Juniper & Ivy (San Diego, CA)

June 2, 2015, 8:00 pm

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Juniper and Ivy Restaurant
2228 Kettner Blvd, San Diego, CA 92101
619.269.9036
www.juniperandivy.com
Fri 04/24/2015, 08:00p-11:10p





The biggest thing to hit the SD dining scene in recent times has gotta be Juniper & Ivy, a shiny new modern American eatery with a "left coast edge." Named after the streets that border the building's location on the outskirts of Little Italy, the restaurant is the brainchild of Chef Richard Blais, investment manager Michael Rosen, and Concentrics Restaurants, the hospitality company that developed Blais' concepts out in Atlanta.

About the Chef: Blais was born in Uniondale, Long Island in 1972. His first job in the biz was at McDonald's, though he did eventually move up to Fuddruckers at age 14, and went on to cook at a number of places near his hometown. His first real job, though, was a stage at Charlie Palmer's landmark Aureole in Manhattan. Blais entered the Culinary Institute of American in 1996, and after his first year there, interned at The French Laundry, where he cooked alongside CdC Eric Ziebold as well as Grant Achatz. Upon returning to the CIA, he began teaching at the school's fish kitchen and working on a sustainable farm in Mount Kisco. This led to a position at Daniel Boulud's eponymous Daniel upon graduation in 1998, and later a brief stint at Cal Cuisine icon Chez Panisse.

In 2000, Blais relocated to Atlanta to take on the Executive Chef role at Fishbone. He stayed at the seafooder until its closure in 2003, then went to Spain for six weeks to stage at El Bulli. Invigorated from the experience, the Chef debuted BLAIS in September 2003 with George McKerrow Jr. (the owner of Fishbone), a full on "molecular gastronomy" joint that was ahead of its time; the restaurant closed in the middle of 2004 after less than a year. After the shutter, Blais formed consulting firm Trail Blais, then served as Exec Chef at tapas restaurant Bazzaar for a handful of months. In 2005, he became head toque at Concentrics Restaurants' One Midtown Kitchen and also developed the menu at Piebar, a pizza-focused eatery also from Concentrics. He also competed on Season 3 of Iron Chef America during this period, losing to Mario Batali in "Battle Chickpea."

Blais left Atlanta in the summer of 2006 and headed south to Miami, where he consulted for the short-lived Barton G on the Boulevard. He later returned to Atlanta in January 2007 and took over the kitchens at Element Gastro Lounge + Food Lab, which closed that October while he was filming Top Chef in Chicago. That December, Blais went to work at Elevation in Kennesaw, but was out by the next spring, right around the time when TC premiered; he ended up in second place, behind winner Stephanie Izard. In April that year, he served as opening chef of Atlanta's Home Restaurant & Bar, but decamped after six months, only to team up with Barry Mills to launch Flip Burger Boutique in West Midtown that December.

Flip was a success, and in August 2009, Blais made an appearance on Top Chef Masters, assisting winner Rick Bayless. December 2009 saw another outpost of Flip at The Summit in Birmingham, Alabama, while a location in Atlanta's Buckhead district opened in October 2010. December 2010, meanwhile, marked the debut of Top Chef All Stars--which ended with Blais taking home the win over Mike Isabella--as well as Blais Off on the Science Channel. His hot dog joint HD-1 Haute Doggery opened in Poncey-Highland, but wasn't nearly as successful as Flip, and was converted to the burger concept in November 2013. Blais' next restaurant came at the end of March 2012, The Spence, an ambitious yet casual spot produced in partnership with Concentrics. In April 2012, the Chef made an appearance as a judge on Season 2 of Top Chef Canada, and in October, starred on Life After Top Chef.

Blais' YouTube cooking show Burger Lab was introduced in January 2013, and in February, his cookbook, Try This at Home: Recipes From My Head to Your Plate, dropped (it was later nominated for a James Beard award). Rounding out 2013 were appearances on Food Network's Chopped All-Stars (he came in second to Gavin Kaysen), Guy's Grocery Games, and Rachael vs. Guy: Kids Cook-Off, not to mention a hosting gig for Cook Your Ass Off on the HLN network. In March 2014, Blais launched Juniper & Ivy, and in August, triumphed over Marcel Vigneron on Top Chef Duels. That October, he continued his relationship with the TC franchise as a regular judge for Season 12, and also brought us Hungry Games on Food Network. At start of 2015, Blais opened another Flip Burger in Nashville, and in March, left his role at The Spence to focus on Juniper & Ivy.

The team at J&I also includes Blais' right-hand man, Executive Chef Jonathan Sloan, a Pacific Northwest native who previously served as Chef/Partner of Roy's San Diego Waterfront. Sloan is accompanied by West Virginian and California Culinary Academy grad CdC Anthony Wells, who worked with Blais at The Spence and completed stages at both Meadowood and Per Se. Rounding out the kitchen are two Bradleys: Sous Chef Bradley Austin (Tender Greens, The Lodge at Torrey Pines, Blanca) and Pastry Chef Bradley Chance (another alum of The Spence and Flip). Finally, the front-of-the-house is led by General Manager Daniel Pena (Herringbone, Burlap, Searsucker) and AGM/Sommelier Tami Wong (La Valencia Hotel, 3rd Corner Wine Shop & Bistro).





Juniper & Ivy occupies the warehouse that was once Helix Wholesale Co. Redone by Atlanta's The Johnson Studio (The Royce in Pasadena), the restaurant spans a massive 7,500 square-feet and accommodates around 250 diners. The space is anchored by an impressive expo kitchen (replete with eight counter seats) and also features a two-story wine cellar, upstairs private dining room, and outdoor patio dining.


The menu at Juniper & Ivy is divided into six sections. It's a bit unwieldy actually, though the dishes themselves do read well. À la carte is usually the way to go here, though in February, a tasting menu option was instituted at $95 plus $60 for beverage pairing, available for eight diners only, on Thursdays. Speaking of beverages, you'll probably want to order cocktails from Eric Johnson (Sycamore Den, Craft & Commerce, Noble Experiment), who joined the team in March (opening bar manager Jen Queen is out). Wine's a worthy option as well, with a roughly 100-selection list (of which two-thirds is imported) divided into "Tried and True" and "Leap of Faith" sections. The restaurant's beer program (i.e. six taps), however, leaves much to be desired, especially considering San Diego's longstanding obsession with craft brews. Corkage is offered at $25, though the fee is waived for each bottle you purchase from the list. Click for larger versions.


"Pena" Cillin [$10.00] | Scotch / Pena Honey / Lemon / Ginger / Mezcal Kiss
Our table wasn't quite ready when we arrived, so we opted for some cocktails in the waiting area out front. First up was an ode to Sam Ross' modern classic, the Penicillin. Lovely smokiness here on the nose, intermingled with fresh lemon, while on the palate, I got a mish-mash of citrus and almost honeyed sweetness, all finished again with a pleasant touch of smoke form the Scotch/mezcal combo. Quite good.


Midnight Marauder [$12.00] | Gin / Muddled Blackberry / St Germain / Lemon Meringue Foam
This next cocktail was on the easier-drinking side, with the sweet foam leading to lots of tart fruit, all closing out with the sourness of lemon.


Like Buttah [$11.00] | Brown Butter Bourbon / Cynar / Carpano Bianco
Arguably my favorite of the threesome here, this drink really did live up to its name. Think classic citrusy, bitter aromas, leading to the weight of the bourbon and a growing buttery goodness that lingered long and strong. Very cool.


Upon being seated, we were presented with some cheddar-chive biscuits: creamy, cheesy puffs that showed off a great countervailing chive astringency. Delish.



Chelsea Gem Oysters [$21.00] | Red Wine Mignonette / Kimchi Cocktail Pearls / 1/2 Dozen
The meal proper began with an appropriately "molecular" presentation, the half-dozen oysters arriving in a cloud of liquid nitrogen gas. The Washington bivalves were briny and sweet, a suitable base on which the spicy kick of the kimchi spherifications could really shine. A spot on pairing.


Devil in Disguise [$12.00] | Whisky / Creme de Mure / Ginger Beer / Bitters
The next cocktail displayed a pleasant mix of sweet berry, sour citrus, and zesty ginger flavors, all cut by a marked bitterness and just a hint of booziness from the whisky.


BBQ Octopus [$13.00] | Eel Sauce / Green Papaya
Octopus was well-textured with a great char, its salinity augmented by notes of sweet spice from the unagi sauce. Nice acidity and crunch here from the papaya, too.


Deviled Eggs [$8.00] | Egg White Meringue / Yolk Mousse / Cured Ham
Deviled eggs arrived creamy and sweet, with a punch of salt from the ham and a "shell" that dissolved near-instantly on the tongue. Very neat, though I did miss the texture of egg white here.


Soltera [$11.00] | Tequila Blanco / Aloe Liqueur / Lime / Cucumber / Mint
Cucumber was smartly conveyed here, set against the sweetness of aloe while lime and mint provided the necessary zip to the drink.


Roasted Garlic Sausage [$9.00] | Ramp Kimchi BBQ / Kraut
Sausage was tasty, slightly sweet, with a welcomed tartness from the sauerkraut. However, texturally I wanted the meat juicier, with a snappier casing.


Lamb Leg [$12.00] | French Dip Style
A miniature French dip did a commendable job showcasing the flavors of lamb leg, even without the accompanying jus. Nice bit of crunch and brightness from the accompanying veggies to boot.


Well's Bells [$10.00] | Vodka / Pineapple / Mint / Pena Honey / Soda
Pineapple was the star here, its tropical flavors enhanced by the pena honey while mint served as an accent piece in the drink. The vodka here I found surprisingly apparent, though not unpleasantly so.


Halibut Ceviche [$9.00] | Pickled Jalapeno / Sesame Seed / Avocado Puree
I always gravitate toward ceviche, and J&I's was enjoyable. Some really bright, tangy flavors here, all moderated by the creamy avocado while jalapeño gave things a great underpinning of heat.


Bone Marrow-Nara [$17.00] | Rosemary Garganelli / Pork Neck / Lemon Gremolata
Pork neck really delivered here, arriving super tender and super porcine, a great complement to the well-textured pasta and tangy sauce. However, I didn't get much marrow at all (not that the dish really needed it).


In the Ivy [$10.00] | Orange Blossom Vodka / Pressed Lemon / Blueberry Riesling Emulsion
Here was the most gluggable cocktail of the evening, one that gave off an almost lemonade-y quality to it, with the blueberry-Riesling pushing things more toward the saccharine side. Tart and refreshing.


Carne Cruda Asada [$14.00] | Quail Egg / Cotija / Jalapeno
In one of Juniper & Ivy's more well-known dishes, we had here a slab of crusty toast, covered in cotija, jalapeño-studded beef, and multiple quail eggs. It was as tasty as you'd imagine, with the springy cuts of meat taken up a notch by the heat of the peppers while the creamy cheese and runny egg provided that enveloping richness.


Linguni & Clams [$14.00] | Uni Butter / Red Chili / Brioche Crouton
One of the highlights for me was the restaurant's take on traditional linguine with clams. The pasta here was wonderfully enrobed in the rich, buttery essence of sea urchin, which joined with the clams to make for a massively briny, lush combination that was dutifully offset by the overarching heat in the dish.


Caracara [$12.00] | Tequila / Rum / Campari / Cane Sugar / Citrus
It wasn't clear to me if our final cocktail actually contained cara cara oranges, but it was certainly tasty, with powerful sweet citrus notes evened out by nuances of spice and bitterness, the booze peaking through just a tad.


Almond Wood Grilled Carrots [$9.00] | Pickled Apricot Puree / Grilled Peanut Oil / Jalapeno Chimichurri
Carrots were a pleasant surprise. They showed off a fantastic charring, which did a great job counteracting the veggies' inherent sweetness. My favorite part? That zesty, spicy chimichurri. Yum.


English Pea [$10.00] | Feta Snow / Green Hummus / Chickpea / Mint
Peas were also to my liking, all light and bright and sweet, melding swimmingly with accompaniments of feta, hummus, and garbanzo.


Porchetta di Testa [$9.00] | Crostini / Fennel Pollen / Lemon Oil / Pickled Jingle Bell Peppers
Pig's head was appropriately porky, giving off plenty of salty, savory flavors over a base of crispy bread while the fennel and lemon added the requisite spice and acidity to even it all out.


With the cocktails drunk up, we moved on to some bubbly, the Pinot Noir/Riesling NV Over the Moon Rose Sekt [$36]. It was a fun, lightweight sparkler, dry, yet with juicy notes of strawberry backed by a bright, crisp acidity.


Pork Belly [$16.00] | Bay Scallop / Young Broccoli / Butter Poached Onion / Pork Jus
Pork belly hit the mark, with the fatty slab of meat arriving delightfully charred, its hefty, porky flavors cut by the bitter broccoli and that zippy onion. Nice textural element from the scallop, too.


Spring Lamb [$38.00] | Rib Chop / Date Sausage / Morels / Creamed Ramps / Pistachio Crumble
We ended with one of the larger plates on the menu. Lamb came at the proper temperature, imbued with a sweet spice and the savoriness of morels. I was a fan of the spring onions, which provided an offsetting pungency to the mix.


For dessert, I cracked open a beer that I'd been holding on to for a while now, the 2014 Goose Island Bourbon County Vanilla Rye, an imperial stout aged in rye whiskey barrels with whole vanilla beans added. There's a ton of hype surrounding this bottle, but the beer actually lived up to it. The bouquet was intense, intoxicating, comprising boatloads of sweet, sugary vanilla joined by an undercurrent of malt and booze. On the tongue, more sweet vanilla, chocolate, with just a touch of tempering rye spice. There wasn't too much barrel character here, which probably worked out for the better. This was one of the best beers I've had all year, and one of the best stouts I've had, ever.



Yodel [$12.00] | Devil's Cake / White Chocolate / Hazelnut Brittle / Hot Chocolate
We started with Juniper & Ivy's signature dessert, an homage to Drake's Yodels cakes (devil's food cake, vanilla creme, frosting). I'd actually never had a Yodels before, so I don't know this compares to the original. It was damn tasty though, with its rich, sugary chocolate flavors joined by nutty bits of hazelnut, the whole thing cut by the tart juicy sweetness of strawberry. Neat presentation, too.


Brown Butter Ice Cream [$11.00] | Popcorn Mousse / Torn Croissant / Lime Curd
Brown butter ice cream definitely delivered on its namesake, showing off a nutty sort of sweetness that worked well with the slightly savory popcorn mousse. Nice hit of lime from the curd to boot.

I was a tad wary going in to Juniper & Ivy given the scale of the operation, concerned that my experience here might veer corporate, humdrum, or impersonal. We really did have a lovely time though. The cooking was interesting enough and creative enough, yet still familiar, comforting, with a finesse to it. Blais seems to have let go of the whole "molecular" aura surrounding him, and looks to be turning out legit food with just a few modernistic touches thrown in where appropriate.

So what's next? Blais and Rosen (without Concentrics) are working on a second restaurant, an all-day, fast-casual spot called The Crack Shack. The new eatery will focus on food made from chicken and eggs, and is set to debut in the fall next door to J&I, with perhaps even more locations coming. Personally though, I'd like to see the Chef take a crack at the Los Angeles dining scene.

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Eight Korean BBQ (Los Angeles, CA)

June 6, 2015, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Catch & Release (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Juniper & Ivy (San Diego, CA)

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Palsaik Korean BBQ
863 S Western Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90005
213.365.1750
www.eightkoreanbbq.com
Thu 04/09/2015, 07:30p-09:15p





One of the more unique KBBQ joints in town is no doubt Eight, which opened in summer 2011 as Palsaik (they changed their name in late 2013, presumably to attract a larger clientele). The original moniker translates to "eight colors," and indeed, the conceit here is that the restaurant specializes in eight different flavors of samgyupsal. Eight is a branch of a vast chain of pork belly specialists, with dozens of locations in Korea, three in Malaysia, one in Singapore, and another SoCal outlet down in Buena Park.


Inside, the vibe is clean, sleek for KBBQ, with perhaps the most interesting design detail being those oil drum-looking stools (which cleverly open up for storage).


The main unit of consumption here is obviously the set of eight flavors, though each variety is available separately too. There are also a few additional pork selections, a couple requisite beef options, and some sides. To drink, you get your typical selection of Korean booze. Corkage is $15, though we weren't charged for our bottles this evening (possibly because we were discreet). Click for larger versions.


The grills here are unique, slanted to one side in order to let the pork juices flow into waiting mounds of kongnamul and good ol'baechu kimchi.


Other banchan included this light, subtly sweet 'n tangy macaroni salad.


My favorite were the yangpa jangajji and gochu jangajji, or soy sauce-pickled onions and jalapeños.


Ssamjang was provided, natch.


Violet disks of pickled mu (daikon) were crunchy and refreshingly tart.


The requisite lettuce salad, to provide that much needed touch of lightness to the meal.


And lastly, some watery mul kimchi.


We BYOB'd it and got started with a sour, the 2012 Panil Barriquée. A cognac barrel-aged Flanders Red, this one was quite to my liking. I noted lots of oaky, earthy funkiness in the beer, joined by flavors of dark fruit and a pointed sourness.


8 Flavors of Pork Belly Combo [$49.99]
Naturally, we had to taste the rainbow and started with Palsaik's signature (and oft photographed) 8 Flavors of Pork Belly, which includes Seafood Soybean Stew, Mushrooms, Vegetable, Kimchi, Bean Sprouts, Mixed Salad, and Fried Rice.



The slabs of pork belly are grilled for you, four at a time, starting with the mildest-flavored examples.


First up was the Red Wine, which had some very slight wine-y undertones, being otherwise typically porky. Not bad, though I wouldn't have identified this as being marinated in wine if you didn't tell me.


The Original was just what you'd expect, giving up a pronounced porcine presence tempered by a lovely touch of char. Can't go wrong with the O.G.


Along with the belly came the haemul doenjang jjigae. This had some nice depth to it, with the ocean-y essence of the seafood augmented by the earthiness of soybean paste as well as the spicy underpinning of the stew. Hot and hearty.


Ginseng, meanwhile, showed off a medicinal sort of bitterness toward the midpalate.


Garlic was my favorite of the first foursome, with the zesty notes of the maneul marinade doing a great job complementing the natural flavors of the pork.


The oldest beer tonight was the 2010 AleSmith Decadence English Style Old Ale, an unabashedly malty tipple loaded with notes of dark fruit and a discernible spice. Still quite youthful despite its age.



At this point, the second, more vibrantly colored set of pork bellies hit the grill.


The Herb arrived super herby indeed, with tons of what I believe was rosemary. A very "Western" tasting example.


Curry worked pretty well, presenting the aromatics of a curry powder that you might find in Singapore-style noodles.



With the jjigae all drunk up, our server proceeded to whip up some kimchi bokkeumbap with the dregs. It was a fine example, though I would've liked some more nurungji to mix things up texturally.


My overall favorite just might've been the Miso Paste version. The inclusion of doenjang here provided a great depth of flavor that really heightened the intrinsic goodness of the samgyupsal.


Last up was the Red Pepper Paste, which also made sense, the gochujang giving up a palpable, though not overwhelming heat to complement the pork.


And now for something lighter, the next beer was the 2014 Perennial Regalia, a farmhouse-style saison brewed with barley, wheat, and spelt and fermented with Brettanomyces. Some lovely sweet, fruity, citrusy notes on this one, all underscored by the funky, yeasty backbone of the beer. Very nice.




Pork Jowl [$23.99]
With the combo all eaten up, we moved on to the hangjunsal, a deeply-flavored presentation of jowl with a satisfying texture and well-placed bit of charring.




Prime Korean Style Boneless Rib [$39.99]
Moving on to beef, kkotsal was super tender and super juicy, with a delicate flavor profile.


The final beer came in the form of the 2013 Brooklyn Silver Anniversary Lager, produced two years ago to celebrate the brewery's 25th anniversary. A special doppelbock version of the original lager the company introduced in 1988, this one was quite lovely, with a great base of dark fruit, caramel, and malt nuances joined by a countervailing hoppiness and spice.




Prime Beef Brisket [$23.99]
Last up was the chadol, our traditional opening meat. Palsaik's was a pretty prototypical example, thinly-sliced, tender, with an apparent beefy quality to it.


No dessert was served, so we sufficed with some kyung dan from Happy Rice Cake House a few doors down.

The concept behind Eight/Palsaik is a bit gimmicky, but the food actually delivers for the most part. The eight flavors of belly are distinct enough and generally tasty, though some preparations do work better than others. Meanwhile, the quality of the non-samgyupsal cuts appears to be on point as well, and the service wasn't lacking either. We all left pretty happy with the place.

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Due to the lack of real dessert, we headed on over to Sul & Beans following the meal.


Opened in October 2014, Sul & Beans is, of course, a dessert cafe specializing in bingsoo, Korean-style shaved ice.


Above we see the menu, featuring various types of bingsoo along with toasts and beverages. Click for a larger version.


Injeolmi Bingsoo [$7.95]
We started with the signature injeolmi variety. This was good, real good, coming out nutty and sweet, with a wonderfully gratifying mouthfeel from the powder. Fantastic crunch provided by the dried jujubes as well, and just very well put together overall. Probably the best bingsoo I've had.


Sweet Rice Punch [$3.45]
Sikhye was as sweet and as ricey as you'd expect.


Black Sesame Bingsoo [$8.95]
The black sesame patbingsu also delivered in a big way, with the nutty essence of the chamkkae beautifully matched to the sugariness of red bean. And again, excellent crunch from the daechu as well. I liked this quite a bit more than Okrumong's.


We also made sure to finish the last beer I had on me, the 2013 Hangar 24 Barrel Roll No. 3 Pugachev's Cobra, an imperial stout brewed with maple syrup and aged eight months in bourbon barrels. It was a classic BBA stout, teeming with a bouquet redolent of coffee, chocolate, and dark fruit, while tasting of more dark fruit and coffee, malt, and bourbon character.

Catch & Release (Los Angeles, CA)

June 10, 2015, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: Carnitas' Snack Shack (San Diego, CA)

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Catch and Release Restaurant
13488 Maxella Ave, Marina del Rey, CA 90292
310.893.6100
www.catchandreleasela.com
Thu 05/07/2015, 07:30p-10:40p





The last time I posted about Jason Neroni, it was July 2012 and I was reporting on the opening night of Superba Snack Bar, that game-changing Venice eatery conceptualized in partnership with Pitfire Pizza's Paul Hibler. The Chef would eventually become Culinary Director for Hibler's American Gonzo Food Corporation, and in that role, launched Costa Mesa's Pie Society in June 2013, the Culver City branch of East Borough in January 2014, and Superba Food & Bread with Jason Travi in April 2014. However, Neroni left Hibler's side in June last year, only to team up with the Bill Chait-led Sprout Restaurant Group (and later drop B-Side Pizzeria in New York in September).

Set in the old Paiche space, Catch & Release is the first product of that partnership. As the name implies, we're talking about a seafooder, one ostensibly inspired by the time Neroni spent each summer back in Maine with his family, and also his many years spent working in the Southland. Catch & Release debuted on May 7th, and one of my dining companions was able to snag a table for opening night.


Paiche's deep sea digs have been transformed by Studio Unltd (Bestia, BierBeisl, MessHall) to a brighter, beachier sort of affair, with seating for 110 diners along with 10 more at the bar.


For Catch & Release's menu, Neroni's got a moderately-sized selection of shareable plates, perhaps traditional at their core, but with some fun flourishes and global influences mixed in. Drink-wise, we're dealing with fun cocktails designed by Julian Cox (and executed tonight by Nick Meyer), a handful of lighter-style beers, and a reasonably compact list of international wines. Click for larger versions.


Wicked Pissah [$12.00] | Bourbon, Honey, Gingerbread liqueur, Amaro, Lemon
With only seven cocktails on the menu, naturally we had to try 'em all. Given the New England slant of this place, we started with this appropriately-monikered number. Great mix of lemon and holiday spice on the nose, and on the palate, more of said spice, bittersweetness, and an almost chocolate-y sensation toward the close.


oysters, lemon, bread & butter mignonette - 12 [$28.00]
Kumamotos and Kusshis, arguably my two favorite oyster varietals, arrived plump and firm, with a clean brine that worked swimmingly alongside the zip of mignonette.


ho-jo style clam strips with bread & butter tartar sauce [$12.00]
A take on Howard Johnson's iconic clam strips was a winner: simply savory, beautifully textured specimens that paired perfectly with the herby sauce on the side.


Suffering Bastard [$12.00] | Vermont Gin, Rye Whiskey, Ginger, Lemon, Allspice
A vaguely Moscow Mule-inspired drink came in the signature copper mug and showed off a bracing interplay of ginger and lemon, all accented by mint while the finish was all about the spice of rye.


"ants on a log" celery salad, marinated raisins, bayley hazen blue cheese, peanuts [$13.00]
I'd actually never had the chance to experience the iconic American snack of ants on a log, so I didn't have a point of reference here, but I really enjoyed this. In fact, it was one of the best celery dishes that I've had. The key was the interaction between the tangy, almost smoky blue cheese, sweet raisins, and zesty celery, a really well-balanced combination that was a pleasant surprise for me.


oysters, lemon, bread & butter mignonette - 6 [$18.00]
The third type of oysters on offer tonight, Ichibans, were also on point, creamier than the two above, but also imbued with a clean flavor profile that hit the mark.


lobster roll, tarragon and dukes mayo, parker house roll [$20.00]
The requisite lobster roll satisfied as well, with the sweet, well-textured meat smartly paired with Duke's and a touch of spice. I especially liked the Parker House rollls here, with their soft, almost creamy consistency and buttery sweetness.


Scuttlebutt Smash [$12.00] | Rye Whiskey, Dry Vermouth, Tangerine, Fennel, Lemon
This next cocktail was fairly easy-drinking, with loads of tart, citrusy notes over a subtle booziness, the whole drink finishing with a well-placed trace of fennel.


"mashed potatoes" [$10.00]
Given that this was listed as "mashed potatoes" on the menu, replete with quotes, I was sort of expecting something a little avant garde, like with foams or some such thing. Rather, what we got was a near flawless rendition of Robuchon-style pomme purée, an utterly classic, utterly buttery preparation that you should probably order.


jumbo asparagus, colatura aioli, tuna prosciutto, kelly's egg, wood sorrel [$14.00]
Asparagus was as bitter and crunchy as I wanted, joined by an umami-rich tuna ham and piquant aioli that really did a nice job imparting depth and complexity to the dish.


Ward 8 [$12.00] | 101 proof Rye, Lemon, Maple Grenadine, Orange Foam
This take on an old school Bostonian cocktail was easy to take down, with its juicy notes of sweet fruit and spice offset by the tanginess of lemon a delicate backbone of rye.


smoked cod chowder, bacon, potatoes, biscuits [$13.00]
I have a hard time resisting chowder, so this was of course a must-order for me. There was a fantastic depth of flavor here thanks to the use of smoked cod, and I appreciated the additional smoke and salt imparted by the bacon as well. I wanted more potato though, to help moderate things and provide some textural variation.


burrata, "everything bagel", trout roe, crispy green garlic [$15.00]
Neroni's reimagined "everything bagel" was the most whimsical dish of the night, and really did a great job playing the multifaceted spice here against the cool creaminess of burrata, all while the roe added a delightful salinity to the fold. Taken all together, you could almost get bagels and lox.


old bay fries with tartar sauce [$10.00]
Fries were pretty much spot on, perfectly textured and well-spiced with just a smidge of Old Bay. Tasty alone and even better with a dab of tartar.


Cape Codder [$12.00] | Vodka, Cranberry Cordial, Lime
This straightforward cocktail was light and refreshing, with a fruity, bittersweet bent backed by the potency of vodka.


spaghetti, dungeness crab, ramp butter, chiles, breadcrumbs, preserved lemon [$18.00]
Spaghetti arrived al dente but also unexpectedly verdant, with the astringent kick of ramps balancing out the sweet brine of the Dungeness. Very neat.


ricotta dumplings, uni, "carbonara", bacon, scallions, lots of black pepper [$20.00]
Gnocchi-like dumplings were almost fluffy to the bite, a fitting base on top of which the classic carbonara flavors could really sing. Loved the scallions here.


Del Rey Daiquiri [$12.00] | Agricole Rum, Lime, Cane Syrup, Manzanilla Sherry
Here was one of the better daiquiris I've had, a delicious presentation that really showcased its ingredients in a straightforward, yet rather profound manner.


roasted scallops, seared foie gras, miso kelp broth, black kale [$34.00]
Scallops showed off a spot on texture and salinity, augmented by the smoky kelp broth while mushrooms added a great hit of earthiness to the mix. The foie wasn't even necessary.


wild striped bass, rancho gordo beans, broccoli, tomato confit, sherry beef jus [$35.00]
Bass was well-cooked, but its accoutrements went too heavy. I got a lot of sweetness, butteriness, and tart tomato, but the fish was a bit lost amongst all that.


sausalito trout, pea and pistachio veloute, snap peas, pea greens [$29.00]
In our final savory, trout came out light and crispy, with its heady, briny flavors evened out by the brightness of the accompanying peas.


Jeff Bridges [$12.00] | Caffe Moka, Vanilla, Cream, Rum, Nutmeg
This last cocktail was great for dessert, a White Russian-like concoction that displayed some delectably creamy, coffee notes intermingled with loads of sweet spice.


Gingerbread Whoopie Pie [$7.00]
C&R's take on the whoopie pie delivered, its spicy gingerbread serving as a great foil to the cool, lush buttermilk-lemon ice cream while the berries added a trace of tartness to things.


Brown Butter Zeppole [$7.00]
Zeppole were made with brown butter in the batter, and were surprisingly hefty little examples, their creamy, spicy filling countered by the jammy blueberry-Meyer lemon preserves.


Strawberry Shortcake [$8.00]
This version of strawberry shortcake hit the mark as well, combining hot pound cake, fresh strawberry, strawberry sorbet, orange zest, and Chantilly cream into one cohesive, delicious whole that really showed off the fruit.


Boston Cream Pie Trifle [$8.00]
Boston cream pie was served in trifle form, a potent dessert that conveyed the traditional flavors of chocolate and cream, with the sliced almonds adding a nutty accent to things.

Despite it being opening night, things went pretty smoothly tonight, both in terms of the service and the cooking. The kitchen seemed to be mostly on the proper footing right out the gate, delivering seafood-centric plates that blended the classic with Neroni's more Californian leanings. It's a restaurant worthy to supersede Paiche. As for the Chef's next steps, he and Sprout will be taking over Venice's Rose Café, which shuttered in February. The plan is to reconceptualize the space, which will be renamed The Rose and hopefully debut in summer.

Carnitas' Snack Shack (San Diego, CA)

June 14, 2015, 12:00 pm

≫ Next: The Gadarene Swine (Studio City, CA)

≪ Previous: Catch & Release (Los Angeles, CA)

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Carnitas' Snack Shack
2632 University Ave, San Diego, CA 92104
619.294.7675
www.carnitassnackshack.com
Sat 04/25/2015, 12:00p-01:50p





One of the most beloved San Diego spots of recent times is undoubtedly Carnitas' Snack Shack in North Park. Named after the owners' pet pig, the casual eatery is the work of the husband-and-wife team of Chef/Owner Hanis Cavin and GM/Owner Sara Stroud. Carnitas' opened at the end of 2011 in the former Vo's Cafe address, and aims to deliver a pork-centric, casual American menu and local craft beers. A second location, meanwhile, dropped in Del Mar last August with a larger menu and a larger space.

About the Chef: Cavin was born and raised in San Diego, and after discovering his aptitude in the kitchen at a young age, enrolled at the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vermont. After graduating in 1992, he toiled at American Seasons Restaurant in Nantucket, but eventually returned to California. Cavin found work as Executive Chef at Triangles at University Towne Centre near UCSD, and in 1996, became CdC at Hillcrest's Mixx. His next move was to Pacifica Del Mar in 1998, and in 1999, he joined the Urban Kitchen Group. There, he cooked at Kensington Grill and helped open its sister restaurant Chive in the Gaslamp.

Cavin left UKG in 2000 to become Executive Chef at Dakota Grill, and in 2003, took on a role leading up the culinary program at the Hilton San Diego Gaslamp Quarter. In 2005, he moved to Pacific Coast Grill in Solana Beach, and in January 2007, rejoined the team over at Kensington Grill, where he would meet his future wife/business partner Sara Stroud (she was the GM; the two married at the end of 2012). Cavin stayed there until July 2011, when he would leave to start work on Carnitas'. In the interim period, the Chef also consulted briefly for the Lafayette Hotel, but left mid-way through his contract, handing off the gig to Bill Gnam before debuting the Snack Shack in December. The second location in Carmel Valley, meanwhile, opened in August 2014.


Ordering is done at the front counter, while the food will be delivered to you in the cozy-yet-modern, wood-swaddled outdoor seating area replete with its own bar called Pig Pen (where you can purchase booze).


The menu at Carnitas' changes daily, though there are always a good number of standbys. To drink, you get beers by the bottle and on tap, along with a handful of wines. Click for larger versions.


We ended up BYOB'ing it. First up was a bottle of 2014 Russian River Pliny The Elder from last April that I was aging intentionally. Almost exactly a year old by this point, it was still a nice beer, not as juicy or as citrus-y as it was fresh, but still with plenty of hops on the nose and a sharp, bitter, bracing flavor profile.


Pork Belly App [$8.50] | seared pork belly, apple frisee salad, sweet-spicy sauce
We began with one of Carnitas' most longstanding dishes. The belly was exactly as advertised, coming out tender and fatty, with crispy skin and boatloads of porkiness, the slab slathered in a sweet-ish sauce. The slaw on the side was appreciated as well, since it gave up some acidity, brightness, and crunch to cut through the meat.


Shack Chicharrones [$6.00] | crispy skin & spicy tomato-avo salsa
Pork rinds were superb: super crunchy, airy specimens loaded with a blend of porky savor and seasoning spice. Even better with a dab of the sweet-hot sauce on the side.


Here we had a small growler of the 2015 Bottle Logic Melon Baller. Fantastic, sweet, melon-y nose on this one; for taste, I got your signature IPA bitterness initially, but with the sweetness of the fruit lingering long on the back end. Very cool.


Tacos [$8.00] | carnitas, pico, guac, 2 corn tortillas
The signature tacos were arguably my favorite course of the meal. The pork arrived deeply flavored and supple, yet with delightfully charred, crispy bits mixed in. Perfectly accompanied by some guac and salsa. Delish.



Triple Threat Pork Sandwich [$9.50] | carnitas, pork schnitzel, bacon, pepperoncini-pickle relish, shack aioli, amish bun
This pork threeway worked out rather well, with the carnitas providing depth, the schnitzel providing texture, and the bacon providing a blast of salt. Nice use of the relish as well to provide some acidity and zest.


The 2014 Allagash Nancy was a sour ale brewed with Balaton and Montmorency cherries and Brettanomyces, then aged in stainless steel for about a year. I found this pleasantly tart, dry, with some bready and spicy qualities to it; I would've liked more of the actual cherry though.


Fries [$3.00] | shack seasoning, bacon ketchup
Fries were crisp and well-seasoned, tasty alone but even better with a dip in the accompanying salsa.


Beet Terrine [$8.00] | local beets, goat cheese, spinach, frisee salad, balsamic glaze
Now for something healthier. I'm no fan of beets, but they worked out well enough here, their sweetness offset by the creamy, lactic tang of the goat cheese while all the greenery added a necessary lightness to the dish.


H&B Guacamole + Chips [$8.00] | locally made guac, house chips
Guacamole wasn't made in-house, but was instead provided by H&B's GuacShac, a local purveyor. I was a fan of the guac's texture and how it showed off the inherent goodness of the avocado, though I wanted to taste a touch more acid, more zip. The chips, meanwhile, were just passable, and could've really been crunchier.


Moving on to a heavier beer now, we had here the 2010 Founders KBS (Kentucky Breakfast Stout), a bourbon barrel-aged stout brewed with chocolate and coffee. I got lots of sweet chocolate in the aroma here, which I enjoyed. On the palate, there was that oaky barrel character, but the coffee took on a disconcerting, vegetal quality that I wasn't too keen on. In this case, I definitely preferred the beer fresh.


Pork Meatloaf Sando (Open Face) [$8.50] | pork meatloaf, bacon gravy, pickled onions, brioche
Meatloaf was dense and heavy, with hearty, porcine flavors that were amped up even further by the lushness of that gravy. I really appreciated the offsetting tartness of the pickled onions here, though I wanted less of the brioche (i.e. a higher meat-to-bread ratio).


Chile Verde [$8.50] | braised pork, salsa verde, cilantro, onion, creme fraiche, corn tortillas
Last up was Carnitas' take on chile verde, another standout for me. The pork came out well-braised, all tender and toothsome, its deeply heartwarming flavors enriched by the dollop of crème fraîche while cilantro and onion imparted the necessary brightness. Great broth here, too.


The best beer of the day was clearly the 2015 Funky Buddha Last Snow, a limited-release porter from South Florida brewed with coconut and coffee. I smelled tons of delicious roasty coconut and chocolate, while on the tongue, there was even more of that creamy, in-your-face coconut, all leading to a long, lingering finish redolent of coffee. Yum.




We concluded our time here with a homemade loquat tart, one that incorporated product grown right in my backyard. It did an excellent job showcasing the fruit, with the loquat's balance of sweet and tart nuances well conveyed against a backdrop of crumbly crust.

We had a fun time at Carnitas'. The food delivered pretty much exactly what it promised: a comforting, multifaceted, approachable-yet-polished ode to pork that's pretty much perfect for the location. I can see why this place is so popular. As for what's coming up for Cavin and Stroud, a third outpost of Carnitas' is due to drop on the North Embarcadero waterfront by summer's end, so look out for that.

The Gadarene Swine (Studio City, CA)

June 17, 2015, 8:50 pm

≫ Next: Ración (Pasadena, CA)

≪ Previous: Carnitas' Snack Shack (San Diego, CA)

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The Gadarene Swine Restaurant
11266 Ventura Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 91604
818.508.5500
www.thegadareneswine.com
Fri 05/08/2015, 08:50p-10:55p





When I last caught up with Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas, it was the middle of 2013, shortly after the husband-and-wife team debuted Scratch Bar. The restaurant turned out to be one of the more surprising successes of that year, and since then, Lee has been busy on the Food Network circuit, scoring three consecutive wins on Guy's Grocery Games in January 2014, Chopped that February, and Cutthroat Kitchen in December. In July last year, the Chef also announced The Gadarene Swine, a vegetable-centric eatery produced in concert with Scratch Bar partner Daryoush Danesh that ended up dropping in September. Joining Lee in the kitchen is Chef de Cuisine Marty Shield (a.k.a. Martin Pajzs), while General Manager and Wine Director duties are handled by Jason Mosley.


The restaurant occupies the space that was once home to Eggplant, a seemingly middle-of-the-road Japanese place. Not too much has changed, though the room is a bit more rustic, woodier, and probably dimmer too. In addition to the tables, there are eight seats at the bar, along with a quaint little outdoor "wine garden" in the front.


As for the menu, The Gadarene Swine offers up mostly à la carte courses, but there are reasonable tasting menu options at $50 and $65 as well. To drink, Mosley's got a small wine list going on, as well as a handful of beers. Click for larger versions.


To drink, we opted for something fun to start, the Molo 8 lambrusco monovano, italia NV [$40]. As with most Lambruscos, I found this one grape-y and sweet, with lots of floral, dark fruit nuances that made it go down easy.


Roasted Garlic and Fresh Thyme Popcorn [$3.00]
The meal commenced, appropriately, with popcorn, enrobed in roasted garlic oil and dusted with sea salt, sugar, and thyme. These were surprisingly addictive: sweet and floral at first, with an herby kick, but also somehow buttery.


Fried Olive Stuffed Olive [$6.00]
Next was one of the restaurant's more well-known dishes, comprising olives stuffed with sweet potato and Kalamata purée, then coated with apple-lime syrup, fried in beer batter, then sprinkled with sea salt and more of that syrup. There was a great interplay of olive-y piquancy and sugariness here, and the textural contrast between the batter and the stuffing definitely worked as well. Note that this was once the sole dishing keeping GS from becoming vegan, due to its previous use of honey.


Lemon & Pistachio Kale Chips [$3.00]
"Chips" were composed of kale leaves, marinated in red vinegar, lemon, sugar, salt, and cayenne, then dusted with pistachio and dehydrated. The results were super light, fragile almost, with a flavor profile that balanced tangy and bitter. Scratch Bar also had a version of this dish, but using Parmesan instead of pistachio.


Bowl of Edamame [$5.00]
The ubiquitous bowl of edamame was taken up a notch by the inclusion of a house-made Japanese BBQ sauce and nori chips. It was a straightforward, but thoroughly effective match, with the rich, sweet-tart condiment working beautifully with the more delicate taste of the beans.


Sourdough w/ Crushed Tomato Oil [$8.00]
The tomato dip comprised sugar-blistered roasted tomatoes whipped with olive oil, topped with chives, basil, and balsamic. It did a nice job conveying the tanginess of the tomato, augmented by the heft of the olive oil and some herbaceous influences, and made for a fitting complement to the housemade sourdough (ostensibly baked from a 52-year-old starter).


Hummus, Seaweed Snacks, Potato, Tomato [$10.00]
With the snacks all eaten up, we got into our starters at this point. The first brought a base of chickpea purée with roasted garlic, topped with purple potatoes, tomatoes, nori chips, pistachio, and parsley. It was one of my favorites tonight, a beautiful mix of textures and flavors, with the umami-rich savor of the seaweed serving as particular highlight. Great heft from the potatoes as well, and the pistachios really worked here too.


Tomato Shooter [$4.00/pp]
Next was a fun little course. First, consume the sugary roasted tomato with serrano and pickled red onion. Second, shoot the commixture of nigori sake, pineapple, and tomato oil. Finally, scrape out the remaining bits of creamy avocado mousse, red onion, and cucumber at the bottom of the glass.


Crisp Yucca [$13.00]
My favorite dish of the night was arguably the yuca (note the single "c"), which was probably the best preparation of the ingredient that I've had. The root veggie arrived boiled, fried, coated in chimichurri, and dressed with pickled red onion, red bell pepper, apple, pecan purée, and avocado mousse. The hearty, sweet-savory character of the cassava was well-displayed, its weightiness perfectly balanced by the bright, tangy flavors that accompanied it.


Shaved Vegetable Salad [$15.00]
The requisite salad was composed of a dozen or so vegetables, and came finished with toasted pecans and a yellow zucchini vinaigrette. I found it pretty satisfying, a mélange of crisp, bright flavors underscored by a palpable bitterness, the whole thing accented by nutty hits from the pecan.


Tomato, Parsley, White Onion [$11.00]
Here we see tomato, parsley, and onion, topped with dehydrated versions of themselves, sitting atop a sweet corn pudding. The key was indeed that pudding, which provided a sugariness to the course that augmented the inherent sweetness of tomato, the duo of onion and parsley imparting a much-needed lightness.


Peanut Butter & Jelly [$10.00]
Next was certainly the most unconventional take on PB&J that I've seen. The dish had a base of the aforementioned sourdough, covered with housemade peanut butter and a jam constructed from prunes, cranberries, and red wine. On top we have arugula, shaved carrots, salt, lemon, olive oil, and pickled shimeji. It all made for an interesting, yet surprisingly effective contrast between the classically sweet, savory, buttery PB&J on the bottom and the zesty, vinegar-y salad up top.


Blackened Cauliflower [$12.00]
Our final starter was a dish from Scratch Bar that apparently served as the inspiration for this entire restaurant. A multifaceted plate, it comprised a base of cauliflower purée, four colors of roasted-blackened cauliflower, pickled red onion, basil, pistachio, and dehydrated cauliflower stem chips. It was even better than I remember, with the still-crunchy veggie giving off a pleasing char savor that was well-paired with the aromatics of basil and zippy red onion, all while the pistachio offered up a nutty accent piece to the dish.


For our next wine, we kept with the bubbly stuff and ordered a bottle of the Louis Bouillot brut rose NV cremant d'bourgogne, france [$70]. It was a fun sparkler, with your expected notes of strawberry on the bouquet, leading to more light, bright, dry citrus-y fruit on the palate, cut by a marked minerality and perky acidity.


Roasted Mushrooms w/ Burnt Sweet Potato [$16.00]
Our first main course came in a deep bowl, and was composed of a torched sweet potato purée base with nutmeg and cinnamon. On top was a ragu of shimeji and cremini with English peas, grape tomatoes, arugula, cremini chips, as well as pan-roasted, shawarma-seasoned maitake. I was a big fan of the char and earthy savor of the mushroom here, as well as how its flavors were complemented by the various greenery present. However, the sweet potato went overly sugary for me, and tended to overwhelm some of the other things going on.


Vegetables in a Box [$15.00]
Lee is somewhat know for his "____ in a box" preparations, and with this, I think he's improved on what he was serving over at Scratch Bar. We had sautéed asparagus and corn, garlic, and parsnip purée encased in a deep-fried Yukon Gold potato box, garnished with arugula, salt, EVOO, and lemon, all sitting atop puréed charred Japanese eggplant. I liked this better than I thought I would, with the bright, crisp, straightforwardly satisfying veggies pairing swimmingly with the savory, potato chip-esque box, the whole thing underscored by a great smokiness from the eggplant.


Dirty Rice w/ a bunch a veggies [$19.00]
The final dish of the standard menu was quite possibly the cleanest dirty rice ever, a presentation of brown rice, nori, roasted and sautéed veggies, avocado mousse, and fresh avocado. It all made for another standout dish for me, a lovely mix of tastes and textures, highlighted by the creaminess of that avocado while everything was brought together by a sort of overarching tanginess.


Strawberries & Champagne
At this point, we requested a couple dishes from the tasting menu that weren't on the à la carte selection. First up was a strawberry salad of sorts, with arugula, pickled cucumber, pickled sweet onion, figs, and toasted pecans, all drizzled with a strawberry-Champagne gazpacho. The plate looked almost dessert-like to me at first, but the sweetness of the berry was surprisingly well-balanced, with the veggies really counteracting the fruit while the pecan added a contrasting nuttiness to things. Neat.


Roasted Carrots
Our last savory was a celebration of carrot, bringing together sugar-roasted carrot and shaved carrot over a sweet potato purée, alongside a butternut squash "nest", a pineapple-ginger-turmeric foam, and a garnish of carrot tops. Taken together, the course commingled the inherent sweetness of carrot with the holiday spices contained in the sweet potato, making for an almost carrot cake-like eating experience, countered by just a trace of bitterness.



Tres Leche
Time for dessert. The first was easily the most unorthodox tres leches I've encountered. The cake itself was made from coconut, almond, and hemp milks, topped with a pickled orange juice granita and cotton candy, then drizzled with grapefruit candle oil. The actual tres leches was tasty enough, though not too similar to the traditional cake. However, I wasn't too fond of the candle oil, since it imparted a smoky, savory quality to the cotton candy that I found slightly disconcerting.


Deconstructed Pear Pie
A sort of deconstructed pear pie à la mode was much more successful in my eyes, marrying brown sugar streusel, coconut milk-pecan ice cream, and sugar-braised pear, all finished with sea salt and olive oil. Taken together, it was a harmonious commixture of fruit, spice, and creamy ice cream that did an admirable job conveying the essence of the classic dish. Great textures, too.


Coconut Pudding
Last up was the coconut pudding, with more of that brown sugar streusel from above, virgin mojito granité, diced strawberries, and Thai basil. The flavors really meshed well here, with the cool, creamy pudding making perfect sense with the tart berry and minty, herby elements here. And again, fantastic textures, with the streusel in particular offering up a great crunch.

I was somewhat wary coming in here, having limited experience with the whole vegan thing. The dinner really blew away all our expectations though. The cooking definitely highlighted the ingredients and displayed depth and complexity, but also managed to show off the Chef's creativity and playfulness--you really didn't miss the meat at all. In the end, what we have here is not merely good vegan food, it's good food.

Ración (Pasadena, CA)

June 21, 2015, 7:30 pm

≫ Next: B.S. Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: The Gadarene Swine (Studio City, CA)

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Racion Restaurant
119 W Green St, Pasadena, CA 91105
626.396.3090
www.racionrestaurant.com
Sun 05/17/2015, 07:30p-10:30p





Up until recently, if one had a craving for tapa-ish food, I'd likely send them to The Bazaar, José Andrés' modernist homage to the Spanish staple. However, with the advent of Ración, an ostensibly Basque-influenced Spanish slanger situated in Old Town Pasadena, I'm not so sure. Taking its name from raciones, which are like larger sized tapas, the restaurant debuted in March 2012 and is the work of Chef Teresa Montaño and GM/Pastry Chef Loretta Peng.

About the Chefs/Owners: Peng was born in 1979, the daughter of Taiwanese immigrants, and grew up in the tony enclave of San Marino. She attended UCLA, studying Economics and American Lit, and moved to New York in 2002 to start a PhD program in Literature. In 2004 however, she dropped out of the program and, despite having no professional cooking experience, secured a job at David Bouley's eponymous Bouley. Peng stayed there for six months, eventually becoming chef de partie on the fish line, and later worked small stints at a dozen or so other restaurant in the City, including Picholine and Floyd Cardoz's Tabla. The following year, she moved to the front-of-the-house, becoming a server and bartender at SushiSamba, a scene-y Japanese fusion joint.

That position didn't last long, however, and she soon found herself back in Los Angeles looking for a role in restaurant management. Peng landed at bakery-café chain Le Pain Quotidien, and during her tenure there, was able to open three locations and strengthen her management skills. After a quick stay at Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken's Border Grill, she relocated back to NYC in 2008 to start an accelerated MBA program at Columbia Business School. She graduated in 2009, and moved once again to LA, returning to former employer Border Grill. That summer, Peng was put in charge of their mobile catering operation, where she met sous chef Teresa Montaño.

Montaño, for her part, was born in 1982, an Albuquerque, New Mexico native who grew up poor in a family of six kids, all raised by a mother who was rather resourceful in the kitchen (out of necessity). Her childhood was dominated by soccer, and she was quite good at it, good enough to land her a spot at Pepperdine University. She dropped out, however, in the summer of 2004, and, having no prior work experience, landed a gig at Vital Zuman, an organic farm in Malibu that specialized in figs.

The job got Montaño more interested in food, so in 2006, she enrolled at the Art Institute of California's Los Angeles campus. After finishing her degree the following year, she became a grill cook for the team that opened Tender Greens Culver City. Wanting to experience a higher-end restaurant, she moved to Feniger and Milliken's Ciudad in Downtown LA. Montaño worked there for a year and a half before being promoted to Kitchen Manager at sister restaurant Border Grill, where she was able to hone her management abilities. At this point, she was asked to run the food program on the Border Grill Truck.

It was June 2009. Montaño and Peng didn't care for each other at first, but after months of spending time together, eventually became friends, and later lovers. The duo moved back to New York in 2010 after Peng got an offer from the Restaurant Opportunities Center, a non-profit focused on bettering conditions for industry workers. Her task was to turn around COLORS, a worker-owned fine dining-ish restaurant, and she quickly recruited her partner to revamp the menu (Montaño had to turn down a gig at Jean-Georges Vongerichten's ABC Kitchen as a result). The pair made some positive changes to the place, and even launched the casual COLORS Café at the NYU Wagner School of Public Service, but ended up departing in late 2010.

After moving back to LA once again, they started conceptualizing Racion. The original plan was to open the restaurant inside the Eastern Columbia Building in DTLA's Broadway Theater District (just up the street from Alma). They even launched a failed Kickstarter in April 2011, but delays in construction eventually forced the couple to sign a lease that November for their current space in Pasadena. With a location locked down, Montaño and Peng debuted Racion in March of 2012.



The restaurant occupies the former home of Michelin-starred Northern Italian eatery Trattoria Tre Venezie. The previous restaurant's homey, slightly cluttered digs have been transformed into something much more minimal, though still comfortable. The Ana Henton (Love & Salt, Aestus, Lukshon) penned affair seats 55, with an additional six at the bar up front.


Racion's menu is somewhat lengthy, as they tend to be at tapas joints, and features an array of classic selections along with some of Montaño's more unconventional creations. To drink, you get an all-Spanish wine list, some beers, a smattering of sherry, and a few ciders. Corkage is $20. Click for larger versions.


As always, the first wine was something with bubbles, this time the Cava Avinyo Brut Reserva, Penedes, Xarel-lo, Macabeo, Parellada [$36]. I found it a crisp, refreshing sparkler, and dry, with some tasty pear and apple notes joined by a pleasant minerality.


Bread is by request only, and I'm glad we requested it. Nice crustiness and lactic tartness here, with a very good olive oil to boot.


arbequena olives & manzanilla olives [$5.00]
Arbequinas and Manzanillas were classic in their piquancy.


salt cod fritters, lemon cream [$7.00]
Bacalao fritters were more supple than they appeared, almost creamy, with a soft lemon-y quality up front leading to plenty of salt and savor toward the back end. Very nice.


flat iron steak tartare, chive blossom capers and salt cod brandade [$16.00]
The tartar arrived well-textured, with a depth to the steak that was smartly matched with the brightness of its various accompaniments. Great when taken with the included bread.


lamb meatballs, basque cider, picon, licorice greens [$10.00]
Albóndigas were a must, and came out appropriately lamb-y and earthy, with a great char, savor, and a luscious cream sauce that almost recalled Stroganoff. Yum.


chicken croquettes, membrillo honey [$9.00]
Croquetas were wonderfully creamy, with the rich, satisfying savor of the bird leading to an intriguing sugariness on the close due to the honey.


Naturally, we had to try a glass of the Sangria [$6], made here with red wine, sherry, and apple cider. It was a refreshing, easy-drinking preparation, with a sweet spice to it that I was fond of.


duck sausage-stuffed squid, salsa tinta, duck jamon [$16.00]
Next was a marriage of two of my favorite things. I loved the savory, herby, undeniably gratifying sausage just by itself, but it was definitely taken up a notch by the snappy, springy squid here and the salt of that ham. This is one you probably want to get.


house-made squid ink pasta, mussels, piquillo peppers, saffron [$15.00]
Properly-textured noodles were imbued with a subtle brine, augmented by the salinity of the mussels while piquillo and saffron offered up a fitting counterpoint.


beer-braised octopus, local squid and chorizo, asturian white beans [$24.00]
Octopus was a winner as well, crispy and charred on the outside, yet still tender, its delicate savor amped up by the spicy chorizo while the beans did a great job moderating the dish.


white anchovies, watercress and celery, manchego [$6.00]
Anchovies were a pleasant surprise, fishy and firm examples beautifully balanced by the zip of the watercress and celery in particular. Nice bit of salt from the Manchego, too.


spring vegetables with lemon preserve, seed crackers and vadouvan [$14.00]
Veggies were delightfully light and bright, giving up some great textures and fresh flavors that evened out the crunchy, strongly-spiced chips.


wild mushrooms a la plancha, duck jus, heirloom carrots, eucalyptus [$13.00]
Mushrooms were earthy and satisfying, their dark, woody nuances well-matched to the greenery on the plate. However, the carrot base I found overly sweet, and slightly jarring.


Our next tipple was a sidra, specifically a bottle of the Poma Aurea 2011, Asturias [$34]. It was a delicious cider, quite bubbly, with a dry, funky, crisp apple quality to it that was just to my liking.


crispy pork belly, dark chocolate, puffed wheat berries, citrus [$17.00]
Cubes of pork belly were wonderfully crispy, yet super fatty, melt-in-your-mouth almost. But at the same time, their heft was cut by the bitterness of the radicchio and dark chocolate, all while the citrus imparted a marked lightness to the dish. Great texture and temper from the wheat berries, too.


crispy prawns, garlic cream, roasted tomato [$13.00]
Prawns were just crispy enough, imbued with a delicate brine that was complemented, but not dominated by the duo of aioli and tomato.


french cod al pil pil, garlic olive oil and chives [$17.00]
Cod came out tender and flaky, its subtle relish well matched to the allioli on the side. However, I wanted to taste more from the actual pil pil treatment here.


sea bream with jamon broth, slow poached egg, spring peas [$22.00]
Sea bream showed off a delightfully crisp skin, its softly saline flavors taken up a notch by the rich, hammy broth while the runny egg added further luxuriousness to the mix. Lovely brightness from the peas to even it all out as well.


crushed potatoes, romesco seco, sherry cream [$11.00]
In our final savory, potatoes arrived as hearty as I'd hoped for, with a slight saltiness that made perfect sense with the contrasting notes of romesco and sherry cream.


Our last drink of the night was a beer, the Mateo & Bernabe 7 Fermin, Spanish Red Ale, Rioja [$25], certainly the most interesting Spanish cerveza I'd ever tasted. On the nose: sweet red fruit and malt, with a not unpleasant metallic tinge. Taste-wise, I found it malty and sweet, with more fruit and a countervailing hoppiness to even things out. Quite delicious overall.


Time for the sweet stuff. Click for larger versions.


Coffee Semifrio [$10.00] | frozen coffee mousse, flourless chocolate cake, caramel
We ended up getting all five of the desserts, starting with this take on a semifreddo. Think a balance of chocolate and coffee flavors in multiple textures.


Crema Catalana [$9.00] | spanish custard, pistachio, citrus
Catalan cream was light and airy, with a nutty, citrusy bent that made sense with the crispy crackers and streusel here.


Olive Oil Cake [$9.00] | vanilla panna cotta, strawberry
The requisite olive oil cake was super moist, and teeming with aromatic notes of vanilla that just called for the countering tartness of the berries.


Chocolate Mousse [$10.00] | dark chocolate mousse, lemon, churros
Churros came out piping hot, creamy, and very enjoyable on their own. The mousse wasn't even necessary.


Lavender Parfait [$9.00] | Earl Grey-infused frozen parfait, shortbread
Arguably my favorite of the quintet, the parfait showed off some delightfully sweet, floral notes that went superbly with the shortbread crumbles.

I'd heard a lot of good things about Racion before even stepping into the restaurant, and I'm happy to report that the place did not disappoint. The cooking here seems to bridge the gap between your pedestrian tapas joints and the temple that is The Bazaar. You get your classics, rendered in high quality, as well as some more intriguing dishes that hint at modern Spanish stylings intermingled with a Californian sensibility. It's an appealing combination to be sure.

B.S. Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA)

June 24, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Kaito Sushi (Encinitas, CA)

≪ Previous: Ración (Pasadena, CA)

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BS Taqueria
514 W 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.622.3744
www.bstaqueria.com
Fri 05/22/2015, 08:00p-10:15p



Ray Garcia's been a fixture on the LA dining scene for years now, though I'd never really had his food before, getting only brief glimpses at events such as Angeleno's Chefs Night Out and #LAlovesPI. That all changed recently though with the debut of B.S. Taqueria, the Chef's casual new-wave taco joint set in the old Mo-Chica space.

About the Chef: A third generation LA native, Raymond Garcia grew up in the Northeast neighborhood of Cypress Park. Though he experienced more than his fair share of Mexican home cooking as a kid, he never got seriously interested in food, though he certainly enjoyed eating it. His first job in the restaurant biz came at age 16 at Chuy's in Glendale, a long-shuttered Mexican place that's now home to Armenian joint Pierre Garden. He started at UCLA in 1995, studying both political science and business economics, and during his time there worked as a server at a number of places around town. It was also during this period that he really fell in love with food, largely thanks to his roommate Brandon Go, whose family operated Koi in Seal Beach and who helped Garcia get his first taste of Japanese cuisine and foie gras.

After graduating in 1999, Garcia delayed starting law school and instead enrolled at the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena. Once he was out of the CSCA, he began working at The Belvedere--that schmancy restaurant located inside the Peninsula Beverly Hills--in 2001, and stayed there until 2007. Garcia also staged at both Cyrus and The French Laundry during his time at the hotel. In January 2008, he joined the team at Santa Monica's Fairmont Miramar, and helped debut FIG, the hotel signature restaurant, early the following year. He received considerable accolades for his cheery Californian cooking there, and really began making a name for himself during his tenure.

In October 2012, Garcia hosted the First Annual Sausage Fest at the hotel, where he cooked up links alongside the likes of Vartan Abgaryan, Greg Daniels, Bernhard Mairinger, Daniel Mattern, and Kris Morningstar (this was followed by an encore the next October, with newbies Paul Buchanan, Christian Page, and Jason Travi). May 2013 saw him triumph at Cochon 555 with pork ceviche and butt tamales at Hollywood's House of Blues, a feat he would repeat the next February. The second-time winner then made his way to Grand Cochon in Aspen that June, where he took home the title of "King of Porc" with his chilaquiles dish.

Meanwhile, Garcia made his television debut in July 2014, appearing on Ilan Hall's Knife Fight and defeating Ricardo Zarate in an octopus battle judged by Morningstar and Naomi Pomeroy (perhaps an ominous hint at things to come). However, the Chef would decamp from FIG that October, replaced by Yousef Ghalaini, and started his own company, Garcia Hospitality, that same month. In January 2015, it was revealed that he'd be teaming with Bill Chait for Broken Spanish, a modern Mexican eatery located inside the former home of John Sedlar's groundbreaking Rivera. This was soon followed by the announcement for B.S. Taqueria, which quickly opened at the start of April with Garcia Hospitality partner Jacob Shure (FIG, XIV, Wolfgang Puck Catering) manning the FOH.



Mo-Chica's former digs have been redone by LA-based firm Bells & Whistles. It's more colorful now, yet rougher-hewn, with an intriguing, very dimly lit "indoor patio" of sorts occupying the back room (which was previously adorned with alpaca-inspired graffiti).


The menu at B.S. Taqueria is centered around tacos, rightfully so, but said tacos are joined by a small array of snacks, sides, small plates, and daily-changing large format dishes. To drink, you get a few beers, and even fewer wines, so the focus here is clearly on the cocktails, the responsibility of Beverage Director Michael Lay (ex-Faith & Flower), who takes charge of a program originally crafted by Julian Cox. Click for larger versions.


Orange Bang [$11.00] | Mezcal, Fresh Tangerine, Pineapple, Housemade Coconut Cream, Chiltepin Salt
And about those cocktails, there were a mere seven on the menu, so of course we went for the lot of 'em. The first was an ode to the frothy, ubiquitous drink that is Orange Bang. I've actually never had the original for comparison, but I can say that this was damn tasty: citrusy and subtly smoky on the nose, with a creamy mouthfeel and loads of tropical fruit flavor to balance out the mezcal.


"Rice and Beans" [$5.00] | Toasted Rice, Garbanzos, Butter Beans, Cotija, Fresno Chiles
Our first snack was a hearty, filling affair, with the satisfying, savory heft of the two types of bean cut by a lemon-y, spicy edge, the toasted rice adding a great crunch to the mix.


Clams & Lardo Tacos [$14.00]
Of course we ordered the restaurant's now-signature taco first, which was, unsurprisingly, quite unlike any that I'd had before. The brine of the Manila clams was forcefully conveyed here, augmented by the potency of lardo to form a one-two punch that really called for the brightness of the onion-cilantro-serrano to even it all out. Nice textural element provided by the garlic chips, too.


Tamarindo [$11.00] | Tamarind Vodka, Amontillado Sherry, Fresh Lime, Tamarind Shrub, Tamarind Soda, Tamanzela Straw
Here, the bar pays homage to the ever-popular agua fresca tamarindo, a sweet, sour, spicy concoction that did a commendable job recalling the traditional drink.


Lemon-Pepper Chicken Chicharrones [$6.00] | Chicken Skins, Chicken Oysters, Lemon, Shishito
As advertised, chicharrones were loaded with the zippiness of lemon and pepper, though I would've liked 'em crispier. Even better were the chicken oysters, beautifully-textured examples just loaded with the deep, savory flavors of the bird.


Chorizo & Papas Tacos [$8.00]
You rarely go wrong with the combination of chorizo and potato, and this was no exception, with the spice and smoke of the sausage dutifully moderated by a healthy heaping of papas.


Borracho Gazpacho [$13.00] | Single Village Mezcal, Cherry Tomatoes, Celery, Micro Cilantro, Beet Escabeche, Strawberry
This next, Bloody Mary-esque cocktail really did convey the essence of gazpacho, giving up a complex of sour, spicy, vegetal nuances set over a base of heady mezcal.


Campechana Verde [$15.00] | Squid, Scallop, Snapper, Cucumber, Shrimp, Octopus, Tomatillo, Tostadas
The campechana was another highlight for me. A sort of spicy seafood cocktail, it brought together a fivesome of well-textured seafood with plenty of bright, acidic, minty flavors and a creeping, lingering heat that served as the perfect accent piece. Great crunch on those tostadas to boot.


Cebada [$3.50]
One of the non-alcoholic selections here is the horchata de cebada, a barley-based drink that delivered all the nutty, sweet, spicy flavors that you'd expect from the more common variant.


Cauliflower al Pastor [$10.00] | Pineapple, Cippolinis, Tortillas
I'm a noted cauliflower fiend, so this was naturally a must-order. Indeed, the vegetable came out imbued with all the deep spice and subtle sweetness that you'd look forward to in an al pastor. A fitting pairing to the substantial tortillas included in the dish, though I would've liked bigger pieces, in order to better appreciate the texture of the coliflor.


Bologna Tacos [$7.00]
Surprisingly, my favorite taco of the evening just might've been this bologna version, ostensibly inspired by Garcia's childhood eats. The housemade sausage conveyed a mouthwatering savor and spice, as well as a homey, old school sort of vibe that made it all the more effective.


Hoja Santa [$12.00] | Tequila Blanco, Hoja Santa, Lime, Cucumber, Sal de Camaron
This next cocktail was funky, real funky on the nose, probably due to the combination of hoja santa and "shrimp salt." Interestingly, on the palate I found it much more approachable, with your classic duo of cucumber and mint working well over a base of silver tequila.


Masa Ball Soup [$9.00] | Chicken Broth, Carrots, Herbs
I appreciate a good pun when it comes to food, and this next course did an admirable job recalling the goodness that one finds in a classic matzah ball soup. I found the balls pretty light, with a delicate savor and corn-y tinge to them, and well-matched to the broth, with its subtle spice and herbiness. A bit pozole-like, even.


Calabacitas Tacos [$7.00]
Calabacitas basically refers to a sautéed vegetable medley, and here it made for a superb taco filling, displaying a bevy of smoky, cheesy, yet summer-y flavors that made this one of my favorites of the meal.


Mole Rojo [$12.00] | Tequila Reposado, Red Mole Grenadine, Lime, Ancho Reyes
Here we had what easily amounted to the most intensely-flavored cocktail of the septet. Think deep, in-your-face notes of smoke, spice, salt, and savor, all set over the palpable booziness of the tequila.


Cabbage and Cueritos [$6.00] | Charred Red Cabbage, Pickled Pig's Skin
Bitter, crispy shards of cabbage made for a fitting complement to the unapologetic porkiness of those jiggly cueritos.


Beet Torta [$11.00] | Beet Milanesa, Pickled Beet, Escabeche, Iceberg
The vegetarian torta was a surprise hit. I was a big fan of the milanesa, the breading adding a wonderful crispness and savor to the beet. You also had the pickles and escabeche, which imparted a carefully placed acidity. Very neat.


De La Rosa [$11.00] | Spanish Peanut Infused Tequila Blanco, Orgeat, Rice Wine, Fresh Lime
This was clearly the most saccharine cocktail of the bunch, showing off aromas of sugary peanut butter, with more nuts and sweetness on the tongue, offset just a touch by the lime.


Carnitas Tacos [$8.00]
Carnitas made for the most typical taco filling tonight, though it certainly held its own against the more exotic preparations, with the toothsome, tender cuts of pork well matched to the zing of the onions, cilantro, and salsa verde.


B.S. Handshake [$6.00] | Tecate, Salt, Lime, Salsa Huichol
Our final cocktail was a michelada in essence, a blast of spicy, sweet, salty flavors cut by the light, water-y beer that is Tecate.


Churros [$7.00] | Chile de Arbol-Chocolate
Time for dessert. Churros were pretty much spot on, light, fluffy, crisp pastries with delightfully creamy interiors. I didn't even need the accompanying chocolate sauce.


Tres Leches Cake [$8.00] | Brown Sugar Meringue, Macadamia Nut
I'm a sucker for tres leches, and this was a solid example, arriving super saturated and luscious, with a sweetness that recalled Danish butter cookies (a favorite childhood treat of mine).

Garcia looks to be doing good things here, serving up food that's not really Mexican per se, but more like Chicano cuisine with a modern, LA slant. The result is a fun mash-up that largely works, and does justice to the old Mo-Chica space. It all makes me even more excited about Broken Spanish, which just grand opened this week. You can bet that I'll be making my way there soon enough.

Kaito Sushi (Encinitas, CA)

June 27, 2015, 7:45 pm

≫ Next: Ox & Son (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: B.S. Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA)

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Sushi Kaito
130 N El Camino Real, Encinitas, CA 92024
760.634.2746
Sat 04/25/2015, 07:45p-09:25p





When talking about San Diego sushi, Ota seems to be the one that gets the most mention. However, over the past several years, I've heard more and more about Kaito, and decided to give the place a shot. The restaurant is owned by the husband-and-wife team of Ryan Bertsch and Hiromi Kimura (they also run the nearby Sugar Coffee & Tea), and debuted at the start of 2005. Back then, the place was situated at another location about a block away, but moved to its current digs in April 2008. Along with the move came a revamped menu focused on edomae-style sushi, with the former Italian-ish items dropped altogether.

Meanwhile, helming the kitchen here is Kazuo Morita, a Tokyo-trained sushi chef since age 18 that's worked in the San Diego area since 1986. He's spent time at Tomiko in Encinitas, Nobu in Solana Beach (unrelated to Mr. Matsuhisa's places), and the old school Yae in Rancho Bernardo back in the day. Assisting Kaz-san is Ryoichi Iwata, more commonly referred to as "Joe," who also worked at Tomiko as well as Ichiban in San Diego.


Located in a strip mall, Kaito is about what you'd expect inside. There are a smattering of tables, but most of the space is taken up by the large-ish sushi bar, which seats around 14 diners.

Kaito's à la carte menu comprises your usual selection of apps, noodles, bowls, nigiri, and rolls. We were here, naturally, for the omakase though, which tonight ran $69 a head. To drink, there's your typical Japanese beers, as well as sake, though corkage is offered at $10 a bottle (we weren't charged, however, possibly because we shared with the Chefs).


I had two beers with me tonight, the first being the 2014 Fantôme Saison D'Erezée Printemps, a Belgian saison brewed with seasonal herbs. I found it rather interesting, with a distinct tinge of sweet spice on the nose, while on the palate, I got a light farmhouse funk leading to a very robust finish teeming with notes of fennel and oregano.


Quickly set before us was a vinegar-y salad of cucumber and onion, a bright, bracing combination that worked as quite the palate cleanser.


1: Aoyagi Sashimi
Kaz-san got us going with a delightful sashimi of orange clam. It was a fantastic mix of textures, both spongy and crisp, and a showcase of sweet, subtle salinity. Tasty alone, and even better with a dab of wasabi.


2: Nama Tako Sashimi & Age Tako
Raw octopus was satisfyingly chewy, with a nice snap and light brine to it--excellent with a bit of 'sabi. The raw preparation was joined by deep-fried suckers, which were wonderfully savory, with a consistency that blended both crunch and spongy.


3: Moriawase sashimi
The assorted sashimi platter brought out a variety of treats: a light, sticky snapper that really opened up with some soy; some well-textured, very sweet hotate; sticky, gelatinous squid rolls; creamy chutoro that really called for some soy and wasabi; some dense, clean amberjack; and finally, the firm, fishy sashimi that is kohada.


4: Age Mehikari
Next up was the so-called round greeneyes, which I'd had once before at Mori Sushi. Served fried and eaten whole, they were really quite delicious, conveying a deeply pleasurable savoriness and crunch.


My other beer was the Mikkeller Nelson Sauvignon, a Belgian golden ale brewed with Brettanomyces and aged three months in Austrian white wine barrels. I really liked this one, finding it expectedly funky and tart, but with a dry, vinous quality to it that really hit the mark.


5: Anago Tempura
Kaz-san then sent out a spot on rendition of tempura, this one featuring sea eel. Beautifully textured, with the saline essence of the anago well-matched to the tangy tentsuyu-like dipping sauce.


6: Maguro-Yamaimo Sushi
Tuna was paired with mucilaginous yamaimo mountain yam and zesty kaiware daikon sprouts in this somewhat seldom seen presentation of sushi.


7: Tako Sushi
Octopus nigiri was a perfect example of such, with the tako's excellent snap and mild savor pairing wonderfully with a hit of yuzukosho.


8: Umeshiso Yamaimo Hosomaki
Next were cut rolls featuring ume, shiso, and more of that mountain yam, a tart, minty presentation grounded by the rice and umami-rich relish of nori.


9: Tamago
A traditional closer, the egg was cool and sweet, with an interesting cut to boot.


Chef Kaz-san shows off one of the first knives he ever bought.

Unfortunately, this was no doubt the shortest omakase that I've ever had, not due to any fault of the restaurant, but because I was super full coming in thanks to the meal I had at Carnitas' Snack Shack earlier in the day (and the beer I had at the four breweries I visited). I had to cut things short sadly as a result, so I didn't really get to experience the full breadth of what the kitchen is capable of. What I did taste was very promising though, so I have no doubt that Kaito can stand as one of the top sushi joints in San Diego.

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Ox & Son (Santa Monica, CA)

June 30, 2015, 8:10 pm

≫ Next: Knuckle & Claw (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Kaito Sushi (Encinitas, CA)

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Ox and Son Restaurant
1534 Montana Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90403
310.829.3990
www.oxandson.com
Wed 05/13/2015, 08:10p-10:55p





Ox & Son is a place that's been getting quite a bit of buzz as of late. A new addition to the Santa Monica dining scene, the modern American eatery opened back in March, the latest project from Fork n' Awesome Hospitality Group. FNA was founded in 2014 by Mark Verge (213 Nightlife, Westside Rentals), along with Managing Partner Mark Mittleman and Executive Chef/Partner Brad Miller. Restaurants in the company's portfolio include Art's Table, OP Café, as well as the newish Ashland Hill, with Miller running the kitchens at both Ashland and at Ox. Joining him here are CdC Gabe Hatton (Inn of the Seventh Ray, Pinot Bistro) and GM Brandon Bernstein (Faith & Flower, Wilshire).

About the Chef: Bradley Miller grew up in Ottawa, IL, the son of Cindy Christmann and Gary "Ox" Miller, co-owner of Bill Polancic's Meat Market and the inspiration for Ox & Son's name. He spent considerable time at his father's butcher shop in his younger years and soon developed a keen interest in food. After finishing up at Ottawa Township High School in 2000, Miller started the Le Cordon Bleu program at Scottsdale Culinary Institute. During his tenure there, he worked for local caterer Michael's, and following graduation in 2002, interned at the banquet kitchen of the Arizona Biltmore in Phoenix. He eventually got a job at the hotel's Wright's Restaurant, but left in May 2004 to cook a brief stint as sous at Mount Rrainier's Paradise Inn. Miller stayed in Washington until that October, then came back to work at Wright's for a few more months.

He then moved to Latilla Restaurant at Boulders Resort & Spa, where he became sous chef and later CdC. It was during this time that Miller competed on Season 3 of Hell's Kitchen, where he was the seventh chef eliminated. In 2008, he left Arizona and moved out west, taking on a line cook gig at LA mainstay Patina. He left in early 2009 and found his first Executive Chef role at The Inn of The Seventh Ray in Topanga. While there, Miller served as a guest judge on Rachael vs. Guy: Celebrity Cook-Off and also partnered with senior living provider Five Star Quality Care to revamp the company's dining program. He decamped last year to join the team at FNA, his first project being Ashland Hill, which soft opened on January 30 in the old Wildflour Pizza space.


Ox & Son takes over the address of the middling Cafe Montana. It's a rather masculine space, with lots of wood and dark leathers, the olive-toned banquettes adding a touch of levity to the room.


The menu at Ox & Son is pleasantly compact and eclectic, presenting twists on the classics set in the tried-and-true cadence of small plates, large plates, sides, and dessert. To drink, think a small selection of wines and a beer list put together by Ashland Hill's Luke Tabit. Click for larger versions.


We opted for wine this evening, and commenced with some bubbly, the Rose, Latitude 50 - Sekt, Mosel, Germany [$40]. It was a nice start to things, with its crisp, dry minerality complemented by a subtle underpinning of strawberry and citrus.


Fresh Ricotta and Radish [$12.00] | olive oil, black pepper, fava bean, radish, seed bread
Things did not start well, as we endured a roughly 15-minute wait before even being offered water and amateurish service when it came to the bottle above. Perhaps as a result of that, the kitchen sent out a complementary course of ricotta. It was a winner, with the richness of the cheese beautifully paired with the potency of olive oil, the radish and fava providing an offsetting crunch and lightness. Superb spread over the bread, which was wonderful even by itself.


Benton's Ham and Corn Griddle Cake [$16.00] | maple butter, pickled onion
This was a playful, tasty dish, with the salty, hammy savor of the Benton's leading to the sweet, gritty finish of griddle cake in seamless fashion.


Uni & Eggs [$15.00] | soft egg, truffle salt, sea urchin, black bread
We couldn't resist this next dish of course, seeing as how it combined two of our favorite things. The uni was certainly not the prettiest we'd seen, coming out somewhat discolored and scraggly-looking. Taste-wise, the urchin wasn't offensive, though it wasn't as luxurious as we were hoping for. The egg was the dominant force here, the roe contributing just a whisper of salinity while the entire bite was overlayed by the musk of truffle.


Radicchio & Braised Cardoon [$14.00] | whipped goat cheese, celery, sunflower brittle, sumac & ash
Radicchio arrived crisp and properly bitter, its astringency balanced out by the tangy chèvre while sumac imparted a nice bit of piquancy to the mix.


Chicken Croquettes [$14.00] | fermented cabbage, smoked mayo, truffle powder
The croquettes were probably our favorite course of the evening, showing off a great depth of savor enhanced by the smoky mayo, all while the kraut gave up a counterbalancing acidity. I definitely could've used more of these guys.


Prime Beef Tartare [$16.00] | truffled egg, soy, onion, apple, sesame, brioche
I almost always have to get the tartar, and Ox & Son's was a worthy example, and one of the prettier preparations I've seen. The beef ate supple and springy, with a nice soy-augmented depth evened out by the Asian-y nuances of onion, apple, and sesame. Great over the paired brioche.


Our second wine was the Pinot Noir, Torii Mor 2011, Willamette Valley, OR [$48]. I was a bit ambivalent on this one. Imagine aromas of tart, red fruit and pepper, and flavors of more berry, earth, and spice, with a noticeable acidity.


Sticky Pig Cheeks & Black Rice [$27.00] | black vinegar glaze, roasted turnip, coconut black rice, charred leek
In the first of our larger plates, pork came tender and deeply flavored, enhanced by the black vinegar while turnips and leeks added a proper amount of countervailing astringency. However, I found the rice overly sugary, as it tended to overwhelm the cheeks here.


Chicken Fried Duck Confit [$25.00] | shaved pickled vegetables, house kimchi slaw, red chili & local honey sauce
I couldn't not order something described as chicken fried duck confit, but the bird didn't live up to its promise. There was a lovely crispness on the duck, but flavor-wise, it just seemed one-note. I really appreciated the slaw and pickles--their acidity, their crunch, their funk--but the star of the show underwhelmed.


O&S Burger [$20.00] | 8oz burger with raclette cheese, arugula, pickled onion, truffle aioli, kennebec fries (yes you want fries with that - lime mayo and spiced ketchup)
The signature burger appeared with a medium-rare patty that was appropriately beefy, though things did veer salty, due largely to the generous portion of Raclette I imagine. The arugula and pickled onion did help in evening things out though, and the fries worked well enough.


Mushroom Parmesan Cavatelli [$23.00] | pea tendril, fava bean, parmesan, lemon confit
For our final savory, cavatelli was pretty well-textured, and I liked brightness of the peas and favas, though I wanted more lushness, more depth to the dish. I wanted the Parm and mushrooms to shine.


Coffee Cake & Butterscotch [$12.00] | shattered meringue, brown butter, smoked salt, cinnamon ice cream
Dessert was definitely a highlight for me, with its masterful interplay of sweet and spicy from the butterscotch and cinnamon, all backed by notes of coffee while the salt added a fantastic smoky tinge to the dish. Very well put together, and great textures, too.

The night was a touch uneven. The cooking's got some interesting twists, some playfulness, which I like, and indeed, many of the dishes were realized fully in this regard (e.g. the ricotta, croquettes, tartar, and that superb dessert). However, more plates than I wanted didn't really hit the mark. I do think there's a lot of potential here though, so hopefully things get tightened up a bit.

Knuckle & Claw (Los Angeles, CA)

July 3, 2015, 3:00 pm

≫ Next: Plate by Plate 2015 Ticket Giveaway

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Knuckle and Claw Restaurant
3112 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
323.407.6142
www.knuckleandclaw.com
Sat 05/02/2015, 03:00p-04:45p





One of the newest, more promising players in the lobster roll game has gotta be Silver Lake's Knuckle & Claw. The place is the work of business partners/lovers Nikki Booth and Chloe Dahl (granddaughter of writer Roald Dahl), who first started slangin' their rolls over at the Beverly Glen and Brentwood farmers' markets last year. They eventually launched a Kickstarter at the end of November, and wound up raising nearly $77,000 in a month. The restaurant debuted at the start of March, aiming to serve seafood-centric rolls with minimal filler, ostensibly made using product flown in daily from Maine.


The site of the old Speedworkz bike shop was transformed by local firm Office42 to a subtly New England-y affair. There's some seating at the bar inside, but more in the patio and the area out front.


The Knuckle & Claw menu is refreshingly compact, with just four types of rolls in full or mini sizes joined by two sandwiches, two chowders, and some sweets. Click for a larger version.


We snuck in our own bottles for BYOB purposes, and got things going with the 2013 Great Divide Peach Grand Cru, a Belgian-style ale with peaches. It was a decent brew, though not particularly notable, smelling of Belgian-y yeast, spice, and booze, while the taste gave up more spice and malt, with the fruit coming in strong toward the close.


Maine Lobster - Mini [$9.50]
Here we see Knuckle & Claw's signature roll, made sans tail with a dab of mayo, a sprinkling of seasoning, and a dash of lemon butter, all served on a buttery toasted brioche bun. It was a tasty rendition indeed: sweet, soft and buttery, with the bread serving as a great counterpoint to the meat. I did appreciate the straightforward lobster-y goodness here, with the various accompaniments complementing but not overwhelming the seafood.


Our next bottle was the 2014 Block 15 Giving Thanks, a mix of Belgian-style dubbel and strong ales matured 11-28 months in brandy, bourbon, and rum barrels, with Lactobacillus added. This was pretty neat, a complex beer with an interplay of vinous, oaky, and dark fruit notes underscored by a pleasant booziness, bitterness, and chocolate-y malt, the whole thing finishing tart.


Knuckle Sandwich [$20.00]
The Knuckle Sandwich was basically a grilled cheese with the addition of lobster, made using Cotswold cheese. It was a hefty, luxurious sandwich, with tons of cheese and butter on the forefront. I thought that the lobster still shined despite all the rich flavors at play, though some of my dining companions disagreed.


Bacon Clam [$8.00]
The bacon clam chowder was a joy to eat, coming out hot and savory, with a great interaction between the brine of the clams and the hearty potatoes, the soup finishing with a delightful kick of salt from the bacon.


A collaborative brew, the 2014 Brasserie De Blaugies/Hill Farmstead La Vermontoise was a saison made with spelt and Amarillo hops. I found this very, very light, with some bright, yeasty nuances joined by a base of tropical fruit and spice.


Dungeness Crab - Mini [$11.50]
I liked the Dungeness even better than the lobster, a super sweet, saline roll that really highlighted the interaction between the crab and the buttery bun.


Getting into something different now, we had here the Reverend Nat's Tepache, which was a "cider" made with Costa Rican pineapple, Michoacán piloncillo, and a variety of spices. I found it deeply sweet and spicy, with loads of pineapple on the nose and lots of intensity on the palate. We were instructed by the bottle to use this in a shandy, and indeed, mixing it with the saison above really did help even out the flavors.


Grilled Cheese [$8.00]
The traditional grilled cheese was classically satisfying, the cheese melding nicely with the toasty bread.


Next to imbibe was a totally different type of saison, the 2014 Smog City Saison Contraire, dry-hopped and infused with Brett. For me this was too hoppy aroma-wise, and on the palate, I got lots of dank, dusty, almost weed-like flavors intermingled with more hops. Not a huge fan.


Maine Shrimp - Mini [$5.00]
Shrimp was cool and creamy to the bite, with its mild flavors augmented by an extra helping of Booth's special seasoning.


Chipotle Corn [$7.00]
I'm usually not big into corn chowders, but this was superb: not too sweet, with the corn apparent but moderated by an undercurrent of chipotle heat.


The 2015 Jester King Gotlandsdricka was a Viking-inspired brew, a recreation of an ancient farmhouse style brewed with birchwood-smoked malt, juniper, sweet gale, and rye. It was a polarizing type of beer, with loads of smoke on the nose, and a flavor profile that alternated between more smoke, tartness, and a strong blue cheese-esque funk.


Blue Crab - Mini [$6.00]
Compared to the Dungeness, the blue crab was a bit more in-your-face, with less of that subtle sweetness and more of a deep brine intermingled with palpable amounts of seasoning.


The Mikkeller Citra Imperial India Pale Ale and Mikkeller Simcoe Imperial India Pale Ale were drunk back-to-back for comparative purposes. The Citra I found pine-y on the nose, with your expected hoppy, juicy citrus notes coming through on the tongue. I definitely preferred it to the Simcoe, which had a darker, much milder aroma, and a maltier palate without all the pleasant citrus notes.


Whoopie Pie Bar [$4.00]
Desserts at Knuckle & Claw comprise a handful of candy bars. The first was Hammond's Whoopie Pie, which showcased a nice dark chocolate shell around a creamy, almost marshmallow-y filling.


Vineyard Bar [$10.00]
State Road's Vineyard Bar was a bit more interesting, a combination of delightfully crunchy toffee crumbles and milk chocolate.


Our final beer was the 2014 Avery Tweak, a four-month bourbon barrel-aged stout with coffee added. Think boozy, with a savoriness to it, joined by light fruit, coffee, and a particular astringency that didn't sit quite well with me. Not too much barrel character. Not a fan.


Menemsha Bar [$10.00]
Last up was State Road's Menemsha Bar with dark chocolate, salted peanuts, and chocolate-covered pretzels. You got your classic dark chocolate flavors here, but with an additional hit of salt from the pretzel.

We left Knuckle & Claw pretty content, with not much to complain about except for the sometimes inexplicably slow waits for the food. Their rolls were largely spot on, and the rest of food hit the mark as well. A quaint, casual seafooder that's worth checking out.

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Given the lack of true dessert over at K&C, we headed on over to the newly-opened ICDC following our meal. It's a new shop next door to BLD from Neal/Amy Knoll Fraser and their longtime pastry chef Mariah Swan. The name's an acronym for "Ice Cream, Doughnuts, and Coffee," and that's exactly what they serve.


Guinness Chip & Tangerine Vanilla Sherbet + Waffle Cone [$5.00 + $1.00]
My favorite here was the Guinness Chip, which paired a classic ice cream goodness with some superb stout-y notes toward the finish. The Tangerine Vanilla Sherbet was also on point, recalling an orange Creamsicle.


Grapefruit Campari + Curried Sugar [$4.00 + $3.00]
Donut duties were handled by a wonderfully bittersweet Grapefruit Campari and a subtle Curried Sugar.


Strawberry Rhubarb Sorbet + Waffle Cone [$3.50 + $1.00]
The Strawberry Rhubarb Sorbet also delivered with its intense, super jammy, super focused berry fruit flavors.


The Mission Hard Root Beer was a naturally pairing given all this ice cream. You had all your classic spicy root beer flavors here, but joined by a marked booziness on the back end. A fun one.

Plate by Plate 2015 Ticket Giveaway

July 5, 2015, 5:43 pm

≫ Next: Lunchbox by Playground (Santa Ana, CA)

≪ Previous: Knuckle & Claw (Los Angeles, CA)

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On the evening of Saturday, July 25th, Project by Project will be hosting its 13th annual tasting benefit, Plate by Plate. PbP is a national 501(c)(3) non-profit centered around issues relating to the Asian-American community. Each year, the group chooses a particular theme to focus on, and partners with a charitable organization in that space. This year's theme is housing, and the partner is the Center for the Pacific Asian Family, a local non-profit that provides shelter and support to victims of domestic violence. As always, the tasting will showcase the talents of some of LA's top restaurants, as well as beverages from a variety of leading purveyors. After a successful event at the Petersen Automotive Museum in 2014, this year's benefit will be held at Downtown's California Market Center. To get an idea of what Plate by Plate is like, be sure to check out my report from last year's event.

.EAT(31). A-Frame Barrel & Ashes Bestia BierBeisl Imbiss The Church Key The District by Hannah An Drago Centro Faith & Flower Fundamental LA Hamasaku KazuNori Little Sister Maximiliano Mills + Company Moruno The Park's Finest Patina Patina Pastry Peking Tavern Petty Cash Picca Pine & Crane Quenelle Saint Martha Scopa Italian Roots Scratch Bar / Gadarene Swine Short Cake Sotto Starry Kitchen Terrine Whole Foods Market

.VIP(2). Pour Vous / CNS Imports Republique   .DRINK(24). 101 Cider House 1886 at The Raymond Asahi Beekeeper Cellars Bird Pick Tea & Herb Boba 7 The Bruery Bundaberg Brewed Drinks CNS Imports Cognoscenti Coffee Firestone Walker Flying Goat Cellars Honest Tea Icelandic Glacial Kawaba Ketel One Lagunitas Pacific International Sake Palmina Phantom Carriage Silk Road Stone Brewing Teaonic Ventura Limoncello

Tickets are currently on sale. However, I'm also giving away a pair of GA tickets valued at $150 each. To win, here's what needs to go down: On either Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter (pick one), post something about this giveaway, for example, "I just entered for a chance to win two tickets to @ProjectbyProjectLA's Plate by Plate! Check out www.eventbee.com/v/platebyplate2015." Be sure to include the Eventbee link and the proper PbP tag (@ProjectbyProjectLA for Facebook, @pbpla for Instagram, @pbpla for Twitter). Leave a comment here with: (a) your full name, (b) an email address to reach you, and (c) a link to your post above (be sure to make it a public one). Please submit entries by noon PDT on July 8th. We'll select the best one (hopefully you can come up with something more creative than my example above) and announce the winner Friday. Good luck!

Lunchbox by Playground (Santa Ana, CA)

July 6, 2015, 6:10 pm

≫ Next: Elite (Monterey Park, CA)

≪ Previous: Plate by Plate 2015 Ticket Giveaway

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Lunchbox at 4th Street Market
201 E 4th St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
www.lunchboxdtsa.com
Sat 05/09/2015, 06:10p-08:25p





Jason Quinn of Playground fame is continuing his dominance of the Downtown Santa Ana dining scene with Lunchbox, a three-in-one lunch-and-dinner concept situated at DTSA's 4th Street Market. Lunchbox debuted back in February, and is composed of a food stall trio--burger joint Wagyu Chuck, fried chicken joint PFC, and khao soi joint Noodle Tramp--as well as an adjacent bar and retail shop.


Above, we see the individual menus for the three Lunchbox restaurants. Note, however, that you can actually order any dish from any one of the stalls. Click for larger versions.


I'm not sure if BYOB is allowed here, but I went ahead and brought some bottles anyway (the setup here makes it quite easy). Up first was the newly-released 2015 The Bruery Imperial Or Xata, a blonde ale made with rice, lactose, cinnamon, and vanilla beans, basically the brewery's take on horchata. If you recall, I had the regular version of the beer at Pok Pok Phat Thai a while back. This Reserve Society-exclusive "imperial" version was brewed with more malt and more spice, making for a noticeably more satisfying beer. It was creamier, richer overall, with a great base of rice-y flavors accented by delicious sweet spice.


Khao Soi with Wagyu Brisket [$10.00]
Let's kick things off with Noodle Tramp's beef khao soi, a type of noodle soup popular in the northern part of Thailand and Laos. It's a dish that I first fell in love with at Norwalk's Renu Nakorn, and Quinn's version was a worthwhile homage to this little known classic, comprising boiled and fried egg noodle, peanuts, fried shallots, red onion, pickled cabbage, bean sprouts, cilantro, and lime, all in a coconut curry broth. The beef itself came thin-sliced, tender, and appropriately beefy, a tasty pairing to the heady flavors of the coconut-rich broth while the various veggies imparted the necessary lightness and brightness to the soup. Great textures, too.



Triple Burger [$12.00]
Moving on now to Wagyu Chuck, here we see Quinn's take on an In-N-Out-style burger, made, unsurprisingly, with house-ground wagyu chuck, as well as a sponge dough bun from the Chef's bakery Dough Exchange. It was a damn fine burger, just trashy enough and with a delectable balance of beef, char, cheese, and onion that made for some deeper, more robust flavors compared to its fast food inspiration.


Another new release was the 2015 The Bruery L'deracola, a dark ale brewed with spices and lime that's meant to mimic the flavors of cola. It was pretty good actually, a real pleasant surprise. They did a great job conveying the essence of the soda, presenting all the mouth-tingling spicy aspects of the drink, but without all the associated sugar. I appreciated how the beer captured the light, effervescent mouthfeel of cola to boot.


Eight Piece Fried Chicken [$16.00]
Playground Fried Chicken is not the same as the Uncle Lou's fried chicken typically served at Playground. Instead of the vinegariness of that preparation, the bird here is dusted with Southwestern-ish seasoning, giving things a sweet spice. It makes for a fitting pairing with the crispy, juicy chicken, and I liked it even more with a dip in the accompanying lime/agave/jalapeño sauce.


Young Blood's Wings [$7.00]
I don't quite get the name behind these wings from Noodle Tramp, but they were tasty enough, crunchy examples with some deep umami flavors joined by just a bit of sweetness.


Here we have Recess, a bar by Playground that offers up six beers, six wines, and six cocktails, all on tap, in addition to a selection of house-made sodas. Running the program here, unsurprisingly, is Playground Beverage Director Jarred Dooley.


Bravo Chili Baked Potato Fries [$5.00]
Hearty chunks of baked potato formed a perfect base for Wagyu Chuck's well-spiced chili, beautifully accented by the sprinklings of cheese and onion up top. A delectable take on your classic chili fries.


My third and final Bruery beer was the Reserve-only 2015 Bruery Terreux Sour in the Rye with Peaches, a sour rye ale aged a year in oak barrels, with local peaches added. The fruit was subtle on this one. Rather, I got a lot of rustic, farmhouse, tart flavors commingled with rye spice, the juicy peaches coming through more toward the close.


Coleslaw [$3.00]
PFC's slaw was light and bright, with a nice crunch from what I believe were bell peppers.


Khao Soi with Chicken [$8.00]
The chicken version of Noodle Tramp's khao soi was a touch sweeter it seemed, with the tender, hearty chunks of bird well-matched to the disparate tastes and textures present, the bean sprouts working particularly well here.


Following was another rye beer, the 2013 Perennial Barry Rye, fermented with blackberries. Again, the tangy spice of the rye was the star here, with an undercurrent of dark fruit peeking through only occasionally.



Playground Burger [$14.00]
And now we come to the signature Playground Burger, a "secret" menu item at Wagyu Chuck. I'd had it before, and it still stands as one of my favorites of all time: a thick puck of wagyu-Angus blend, cooked suitably rare, Fontina and Gruyère cheeses, maple-bourbon caramelized onions, and iceberg, all dressed with a delightfully tangy mustard-mayo. It was a rich, robust, pure expression of beef, and as good as the standard Wagyu Chuck burger was, this one clearly surpassed it.


Skillet Cornbread + Bravo Chili [$5.00 + $3.00]
Cornbread is made daily at Dough Exchange as well, and came out wonderfully textured and just sweet enough. The chili worked well enough here, though I much preferred it on the potatoes above.


With my next beer, the 2000 Brouwerij Het Anker Cuvée Van De Keizer Blauw, I took things back, way back. A 15-year-old Belgian dark ale, this one showed its age, tasting almost of sherry with its mix of dark fruit and oxidative qualities.


Delicious' Mustard Wings [$5.00]
Noodle Tramp's mustard wings came out just as crisp as their "Bloody" brethren, and definitely lived up to the mustard part.


Loaded Baked Potato Fries [$5.00]
As good as the chili potato fries above were, these were even better, an utterly satisfying combination of cheese, bacon, and scallion that gratified in a base sort of way.


The sole stout of the night was the 21-month bourbon barrel-aged 2013 Central Waters Sixteen, brewed to commemorate the brewery's 16th anniversary. I didn't find this one particularly impressive. I got pretty much your typical roasty, chocolate flavors, with a decent amount of boozy bourbon character and not much else.


Chipotle Potato Salad [$3.00]
PFC's potato salad was a nice change of pace, a creamy, herby example with a punchiness from the chipotle.


Summer Cold Ramen [$10.00]
A seasonal special at Noodle Tramp was this cold ramen dish with cucumbers, red onion, tomatoes, pickled ginger, beech mushrooms, bean sprouts, and scallions, all dressed with yuzu/soy/honey. It was a cool, refreshing, summer-y sort of noodle dish, with some bold, bright, zesty flavors underpinned by a persistent bitterness.


Last to drink were the 1997 & 2006 Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Barleywines. They key here was to compare and contrast the two. I started with the younger beer, which had a distinct cherried note on the nose, while taste-wise, I got plenty of malt and chocolate, with a distinct hoppy finish. I preferred the '97 though, which had an even sweeter bouquet, and tasted more of dark fruit, but with still a tinge of bitterness.


For dessert, we headed over to Torch S'More Co and Front Porch Pops and purchased this spread.


And that wasn't even enough. Chunk 'n Chip was next.



Satiated, we wandered over to Honor Roll, the schmancy retail shop also run by the folks at Playground. In addition to selling a variety of artisanal-type products, it's also home to Electric City Butcher and the storefront for Dough Exchange.

We had a fun time at Lunchbox, which serves as a key anchor for the burgeoning 4th Street Market. The food provides a casual taste of what's available at Playground proper, and in fact, if any of the adjacent eateries should fold, it might be fun to have Quinn and company introduce even more specialist stalls to the space: Pasta bar? A lobster roll spot? Fish and chips? Bánh mì? The possibilities are endless.

Elite (Monterey Park, CA)

July 9, 2015, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Tacos Punta Cabras (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: Lunchbox by Playground (Santa Ana, CA)

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Elite Restaurant
700 S Atlantic Blvd, Monterey Park, CA 91754
626.282.9998
www.elitechineserestaurant.com
Wed 05/20/2015, 07:00p-10:05p





Ever since debuting in February 2007, Elite has pretty much lived up to its moniker as one of the top Chinese restaurants in Los Angeles. The place is well-known for its cartless dim sum offerings, and has actually been on my to-try list for a while now. I finally made it out here recently, but for dinner, thanks to an invitation from a private beer tasting group to join in an exploration of sour ales.


Elite takes over the old New Concept space, which has been revamped with some fancy wallpaper and schmancy curtains. The overall effect is quite nice, though the room is considerably smaller than that of many of its competitors.



Above, we see Elite's dinner menu, an expectedly expansive carte featuring all your favorite Hong Kong-style seafood stylings. To drink, there's not much worth talking about save for a few wines, so best to BYOB here. No idea what corkage was, but it was comped, as it should be given that we spent four figures. Click for larger versions.


2014 De Garde The Lucy: Wild ale aged in oak barrels with Muscat grapes, my first beer from De Garde.
S: Funky and distinctly vinous; I believe one of my dining companions likened the nose to "7 Up," interestingly enough.
T: Not as tart as the smell would imply; very smooth, refreshing, with a palpable oakiness to it.


Crooked Stave Petite Sour with Hibiscus & Cinnamon: Mixed fermentation ale aged in oak with hibiscus and cinnamon, my first taste from the brewery.
S: Tart, floral, sweet 'n' spicy as expected.
T: Funky cherry character with oak and a mustiness to it, joined by restrained nuances of cinnamon toward the end.


Crooked Stave Nightmare on Brett: Dark sour ale aged in Leopold Bros whiskey barrels.
S: Quite dank; lactic and funky, with a trace of dark fruit.
T: Smooth yet boozy, with chocolate notes commingled with influences from the barrel aging.


De Garde Imperial Blackberry Bu: Berliner weisse style ale aged in oak barrels with blackberries.
S: Really funky, vegetal, with an almost blue cheese-esque earthiness; the nose caught me off guard.
T: Again, more of that lactic quality, over a base of delicate fruit, with a lingering close imbued with a surprising savoriness.


2015 The Rare Barrel Supermassive: Dark sour aged in oak barrels with blackberries and black currants and fermented with Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus, my first beer from TRB.
S: Massive amounts of oxidative fruit over a backbone of sweetness and acidity.
T: Tart and dark, with distinct chocolate and spice flavors; I got a lot more currant than blackberry here.


2015 Alpine Kiwi Herman: Brewed with kiwi and strawberry then aged in wine barrels, this one had been on my to-tick list ever since it was released earlier this year.
S: Deliciously juicy yet sour aromas of kiwi that almost gave off a stone fruit-like richness and depth.
T: On the palate, I got much more of a strawberry presence, joined by further thrusts of citrus, wine barrel, and acidity; super refreshing.


2015 The Rare Barrel Dubious Affair: Dark sour aged in oak barrels with black currant, Italian plum, and apricot.
S: Dark and earthy, with an almost rye-like spice to it all.
T: Lighter than I'd imagined, and smooth, with a glorious amalgam of fruit flavors countered by a great acidity.


2013 The Lost Abbey Duck Duck Gooze: A blend of 1-, 2- and 3-year-old ales aged in French oak red wine barrels; another beer that I'd been wanting to try for ages.
S: Very funky, with some lactic qualities commingled with bright notes of citrus.
T: Milder than the smell; smooth, and very, very well balanced, with a juicy-yet-puckering quality to it; acidic, grassy, lemony, delish.


New Glarus Wisconsin Belgian Red: Wisconsin ale brewed with Montmorency cherries; yes, so some non-sours snuck into the tasting as well.
S: Tons, and I mean tons of dark cherry aromas, cut by just a smidge of tanginess.
T: Massive amounts of sugary cherry flavor, but with a subtle sour edge to keep it from becoming too cloying.


2012 Rodenbach Caractère Rouge: Ale with cranberries, raspberries, and sour cherries aged two years in oak vats; this was Batch 2 (I'd sampled Batch 4 last year at Black Hogg).
S: Super smooth, super delicate; sweet-n-sour with an oaky tint to it.
T: Again, superbly balanced, with dark fruit notes backed by the presence of oak; clean.


2014 Cantillon Fou' Foune: Two-year-old lambic with apricots, and probably the beer that I was personally the most excited about tonight.
S: Ridiculously clean, pure apricot aromas accented by citrus and funk; excellent.
T: Fruit forward and utterly refreshing and dry; just tart and earthy enough; I found this delightfully easy-drinking and living up to the hype.


2011 Cascade Bourbonic Plague: A blend of spiced porters aged in bourbon and wine barrels for 18 months before aging on dates and spices for an additional 12 months.
S: Rather boozy, with malty, chocolate-y notes blended with dark fruit and spice.
T: Deep and dark, with plenty of booze and massive amounts of barrel character cut by a bit of sourness.


2014 Jester King Equipoise: Not quite a sour, but a farmhouse ale brewed with ginger salt and tarragon, refermented with cantaloupe, done in collaboration with Chef Paul Qui.
S: Herby and spicy, with a savory accent.
T: Again, more herbs, salt, and savoriness, joined by a pleasant tartness but not much cantaloupe.


Australia King Crab [$38.00/pound]
Yes, we went through over a dozen bottles before the meal even commenced, but boy did the food get off to an impressive start. What we had here was no doubt one of the tastiest preparations of king crab that I'd ever experienced, the meat coming to us tender, buttery, and oh-so sweet, with a fantastic garlicky edge to it all.


2013 Cascade Manhattan NW: A blend of spiced blond quads, aged in bourbon barrels with sour pie cherries and apricot noyaux (kernels).
S: Sour cherry fruit, joined by spice and whiskey barrel character.
T: Surprising, with a vegetal, almost fennel-like bent to it over an undercurrent of tartness.


Browsed Baby Pigeon [$14.80/each]
Squab was better than most, nicely crisp in terms of skin, and loaded with deep, savory flavors and sweet spice.


2015 The Lost Abbey Veritas 015: Blended and oak aged American sour with apricots, nectarines, and peaches; definitely another highlight of the tasting for me.
S: Super juicy and multifaceted stone fruit aromas underscored by a lacto funk.
T: Tartness initially, transitioning to a base of complex stone fruit flavors and a finish of oak; dry, refreshing, superbly well-balanced, a standout.


Pork Chop w/ Salt & Pepper [$10.80]
Excellent crispness and spice on the outside, with the tender, savory pork really shining through. A perfect rendition of the dish.


2015 Sante Adairius Farmhouse Noir: A dark saison fermented in oak; Batch 2; the first of three beers that I contributed to the tasting.
S: Tangy and dark, with an acidic, almost suanmei-like quality.
T: Malty and grainy, with chocolate, funk, and a fun cola character; vinous on the close.


Dry Stir Fried Green Beans
One of my staples when it comes to Chinese veggies, the Szechuan classic of gan bian siji dou was spot on, the green beans coming out well-textured and perfectly paired with the savoriness of the pork.


2015 Sante Adairius Cask 200: Batch 5 of SARA's solera-style saison; another standout of the night.
S: Barnyard with delectable notes of juicy tropical fruit.
T: Wonderfully integrated flavors in a dry package with a balanced tartness and earthiness; really easy to drink and superbly put-together.


Australia Lobster [$25.00/pound (est)]
Lobster hit the mark as well, with the supple, snappy meat really meshing well with the curry flavors at play (which I was afraid might overwhelm the delicate flavors of the crustacean).


2014 The Bruery Blue Bbls: Sour stout and imperial stout aged in bourbon barrels with blueberries added; a Hoarders-exclusive bottle that I'd had before at Stir Market.
S: A mish-mash of stout-y characteristics and juicy berry fruit.
T: Malty, roasty, oaky, and sweet, but cut by the tart, vinous qualities of blueberry.


Roasted Whole Suckling Pig [$129.00]
A (half) whole suckling pig was something that I'd actually never had before at a Chinese restaurant. I thoroughly enjoyed it though, with its crunchy, crackling skin, supple, juicy flesh, and wonderfully porky, yet refined flavors satisfying in the utmost manner.


2015 Upland Vinosynth Red: A 50-50 blend of wine-barrel aged sour ale and bourbon barrel-aged Flanders Red with Catawba wine grapes added; my second beer.
S: Musty and vinous, with the Catawba doing a nice job peeking through the barrel.
T: A very balanced presentation of wine nuances and an earthy tartness, all leading to a lingering woodiness.


Black Pepper Beef with Snap Peas
You can't go wrong with this, the tender, well-spiced shards of beef really working hand in hand with the bright, crunchy counterpoint from the peas.


Brouwerij Van Honsebrouck St. Louis Gueuze Fond Tradition: A classic Belgian gueuze.
S: I got a bracing sourness in the aroma, finished by an odd metallic character.
T: Sharply funky, with a savoriness that got stronger on the close and made the beer somewhat disconcerting. My least favorite of the night.


Seafood Chow Mein [$12.80]
A prototypical, but spot on rendition of chow mein, with a great crispness on the noodles and the seafood coming out distinct and well-cooked (i.e. not overdone).


2014 Jester King Vie en Rose: Wild ale fermented with Brettanomyces and raspberries.
S: Super tart and jammy, with just a whisper of farmhouse; delish.
T: Just as tasty as the nose; tart fruit at the forefront, but still dry and crisp, with a touch of grain.


Chicken w/Three Cup Style [$12.80]
A wonderful preparation of sanbeiji, with the chicken coming out tender yet slight crisp, its deep, savory, spicy flavors offset by the trio of crunchy veggies. I just wanted to keep eating.


2015 The Rare Barrel Wise Guise: Blend of Ensorcelled (dark sour ale aged in oak barrels with raspberries) and golden sour, fermented with Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus.
S: Surprisingly weak, with just a smidge of raspberry.
T: Much, much tarter than the nose at first, with the back end going toward darker, mustier, oakier flavors.


Yeung Chow Fried Rice
Yangzhou fried rice was a commendable example of the dish: well-textured, comforting, and with a delightful bit of creeping heat.


2013 The Bruery Wanderer: A dark sour ale aged in barrels with blackberries and cherries, which I'd had not long ago at Kinjiro.
S: Lighter than before, with subdued notes of tart berry.
T: More sour cherry; an oxidative edge over a backbone of malt.


Beef with Rice Cakes
I quite liked the chewy, gelatinous texture on the rice cakes here, which did a nice job alongside the satisfyingly savory cuts of beef.


2014 Modern Times Palace of Cracked Heads: An 11-month red wine barrel-aged sour, aged for another 5 months with nectarines.
S: Dark, deep stone fruit aromas, without too much funk.
T: Again, very apparent notes of nectarine, countered by a palpable sourness; a much weightier beer compared to the Foune or V015 above.


Vermicelli w/Singapore Style [$10.80]
Singapore-style noodles were on point, the curry present, but not overpowering. Great snap on the shrimp, too, and I especially appreciated the lightness imparted by the veggies.


2015 Highland Park The Achiever: A growler of IPA somehow got thrown into the mix.
S: Substantially hoppy, pine-y, with some citrus mixed in.
T: Nice, dark, with an almost bracing bitterness along with some juicy tropical fruit notes.


2014 Jester King Nocturn Chrysalis: Barrel-aged sour refermented with Marion blackberries from Oregon; my third and final beer of the tasting.
S: Tons of band-aid funk alongside the Marionberry.
T: Sour and dry, with a strong underpinning of tart fruit and some oak on the back end.


2015 Highland Park Cherry Spazz: Sour wheat beer fermented with Lactobacillus and multiple types of Brettanomyces yeast, aged with Montmorency cherries.
S: Really funky, dank, with some fruit to brighten things up.
T: I get lots of bandaid here, back and forth with tart cherry.


Westbrook Mexican Cake: Imperial stout aged on cocoa nibs, vanilla beans, cinnamon, and habaneros; gotta end with something sweet right?
S: Big hit of chocolate, overarched by traces of sweet, aromatic spice--nice!
T: Follows the nose; legitimately sweet, with massive chocolate notes and a tinge of heat.


The bottle graveyard. I sampled 28 of the 29 beers (forgot to taste one of the New Glarus'), and I'd have to say that my favorites were the Kiwi Herman, Dubious Affair, Duck Duck Gooze, Fou' Foune, Veritas 015, Cask 200, and Mexican Cake. We had so much liquid left over though, such a shame. I hope the staff at least got to drink some with their family meal at the end of the night.

In terms of beer, this was a pretty fantastic evening, with a great array of sours of various proclivities, including several bottles that'd been on my "to drink" list for years. Food-wise, Elite definitely hit the mark as well, delivering some of the tastiest Hong Kong-style Chinese that I'd had in a long while. Gotta get back for that dim sum...

Tacos Punta Cabras (Santa Monica, CA)

July 12, 2015, 7:40 pm

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Tacos Punta Cabras
2311 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90404
310.917.2244
www.tacospuntacabras.com
Tue 05/19/2015, 07:40p-08:30p



A yearning for Westside tacos brought us to Tacos Punta Cabras, which comes to us courtesy of longtime Los Angeles area chefs Josh Gil and Daniel Snukal, the duo known for underground dining series Supper Liberation Front and their work with Secret Event Services. Named after "Goat Point," one of the chefs' favorite Baja surf spots, the restaurant opened back in February 2013, a super casual joint serving seafood-focused tacos, tostadas, cocktails, and the like.

About the Chefs: A California native, Joshua Gil got into food at a young age, helping his mother craft Mexican meals in the family kitchen. A self-taught chef, he first began making a name for himself at the Hotel Laguna in Laguna Beach as CdC. However, his first major exposure to the LA dining scene came in 2005, when he took the reins over at the longstanding Joe's in Venice, which even scored a Michelin star under his watch.

Gil stayed there until October 2007 (he was replaced by Michael Bryant), then transitioned to the Jonathan Club, where he resided until May 2009. He co-founded the Supper Liberation Front at the start of 2010, and later that year, it was announced that he'd be partnering up with Guelaguetza's Bricia Lopez to launch an Oaxacan eatery called Mitla in Palms (in a space that once held an outpost of Guelaguetza, now a Beard Papa's).

That plan ultimately fell through however, and Gil ended up at the Inn of the Seventh Ray in Topanga. In December 2011, he landed at Laurent Tourondel's WeHo outpost of BLT Steak (which turned into Rare by Drai's, also closed) as Executive Chef, and later moved to Herringbone at the Mondrian last April, replacing Anthony Sinsay.

Dan Snukal, meanwhile, hails from Canada, and is also a self-taught chef. He started his LA career as a caterer and private chef before launching 3 on Fourth in the old Rocca space in Santa Monica (now the site of West 4th & Jane). The restaurant was a partnership with his brother Joshua, and opened in May 2006 as an "international tapas" sort of place, blending American, European, and Japanese influences.

It never really hit its stride though, and shuttered in March 2009. Snukal later underwent a series of stages, including stints with Masayoshi Takayama, Pierre Gagnaire (both in Las Vegas and in Europe), and Hiroyuki Urasawa right here in Beverly Hills. From there, he went to work for Ludovic Lefebvre at LudoBites, and also cooked at Obika Mozzarella Bar.


Inside, it's a small, beachy, counter-ordering affair, apropos for the concept at hand.


Fish taco [$3.75]
Of course, we had to start with a fish taco, done up here with housemade crema, slaw, and a lime vinaigrette. It was pretty classic at its core, and tasty too, with the crisp, yet tender fish pairing swimmingly with the bright crunch of the veggies while crema tied it all together.


Cauliflower tostada [$4.00]
Given that I was expecting some fried florets, this turned out much better than I thought it would. Shaved super thin, the cauliflower's delicate flavors paired well with the balance of creamy avocado and zippy acidity here, making for a lovely eating experience, especially with the crunch of that tostada.


Scallop taco [$3.75]
The scallop rendition of the taco was similar to the aforementioned fish, but the protein made for a suppler texture overall, with more apparent sweetness to it.


We BYOB'd it tonight with a couple bottles, the first being the new 2015 Smog City Kumquat Saison. This was definitely one of my favorite beers from the brewery, with its great kumquat-laced nose leading to a juicy palate loaded with more citrus and a pleasant, countervailing hoppiness.


Chicken taquitos
Punta Cabras was running a taquito special this evening, so we had to give 'em a try. I preferred the chicken version above, which really showed off the savoriness of the bird, beautifully paired with the guac and smoky salsa. Delish.


Mixto coctele [$7.00]
A seafood cocktail brought together scallop and shrimp in a soupy lime-tomato broth with avocado and cucumber. It was actually one of the better preparations I've had, with great textures and freshness on the shellfish. I also appreciated how the kitchen didn't go overboard with the sweetness, as well as how the dish had a slight backbone of spice for that extra kick.


Chips and salsa [$1.00]
Chips and salsa got the job done, with a particularly nice consistency on the salsa part.


Shrimp taco [$MP]
The shrimp taco was perhaps my favorite of the four varieties. Great snappines here on the shrimp, which easily had the most intense brine of the seafood options.


Our second beer was the 2015 Avery Raspberry Sour. This was a fun one: tart initially, but backed by a fruity, almost jammy sweetness and a whisper of earth. Very approachable for a sour.


Beef taquitos
Beef taquitos worked well enough, though they had a sweet spice to them that I wasn't terribly keen on. I'd definitely go for the chicken.


Tofu taco [$3.00]
The tofu taco was another pleasant surprise, as I wouldn't immediately pick the protein out as tofu.


Mixto tostada [$6.00]
Last up was the mixed tostada, another highlight. Superb textures and vibrancy on the shrimp and scallops here, and I loved how that all melded with the lushness of avocado and the brightness and acidity at play.

It looks like Gil and Snukal have done a pretty good job imparting a cheffy edge to Mexican seafood classics, giving us fun, familiar food executed with aplomb and some better-than-usual ingredients. As a follow-up, they opened Hamburguesas Punta Cabras in Downtown, which dropped at the end of March in the old Mai Mexican Kitchen space. Their goal there was to do the same thing for burgers that they've done here for tacos, but the place shuttered in July before I could make it over. Apparently another location is in work, so be on the lookout for that.

San Diego Breweries Part 1

July 15, 2015, 3:55 pm

≫ Next: Mondo Taco (Santa Monica, CA)

≪ Previous: Tacos Punta Cabras (Santa Monica, CA)

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Toolbox Brewing Company
1495 Poinsettia Ave, Vista, CA 92081
760.598.1477
www.toolboxbrewing.com
Fri 04/24/2015, 03:55p-04:40p





I recently found myself down in the San Diego area for a quick tour, and given my penchant for beer, it made sense to stop by a few places on the way. First up was North County's Toolbox Brewing, named after a somewhat fanciful description of the downtown SD skyline. Specializing in small-batch sour and farmhouse ales, the brewery debuted at the start of September last year and is the work of owners Spencer Peters and Amanda Elder, as well as brewmaster Peter Perrecone.


Befitting the name, there's certainly a handyman theme happening inside the tasting room, with a nod toward the area's military history as well.


Above, we see Toolbox's tap list, which slants heavily toward the sour, farmhouse, and fruited stuff (not that I'm complaining). Click for a larger version.


We went with a quartet of four-ounce tasters for our first round (left to right):

• Tart X with Apricots / Brett Tart Farmhouse [$3]: Nice floral, fruity apricot and funk in the aroma; on the tongue, the sourness and earth dominate, with stone fruit taking a bit of a backseat.
• Purple Drink / Boysenberry Brett Farmhouse [$3]: Surprisingly light on the nose, with just a touch of the fruit, while the taste brought more tartness and a whisper of berry.
• Sweet Baby Trey / Brett Farmhouse [$2]: The subtle graininess on the aroma really belied the super funky, almost blue-cheese like flavors of the beer.
• Sweet Baby Trey with Blood Orange / Brett Farmhouse [$3]: Amazingly, this had even more lactic earthiness than the base beer, all augmented by juicy, dark notes of blood orange.

Local outfit The Drunken Grill provided beer-appropriate eats this afternoon.


The Big Guido [$10.00] | ½ Pound Kielbasa Sausage, Marinara Sauce, Fresh Basil, Ricotta + American + Parmesan, Bacon
Not wanting to drink on an empty stomach, we ordered up The Big Guido, which certainly lived up to its name as probably the largest hot dog I'd ever encountered. Despite its somewhat ridiculous size, there was a great snap and juiciness on the actual sausage, and its slightly herby flavors went well with the tangy marinara and trio of cheese while basil added some welcomed aromatics to the mix.


With some food in our bellies, we were ready to go for a second flight (left to right):

• The Virgin Cherry / Brett Tart Cherry Wild Ale [$3]: Unfortunately I didn't get much cherry with this one; instead, notes of lemon, grain, and slight earth seemed to dominate.
• My Cousin, Strawberry / Wild Brett with Strawberries [$3]: Delicious strawberry jam on the nose, though the taste had a funkiness to it that veered disconcerting.
• X Lupus / Tart X with Blueberries [$3]: Berry fruit and band-aid intermingled in the aroma, while on the tongue, I got more grain, more yeast, more tartness.
• Last Call / India Pale Ale [$2]: The sole non-sour/farmhouse of the bunch, this was a sharp, piney IPA, true to the San Diego style I suppose.

My SD beer tour got off to a promising start. I think a large part of it had to do with the styles of beer here: the sour, the funky, the fruited stuff, all of which are right up my alley. Besides that, I did appreciate the craftiness, and intimacy of the place to boot. A new one, but a good one.

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The Lost Abbey / Port Brewing Company
155 Mata Way, San Marcos, CA 92069
800.918.6816
www.lostabbey.com
www.portbrewing.com
Fri 04/24/2015, 05:00p-05:20p





We went from a newbie in the form of Toolbox to one of the most respected names in the game. A bit of history is in order:

The story of Port/Lost Abbey starts with the brother-and-sister team of Vince and Gina Marsaglia. In 1987, the Colorado natives founded Pizza Port in Solana Beach as a pizza-only establishment. However, the restaurant was transformed into a brewpub in 1992, with Vince as the head brewer. Tomme Arthur then joined the team in 1997, taking over as brewmaster, and subsequently released a number of beers that firmly established Pizza Port as a leader in the San Diego beer scene.

Given all the acclaim, expansion was a must, and in 2005, Arthur and the Marsaglias partnered with financial guru Jim Comstock to found Port Brewing at the old Stone facility in San Marcos. Arthur left Pizza Port in the capable hands of one Jeff Bagby (who stayed there until the end of 2011), and debuted the new brewery in March 2006. The Lost Abbey, a separate brand specializing in Belgians, sours, and barrel-aged beers, later bowed in May that year. Most recently (as in earlier this year), the team expanded their portfolio to include The Hop Concept, a new line comprised solely of IPAs.


Inside, the room strikes a balance between intimacy and capacity. Note the paintings by the brewery's in-house artist Sean Dominguez adorning the walls.


The draft list here is pretty evenly split between the Lost Abbey and Port beers. There's also quite an array of bottles available, but generally nothing too limited (i.e. don't count on Duck Duck Gooze popping up). Click for a larger version.


At only a dollar a pop, tasters are the way to go (left to right):

• Carnevale / French Country Ale with Brettanomyces [$1]: Spicy and grainy on the nose, with a palate imbued with flavors of peach, biscuit, and Brett earthiness.
• Board Meeting / Dark Brown brewed with Coffee & Cocoa Nibs [$1]: Very coffee-forward, both in terms of aroma and taste, all over notes of chocolate from the nibs and a noticeable hoppiness.
• Mongo IPA / 2x IPA with Columbus, Cascade & Amarillo Hops [$1]: The first of two IPAs, this one smelled piney and sharp, with just a trace of citrus, and tasted of more hops and bready malt.
• Citrus & Piney [$1]: Compared to the Mongo, this was noticeable juicier on the nose, probably due to the incorporation of orange zest, while on the tongue, tropical fruit intertwined with even more hop character and spice.

Unfortunately we didn't get to spend much time here due to schedule constraints, but the place might be worth a revisit. The selection of beers was pretty solid, though I will say that I would've liked to have seen some sours in the mix.

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Stone Brewing Co.
1999 Citracado Parkway, Escondido, CA 92029
760.294.7866
www.stonebrewing.com
Fri 04/24/2015, 05:30p-06:30p



Next up was a visit to the unquestioned behemoth of the SD brewing scene. Stone was founded by Greg Koch and Steve Wagner back in '96, in the facility that's now home to Port/Lost Abbey as described above. They moved to the Escondido site here in 2006, which also houses the Stone Brewing World Bistro & Gardens restaurant, a Stone Company Store, and an acre of gardens. Today, Stone's the largest brewery in Southern California and one of the largest in the country.


The building, unsurprisingly, is massive, and we found a table in the restaurant's sprawling outdoor dining area.


Brussels Sprouts [$7.00] | Crispy Brussels sprouts with a sweet and sour twist and fried pancetta lardons
Brussels were pretty typical: bitter and charred, with a sweet 'n' sour component.


Ironically, we didn't actually have any of Stone's beers this evening, but instead opted for a couple bottles off their list:

• Prairie Artisan Ales - Eliza5beth / Golden Farmhouse Ale aged on Apricots [$16]: Refreshing on the nose, with acidic aromas of bright citrus and stone fruit; the taste follows, and also adds more tartness, biscuit, spice, and earth--not bad.
• Paradox - Skully Barrel No. 24 a.k.a. The Cherished aged in Bordeaux Barrels / Brewed with Dark Cherries and Cacao Nibs [$18]: My first beer from Paradox, this one was pretty neat, with a pleasant sourness to it that really balanced out the chocolate-covered cherries aspect of the brew.

Again, we were time-constrained, so we didn't really get a proper experience here unfortunately. A revisit is definitely an option, and I wouldn't mind taking a tour next time, either.

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Modern Times Beer
3725 Greenwood St, San Diego, CA 92110
619.546.9694
www.moderntimesbeer.com
Fri 04/24/2015, 11:20p-11:55p





Modern Times was the initial impetus for the trip, given that there were bottles of bourbon barrel-aged Monsters' Park that had to be picked up. Founded back in 2013 by homebrewer and former Stone employee Jacob McKean, MT's one of the most promising breweries to come out of San Diego in a while, known for their solid year-round beers, top-notch barrel-aged brews, and burgeoning sour program.


Situated near San Diego International Airport, Modern Times' Lomaland Fermentorium is without a doubt one of the coolest-looking tasting rooms I've encountered.


16 taps are generally on offer here, comprised of both core beers and special offerings, in addition to house-roasted coffee. Click for a larger version.


We opted for a foursome to sample (left to right, up and down):

• Funky Universal / Chardonnay Saison with Brett [$4]: Refreshing, clean, and dry, with notes of light grain, Brett, tartness, and subtle fruit in an overall vinous package.
• Black House with Coconut & Cocoa / Coffee Stout [$4]: Like a liquid Mounds bar, 'nuff said.
• Black House with Vanilla on Cask: Soft and supple, with lovely notes of sweet vanilla intertwined with the base beer's coffee and roast characteristics.
• Nitro Black House [$6]: Great coffee aromatics on this one, all in a delightfully smooth, silky package.

We also popped a bottle of the Mount Remarkable [$6.99], which had just been released. It was the brewery's first lager, a low-weight, floral, hoppy beer with a grainy, bready base.

Of all the new breweries in the area, Modern Times is the one that I'm most excited about. I'll be watching them closely, and have already ordered and received their follow-up Monsters' Park releases, featuring a combination of rum barrels, vanilla, coffee, cacao, and coconut.

Stay tuned for part 2 and four more breweries...

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Mondo Taco (Santa Monica, CA)

July 17, 2015, 8:40 pm

≫ Next: The Kroft (Anaheim, CA)

≪ Previous: San Diego Breweries Part 1

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Mondo Taco Restaurant
2200 Colorado Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90404
310.310.8922
www.mondotaco.com
Tue 05/19/2015, 08:40p-09:30p





After eating at Tacos Punta Cabras earlier in the evening, we were still in a taco-ish mood, and thus wandered over to Mondo Taco. Mondo Taco, as its name would imply, serves a wide variety of tacos ostensibly inspired by all sorts of global cuisines. The restaurant is the work of Sam Spector, a 35-year hospitality veteran and Philadelphia native who was last seen around these parts at The Culver Hotel. He opened Mondo in July 2012 in an out-of-the-way location in Mid-Wilshire, the former home of Little Kitchen and The Breakfast Place. However, after gaining a bit of traction, he got some investors on board and relocated the eatery in February last year to its current spot in Santa Monica, which now serves an expanded menu to a lot more diners.


The restaurant is situated on the ground floor of AO Apartments (formerly The Arboretum of Santa Monica). It's a counter service type of place, with seating for about two dozen guests.


Mondo Taco's menu is vast, with roughly 35 types available at a given time divided into meat, seafood, and vegetarian sections. All tacos are served on housemade corn tortillas (with a pinch of flour apparently), though you can go gluten-free or Dino-style (cabbage leaf) for an extra charge. Wrap (flour or wheat) or bowl (rice or cabbage or quinoa) options are available as well. To drink, you get sodas and such, and there's beer on tap, too. Click for a larger version.


We BYOB'd the beer that was left over from Punta Cabras. First up was the 2014 Almanac Devil's Advocate, a 100% Brettanomyces sour ale brewed with Mosaic hops and aged in wine barrels, then dry-hopped with Nelson before bottling. It turned out to be one of my favorite Almanacs in a while, with the beer's funky, tart qualities beautifully matched by juicy, tropical nuances of melon and citrus.


Thailicious [$3.50] | Grilled Chicken, Chipotle-Peanut Sauce, Cilantro, Onion
We got things going with a Thai-inspired taco. The chicken itself wasn't terribly interesting here, but its accompaniments certainly worked, with a lovely brightness from the cilantro-onion and a sweet, nutty presence from the sauce that brought it all together.


Sister Sledge [$3.50] | Soyrizo, Avocado, Cilantro, Jalapeño, 1000 Island, Onion
Our sole non-meat taco turned out to be a pleasant surprise. The so-called soyrizo did an admirable job conveying the spice and savor of chorizo, while the combo of cilantro and avocado imparted a necessary balance. I didn't mind the Thousand Island, either, which added an additional level of lushness to things.


The Reading Draft Blueberry Birch [$2.50] was no doubt the bluest thing that I'd ever consumed, and quite sweet overall, but with a pleasant effervescence that made it go down easy.


El Greco [$4.75] | Shawarma Grilled Lamb, Tzatziki, Diced Tomato
Next was a reasonable approximation of the ubiquitous shawarma wrap, with the lamb making sense alongside the cool, countering yogurt while tomatoes added a hit of tartness to the fray.


Afrentina [$4.75] | Moroccan Lamb, Chimichurri Sauce
Another lamb-based taco wasn't quite as successful. The actual meat came well-spiced and reasonably juicy. However, the accompanying chimichurri went overly tart, astringent almost.


Last to drink was the 2015 Prairie Limo Tint, a milk stout aged on chocolate. The beer drank smooth and creamy, with a delightful cacao-tinged sweetness joined by notes of dark fruit, roast, malt, and coffee.


Tinga Bling-Bling [$4.25] | Chipotle-Marinated Chicken, Cotija Cheese, Pickled Onions, Cabbage, House-made Crema Fresca
A special tonight, the tinga hit the mark, with the tender, deeply-flavored chicken melding well with the cotija and crema while onions and cabbage gave up the necessary lightness.



Nuclear Bomb | Short Rib, Sriracha, Kimchi, Fried Egg
We concluded with one of Mondo's off-menu tacos, which was only made possible due to some homemade kimchi we happened to have on us (the kitchen had run out of the regular kimchi they use). The resultant taco was a bit trashy, sure, but also pretty tasty, with the tender cuts of short rib working hand-in-hand with the lushness of that egg while kimchi brought a much-appreciated crunch and spice to the mix.


Dessert comprised some donuts that we happened to have on hand as well, sourced from Cofax Coffee, the newest project from Jason Bernstein and James Starr, the guys behind Golden State/Bludso's Bar-&-Que/Prime Pizza. They were made by Nicole Rucker (who joined the team in May after leaving Gjusta), and varieties included Strawberry Shortcake, Lemon Pistachio, Compartes Chocolate, Blueberry Hand Pie, and what I believe was Coffee Cake.

I walked into Mondo Taco pretty much out of the blue, but left reasonably satisfied with the place. It's a fun concept overall, and the flavors mostly work.

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Our second round of dessert brought us to the Sweet Rose Creamery on Pico, which I'd actually never been to before (haven't been to the Beverly one either). The location definitely lacks the charm (and seating area) of the Brentwood original, but the actual ice creams looked to be just as exemplary. We sampled the Buttermilk Sherbet with Strawberry Ripple, Blueberry Muffin Ice Cream (loved the texture of the muffin bits in this one), and the Strawberry & Vanilla Bean Gelato Soft Serve.

The Kroft (Anaheim, CA)

July 19, 2015, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Butcher's Dog (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Mondo Taco (Santa Monica, CA)

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The Kroft at Anaheim Packing House
440 S Anaheim Blvd, Anaheim, CA 92805
714.635.5900
www.thekroft.com
Sat 05/30/2015, 08:30p-10:45p





Apparently the Anaheim Packing District is the place to be in OC these days. Specifically, its Anaheim Packing House building seems to be all the rage, a bustling food hall set in a 1919 era Sunkist facility. It opened at the end of May last year, and judging from the lines, the most popular stall here has got to be The Kroft. Named after a small farm of sorts, the place is the work of Stephen Le and Matthew Tong, the duo behind SWSH Shabu in Irvine. A self-taught chef, Le heads up the kitchen here, which aims to put out elevated comfort food, with a particular emphasis on poutines. The Kroft was first teased back in September 2013 at the OC Fest of Ales, but the restaurant proper dropped last June.


In addition to the aforementioned poutines, the menu also features a selection of sandwiches, along with apps and sides. And to drink? Beer of course. Click for a larger version.


We BYOB'd it tonight, natch, and I got things going with the 2015 Modern Times Monsters' Park aged in Bourbon Barrels with Coffee, part of a brewery-only, 600-bottle release from March this year. On the nose, I actually got less coffee, and more barrel than anticipated, while taste-wise, things were much, much more coffee-forward, with some very true-to-life roasty, bitter notes vying for attention against the base beer's malty, chocolatey, oaky flavor profile.


Braised Short Rib Poutine [$9.00] | Short Rib Gravy, Sautéed Mushroom, Pickled Red Onions
According to the person taking my order, this is the poutine to get, and I can see why. Think dark, rich savors from the tender shards of short rib here, enhanced by a generous slathering of gravy and earthy mushrooms, all while red onion and cilantro imparted a much-welcomed lightness to the mix.


Fried Cheese Curds [$4.00]
Fried cheese curds were just that: crispy and salty on the outside, creamy and gooey on the inside.


Our next beer was the North Coast Grand Cru, a Belgian-style pale ale brewed with agave nectar and aged in bourbon barrels. This one smelled of light, boozy fruit intertwined with oak, and on the tongue I got loads of rich stone fruit set over an undercurrent of boozy bourbon and subdued spice.


Cheeseburger Poutine [$9.00]
A special, this hamburger-inspired poutine was reminiscent of an In-N-Out Double-Double, with the hearty, gratifying combo of meat 'n' cheese working well alongside strips of lettuce, the pickles adding a lovely tartness to things.


Brussels and Bacon [$5.00]
Brussels didn't quite deliver though. There were lots of smoky, salty flavors here, but I really wanted to experience more the bitterness, the crunch of the sprouts.


Next to imbibe was the 2013 FiftyFifty BART, a mélange of the brewery's Totality Imperial Stout, Donner Party Porter, and Summit Barleywine, aged in oak for half a year. This one smelled somewhat tart, boozy, with an amount of dark fruit and faint vanilla. Meanwhile, I tasted lots of malt, chocolate, more dark fruit and more barrel character.


Porchetta Sandwich [$10.00] | Ciabatta, Belly/Loin, Cracklings, Salsa Verde
Porchetta's hard to turn down, and they did a pretty good job with it here, with the meat coming out appropriately porky and aromatic, though not particularly fatty. I really appreciated the crunchy bits thrown into the mix, and how the combo of arugula and salsa verde gave the sandwich just the right amount of acid and brightness.


Loaded Potato Salad [$4.00]
I'm a sucker for potato salad, and this one hit the mark, the smoky, salty bacon really working hand-in-hand with the dish's tangy, hearty base of potatoes.


Our first sour was the newly-released 2015 Bruery Terreux Filmishmish, a sour blonde aged in oak with apricots added. I found this very tart on the nose initially, with the stone fruit peeking through in waves. Similarly, on the palate the beer veered sour at first, but with the apricot making itself known on the midpalate in a jammy-but-restrained fashion.


Chicken Pot Fries [$8.00] | Chicken Gravy, Rotisserie Chicken
I'm a big proponent of chicken pot pie, and this next poutine did a commendable job recalling the traditional dish, with all the homey, comforting flavors that you'd expect.


Chili-Mac [$5.00]
A prototypical macaroni and cheese was taken up a notch by the inclusion of chili, which imparted a welcomed heat to the side.


Our second sour was the Mikkeller Spontandoubleblueberry, a blueberry lambic. This one was quite jammy on the nose, but also rather acidic. In terms of taste, think really funky, lactic even, but without too much fruit unfortunately.


Prime Ribeye Dip [$12.00] | French Roll, Caramelized Onion, Horseradish, Au Jus
The prime rib was to my liking, with the thinly-sliced meat coming out supple and savory, its beefiness superbly accented by the pungency of horseradish. I didn't even need the au jus.


Garlic Truffle French Fries [$5.50]
Garlic fries were among the best I've had, with some great garlicky aromatics and just a whisper of truffle earthiness overarching everything.


The 2015 The Bruery Cuivre is the brewery's latest anniversary beer, marking their seventh year. An old ale aged solera-style in bourbon barrels, this was just what you'd expect from the series, a dark fruit bomb loaded with plenty of dark sugar, molasses, bourbon, and wood.


Kroft Fried Chicken [$8.50] | French Roll, Jalapeño Slaw, Garlic Mayo
The requisite fried chicken sandwich was another winner here, the bird showing off a delightful crispness and savor while coleslaw provided a much-appreciated crunch and heat to things.


Cucumber Mint Lemonade [$3.50]
The Kroft's signature lemonade was neat, expectedly tart at first, but with the coolness of the cucumber and mint coming through toward the back end.


Dessert isn't really served here, so we brought our own. Up first: a duo of Cookies & Cream Pocky and Chocolate Banana Pocky, two flavors that I'd never encountered before.


The 2015 Perennial 17--an imperial stout brewed with chocolate malts, cacao nibs, and mint leaves--made for a fitting dessert beer. Think big, robust, yet bitter notes of chocolate, commingled with cool hints of mint. Andes?


We also enjoyed build-your-own popsicles from Popbar.


Finally, some Matcha Green Tea Oreo Soft Cookies from Japan. I never even knew Oreos came in soft form.

I think we were all pretty happy with The Kroft. The cooking's basically comfort food at its core, but with enough done to it to make things just interesting enough. Given the success of the place, I'm not surprised that they're looking to expand. Union Market in Tustin is next, and apparently there are plans for Union Market Mission Viejo and Downtown LA as well.

Butcher's Dog (Los Angeles, CA)

July 21, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Steak & Whisky (Hermosa Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: The Kroft (Anaheim, CA)

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Butcher's Dog Pub & Restaurant
11301 W Olympic Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064
310.444.2929
www.butchersdogla.com
Sat 06/06/2015, 08:00p-11:55p





When I caught up with Brendan Collins at Birch at the start of May, he mentioned that he was working on a place on Sawtelle. Well, said place revealed itself just days later as Butcher's Dog, a sports bar-cum-gastropub helmed by Head Chef Stuart Gerber. A University of Georgia grad, Gerber was formerly CdC at Waterloo & City (he was there for the restaurant's entire run), and also served in the same role at Birch until April. FOH duties, meanwhile, are handled by Fabrice Lorenzi (La Cachette Bistro, Anisette, La Cachette).


Butcher's Dog is located at The Olympic Collection, an event venue that's apparently quite popular with the Persian crowd (it was even featured on Shahs of Sunset) and also serves as home to the likes of Kiriko and Yakitoriya. The former Avenue Italy and Tapenade space has been turned into a more casual sort of spot, replete with no fewer than 10 televisions.


Divvied up into starters, flatbreads, and larger plates, the menu at Butcher's Dog is all about updated pub fare, and in addition to dinner, lunch and brunch are both viable options. To imbibe, you get 10 taps, a selection of bottled beer, as well as the requisite array of wine. However, given that we were doing a mini tasting of limited edition beers this evening, we BYOB'd and arranged for comped corkage (making sure to send plenty of beer back to the kitchen). Click for larger versions.


First up was the 2015 Sante Adairius / Triple Rock Barrel Aged Cellarman, a saison that was first brewed at Berkeley's Triple Rock for 2013's SF Beer Week. What we have here is a wine barrel-aged version of that beer. It was utterly delightful: funky with loads of bright, juicy fruit on the nose, while the palate went lemon-y tart, dry, earthy, and oaky, with a delectable vinous presence. Superbly well balanced, and one of the best saisons I've had in a while.


Chicken Liver & Foie Gras Mousse [$10.00] | Beet marmalade, country toast
Collins and Gerber served this dish back at Waterloo & City, so it came as no surprise that the version tonight was spot on. The mousse was smooth, delicate, slightly sweet, with the robustness of the chicken liver and finesse of the foie working beautifully together. Great over the included toast.


Salmon Poke [$10.00] | Cucumber, avocado, pork rinds
The restaurant's ode to LA's recent poke craze was more interesting than I expected. Loved the creeping spice here to go with the clean, creamy flavors present, and the salty crunch of the rinds was appreciated as well.


On the opposite end of the beer spectrum, we had the 2015 Cigar City Hunahpu's Imperial Stout, aged on cacao nibs, ancho and pasilla chiles, cinnamon, and Madagascar vanilla beans. It was comparable to last year's version, a wonderfully aromatic presentation of sweet spice over a rich, chocolatey, roasty stout base, with just a whisper of heat.


Fried Pork Belly [$10.00] | Brussels sprouts, cornbread, fish sauce caramel
The belly was definitely a standout, mostly for its incorporation of fish sauce caramel, which lent a delightfully sweet, Asian-y funk to the dish that really matched well with the pork. Great texture on the belly as well, and the bitterness of the sprouts was certainly welcomed too. In fact, the cornbread wasn't even necessary.


The first of three stone fruit sours this evening was the 2015 Upright Fantasia, an oak aged beer with fresh peaches that was released at the start of January. On the nose, I got a nice Brett funk intermingled with subtle peach and some metallic notes. On the tongue, more stone fruit transitioning to an earthiness toward the close, but as it warmed, there was a lot more lingering peach on the back end.


Pickled Hen Egg [$5.00] | House-made tartar sauce, radish, toast
Eggs conveyed a fun, pickle-y tartness that I enjoyed, and the acidity and texture on the tartar worked as a near-flawless pairing, all while toast served as a great base to the dish.


Brussels Sprouts & Pastrami [$8.00]
Brussels were perfectly textured, and teeming with all the bitter, charred, sweet 'n' sour flavors that you'd want. Tasty alone, and even better with the additional heft of pastrami.


This was my second time having the 2015 The Lost Abbey Veritas 015 recently, an oak aged sour with apricots, nectarines, and peaches (the first was at Elite). In terms of bouquet, the beer was all about an earthy, tart funk over a secondary element of stone fruit. However, when tasted, I got the fruit first, with the deeper, barnyard notes coming in later. Compared to the Fantasia, I found this heftier, more intense.


Chicken Tikka Masala Flatbread [$12.00] | Raita, scallions
One of the more well-known items on W&C's menu was the butter chicken pizza. I never had it, but I can imagine it being something like this, with its vaguely Indian flavors working swimmingly alongside that cool, creamy raita. It was a tasty flatbread, but I would've liked more in-your-face tikka masala aromatics, like what Collins did with his monkfish at Birch.


The most anticipated bottle this evening was likely the 2013 3 Fonteinen Hommage, a lambic brewed with raspberries and sour cherries meant to honor the late Gaston Debelder, founder of the brewery. The beer smelled of deep, robust funk, commingled with a good amount of fruit and a slight woodiness. Taste-wise, I found an initial blast of tart fruit, oak, transitioning to vinegar-y notes and that band-aid quality that everyone talks about, but which I didn't mind.


Radicchio Salad [$13.00] | Onions, radish, celery, parmesan, egg, truffle vinaigrette
Perhaps due to the beer we'd been sending their way, the kitchen gifted us the radicchio salad. It was superb, with the rich, heady excess of the truffle and egg coming together in classic, luxurious fashion, all moderated by the bitter crunch of the chicory.


Brisket Flatbread [$12.00] | Rosemary, blue cheese, arugula
Our next flatbread was enjoyable as well, with the brisket's deep, dark, beefy, rosemary-tinged notes well-matched to the funk of the cheese while arugula imparted a zestiness to the mix.


Next to drink came the 2013 AleSmith Vietnamese Coffee Speedway Stout, which I first tasted last year at Pine & Crane. The beer comprised stout blended with four types of ca phe sua da, the result of which was a wonderfully aromatic brew teeming with sweet 'n' spicy nuances to pair with the base beer's chocolate character.


Fish 'n Chips [$16.00] | House-made tartar sauce, lemon
The quintessential English pub dish, the fish and chips came out right on point, with the light, fluffy, flaky cod working perfectly with the tangy tartar on the side. Nice job on the fries, too.


I was also rather excited about the 2014 Cantillon Saint Lamvinus, a lambic aged in Bordeaux barrels with Merlot grapes. Think funky and almost bracingly tart at first, with the vinous nature of the grapes coming through later, the oak making itself known the whole way through.


Broccolini Flatbread [$12.00] | Italian fennel sausage, egg
Our final flatbread really showed off the bitter, astringent taste of broccolini, which served as a base for the otherwise cheesy, savory, herby flavors at play.


Seared Flat Iron [$23.00] | Crispy onions, sunchokes, steak butter
The flat iron was one of the better ones I've had, coming out surprisingly tender, with a delectable sort of beefiness that played beautifully with the herbaceous compound butter.


The last sour brought out the 2015 The Bruery Terreux Sour in the Rye with Peaches, a rye ale aged in oak barrels with peaches that I'd had not long ago at 4th Street Market's Lunchbox. I think it's improved a touch with age. I smell robust notes of stone fruit and earth, and tasted a commixture of peach, wood, and rye spice, with the fruit lasting long on the finish.


Cottage Pie [$20.00] | Glazed vegetables, Yukon mashed potatoes, cheddar
The shepherd's pie was another standout for me, a homey, hearty presentation of meat and potatoes imbued with a lovely bit of spicy savor that matched well with the brightness of the greenery up top. Given the tastiness of the dish, I'd love to see the kitchen do their version of fish pie.


Time for dessert, and dessert-y beer, first the 2015 Modern Times Bourbon Barrel Aged Monsters' Park with Coconut and Cacao Nibs, part of a 600-bottle, brewery-only release from March this year. Think powerful blasts of sweet coconut, mixed with complementary notes of chocolate, roast, and barrel, accented by a tart/bitter quality, the coconut lingering long on the finish. If that wasn't enough, the beer got better and better as it warmed, with more and more coconut becoming apparent.


White Chocolate & Cherry Trifle [$9.00] | Shortbread, whipped cream
This reimagined trifle was fetching, with some nice textural variation and a base of sweet, spicy flavors and stone fruit, smartly accentuated by the tartness of cherry.


Sticky Toffee Pudding [$8.00] | Caramel, vanilla ice cream
We ended with a staple dessert from the Waterloo & City days. It was definitely a crowd pleaser, with massive amounts of deep, rich, caramel and dark fruit notes in a moist, springy package, the ice cream adding a much appreciated touch of the lightness. Can't go wrong with this.


Closing out the evening was a 2014 Hangar 24 Pugachev Royale, a maple stout aged in bourbon barrels for eight months with cacao nibs and vanilla beans, then aged an additional ten months in brandy casks. This one was intense, with huge amounts of chocolate and vanilla on the nose. The body drank thick, viscous, boozy, with more fudge, caramel, vanilla, and dark fruit that stuck around a long-ass time.


A great graveyard of sours and stouts (and one saison).

We all left properly impressed with Butcher's Dog. Classic at its core, but still interesting enough, the food almost matches what Collins and company were putting out at Waterloo, and it really was a surprise to have such strong cookery at a place with 10 TVs going. And speaking of W&C, Collins and company are reportedly working on bringing the place back, so definitely watch out for that.

Steak & Whisky (Hermosa Beach, CA)

July 24, 2015, 7:25 pm

≫ Next: San Diego Breweries Part 2

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Steak and Whiskey Restaurant
117 Pier Ave, Hermosa Beach, CA 90254
310.318.5555
www.steakandwhisky.com
Tue 06/09/2015, 07:25p-11:05p





Tin Vuong and Jed Sanford's BlackHouse, the group responsible for the likes of Little Sister and Dia de Campo, expanded their footprint in the South Bay recently with the launch of their newest eatery, Steak & Whisky. The restaurant debuted at the end of February, an updated take on the old school steakhouse helmed by Executive Chef John Shaw.

About the Chef: Shaw grew up in Orange County, attending Marina High in Huntington Beach. He began his restaurant career at age 15, starting out as a dishwasher at Stef Serafin's now-shuttered Italian joint Ciao Brasserie. He eventually made his way into the kitchen, and by the following year, had started working for none other than Brendan Collins at Melisse. Shaw ended up with Collins again at Pali House, and even helped with the opening of Waterloo & City in 2010. In March 2011, he took on his first Executive Chef role at The Crow Bar and Kitchen in Corona Del Mar, staying there until October 2013. That December, he moved to New York to become Executive Sous Chef at Tavern on the Green, then came back to LA to open Steak & Whisky.


Inside, things are smaller than you'd expect, with space for about 50 diners in a rustic, wood-laden, leather-swathed room.


In true steakhouse fashion, the menu's divvied up into sections for starters, salads, mains, steaks, and sides. Notably, the steaks are all dry-aged (save for the Miyazaki wagyu of course), and definitely on the pricier side. To drink, you get a nice cocktail list, a few beers, a varied array of wines (mostly red, natch), and a pretty impressive selection of whiskies from across the globe. Click for larger versions.


Bill the Butcher [$15.00] | Earl Grey Infused Makers Mark Whiskey, Americano Liqueur, Velvet Falernum
We went straight for the cocktails, starting with this tasty number: citrusy and clean on the nose, with a taste that veered floral, spicy, and most of all bitter, with a pleasing backbone of bourbon.


House Bread [$5.00] | vermont cultured butter, sea salt
Bread arrived hot and soft, a fitting vehicle on which to consume the Vermont butter.


The Swanson [$15.00] | Knob Creek Rye Whiskey, Barrel Smoked Maple, Bitters, Tenderloin Steak Chip
Despite the presence of the steak chip, this next cocktail didn't display all that much in terms of aroma. It did deliver, however, on the palate, a viscous concoction that blended the heft of the Knob Creek with sugary maple. What's interesting was that the salt of the chip seemed to emphasize the sweetness in the drink.


Smoked Ham Hock Ravioli [$13.00] | brandade, escarole, creamed leeks, pork jus, chicharron
The ravioli were decent enough, showing off a straightforward, hammy sort of savor. The hero for me, though, was that salt cod, which overshadowed the pasta and had a wonderful salinity to it that made total sense with the leeks in the dish.


French Onion Soup [$12.00] | comte, oxtail, crostini
The ubiquitous French onion soup was one of the best renditions that I've tried. A homey, cozy mélange of savory, sweet, and super cheesy, it showed off all the classic flavors that you'd expect, but seemingly intensified.


Mexican Passport [$12.00] | Milagro Reposado, Hibiscus-Agave Tea, Lime, Mezcal
The requisite mezcal-containing cocktail hit its mark, showing off the floral sweetness of hibiscus-agave before transitioning to the smokiness of the spirit. Nice hit of tartness from the lime, too.


Seared Scallop [$19.00] | spring pea crème, guanciale, grapefruit vinaigrette, jalapeno, mint, pea shoots
Next, Shaw sent out the scallops, which delivered, showing off a nice caramelization along with a balance of sweet and saline flavors, the peas and sprouts imparting a much-appreciated brightness to the course.


Heirloom Tomato Salad [$17.00] | watermelon, sunflower-lemon vinaigrette, anchovy chips, black garlic
A tomato salad worked itself out, with the sweet-tart tomato-watermelon combo anchored by the vinaigrette, all while anchovy imparted a fishy accent to the dish.


Steak Tartare [$18.00] | smoked cucumber, chive, dijon, red curry, soft egg, fennel crackers
The much bandied about tartar was indeed on point, the well-textured steak showing off a considerable depth, its almost Asian-y savors accented by a lingering spice. Can't go wrong with that runny egg, either, and I was a fan of those extra crunchy fennel crackers as well.


Pier 117 Crab Cake [$18.00] | crispy butterbean, tomato jam, cress, banyuls vin
The crabcake was one of the more interesting examples I've had, mostly due to its crust, which had an almost panko-like lightness to it. Overall, the cake conveyed a satisfying bit of savor to it, along with a whisper of herby brightness, and I quite enjoyed the balance imparted by the cress salad as well. I really didn't need so many of those deep-fried butter beans, though.


Queen's Cup [$13.00] | House Infused Thai Basil Russian Standard Vodka, Pimm's, Lemon, Red Pepper
Vodka was put to reasonably good use here, serving as a stage for all the fruity, citrusy flavors at play. This went down easy.


Hamachi Crudo [$22.00] | stave-smoked yogurt, meyer lemon, crispy garlic flower
Yellowtail arrived clean and supple, its subtly fatty qualities well-matched to the delicate smokiness from the yogurt while lemon gave up the right amount of tartness.


Charcuterie [$21.00] | pate de campagna, duck ham, guanciale, foie gras & cardamom torchon
Charcuterie is made in-house. I was especially fond of the gritty, rustic pâté de campagne, as well as that delightfully smooth, sweet, spicy foie gras. A lovely array of accoutrements here, too.


Cauliflower Risotto [$8.00] | sheep's cheese, hazelnut
A cauliflower risotto came out lush and creamy, really doing a great job showcasing the delicate nuances of the vegetable, with the hazelnut adding just a smidge of nuttiness to the mix.


Roasted Market Vegetables [$10.00] | evoo, sea salt
Veggies were pretty much spot on: beautifully textured and well-charred.


Motorcycle Diaries [$14.00] | Kappa Pisco, Pineapple Gum, Ancho Reyes Chile, Egg White
Our final cocktail was a winner as well. Great sweet, spicy aromatics on this one, and taste-wise, I was a fan of the bitter, yet floral notes going on, not to mention the froth of the egg white.


Ribeye [$58.00] | 15 oz., prime, 30 day dry-age
Now we got into the steaks, starting with the dry-aged rib eye, which came out well-marbled, tender, and with a nice char. Taste-wise, it was intense, one of the most richly-flavored steaks I've had in fact, showing off a buttery, beefy, almost foie gras-esque richness to it that was about as concentrated as you can get. Such is the power of dry-aging--wow.


Kansas City Strip [$70.00] | 15 oz. prime, 30 day dry-age
The strip steak, meanwhile, was a bit more subdued, immensely flavorful sure, but not nearly as in-your-face, with a pleasant peppery quality to it. I would've liked a bit more sear here though.


Japanese Wagyu Miyazaki [$18.00/oz] | ribeye
Last up was the pièce de résistance, some real-deal Japanese wagyu. I found this super fatty--a well-integrated, refined sort of fatty--and there were boatloads of the sheer beefiness that you'd want, all accented by pricks of salt. It was indeed a heavy, unabashedly rich eating experience, but different compared to the steaks above, coming off somehow more delicate, more fine-spun. Excellent.


Despite us being quite full by this point, dessert was still called for. Click for a larger version.


Peach Cobbler [$8.00] | amaranth & oat streusel, caramel gelato
A peach cobbler was classic at its core, with its massive stone fruit flavors working hand-in-hand with the streusel while the gelato added even more luxuriousness to the dish.


Wild Berry & Tomato Gazpacho [$8.00] | raisin breadcrumb, hazelnuts, mint, honeyed-ricotta
Next was surely the most progressive dessert of the bunch, playing the sweet-tang of tomato and berry against some distinctly savory flavors.


German Chocolate Cake [$8.00] | drunken cherries, candied pecans, toasted coconut gelato
Chocolate cake was given a boost by the deep cherry flavors present and the nuttiness of those pecans. My favorite part? That toasty coconut ice cream.


Charred Asian Pear Panna Cotta [$8.00] | pickled pear, spiced walnuts, caramelized fig
I quite enjoyed the panna cotta as well, with its deep fruit flavors finished by a delightful touch of smoke.

This place is shaping up to be another promising addition to the Blackhouse portfolio. The steaks are worth trying to be sure, but so are a lot of the other dishes, making for a multifaceted dining experience that's a welcomed change of pace from your typical steakhouse situation. Vuong and company aren't done expanding though. There's another outpost of Little Sister planned for Downtown, and at least one more project (maybe two?) set to drop in Redondo Beach later this year. I'll be watching.

San Diego Breweries Part 2

July 27, 2015, 3:50 pm

≫ Next: Plate by Plate 2015 (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Steak & Whisky (Hermosa Beach, CA)

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Council Brewing Company
7705 Convoy Ct, San Diego, CA 92111
858.256.0038
www.councilbrew.com
Sat 04/25/2015, 03:50p-04:30p





After hitting up four breweries the previous day, we went for another quartet, starting with Council. Founded in 2013 by Liz and Curtis Chism (Liz serves as head brewer) as well as CFO Greg Leiser, the operation opened in 2014 in the Kearny Mesa neighborhood with a particular focus on both West Coast-style IPAs and sours.


Council's tasting room is compact, but inviting.


Sixteen taps are generally available. Click for a larger version.


A flight of five tasters is the way to go here, and we made sure to get all the Beatitudes to start (left to right):

• Farmer's Gold / Belgian Saison [$1.50]: Bright green apple to begin, with Belgian-y yeast, grain, and spice to round things out.
• Dubbel Conspiracy / Belgian Dubbel [$2]: Light smoke on the bouquet, along with a subtle sweetness; on the tongue, it was all about malt, with some dark fruit and tartness.
• Beatitude Mosaic / Dry Hopped [$3]: My favorite of the Beatitudes, lemony and herby on the nose, with more tart, dry, refreshing lemon on the palate, all underscored by a wonderful hoppy bitterness that was perfectly integrated.
• Beatitude Apricot / Tart Saison [$3]: Smelled of sour stone fruit, while the taste went earthy, with the apricot coming in strong toward the rear.
• Beatitude Cherry / Tart Saison [$3]: A good amount of tart cherry on this one, the fruit flavors only intensifying toward the finish.

Heartened by the previous round, we went for another fivesome (left to right):

• Bully Pulpit IPA [$2]: Super hoppy, resinous, bracingly so, with a sweetness creeping in toward the mid palate.
• Clodhopper / E.S.B. [$1.50]: Extra nutty and almost savory in terms of aroma; again, nutty, malty, and softly bitter on the palate.
• Quorum IPA / Experimental Hop 05256 [$2]: Quorum represents a series of experimental IPAs, and this particular batch was just about the dankest IPA I've had, almost disconcertingly so in fact. Not a fan.
• Weizenbock / German Dark Wheat Beer [$2]: Classic weizenbock notes of malt, dark fruit, and subtle spice.
• Pirate's Breakfast / Imperial Oatmeal Stout [$2]: Smooth, with apparent nuances of coffee, roast, and a bit of dark fruit.

We'd initially come here to pick up bottles of Vienne, a barrel-aged biere de mars that we'd purchased earlier online. However, the brewery had run out somehow, so we were instead provided with bottles of Council's previous barrel-aged releases: Nicene, a Belgian farmhouse style sour saison, and Athanasian, a barrel-aged Belgian tripel. If that wasn't enough, we happened to run into Curtis in the tasting room, and he was kind enough to toss in a free bottle of Bourbon Barrel Aged Pirate's Breakfast as well, which he cautioned was infected (my plan is to just let it age, and see what happens).

Council's another SD area brewery that I'm pretty excited about, particularly when it comes to their sours and barrel-aged releases. In fact, I've already purchased their fifth and sixth BA beers, the House Red and House White, a duet of wine grape sours brewed for Council's first anniversary. Looking forward to seeing what they come up with next.

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Societe Brewing Company
8262 Clairemont Mesa Blvd, San Diego, CA 92111
858.598.5409
www.societebrewing.com
Sat 04/25/2015, 04:35p-05:15p





From Council, our next stop was the nearby Societe Brewing, which I'd been hearing a lot about in recent times. Opened in May 2012, the brewery is the work of Douglas Constantiner and Travis Smith, two friends who first met while working at The Bruery.


Spanning roughly 3,000 square-feet, Societe's tasting room is one of the nicer ones I've encountered, with lots of sitting space and a nice view of the entire operation.


Here we see the tap list, which is divided into three sections: Old World (Belgian-ish), Out West (West Coast-y hoppier stuff), and Stygian (dark and roasty). Click for a larger version.


We ended up getting eight tasters (only $1 each), which afford us a good overview of the beers (counter-clockwise from left):

• The Harlot / Belgian Extra: Light and grainy notes abound; a subtle fruit/floral character to taste, along with a smidge of spice and hops.
• The Debutante / Belgian Amber: Slight aromas of tartness, grain, and hops, transitioning to a malty flavor profile with a hint of yeast.
• The Bachelorette with Northern Brewer / Single Hop Lager: Very light on the nose, with hints of lemon peeping up; on the palate: crisp, refreshing, grainy, softly bitter.
• The Bachelor with Northern Brewer / Single Hop IPA: Again, lemon-y both in terms of smell and taste; tarter than The Bachelorette, with a nice amount of maltiness.
• The Madam / Belgian Strong Golden: Tart, yet somewhat fruity for the bouquet; yeasty, a bit sweet-n-sour on the tongue.
• The Widow / Belgian Strong Dark: Smells of light malt, caramel, with slight fruit; taste largely follows, with notes of caramel, roast, and mild astringency.
• The Haberdasher / English IPA: Very weak on the nose; bitter at its core, but tempered by a restrained malt profile.
• The Bellowsman / Smoked Stout: Classic stout aromas, leading to an abundance of roast, malt, and cacao, the smoke coming through more on the close.

One of the benefits of Societe's tasting room is the abundance of board games. Someone, I managed to win a game of Stars Wars Trivial Pursuit, despite not knowing much about either Stars Wars or Trivial Pursuit.

I'd heard a lot of great things about Societe coming in, but I left a bit underwhelmed. The beers are well made, but I think the issue was that stylistically, they just weren't up my alley: nothing barrel-aged, nothing funky, nothing sour, nothing really experimental. However, I know they're working on a Feral line of wine-barrel aged sours, so I'll be looking forward to trying those out.

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AleSmith Brewing Company
9368 Cabot Dr, San Diego, CA 92126
858.549.9888
www.alesmith.com
Sat 04/25/2015, 05:35p-05:55p





We then proceeded north to one of the biggest names in SD brewing. AleSmith was founded back in 1995 by Skip Virgilio and Ted Newcomb, but really began to take off after brewmaster Peter Zien purchased the company in 2002. The brewery specializes in European-inspired ales, and is especially well-regarded for its barrel-aged brews.


The tap list is fairly compact, with AleSmith's year-round beers joined by some more uncommon selections, including stuff on cask/nitro. Click for a larger version.


We were getting quite full at this point, so opted for a mere four tasters (left to right):

• Robust Porter: Coffee, bitterness on the nose; dry, roasty body, but not too hefty.
• Olde Ale MMXV on Cask: Smells of massive amounts of malt and dark fruit; tastes follows smell, with slight hops.
• Wee Heavy on Nitro: Super creamy and unabashedly boozy, with notes of dark fruit, sweet malt, roast.
• X on Cask: Hoppy, juicy aromas; tastes hoppy, yet smooth, with a dark, malty quality to even things out.

The beers were pretty on point across the board, but we didn't really want to spend too much time here given how cramped the whole place was. The tasting room is far too small given the popularity of the brewery. Fortunately, AleSmith is expanding into a much larger facility less than a mile away in the coming months. I'll be looking forward to a revisit.

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Ballast Point Brewing Company
9045 Carroll Way, San Diego, CA 92121
858.790.6901
www.ballastpoint.com
Sat 04/25/2015, 06:05p-06:35p





We ended the day at Ballast Point, the only brewery of the lot that could challenge Stone in size and scale (in fact, production-wise, it's #2 behind Stone). The history of Ballast Point starts with one Jack White, who first started brewing with roommate Pete A'Hearn during their days at UCLA. White eventually opened Home Brew Mart in San Diego in 1992, while A'Hearn went to UC Davis and earned his brewer's credentials. The two then teamed up with home brewer Yuseff Cherney and started Ballast Point in the back of Home Brew Mart in 1996, though A'Hearn left the team soon after to become a science teacher. A larger production facility was opened in Scripps Ranch in 2004, and in 2008, Ballast Point began distilling at that location. 2013 saw the debut of a brewery-restaurant in Little Italy, while last summer, the Miramar location that we see here dropped.



The space is indeed impressive, spanning over 100,000 square-feet and housing production facilities, a large tasting area, and a full-blown restaurant to boot.


Here we see the list of beers on draft (including some of BP's more uncommon selections), with tasters going for two bucks a shot. Click for a larger version.


We went with six tasters to share (left to right):

• Sour Wench: A dry, tart, crisp Berliner Weisse with a lovely overarching Marion blackberry character.
• Calm Before The Storm: A cream ale brewed with Café Calabria coffee and vanilla, this one was fetching, a silky explosion of smooth coffee and vanilla flavors.
• 70 and Sunny: A dry-hopped saison; light bitterness and earthiness in the aroma; hoppy and refreshing on the palate, with subtle citrus.
• The Commodore American Stout: Sort of a prototypical stout, roasty with coffee notes and a strong hop bite.
• Thai Chili Wahoo White: Wheat beer with Thai chilies, limes, and ginger; restrained heat on the nose; more spice hits the tongue, joined by lime tartness and an underpinning of ginger-y zest.
• Fathom IPL: India pale lager with rosemary, lemongrass, basil, and lemon verbena; a nice twist on the base beer, with some delightfully floral, herbaceous aromatics.

I was pleasant surprised with Ballast Point. Certainly, the space hits all the right notes, but the beer itself was much more interesting than I was expecting from the brewery. It'd be nice to see their more adventurous beers in bottled form.