the 2014 Founders Curmudgeon, an old ale brewed with molasses and aged in oak barrels. It was an expectedly malty brew, but also very smooth, with a bread-y and sugary quality to it finished with a trace of alcoholic heat.

It seems to me that Avila's goal here was to do the type of high-brow cooking that he was trained in, using the taco as the vessel in which to convey his ideas. I didn't get to try too much of his food, but based on what I ate, I'm curious to taste more. In a way, the truck almost doesn't do justice to the cooking here. I'd love to see Guerrilla become a permanent, brick-and-mortar business so we could realize the full potential of the concept. That way you'd have a larger selection of tacos, less selling out of stuff (sadly, we missed the "Waffle of Insane Greatness"), the ability to pair beer/cocktails, longer (dinner) hours, and of course, actual seating. Hell, even have a taco bar so we could enjoy taco tasting menus. Now that would be coming full circle.

Shi Hai (Alhambra, CA)

October 12, 2014, 2:00 pm

≫ Next: Brilliantshine (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: Guerrilla Tacos Truck (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Shi Hai Restaurant
1412 S Garfield Ave, Alhambra, CA 91801
626.282.3888
Sun 10/12/2014, 02:00p-03:50p





The dim sum place du jour these days seems to be Shi Hai ("Four Seas"), largely thanks to Jonathan Gold's recent write-up of it in the LAT I'm guessing. The restaurant debuted in July, and is a Hong Kong-style seafooder from Haiping "Jeff" Huang. Basically a new construction, it occupies the shell of the old Blue Ocean Seafood (MPV Seafood until 2008), which burned nearly to the ground in May 2011, as well as D&F BBQ next door (which holds most of Shi Hai's private dining rooms).



Above, we see Shi Hai's dim sum menu, which covers most of the typical bases. In addition to all this, you also have the option of ordering off the dinner menu (not pictured), which is a thick, glossy, well-photographed affair that may just be the physically fanciest menu I'd ever seen. Click for larger versions.


Given the limited alcohol situation here, we rolled in BYOB style. Our first beer was the 2014 Widmer Brothers Saison À Fleurs, which seemed very apropos for the surroundings given the brew's incorporation of chrysanthemum, jasmine, and Sichuan peppercorn. I took a liking to this one, finding it a good mix of classic saison character intertwined with spicy, fruity, flowery nuances.


Crispy Cruller Rice Noodle Roll (M) [$3.88]
We began with much bandied about zhaliang rice noodle rolls, which were admittedly rather tasty. The wrappers were slick and gelatinous, a fitting foil to the crispness of their sweet-n-savory youtiao-slash-shrimp mousse stuffing. You should probably get this.


Baked Chicken Bun (M) [$3.88]
The baked chicken bun isn't something that I have all that often, but was pretty serviceable, with a slight sweetness to the bao to go along with the bird.


The 2014 The Bruery Golden Orchard is a new release from the brewery, a Belgian-style golden ale fermented with Brettanomyces. It really was quite delicious, delivering a blast of crisp, malty, subtly funky flavors accented by a fresh, fruity (apples?) quality and just a touch of bitterness.


Shrimp and Asparagus Rice Noodle Roll (L) [$4.88]
Xia chang was a laudable version of the classic noodle roll, the shrimp arriving snappy and nicely brined, though I wanted to taste more from the asparagus.


Shi Hai Baked BBQ Pork Bun (M) [$3.88]
The classic cha siu bao seemed to be quite good judging from my dining companions' reactions. I didn't get to taste it though, as the kitchen somehow managed to run out of the buns, which perplexes me (they gave us the chicken buns above as a substitute).


Pork and Crab Egg Dumpling (L) [$4.88]
Siu mai were on point however, plump and springy and brimming with porky goodness offset by just a smidge of brine.


The 2014 Deschutes Cultivateur is a limited-edition, brewery-only Pub Reserve Series release that comprises four different batches of Pinot and oak cask-aged saison, aged for three, four, and 13 months with a mixture of Brettanomyces bruxellensis, Brettanomyces lambicus, Lactobacillus, and Pediococcus. The resultant beer was delicious, with plenty of barnyard and stonefruit on the nose and a taste that veered crisp, tangy, and funky, with a nice touch of hoppiness to it all.


Shrimp Dumpling (L) [$4.88]
Har gow were pretty tasty, perhaps a touch gummy with regard to the skin, but stuffed with a thoroughly enjoyable filling of well-cooked shrimp.


Pork Sparerib with Pepper Sauce (L) [$4.88]
I liked the paigu here more than I thought I would, the ribs conveying a pleasant bit of porkiness enhanced by the depth of the accompanying sauce.


Next up was the Evil Twin Justin Blåbaer, quite possibly the best-monikered beer since Beachwood's Jean-Quad Van Damme. A blueberry Berliner Weisse, this one was to my liking, showing off some tart berry goodness on the nose and more on the palate, where it was joined by a palpable citric character and a touch of wheatiness.


Shanghai Juicy Pork Bun (L) [$4.88]
Xiaolongbao were a pleasant surprise, arriving appropriately juicy and teeming with porcine goodness.


Chicken Feet with Spicy Salt [$6.99]
This preparation of chicken feet didn't do much for me--cold, bonier than usual, a bit bland--but then again, I'm not a fan of feng zhua in the first place.


Sticking with the fruit theme, our next bottle was the spontaneously fermented New Glarus Raspberry Tart from Wisconsin. The beer was positively jammy in terms of aroma, while taste-wise you got more of that in-your-face fruitiness, but cut by a marked tartness and oaky tinge.


BBQ Duck (Half) [$15.99]
The barbeque duck made a nice showing for itself, displaying a depth of "ducky" flavors accompanied by nuances of sweet spice. Good crispness on the skin, too.


Deep Fried Taro Dumpling (M) [$3.88]
The yutou jiao were another standout for me: light, fluffy, and wonderfully crisp, with a great bit of delicate savoriness to them.


Steamed BBQ Pork Bun (S) [$2.88]
Though I missed out on the baked chashao bao above, I did try the steamed version, and enjoyed it, the soft, airy, yet dense bun really soaking up the sweet-salty nuances of the pork.


The lone India Pale Ale of the group was the 2013 Dogfish Head 75 Minute IPA, a blend of 60 and 90 Minute IPAs that's dry-hopped with Cascade, then doused with maple syrup and cask-conditioned. The beer was a treat, sweet yet hoppy on the nose, with a great interaction between the hops and malt on the tongue, all joined by an undercurrent of sugary maple, especially toward the finish.


Chicken Feet with Brown Sauce (M) [$3.88]
We only ordered one round of the standard feng zhua as well, so I didn't end up partaking. The others seemed to enjoy it, however.


Deep Fried Pork Dumpling (S) [$2.88]
Another favorite was the xian shuijiao, which I affectionately refer to as the "footballs." The key was the interplay between the sweet, sticky, substantial skin and the salty meat within. Yum.


Here we had the 2014 Rogue Farms Marionberry Braggot, a style that I'd actually never tasted before, in essence a mead (honey wine) with malts, hops, and blackberries. I found it intriguing, but enjoyable, smelling of sweet, honeyed spice and berry fruit and tasting much of the same, but with the addition of maltiness, hop bitterness, and a touch of herbiness.


Roasted Suckling Pigeon [$15.99]
Another one of Shi Hai's oft talked about dishes is the baby pigeon. It definitely showed off the deep, earthy, intense flavors that you'd expect with squab, all evened out by the sweet, crisp skin and what I believe were Pringles.


Sticky Rice w/ Lotus Leaf Wrapped (L) [$4.88]
I enjoyed the lo mai gai as well, a lotus leaf-wrapped contraption hiding a stuffing of glutinous rice and other savory fillings (mushrooms and chicken I'm guessing). Mouseover for a secondary photo.


Pan Fried Dry Scallop and Taro Cake (M) [$3.88]
A scallop-fied version of yutou gao was a rarity for me, but also one of my favorites here, with the salinity of the bivalve doing an admirable job in setting off the mild, dense taro cake. Lovely textures, too: crisp on the outside, but soft and yielding on the inside.


My last beer brought out the 2014 Firestone Walker Ol' Leghorn, a collaborative brew with Three Floyds first concocted during last year's FW Invitational Beer Fest. Done in the blonde barleywine style, this was aged in both new American oak and bourbon barrels, then blended with a freshly dry-hopped version of the same beer. The end result was a bit unexpected, with the caramel-y, barrel-y, malty qualities of the beer dominated by a bright, hoppy, citric character.


Surf Clam and Crab Egg Shrimp Dumpling (S) [$2.88]
Our penultimate dish combined shrimp, surf clam, and crab roe in dumpling form. I'd never seen anything quite like this before at dim sum, but it worked out swimmingly, a real celebration of ocean-y goodness tempered only just by the presence of the wrappers.


Steamed Turnip Cake (M) [$3.88]
Finally, though Shi Hai somehow lacked pan-fried luobo gao, we did get the steamed version, a pretty spot on rendition of the dish showcasing the mild, gelatinous radish against the savory sprinklings on top.

Despite the meal being cut short due to the kitchen closing (there were a number of additional items we wanted to try), we all left Shi Hai pleasantly surprised. I'd rank it as one of the better dim sum experiences I've had, above my recent experience at Lunasia in fact. It wasn't particularly expensive either, coming in at $20.49 a head (pre-tip) inclusive of the pricier non-dim sum items such as that squab. The place is certainly worth a try for all you yum cha fiends out there (and I know there are a lot of you).

Brilliantshine (Santa Monica, CA)

October 24, 2014, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Old Country Cafe (Alhambra, CA)

≪ Previous: Shi Hai (Alhambra, CA)

$

0

0

Brilliant Shine Restaurant
522 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.451.0045
www.thebrilliantshine.com
Fri 10/24/2014, 08:00p-01:10a





One of the Southland's most anticipated bars debuts of 2014 bowed on August 19th. Brilliantshine is the work of Julian Cox and Josh Goldman, the duo behind hospitality consulting firm Soigné Group (Acabar, Circa). Created in concert with Tinga partners Jerry Baker and Michael Lafetra, the place serves as Soigné's flagship property as well as its R&D center. To pair eats with the drinks, Cox and Goldman have brought on Chef Richie Lopez. A Lima native, Lopez relocated to Los Angeles a decade ago, and eventually met Ricardo Zarate in 2009 at the original Mo-Chica. This led to stints at Test Kitchen, Sotto, and finally Paiche, where he served as CdC and later Executive Chef before joining the team at Brilliantshine.


As for Brilliantshine's menu, you get about a dozen cocktails, heavily whiskey-based and ostensibly inspired by Cox's time spent traveling the globe. There's also a surprisingly complete wine list (or perhaps not so surprising given Goldman's tenure as a top notch sommelier), six beers on tap and a few in the bottle, as well as coffee from Counter Culture. Designed to complement the drinks, the food menu, meanwhile, is unexpectedly lengthy, but expectedly Peruvian-tinged, and reads well. There's even a brunch option. Click for larger versions.


Autumn Sour No 2 [$13.00] | Laird's Apple Brandy, Massenez Peche, lime, cinnamon, egg white
The night got off to a very strong start with one of my favorites cocktails, apropos for the season. I loved its intoxicating aroma of juicy peach, while on the palate, I got more of the fruit, joined by frothy egg, sweet spice, and a backbone of booziness. Delish.


Quinoa [$8.00] | baby oak lettuce, melon, lemon vinaigrette, watermelon radish
Our first dish brought out a light, bright salad. You had your tangy vinaigrette and sugary melon with the lettuce, but the crux was that quinoa, which added a nutty, wonderfully crunchy component to the course.


Miss Edna Krabappel [$11.00] | Auchentoshan scotch, crab apple, apple shrub, lemon juice, crushed ice
Being a Simpsons fan, this was a natural choice for me, and another highlight. The key here was the sweet-sour interplay at first, leading to a round booziness and a finish redolent of smoke. Yum.


Rye 'n Goslings [$12.00] | Rittenhouse 100 rye, El Dorado 12yr, demerara, Goslings 151, mint, apricot
The next drink pretty much takes the cake for having the best cocktail name ever. It was indeed as toothsome as its namesake, a thick, full-bodied concoction that showed off a noticeable heat up front while the back end was all about the sweetness of sugar and apricot.


Bok Choy [$11.00] | rainbow baby carrots, tomato, purple cauliflower, hoisin sauce
One of the standout dishes for me brought together a hearty mélange of vegetables, a medley of disparate textures and tastes tied together by the fantastically deep, rich, umami-laden flavors of the hoisin.


Kampachi Crudo [$16.00] | tamari, rocoto, miso, pears, marigolds
Following was probably the most artfully plated crudo dish I'd ever seen. The fish itself was light and delicate, pairing gracefully with the savory richness of the tamari soy and sweet-ish miso while herbs added just the right amount of zippiness to the mix.


The Walking Dead [$14.00] | (Limit 2 Per Person) Jamaican rum, Puerto Rican rum, 151 proof rum, fresh lime, Don's mix, clove
I first tried Soigné's take on the Zombie at Acabar, and the version tonight seemed to be a slightly modified version of that drink. It was still pretty damn tasty though, boozy sure, but also balanced by sweet, sour, and spice. Super long, lingering finish on the cocktail, too.


Brilliantshine Creole [$14.00] | McKenna Bonded bourbon, Benedictine, China-China, orange bitters, lemon twist
The Creole was unabashedly citrus-y on the nose, while the palate was thick and viscous, loaded with boozy, bittersweet, and vegetal nuances lightened by a bit of lemon.


Agnolotti [$14.00] | kabocha squash, shimeji mushrooms, choclo, pumpkin, roasted pistachios
An autumnal agnolotti went overly saccharine for my tastes, though my dining companions seemed to enjoy it. I did appreciate the weight of the shimeji here though, and was a big fan of the choclo's texture and tempering effect.


Japanese Scallops & Santa Barbara Uni [$21.00] | mirin, lime juice, uni oil, uni snow
A combination of sea urchin and scallop made an impression with its bright, herby flavors up front and lush, creamy notes of uni, moderated by the brine of the large slices of scallop present. We had quite the temperature contrast here as well, thanks to the use of the urchin "snow." The most contemplative dish on the menu.


Shrimp Ceviche [$11.00] | citrus sauce, cancha, sweet potato chips
Given the Chef's Peruvian background, it's not surprising that he turned out one of the best ceviches I'd had in a long while. The shrimp here were bright, fresh, and perfectly textured, a fitting stage on which the zest of citrus and herbs could sing. Big fan of that cancha too, which added both crunch and saltiness to the fray.


Fly By Night [$14.00] | Sheep Dip scotch, Salers Gentiane, King's Ginger, Angostura & Peychaud's
This next cocktail came out boozy, bittersweet, and botanical, with just an overarching whisper of ginger-y goodness and countering citrus to go along with the heady aromatics at play. Interestingly, I'd had this before both at PettyCash (where it was only $8 on draft) and Sotto.


Fish House Punch [$13.00] | Park Cognac, Jamaican Rum, lemon, peach, club soda
Brilliantshine's ode to the Fish House Punch was tasty and effervescent, conveying the heft of the cognac and rum combo at first, while the tail end was imbued with juicy notes of peach.


A Diving Bell [$12.00] | Mezcal, gin, caramelized pineapple, lime, cayenne pepper
Given my penchant for mezcal, I wasn't surprised that I enjoyed this next cocktail. You had the in-your-face fruitiness from the pineapple, joined by a touch of spice, while the mezcal provided a smokiness that pervaded and balanced the drink.


Smoked Atlantic Salmon [$16.00] | flatbread, pickled onions, cherry tomatoes, aji amarillo remoulade
A salmon pizzetta of sorts was quite lovely, showing off a sweet-tart quality paired with the fatty fish initially, while the spice of the aji amarillo came through on the back end. Nice crispness on the flatbread here, too.


Mary's Chicken Wings [$12.00] | kale, gochujang, aji amarillo, honey
Chicken wings were sticky and succulent, dripping with loads of sweet spice to go along with the bird's inherent savoriness.


The Obligatory Vodka Drink [$11.00] | Vodka, fresh grapefruit, lemon, Peychaud's
Vodka has gone out of fashion in cocktail circles, but Brilliantshine's requisite concoction was still rather delicious, showing off plenty of tart lemon and grapefruit notes cut by the bitters. Not much booziness going on here at all.


Hotel Nacional Special [$14.00] | Ron del Barralito 2-star rum, lime juice, fresh pineapple, apricot brandy
This one was heftier, with a strong pineapple quality to it countervailed by a palpable sweet spice and tartness, the rum adding an alcohol undercurrent to the entire cocktail.


Crispy Duck Leg Lettuce Wraps [$14.00] | butter lettuce, braising sauce, pickled daikon, chicharrón
The duck leg was indeed wonderfully "ducky," showing off loads of deep flavors that paired beautifully with the richness of the braising liquid, all while the daikon and lettuce imparted a much needed levity to things. Really tasty.


Sweetbread Toast [$12.00] | brioche, olive tapenade, smoked tomato jam
The earthiness of sweetbread was forcefully conveyed here, paired with the buttery brioche, but the dish veered sweet. I would've liked more brightness, more acidity, though the herbs up top did help.


Stone Pot Shrimp Fried Rice [$18.00] | duck egg, sambal-uni aioli, pickled daikon
You can't go too wrong with fried rice, and indeed, the dolsot-style dish delivered. The shrimp were pretty spot on, snappily-texture and still briny, and went swimmingly with the tangy crunch of the daikon. I was also a fan of the crispy bits of rice here (the nurungji), and the lushness of the egg, joined by the sambal-uni aioli, really tied everything together.


Alaska [$12.00] | London dry gin, Yellow Chartreuse, orange bitters
Here, the bittersweet, medicinal character of the Chartreuse seemed to amplify the inherently botanical nature of the gin, all while the lemon served as a sort of counterpoint in the drink.


Georgia Julep [$14.00] | High-proof bourbon, cognac, crème de peche, mint, crushed ice
This version of the Mint Julep was a laudable variation on the classic, with the addition of crème de peche adding a great fruity component to pair with the traditional interplay of whiskey and mint.


Veal Liver [$18.00] | tagliatelle, onions, Korean pickled spinach, ocopa sauce
Liver was earthy and expectedly rich, with a deep savoriness to it that was moderated in part by the swathes of pasta here. The crux, though, was the combo of pickled spinach and ocopa, which added a much needed piquancy that really set off the offal.


I had two four-packs of The Alchemist Heady Topper that I'd traded for just earlier in the day and opened a can for the steak. It was my first time having Heady, and I gotta say that it's pretty damn good. What struck me first was the nose (defying instructions, we drank it out of glasses for the most part), which was dripping with aromas of tropical fruit, citrus, and grapefruit. Taste-wise, I got more of that, but accompanied by pine, malt, and bitter hops--very balanced overall, with a smoothness and easy-drinking character. I can see what all the fuss is about.



35oz Dry-Aged Bone-In Rib Eye [$75.00] | baby rainbow carrots, double cooked potatoes, kale
The evening's pièce de résistance was this fairly massive rib eye. It was actually one of the better preparations I'd had in recent times, the steak coming out rich, buttery, and teeming with bovine goodness. The kitchen did a commendable job on the veggies here as well, a hearty mix that really evened out the potency of the meat.


For dessert, I opened a bottle of the 2014 The Bruery White Chocolate that I'd brought. The beer was quite something, and I was pretty amazed at how much this actually smelled and tasted of its namesake, showing off delectable notes of vanilla, cacao, and caramel over a base of bourbon-tinged alcoholic heat. Very good.


S'more [$8.00] | house-made graham crackers, chocolate, marshmallow
There were two desserts on the menu, and naturally we ordered both. The first was a pretty classic take on the smore, with all your expected flavors and a even a bit of campfire smoke from the smoldering wood underneath...


...Which did eventually turn into a nice little fire at the table. I don't think this is what the kitchen intended.


Chicha Morada Granita [$7.00] | coconut, roasted pistachios, lemon zest
With the fire quenched, up next was a dessert based on the popular Peruvian beverage chicha morada, one that gave up a base of sweet corn flavors to pair with its toppings of pistachio and coconut.


Paper Plane [$11.00] | Bourbon, lemon, Aperol, Amaro Nonino
We closed with the last two remaining cocktails on the menu, starting with this Sam Ross creation. Think bittersweet, tangy, but not particularly boozy, with a bright lemon-y tone to it.


Improved Whiskey Cocktail [$12.00] | Rye, maraschino, Peychaud's, lemon twist, absinthe
Last up was an improved version of the Old Fashioned, one made with the addition of maraschino and absinthe. One can argue whether or not the original drink even needs improving, but the variant here was certainly more multifaceted, with the sweetness of maraschino and the zestiness of absinthe shining through.

I don't doubt that Brilliantshine's one of the most exciting things to hit Santa Monica since Jeremy Fox took over at Rustic Canyon. With Cox and Goldman on board, you'd expect the beverages to be on point, and they were, with the cocktails coming out classic in essence, but with a modern edge to them as well. What was a bit surprising was how promising the food program was. Lopez's cooking showcases his time with Ricardo, and his Peruvian-slash-Asian stylings definitely seem to jive with the drinks for the most part. A big win for the area.

Old Country Cafe (Alhambra, CA)

November 14, 2014, 3:55 pm

≫ Next: Shiki (Beverly Hills, CA)

≪ Previous: Brilliantshine (Santa Monica, CA)

$

0

0

Old Country Cafe
2 E Valley Blvd, Alhambra, CA 91801
626.284.4610
Sun 10/12/2014, 03:55p-05:00p



After our meal at Shi Hai was unexpectedly cut short by the kitchen closing, we moseyed on over next door to Old Country Cafe, a longstanding Taiwanese eatery that's apparently occupied this same location since debuting back in 1985 (there's also an outpost in Temple City).


The menu at Old Country comprises a selection of your typical Taiwanese favorites, including a "dim sun snack" section that's more street food-focused. There's also a long list of tea and juices, as well as desserts and shaved ice. Click for larger versions.


We popped a few bottles left over from Shi Hai, starting with the 2012 Cascade Blueberry Ale, a sour wheat/blonde aged for a year in oak and three months with fresh blueberries. It drank expectedly tart, with notes of berry fruit intermingled with a musty, funky, oaky character. Pretty refreshing.


fried pork chop rice [$6.50]
Naturally, we had to start with Old Country's signature pork chop rice. Presented thin and delightfully crisp, the bone-in chop was spot on, still juicy and loaded with a straightforward porky goodness accented by just enough peppery spice. Accompaniments were much appreciated as well, and included an excellent half soy egg, rice with minced meat, steamed cabbage, mustard greens, and suan cai. Very possibly the best version of pai gu fan I've had.


Next to drink was the 2014 Mikkeller Invasion Farmhouse IPA, a Brettanomyces-infused IPA created in collaboration with Anchorage Brewing. It was a tasty beer, with its barnyard-y funk well presented against a citric, bitter, hoppy backdrop.


mince meat rice [$4.20]
Old Country's lu rou fan was also a winner, the deep, savory, slightly sweet weight of the soy-marinated ground pork coming out utterly satisfying, especially when taken with the rice. Lovely pickles here as well, and another one of those great soy eggs.


Moving into something heavier now, the 2014 Deschutes Black Butte XXVI was an imperial porter brewed with pomegranate molasses, cranberry, and cacao nibs, with 50% aged in bourbon barrels. I found it roasty and malty on the nose, and slightly sweet, while taste-wise, you got notes of chocolate, vanilla, roast, malt, and bourbon augmented by a palpable fruity character. We drank this earlier than recommended ("best after 6/13/15" on the bottle), so I'll be curious to see how this progresses with some age.


stinky tofu [$5.95]
The polarizing chou doufu followed, and indeed, was appropriately putrid, even driving away one of my dining companions from the table. In terms of flavor though, the tofu was noticeably milder, and paired swimmingly with a dab of the included condiment and some shards of pickled veggie, both of which effectively moderated its funk.


The classic 2014 Sierra Nevada Northern Hemisphere Harvest Wet Hop Ale followed, showcasing a balanced mix of sweet malt, juicy grapefruit, and hop bitterness. Very easy drinking.


mango shave ice [$4.50]
To close: not the prettiest mango-flavored baobing.


Our final beer veered dessert-y: the 2014 Hardywood Bourbon Sidamo Coffee Stout, aged for three months in bourbon barrels with Ethiopian Sidamo beans. Aroma-wise, you got your usual stout characteristics, though not too much coffee. The Sidamo was somewhat more apparent on the palate, making for an overall bittersweet-fruity experience joined by chocolate, roasty malt, and some bourbon barrel richness.

Old Country was a comfortable conclusion to our multi-stop lunch, serving simple-but-satisfying, home-y type fare that I quite enjoyed. I guess there's a reason why this place has been going strong for 29 years.

Shiki (Beverly Hills, CA)

November 17, 2014, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Night + Market Song (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Old Country Cafe (Alhambra, CA)

$

0

0

Shiki Sushi
410 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.888.0036
www.shikibeverlyhills.com
Tue 11/04/2014, 08:00p-11:00p





Aside from Sushi Tsujita, Shiki ("four seasons") is probably the most promising Japanese debut of recent times. The restaurant grand opened on April 6th, and is a project of Zen-Noh, Japan's National Federation of Agricultural Cooperative Associations, and Yoshihiro Aoki's Sakura Seven Co. Helming the kitchen here is Executive Chef Shige Fujimoto, a 36-year restaurant veteran who's last post was at Asanebo.

About the Chef: A native of Gifu Prefecture, Shigenori Fujimoto first set out to become a chef during his high school years, moving to Wakayama to train in traditional washoku as well as sushi. After eight years, he relocated to Nagoya in 1983, where he stayed for an additional three years and cooked at kaga-ryori specialist Kagaya. Fujimoto then emigrated to the United States, first landing at Lakewood's longstanding Tokyo Hibachi before transitioning to Gessin in 1991. In 1993, he secured a position at Nobu Matsuhisa's seminal Matsuhisa in Beverly Hills, where he worked as the omakase chef. After over a decade there, Fujimoto decamped and worked stints at Shige (2004-2005) and Marina del Rey's Irori (2005-2007), then became Tetsuya Nakao's right hand man at Asanebo, which secured a Michelin star during his tenure there. He eventually left in 2013 to start work on Shiki.

The restaurant is housed at the address of the old Enoteca Drago. The interior really hasn't changed much since those days, and doesn't really look the part of a Japanese restaurant (the sushi bar's the old antipasti bar). Capacity is 70 in the main space and 10 outside, and there's also a private dining room.


Shiki's menu comprises a large à la carte spread joined by seasonal specials. We, naturally, went for omakase, which is offered here in $125, $150, and $180 flavors (our choice). There's also a sushi omakase at a reasonable $60, not to mention lunch. As for libations, think your typical selection of beers, a pretty good spread of sakes, and the few requisite wines. Click for larger versions.


1: Chawanmushi
We commenced with a strong rendition of chawanmushi. I loved the sweet, ocean-y flavors of the Santa Barbara uni here and how that was enhanced by the depth of matsutake, everything tied together by the cool egg custard and punctuated by the zip of yuzu. What surprised me most, though, was the abalone, which added a great textural component to the course.


2: Kumamoto Kaki
Next were quite possibly the tiniest Kumamotos that I'd ever encountered. The first was paired with Italian Ossetra, which added a salty, lingering brine to the oyster, perked up by pricks of tart yuzu. We also had a version topped with Santa Barbara sea urchin; the yuzu was fantastic here, adding a sharp counterpoint to the lushness of the uni.


3: Kinmedai
My favorite course of the night was the golden eye snapper. The texture on the fish was pretty amazing--supple, yet a bit gelatinous and firm--and its delicate, lightly charred savor worked beautifully with the slippery nameko mushrooms and especially the bright, bitter sprouts here. The finishing touch was a drizzle of sizzling grape seed oil, which added a clean, savory accent that brought it all together. Masterful.


4: Dobin Mushi
Dobinmushi arrived teeming with Washington matsutake, chicken, shrimp, halibut, and gingko. It was a hot, hearty potage, with a deep, heady brine countered by the sour prick of sudachi. Perfect for the cold weather we'd been having.


We opened up a bottle of sake at this point, the Denshin Aki Junmai [$48]. A limited autumn release namazake from Fukui Prefecture's Ippongi Kubo Honten, this was quite to my liking. I found it robustly flavored, fragrant, and fruity, a delectable genshu backed by a palpable booziness.


5a: Tako Nimono
Simmered octopus was delightful, super tender to the bite and delicately flavored, good with the sour ume plum and even better with a dab of Hawaiian pink sea salt.


5b: Uni Shiokara
Santa Barbara sea urchin came accompanied by wasabi and superbly crisp sheets of nori, all three elements designed to be put together by the diner. This was the first time I "rolled my own," but the results were commendable, the classically effective pairing of uni and seaweed accented by the sharp heat of 'sabi.


6: Hirame & Amaebi Sashimi with Seasonal Fresh Truffle
Following were two types of sashimi, sprinkled with Burgundy truffle. Sweet shrimp was perfectly textured, crisp and snappy, and melded nicely with the fungus, but the halibut was even better, its clean flavors augmented by contrasting notes of earthiness and arugula-fueled zest. We were quite enamored with that cherry tomato, too, which came vinegar-marinated and with a superb interplay of sour to sweet.


7: Kanpachi Sashimi with Sesame Miso & Serrano Pepper
More sashimi: amberjack was firm and satisfying to the touch, its mild flavors augmented by the nutty depth of the miso while serranos gave things just a whisper of heat.


8: Aji Namasu
"Spanish mackerel" came topped with vinegared veggies, the bright, sweet, acidic punch of the sunomono countering the fishy weight of the aji in delicious manner.


Our second bottle was the Iki Na Onna Daiginjo [$90] from Yoshida Shuzoten in Ishikawa Prefecture. This was also a thoroughly enjoyable sake, a lighter, thinner presentation that was drier and cleaner in character, but with a sharper edge to it.


9: Gindara Saikyoyaki & Wagyu with Peach Compote
Next was perhaps the most unexpectedly good course of the evening. We had here two spoons, one with Kagoshima wagyu and one with miso-glazed sea bass, both accompanied by a peach compote. The sweetness of the fruit wasn't subdued, either, coming off as almost pie-like, but somehow it managed to work wonders with the savory char of the proteins, the pairing with the fish being particularly successful.


10: Kagoshima Wagyu Toban Yaki
The most substantial dish of the night was certainly the rib-eye tobanyaki, which arrived in a perfume of buttery goodness. The taste followed the smell, with the beefy goodness of the gelatinous, fatty cuts satisfying in a base sort of way, smartly cut in intensity by the sweet onion, bitter asparagus, and sour pinpoints of yuzu. One of my dining companions even bought two pounds of the beef to take home (at $18/oz), which we cooked simply on cast iron with salt and pepper the next day.


11: Shima Aji
Now, on to sushi. First to bat was the striped jack, a perfectly balanced bite demonstrating how well rice, fish, soy, and wasabi can work together.


12: Sawara
Described as king mackerel, the sawara was a winner as well, the focused brine of the fish gorgeously tempered by the tang of ginger and scallion.


13: Kuromaguro
Wild blue fin from Boston was done maguro zuke style, the fish joined by a deep soy richness while wasabi added the right amount of levity to the fray.


14: Toro
The same Boston blue fin yielded some tasty toro as well, the cut coming out expectedly fatty and near melt-in-your-mouth good.


15: Tai Ushiojiru
A soup of sea bream head and collar signaled the end of our meal, the potage really imbued with the savory, saline essence of the fish.


16: Anago
Our last official omakase course was the sea eel, a strong presentation that flawlessly blended sweet, savory, and char nuances.


Supplement: Engawa [$4.00]
We ended up tacking on a couple of supplements, the first being halibut fin. It was wonderfully chewy, just as we wanted, and went swimmingly with a pinch of salt and a sprinkle of yuzu zest.


Supplement: Kohada [$3.00]
Last up was gizzard shad, a firm-fleshed, beautifully-skinned specimen with a great balance of fishy and vinegar-y flavors.


Given that we were celebrating a birthday, the kitchen brought out a complementary sampler tray, replete with a rousing rendition of "Happy Birthday."

I think we all left Shiki impressed. The place is comparable to many of the top Japanese joints in LA, and delivered a pretty outstanding meal to us here tonight. Ingredients seemed to be top notch, and there was an authenticity to it all that I quite enjoyed, even with the more unexpected twists thrown in. For the Japanese cuisine lovers out there, you'll want to add this one to your list.

Night + Market Song (Los Angeles, CA)

November 6, 2014, 8:50 pm

≫ Next: Maude (Beverly Hills, CA) [4]

≪ Previous: Shiki (Beverly Hills, CA)

$

0

0

Night + Market Song
3322 W Sunset Blvd, Silver Lake, CA 90026
323.665.5899
www.nightmarketsong.com
Thu 11/06/2014, 08:50p-10:35p





Kris Yenbamroong, in concert with Sarah St. Lifer, has continued on with his quest for aharn glam lao with the debut of Night+Market Song ("two") in Silver Lake. First teased in 2013 (right before my last meal at the original location), the place was supposed to open in December, but bowed this May, a grittier, brasher version of its sister restaurant.


Though originally rumored to go in the former Cru space (now Pine & Crane), N+M Song ended up settling just down the street at the old Zamora Bros Meat address. The vibe is appropriate for the food: a bright, cheerful, slightly beachy, countryside roadside cafe sort of aesthetic.


As for Song's menu, it's roughly two-thirds the same as the original's. Staples like the sai krok Isaan aren't going anywhere, but there are a number of new items, including the (in)famous luu suk and "Bangkok mall pasta." There's even a take-out option. To drink, they finally got their license in August, so you'll now find a fun little wine list and a smattering of beer. Corkage is $20, but is allowed for wine only unfortunately. Click for larger versions.


Yenbamroong's long been a vocal proponent of pétillant naturel, a single-fermented, sparkling type of wine that makes sense with the food here. Our first bottle was the distressed femininity, motorcycle wineries, sonoma '13 [$55], apparently a blend of 16 different grape varietals. The esoteric rosé drank dry, with a pronounced earthy, barnyard character that I quite enjoyed.


pork toro [$7.00] | grilled fatty pig neck. salty like bacon. w/'jaew' northeastern chile dip
We commenced with one of the Chef's signature plates: chewy, firm, charred shards of fatty pork neck imbued with blasts of sweet, bitter, and spicy. Nicely finished by the included jaew.


nam khao tod | crispy rice salad [$9.00] | crispy rice salad w/ soured pork, raw ginger, onion, peanuts, cilantro, chile *spicy* [V]
Next was nam khao tod, quite possibly my fav Lao-Thai staple of all time. It was just what you'd want from the dish, a mish-mash of spicy, sour, salty, herby, and nutty flavors and disparate textures all set over a base of delightfully crunchy rice. Always a crowd pleaser.


pla meuk tod gratiem [$12.00] | wild thai baby octopus. battered and fried, topped with garlic and chile oil. served with sriracha.
I have a hard time skipping the octopus, and the version here didn't let me down, the plahmuk coming out wonderfully crisp and loaded with plenty of briny, savory goodness. Superb with a dab of the included sriracha.


gai tod naeng noi [$11.00] | original recipe from chieng rai's best vendor. fried chicken thighs (2) served with nam prik maengda. (aka waterbug relish). this relish is a special version of the classic namprik noom, but scented with steamed and mashed waterbugs. great for those who enjoy eating bugs and/or truffles.
Yenbamroong's fried chicken was on point, a juicy, tender, crispy, yet light preparation of the bird that was tasty alone, but even better when taken with the tangy, spicy condiment featuring those oft talked about water bugs. Yum.


luu suk [$10.00] | pork blood & msg dipping soup w/ pork crackling, crispy noodles, chile, herbs. think of this as a dip for your sticky rice
We of course had to sample the luu suk, easily the most notorious item on the menu by this point. The dish, which is relatively hard to find even in Thailand, is basically a pork blood and Ros Dee MSG-based sticky rice dip, and not nearly as off-putting as it may sound. In fact, it was pretty easy-eating, with the slight earthiness from the blood evened out by the myriad of spicy, herbaceous, and sweet (if you opt to use the side of nam jim wan) notes in the plate. Great crunch from those cracklins, too.


som tum tod [$11.00] | fried nest of papaya, dressing & trimmings served on the side [V]
Yenbamroong then sent out this variation of som tam, in which papaya was fried to a form resembling Japanese kakiage. It was a nice change of pace for the dish, with the interesting textural play of the fritters working alongside the classic notes of sweet, sour, and spicy.


larb lanna | chiang rai style larb [$11.00] | earthy northern style larb of h&-chopped pork, pork liver, pork blood, & a dry spice mix hand-carried back from the motherland by chef Kris. *specialty*
Most of us are probably familiar with the Lao/Isan style of larb with its fish sauce and tart, acidic tang. The Northern preparation served here, though, was quite a bit different, a darker, more intense dish with an earthy, savory flavor profile underscored by a palpable spice. The veggies were key here in balancing out the course.


Our second bottle was also on the obscure side, the jeunes mariés, les vignes herbel, loire '12 [$50]. A blend of Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon, this one was more floral, sweeter compared to the previous wine, but had a bit of an oxidative-funky quality to go along with the fruit present.


moo sadoong | 'startled pig' [$9.00] | grilled pork, basil, lemongrass, garlic, fish sauce, lime, chile, onions, cilantro, rice powder *spicy*
This whimsically-monikered pork salad came out deeply aromatic and pungent, its powerhouse of spicy, herby flavors coming as almost a punch to the palate.


khao pad american [$14.00] | thai strip club fried rice with frozen peas 'n' carrots and raisins. topped with a sunny-side up egg and served with wiener blossoms and chicken wings.
Outside of the pork blood, this is probably the most talked about item right now at NMS. It's apparently the type of dish they serve at Thai strip clubs, and given that context, it somehow makes sense. The sweetness imparted by the raisins actually worked with the slight curry character in the rice, and you can't go too wrong with a runny egg. The wieners were much appreciated as well, and the chicken wings were tasty, though a touch dry. Just the right amount of slutty.


khao soi neua [$14.00] | mae sai curried noodles w/ braised hanger steak, tendon & homemade nam prik khao soi
The khao soi came recommended by our server, and was a commendable rendition of the noodle soup, with the essence of the hanger really shining through alongside the comforting curried flavors present.


panang en neua [$14.00] | beef tendon panang w/ roti...contains nuts!
N+M's panang was a tasty take on the ubiquitous dish, the beef coming out appropriately tender and satisfying, amped up by the sweet, savory, aromatic curry broth. Excellent roti as well--great for sopping up the leftover liquid.


kuay tiew khua gai [$12.00] | rice noodles cooked in a wok with chicken, wild thai baby octopus, preserved cabbage, egg, green onion; served over romaine lettuce with a side of sambal chile.
We ended with a pretty innocuous dish courtesy of the Chef. It was almost pad see ew-like, with the combo of octopus and chicken working swimmingly alongside the noodles while the greenery added a fantastic crunch and lightness to things. Something you could easily take down a big plate of.


supermarket cake w/ vanilla ice cream [$5.00]
The lone dessert here is the supermarket cake, which is pretty much exactly as advertised (I'm curious which supermarket it's from). It's like something my mom would've put together for me in my youth, but somehow fits here with its subversiveness, the pairing of ice cream and cake gratifying in a simplistic sort of manner.

The Silver Lake dining scene has been taken up another notch with N+M Song, which brings much of what we like about the WeHo outpost out east. At its core, the restaurant certainly takes inspiration from the original location, but the food, the vibe make it read like a more rambunctious younger sibling. It's a bit more neighborhood-y, a bit more off-the-cuff, and just different enough to keep things interesting.

---

Afterwards, we headed on over to Okrumong in Koreatown and tried their Black Snow Bowl with Red Bean [$8.25] and Fresh baked Rice Cake [$2.25]. Pretty good, though I don't think it'll replace the Fruity Pebbles-enhanced versions at Mr. Coffee any time soon.

Maude (Beverly Hills, CA) [4]

November 11, 2014, 9:30 pm

≫ Next: Belcampo Meat Co. (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Night + Market Song (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Maude Restaurant
212 S Beverly Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310.859.3418
www.mauderestaurant.com
Tue 11/11/2014, 09:30p-12:25a



This year, I've had threelovelymeals at Maude so far. Ingredients featured were citrus, rhubarb, and morel, but from the outset, the month to look out for was November, when truffles would be showcased. This month's reservation was also the most difficult to score yet, and took a team of four calling the restaurant for about half an hour non-stop once reservations opened, but we finally did get through...


Maude's truffle menu featured both Italian Alba and French Périgord varietals and weighed in at a hefty $250 a head, over three times the cost of a normal meal here, though it was slightly longer than usual. The standard wine pairing, meanwhile, was also considerably pricier, and tacked on an additional $125 (or double that for the upgraded pairing). Click for larger versions.


1a: Pop Tart
Rene Geoffroy, "Empriente," 1er Cru, Aÿ, Champagne, France 2007
I was guilty of consuming many an unheated Pop-Tart during my college days, but the delightfully flaky examples tonight ruled them all. Miniature in size, but packed with flavor, we got loads of strong, sweet onion up front joined by just a hint of black truffle.


1b: Cannoli
Rene Geoffroy, "Empriente," 1er Cru, Aÿ, Champagne, France 2007
Tiny cannoli came wrapped in Parmesan and filled with ricotta-white truffle and celeriac. They were fun little bites, with lushness of the cheese working beautifully alongside the truffle while the Parm added a hit of salt to the mix. I would've liked a crisper texture on these, though.


2: Soup | Potato, Kohlrabi, Escarole
Rene Geoffroy, "Empriente," 1er Cru, Aÿ, Champagne, France 2007
The soup course arrived hot and hearty and heartwarming, its comforting base of potato brightened by the bittersweet combination of broccoli, escarole, and kohlrabi while truffle contributed an earthy, lingering undertone to the dish.


3: Squash Salad | Persimmon, Truffle Vinaigrette, Brown Butter
Occhipinti, "SP68," Sicilia, Italy 2012
I wasn't particularly looking forward to a squash salad, but the course was a pleasant surprise. The squash (roast-pickled-poached) conveyed a sugary, spicy, almost autumnal quality to it, augmented by the persimmon cream and brown butter. The greenery up top, meanwhile, was key in adding a zesty counterpoint in the dish, while the truffle was restrained, contributing a whisper of funk that offset the sweetness present. This course also had the best wine pairing for me, with the fruity notes in the food really linking up here, tempering the Occhipinti and making for a more floral drinking experience.


4: Scallop Crudo | Truffle Soil, Beets, Salsify
Dominio do Bebei, "Lapola," Ribera Sacra, Spain 2011
Scallop arrived seared on one side only, accompanied by pickled salsify, beet jus, edamame, and a truffle-hazelnut soil. My concern here was that I would've liked the main ingredient cooked rarer (it didn't strike me as very crudo-like), but taste-wise the dish hit some high points, with a smart interplay between the brine of the scallop and the multifaceted notes of bitter, nutty, sweet, and musky conveyed.


5: Hen Egg | Brioche, Creamed Leek, Alba Truffle
Liquid Farm, "White Hill," Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, CA 2012
It's hard to miss the mark when a runny egg and truffle are in play, and indeed, this next course didn't let us down. You had the fantastic aromatics of the Albas on the nose, while on the palate, the sweet, astringent nature of the leeks really made itself known, played perfectly against the saltiness of bacon while brioche moderated the dish. One of my dining companions deemed the course Vichyssoise-like, a natural pairing to the Chard.


6: Turbot | Endive, Spinach, Truffle Coulis
Chenu, "Aux Clous," 1er Cru, Savigny-les-Beaune, Burgundy, France 2012
Turbot came out firm and substantial, with a wonderfully crisp skin and just loaded with briny goodness. Burgundy truffle seemed to intensify the fish's flavors even more, while the sweetness of sunchoke veered in the other direction. My favorite part here, though, was the fennel-endive, which added an apparent zestiness that overarched things laudably.


In preparation for the more truffle-forward courses to follow, our rather comely server brought out the truffle storage box, which, when opened, perfumed the entire surrounding area with the heady, intoxicating musk of the Albas.


7a: Acquerello Risotto | White Alba Truffle
Francesco Rinaldi, "Cannubbio," Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007
Albas are best showcased when freshly shaved over a simple dish, and indeed, the truffles shined here, adding a palpable potency to the creamy, lush, Castelmagno-enriched risotto while a drizzle of beurre noisette added further depth to the well-textured rice. This was something that you'd just want to take down an entire big bowl of.


7b: Hand-Cut Tagliatelle | White Alba Truffle
Francesco Rinaldi, "Cannubbio," Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007
The other pasta option brought out some tagliatelle, another commendable preparation that presented the properly al dente noodles as a fitting stage on which the truffle could really sing. A very nice pairing to the accompanying wine, too.


8: Veal Sweetbread | Cauliflower, Sauce Perigord
Francesco Rinaldi, "Cannubbio," Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007
Veal sweetbread was gorgeously prepared, a nugget of crisp, deeply savory, offal-y goodness that was taken up a notch by the slice of Périgord layered on top. Great use of the cauliflower purée to even out the bite.


9: Venison | Parsnip, Matsutake, Chocolate
B. Levet, "Les Journaries," Côte Rôtie, Rhone, France 2007
Our final savory gave us some venison, a satisfying, beautifully-spiced specimen finished by the funk of truffle while the mushrooms added further depth and texture to the dish.


We didn't quite get our fill of Alba truffle, so we ordered up another round of pasta, at a pricey $80 a plate.


10: Teleme | Walnut, Cranberry, Black Truffle
For our cheese course, Teleme from San Francisco was sandwiched with black truffle, the sublime nature of the Périgord melding seamlessly with the wonderfully mild, soft, nutty cheese. As good as that was, the included white truffle-acacia honey elevated the course even further, adding a delectably sweet finish to things.


Our pre-dessert featured an apple sorbet with black truffle granola, yogurt espuma, and a celery-apple consommé. The sorbet was super apple-y, an appropriately bright, bracing presentation dutifully set off by the rich, nutty truffle tuile.


11: Toffee Cake | Alba Truffle Ice Cream, Raisin, Pomegranate
Boxler, "Sommerberg," Grand Cru, Riesling Vendages Tardives, Alsace, France 2009
For dessert proper, lemon-infused coffee cake delivered a tasty combination of tangy and sweet flavors, amped up by the zippiness of the raisin and pomegranate purée. The star of the show here, though, was clearly the white truffle-vanilla ice cream, while showed off a flawless combination of sweet and savory that left me wanting a whole pint of the stuff--damn. Nice texture from the dehydrated mousse chips, too.


Mignardises tonight comprised a sweet-earthy black truffle macaron, a super rich white chocolate truffle with white truffle, and my favorite, the palet d'or with its fantastic layers of pastry.


Tonight's parting gift was the best yet: a truffle grater. Not sure when I'm ever going to use it, but it certainly looks impressive (and even came emblazoned with the Maude logo).

Once again, Stone and company banged out another great meal, a eminently thoughtful exploration of the most sought after ingredient in the kitchen. When dealing with truffle, one's tendency is to overdo it, but I appreciated the restraint shown in many of the courses. At the same time though, we were able to enjoy the unbridled, unmitigated essence of truffle throughout the evening as well. This one's going to be hard to top, so we'll have to look out for the line-up for next year...

---

Belcampo Meat Co. (Los Angeles, CA)

November 8, 2014, 2:45 pm

≫ Next: China Red (Arcadia, CA)

≪ Previous: Maude (Beverly Hills, CA) [4]

$

0

0

Belcampo Meat Co at Grand Central Market
317 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.625.0304
www.belcampomeatco.com/restaurant/los-angeles/
Sat 11/08/2014, 02:45p-06:30p





Continuing my exploration of Grand Central Market, my latest meal here brought me to Belcampo Meat Company, which opened on March 20th. Belcampo's parent company is actually relatively new, and was founded in 2011 by Anya Fernald and Todd Robinson as an organic/humane/sustainable processing plant near Mount Shasta. In 2012, the group expanded into butcher shops-slash-restaurants, becoming a vertically integrated operation, and the GCM outpost is one of five current locations (the others are Larkspur, Palo Alto, Santa Barbara, San Francisco). Running things here is Manager/Head Butcher Jered Standing, while kitchen duties are handled by Central Coast native Robbie Arnold-Starr and sous chef Brian Hoffman.


Belcampo runs a high-end butchery operation at GCM, with cases of meat and various cured/smoked/charcuterie products available for sale.


We were here to eat, though. Belcampo's lunch menu features a selection of sandwiches and sides, though brunch and dinner are also served. To drink, think a handful of beers on tap and a few wines. Click for larger versions.


As usual, we brought our own booze and kicked things off with a can of the 2014 Fort George Brewery Fresh IPA, a limited edition wet-hopped IPA brewed in collaboration with Loftus Ranches. It was indeed fresh, with a piney, resinous quality both on the nose and the palate, joined by a touch of grapefruit and not much maltiness at all, the whole thing finishing on the bitter side.


Belcampo Cheeseburger [$12.50] | 5.5 Oz Dry-Aged & Grass-Fed Beef, Cheddar & Caramelized Onions
We had to start with Belcampo's signature item, a burger featuring wagyu-Angus chuck-sirloin-brisket, loosely packed, joined by Cheswick white cheddar, caramelized onions, and ketchup-aioli, all on a buttered BreadBar bun. It certainly wasn't pretty, but the flavor was there, a pure, focused beefiness that really spoke to the grass-feeding and dry-aging going on. The richness of the patty melded nicely with the sweet onion and cheese, and I appreciated the lightness imparted by the lettuce here, too. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


Hot Dog [$4.00]
The hot dog was pretty much just a hot dog, albeit a tasty, well-textured example. Good with a dab of mustard, and I enjoyed the snap on the casing here as well.


My next bottle was the 2014 Black Raven Brewing Unabridged, a saison with Sumo mandarins and toasted acacia chips aged five months in wine barrels, brewed in collaboration with Stone. It was a unique beer, with lots of tart citrus joined by a focused bit of dry, earthy funk, everything underscored by a vinous quality and leading to a long, lasting finish.


Philadelphia Cheesesteak [$12.00] | Thinly Sliced Seared Beef, Peppers & Onions, House Cheese Sauce
The Philly cheese steak was a favorite of mine, the goodness of the beef commingling beautifully with the homemade Whiz, all while peppers and onions added a bit of bite to the sandwich.


Spicy Fried Broccolini [$6.00]
The broccolini was also a winner, arriving just crunchy enough and loaded with plenty of spice and citrus to offset the inherent bitterness of the vegetable.


Going back to IPAs, we had here the 2014 Ballast Point Grapefruit Sculpin. Sculpin was one of the first IPAs that helped turn me on to the style, and this fruited variation arguably improves on the original, really augmenting the intrinsic tropical, citrus fruit notes in the beer. Summer-y and refreshing.


Pulled Lamb Belly [$12.00] | Harissa Aioli, Arugula & Cilantro
I was also a fan of the lamb belly, which made good use of harissa to go along with the tender shards of meat here. Great zippiness from the arugula-cilantro combo to boot.


Moving to a sour now, the 2014 Firestone Walker Agrestic was another oak-aged, Barrelworks-only release from the brewery. Done in the wild red ale style, this was expectedly sour and acidic, with a persistent funkiness throughout joined by an oaky character and finishing dry and crisp.


Beef Tallow Fries [$4.00]
Fries were properly crisp, but not overly so, and went great with a dab of the housemade ketchup. My only concern was that they were a touch on the salty side.


Chili [$5.00]
The chili really showed off the flavors of the beef and beans, but I wanted it "wetter," so that the flavors could meld a little more.


Next up was the limited-edition 2014 Terrapin Imperial Pumpkin Pie Porter, a pumpkin beer with cinnamon, ginger, allspice, and cloves that was apropos for the season. I got quite a bit of roast, coffee, and chocolate in the beer, and though the pumpkin and spices were there, I really wanted that aspect to be more apparent.


Meatloaf Sando [$11.00] | Sriracha Aioli, Arugula, Onion & Provolone
The meatloaf arrived well-spiced and not overly dry as it often tends to be, with the provolone adding further richness to the meat. Nice use of the Sriracha and arugula to brighten things up here, too. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


Fast Burger [$8.00] | Double
Belcampo's version of a fast food burger came out on the messy side, a combo of dual 3-ounce patties, American cheese, lettuce, onion, and tomato. It was tasty though, a classic pairing of meat-cheese-veg with a little more depth thanks to the use of grass-fed beef. Mouseover for a secondary photo.


The 2014 Rockmill Brewery Saison Noir didn't quite sit well with me. There was a roasty, coffee-tinged flavor profile here, along with a bit of dark fruit going on, but not much saison-character at all. It just seemed a bit off.



For a dessert interlude, one of my dining companions busted out some squash pie and assorted cookies from the newly-opened Gjusta in Venice (by the Gjelina folks). The actual pie was pretty tasty, though the cookies disappointed, veering thin, tough, dry, and bland for the most part.


The Miso Butterscotch Cookie from Stumptown Coffee fared much better.


Next to drink was the 2014 Evil Twin / Crooked Stave Ryan And The Gosling, a Brett ale made with citrus peel and juice. The beer wasn't quite as dreamy as its namesake, but was enjoyable nonetheless, with a pronounced citric quality to go with the dry, spicy, yeasty slant of the brew.


The Chef then sent out a special, a French cut of beef from the top of the hind leg called La Poire, served with chanterelles, leeks, parsley, fleur de sel, and jus de bouef. The meat was cooked over medium for tenderness, and was flavorful, its savoriness amped up by the mushrooms and jus while the greenery imparted a bit of levity to the dish. I would've liked more brightness, more acidity though to kick things up a notch.


Chicken Salad [$11.00] | Tarragon, Golden Raisins, Celery, Green Onions
Our final savory brought out the chicken salad sandwich, a much more "chicken-y" presentation than you typically get, with a deeper, earthier sort of taste countered by the sweetness of the raisins while the veggies worked in lightening things. Mouseover for a secondary photo.



We then went over to McConnell's for ice cream, ordering up scoops of Blackberry & Bearss Lime Sorbet/Toasted Coconut Almond Chip and Mint Chip/Eureka Lemon & Marionberries. Yum.


We couldn't resist mixing in some beer: the super refreshing Stiegl Radler Grapefruit with the sorbet, and the Prairie Bomb! with the Toasted Coconut Almond Chip (excellent) and Mint Chip (disconcerting).

Belcampo's yet another compelling addition to the line-up at Grand Central Market, serving up some tasty meat-forward dishes while operating a legit butchery enterprise. As for what's next, they're slated to open a larger location in Santa Monica in the coming months, set in the old Dakota Lounge space and with cocktails from Julian Cox and Josh Goldman. And if that wasn't enough, there's supposedly a third outpost in the works for next year at West 3rd Street and Laurel, the old address of a Baskin-Robbins.

China Red (Arcadia, CA)

November 15, 2014, 11:40 am

≫ Next: A Truffle and Wagyu Thanksgiving

≪ Previous: Belcampo Meat Co. (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

China Red Restaurant
855 S Baldwin Ave, Arcadia, CA 91007
626.445.3700
Sat 11/15/2014, 11:40a-01:00p





One of the more promising Chinese debuts of recent times has to be China Red, which opened last October after switching over from the similarly monikered Red Chamber (its Chinese name has remained the same). The restaurant is the work of one Carol Xu Zhang, and is meant to be a higher-end eatery, which means no push carts for dim sum. Apparently, the place opened with the former chef of Shanghai No. 1 at the helm, though I have no idea if he's actually still here.


Inside, things are probably nicer than you expect. Prior to its current incarnation, the space was formerly home to the aforementioned Red Chamber, Park Avenue, Hop Li, and supposedly started life as a Sizzler back in the day.


China Red's dim sum menu offers up all the standard selections (priced at $2.38-$3.38-$4.38-$5.38), along with a few more unusual/interesting/modern choices and a good number of your typical plated dishes as well. Click for larger versions.


To pair with the food, we brought along a magnum of 1998 Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel that was purchased almost exactly four years ago at a Bocuse d'Or USA benefit dinner at Providence. We'd been waiting to open the bottle ever since then, and it didn't let us down. A robust shade of yellow, the wine was light on the nose, with a slight oxidative quality at first that soon dissipated. Taste-wise, you got sweet notes of citrus and apple, backed by a subtle undercurrent of minerality and just enough acidity to keep things fresh--very good. Corkage on the bottle was $15, as we had the staff open it (the wax seal was difficult to remove).



Sticky Rice Wrap with Chicken & Abalone (L) [$4.38]
We got things going with an impressive version of nuomi ji. It was one of my favorite items here, with a great interplay of sweet and savory over a base of sticky rice. Some very hearty, satisfying flavors going on, and I appreciated the unexpected addition of tender slices of abalone as well.


Baked BBQ Pork Bao (M) [$3.38]
The cha siu bao is a must-order at any dim sum place, but China Red's really was a pretty unique take on the baked variation. The filling I found a good mix of sweet and salty, but what set this apart was the actual bun, which was crumbly, flaky, and quite light. This is one to get.


Deep Fried Taro Dumplings (M) [$3.38]
I enjoyed the yutou jiao too, with its delightfully airy crust leading to meaty insides countered by a slight taro sugariness.


Pan Fried Turnip Cake (M) [$3.38]
Luobo gao was one of the strongest I've had, with a great char and crispness on the outside and a particularly creamy, lush interior that smartly played the mild turnip against the brine of xiami.


Pork & Shrimp Dumpling (M) [$3.38]
The staple of siu mai was on point: supple yet springy, with a good salinity conveyed by the shrimp.


Steamed Pork Ribs (M) [$3.38]
The paigu was also one of the better preparations I've tasted, with a nice depth of flavor courtesy of the black bean.


BBQ Pork Bao (S) [$2.38]
Compared to the baked cha siu bao above, the steamed versions were much more humdrum, though still tasty. I would've liked a lighter, slightly less dense bun though.


Steamed Shrimp Dumpling (M) [$3.38]
Har gow were quite enjoyable, with a great filling of briny, snappy shrimp. Superb with a dab of mustard, but if I had to nitpick, the skins were perhaps a touch sticky.


Steamed Asparagus Shrimp Rice Noodle Roll (M) [$3.38]
Xia chang really delivered, with the asparagus providing an extra dimension of crunch and bitterness to offset the well-cooked stuffing of shrimp. I appreciated how they put the soy sauce on the side here, too.


Ox Omasum with Pepper Sauce (M) [$3.38]
The niu baiye is basically cow stomach, and was very enjoyable here, delivering a satisfying bit of crunchiness and a mild earthiness augmented by great ginger-y notes in the dish.


With the Riesling all drunk up, we moved on to a beer, the 2014 The Bruery Atomic Kangarue, a collaborative brew produced with Smog City. Sticking with the wine theme, this one was a Belgian-style golden ale brewed with Semillon and Viognier grapes, Brettanomyces, then blended with a sour ale and dry-hopped with Amarillo. The beer hasn't been getting much love from critics, but I rather enjoyed it, finding it vinous on the nose, while on the palate, I got more of the same, joined by a dry, funky, mildly fruity character and an undercurrent of countering tartness.


Fried Minced Pork Dumpling (S) [$2.38]
Xian shuijiao were delectable, with their sweet-savory stuffing working nicely alongside their substantial, gelatinous-yet-crisp "football" skins. I would've liked a tad more filling here, however.


Fried Chow Fun with Beef [$9.98]
A plate of gan chao niu he was perfectly serviceable, and a nice change of pace from the dim sum.


Macau Style Egg Tart (M) [$3.38]
We had to get the daan taat too, of course, and it was one of the tastiest I've had, with a great mix of sweet and eggy flavors set over a wonderfully flaky crust.


Dry Scallop, Sweet Corn, and Fish Maw Congee (SP) [$5.38]
We concluded with a bowl of zhou, a hot, homey porridge that had the richness of the scallop paired with the mild rice while the dish finished with the lingering sweetness of corn. Nice bit of zestiness from the chive here, too.

We actually had a really solid meal at China Red, and found only minor quibbles with the food. In fact, it's probably my best dim sum experience of recent times. Cost-wise, it was perhaps a touch pricier than usual, but still came in at a very reasonable $19.95 per person, pre-tax/tip (and that included a couple plates of haam seoi gaau to go, not to mention corkage). Be sure to put this one on your list if you haven't already.

A Truffle and Wagyu Thanksgiving

November 28, 2014, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Bigmista's Barbecue & Sammich Shop (Long Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: China Red (Arcadia, CA)

$

0

0

A Truffle and Wagyu Thanksgiving
Fri 11/28/2014, 08:00p-10:30p




You might recall that I went to a truffle dinner at Maude a few weeks back. At the end of that meal, we were each presented with a truffle slicer and a membership to the restaurant's "Truffle Club," which allows members to purchase truffles through the restaurant. One of my dining companions took advantage of that offer, and bought two of the white beauties above for use at a post-Thanksgiving get-together.


Given the abundance of truffle, it was decided that we should start by pairing the delicacy with the sluttiest foods possible. As such, I brought over a Taco Bell Mexican Pizza, a staple of my sad childhood. I got the headiness of the truffle initially, but that quickly dissipated to the classic, comforting flavors of the faux-pizza. We didn't dare try it with the included Fire Sauce, for fear of overwhelming the truffle. That's exactly what happened with the Wienerschnitzel Chili Dog, though. Any semblance of the fungus was summarily obliterated on this one; it ate just like the middle-of-the-road dog it was.


To drink, we started off with something on the lighter side, the Alpine Willy Wheat Ale. There wasn't much to this one, with its sweet, nutty flavors coming awfully close to something you might get from an American macro. Apropos for the fast food, I suppose.


The Del Taco Deluxe Chili Cheddar Fries showed off the best bouquet, with the truffle really making itself known at first. But again, the potency of the chili quickly took over, leaving little trace of the treat. Perhaps the worst pairing was with the McDonald's McRib. The limited-time offering demonstrated no truffle at all, and all we got was a mish-mash of sweet-tangy notes over a base of restructured "pork rib."


My friend also purchased the "Japanese A-5 Wagyu New York Strip Steaks 24 oz. 4-pack" that he'd seen advertised at Costco for a while now. I'm still a bit surprised that Costco's even selling something like this, so I guess we weren't too shocked to discover that the beef was actually sourced Ariane Daguin's longstanding gourmet foods supplier D'Artagnan. As you can see, there was some beautiful marbling going on in the steaks.


As a point of comparison, he also procured four samples of the "Japanese Wagyu Strip Steak - 12oz" from New York butcher DeBragga. Taking a look at the photos, it's clear that the marbling of these Miyazaki-raised specimens was at another, near ridiculous level.


Next up was the 2014 Founders Dirty Bastard, a Scotch style ale that drank pretty true to its style, with plenty of caramel-y malt, roast, and slight bitterness, all in a smooth package.


The DeBragga was the first steak up to the plate, and we commenced with an example done sous vide. Naturally, the meat came out of the immersion circulator cooked, but rather unattractive looking.


As such, we definitely need to finish it in a cast iron pan, with butter, to give it a nice sear.


After shaving some white truffle on top, we dug in. Unfortunately, the experience proved to us that there can indeed be too much of a good thing. The steak came out a gelatinous mass that didn't really eat like beef, but more like pure fat (the thinness of the cut probably didn't help, either). We couldn't even finish the entire thing. If anything's deserving of the moniker unctuous, this would be it.


The seasonally-appropriate 2014 Almanac Heirloom Pumpkin Barleywine was next, comprised of 50% barleywine brewed with pumpkins and aged in rye and brandy barrels as well as 50% fresh ale brewed with spices. In terms of aroma, this one had lots of spice, commingled with roasty pumpkin, while on the palate, you got the same, plus more maltiness and barrel character, along with a lingering fruit sweetness.


As with the example above, the second DeBragga steak was seasoned simply with salt and pepper. However, this one we cooked completely on cast iron, again with butter.


This one turned out quite a bit better, thanks to the far less overwhelming amount of marbling present. There was actually a nice balance here between lean and fat, and texturally the strip was on point as well. Nice earthy accent from the truffle, too


Our lone IPA of the night was the 2014 Figueroa Mountain Lizards Mouth Imperial Double IPA. I found it rather one-note, just super pine-y, super hoppy, without much of the tropical citrus fruit that I like, nor much in terms of a malt counterpoint.


Another attendee prepared some potatoes gratiné and carrots to provide some semblance of balance to the meal.


A brief detour to wine brought us the 2006 Noon Eclipse, a Grenache blend from South Australia. Super intense nose on this one, bursting with loads of earthiness, jam, and spice. Taste-wise, you got more of that, intermingled with some savory, tart nuances as well, the whole thing finishing long. Pretty tasty.


Moving on to the Costco/D'Artagnan steaks now, we began with a cast iron prep, again seasoned with S&P and cooked in butter.


We definitely did this one the rare side, verging on Pittsburgh style with its cold center and crispy crust. I found it quite satisfying though--with a hearty, toothsome beefy quality--and surprisingly well-integrated when it came to the copious amounts of marbling present.


The beer of the night, unsurprisingly, was the 2014 Goose Island Bourbon County Brand Barleywine Ale, which was just picked up earlier in the day during GI's much hyped Black Friday release. Aged in third-use barrels that previously held bourbon and later the brewery's own Bourbon County Stout, this smelled amazing, with boatloads of heady dark fruit goodness joined by notes of the barrel. On the palate, we got wave upon wave of chocolate, molasses, vanilla, and more bourbon character, everything leading to a long-lasting finish brimming with more dark fruit. I actually liked this better than the '13, which was already damn good.


Last up to bat was the Costco stripsteak, this one done sous vide and finished in the pan. It was the winner tonight, with the best, most cohesive presentation of lean and fat, a delicious, delightfully-texture example that wasn't far off from what you'd get at a good steakhouse.


The 2013 Widmer Brothers Barrel-Aged Old Embalmer had a hard time following up the BCBBW, and paled in comparison. Also a barleywine, and aged in pinot noir barrels, it was much thinner, less substantial and less powerful. The nose was light caramel and malt, while there was more to the taste, with the barrel character coming through, alongside an apparent hoppy bitterness.


Dessert also veered toward childhood indulgences and comprised a tub of Rite-Aid/Thrifty Chocolate Malted Krunch, along with white truffle. It was perhaps the best pairing, with the earthiness of the truffle adding a great savory edge to the sweetness of the ice cream. Yum.


Finishing things off was the 2014 Southern Tier Goat Boy, an imperial weizenbock. This one had the classic aromas of banana, caramel, and spice, while in terms of taste, we noted more banana goodness and spice, along with dark fruit, malt, and a distinct bread-y quality.

Lessons learned from tonight (none too surprising): there is such a thing as too much marbling, and there's a damn good reason why you pair fresh white truffle with simple, more delicately flavored dishes like risotto.

Bigmista's Barbecue & Sammich Shop (Long Beach, CA)

December 7, 2014, 7:25 pm

≫ Next: Kang Hodong Baekjeong (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: A Truffle and Wagyu Thanksgiving

$

0

0

Bigmista's Barbeque
3444 N Los Coyotes Diagonal, Long Beach, CA 90808
562.283.6590
www.bigmista.com
Tue 11/25/2014, 07:25p-09:30p





Followers of the LA BBQ scene will have no doubt been tracking the whereabouts of Bigmista's, the farmers' market staple helmed by pitmaster Neil Strawder and wife Phyllis, who manages the administrative/financial parts of business. The Strawders were supposed to open up earlier this year at The Medallion in Downtown (where Keizo Seki's Zo is situated), but a falling out with management scrapped those plans. Fortunately, the couple was able to secure another location in Long Beach, at the site of the old Ferraro's Bakery & Pastries, and the spot debuted in mid-November.

A bit of history for the uninitiated: Strawder grew up in Texas, though he didn't learn to barbeque over there. And although his parents did instill in him an appreciation for food and cooking, he never really pursued the culinary arts in his earlier years. After attending Texas State University, Texas Southern University, and Lamar University, he worked various jobs including DJ, bartender, Web designer, bodyguard, and finally, Wells Fargo treasury services associate. It was right before he started at Wells when he really began getting in barbecue, spurred on by the helpful people on the BBQ Brethren Forums.

The year was 2004, and Strawder soon purchased his first smoker (which he put on his apartment's balcony), honed his technique, and formed a competition team called Four Q BBQ with online buddies Sylvie Curry, Luis Ramirez, and Shuji Sakai. He took only a slight break from competing after daughter Morgan was born in July 2007, and in October 2008, he and Phyllis decided to make Bigmista's into an official business. They started out at the Watts Farmers' Market, and eventually made their way to several more across the Southland, most notably the event at Atwater Village. By early February, Strawder was in five markets and was able to quit his job at Wells Fargo.

He then parlayed his local renown into a position as Grillmaster Spokesperson for Fresh & Easy in July that year. The next May, he became a finalist at the inaugural Vendy Awards, and then filmed an episode of Over Your Head for HGTV. This was followed by an appearance on Season 2 of BBQ Pitmasters, and The Ultimate BBQ Showdown in May 2011. In April 2013, it was announced that the Strawders were looking for a brick-and-mortar location in Long Beach, but it was soon teased that they'd be finding a home at The Medallion in DTLA instead. Bigmista was supposed to open by May this year, but disagreements about the build-out resulted in the Strawders walking away from the deal in October, which brings us to where we are today.


Bigmista's Spicewine Ironworks smoker ("Olivia J. PIMA") sat parked out in front of the restaurant, and toward the end of our time here, we even saw "Divalicious" Strawder starting on the next day's meats.


Here we see Bigmista's hand-written menu, which changes frequently, especially when things get sold out (which tends to happen). Sandwiches seem to be popular here, and are served on bread baked in-house, but we were here for the meat. Click for a larger version.


We sat outside and BYOB'd, starting with the Alpine Mandarin Nectar, one of their less celebrated beers. Brewed with honey, orange, and coriander, this one drank straightforwardly, with the beer's base of malty flavors accented by a citrus-y spice.


Spare Ribs [$7.00 / ½lb]
The food got off to a strong start with the spare ribs, which were some of the tastiest I've had in a while: super tender, toothsome, and nicely seasoned with a great mix of sweet, savory, and smoky flavors.


Potato Salad [$6.00 / large]
The potato salad was tangier than usual, due to the addition of what I believe was mustard.


Our next beer was also on the lighter side, the 2014 Cigar City Oktoberfest Märzen, a lager style that I don't drink all that often. It went down easy though, with its sweet, malty, bread-y character tempered by the right amount of hop bitterness.


Brisket [$8.90 / ½lb]
Brisket arrived supple and flaky, with a satisfying beefiness to it, though I wanted more smoke. I would've liked to have seen the meat wetter too, but the accompanying sweet/spicy sauces did help in that matter.


Collard Greens [$6.25 / large]
Collards were earthy and bitter, just as you'd want. One of my dining companions even remarked that these were the best she'd had in the state.


Next up was a super-fresh bottle of the 2014 Beachwood Citraholic, which was, as the name implies, brewed with Citra hops, but also Columbus, Simcoe, and Warrior. Think super hoppy and citrus-y on the nose, with a taste that offered up more of the same, along with an increased pine-y character and not too much malt backing.


Pulled Pork [$7.80 / ½lb]
The pulled pork was another standout, and better than most, coming out really tender, porky, and with a subtle smokiness and tang that brought it all together. Some nice crispier bits in there, too.


Pineapple Coleslaw [$3.50 / medium]
Slaw was crisp and bright, with a distinct tropical fruitiness to it. I found it sweeter than I'd prefer, though, and would've liked a creamier presentation.


Our first sour of the night brought out the newly-released 2014 Prairie Cherry Funk. The beer did indeed drink funky, with a farmhouse quality to it finished with the dry, tart zing of the fruit.


Pastrami [$11.00 / ½lb]
Pastrami was a table favorite, a well-textured, well-seasoned preparation that really showed off the goodness of the meat, along with a restrained combination of spice and smoke to round things out.


Barbecue Beans [$3.75 / medium]
The BBQ pinto beans managed to be my favorite side, really standing out above your typical preparations with its fantastic hit of peppery spice.


Time for more sour: the 2013 Allagash Merveilleux was a blend of five beers fermented in both bourbon and wine casks, along with the holy trinity of Brettanomyces, Pediococcus, and Lactobacillus. The resultant brew showed off a mix of fruit and oak on the nose, which continued on to the palate, where it was accompanied by more acidity and some musty nuances.


Hot Links [$9.25 / ½lb]
Hot links were snappy and lived up to their name, with a sharp, focused heat that creeped up on you.



Q-Bun (Pork or Beef) [$2.00]
Mrs. Bun [$0.50]
Make sure to sample Bigmista's Q-Buns, too, which are rolls stuffed with your choice of pulled pork or brisket. We tried the brisket version and found it rather tasty, with a sweet-savory interplay that reminded me of a down south rendition of cha siu bao. Also available are the Mrs. Buns, which come unstuffed.


Our final beer was the limited edition 2014 Prairie Christmas Bomb!. It's basically a Christmas-spiced version of the standard brew, and drank as such, with the classic flavors of coffee and chocolate here joined by an overarching sweet, cinnamon-y spice.


Turkey Breast [$8.90 / ½lb]
Given how close we were to Thanksgiving, turkey was an apropos choice, and was one of the better preparations of the bird I've had: moist, tender, and just smoky enough to keep things interesting.


Mini Pumpkin Pie
We ended, fitting, with a miniature sweet potato pie, which we all found surprisingly delicious. We're told that it's a secret family recipe from Phyllis' mother.

Unfortunately, I never sampled Bigmista's meat at the various farmers' markets, so I don't have a proper basis for comparison, but the Strawders seem to be off to a good start here, with the ribs, pulled pork, and pastrami being early favorites of ours. It's been quite a journey for the two, so it's great to see them finally settling down with the opening of this B&M shop--another step in growing LA's barbeque legitimacy I'm sure.

Kang Hodong Baekjeong (Los Angeles, CA)

December 10, 2014, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: The Gorbals (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

≪ Previous: Bigmista's Barbecue & Sammich Shop (Long Beach, CA)

$

0

0

Kang Ho-Dong Baekjeong KBBQ
3465 W 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90020
213.384.9678
www.baekjeong.co.kr
Mon 11/17/2014, 08:00p-11:20p





I believe that this is the first time I've reported on a Korean barbeque place in LA, so it makes sense to start at one of the best. This eponymous restaurant is the work of ssireum wrestler-turned-entertainer Kang Ho-dong, who operates dozens of these places across Korea, both under the KHB moniker and the slightly lower-end "678." The LA outpost debuted at the start of 2012, and joins Baekjeongs in nearby Buena Park and Flushing, New York. Meanwhile, there are 678s in Honolulu, Atlanta, Sydney, Manila, and Guangzhou, as well as Ahgassi Gopchang, another KBBQ place right here in Koreatown.


Baekjeong occupies a storefront right in the center of Chapman Market, a large, bustling, somewhat smoky space overarched by a maze of air vents. We missed the cardboard cutouts of Mr. Kang, though.


Kang Hodong Baekjeong's menu is small, perhaps the smallest I've encountered at a KBBQ joint. I appreciate the focus though. The drink list, meanwhile, is expectedly underwhelming, so naturally we brought our own beer (corkage was negotiated to $7 a bottle). Click for larger versions.


I started with the 2014 Kern River Citra Double IPA, probably one of the most hyped IPAs ever (limited production, sold only at the brewery, through a lottery). I'm not sure if it's quite worth the hubbub surrounding it, but it was indeed tasty, with a floral, tropical nose of grapefruit that continued on to the palate, where it was joined by a countervailing hop bitterness and just the slightest undercurrent of malt.


Baekjeong doesn't do a massive number of banchan, but what they do provide is solid. The kimchijeon was an early standout with its in-your-face funky, spicy flavors.


Mul kimchi, meanwhile, was light, tangy, and a refreshing kick in the pants.


Crunchy kongnamul came with a topping of spicy gochujang.


The Logsdon Fresh Hop Seizoen was another winner, really floral and fruity smelling, while taste-wise, you got more of the same, joined by a pleasant amount of spice, bitterness, and yeasty saison notes. Delicious and easy-drinking.


The requisite baechu kimchi was on point, and probably a bit funkier than the stuff one typically finds.


Danhobak, a.k.a. kabocha squash, arrived topped with syrup, raisins, and nuts, making for an almost dessert-like experience.


Next, I popped the 2013 Perennial Hereafter, a Belgian golden with white sage and pears, brewed in collaboration with Penrose Brewing Company. I really enjoyed this one as well, with its great sage aromatics and tasty interplay of fruity pear, herb, and spice on the tongue, all underscored by a tinge of bitterness and yeast.


You get a special wasabi-enhanced, soy- and rice wine-based house dipping sauce with onion and jalapeno, a sweet-savory concoction that paired swimmingly with the meats. There was also the standard salt-sesame oil combo on the side, too.


The gas- and charcoal-fired grill setup was unique as well, with trenches sectioned off for corn-cheese, egg custard, and veggies. Note, also, that unlike at most KBBQ places, the cooking of the various meats is actually done for you by the staff.


Another beer highlight for me was the 2014 The Bruery Tart of Darkness with Cherries & Vanilla, a sour stout aged on oak. I got a strong bouquet of cherry intermingled with malt, which led to more fruit and a suanmei-esque tartness on the palate. This was balanced by the dark, roasty, characteristics from the stout, while the vanilla added just a whisper of sweetness to it all.



Beef Combo (S) [$49.99]
Though it is possible to order à la carte here, the standard unit of consumption seems to be one of the meat combos. The small beef combo we ordered contained Thinly Sliced Brisket, Marinated Boneless Short Rib, Prime Boneless Short Rib, and a Beef Brisket Soybean Paste Stew.



Pork Combo (S) [$44.99]
The corresponding pork combo, meanwhile, brought out Premium Seared Pork Belly, Premium Pork Jowl, Thinly Sliced Spicy Pork Belly, and Kimchi Stew.


Our sole cider was the Reverend Nat's Envy, a collabo with Barley Brown's Brew Pub. I really liked this one, with its sweet, spicy, almost autumnal qualities commingled with a musty, funky character that lent a pleasing complexity.



Thinly Sliced Brisket
We commenced with the ubiquitous chadol bagi, which had a nice mix of tender and crispy bits along with a delightful smoky flair.



Premium Pork Jowl
Hang jun sal was spot on, slightly chewy and sponge-y to the bite, and brimming with porky goodness, fat, and char.


The 2013 The Bruery Mash & Grind was an English barleywine with Portola coffee, aged in bourbon barrels. This one was smooth, with a malty, caramel-esque, bourbon-y character cut by omnipresent overtones of bitter coffee.



Prime Boneless Short Rib
The kkot sal definitely delivered, a beautiful cut of meat that cooked up tender and juicy, with a delicate beefy flavor.



Beef Brisket Soybean Paste Stew / Kimchi Stew
The meat combos come with your choices of stew, so naturally we had one of each. The doenjang jjigae arrived hearty and satisfying, with a comforting depth to it, while the kimchi jjigae was more in-your-face, really showing off the potency of the pickle.


Moving on, the next beer was the 2014 Heavy Seas The Greater Pumpkin. An ale brewed with pumpkin and spices and aged in bourbon barrels, this one was smooth and appropriately autumnal, with its notes of sweet-spice linger long, playing well off of the malt, vanilla, and oak present.



Premium Seared Pork Belly
Samgyeopsal is always a must-get for me, and the version here didn't disappoint, a particularly porcine prep with a good balance of lean, fat, and char. I appreciated the thicker cut on the meat, too, which made for a more satisfying eating experience.


Marinated Boneless Short Rib
You can't go wrong with the jumulleok either, an especially tender cut with a tasty mix of savory and sweet flavors.


I'd never had anything quite like the 2014 The Bruery Soroboruo before. It was a sour Scotch ale, aged in bourbon barrels, with heather flowers added. I liked it better than I thought I would though, with the beer's base of dark, rich, malty, oaky flavors balanced by a tart bit of funk, the heather adding a lovely floral quality toward the finish.


Thinly Sliced Spicy Pork Belly
The final meat from our combos was the most heavy-handed, as the spice and heat in the dish tended to overwhelm the natural goodness of the pork. That being said, I certainly didn't mind eating it. Note, also, that this was the only meat that was cooked in the kitchen and merely finished on our grill.



Lunch Box [$6.99]
The most intriguing dish of the night was the dosirak, presented as a child's lunchbox filled with rice, egg, seaweed, veggies, and kimchi. The box is then shaken violently by a server--Devon Espinosa would be proud--and presented as a sort of a bibimbap. It's as tasty as you'd expect, with a good amount of heat and a umami-rich kick from the nori that really binds it all together.


At this point, we got into the more "desserty" beers, starting with the 2014 Belching Beaver Horchata Imperial Stout. A new release created for the brewery's second anniversary, this one was pretty tasty, though not all that horchata-esque. Rather, it conveyed a cinnamon-y sort of spice, along with notes of coffee and chocolate, making for a smooth, drinkable beer.




Beef Tongue [$24.99]
Tongue is one of my favs for KBBQ purposes, and here the hyeo shined, coming out well-textured and dripping with bovine goodness. Even better when taken with a bite of the included onions.


Sticking with something sweet, we had here the Karl Strauss Peanut Butter Cup Porter. I wasn't a huge fan of this, finding the peanut butter character on the weak side. In this style, I'd much prefer to drink the Peanut Butter Milk Stout from Belching Beaver.




Prime Rib Eye [$31.99]
Deungsim came out looking rather impressive, and wasn't bad to eat, either. It was certainly the most steak-like of the meats, and ate surprisingly tender, with a pure beefy relish that paired especially well with a dab of sesame oil.


Our final beer was also of the pumpkin type, the Uinta Oak Jacked Imperial Pumpkin Ale, brewed with spices and aged in oak. Lots of malty, caramel-y sweetness on this one, along with plenty of spicy notes and a hint of oaky vanilla, though I wanted to taste more actual pumpkin.


Beef Tartare [$21.99]
We also made sure to try Beakjeong's yukhoe, basically a Korean beef tartar topped with raw egg and accompanied by julienned bae pear and cucumber. The raw beef was the star here, its soy-enhanced flavors smartly set off by the sweetness of the fruit and the zesty ginger.




Marinated Pork Collar [$21.99]
Last up was the marinated pork collar, which arrived wonderfully textured, and brimming with a commixture of sweet and piggy savors. A fitting conclusion to a memorable meal.

Kang Hodong managed to live up to expectations, delivering a great meal that stands as arguably the top Korean barbeque experience I've had here in LA. The meat selection, though limited, was top notch; you could taste the quality, as clichéd as that sounds. Service, meanwhile, went as well as you could expect, and the atmosphere was thoroughly convivial, which is, of course, part of the fun of KBBQ. It's no wonder that this place is constantly busy.

The Gorbals (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

December 14, 2014, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Black Hogg (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

≪ Previous: Kang Hodong Baekjeong (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

The Gorbals Restaurant
216 W 5th Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.488.3408
www.thegorbalsla.com
Tue 12/09/2014, 08:00p-11:25p





I have to give Ilan Hall credit for opening up The Gorbals in late 2009 in a somewhat sketchy area in Downtown, well before the likes of Bäco Mercat, Zo, and the like moved in. Set in the historic, haunted Alexandria Hotel, The Gorbals has been a solid mainstay in DTLA for over five years, and even debuted an attached sports bar, Bar Mitzvah, back in June, which links the restaurant with a new entrance on 5th Street. However, Hall and company recently announced that they'll be vacating their current location on December 14th and looking for a new spot in Downtown. This follows the opening of an outpost of The Gorbals in Brooklyn, and is ostensibly driven by the Chef's desire to have a brighter, more intimate space such as he has in Williamsburg. Another surprise: the new eatery's menu is supposedly going to be most vegetarian. As such, we wanted to pay The Gorbals a visit before its shutter, to give the kitchen's current selection of cozy dishes one last go around.


Once you get past Bar Mitzvah (which was completely dead), the inside of The Gorbals remains much as it has been over the past several years. Fashioned from the Alexandria's former laundry room, the space is warmer than it has been in the past though, and also served as the stage for Esquire Network's Knife Fight, which is of course hosted by Hall.


These days, the menu is largely in the hands of CdC Peter Haller, who came to The Gorbals from Waterloo & City (also closing at the end of the year). It's more structured than it was during the early days, though it keeps the same charm that it's always had. Drink-wise, there are half a dozen beers on tap, a handful of wines, and now, a formalized cocktail list. Corkage was $20 a bottle, though it was waived when we kindly asked. Click for larger versions.


It's Bourbon, Honey [$12.00] | Heaven Hill Bourbon, Orange Blossom Honey, Angostura, Ginger, Lemon Fizz
Since The Gorbals only had six cocktail on offer, we decided to just get them all. The first was my least favorite. I found it on the watery side, and quite muddled when it came to flavors, giving up just a weak bittersweetness with no ginger.


East Elle Lay! [$12.00] | Beefeaters, Cucumber, Thyme, Mint, Basil, Lime, Raw Sugar, Cayenne Pepper
This one, at least, had some actual taste, with an herbal, botanical bent up front, a palpable sugariness in the middle, and a finish of cayenne spice that gave us quite a kick.


Sassyrac [$12.00] | James E. Pepper Rye, Hine VSOP, Turbinado, Peychaud Bitters, Pernod, Flamed Lemon Twist
Here was a play on the Sazerac, a viscous concoction with a boozy base overarched by sweet, astringent, and anise-y notes and just a whisper of lemon.


Broccoli, soy, brown sugar, malt, chilies [$8.00]
The meal got off to a great start thanks to the broccoli, some of the best I've had. Think super savory, super deep flavors, char, tartness, and spice, all set against the crisp, bitter stalks of the veggie.


Bacon wrapped Matzoh balls, horseradish, dill aioli [$9.00]
Bacon-swaddled matzah has been a staple and a signature at The Gorbals from pretty much the start. I really appreciated the saltiness of the bacon and the creamy tang of the aioli, and it worked with the balls, but I wanted more of it to counteract the inherent blandness of matzo.


Hamachi, napa cabbage, nam chim, avocados, shrimp chips, cilantro [16.00]
One of the night's standouts was undoubtedly the hamachi. I loved how the Asian-y slant of the dish worked alongside the yellowtail, a mish-mash of herbaceous, sweet, tangy, spicy, and funky that paired beautifully with the fatty fish.


Argyle Gargoyle [$12.00] | Bulleit Rye, Lemon, Maraschino, Green Chartreuse, Pernod
This next cocktail was probably the best of the sextet. The key was the herbal, vegetal nature of Chartreuse, which melded swimmingly with the various sweet, sour, and boozy elements here to make for a well-balanced, somewhat cerebral drink.


Frankenstein [$12.00] | Jalapeño Infused Tequila Blanco, Grapefruit, Agave, Mezcal, Flamed Grapefruit Twist
The first of two cocktails featuring mezcal, this one worked out pretty well, a mélange of spicy, sweet, and sour nuances augmented by the smokiness of mezcal.


The New Old Fashioned [$12.00] | Chinaco Anejo Tequila, Vida Organic Mezcal, Ginger Simple Syrup, Punt e Mes, Orange and Angostura Bitters
Last up was a thoroughly reworked version of an Old Fashioned, one that demonstrated the powerful, yet somehow restrained flavors of the tequila-mezcal combo alongside a multifaceted bittersweetness.


Mussels, green curry, green chorizo, cilantro, grilled country bread [$14.00]
Mussels were well-cooked and nicely-textured, but were overwhelmed a bit by the sweetness of the accompanying curry, the brine I was seeking masked. Great hit of cilantro here, though.


Hand rolled papardelle with lamb bolognese [$18.00]
The pasta course satisfied in a straightforward manner, the classically-leaning savory, sweet, tangy ragù working seamlessly with the papardelle.


Brussels, bacon, Nam Prik Pao, mint, cilantro, basil [$10.00]
The kitchen really delivered with the Brussels, one of the tastiest preps I've had in recent times. I loved the bitterness and firmness intrinsic to the veggie, so I appreciated how those facets were conveyed here, joined by an immensely savory, South East Asian-esque earthiness that permeated everything. Yum.


Given the brevity of The Gorbals' cocktail list (and the beverage selection in general), we brought along a couple beers. First was the 2014 The Bruery Sucre, the brewery's latest bourbon barrel-aged anniversary old ale. It was as delicious as you'd expect: a flavor bomb just teeming with juicy notes of dark fruit, oak, brown sugar, chocolate, and bourbon, underscored by a touch of alcoholic heat. Next was a bottle of the 2014 Smog City Goldie, the brewery's first barrel-aged release. A strong Belgian-style golden ale aged for five months in bourbon casks, this one was smooth and viscous, with rich flavors from the wood to pair with the beer's fruity, estery sweetness and spice.


Bánh mi poutine, thrice-cooked fries, hoisin gravy [$16.00]
The Gorbals' Vietnamese-inspired take on the Canadian classic is another one of the restaurant's most well-known dishes, one that was ostensibly a result of a staff meal gone awry when the staff replaced bánh mì baguettes with potatoes. I'm not sure if this really tasted all that much like its namesake sandwich, but nevertheless, it tasted damn good, with the savory shards of pulled pork pairing gorgeously with the crispy frites and hefty cheese-gravy while the pickles added a touch of levity to the mix.


Latka, applesauce, sour cream [$9.00]
Latkes were tasty, nicely crisp on the outside and really conveying the simple savoriness that is potato. Traditional pairings of apple sauce and sour cream, meanwhile, were put to good use as well.


Dry aged burger, onion 7 ways, sesame brioche bun [$16.00]
The burger featured dry-aged beef, and indeed, showed off the earthines and depth that you'd typically associate with such a thing. Sadly, the patty came out a bit on the dry side, but the ménage à sept of onion did help save the day, offering up an array of sweet, tangy, astringent flavors to round out the dish. Officially, the seven types of onions are grilled onions, caramelized onions, crispy shallots, onion brioche bun, red wine red onion marmalade, scallion aioli, and pickled red onions. However, I'm pretty sure we didn't that all that tonight, and one of the cooks named off raw, pickled, caramelized, fried, aioli, and ketchup. Nonetheless, it was pretty neat how they mimicked the classic burger accoutrements using only onion.


To go with the sweet stuff, I opened the 2013 Perennial Abraxas, which I'd been curious about for a while now. The beer was brewed with ancho chiles, cacao nibs, vanilla beans, and cinnamon, making for an ultra smooth, delicious tipple, with tasty notes of spice, sweetness, and tingling heat presented over a base of chocolate-y goodness. Lastly, we had the 2014 Golden Road Back Home Gingerbread Stout. It really did recall its namesake treat, giving up plenty of ginger-y sweetness and Christmas spices to pair with the beer's stout-y base.


Sticky toffee pudding, salted caramel sauce, ice cream [$7.00]
The Gorbals' lone dessert remained much the same as on my first visit here, a classic rendition of sticky toffee pudding that I found not particularly exciting, but still satisfying, especially with the hit of salt in the dish.

I'm a bit disheartened to see The Gorbals close up shop, and I'm glad I made it back for one last go around. The cooking here has always had a comfort food type leaning, but with a carefree, worldly attitude to it, so it'll be interesting to see how much of that translates to the vegetarian-focused menu at Hall's new place. We shall see.

Black Hogg (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

December 18, 2014, 6:45 pm

≫ Next: Barrel & Ashes (Studio City, CA)

≪ Previous: The Gorbals (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

$

0

0

Roots at Black Hogg
2852 W Sunset Blvd, Silver Lake, CA 90026
323.953.2820
www.blackhogg.com
Sat 11/22/2014, 06:45p-10:05p





Since debuting in 2012, Eric Park's Black Hogg has firmly established itself as one of the darlings of the Silverlake dining scene. However, the Chef apparently wasn't content with just that, and at the end of July, shut down the restaurant for a couple of weeks to retool. The result was Roots at Black Hogg, a slightly rejiggered concept that featured a menu inspired by Park's culinary upbringing, with a particular emphasis on his Korean roots.


Roots' menu reads like a grittier, more multicultural version of the original, with some of the old standbys joined by a number of new dishes. For a more thorough exploration of the Chef's thought process, you can even request a picture book menu to peruse as well. Click for larger versions.



Said menu offers a closer look at the roots behind Roots. Click for larger versions.


ROOTS CRUDITÉ [$5.00] | Heirloom Carrots, Celery, Japanese Cucumber, Korean Pepper. Served With Fermented Spicy Bean Curd (this simple dish is one of Chef's favorites! enjoy the bold, complex flavors)
Things got off to a refreshing start with the Chef's Korean-inflected take on crudités, which played the crisp, vibrant veggies against the earthy heat of ssamjang. Satisfying in its simplicity.


Beer's always a good pairing to Park's food, so we brought along several bottles to enjoy with the eats. First up was the limited-edition 2014 Upright Barrel Aged Flora Rustica, a saison brewed with yarrow, calendula, and hops, then aged for a year in Lactobacillus-infected casks. There was definitely more going on here than in your typical farmhouse ale. The bouquet veered funky and citric, with a distinct mustiness to it. This continued on to the palate, where it was joined by dry, bitter, herbaceous notes, the whole thing finishing long with a lingering taste of botanicals.

One of my dining companions recently scored a large cache of Bell's beers from Michigan, so we brought along a sextet to sample. We got started with one of their most well known brews, the 2014 Bell's Two Hearted Ale, an outstanding example of the IPA style: wonderfully floral and complex on the nose, while taste-wise, you got a great balance of hop bitterness and sweet malt backbone. Smooth and delicious.


BRUSSELS SPROUTS [$9.00]
I can't say no to Brussels, so we just had to try the lone special of the night: a delectable combo of bitterness and char, set off by an underlying layer of sweet 'n' sour tang while the potato added a delightful heft and potency to the dish. Can't deny the appeal of that runny egg, either. Yum.


BONE MARROW STREET CORN [$17.00] | Grilled Sweet Corn, Roast Marrow Bone, Cotija Cheese, Chile Piquin
Here, Park paid homage to the eloteros of his childhood and their delicious street corn. Slick, slippery marrow was super rich, almost conveying a foie gras-esque lushness to it, and once mixed in with everything, made for a tasty treat indeed. The sweetness and texture of the corn served as a great counterpoint, and the heat from the pequin provided a flawless finishing touch. I'd never had marrow like this before.


The 2014 Bell's Venus was part of the brewery's Planet Series honoring the music of composer Gustav Holst, the second release from the line-up. A blonde brewed with honey, apricot juice, vanilla bean, and cardamom, it was quite unlike anything else I'd had before. Think loads of honey on the nose, and a palate that was teeming with sweet, floral vanilla nuances--very neat.

The oft-hyped 2014 Alpine Exponential Hoppiness, on the other hand, was pretty much the polar opposite of the Venus. An exponentially-hopped triple IPA, this one was super pine-y in terms of aroma (perhaps too much so for me), though in terms of taste, the hoppiness of beer was superbly balanced by a combo of malt and tropical grapefruit flavors. Quite smooth and easy-drinking despite its strength.


BÁNH MÌ LIVER TOAST [$10.00] | Vietnamese Five Spice Chicken Liver, Pickled Carrots, Thai Chili, Crispy Ham
Here, the Chef paid tribute to the hero of the traditional bánh mì, the pâté. And indeed, the liver was the star of the show, displaying all the deep, earthy flavors that you'd want, offset by the crunchy carrots while Thai chile imparted a sharp underpinning of heat to the dish. I would've liked to have seen more pickles though.


53RD AND 6TH LAMB AND RICE [$18.00] | Roast Lamb Belly, Basmati Rice, Harissa Slaw, Garlic Cream
In our next course, Park gives a nod to NYC's famed Halal Guys, a staple food for the Chef from his time spent in New York. I'd actually had a version of the dish on my last visit here, and though I found that iteration rather tasty, this one was even better, coming out more completely formed than before. The lamb itself was a force to be reckoned with, a super fatty, super charred, super "lamby" prep that was beautifully balanced by the zesty slaw. I loved the base of firm basmati rice here as well, and the undercurrent of spice permeating the course was much appreciated, too.


Continuing on with the Bell's barrage, here we had the 2014 Bell's Expedition Stout, one of their most well-known offerings. It was an intriguing take on a stout. It had your malty, roasty flavors that you'd expect, but there was this savory-slash-bittersweetness that I couldn't quite put my finger on as well.

Our lone sour of the evening was the 2014 Rodenbach Caractère Rouge, a Flanders Red aged in oak for two years, then macerated with cranberries, raspberries, and sour cherries for six months and re-fermented in the bottle. It was a tasty one, with your classically tart, dry, oaky, vinous Rodenbach character balanced by a tinge of sugariness from the three types of fruit.


EGG-IN-A-HOLE MUSHROOM TOAST [$16.00] | Toasted Brioche Toast, Poached Egg, Hen Of The Wood and Shimeji Mushrooms
Park's take on eggs in the basket was almost like an improved version of his earlier "Wild Mushrooms on a Brioche Box". I appreciated how the mushrooms shined here, giving up their rich, savory, almost stroganoff-esque flavor against a backdrop of brioche while the runny egg helped tie it all together.


BOSSAM BURNT ENDS [$19.00] | Roasted Pork Belly Ends, House-made Kimchi
Black Hogg's bossam might be the only version of the anju staple that has a legitimate shot of being better than Kobawoo's. The belly was as tender as I'd ever had it, a real celebration of porky goodness that displayed a winning combination of lean, fat, and char. The meat was certainly delicious alone, but taken with the homemade kimchi and herbs up top, everything just came together perfectly. My favorite dish of the night.


The 2014 Bell's Third Coast Old Ale was an American barleywine that I found surprisingly effervescent. It was probably my least favorite of the Bell's beers though, as its maltiness tended toward one-note. I think this one needed more age.

The 2014 Trillium Farmhouse Ale from Boston, meanwhile, was a bit more interesting, a dry, grainy, grassy, spicy brew with a lingering floral character.


FRIED CHICKEN CONFIT (Serves 2) [$32.00] | Confitted Mary's Chicken Quarter, House Radish Pickles, Chili Honey, OB Beer (pour for your mate!!)
Another standout was the tong dak, Park's interpretation of the bar classic served at the likes of OB Bear and its ilk. The dish comprised two thighs-n-legs, slow cooked in chicken fat and fried. It was the most flavorful chicken I'd had in a long while, the tender, succulent bird really conveying a great mélange of salt and pepper flavors, all underscored by a slight heat. I appreciated the crunchy, tangy cubes of mu on the side as well, and the accompanying chili honey worked surprisingly well to boot.


CRISPY SALT & PEPPER FISH [$28.00] | Whole Mediterranean Sea Bream, Salt and Szechuan Pepper, Red Vinegar Sauce
The kitchen then sent out an impressive presentation of deep-fried sea bream with chimichurri fish sauce, a dish ostensibly inspired by the Chef's grandmother. The fish was another highlight, arriving wonderfully crisp, juicy, and flavorful, with a superb S&P flair to go along with the potency of the chimichurri. The best "whole fried fish" dish I've had in recent times.


Our next round of beers brought the 2014 Deschutes Zarabanda, a Spanish-inflected saison produced in collaboration with culinary icon José Andrés. Brewed with lemon verbena, pink peppercorn, sumac, and dried lime, the beer was a refreshing tipple, with apple and stonefruit notes backed by a noticeable spice and bitterness--I could see this as being quite food-friendly.

And for something completely different, the 2014 Bell's Special Double Cream Stout was as smooth and creamy as its name would lead you to believe. It was also appropriately malty, with a bit of roastiness and a pleasant commingling of soft chocolate and coffee-like flavors.


CAULIFLOWER CHANA MASALA [$16.00] | Roast Cauliflower Wedge, Chickpeas and Fingerling Potatoes Covered in a Spicy Tomato Sauce, Dusted with Sumac
Our penultimate savory was Park's rendition of the Punjabi-Indian staple chana masala. It stayed true to the essence of the original, with the spicy, tangy flavors in the dish proudly displayed, set against the comparatively mild cauliflower. I quite liked the incorporation of potato here as well, which added a palpable bit of heft to things.



MARROW BURGER (LIMITED QUANTITIES) [$18.00] | Secret House Burger Blend, Onion Two Ways, Roast Marrow, Twice Cooked Fries
Last up was Black Hogg's signature burger. It was super flavorful, with the marrow adding a rather profound earthiness to the mix. The contrast of the caramelized and pickled onions was much enjoyed as well, and the arugula finished nicely with its zestiness. The fries? Spot on.


Our last set of beers definitely went more toward the dessert-y side. The 2014 Bell's Java Stout was one of the more coffee-forward beers I've had, with a nose that was not unlike smelling fresh beans. That sensation held true for the taste as well, which was roasty and smoky and teeming with coffee notes over a base of classic chocolate-y stout.

We ended, fittingly, with the biggest beer of the night and one of the most robust I've tasted, period. The 2014 The Bruery Black Tuesday had just been released weeks prior, and though I'd had the beer before, I'd never had it before this fresh. An imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels, it was quite unlike most other stouts I've sampled. The bouquet was super intense, massively redolent of dark fruit, while on the tongue, you got much more of the same, intermingled with notes of molasses, chocolate, oak, and bourbon, the beer finishing with a tinge of heat from its 19.7% ABV and a lingering sensation of chocolate-dipped raisins. It was almost liqueur-like in intensity, and reminiscent of one of The Bruery's barrel-aged, solera-method old ales at times.


MILK & HONEY [$8.00] | Pure Milk Panna Cotta, Lavender Honey, Aged Balsamic, Raspberries, Honeycomb Crumble
Panna cotta came out lactic and tangy in our first dessert, with a nice hit of acid from the balsamic and berries while the honeycomb added a smoky touch to the dish.


FIVE LECHES BREAD PUDDING [$8.00] | Brioche, Brown Butter Apples, Toasted Pecans, Salty Vanilla Ice Cream
The bread pudding was more intriguing, a satisfying mish-mash of dark fruit, caramel, and cinnamon-y flavors set off by a delightful scoop of ice cream.

Roots started out as a summer pop-up sort of thing, but word is that it might run indefinitely. I can see why, as the food is better than ever, combining the flavor-forward cooking that Park's been known for with some more "ethnic" stylings. It's a winning combination that all of us tonight enjoyed. In fact, I'd love to see the Chef explore more of his Korean background, to put out his own versions of staples such as jeon, dubu kimchi, or best yet, soondae.

---

Barrel & Ashes (Studio City, CA)

December 22, 2014, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Tacoteca (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: Black Hogg (Los Angeles, CA) [3]

$

0

0

Barrel and Ashes
11801 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, CA 91604
818.623.8883
www.barrelandashes.com
Sat 11/29/2014, 07:00p-10:25p





The BBQ scene in Los Angeles has certainly been heating up as of late, and adding fuel to that fire is Barrel & Ashes, which debuted on November 7th after a secretive preview the week earlier (and a pop-up at Short Order). The Texas-influenced joint is another Bill Chait production, and this time he's partnered up with Timothy Hollingsworth (The French Laundry), Rory Herrmann (Bouchon), and Jeff Sladicka, one of the co-owners of the Spark Woodfire Grill location where B&A's housed (he and Chait opened up the place with Danilo Terribili in 1999). Meanwhile, running things at a day-to-day level is Chef de Cuisine Michael Kahikina, a CIA grad and former sous at Bouchon.


The old Spark space has been revamped to convey a more rustic, more casual sort of aesthetic. There's lots of communal seating of course, and also a small bar and kitchen counter, not to mention picnic tables out front and supposedly something going on in the back, too. I'm curious to find out what they did with the upstairs, which functioned as a private dining room back in the day.


The Barrel & Ashes menu features the standard selection of meats and sides, but gets a little schmancier with its apps and desserts. Drinks, meanwhile, are the charge of Julian Cox. He's done a nice job here with his fun, barbeque-friendly cocktails, which are joined by craft beers, a couple of wines, and a pretty wide array of whiskey. Corkage is $20, but was waived this evening after we politely asked. Click for larger versions.


Free Bird [$12.00] | Rye Whiskey, Pomegranate, Dry Vermouth, Seltzer
Naturally, given who's behind the program here, we gave the cocktails a whirl. Our first did a commendable job integrating the pomegranate with the bittersweet, almost medicinal notes in the drink, and the contrast between the booziness of the rye and the effervescent seltzer worked well enough.


Bee's Nuts [$13.00] | Elijah Craig Bourbon, Walnut, Lemon, Acacia Honey, Cismontane Imperial Stout
For me, this was the most intriguing concoction of the night: citrusy and bright initially, with the weight of the bourbon coming in later, then finally finishing long with the roasty qualities of the stout. A very neat evolution of flavors.


Oaxacan in Memphis [$13.00] | Tequila Blanco, Campari, Pamplemousse, Lime, Saison Dupont
The last cocktail of this round was also a favorite of mine. I loved the bright, fragrant aroma of pomelo here, and the juiciness of the fruit melded beautifully with the smoky spice of its accompanying elements, too. Nice!


Spicy Pork Rinds [$4.00] | Malt Vinegar Mayonnaise
We had to start with the pork rinds, and they were indeed some of the best I've had, all porky and crispy and airy, tasty alone, but even better with a dab of the tangy mayo.


The Best Damn Chick'n Sandwich Ya Ever Had [$9.00] | Coleslaw, Jalapeno, Pimento Cheese, Milk Roll
As far as chicken sandwiches go, I've not found anything so far that can unseat Son of a Gun's. That being said, the one here still made a strong showing for itself. The key was the interplay between the slaw and the lushness and heat of the pimento cheese. Even the bread was well-textured and very appropriate, making everything come together deliciously. You might want to order this.


Frito Pie [$9.00] | Chili, Cheddar, Sour Cream, Green Onion
We couldn't resist the down south snack of Frito Pie, natch. I'd had a gussied up version at Bar Ama before, but this was actually my first time trying a more traditional preparation. It was just what I wanted though, a mish-mash of straightforwardly satisfying flavors over a base of crunchy corn chips. Just the right amount of slutty.


Brisket - Greater Omaha C.A.B. [$19.00] | ½ Lb
Given that B&A's supposedly a Texas-influenced joint, we had to start with the brisket. It was some of the juiciest I've had, all tender and flaky and with a nice ratio of lean to fat. Very tasty, though I wanted a touch more smokiness if I had to nitpick. If you only get one meat, make it this.


Spare Ribs - Salmon Creek Farms [$18.00] | Half Rack
Spare ribs were also laudable, coming out sticky-sweet and just tender enough, with a gratifying meatiness to it all.


Shells & Cheese [$7.00]
Barrel & Ashes' rendition of mac & cheese was one of the best I've tasted. Great texture on the pasta, and I loved the sheer creaminess and cheesiness of it all.


Miner's Potatoes [$5.00]
The potatoes were also a keen pairing, arriving crisp and hearty, accented by the aromatics of sage while the accompanying sauce served as a creamy counterbalance. Can't go wrong with this.


Banana Hammock [$13.00] | Banana Infused Jamaican Rum, Lemon, House Banana Cordial, Honey, Caramelized Banana
Round #2 for cocktails brought out this whimsically-titled number, a real celebration of banana-y sweetness, offset by the potency of the rum and just the right amount of lemon-y zest on the close.


Sloe Gin Fizz [$13.00] | Sipsmith Sloe Gin, London Dry Gin, Lemon, Peychauds, Egg White, Seltzer
B&A's take on this classic fizz was to my liking, with its great mix of sweet and tart flavors played against the frothy egg white, the dry gin adding a wonderful hit of botanicals toward the back end.


Horse's Neck [$12.00] | Bourbon, Housemade Ginger-Ale, Angostura, Lemon
Our last cocktail was also a take on something old school, and just happens to be the restaurant's most popular drink. It was almost bracing in essence, with a sharp, in-your-face blast of contrasting ginger and lemon notes over a backdrop of bourbon.


Pulled Pork - Salmon Creek Farms [$15.00] | ½ Lb
The pulled pork was about as tender as you can get, with a mix of porcine and tangy flavors intermingled with a hint of smoke. Particularly good with the accompanying pickles, though I wanted more of those crispier bits thrown in here for some textural variation.


Sausage - Electric City Butchers [$9.00 + $9.00] | O.G. + Jalapeno Cheddar
Sausages are sourced from Santa Ana's Electric City Butchers, and were on point. The O.G. had your classics flavors in a delightfully snappy casing, while the Jalapeno Cheddar was even better, their version of Käsekrainer featuring lush, creamy cheese and a great bit of creeping heat. Yum.


Pork n' Beans [$7.00]
Pork 'n' beans looked impressive, and indeed the actual pork was. However, the beans veered overly soft, overly sweet for me. I would've liked them firmer, with more of a peppery/spicy bent.


Hoe Cake [$6.00]
Now, the hoecake has sort of become an early favorite when it comes to sides here, and that's for good reason. It's sort of like the best pancake you've ever had, a sweet, fluffy, beautifully caramelized disk with a savory edge. A must try.


BBQ Brussels Sprouts [$5.00]
Regular readers will know that I'm a huge fan of Brussels, but these similarly went too sweet; I wanted the bitterness of the veggie to shine more.


For dessert, I brought out two bottles of 2014 Goose Island Bourbon County Brand Stout that were just purchased the previous day (during the Black Friday release), one from the 13.8% ABV batch and one from the 14.4% ABV batch (from different blends of bourbon barrels I take it). We began with the lower strength bottling, and found it all sorts of wonderful, with a nose redolent of delicious dark fruit, toffee, molasses, vanilla, and subtle smoke. In terms of taste, there was more of that, plus a distinct chocolate character and a good amount of malt and bourbon, with surprisingly little alcoholic heat. The 14.4% version, when drank side-by-side, wasn't quite as good (though it was still very good). I got a noticeably weaker nose, with a bit more oakiness, while on the palate, I tasted less chocolate and more roasty malt.


Peanut Butter & Banana Ice Cream
Time for dessert. As you probably know, I'm not a fan of peanut butter, so I wasn't particularly looking forward to this ice cream. Given that, this wasn't too bad, as the actual peanut butter was fairly restrained, offset by the sweetness of banana.


Banana Pudding [$7.00] | Toasted Meringue and 'Nilla Wafers
Banana was also used very successfully here, the creamy, rich, sweet pudding satisfying in a simple sort of way.


Arnold Palmer Sorbet
The Arnold Palmer sorbet stayed true to its namesake, delivering an invigorating mix of sweet-n-sour.


Turtle Ice Cream Cake [$9.00] | Pecans, Salted Caramel, Chocolate
My favorite dessert was clearly the turtle candy-inspired ice cream cake. The balance of nutty, caramel, and salty flavors was spot on, and worked perfectly with the ice cream. Fantastic crunch here too from the pecans and "crust" of the cake. Damn.


My last bottle was the much-hyped 2014 Cigar City Hunahpu's Imperial Stout, which I'd been wanting to try for a while now. A stout brewed with cacao nibs, ancho and pasilla chiles, cinnamon, and Madagascar vanilla beans, the beer's made once a year and released only at the brewery in Tampa (though not anymore, apparently). It was one of the most multifaceted beers I've had, and managed to live up to high expectations. I found it spicy-sweet, fruity, and chocolate-y, yet somehow restrained on the nose--complex, and obviously special. The liquid made even more of an impact on the palate with gobs of dark fruit at first leading to spicy, sweet, floral vanilla, and bitter cacao nuances and a finish tinged with a tingling amount of chile heat. Lots going on, but very well put together; I could totally see a dessert based on these flavor profiles. As you can see above, we made sure to share some with the kitchen, too.


Pumpkin Bread Pudding [$10.00] | Vanilla Bourbon Ice Cream, Pumpkin Seeds
Around this time, we ran into Ivan Marquez of Short Cake, whom we met at the last Plate by Plate tasting. He was working part-time at B&A and sent out a bread pudding, perfect for the season. Great autumnal flavors here to go along with that fantastically boozy ice cream (I could use a pint of the stuff by itself).


Cookies 'n Cream Ice Cream
Along with the bread pudding came three of the most perfectly spherical scoops of ice cream ever. Delectable, and the most cookie-forward cookies 'n cream I've had.


In addition to the beers, I also had in my cooler a fully-cooked, sous vide'd Miyazaki striploin left over from Thanksgiving. We handed it over to Marquez, who in turn gave it to Hollingsworth to finish on the wood-fired grill. The results were pretty marvelous, actually, despite the meat not being "fresh." There was some great char and smoke imbued into the beef, and the way the marbling was presented just worked. The steak stood alone, but the grilled scallion, balsamic dressing, and pico de gallo-esque salsa especially made it even better. We were all impressed at how well the kitchen pulled this off on the fly.


Banana Split
Last up was Marquez's off-menu banana split, just about the most refined version of the childhood favorite that you'll ever find.

We have another worthwhile addition to LA's barbecue lexicon here with B&A. Its cheffier approach is a welcomed change of pace from the homier presentations of the style you usually find, and I especially appreciate what was done with the apps, desserts, and drinks here. Taken all together, you have what I'll call a complete dining experience, which is often not the case when it comes to 'cue. BBQ fiends should definitely check this place out.

Tacoteca (Santa Monica, CA)

December 26, 2014, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: Twenty Eight (Irvine, CA)

≪ Previous: Barrel & Ashes (Studio City, CA)

$

0

0

Tacoteca Restaurant
2460 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90403
310.828.2115
www.tacoteca.com
Thu 12/18/2014, 07:45p-10:40p





Over the past couple years, one of the preeminent forces in Los Angeles' Mexican scene has been Ricardo Diaz. Through his involvement in places such as Guisados, Bizarra Capital, and Colonia Taco Lounge, he's done a lot to propel the cuisine forward. As such, I had to make sure to visit the Chef's latest restaurant: Tacoteca, a venture with Adam Fleischman and Lee Weinberg's AdVantage Restaurant Partners (Smoke.Oil.Salt) that brings Diaz's cooking to the West Side for the first time.


The restaurant resides in the building that was once home to Jet Tila's Charleston. The space has been revamped, but the vibe isn't all that different than before. Lighting in certain spots, unfortunately, was need-your-phone-to-read-the-menu bad, so you may want to watch out for that.


Tacoteca's menu, unsurprisingly, starts with tacos, examples reminiscent of the ones you might find at Colonia, and finishes with a number of other sundry, non-taco items. Drink-wise, you get mezcal-heavy cocktails from barman Gilbert Marquez and a pretty legit list of craft beers, ostensibly compiled by Brad Japhe. Click for larger versions.


La Bruxa [$13.00] | Jalapeño Infused Mezcal, Banana, Lime, Cilantro, Activated Charcoal
Spanish Style Mezcal [$13.00] | Mezcal, Tonic, Grapefruit, Rosemary
We opted for cocktails this evening, and got things going with La Bruxa, a tasty concoction that gave up a tropical, pineapple-y sweetness up front, smoke on the midpalate, and a finish redolent of spice, the whole drink overarched by traces of cilantro. The Spanish Style Mezcal, meanwhile, was akin to a mezcal-laced gin-tonic, with its classically bright, juicy, aromatic flavors playing well with the headiness of the spirit.


Smokey Guacamole [$7.00] | Fresh Avocado, Roasted Tomatillo, Morita-Mezcal Salsa Boracha
Guacamole's always a fitting way to start, and the version here had your classic, creamy goodness, but joined by a very palpable smoky element. Excellent crispness on those tostadas, too.


Dry Aged Chorizo [$6.00] | Avocado Salsa, Seared Farmer's Cheese
The first taco was certainly to my liking, with the spice of the chorizo balanced by the comparatively mild cheese while the tangy lushness of the salsa helped tie everything together. An enjoyable temperature contrast here as well.


Grilled Octopus [$6.00] | Serrano Chile-Peanut Sauce, Micro Cilantro
Octopus arrived super tender, with a lovely bit of char savor that paired surprisingly well with the sweetness of the peanut condiment.


Oaxacking [$13.00] | Mezcal, Toasted Coconut Milk, Pulque, Orange Juice, Lime
Maria Savila [$13.00] | Mezcal, Chareau Aloe Vera Liquor, Lemon Twist, Aloe Vera Garnish
The Oaxacking made a nice showing for itself, light in essence despite the presence of mezcal, with an interesting element from the incorporation of pulque and a finish of sweet coconut. The Maria Savila, on the other hand, veered much boozier, with an accent of citrus and a spicy, herbal quality to it. I didn't get too much aloe, though.


Carne Asada [$6.00] | Mexican Chimichurri, Roasted Red Peppers
The ubiquitous carne asada arrived in meaty, satisfying, well-textured chunks, imbued with a great bit of heat and keenly paired with the tangy chimichurri.


Buñuelos [$7.00] | Absinthe Syrup
We had a birthday in the group, so a plate of complimentary buñuelos arrived, though at an awkward time in the meal (shouldn't dessert be at the end?). They had a good spice to 'em, and the zing of the absinthe-laced condiment was neat, but really should've been served warmer.


Lamb Barbacoa [$6.00] | Mint Garlic Salsa, Fresh Onion
Another winner was the lamb taco, a juicy, super flavorful presentation beautifully set off by the classic pairing of mint.


El Venadito [$13.00] | Mezcal, Cucumber, Ginger, Lime, Tajin
Paloma [$12.00] | Blanco Tequila, Lime, Grapefruit, IPA
Our third round of cocktails brought us El Venadito, which had a base of mezcal tempered by the use of cucumber and ginger while the Tajín rim gave up a salty, spicy counterpoint. Meanwhile, the Paloma was my favorite drink of the night. I found it super well balanced, with a perfect blend of citrusy and tequila flavors finished by the bitterness of the ale.


Queso Fresco [$5.00] | Avocado, Raw Serrano Salsa, Fried Red Potatoes
The queso taco was another standout for me, thanks to its delicious interplay between the delightfully charred cheese and the salty, savory potato, with the salsa adding a perfect accent piece to the dish.


Chalupa de Champiñones [$7.00] | Sautéed Mushrooms, Goat Cheese, Roasted Jalapeños, Fried Parsley, Green Salsa
I wasn't so enamored with the chalupa though, finding it the weakest course of the night. The flavors of the mushrooms felt a bit muddled, and the cheese tended to overpower things to boot. Some more acidity and/or spice would've been appreciated here.


Chicharron Quesadilla [$6.00] | Crispy Pork Belly, Queso Oaxaca, Avocado Salsa, Corn Tortilla
At the same time, the quesadilla managed to be a table favorite, a blast of porky goodness and delightfully crunchy textures, all brightened up by the accompanying salsa. Yum.


Coctel de la Semana [$14.00] | Mezcal, Bubble Gum Infused Tequila, Lime, Simple
Aguacatero [$13.00] | Mezcal, Avocado, Green Chartreuse, Lime
The Coctel de la Semana ("cocktail of the week") managed to incorporate Canel's bubble gum, which I'd never seen done before. The sweet chiclet flavor actually melded surprisingly well with the tequila, providing a touch of levity to the spirit while the lime gave things a needed acidity. I also enjoyed the Aguacatero, which was fairly restrained with the avocado, but otherwise drank very well, with a commendable balance between the Chartreuse and mezcal.


Grilled Chicken Breast [$6.00] | Pico de Gallo, Salsa Verde
The grilled chicken was probably the least interesting of the tacos, but still tasty, with sort of a classic interplay going on between the bird and the tangy salsas.


East Cape Tuna [$9.00] | Yellowtail, Light Soy, Mexican Lime, Onions, Wasabi, Chiltepin Oil
Tuna was well-textured and given an Asian-y slant here. The soy, though, was a tad overwhelming, masking some of the inherent goodness of the fish, though I did appreciate the levity provided by the herbs up top.


Street Corn [$6.00] | Steamed Corn, Aged Cotija Cheese, Lime Mayo, Cayenne, Tamarind Glaze
Diaz's nod to elote certainly satisfied, with the sweet, toothsome kernels of corn working hand-in-hand with the traditional accoutrements present.


Mezcal de Pepino y Romero [$12.00] | Mezcal, Cucumber, Rosemary - Tonifies, Memory
Our final tipple was a shot of cucumber- and rosemary-inoculated mezcal, to be drunk in the traditional style: dip the orange in the sal de gusano ("worm salt"), sip, and then finish by popping some salty-sour-smoky chapulines (grasshoppers).


Shrimp Tostada [$11.00] | Mexican White Shrimp, Avocado, Cucumber, Veracruz Curry, Pumpkin Seeds
Rounding out our meal were a couple of tostadas. The first featured some nicely cooked, but mild-tasting shrimp. I would've liked some more acidity, some more heat to kick things up a notch, though I did really appreciate the nuttiness and crunch of those pepitas.


Veggie Tostada [$7.00] | Mushroom-Heart of Palm Ceviche, Roasted Red Pepper Aioli, Crispy Onions
The verduras tostada fared better. There were some great textures going on, and a more complex, multifaceted flavor profile--a smart presentation of veggies.

Tacoteca looks to be a welcomed addition to the Mexican landscape here in Santa Monica. The food was quite tasty for the most part, as were the drinks, and it's good to have access to Diaz's culinary stylings west of Downtown now. I would like to have an expanded menu of offerings here (e.g. Colonia has about 15 types of tacos on offer at a given time), including some more adventurous items (huitlacoche anyone?). Hopefully we'll see that once the restaurant has had a bit more time to settle in.

Twenty Eight (Irvine, CA)

December 26, 2014, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Starry Kitchen x Grand Star (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Tacoteca (Santa Monica, CA)

$

0

0

TwentyEight Restaurant
19530 Jamboree Rd, Irvine, CA 92612
949.852.2828
www.twentyeightoc.com
Fri 12/26/2014, 07:00p-10:15p



I don't get to OC too often, but my latest trip down south was to visit Twenty Eight, Top Chef alum Shirley Chung's (she was my favorite to win Season 11) first solo project that soft-opened on December 10th (they've since grand-opened). She's teamed up with restaurateur/caterer Stacie Tran, and though her involvement here started out as a consulting gig, Chung has been brought on as partner. The idea for Twenty Eight (a reference to the age when she started cooking professionally) is to present food reflective of the Chef's Continental training, her travels, her years working in Vegas, and of course, her childhood spent in China.

About the Chef: Born and raised in Beijing, Chung developed an appreciation for food and cooking at a young age thanks to her grandmother, Liang Siyi ("Sylvia"), the Chinese Red Cross' deputy director of International Relations and daughter of influential scholar Liang Qichao. For educational reasons, her family eventually moved to the US when she was 17. Chung attended California State University Hayward, and after graduating with a business administration degree, worked in Silicon Valley for four years. Interestingly, she hosted her own radio show on 96.1 FM (KSQQ) during this period, and also met her future husband, who helped convince her to switch careers. To that effect, she left her job in tech and enrolled at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco. After staging at The French Laundry, she moved to Las Vegas in 2004 to help Thomas Keller open Bouchon at The Venetian.

Chung then moved to Guy Savoy at Caesars and later joined Mario Batali at B&B Ristorante, Otto Enoteca e Pizzeria, and Carnevino, where she was CdC. In 2010, she teamed up with José Andrés and opened China Poblano at The Cosmopolitan, which was soon nominated by James Beard for "Best New Restaurant." At China Poblano, Chung was able to both learn about Mexican cookery as well as rediscover Chinese cuisine, which she'd never cooked professionally before. However, she left the place in early 2013 and found a spot on Top Chef: New Orleans, where she finished a very respectable third. With her newfound fame, she started Chung Lee Consulting and found Tran as her first client. Twenty Eight was supposed to open in June 2014, and the Chef was originally slated to return to Vegas to start her own place following the debut, but as a result of her coming on as partner, she's relocated to Orange County and is putting it all on the line here.


Twenty Eight occupies the site of the old Kimera, and the former restaurant's red- and brown-heavy digs have been replaced by a decidedly more monotone affair.


Twenty Eight's menu is fairly extensive, split amongst starters, mains, and sides, with varying degrees of Chinese influence. To drink, you get some slightly Asian-y cocktails, wines, and tea. Corkage was $20, but was graciously waived this evening. Click for larger versions.


Antidote [$12.00] | Wild Turkey Bourbon, Fresh Lemon, Mint, Ginger, Honey Syrup
Our first cocktail was surprisingly subtle, with a sweet-n-sour combo of honey-ginger-lemon doing a good job evening out the potency of the bourbon here.


Shao Mai [$6.00] | chicken, chinese lap chang sausage, shitake mushroom
Our first bites comprised two preparations of the dim sum staple shumai. This version featured chicken, the bird amped up by the smoky/savory weight of the xianggu and sausage while the wolfberry added a touch of sweetness.


Shao Mai [$6.00] | beef, coriander, garlic chip
The beef dumplings were a bit more full-bodied, taken up a notch by the zestiness of coriander. The wrappers here seemed a touch more substantial as well.


Special Ginger Cocktail [$14.00] | Skyy Vodka, Fresh Pineapple juice, Fresh Ginger, Lime Extract
The evening's cocktail special was loaded with fruity notes of pineapple on the nose, with the ginger coming in later, joined by tangy lime and a slight undercurrent of booziness.


Beijing Street Style Grilled Lamb Skewers [$10.00] | spicy cumin rubbed Colorado lamb belly, charred red onion
Next was the Chef's shao kao inspired skewers. Lamb belly was appropriately fatty, with a heavy char and a trace of cumin-y warmth. It might be interesting to have more types of skewers on offer in the future.


Hamachi Egg Rolls [$11.00] | confit hamachi, farm egg, garlic chive salsa verde
The thinly-rolled chun juan weren't much to look at, but delivered taste-wise, showcasing the richly-flavored yellowtail in a crisp, fun package. Smartly paired with a zippy salsa verde, I could've just kept popping these.


Golden Lotus Negroni [$12.00] | Plymouth Gin, Suze Gentian Liqueur, Maurin Dry Vermouth, Orange Blossom Essence, Candied Hibiscus Bloom
The restaurant's take on the Negroni was my favorite of the three cocktails, a classically-leaning concoction with a great bittersweet character and an unexpectedly pleasant floral component.


Caramel Lace Prawns [$28.00] | gulf white prawns, sweet plum aioli, grapefruit, walnut caramel lace
Chung then sent out a version of the ubiquitous restaurant dish honey walnut prawns. The shrimp themselves were nicely cooked, snappy, meaty, and imbued with a sweetness that melded seamlessly with the plum aioli. The actual walnuts were also on point, but I wasn't quite as enamored with the citrus segments here, and the sugarwork didn't do much for me. I'd like to see this kept more O.G.


Tongue and Cheek [$19.00] | house cured pork head cheese and beef tongue, pickled baby carrot, California red mustard
Next up was seemingly a riff on the Sichuan staple fuqi feipian. Beef tongue was hearty and slightly smoky, while the head cheese veered slicker, more delicate, with a tasty porcine presence. Pickles and mustard provided the requisite acidity to counterbalance the meat. That being said, I would've liked some more traditional accoutrements, some more spice, some oil, some ma la in there.


Fried Calamari [$11.00] | lightly rice flour batter, crispy shallots, house pickled vegetables
Squid was lightly fried and still retained its texture, with its heavily salted flavors set against the crunchy pickles and cilantro. I was a fan of the crispy shallots, too. However, I could've used more pepperiness (including the Sichuan type), more heat here, not to mention some more tentacle action.


I brought along a couple beers, the first being the 2014 Propolis Fructus, an amber saison brewed with bittering aromatic herbs and aged in Syrah wine casks with strawberries, raspberries, and Brettanomyces. I'd actually never had anything from the brewery before (I think they only recently began distributing in SoCal), but this was a very promising introduction. Lots going on here--earthy, funky, herbal, spicy, bitter, tart, and fruity--but it really came together perfectly.


Fire Phoenix [$28.00] | Top Chef signature winning dish, Jasmine tea smoked Jidori chicken
Next was one of my favorites from the meal, a dish ostensibly inspired by one that helped Chung defeat Brooke Williamson on Top Chef Duels earlier this year. The bird itself arrived superbly cooked, a lovely presentation of both white meat and dark that ate juicy and robustly flavored. The crux of the course, though, was the aromatic, smoky element, which really elevated the protein.


Bulb Noodles [$12.00] | hand cut noodle, scallion, garlic, yellow chives
I was impressed with the hand-cut noodles as well. I found them well-textured, and perfectly set against the astringency of the scallion-garlic-chive combo. Even better with a squirt of lime. You could just take down a big plate of this and be satisfied.


Twenty Eight Roast Whole Duck (Half) [$38.00] | lotus leaf crepes, sliced radish cucumber and scallions, Twenty Eight duck sauce
The restaurant's take on the classic Peking duck was an impressive spread. Taken alone, the meat was certainly very "ducky," and combined with the veggies, bittersweet sauce, and particularly good crepes (some of the best I've had), made for some tasty bites indeed. I did miss the crispy skin, though.


Stir Fried Chinese Broccoli [$11.00] | minced shitake, poach egg
A side of Chinese broccoli was spot on, a strong presentation of the bitter, crunchy vegetable that was dutifully heightened by the incorporation of heady shiitakes and luscious runny egg. The Chef has described her veggie preps as "sexy," and this certainly was.


Time for dessert, which at Twenty Eight is the work of Chung herself, as there's no separate Pastry Chef currently. Click for a larger version.


Good Fortune [$12.00] | dark chocolate mousse, coconut gelee, chocolate wafer, curry croquant, edible fortune
In lieu of standard fortune cookies, we had this instead, a worthy replacement in my estimation. There was an enjoyable interplay between the chocolate and coconut elements, but the key for me was the croquant, which added a wonderful crunch that really lifted the dessert.


Tofu Panna Cotta [$10.00] | house press soymilk, red bean ice cream, ginger espuma, roasted salty peanut crumble
Following was Chung's interpretation of douhua, traditionally a tofu pudding. This one worked for me, with the mild panna cotta melding well with the sugary red bean while sharp notes of salty peanut and astringent ginger completed the experience.


To go with dessert, we opened a bottle of the 2012 The Bruery Melange No. 3, a blend of Black Tuesday stout, White Oak Sap wheatwine, and Anniversary series old ale, all barrel-aged. It was a hefty beer to be sure, with a nose redolent of raisin, bourbon, and brown sugar. Taste-wise, I got more of the same, along with vanilla, spice, and a palpable booziness, with everything coming together nicely. The Bruery does high-power beers well, and this was no exception.


Persimmon Tapioca [$8.00] | fuyu persimmons, brown sugar and five spice granites, thai basil
Here, the comparatively mild sweetness of persimmon was paired with the sugary spice of two granitas. Thai basil did help offset the strong, perfume-y flavors at play, though I would've liked more of it.


Selection of House Made Sorbet and Ice Cream
To close, the Chef sent a sampling of her homemade ice creams. We enjoyed the pumpkin and chocolate varieties, though everybody's favorite was the black sesame, which really did a great job conveying the nutty sweetness of the ingredient (it reminded me of tangyuan filling). Excellent use of the savory, crunch bits on top, too.

Twenty Eight's a restaurant that I'd been curious about for a while now. It's a worthwhile addition to the often lacking OC dining scene, and as far as I know, I don't think anyone else is attempting this type of cuisine in the area. Most of the dishes worked, giving up classic, comforting flavors in modern packaging, though a few could benefit from some editing. After all, I think Chung's at her best when she's sticking closer to her Chinese roots. This could be a game changer, so I'm excited to see where she takes it.

Starry Kitchen x Grand Star (Los Angeles, CA)

January 3, 2015, 7:15 pm

≫ Next: Kinjiro (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Twenty Eight (Irvine, CA)

$

0

0

Starry Kitchen at Grand Star Jazz Club
943 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.814.1123
www.starrykitchen.com
Sat 12/20/2014, 07:15p-10:40p





Say it ain't so. After all that Starry Kitchen's gone through over the past several years--from its 2009 start in the Trans' NoHo apartment to California Plaza to weed dinners to Tiara Cafe to here at the Grand Star--the transient eatery is planning to slang its last ball at the end of January. Though SK has certainly garnered its fair share of publicity and praise, Thi and Nguyen have still never had a real place to call home, so they're drawing a line in the sand: either find a way to achieve a proper restaurant, or pack it all up and go home. As such, with the end so perilously near, I had to make my way back to Chinatown while I still had the chance.


Inside, the Grand Star is about what you'd expect for a small, under-the-radar music venue, but was surprisingly more comfortable than anticipated.


Starry Kitchen's menu was as irreverent as ever, offering up SK classics alongside newer creations. Drinks were handled by Grand Star, and comprised a menu of tiki cocktails of questionable merit, seemingly plucked straight out of 1948. We opted to BYOB at $5 per bottle. Click for larger versions.


SK's food really calls for beer, so I made sure we had some good ones lined up. First up to bat was the 2014 Toppling Goliath PseudoSue, a single-hopped Citra pale ale. The beer was pretty amazing, smelling gloriously of aromatic citrus and tropical fruit intertwined with hops. It tasted super well-balanced, with more refreshing citrus and bitterness leading to juicy notes of mango on the back end. I can see why everyone is looking for this stuff.


CRISPY TOFU BALLS [$6.50] | (the SK classic that has pleased+offended people everywhere.. "in yo' mouf" please ;D)
We began, fittingly, with Starry Kitchen's now infamous signature dish. I'd had their balls before, in my mouth, but tonight they were better than ever: delightfully crispy, yet supple, with a subtle, yet focused savoriness to 'em that went perfectly with a drizzle of spicy Sriracha aioli.


TANG-AY KOREAN PEPPER PASTE DBL-FRIED CHIX WAAANGS [$7.50]
Our first of two wing preparations was the more Korean-inspired version. It featured a satisfying heat from what I believe was gochujang, countered by a slight sweetness, and texturally the bird was on point as well: crunchy on the outside, yet juicy and tender inside. Nice pickles to go along with, too.


The second beer went in a much darker direction. An imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels, the 2014 Sierra Nevada Barrel Aged Narwhal was super smooth and surprisingly delicate. I got a nose of wispy dark fruit, and not much barrel. In terms of taste, there was velvety chocolate and espresso, joined by a not unpleasant soy sauce-esque savoriness.


DOUBLE-FRIED SWEET GINGER CHICKEN WAAAAAAAAANGS [$7.50]
As tasty as the K-wings were, these were even more to my liking, showing off a delicious blend of ginger and almost honeyed sweetness that I was quite enamored with.


Given that it was days before Christmas, we popped a bottle of the 2014 Nøgne Ø/Jolly Pumpkin/Stone Special Holiday Ale, a collaborative brew made with white sage, caraway, juniper berries, and chestnuts. It found this surprisingly effervescent, with bountiful sweet spice in the bouquet, while taste-wise, I got lots of light, thin dark fruit and malt.


PANDAN CHICKEN [$8.00] | (SO F'ING FOOD... but please PLEASE DON'T eat the leaf.. that is more expensive than the chix ;D)
Chicken arrived wrapped in pandan, imbued with the leaves' aromatic, subtly botanical flavors. A very juicy, savory, mouth-watering presentation of the bird.


SHIRMP+ PORK CHILI OIL WONTON+SZECHUAN SHREDDED POTATOES [$8.50] | (THEM LIL ONION-LOOKING SLIVERS... THEMS "CRUNCHY" RAW POTATOES YOU CAN EAT Y'ALL!)
This ostensibly hong you chaoshou-inspired dish featured firm, meaty dumplings that conveyed a really nice savoriness to them, one smartly played off of the inherent spiciness in the oil while the herbs added a touch of levity to the mix. Potatoes offered up a much appreciated textural variation, but I would've liked more of those slivers.


Moving on to a sour now, the 2013 Cascade Foudre #1 was actually one of my favorite beers I've tried from the brewery, a blend of tripels aged for up to 16 months in oak tanks (foudres). Think fruity and funky on the nose, while on the palate, I found it sweeter and more nuanced, with a rounder, oakier presence.


Now "MO' GARLICKY!"+ w/ FRESH NOODLES.. GARLIC NOODLES [$10.00]
When talking about garlic noodles, everyone seems to love Crustacean's, but SK's blow the pants off theirs, especially now that the dish is made with fresh noodles. They were indeed "mo' garlicky," really garlic-forward in fact, and loaded with a deep, earthy, almost briny savor, yet tempered by the astringent scallions sprinkled on top.


The first IPA of the night brought out the 2014 Alpine Nelson, one of the beers that the brewery secured its reputation with. Brewed with Nelson Sauvin, it really was damn good indeed, smelling really hoppy and grassy and tasting of even more hops intermingled with juicy tropical fruit. Very well balanced and a great example of what Alpine does best.


HOUSE-CURED ROAST PORK BELLY XO FRIED RICE [$15.00] | (XO is a SUPER SPECIAL CANTONESE SAUCE made of DRIED SCALLOPS, DRIED SHRIMP + HAM!)
I have a hard time resisting fried rice (it being one of my childhood staples), and this was some of the best I've had. I loved the richness of the pork here, further enhanced by the heady, umami-laden depth of XO, and just wanted a heaping bowl of the stuff to go to town with.


CHINESE MUSTARD GREENS, PANCETTA w/ CUTE LIL' FRIED GARLIC [$10.00]
Chinese mustard was a welcomed contrast to some of the more potent items on the table. The greens were pleasantly bitter and crunchy, augmented by the salty bacon while the fried garlic added a great accent piece to the dish.


We opened the 2014 Midnight Sun Berserker, an imperial stout brewed with maple syrup and molasses and aged in bourbon barrels, to go with the more robust dishes to follow. I found it very sugary on the nose, with loads of dark fruit and molasses character, while on the tongue, it was super smooth and round, with more of a roasty quality to pair with all the sweetness.


VIETNAMESE MINCED BEEF-TACULAR W/ FRIED-EGG-LICIOUSNESS [14.00]
Minced beef on rice is always satisfying, and this was no exception, with the sweet, savory, well-charred meat really singing with the zesty greens and a dab of tangy fish sauce. Can't go wrong with that runny egg, either, to tie it all together. Yum.


BRAISED SWEET SOY SAUCE GINGER PORK BELLY!!! [$15.00]
Pork belly was cooked to an almost ridiculously tender consistency here, yet there was still a gratifying, discernable interplay between lean and fat. Flavors were as deep and heady as you'd expect, a blast of sweet spice over a base of porcine goodness, moderated only slightly by the herbs up top.


Our second IPA, the 2014 Deschutes Chasin' Freshies, was also a winner. Made only once a year and incorporating fresh Mosaic hops, this was one of the sweetest-smelling IPAs I've had, with loads upon loads of fruit on the nose. I got even more grapefruit on the palate, evened out by a superb bitterness, making for a delicious, refreshing, harmonious beer.


CLAYPOT CARMELIZED STRIPED BASS+PANCETTA (aka "Ca Kho To") [$22.95] | (NOTE: THE PASSIONATELY CURSING OWNER'S FAV+"DEATHROW" DISH... ASK HIM FOR DEETS!)
SK's take on ca kho to didn't let me down, either. Basically a dish of braised bass (catfish is typically used) in a clay pot, the fish came out tender, yet still delightfully flaky. The flavor profile conveyed the inherent brine of the bass, but complemented it with just the right amount of sweetness and spice, making for a homey, hearty, death row-worthy sort of dish.


The 2014 The Bruery Rum Barrel Aged Black Tuesday was a bottle that I'd been wanting to try for a while now. I'd had the standard '14 BT recently at Black Hogg, and this was a version aged in rum casks instead of the usual bourbon barrels. I still got the notes of dark fruit, molasses, malt, and chocolate that you'd expect, but the rum gave things an additional spiciness that served as a welcomed twist to this legendary beer.


CANTO-STYLE CHAYOTE, ENOKI+GOJI BERRY STIR-FRY [$9.00]
I really don't get to eat chayote all that often, so I'm really glad we ordered this dish. I loved the light, bright crunch of the gourd, and how its mild flavors were amped up by the in-yo-face savoriness of the accompanying sauce and those enokis. A super pleasant surprise, and clearly the best chayote I've ever had.


SINGAPOREAN CHILI CRAAAAAAAAB (aka "CRAB") [$66.00] | w/ BUTTERMILK BEER BEIGNETS - "DING DING DING" BY RESERVATION ONLY.. UNLESS SOMEONE FLAKES!
Fittingly, we concluded with the meal's pièce de résistance, the much bandied about chili crab. It was as good as I remember, a powerhouse of sweet, supple, saline crabmeat that really showed off the essence of the crustacean. The chili, meanwhile, did a fantastic job in complementing, yet not overpowering the delicate flavors at play, making for one of the tastiest renditions of crab I've eaten to this day.


The 2014 The Bruery Befuddlement was our final beer of the night, a Hoarders Society exclusive comprising a blend of bourbon barrel-aged old ale and dark sour rye ale with boysenberries added. I'm not sure if I've had anything quite like it before. I got a base of oaky, malty flavors counteracted by a palpable sourness, the whole thing overarched by a delightful tinge of acidic berry fruit. Very cool.


SALTED PLUM LYCHEE PANNA COTTA [$5.00]
A couple desserts to close. The panna cotta was nice enough, giving up a sweet, floral, tart character to go along with the gelatin cream.


PANDAN CHURROS
Last up was a fun, off-menu dish of pandan-laced churros courtesy of Nguyen, a creative take on the traditional treat accompanied by a great kaya coconut egg jam.

I'm happy to report that Starry Kitchen's food is better than ever. The "Kitchen Ninja" has clearly been refining her craft, and it shows. That makes SK's precarious situation all the more unfortunate. From what I've gathered, the Trans already have a spot in Chinatown in mind for the next phase of their adventure, one that'll fully allow them to realized their vision. Significant investments are needed, however, to actually build out and open the space, so the pair has launched a "Save Our Balls Kickstarter" to help fund the restaurant. Time will tell if this works out for them, but I certainly hope it does (and you can be sure that I've already contributed to the campaign myself).

Kinjiro (Los Angeles, CA)

January 8, 2015, 7:05 pm

≫ Next: Robert Earl's BBQ (Long Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: Starry Kitchen x Grand Star (Los Angeles, CA)

$

0

0

Kinjiro Restaurant
424 E 2nd St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
213.229.8200
www.kinjiro-la.com
Wed 12/31/2014, 07:05p-01:05a





One of the more unfortunate shutters of 2014 for me was that of b.o.s., the highly-regard but never-that-popular beef-centric restaurant from Jun Isogai and Chef David Bartnes. The eatery closed in September, lasting just under a year. In its place, however, comes a nomiya (tavern) concept from Isogai, one touting modern, artisanal izakaya-style cuisine. Named after a 19th century agricultural-focused statesman, Kinjiro soft-opened in mid-November and features the cooking of Chef Yoshikazu Kondo.

About the Chef: Kondo hails from Tokyo, but received his culinary training in France, Italy, and Spain in addition to Japan. He came to the United States in the eighties, and soon found himself at Chaya Venice under Executive Chef Shigefumi Tachibe. He eventually rose to the rank of head chef, a position he held until at least 1996. From there, Kondo-san bounced around various Japanese restaurants in Little Tokyo, including the now-closed Izayoi just down the street. His last position was that of second-in-command at b.o.s., so it was an easy transition for him following the place's closure.


Decor-wise, things haven't changed too much since the b.o.s. days. Major updates include the shelving out front (holding spent bottles of booze) and the large specials chalkboard in the back.


Kinjiro's menu lists an appealing array of dishes in various categories, mostly classic, but with a few twists thrown in for good measure (note the italicized items). This is joined by a sheet of daily specials, which you'll want to pay close attention to as well. Drink-wise, there's a pretty healthy list of sakes, one that includes a few more unusual selections that you don't see too often. Other options include a handful of Japanese beers, shochu, and the requisite wines. Click for larger versions.


Given that corkage was graciously waived this evening, we brought out the beers, starting off with the 2013 Cascade Noyaux, a sour blonde aged in oak for 14 months, then rested with raspberries and apricot noyaux (seeds) for another seven. The result of all that was on the delicious side, a deft blend of sweet, tart, floral, and funky notes lined with hints of nutty oak.


Kinjiro Japanese Wagyu Carpaccio w/ Arima Sansho [$18.00]
We began with a tasting of Kinjiro's "signature" items. First up to the plate was one of the tastiest carpaccios I'd had in a while. Made from chuck, the slices were appropriately beefy, and expertly balanced by the onions up top while the arima sansho added a wonderfully spicy counterpoint that brought it all together.


Kinjiro Ceviche (Octopus, Shrimp, Snapper, Scallops, Mango) [$15.00]
The restaurant's riff on ceviche delivered as well. I appreciated how each item of seafood was well-textured and distinct, yet cohesive, tied together by undertones of sweetness, spice, and herbaceousness, with a hit of yuzu on top. Nice bit of crunch from the included chips, too.


Kinjiro Free-range Chicken Kara-age [$8.00]
Kinjiro's karaage comes in a rolled, maki-like presentation, a higher-class touch that you rarely encounter. It wasn't just about looks though, as the chicken really satisfied, a juicy, flavorful bird with super savory skin and a great accompaniment in the form of that zippy sauce on the side.


Next up to drink was the much-hyped 2014 Three Floyds Zombie Dust, oft regarded as the pinnacle of the American Pale Ale style. It was indeed a superbly-crafted beer, with a nose redolent of tropical, floral fruit intermingled with hops and a taste loaded with citrus fruit, a touch of malt, and more pine-y bitterness. I'd still give the edge to its closest competitor, Toppling Goliath's PseudoSue, though.


Kinjiro Agedashi Homemade Tofu, Mushroom Ankake Sauce [$11.00]
The age tofu was another winner, and a legitimate challenger to Raku's hegemony in the space. We adored the combination of sweet and earthy mushroom flavors against the mildness of the curd, and the nori on top was a perfect accent piece. Texturally, think silky and supple on the inside, with some chew on the skin. This is one you probably want to get.


Kinjiro Beef Tendon, Tongue, Sinew & Tripe Miso Stew [$10.00]
Kinjiro's offal stew was also a pleasant surprise, with its deep, earthy flavors and myriad of textures making for a hearty course that paired gorgeously with the green, seaweed pesto-like condiment on the side.


I'd purchased the 2013 OWA Yuzu Lambic a while back, and had been waiting for an opportune time to pop it. Produced in Belgium by former Kirin brewer Leo Imai, the beer is comprised of fresh, one-year, and two-year wood-aged lambic, blended and matured for another year with the zest of Wakayama yuzu. The nose was intense with intoxicating aromas of citrus and spice; on the palate I got more sour yuzu, joined by a surprisingly pleasant salty, almost gose-like backbone. Clean and refreshing, and a bit more nuanced compared to the MAD Beer Sour (Sur) I'd had not long ago at Tokyo Fried Chicken.


Kinjiro Bone Marrow Dengaku [$9.00]
This is of course the first time I'd had bone marrow done dengaku style, or miso-glazed and broiled. It worked out for the better though, with the trembling, gelatinous tissue conveying a richness that really linked up well with the sweet-savory nature of the miso while scallions on top offered up a blast of countering astringency.


Kinjiro Squid Ink Udon [$14.00]
Udon was soft and slippery, good to the bite and teeming with briny, ika sumi-enhanced goodness. Great texture on the rings of squid as well, and we were quite enamored by the chopped up bits of the cephalopod here too, which added a well-placed chewiness and savor to the pasta.


At this point, we ordered up a bottle of sake, the Tengumai Yamahai Junmai [$45] from Ishikawa Prefecture's Shata Shuzo. We really enjoyed it, finding it super ricey and floral on the nose and smooth, clean, and flavorful on the tongue, with just a smidge of heat toward the rear. A great value to boot.


Raw Sea Cucumber with Ponzu [$8.00]
This might've been my first time having sea cucumber in raw form. Taste-wise, the namako didn't offer up much, so it was all about the heat of the momiji oroshi and tangy ponzu to go along with the crunchy, slick consistency of the delicacy.


Wasabi Potato Salad, Smoked Salmon, Ikura [$8.00]
Regular readers will know that I'm a sucker for potato salad, and the version tonight was certainly one of the stronger ones I've had. I loved the smoky, salty slant of the dish, and how the salad closed with a subtle, yet persistent undercurrent of wasabi heat. Seemingly simple, but gratifying.


Moving on to another sour now, here was the 2013 The Bruery The Wanderer, which I'd wanted to try for a while now. It's a blend of oak-aged sour ale and the brewery's anniversary ale, with blackberries and Bing cherries added, produced in collaboration with San Francisco's City Beer Store. It smelled pretty fantastic--tart cherry and funk--and tasted even better, with loads of black cherry flavor, oak, malt, and a lactic sort of tartness, the whole thing finishing dry.


Fried Yearling Oysters [$10.00]
Baby oysters were lightly fried, their subtle salinity nicely augmented by the savoriness of the aonori batter. Excellent when taken with the richly-flavored wakame seaweed "tartar sauce" on the side, which did a great job in completing the dish.


Cucumber, Octopus, Tomato and Seaweed Sunomono [$8.00]
A vinegared salad of sorts served as a fitting palate cleanser, the beautifully-textured slices of octopus highlighted by the nuttiness of sesame while the tangy veggies provided the desired levity.


IPA duties tonight were handled by the 2014 Revolution Brewing Unsessionable, ostensibly a middle finger to the burgeoning trend of session (low ABV) beers. Loads of bitter, pine-y notes on the nose here. The aroma belied the palate though, which I found particularly malty and caramel-laced, making for an easy-drinking tipple.


Wild Monkfish Tatsuta-age [$10.00]
One of the tastiest bits of monkfish I've had came in the form of these tatsutaage, fried fritters that really showcased the meaty, satisfying texture of the anko. Excellent with a dab of the wasabi-tinged sauce on the side.


Santa Barbara Uni Tempura [$15.00]
I believe that this was my first encounter with tempura'd urchin. The frying process seemed to minimize the creaminess of the roe, instead accenting its savoriness, taken against a wrapping of minty shiso. I appreciated the light batter on the other items included here as well, and everything went well with a blot of matcha salt.


Niman Ranch Pork Belly Kakuni, Half-boiled Free-range Egg & Daikon [$15.00]
Kinjiro's take on kakuni was on point, with the belly coming out chopstick-tender, but still with a nice bit of bite to it. You got all the deeply porky, savory-sweet flavors that you'd expect, with the added benefit of the runny eggs and a puck of daikon to even things out.


And now for a headier brew: the 2014 Hair of the Dog Cherry Adam From The Wood, an old ale brewed with cherries and aged in oak for 15 months. It was one of the silkiest beers I'd had in recent times, with a base of chocolate, malt, toffee, and barrel qualities intermingled with a subdued amount of sweet-tart cherry.


Dashi-simmered Stingray Fin [$15.00]
Stingray wing was delicate and almost crab-like in consistency, imbued with classic flavors of dashi, the bevy of subtly sweet, umami-rich notes working hand-in-hand with the zesty onions on top.


Free Range Chicken Thigh with Yuzu Kosho Pepper [$10.00]
Chicken thigh was a crowd pleaser, the juicy, flavorful cuts eating superbly with the salty spice of yuzukosho. Can't go wrong with this.


The 2014 Fantôme Pissenlit was a Belgian ale done in the saison style, brewed with dandelion flower "tea." It was certainly more interesting than your usual farmhouse ale, surprisingly malty on the nose, with grassy, spicy flavors and a fruit-like sweetness.


Wild Black Cod with Saikyo Miso [$14.00]
Here was a spot-on rendition of the ubiquitous tara no saikyo yaki. It was more refined than most, with the flaky, fatty fish conveying a restrained salinity that paired swimmingly with the miso's inherent sugariness.


Grilled Onigiri Rice Ball (2pc) [$7.00]
The onigiri were excellent, with a fantastic nutty, toasty character from the grilling that really complemented the rice. Nice crunch from the takuan, too.


Santa Barbara Uni Pasta [$14.00]
Kinjiro's take on the quintessential Japanese pasta dish displayed a nuanced presentation of the star ingredient, with the uni's lush, creamy nature melding with the nori on top in seamless, classic fashion.


The heftiest drink of the night was the 2013 De Struise Black Damnation I - Black Berry Albert, a blackberry-fermented imperial stout aged in Port barrels. It was a tasty one, with a distinct dark fruit character and a good amount of vinousness dominating over a base of stout goodness.




Wild Snapper Sashimi Ochazuke [$12.00]
Up next was an excellent example of ochazuke, probably the best I've had in fact, a homey, well-integrated dish that smartly incorporated the rare slices of fish.


Miso Soup with Manila Clams [$6.00]
We ended the savories, fittingly, with a classic miso soup, one amped up in intensity by the incorporation of those clams.


The final beer definitely went in a more dessert-y direction: the 2014 Off Color Dinosmores, an imperial stout made with graham flour, marshmallow fluff, vanilla, and cocoa nibs. It really did recall its namesake treat though, with loads of marshmallow-y goodness joined by notes of chocolate, roast, and a subtle graham cracker character.


Black Sesame Mousse [$6.00]
Dessert time; and you can be sure that we got all three on offer. The black sesame mousse was a winner, really conveying the focused, robust essence of kuro goma in a creamy package while the kuromitsu syrup on the side imparted additional sugariness to the fray.


Sake Kasu (Lees) Crème Brulee [$6.00]
Sake kasu was the star of the crème brûlée, providing a delightfully earthy, ricey, boozy flavor to the cheesecake-like custard.


Hojicha (Roasted Green Tea) Panna Cotta [$6.00]
Last up was a pretty amazing panna cotta, one imbued with the bittersweet, roasty taste of hojicha. The tea flavors paired well with the intrinsic sweetness of the dessert, and the maple on the side gave up an extra hit of sugar to boot.

What Isogai and Kondo-san set out to do here at Kinjiro was to really give izakaya-style cookery the care it deserves, to elevate it. To that effect, it's clear to me that they've succeeded, with top-notch ingredients and spot-on technique, execution, and flavors. In fact, it was probably my best izakaya experience to date, and as far as I'm concerned, Kinjiro sets the new standard for such cuisine in LA. Fans of Japanese dining will certainly want to keep this place on their short lists.