Nightshade (Los Angeles, CA)

March 16, 2019, 8:15 pm

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Nightshade Restaurant
923 E 3rd St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
213.626.8888
www.nightshadela.com
Sat 03/16/2019, 08:15p-10:55p





In terms of Arts District openings, Nightshade has probably been the most anticipated since Bavel dropped last April. The restaurant is the long-awaited solo project from Chef Mei Lin, and debuted on January 2nd. Partnering up with Lin are No.8's Cyrus Batchan and Francis Miranda, who are mostly known for their Koreatown spot Lock & Key. Joining the Chef in the kitchen, meanwhile, is CdC Maxou "Max" Boonthanakit, who was formerly the Pastry Chef at Kato and also boasts experience at Republique, ink, The Bazaar, and Mimi's House in Diamond Bar.

About the Chef: The older of two siblings (she has a younger brother), Lin was born in China's Guangdong province, but her family relocated to Dearborn, MI when she was a mere three months old. Her family ran (and still runs) an American-Chinese restaurant called Kong Kow, with her father Jin Lin serving as chef and her mother Li Lin running the FOH. As a child and into her teenage years, she helped out in the kitchen, though she didn't particularly enjoy the job. Her parents, unsurprisingly, didn't want her to pursue a culinary career and instead wished her to be a doctor or lawyer. Lin went to Fordson High in Dearborn, finishing her studies there in 2003. She then attended Henry Ford Community College, and later Wayne State University for nursing; at this point, she was also working at Best Buy to make ends meet. However, she quickly realized that nursing wasn't for her, dropped out, and started the culinary program at Schoolcraft College in Livonia. After one-and-a-half years there, she graduated in 2007. In April 2008, Lin landed a catering gig at the Detroit Lions Headquarters and Training Facility, but by October, had moved on to Michael Symon's Roast steakhouse at the Westin Book Cadillac hotel in Detroit.

She stayed until April 2009, then went to Marcus Samuelsson's C-House at the Affinia Hotel, where she worked a stint as a line cook and helmed the restaurant's raw bar. In February 2010, she became chef de partie at Spago in Las Vegas, under Eric Klein. During this period, Lin also vacationed in Europe, and did a three week stage at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris. Upon returning, she was able to get a job at Michael Voltaggio's ink, and helped open the restaurant in September 2011. Early on at ink, she was splitting her time between there and Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel Air, but that soon ended, and she was apparently promoted to sous chef after only six months. In 2014, Voltaggio convinced her to apply for Season 12 of Top Chef, and after a lengthy application process, she was able to get on the show. Top Chef was filmed from May to June, and premiered that October, with Lin's win over Gregory Gourdet announced on the finale in February 2015. She was out of ink by early 2015, and after the win, spent a couple years traveling, eating, doing events and pop-ups, and even private cheffing for Oprah. Meanwhile, work on Nightshade began in earnest in March 2018.


Nightshade takes over Oscar Hermosillo's Cerveteca DTLA, which closed in late 2016. Before that, the address was home to longstanding sushi spot R23, which opened in 1991, waaaay before being in the Arts District was cool (I think it probably started being cool post-Church & State). The space was redone by Gracia Studio out of Tijuana, and seats about five dozen diners.


Nightshade's contemporary, pan Asian-inspired menu is on the smaller side, which I actually appreciate. Drink-wise, tea, cocktails, and a couple beers are joined by a compact, global, white-leaning wine list. Click for larger versions.


no. 12 [$17.00] | gin, rhubarb, sour plum, nigori sake, tonic
Each of Nightshade's cocktails sports a numerical moniker with a specific meaning, with the #12 here a reference to our current Year of the Pig, the twelfth animal to appear in the Chinese zodiac. In any case, the drink showcased umeboshi and rhubarb at the forefront, while the ricey sweetness of the nigorizake made itself known later on.


tom yum onion, coconut dip [$15.00]
We began with one of Nightshade's most well known dishes, which I found refined enough, yet still very much reminiscent of its trashy, Bloomin' Onion roots. The onion itself incorporated a light, non-oily batter that still provided a nice crunch, while the sweetness of the vegetable was well conveyed. It was rather tasty just by itself, but I didn't mind that almost unbelievably airy coconut condiment on the side either.


hokkaido scallops, coconut vinaigrette, crispy ginger, coriander [$23.00]
Hokkaido hotate were fresh and briny, their salinity matched by that lush, creamy, herbaceous vinaigrette and just a slight smidgen of heat. The best part, though, might've been the pungency imparted by the peppercorns. A table favorite.


no. 923 [$18.00] | "milk punch": rum-whiskey-port, mei wine tea, house spice blend
Our second, garnet-hued cocktail was straightforwardly named after Nightshade's street address. Featuring a wine cooler created by the Chef (in collaboration with Union Wine Company), it was super aromatic, bringing fourth loads of warm, soft, spicy, floral flavors along with a backbone of tropical sweetness.


beef tartare, sesame, egg yolk jam, kochukaru [$18.00]
Lin's thoroughly revamped yukhoe delivered in spades. I loved the sheer depth of savor here, and how well that integrated with the heat of the gochugaru, all while the herbs added an overarching brightness that perfectly lifted the dish. The included crackers, meanwhile, served a necessary textural and tempering element. A favorite of mine, and no doubt one of the beef tartars I've had, ever.


roasted sunchokes, strawberry mole, seeded granola [$16.00]
I don't usually care for sunchokes, but was a huge fan of this next dish. The key here was how well the root vegetable's inherent sweetness was kept in check. There was this very familiar sort of umami flavor profile, joined by a wonderful spicing and robustness from the mole, all while the granola offered up both nuttiness and crunch. This was another favorite of mine, and very possibly the best preparation of sunchoke I'd ever tasted.


no. 888 [$16.00] | bourbon, falernum, toasted coconut-makrut, sherry, lime, bitters
Named after a particularly lucky number in Chinese numerology, this next cocktail was my favorite of the bunch. Think sweet-nutty and coconut flavors, alongside dark fruit and sherry, with a touch of citric tartness for balance.


tamarind glazed baby carrots, toasted coconut, carrot top emulsion [$16.00]
Carrots were well-textured, their natural sweetness augmented by the tartness of tamarind while the carrot tops and herbs contributed an offsetting brightness that was crucial.


squid ink bucatini, cuttlefish bolognese, gochujang [$23.00]
Dark-tinted strands of bucatini arrived with a pleasantly firm bite, along with plenty of oomph courtesy of the advertised bolognese. Unfortunately, the gochujang was almost nonexistent here, though I did appreciate the herbs (fennel, shiso, Thai basil I believe) up top. Overall, a bit muddled I'm sad to say.


no. 718 [$17.00] | rum, fernet, roasted strawberry, ginger, byrrh, lime
Here was a long cocktail named after the birthday of former Bar Manager Connie Kim. It displayed lots of ginger up front, leading to prominent notes of strawberry, with the finish veering ginger-y, bitter, and medicinal. Nice.


lasagna, pork ragu, tofu cream, prickly ash [$25.00]
Naturally, we had to order Nightshade's signature lasagna-mapo doufu mash-up. It was on point texturally, with the egg pasta conveying a delightful suppleness that actually recalled wonton wrappers. I also got a homey, familiar savoriness from the pork ragù that worked with the herbs in the dish. There was also a decent amount of heat, but I wanted more, and also lacking was the amount of mala. In the end, this was a bit too restrained.


szechuan hot quail, japanese milk bread, house pickles [$26.00]
The quail was delicious, coming out crisp, juicy, beautifully seasoned, and showing off plenty of the lingering heat and numbing spice that was missing from the previous dish--I think it did a great job capturing the essence of its Sichuan inspiration. Pickles provided a welcomed hit of acidity to the mix, while the milk bread--though a touch dry--helped even out the strong flavors present.


no. 914 [$16.00] | mezcal, shishito-tequila, genepy, pineapple, lime, black garlic oil
Our final cocktail apparently got its name from the birthday of one of Nightshade's owners, and was arguably the most interesting drink of the night. I found it super smoky, but with a tart, fruity, citric base. The key here, though, was that black garlic oil, which gave the drink a distinctly savory, oily edge that I was rather fascinated by.


black garlic-maple glazed bone-in beef short rib [$108.00 = 36oz x $3/oz]
The meal's pièce de résistance came in the form of a bone-in Omaha Angus short rib, aged in-house for five days, then slow-cooked for over 12 hours. The meat was coated in a black garlic-maple glaze, and accompanied by a bonito-habanero dressing with lime zest, mint leaves, pickles, fermented radish, and Bibb lettuce. I found the rib wonderfully tender and fatty, with a subdued smoke to it that was accented by pricks of salt. The various accoutrements contributed a much-appreciated acidity to things, and the meat was even better when wrapped up in the lettuce, ssam style. That being said, even though the flavors all came together, I kept thinking that the dish would've been even better had there been more smoke, more char character. How about some kimchi on the side, too?


almond sorbet, mandarin ice [$15.00]
Desserts at Nightshade are actually the creation of the restaurant's Chef de Cuisine, and we made sure to try all four on offer. We began with a dish ostensibly inspired by the oranges and almond biscuits (xing ren bing) that often come at the end of Chinese meals. Composed of an almond sorbet with tangerine, topped with curved shards of liquid nitrogen-frozen mandarin juice, the dessert did a wonderful job showcasing the sweet, nutty, surprisingly robust flavors of the almond in concert with tart, refreshing notes of citrus.


coconut mousse, pineapple, coconut lime granita, nata de coco [$16.00]
Humorously, this next dessert was apparently inspired by Harry Nilsson's song Coconut and its famous lyrics: "put the lime in the coconut." Taste-wise, you really did get the interaction between the tartness of lime-pineapple and the tropical sweetness of coconut, all while the nata de coco evened out everything and added some textural contrast. And if you're wondering, the green macaron-looking thing was actually comprised of pineapple chunks surrounded by coconut mousse and a thin layer of passion fruit chocolate.


guava, cream cheese, white chocolate [$16.00]
Topped with a white chocolate disk streaked with charcoal (designed to match the restaurant's marble-topped tables), this minimalist-looking dessert featured a frozen guava mousse along with freeze-dried lychee crumbles and whipped cream cheese. The inspiration here was actually the popular Guava & Cheese Strudel from LA's iconic Porto's Bakery & Cafe. I think it did an admirable job mimicking the flavors of the pastry, showing off lovely tart fruit elements in concert with the lushness of cream cheese. Texturally, there was this nutty crunch present that I really appreciated.


silkened tofu, rhubarb, shiso, basil seed [$18.00]
We ended with the most polarizing dessert of the bunch. This one displayed an intensely herbaceous, somewhat savory flavor profile, with accents in the form of that lemony red sorrel. The tofu worked as a moderating force, but this was certainly on the more contemplative side.

There's been quite a bit of hype surrounding Nightshade, and the restaurant is definitely showing promise at this early stage. There's a lot of smart, inspired cooking going on here, and I have to say that I was quite smitten at how, in many instances, Lin was able to so effectively fold in and integrate a variety of culinary influences. That being said, there were certainly a couple things that missed the mark, and so there's still room to grow. Methinks this is a place that'll just keep getting better and better as the kitchen gains confidence and experience.

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Otoño (Los Angeles, CA)

March 21, 2019, 8:05 pm

≫ Next: Guerrilla Tacos (Los Angeles, CA)

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Otono Restaurant
5715 N Figueroa St, Los Angeles, CA 90042
323.474.6624
www.otonorestaurant.com
Thu 03/21/2019, 08:05p-10:30p





The last time we caught up with Chef Teresa Montaño, she was still running the kitchen over at Ración, an oft-lauded Spanish spot in Pasadena. However, she left in June 2016 to pursue her own endeavors, and the restaurant wound up closing in January 2018 (and later transformed into the short-lived Dérive). In fall 2017, it was announced that Montaño would be opening up Otoño ("autumn") in Highland Park, in partnership with Vinh Xuan "Vince" Nguyen, a local investor who was also involved with Ración. Described as a "progressive" tapas joint informed by the many culinary traditions of the Southland and inspired by the Chef's various travels (especially to Catalonia and Valencia), Otoño ended up debuting at the start of April last year.



The building that houses Otoño was constructed in 1928 to serve as a five and dime store for S. H. Kress & Co, and functioned as such until 1973. In 1979, Frank and Vera Vacek purchased the structure and turned it into Frank's Highland Park Camera, which closed in 2014. Following, the edifice (which also houses Blind Barber) was purchased by Engine Real Estate and renovated under the Mills Act. Ana Henton designed the warm, colorful Otoño space, which features a mural from Valencian street artist PichiAvo.


Otoño's menu is fairly wide-ranging, and features a good number of time-tested Spanish staples, including paella, as well as some more unconventional preparations. To imbibe, you'll find cocktails by Joshua Suchan, along with beers, ciders, and a Spanish-leaning wine list from Wine Director/AGM Katie Putterlik. Click for larger versions.


Hotel Parador [$12.00] | brown butter washed rum, amontillado sherry, pineapple, lime, bitters
We ordered a few cocktails to begin, and our first definitely showcased the tropical, fruity flavors of pineapple along with brown buttered rum. There was also this lingering bitterness present, though I got surprisingly little from the amontillado.


Jamón Iberico de Bellota [$20.00] | purebred pata negra by cinco jotas
A classic starter of jamón ibérico de bellota didn't disappoint thanks to the ham's slick 'n' sticky consistency and nutty, savory, fatty flavors. As for the included bread, it was actually quite a bit better than expected, with a nice crustiness to it.


Pan con Tomate [$6.00] | sourdough, grated tomato, garlic, olive oil, sea salt
The pa amb tomàquet was one of the tastier renditions I've had. I especially appreciated the smoky char on the bread and how that paired with the tartness of tomato. Delicious when taken with the ham above, too.


Bamboo [$12.00] | amontillado sherry, tinto vermouth, mushroom bitters
Otoño's take on this classic late 19th century cocktail was to my liking, with its robust dark fruit and oxidative notes cut by just the right amount of bitterness.


Chorizo Iberico de Bellota [$15.00] | pata negra by fermin
Chorizo made from jamón ibérico de bellota was somewhat fattier than usual, with a perfect balance of smoke and spice.


Croqueta de Setas y Maiz [$6.00] | fritter of wild mushroom, sweet corn and goat milk
These croquettes were super creamy--I'm guessing due to the goat's milk--and conveyed the sweetness of corn at first, while woodsy flavors of mushroom came in later.


GTLA [$15.00] | Future gin, citrus tonic, botanicals
This gin and tonic variation was a bit more interesting than usual due to the incorporation of locally-made Future gin, which had your classic botanicals flavors but also some more unexpected fruitier, nutty elements.


Crudo [$16.00] | wild eastern scallop, fennel, parsnip, herb & ocean broth
Scallops arrived fresh, supple, and perked up by the zestiness of fennel. However, the parsnip I felt was just far too sweet, and detracted from the dish; I needed some more acidity to balance it out.


Croqueta de Jamon [$6.00] | fritter of jamon serrano and organic milk
Ham-filled croquetas were perfectly crisp on the outside, as creamy as I wanted on the inside, and really hit the spot.


No Toro [$15.00] | Yola mezcal, aperol, Lacuesta vermut, habanero bitters
This next cocktail had a nose brimming with smoky sweetness, while its palate veered decidedly fruity, but with the mezcal again peeking through, the whole thing finishing strong with bitterness and heat.


Churros de Patatas Bravas [$12.00] | potato churro, salsa brava, garlic aioli
Churros were airy and crisp, with a relatively restrained potato taste, and worked well with the tanginess of the included salsa. I did sort of miss the heftiness and bite of a more traditional papas bravas presentation, though.


Soldadito de Pavia [$6.00] | salt cod fritters, lemon aioli
Small, spherical fritters of bacalao came out piping hot and properly creamy, and showed off the salinity of salt cod in commendable fashion.


Kyoto [$12.00] | white wine, sake, japanese whisky, green tea, lemon
Here was a cocktail from the "sangria" section of the list. I found it soft and easy-drinking, with a subdued fruitiness commingled with palpable tea-like notes.


Gazpacho de Chicharo [$14.00] | english pea gazpacho, beets, berries, rose yogurt
An unconventional gazpacho was bright and sour, with a marked tanginess from the fruit that was offset by the lush, creamy nature of that yogurt.


Setas en Escabeche [$10.00] | house cured wild mushrooms, forest vinegar, shallot, 62° quail egg
Unsurprisingly, vinegar-marinated mushrooms ate tart and acidic, but also conveyed an earthiness underneath. I didn't mind the quail egg here, which added a touch of luxuriousness to the dish.


Rioja Sour [$12.00] | bourbon, lemon, oregano, bay leaf, tomato, egg white, tempranillo float
The evening's final cocktail was a take on the whiskey sour. I found it eggy and mild at first blush, but also coming through were some citrusy and fruity flavors backed by just a smidge of bourbon.


Gambas a la Plantxa [$18.00] | griddled blue prawns, cherry tomato, garlic, brandy de jerez
Prawns were wonderfully seasoned, and displayed a particular depth that was probably due to the incorporation of brandy. I would've liked a snappier, more satisfying texture on the gambas, though.


Turbot Getaria [$20.00] | basque style grilled spanish turbot, green garlic, chili oil
Turbot arrived firm to the bite, with a nice sear and a very noticeable brine. I appreciated the use of green garlic here, but I wanted to taste more from the advertised chili oil.


At this point we moved on to a bottle of wine, the 2016 Partida Creus, SM, Sumoll, Massís de Bonastre, Catalonia [$60]. It had a tart, funky nose filled with fresh red fruit and flowers, one that actually reminded me of what a sour beer might smell like. Taste-wise, I found it acidic and earthy, with more vibrant red fruit leading to a lingering mustiness. Rustic and fascinating.


Pollo Ahumado [$23.00] | marin sun farms smoked chicken thighs, shishitos, green peppercorn mayonesa
Chicken came out as juicy as I was hoping for, and was delightfully smoky and perfectly seasoned. It was one of my favorite dishes of the night, and I liked the intensity of the shishitos here, too.


Arroz - Negra [$32.00] | tinta, scallops, chorizo, lemon cream, dashi
In our final savory, rice came out beautifully textured and thoroughly imbued with brine and umami, while the chorizo added a touch of heat to it all. As for the scallops, they were well-cooked and properly caramelized, with a prominent salinity to 'em. My concern here, however, was the almost complete lack of socarrat.


A small selection of desserts is joined by an array of after-dinner drinks. Click for a larger version.


Crema Catalana [$10.00] | citrus, cinnamon, kumquat
Crema catalana showed off a bevy of floral, herbaceous flavors cut by the tartness of citrus. It was all rather tasty, but I was really missing the caramelized crust of the traditional dessert.


Dark Chocolate Mousse [$11.00] | dulce de leche, olive oil, sea salt
Last up was a super rich chocolate mousse, one amped up even further by the dulce de leche. I will say that I wanted more savory notes from the olive oil.

LA isn't really known for its Spanish restaurants, so I'm definitely glad to have Otoño in town as another option. The place isn't completely traditional, but that's by design. Montaño's menu is rooted in Spanish cookery, but she's not afraid to infuse her food with a distinct Angeleno sensibility. Her experiments don't always work out fully, but by and large we were quite happy with the food we had tonight.

Guerrilla Tacos (Los Angeles, CA)

March 22, 2019, 7:55 pm

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Guerrilla Tacos
2000 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.375.3300
www.guerrillatacos.com
Fri 03/22/2019, 07:55p-11:05p





The last time I reported on Guerrilla Tacos, it was late 2014, and Chef/Owner Wesley Avila still has his truck parked outside of the now-shuttered Blacktop Coffee. Much has happened since then. By 2015, the truck had become so popular that Avila had to find a partner to handle the operations side of things. Said partner came in the form of Brittney Valles (not to be confused with Brittany Valles, former CdC at ink), an alumna of Sprout Group and Blue Bottle.

On August 19th, 2016, the evening of Guerrilla Tacos' four-year anniversary party, it was announced that the roving restaurant would be finding a permanent home in the Arts District. The next February, Avila was deemed a "Best Chef: West" Semifinalist by James Beard, while in July it was revealed that GT would be taking over the former home of La Reyna on 7th Street (though some reports stated that it'd be part of the new Arrive DTLA hotel, which never materialized). October 2017, meanwhile, saw the release of Avila's cookbook, Guerrilla Tacos: Recipes from the Streets of L.A. from Ten Speed Press. The Guerrilla Tacos truck stopped serving for good on July 19th, 2018, and the long-awaited restaurant grand-opened a week later.



Guerrilla Tacos takes over the old La Reyna Deli Restaurant, across the street from Everson Royce Bar. The space was redone by local firm Do Good Work Corp, and sports a lively aesthetic that pays homage to LA street art. In a corner booth, do also note the stencil of Jonathan Gold, who actually passed away just days before the restaurant opened.


As expected, the menu is anchored by a selection of Avila's Los Angeles-inspired tacos, but you'll also find a number of accompanying dishes as well as daily specials. Delivery is even available via Caviar, somewhat surprisingly. To drink, you get a selection of beer and a smattering of wine, but much more interesting is the cocktail list, which is tiki-leaning, reasonably-priced, and the work of Boyle Heights'Va'La Hospitality (i.e. Aaron Melendrez, Damian Diaz, Othón Nolasco). Click for larger versions.


Hamachi Tostada [$12.00] | hamachi, chile del valle, salsa bruja, winter citrus, & chives
The meal got off to a good start with this tostada. Cuts of yellowtail were meaty and just the right amount of fatty, and paired well with the savory, multifaceted, vaguely Asian flavors of the accompanying "witch sauce." The citrus, meanwhile, offered up a tartness that really lifted the dish.


Brown is Beautiful [$10.00] | Arette Blanco + Reposado, Fernet-Valle, Giffard Madagascar Vanilla Liqueur
Our first cocktail showed off a bittersweet nose filled with notes of cocoa and coffee. Taste-wise, I got more coffee, more bittersweetness, along with notes of mint, dark fruit, and sweet, enveloping vanilla.


Farmer's Market Quesadilla [$17.00] | Oaxaca cheese, arugula, squash blossoms, zucchini flowers, sherry vinegar, fried egg, sesame
A special tonight was this untraditional, open-faced quesadilla. I got loads of bright, bitter, acidic flavors, all bound together by the creaminess of that cheese and runny egg. I quite liked the nuttiness and texture from the sesame here, too.


Pork Char Xui [$5.00] | Cook Pigs Ranch Pork, avocado chile, shaved radish, chives
The pork here wasn't what I was expecting when it comes to char siu, which was a bit unfortunate as a I think a more traditional preparation would've worked better. The meat had this definite porcine funk to it, along with a combination of sweet and savory and a much needed punch of acidity from the avocado salsa. I didn't mind the lightness and crunch provided by the radish, either.


House Margarita [$10.00]
Here we had a commendable rendition of the classic cocktail. I found it really well balanced, and I appreciated how the actual tequila was so front and center.


Potato Taquitos (2) [$5.00] | Yukon gold potatoes, avocado salsa, cotija cheese, aged cheddar, & chives
Guerrilla's take on flautas was a standout for me, and one of the better versions of the dish I've had. The filling of potato was just super satisfying, and matched up like clockwork with the crispness of those tortilla shells. I was a big fan of the brightness and acidity of the salsa up top, while the cheese added a certain coziness to it all.


Cochiloco [$16.00] | Don Papa Rum, SelvaRey White Rum, 151 Lemon Hart & Son, mulled spiced jamaica, pineapple, lemon, lime, aloe cordial, tiki bitters, nutmeg
This Zombie-like cocktail certainly utilized one of the more unconventional vessels I've seen. It sported loads of tropical fruit flavors, as well as a healthy dose of sweet spice and a surprisingly complex finish. The booze, unsurprisingly, was well hidden.


Lamb Taco [$12.00] | gordita, lamb shoulder, labneh, jalapeño tahini, cucumber, onion, sumac
Another special for the night, next was a Middle Eastern-inspired dish that stretched the definition of a "taco." It did a great job showcasing the richness and earthiness of lamb, paired with bountiful amounts of char and smoke. The yogurt-tahini contributed a creaminess that helped bind everything together, and I was a fan of the crunch of those cucumbers as well. My concern here was that the meat could've been juicier, suppler.


Sweet Potato Taco [$4.00] | roasted sweet potato, almond chile, feta cheese, fried corn, & scallions
Next was the taco that apparently helped put Guerrilla Tacos on the map. The key for me was how the sugar content of the sweet potato was tempered. I think the feta did a nice job evening out that sweetness, and even more important was the zestiness provided by the scallions, of which I could've actually used more.


Paging Dr. Rhum [$10.00] | SelvaRey White Rum, Appleton Estates Rum, 151 Lemon Hart & Son, Coco Lopez, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, lime, pineapple, orange
This cocktail was on the soft, smooth, floral, fruity side, with a good amount of coconut in there and a counterbalancing pungency from the lemongrass.


Baja Fried Cod Taco [$5.00] | tempura-battered wild cod, chipotle crema, pico de gallo, chile Japonese, & cilantro
Guerrilla's version of your classic fish taco didn't deviate too much from the norm, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. The fish itself I found well textured, and I enjoyed how that chipotle-laced crema really tied together the various parts of the dish, especially the bitterness from the red cabbage.


Guerrilla Punch [$10.00] | Havana Club White Rum, Clear Creek 2-year Apple Brandy, cold brew sencha spiced tea, grenadine, lemon oleo-saccharum
Our final cocktail was to my liking as well. I actually got a good amount of heat up front, mixed with the fruitiness of grenadine, while spice and tea notes came in later, joined again by more fruit. A nice back-and-forth here.


Sweet Corn Cake [$9.00] | honey whipped butter, macerated seasonal fruit, elote sugar
We ended with the pan de elote, which I'd liken to a more intense version of cornbread, one that definitely emphasized the familiar sweetness of corn. The inclusion of fruit made for a smart, tart accompaniment, and I liked the crispy bits in there for contrast.

Guerrilla Tacos isn't "authentic" in the traditional sense, but it was never meant to be. The point here is that the place is authentically LA. Despite its name, this doesn't really seem like a taqueria, but instead a spot that happens to present a wide ranging array of flavors in a tortilla-based format. Avila's efforts here mostly work, and the restaurant seems like a worthwhile evolution of the Chef's former truck. I wouldn't mind trying more of the menu.

Bowery Bungalow (Los Angeles, CA)

April 2, 2019, 8:30 pm

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Bowery Bungalow
4156 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90029
323.663.1500
www.bowerybungalow.com
Tue 04/02/2019, 08:30p-10:35p





I recently had dinner at Silver Lake's Bowery Bungalow, which had been on my "to-eat" list for a few years now. The modern Mideast spot opened in October 2014, and is the work of former real estate investor and serial restaurateur George Abou-Daoud. Though his company Bowery Street Enterprises, he's responsible for a slew of LA restaurants, mostly centered in the Hollywood area: Tres Sheik (2018), Common Project (2017-2018), Homeward Ground (2017), Farida (2017-2018), Twin Sliders (2013), Urban Garden (2012-2016), Township Saloon (2011-2014), Rosewood Tavern (2011-2016), GelatoVino (2010-2012), District (2010-2011), The Mercantile (2009-2014), Tamarind Avenue Deli (2008), Mission Cantina (2008), Delancey (2008), and last but not least, The Bowery (2005)--whew, I think I got 'em all.


Bowery Bungalow occupies a cozy Sunset Junction cottage that was previously home to the longstanding Thai eatery Sompun (which opened circa 1982 I believe).


There's a nice patio out back, too.


Bowery Bungalow's menu highlights the cuisine of the Middle East and Mediterranean, but with certain liberties taken. Drink-wise, you get a small wine list and an octet of beers. Corkage is $25. Click for larger versions.


We began with a sort of amuse bouche in the form of a vegan lentil soup. I liked it more than I thought I would thanks to its familiar flavors, smart spicing, and pleasant acidity. Humorously, a fellow diner described it as "watery chili."


Fried Cauliflower, Toasted Egyptian Dukkah, Tahini, Cilantro [$12.00]
Cauliflower matched splendidly with the spice of duqqa, while tahini offered up a creamy, nutty counterpoint. My only quibble was that I wanted a firmer texture, more crunch on the florets.


To drink, we had a bottle of the 2004 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut Rosé Vintage. It had an appealing nose filled with strawberry and toast, but with a slight hint of oxidation. Taste-wise, I got more toast and subtle berry at first, joined by a bright acidity and minerals, while the back end showcased more rich, lingering fruit. Nicely matured, though still quite vivacious.


Chicken Tawook Shishkatori [$12.00] | Savory Mideast-Seasoned Shish Kabobs served in Traditional Japanese Yakitori Style
Skewered chicken was an absolute delight, coming out supple and super juicy, with the perfect amount of seasoning and a healthy dosing of smoke and char. It was delicious alone, but even better with a dab of the included toum (garlic condiment). This was my favorite dish of the night, better than most yakitori out there, and quite possibly the best chicken kebab I've ever had.


Spicy Potato, Harissa, Cilantro, Lemon, Feta Cream [$12.00]
The restaurant's take on batata harra delivered as well. The potatoes were hearty and substantial, with a proper crispness to 'em, while flavors were spicy, sour, and satisfying. I also appreciated the moderating effect provided by the feta, as well as the punch of acidity imparted by the lemon.


Turmeric Fried Rice, Chicken, Organic Egg, Chickpeas, Golden Raisins, Almonds, Chilies [$13.00]
This next dish was a fun one, and was sort of like a mash-up of Persian polo and Chinese chaofan. It was a light, delicate preparation, one showcasing nutty, fruity notes and the zestiness of scallion, all while being grounded by a combination of chicken 'n' egg.


Hummus bi Tahini, Crisped Chickpeas, EV Olive Oil, Beef Cheek Kawarma [$18.00]
Tender, well-spiced cuts of beef cheek showed off a bevy of dark, savory flavors, and married well with the relative mildness of the hummus. The herbs up top added a necessary brightness to the mix, and I appreciated the textural contribution from those crunchy garbanzos. Make sure to eat this with the provided pita.


With the wine all drunk up, we sampled the Pomegranate Sangria [$10], which definitely highlighted the tart, dry, astringent character you get from the fruit.


Spiced Beef Tenderloin Shishkatori [$14.00] | Savory Mideast-Seasoned Shish Kabobs served in Traditional Japanese Yakitori Style
Although the beef kebab wasn't quite as revelatory as the chicken variant above, it was still thoroughly enjoyable. I found the meat surprisingly tender and expertly seasoned, with a good amount of smoke and a nice herbiness on the back end.


Pan Seared Branzino, Cauliflower, Herb-Roasted Beets, Charred Beet Root [$27.00]
Branzino conveyed a refined brine, while its crispy skin was a joy to eat. Cauliflower worked as an effective contrast to the fish, but I really didn't need (or want) the beets here.


Cardamom Rice Pudding, Local Honey, Vanilla Bean, Seasonal Fruit [$8.00]
The rice pudding met expectations, and had this pervasive, warming spice that linked up well with the sweetness of the honey.

I had a surprisingly strong meal at Bowery Bungalow, and I'm really glad I finally made it out. The cooking is definitely grounded in the Levant, but it's not strictly traditional, which is key. You get dishes that are clearly Middle Eastern-inspired, but which you probably would never encounter in the actual Mideast, and that's not a bad thing in this case. This place seems like the most personal of Abou-Daoud's restaurants, and I'm hoping it'll stick around longer than most of his other projects.

Tesse (West Hollywood, CA)

April 18, 2019, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Yamaya Japanese Wagyu & Grill (Torrance, CA)

≪ Previous: Bowery Bungalow (Los Angeles, CA)

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Tesse Restaurant
8500 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069
310.360.3866
www.tesserestaurant.com
Thu 04/18/2019, 08:30p-11:20p





So Bill Chait's back. If you're not familiar with Chait, he was the main guy behind restaurant group Sprout LA and a driving force in many of LA's most notable openings of the past ten years, places like Bestia, Republique, and Sotto, among others. However, he had a falling out with his partners at Sprout, and ended up leaving the company at the end of 2015. Following, he joined the team at San Francisco's vaunted Tartine Bakery and helped open the first Tartine Manufactory in August 2016. In mid-2017, it was revealed that the Manufactory would be making its way down to Los Angeles, while Tesse was announced shortly afterward.

Tesse, which is short for délicatesse ("delicacy"), apparently came to fruition through the efforts of Evolution Media, an investment firm backed by Creative Artists Agency. Evolution Media is a minority owner in Fred Segal, and tapped Chait to create a restaurant next to Fred Segal's flagship store at the new 8500 Sunset development. Though the lease for the space was signed back in '16, the French-inflected spot only ended up debuting in June last year. At the helm here is Executive Chef & Partner Raphael Francois.

About the Chef: Francois grew up in Belgium and France, and got interested in cooking after watching his grandparents in the kitchen while he was living with them in Tournai. By the age of 16, he had started working in restaurants as a way to make his own money. One of his first jobs was at Tournai's Restaurant Giverny, and he also cooked at Sea Grill and the longstanding Comme Chez Soi in Brussels. From 1995 to 1997, he worked on a degree in hotel management, then went on to achieve his Culinary Certificate. Francois also has experience at Château du Mylord in Ellezelles and Maison de Boeuf in Bruxelles, and from there, he relocated to Paris. In January 1999, he started as a chef de partie at the Four Seasons Hotel George V, a position that lasted until the following May. He then became sous chef at Lenôtre before transitioning to Hôtel de Crillon and its Les Ambassadeurs restaurant in January 2001.

After two years, Francois went to work for a hotel company, and during his tenure there, spent time with Eric Jan at Château de Curzay and Chalet d'Adrien, two countryside establishments. After two more years, he left to become Executive Chef at Loges de l'Aubergade in Puymirol, where he stayed for a year. In February 2006, the Chef moved back to Paris to take over the kitchen at Hélène Darroze's eponymous eatery, during which time he also helped with her other projects. Francois' next move was to London in April 2008, where he took on the Exec Chef role at Darroze's restaurant at The Connaught hotel. He remained there until December 2012, and later relocated to New York at the tail end of 2013. Stateside, he worked as Executive Chef at the iconic Le Cirque until January 2016, then moved to DC to become a partner at contemporary bistro Le DeSales, which opened in March 2017. Francois joined the Tesse team shortly after.

Francois is joined in the kitchen by Executive Pastry Chef & Partner Sally Camacho Mueller. We first encountered her at WP24 back in 2010. Since that time, she's competed on Season 2 of Top Chef: Just Desserts, where she was runner-up to eventual winner Chris Hanmer. In September 2011, she helped open Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air, but would end up leaving the Puck empire a year later to serve as Executive Pastry Chef of the Jonathan Club. That gig lasted until the start of 2015, and in May that year she became an instructor at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Napa Valley. Camacho Mueller left the CIA in August 2016, and later joined the team at Tesse the following August.

Also on board as a Partner is Jordan Ogron, who handles the wine side of things and works the FOH. Starting in 2008, he cut his teeth at John Sedlar's Rivera, working as a manager and sommelier. During his time there, he also consulted for the now-shuttered Fraiche in Santa Monica. In August 2010, Ogron moved to Fig & Olive, where he started as AGM, then became Wine Director, GM, and Service Director. From there, he helped open Bestia in November 2012 as General Manager, and soon after, consulted for Short Order. September 2013 saw him move to The Standard in Hollywood, while he transitioned to the Hakkasan Group in June the following year, where he focused on both Hakkasan Beverly Hills as well as Herringbone in Santa Monica. Work on Tesse, meanwhile, began in September 2016.


Attached to Tesse is Boutellier, a wine shop curated by Ogron that ostensibly concentrates on harder-to-find selections that don't overlap much with the restaurant's wine list. The room can also transform into a private dining area, if necessary. Wines purchased at Boutellier may be opened at Tesse for a $15 corkage fee, with no limit on the number of bottles.


Tesse was penned by Preen Inc.'s Alexis Readinger, who was also responsible for the likes of Howlin Ray's, Odys + Penelope, Hatfield's, and Akasha, among others. It's a multifaceted, multitextured space, modern and warm at the same time.


Tesse's wide-ranging, French-inspired menu is on the lengthier side, headlined by charcuterie/cheese, but with plenty of smaller plates, pastas, and mains, too. Drink-wise, there are Gallic-ish cocktails by none other than the team of Nick Meyer and Julian Cox. If wine's you're thing, there's a pretty substantial list put together by Ogron, one featuring "half-glass" pours. Getting wine doled out in 3-ounce portions is refreshing for diners, and probably more profitable for the restaurant. Meanwhile, corkage is $30 a pop for your first two bottles, then $50 for the next two, with a four bottle maximum. Click for larger versions.


Three Monk Buck [$15.00] | chartreuse, benedictine, pear, ginger, lemon, sparkling perry
We ended up going through a number of cocktails this evening. Our first really showed off the zestiness of ginger up front, which was then joined by fruity, bitter flavors and more lingering burn on the back end.


Beef Tartare "A l'Huile d'Olive" [$16.00] | caper berries, shallots, Grana Padano, chive aioli
The tartar was lovely. I found the meat satisfyingly textured and well matched to the heft of the cheese. Caper berries and shallots imparted an offsetting tanginess that worked, while the chip on the bottom gave us some needed crunch.


Filipineau [$15.00] | pineau des charentes 10 year, tequila blanco, pineapple 3 ways, umeboshi, lime
This tiki-ish cocktail conveyed strong flavors of pineapple alongside classic notes of sweet spice. I got very little booziness here, which I guess wasn't surprising.


Caviar Toast [$25.00 x 2] | Siberian white sturgeon, purple potatoes, crème fraîche
These were essentially canapés, and displayed the strong, unmistakable brine of caviar, but tempered by the lushness of crème fraîche. The potato added some salt to the mix, while the bread contributed both texture and a smoky char.


Charred Cauliflower [$14.00] | harissa, cucumber, pomegranate
This was a smart take on cauliflower, one that married the relatively mild flavors of the veggie with smoke, bitterness, and fruit, all tied together by that creamy harissa-infused yogurt. I would've liked a slightly crisper consistency on the florets though.


Cardi Beet [$15.00] | tequila reposado, habanero, golden beet, citrus
Our next cocktail definitely showcased the unmistakably earthy, vegetal sweetness of beet, but cut by the booziness of tequila and the heat of habanero.



We ended up getting four types of charcuterie, which were plated on one board along with mustard and a stone fruit chutney. On the side was some charred bread.


Melon Degeneres [$15.00] | mezcal, floc de gascogne, cantaloupe, herbes de provence
This delightfully punny cocktail showed off a great back-and-forth between juicy, sugary cantaloupe and the smoky, astringent nature of mezcal, all while the ham added a hit of salt to the fray.


Saucisse Seche de Lyon [$12.00] | aged pork & beef, garlic
Our first sausage showed off a pleasantly soft, supple consistency along with some mouthwateringly intense flavors, primarily concentrated on the pork. I found this especially tasty when taken with the mustard.


Pate du Chef [$16.00] | pork, green peppercorn
This classically-leaning pâté hit the spot with its delightfully porky flavors, augmented by pops of salt, herb, and a strong finish of peppercorn.


Deux Carre [$15.00] | bonded rye whiskey, cognac, calvados domfrontais, genepi, 5 year madeira, vermouth
Here we had a take on the classic Vieux Carré cocktail. It had a pleasant nose filled with sweet, almost candied citrus. The palate was definitely on the boozier side, with notes of apple giving way to plenty of bitter, botanical elements.


Franche-Comté [$16.00] | comte cheese, smoked bacon
Our second pâté packed a punch with its rich, robust, almost liver-y flavors, all balanced out by a pervasive herbaceousness.


Weird Bonal Yankovich [$15.00] | bourbon, bonal, purple carrot, maraschino, lemon
Here came another fun, punny cocktail. This one was loaded with fruity, apple-like notes commingled with the vegetal sweetness of carrot, but also had a very noticeable bitterness.


Saucisse de Muscadet Confit [$12.00] | aged pork, white wine
This sausage was the most surprising item of charcuterie we sampled. It arrived warm-ish, while its texture was soft and smooth, but also meaty and gratifying. Flavors were relatively subdued, though I did detect a growing, lingering spice.


Lobster Sausage [$21.00] | Maine lobster, duck fat fries, beurre blanc
This reimagined boudin blanc was filled with bits of lobster infused with strong, anise-like notes. It was decently tasty, though lacking in texture unfortunately. Speaking of texture though, the potatoes did work as a counterpoint to the sausage, adding some salt and heft to the mix.


Telemaque Fizz [$15.00] | rhum agricole, calvados, lemon, egg white, genepi
Topped with a soothing layer of egg white, our next cocktail masterfully blended rum and apple brandy in a sweet, easy-drinking package.


Blue Crab Simplissime [$19.00] | whipped potatoes, tarragon, cognac
Now this was a preparation of crab that I'd never encountered before. I found the dish buttery and rich, with a very noticeable sweet spice element and a marked pungency from the tarragon. The potatoes tried to moderate everything, but unfortunately the actual crab was too masked for my liking.


Hypertonic [$15.00] | French sorrel, pineapple, ginger, gin, lime, tonic
A pleasantly green-hued cocktail drank sweet and herby and bright. There was a good amount of pineapple present, while the finish was really all about the spiciness of ginger.


Crispy Pig Ears [$18.00] | french peas, shallot, chiffonade, apples
Pig ears came out crunchy and salty, just as I wanted, while those sweet, beautifully-textured peas worked swimmingly as a counterpoint. I appreciated the freshness from the apples, too.


Pappardelle [$24.00] | braised rabbit, dry plums, beer ragout
Time for some pasta. Sheets of pappardelle were slick and supple, and made sense with the homey flavors of slow-cooked rabbit. I will say that I didn't get much from the plums here.


Démodé [$15.00] | bourbon, amer nouvelle, maraschino, china-china
Now this was a well put together cocktail. Its nose was actually surprisingly restrained, with pome fruit commingled with some alcoholic heat. On the palate, I found it very spice-forward, but with supporting notes of fruit, bitterness, and herbs.


Bucatini with Bone Marrow [$21.00] | duck prosciutto, shallots, parsley, balsamic
Bucatini came out with a pleasantly firm texture. Shallots and parsley gave the dish a bit of brightness, but the key for me was the duck, with contributed salt, savor, and contrast. I didn't even need the marrow, which seemed a tad superfluous.


Tea Time [$15.00] | Japanese whisky, irish whiskey, fennel tea, suze
What struck me here was how this cocktail smelled. It actually reminded me of children's breakfast cereal, Trix in particular, which was surprising. In terms of taste, I got lots of sweet, juicy apple notes, commixed with the potency of the whiskies and a touch of vegetal bitterness.


Octopus [$19.00] | chorizo, aquarello rice, squid ink, lemon
This was the weakest course of the night for us. The octo itself was well-seasoned and well-textured, but the dish was just far too salty. I'm not sure if it was the squid ink or the chorizo or something else that was the problem, but some of my dining companions had trouble even finishing a modestly sized portion of the rice.


Black Truffle Linguini [$42.00] | cacio e pepe, Melanosporum truffles, black peppercorn, romano
For our final pasta dish, we had properly al dente strands of linguini, paired with flavors of truffle, cheese, and pepper. It's hard to go too wrong with that combination.


Compagnon [$15.00] | green chili vodka, cherry tomato, nasturtium, tarragon, lemon, grapefruit, mellow habanero
There was a lot going on in this cocktail, but the overall effect was a very "green" sort of flavor profile, one moderated by the presence of fruit and accented by just a smidgen of heat.


"Epigramme" of Lamb [$33.00] | 7 hours confit, fried garlic, persillade, barley, roots
Our final savory was this interestingly-monikered preparation of lamb. The meat was falling-off-the-bone tender, though I wasn't as keen on its taste, which veered bitter, spicy, oily, and underseasoned, though all the greenery did help even things out.


Mad Real [$15.00] | banana cognac, black strap, demerara
We ended with the most polarizing cocktail of the evening. The drink smelled of banana and botanicals, while taste-wise, I got more banana of course, along with notes of spice, wood, and brown sugar. I found it all rather fascinating.


Banana Cream Pie [$14.00] | vanilla custard, cremé, cocoa nib, white chocolate chantilly
Dessert time. I'm a fan of banana cream pies in general, so I really enjoyed this, especially the caramelization on the fruit and the nutty, crunchy bits present. It did an admirable job recalling the classic dessert while keeping things fresh. Note that the dish was comped, probably because we'd ordered so much food.


Chocramel [$13.00] | milk chocolate, honey caramel, peanuts
We had here a time-tested combo of chocolate and peanut butter, but with some interesting textures going on. A bit candy bar-like I'll say.


Apple Pie [$12.00] | ginger glacé, caramel
The apple pie met the mark, giving off a classic flavor profile at its core, but with some robust ginger and spice keeping things interesting.


Duck Egg Crème Brûlée [$12.00] | muscovado, market berries
This was one of the most venturesome versions of crème brûlée I've had, thanks to its more savory, more smoky, more bitter flavors. Nice crunch from the tuile-like tube on the top, too.


Citrus and Bubbles [$13.00] | grapefruit semi-freddo, nitro champagne, thai basil
Last up was the most divisive of the desserts. Think intense, bracing, in-your-face notes of citrus fruit, laced with the pungency of Thai basil and set over a surprisingly boozy, acerbic base of frozen bubbly. I didn't mind it, but you might.

Tesse is situated in a part of WeHo that's not exactly well known for its culinary merit. The restaurant hopes to change that perception, and I think they're making some headway. The food is pretty easy-going at its core, but you can tell that there's a measure of ambition in the cooking. Much of what we ate delivered, though there was certainly a fair share of misfires as well, and I think part of the issue is that the kitchen might be trying to do too much. I counted a whopping 67 items on the menu, so I do think some rationalization is in order here.

Yamaya Japanese Wagyu & Grill (Torrance, CA)

April 28, 2019, 8:25 pm

≫ Next: Alameda Supper Club (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Tesse (West Hollywood, CA)

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Yamaya Japanese Wagyu & Grill
2529 Pacific Coast Hwy, Torrance, CA 90505
310.257.1800
www.hakatayamaya.com
Sun 04/28/2019, 08:25p-10:15p





I'm quite the fan of yakiniku, and Yamaya was pretty much the last place I needed to check off my list for the South Bay. The restaurant opened at the start of 2010 as Hakata Yamaya, and was more of a wide-ranging, izakaya-style spot. However, the place was renovated, reconceptualized, and renamed in the middle of 2017, and the result was a more focused restaurant with much higher quality meat. Note that this place is associated with Yamaya USA, Inc, a meat and seafood wholesaler.


Yamaya is located in the Rolling Hills Plaza strip mall, at an address that was previously home to Sansui-Tei (which was actually run by the same owner as Yamaya), Furasato, and Bangkok Avenue. The interior's about what you expect.


Unsurprisingly, the menu is focused on beef in various forms and formats, though there's also an array of accompanying dishes as well as nabe. Note that genuine Japanese wagyu (usually from Miyazaki Prefecture, but sometimes Kagoshima or Kumamoto) is offered, which is a nice touch and what we went for this evening (in the form of the "Japanese Wagyu Set"). Click for larger versions.


In terms of beverages, you get your usual Japanese beers, shochu, sake, and a brief wine list. Corkage is $20 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Washugyu Sashimi with Smoked Shoyu [$12.00]
We began with a complimentary serving of Tajima wagyu-Black Angus hybrid sashimi, sourced from Yamaya's own farm in Oregon (Lindsay Ranch). Taken alone, the meat ate clean and mild, with a chewy consistency. The key, though, was to make use of the included soy sauce, which had a wonderful smoky character to it that paired superbly with the beef. I found this particularly good with the wine below, as it tended to soften the Shafer.


Yamaya Original Salad [$9.00]
The salad served as a welcomed respite from all the meat we were having. I especially appreciated the use of wakame here, as well as all the crispy fried bits on top.




Rib Cap
We were instructed to start with the rib cap, which was the leanest of the four wagyu cuts we had. I found it really well balanced, with classic beef flavors joined by a healthy dosing of fat. This was great with a smidge of char and a sprinkle of salt.


To drink, we had a bottle of the 2004 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon One Point Five. I got a vivid nose brimming with violet and berries, along with a marked tannic character and a meaty, musty element. The palate was thick and chewy, a uncommonly concentrated wine showcasing dark fruit, forest floor, tobacco, robust tannins, and a slight heat on the long, long finish. Pretty impressive--this one is drinking quite well now.




Short Rib
The karubi smelled fantastic, and was a luxurious eating experience and a definite step up in fattiness and richness from the cut above. My dining companion likened this to a beef "toro," and noted how easily the meat left a sheen of oil on the lips, though the meat was never overwhelming. Try this with a bit of grilled white onion.




Chuck Flap
Taken from around the neck area of the cow, the zabuton represented yet another notch up in the decadence scale. This cut was notable for its massive amounts of umami. In fact, it almost had a briny taste to it, one that linked up really nicely with more of that grilled onion. We also tried the smaller pieces on the side completely raw, sashimi style. Compared to the washugyu above, this was considerably fattier, yet still relatively restrained flavor-wise. It really opened up with a dab of salt.


Our combo came with an assortment of veggies, which worked as a welcomed contrast to all the beef.




Ribeye
Last up was the rib shin. Thanks to its thickness and more substantial texture, I found this the most satisfying of the cuts we tried. It also took well to searing and caramelization, making for a thoroughly enjoyable course that was heightened even further by the application of salt and wasabi.


We concluded with a piping hot cup of roasty hojicha.

As stated above, Yamaya was the really the last yakiniku joint I wanted to try in the Torrance area, and I'm happy I finally made it out. I had an enjoyable experience here, and I really appreciated the ability to have real deal wagyu, which was pretty fantastic this evening. For all you Japanese BBQ fans out there, this place is certainly worthy of consideration.

Alameda Supper Club (Los Angeles, CA)

April 30, 2019, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Sushi I-Naba (Manhattan Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: Yamaya Japanese Wagyu & Grill (Torrance, CA)

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Alameda Supper Club at The Manufactory at ROW DTLA
757 S Alameda St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.375.3315
www.alamedasupperclub.com
Tue 04/30/2019, 08:15p-11:10p






The road to Alameda Supper Club begins with bread baker Chad Robertson and pastry chef Elisabeth Prueitt. After running Bay Village Bakery in Point Reyes Station in the late 1990s, the husband-and-wife team founded Tartine Bakery in San Francisco's Mission District in 2002. The place quickly became a hit, and spawned an offshoot called Bar Tartine in 2005 and an eponymous cookbook in 2006. In 2008, the duo won the "Outstanding Pastry Chef" award from James Beard after being nominated for it the previous two years. Given the success of the brand, expansion made sense. A location was supposed to open in Tokyo in 2015, but never materialized. However, things sped up at the start of 2016, when LA restaurateur Bill Chait joined the Tartine team as managing partner.

The 5,000ft² Tartine Manufactory opened in August that year inside San Francisco's Heath Ceramics factory, and in August 2017, it was announced that the Tartine folks would be partnering up with Chris Kronner to take over Henry's at the Graduate Berkeley hotel. Then, in October 2017, Tartine debuted for the first time in LA, in the form of a small cafe situated inside the flagship Fred Segal store at 8500 Sunset. Meanwhile, noted barman Julian Cox joined the team that December. January 2018 saw the launch of Tartine Bakery in Seoul, while smaller outposts opened at the Ryse Hotel and SSG Food Market in April and December that year, respectively. The Manufactory Food Hall, a small collection of eateries at SFO, bowed in January this year.

For The Manufactory LA, the Tartine team has partnered with Chris Bianco of Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, who happens to be a friend of Robertson's. The long-awaited, 40,000ft² space opened at the end of January and features multiple concepts in one. The complex is headlined by Tartine Bianco, an all-day eatery that highlights Tartine's iconic bread products. There's also the Market, which sells specialty food as well as casual eats, not to mention the self-explanatory Ice Cream + Coffee Window. However, we were here specifically for Alameda Supper Club, a dinner-only spot sporting Cal-Italian fare. ASC opened on March 17th, and is ostensibly the most Bianco-influenced part of The Manufactory. Day-to-day duties, meanwhile, are handled by Chef de Cuisine Lee Foden-Clarke, a native of Cornwall who worked at Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 before becoming a sous at Bouchon in Beverly Hills. Curiously, a former Bouchon colleague, Camden Hershberger, is actually the CdC at Tartine Bianco.



Alameda Supper Club is located on the southern edge of The Manufactory, on one side of a kitchen shared with Tartine Bianco (though do note that there's another kitchen downstairs used for most of the prep work). In addition, ASC boasts a private dining room that holds up to 14 diners, while you'll also find a substantial patio space as well, replete with its own bar.


The menu's pleasingly compact, and features The Manufactory's most elevated cuisine in a mix-n-match format. Drink-wise, there are cocktails from Julian Cox, as well as a wine selection chosen by none other than Taylor Parsons, who's probably most known for his work at Republique. Click for larger versions.


Oysters [$15.00] | celtuce mignonette, chive oil
Kusshis were fresh and briny, their salinity working well with the brightness of the mignonette while I detected an unexpected hint of heat on the finish.


Celine Dijon [$16.00] | pineapple mostarda, tequila reposado, lillet blanc, seltzer
The delightfully punny cocktail showcased sweet pineapple at first, which then led to a pungent mustard finish laced with herbs. Very neat.


Cheddar & smoked ham toast [$7.00]
A combination of cheese and ham displayed a familiar, deeply satisfying savoriness, one accented by a well placed bit of smoke and the toastiness of the bread. And if you're wondering, I believe those were dehydrated speck shavings on top.


Biscotti Pippen [$13.00] | biscotti, rye, vermouth, bitters
Next came one of the best-monikered cocktails of the year. It smelled super sweet and nutty, while the palate went boozy and bitter at first, with sugary, almond-y flavors coming in later. Curiously, I found this almost beer-like at times.


Ravioli [$24.00] | english peas, ricotta
Fluted ravioli showcased the sweet, bright nature of the peas, seamlessly paired with the creaminess of ricotta. I believe there was a bit of citrus in here as well, which worked as a zippy accent to the pasta.


Spaghetti [$26.00] | dungeness crab, green garlic, chile de árbol
My favorite dish, though, was the spaghetti. The pasta arrived superbly textured, while the sweet, oceany flavors of crab were definitely highlighted. Green garlic functioned as an effective contrast, but my favorite part just might've been that tingling heat on the back end.


Apricot Sour [$15.00] | apricot 4-ways, hazelnut, japanese gin, egg white
A variant of the classic sour cocktail delivered with its sweet, floral, fruity flavors, set against a background of botanicals and a smidge of citrus.


Risotto [$20.00] | pearl barley, turnip, sumac
A nutty barley risotto was my least favorite dish this evening, as I felt it lacking compared to a rice-based preparation. It was just missing the creaminess and luxuriousness of the traditional dish, and I found the tartness of the sumac rather monotonous. I did like the crunch and contrast provided by the turnip, though.


Dilly Ocean [$14.00] | hata's dilly brine, lime, aquavit, young genever
This was definitely the most polarizing of our cocktails. I got an intense nose of anise and brine that was on the bracing side. The taste was sweet at first, while notes of caraway from the aquavit came in later, joined by a citric tartness.


Bream [$32.00] | fennel, agretti
Bream was super flavorful, and had a wonderfully crisp skin to boot. The agretti served as a workable counterpoint to the fish, and I didn't mind the fennel, either. My only concern was the purée (parsnip?), which veered overly sweet.


Romance Language [$14.00] | mole spices, mezcal, citrus, basil, finochietto, averna
Our final cocktail smelled of astringent dark fruit, with a touch of herb. Taste-wise, I got bittersweet berry fruit and smoky mezcal initially, while the unmistakable flavors of mole came in on the back end.


Black cod [$36.00] | colatura, thyme
Cod ate utterly soft, buttery almost, its relatively restrained flavors perked up by the piquancy of that colatura-enhanced sauce.


Desserts here are the charge of Pastry Chef Leah Chin-Katz, an alumna of the original Tartine Bakery who's also worked at Campton Place, Thermidor, and Spork. Click for larger versions.


Digestif duties were handled by the Cappelletti Sfumato Rabarbaro [$9], an earthy, smoky, spicy, rhubarb-based amaro.


Buckwheat Cannoli [$14.00] | ricotta, sour cherries, pistachios
Cannoli were classic at their core, the creaminess of ricotta meshing beautifully with the pistachios and subtle sourness from the cherries.


To take home: a loaf of Tartine's iconic country bread (I think they'd made too much and were trying to give it away).

Alameda Supper Club's Italian-ish fare makes pretty good sense for the space. The food mostly works at this early stage, though I do hope the kitchen will continue to push things, to be more daring, perhaps even a bit irreverent with the cuisine. I still do need to try the other parts of The Manufactory, and I'm sure I'll eventually make my way through the entire place. As for what's next for the team, Tartine is apparently planning on opening up more spots in LA, with the locations mentioned being Hollywood, Santa Monica, and Silver Lake, so more to come I guess.

Sushi I-Naba (Manhattan Beach, CA)

May 4, 2019, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Cheat Codes 2 at Playground 2.0 (Santa Ana, CA)

≪ Previous: Alameda Supper Club (Los Angeles, CA)

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Sushi Inaba
1300 Highland Ave, Manhattan Beach, CA 90266
310.545.3345
www.sushi-inaba.com
Sat 05/04/2019, 08:30p-11:50p





I'm always curious about new sushi spots in the Los Angeles region, and one that I'd been hearing a lot of chatter about over the past several months is Sushi I-Naba, which is actually part of the Inaba family of restaurants. The place opened back in April 2017 as more of a casual take-out spot, but quickly added high-end omakase dinners to their list of offerings. I believe the original chef was a fellow named Shin-san, but he's since been replaced by one Yasuhiro Hirano (as of August 2018 I believe).

About the Chef: Hirano was born and raised in Kisarazu, Chiba Prefecture. His family was in the seafood business--mom operated a sushi restaurant while dad ran a fish market--and he began learning the trade at age five. He was never formally trained, and after finishing high school in the middle of 1998, moved to the US. At this point, Hirano, seeing all the difficulty that his parents went through, wasn't particularly interested in cooking. He was ostensibly supposed to be a student Stateside, but ended up focusing his efforts mostly on surfing and hanging out with his Japanese friends. In 2000, at the age of 20, he moved back to Japan, embarrassed that he still couldn't speak English. It was around this time when Hirano's father passed away, and he ended up inheriting his dad's prized knife, which sparked a renewed passion in food. He began working at sushi restaurants and saving money, and later moved back to the United States in 2003.

His first post was at Sun & Moon Cafe in Manhattan Beach (at the current site of Little Sister), a middling spot where apparently customers would eat phở at the sushi bar. It was a fun, easy job though, and Hirano would eventually meet a Hawaiian sushi chef there, one who subsequently brought him over to 705 Restaurant in Hermosa Beach, a place that had both a sushi bar and a dance floor, not to mention lots of drugs and a kitchen staff that didn't give a damn. He later moved over to Japonica (then part of the Inaba family), which he managed for nearly 10 years. The Chef then received an offer from Maruhide Uni Club, which he ran for about two years ending in 2015. The head of Inaba group then asked him to return, this time to Inaba Steakhouse, which Hirano renamed WA Dining-Sake and Steak House. In 2018, he was offered the chance to take over Sushi I-Naba, which he accepted, eager to make use of his family's connections to top-notch seafood.


I-Naba inhabits a space that was previously home to Precise Optics (a sunglass boutique) and Nikau Kai (a surf shop). With its mere six seats, it just might be the tiniest restaurant I've ever encountered. The photo above is pretty much it.


Here we see some of Yasu's "mise en place," so to speak. As for the menu, we went for the flagship "I-Naba" omakase at $220 a head. There are also options at $180 ("Umi"), $150 ("Hama"), and $120 ("Nami"), while lunch is even more affordable with its mini-tastings and chirashi bowls.


1: Noresore
Our meal commenced with something that I'd never had before: noresore, or baby conger eel (i.e. anago). The translucent slivers were soft and slick, and possessed a very delicate taste that was accented by the piquancy of the sanbaizu (a blend of vinegar, mirin, and soy sauce). I even ate the shiso on the bottom, which imparted a nice minty finish to the dish.


2: Zensai Moriawase
Here we had a selection of three little bites. Going from left to right:

• Hokkaido Sea Urchin Wrapped in Halibut - The sweetness of the uni was on vivid display, moderated by the fish, which also provided textural contrast. The shiso, meanwhile, made for a bright counterpoint to it all.
• Crab Butter Tofu with Hokkaido Snow Crab - The use of kanimiso resulted in a super earthy, luxuriant tasting "flan" of sorts, one offset by the familiar, sweet brine of zuwaigani.
• Slow Braised Seaweed with Pepper - Kombu no tsukudani was a delight. I found the seaweed sticky and chewy, with a growing, lingering sweetness, as well as very palpable heat from the togarashi. Do note that Yasu-san changes the seasoning of his tsukudani regularly.

To drink, we began with a bottle of the Dassai 23 Junmai Daiginjo, a popular 23% seimaibuai sake produced by Asahi Shuzo out of Yamaguchi Prefecture. I got a racy nose filled with melon and bubblegum, with an undercurrent of ricey nuttiness. The palate was viscous, soft, full-bodied, with robust notes of honeydew, stone fruit, and flowers, cut by a touch of minerality. A classic expression.


3: Kusshi Kaki
A single, perfect Kusshi oyster ate super clean, its refreshing flavors of the ocean working hand-in-hand with the tart, slightly sweet nature of the accompanying ponzu. Try the seaweed on the bottom as sort of a palate cleanser.


4: Hotaru Ika
Firefly squid had a pleasantly "snappy" texture, and showed off what I'll describe as pops of salinity once you bit down on them. The sumiso (miso vinegar) on the side provided a necessary burst of sweetness and savoriness, and once again, the wakame was much appreciated.


5: Sawara no Tataki
Spanish mackerel arrived torched, not directly, but via a cylinder of charcoal, a technique that I don't think I'd ever seen before. In any case, the deep, umami-laden flavors of the fish went great with the subtle smoke imparted by the sear, and I loved the moderating zestiness provided by those onions. Nice minty finish from the chiffonade of shiso up top, too.


6: Kuromaguro Akami
Our parade of nigiri began with bluefin tuna from Spain, aged for seven days according to Yasu-san. It was one of the best pieces of akami I've had. I found a supple, velvety consistency, an umami-rich flavor profile, and a long-lasting savoriness that meshed well with the wasabi present. The rice here was key too, its subdued stickiness and subtle tartness working well as a complement to the fish.


7: Chutoro
The medium toro, meanwhile, came from Japan, and was aged 18 days, as the Chef varies his aging length depending on the neta at hand. This was a very noticeable step up in terms of fat and lusciousness, so the presence of the rice was even more crucial for balance


8: Hirame
Here was one week-aged flounder with ume jouyu. I found the fish surprisingly rich and deeply-flavored, so the tartness of the plum soy actually worked well as an accent piece.


9: Isaki
The unfortunately-named chicken grunt was actually one of the more austere tasting fishes tonight, yet I found it somehow alluring, perhaps because it really showed off the nature of the Chef's shari.



10: Kabu no Soboro-Ni
We had a brief break from the sushi in the form of this simmered turnip with chicken gravy. The dish really showed off the unmitigated essence of the bird, joined by a touch of sweetness, while the crunch and bitterness of the turnip was key for balance. A homey interlude.


Next to imbibe was the Dassai 23 Centrifuge Junmai Daiginjo, which was the same as the bottle above, but with the sake separated from its lees using a centrifuge instead of a hydraulic press. The resultant liquid was actually surprisingly different. The nose was much more muted, delicate, subdued, but still contained a marked sweetness. Meanwhile, I found the mouthfeel noticeably smoother, silkier, almost watery, while I got less fruit and more nuttiness and ricey characteristics. This was very clean, though I do somewhat prefer the bolder, brasher disposition of the original. I will say, though, that the sake definitely got more assertive as it warmed.


11: Tachiuo
Beltfish is a relatively rare sight in LA, and tonight it came seared, with a squirt of lemon and a dash of seaweed salt. This was a real treat, as I loved how the smokiness of the char meshed with the fattiness in the fish, the whole experience punctuated by pinpricks of salt.


12: Hotate no Isobeyaki
Here was Hokkaido scallop done in the style of isobeyaki, which is when grilled mochi is brushed with soy then wrapped in ajitsuke nori. It was an absolute joy to eat, as I was a huge fan of the interplay between the sweetness of the hotategai and the smokiness of the sear, and how that was moderated by the seaweed.


13: Aji
Horse mackerel had a satisfyingly meaty bite to it, along with clean, crisp flavors that matched up superbly with its zippy accoutrements of scallion and ginger.


14: Uni
Hokkaido sea urchin showed off its signature bitterness and minerality at first, but this soon transitioned to a lush, creamy sweetness that we all relished.


15: Gindara no Nimono
Simmered black cod was super buttery, almost decadent in fact, so the zestiness of the accompanying ginger was absolutely crucial.


16: Buri
Late stage yellowtail showed off one of the most gratifying textures of the night--think firm, yet yielding--while its flavors were decidedly savory and robust.


17: Otoro
Aged 28 days, this ultra fatty tuna belly was as luxuriousness as I wanted, throwing a mash-up of brine, fat, and umami all up in my face. It might've been too much had it not been for the excellent contrast provided by the sushi-meshi.


18: Kohada
A beautifully silver sliver of gizzard shad conveyed a forceful, but never overwhelming salinity that I rather enjoyed, and again, the rice was critical here.


19: Kuruma Ebi
The tiger prawn was a large, impressive looking specimen to be sure. I found it wonderfully meaty and plump, as well as delightfully sweet.


With the sake all drunk up, we moved on to wine, specifically the 2002 Piper-Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Rare. It had an intoxicating nose filled with notes of apple, nuts, and sweet brioche. On the palate, I got lots of heady toast, caramel, pome fruit, and a trace of oxidation, along with a nice acidity. This one was definitely showing its maturity, but was far from tasting old.



20: Shabu-Shabu
Our shabu-shabu course consisted of four varieties of fish, with various accompaniments, all cooked in a kami nabe. Counter-clockwise from top:

• Akamebaru - An uncommon sight in LA, the red rockfish had a super meaty consistency, as well as a smoky flavor profile that I quite fancied.
• Buri - Mature yellowtail was a delight, cooking up with a particularly finespun taste and texture.
• Gindara - The black cod, meanwhile, was the most opulent fish here, and matched swimmingly with the tanginess of the ponzu-based dipping sauce.
• Ishidai - Last up was the Japanese knifejaw (or striped beakfish), which I don't think I've had before. I found it on the firmer side, with an almost chicken-like savoriness.

21: Akagai
Ark shell (or red clam) displayed a squishy-yet-substantial consistency, while it tasted strongly of the ocean.


22: Shako
I loved seeing this mantis shrimp, since it's a pretty rare sight around these parts. I'd say this was soft to the bite, as well as super, super sweet, and well matched to the rice.



23: Hamaguri no Ushiojiru
A clear soup really showed off the intrinsic goodness of the clams, and I certainly didn't mind the kelp, either. Very clean tasting, yet sort of profound.


At this point, we had a "bonus" course of sorts when Yasu-san gave us a taste of the konowata (salted, fermented viscera of sea cucumber) that he was working on. Not surprisingly, it was an intense eating experience, and not for everyone. I got lots of salinity, but with a very acerbic quality to it, while there was also an underlying sweetness if you looked hard enough.


24: Gindara
Our final piece of sushi was the black cod, which gave up a perfect combination of smoke and fat, all perked up by the application of yuzu salt.


25: Matcha Mochi
The green tea mochi was among the softest I've had, while its balance of bitterness and sweet, nutty nuances was spot on. I wonder if they make this in-house.

When I first heard about I-Naba, I was a bit skeptical given the restaurant's unexpected location, but make no mistake, this is the real deal. Yasu-san's facility with seafood is hard to beat, as he's able to coax out flavors (and often times, textures) that often remain imperceptible at other sushi joints. As for the shari, the use of akazu is perhaps a bit more evident here, but at the same time, the rice doesn't really call attention to itself, instead serving as a flawless foil in each bite. Service, meanwhile, was also top-notch, both by Yasu-san himself--whom we found charming and enthusiastic--and our server, Yoshi-san. I have no problem placing I-Naba in the top echelon of edomae sushi spots in the Southland; this is a must-try for all your sushi fanatics out there.

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Cheat Codes 2 at Playground 2.0 (Santa Ana, CA)

May 9, 2019, 7:00 pm

≫ Next: Poca Madre (Washington, DC)

≪ Previous: Sushi I-Naba (Manhattan Beach, CA)

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Invitation Only: Cheat Codes 2 at Playground 2.0
220 E 4th St, Santa Ana, CA 92701
714.560.4444
www.playgrounddtsa.com
Thu 05/09/2019, 07:00p-10:10p





Amazingly, it'd been nearly six years since my last meal at Jason Quinn's Playground 2.0. I figured that it was finally time for a revisit, and decided to come back for a unique meal, one featuring dishes from restaurants around the world, recreated as accurately as possible--in the Chef's own words: "pure plagiarism." These are dishes that the team knows already work, hence the name "Cheat Codes." Do note that there was an earlier incarnation of this series back in April 2017.

The inspiration behind Cheat Codes was actually Quinn's own path to becoming a chef. He didn't have any formal training or really any culinary mentors, but wanted to learn, and his way of learning was to read (cook)books. He was able to absorb a lot in this manner, but as a result, sometimes conflated what was an original idea of his with something that he might've been exposed to in a book. Once in a while though, he'd come across a dish that was such a good idea and that was so traceable and inextricably linked to one chef's journey; this is what tonight's dinner was all about. If you're familiar with Corey Lee's In Situ inside the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, Cheat Codes is sort of like that.

Quinn was assisted this evening by Justin Werner (Corton, Per Se, Craft, Colicchio & Sons), Travis Larsh (Ox, Del Frisco's Grille), and Irie Murphy (Orange Hill), while Jonathan Dale handled the FOH and beverage pairings.


We were here for dinner #11 of a total of 18, and above is the menu we received at the end of the meal, listing all 22 featured restaurants and dishes (we were also provided an abbreviated version to follow along with during the course of dinner). Pricing was fixed at $350 a head, which sounds like a lot, but it included beverage pairing, tax, and service (so figure $200 or so for food only). Click for a larger version.


Our welcome cocktail was named Hipster's Paradise, and is apparently sometimes available on draft next door at Playground. Composed of gin, Lillet, and housemade rose hip liqueur, the spritz-slash-gin and tonic hybrid was refreshingly carbonated, and showed off a floral element at first, leading to a touch of bitterness and astringency on the back end. A fitting apéritif.


1: Gaggan, Bangkok, Cheese Porcini Pav
The dinner commenced with a dish from Gaggan Anand's eponymous eatery in Bangkok, which serves progressive Indian fare. We had here a take on the classic pav bhaji, one comprising Tomme de Savoie mixed with dry porcini powder, stuffed in steamed dough. It was a hot, homey sort of bite, with plenty of cheesiness and a properly fluffy texture on the bun. Meanwhile, our beverage pairing for this course (and the next several) was an Oeil de Perdrix, a Swiss rosé that blended strawberry and apple notes with a pleasant toastiness and plenty of acidity.


2: Tickets, Barcelona, Nordic Landscape
From Albert Adrià's Tickets came one of two dishes that, according to Quinn, the kitchen "absolutely nailed." It was a beef tartar, served on a seeded rye chip, with smoked cheese, pickled alliums, fresh dill, and vinegar powder "snow." The meat itself was perfectly textured--springy, supple, yet substantial--and showed off a great depth, one that played off the contrasting juicy, sweet, creamy elements present, while the finish conveyed the lingering tartness of the pickles.


3: Saison, San Francisco, Uni Sourdough Toast
Next was a canapé from Joshua Skenes' Saison, where Werner had staged two years prior. We had here yesterday's sourdough, poached in a butter sauce, then toasted, with housemade shirodashi, aromatics, lime zest, and sea urchin. The roe, unsurprisingly, ate creamy, sweet, and oceany, but was perked up nicely by the citrus. Just as important, though, was the bread, which was simultaneously crunchy yet absolutely saturated with boatloads of umami.


4: Momofuku Ssam Bar, New York City, Apple Kimchi, Maple Labne, Smoked Pork Jowl
This was a dish that, according to Quinn, really shows off David Chang's facility for effectively combining disparate flavors, in this case: Fuji apple kimchi, maple labneh, and smoked pork jowl bacon from Tennessee. I got a superb juiciness from the fruit, while the bacon provided both salt and crunch, and the arugula a zesty accent. The yogurt, meanwhile, worked to bring it all together. Smart and surprisingly cohesive.


5: Yardbird, Hong Kong, Corn Tempura
Yardbird (not to be confused with the restaurant at Beverly Center) is a yakitori-style spot in Hong Kong run by Canadian Matt Abergel, one known for its iconic corn tempura. The fritter was faithfully reproduced tonight, and presented a keen saltiness at first bite, one that soon transitioned to the intrinsic, unmistakable sweetness of corn. Very well textured, and reminiscent of Indonesian corn perkedel. Interestingly, Abergel is apparently planning on opening a place called Chicken and Charcoal in Downtown LA sometime this year.



6: Nightshade, Los Angeles, Hokkaido Scallop, Buttermilk, Lemon Verbena
Mei Lin's Nightshade was the closest, and newest restaurant to be featured tonight, and apparently Quinn and Werner went there with their respective SOs recently and ate the entire menu. In any case, this dish masterfully married the clean brine of scallops with the creamy piquancy of that buttermilk-lemon verbena dressing, all while the close was imbued with gingery heat and herb. A standout dish for me. To pair with this course, we had the Takatenjin Junmai Daiginjo from Shizouka, a rich, full-bodied, super fruity sake that stood up well to the food.


Our next cocktail was a clarified milk punch inspired by strawberry lemonade, one containing mezcal, yellow Chartreuse, and unsurprisingly, strawberry and lemon. I got a nose of smoke and yogurt, while the palate blended strawberry and even more smoke with notes of tart citrus. Soft and smooth.



7: Pujol, Mexico City, Cauliflower, Chicken Skin, Salsa Macha
From Enrique Olvera's standard-setting Pujol came another favorite dish of mine. Fried cauliflower was tossed in fresh lime juice, then set atop salsa macha (roasted peanuts with chipotle), while on top we had crispy chicken skin, red onion, and scallion. Once everything was mixed up, the resulting cauliflower was pretty wonderful, giving up a great nutty, smoky spice offset by the zestiness of the onions. I thoroughly enjoyed the veggie just by itself, but it was even better when wrapped up in a tortilla (made in-house with Masienda masa flour).



8: ARCA, Tulum, Roasted Pepper Tartare
We stayed in Mexico for our next course, but traveled to Tulum's ARCA, a restaurant situated in the jungle from Noma alum Jose Luis Hinostroza. A tartare of fire-roasted pepper was dressed with morita oil, then topped with cured egg yolk and toasted almonds. The end product was a great commingling of smoke and nuttiness, with an unabashedly deep spice from the chilies and a bit of garlickiness on the finish. Nice counterpoint from the grilled sourdough, too.


9: Barr, Copenhagen, Hasselback Potato, Creme Fraiche, Green Garlic, Osetra Caviar
Speaking of Noma, Thorsten Schmidt's Barr is located in the former home of the game-changing Nordic restaurant, and serves cuisine inspired by the North Sea region. Hasselback-style potatoes were pan-fried with green garlic-infused clarified butter, then drizzled with housemade crème fraîche and dolloped with Royal Shassetra caviar from Petrossian. It's hard to go too wrong with these ingredients, and indeed, this was an utterly gratifying mash-up of salty, creamy flavors set over a backdrop of perfectly fried, crunchy tater. Our wine pairing, meanwhile, for this and the next three courses was a 2012 Riesling, one with delectable flavors of ripe tropical fruit balanced by a dry herbaceousness.


10: The Willows Inn, Lummi Island, Smoked Salmon
Yet another Noma connection came in the form of The Willows Inn's Blaine Wetzel, who previously worked as a sous chef there and has really embraced the Noma ideal of using locally-sourced ingredients. Apparently, there was a cook from The Willows Inn who came to stage at Playground, and according to him, the best dish there was this salmon: brined for 37 minutes (at 20%) and smoked for seven hours (never over 105°F) while being glazed with a combination of butter, brown sugar, and verjus. The filet was pretty amazing texturally, coming out all silky and smooth, with a spot on mélange of sweetness and smoke layered over the inherent fattiness of the fish. I found this very familiar, yet so much more than that at the same time--it was a little bit profound, and a favorite dish for a couple of my dining companions.


11: Faviken, Järpen, King Crab With Almost Burnt Cream
The final dish in the Nordic section of our meal came from Fäviken, Magnus Nilsson's remote-but-lauded restaurant in Sweden. This was live king crab (meat removed prior to cooking), brushed with housemade cultured butter, grilled dry a la plancha, then sprayed with ättika vinegar. All this effort made for one of the tastiest renditions of crab I've had, one with a meaty, super gratifying texture and bountiful amounts of sweetness, all cut by a healthy dosing of smoke. As for the cream: start with a super hot cast iron pot, pour in fresh cream, and watch for a perfect relationship of burnt cream on the bottom to heavily reduced cream on top. Once you get the right color, scrape the caramelized lactose from the bottom of the pot and emulsify it back into the reduced cream. The result was a condiment that enhanced, but didn't overwhelm the already smoky nature of the crab. According to Quinn, this was the most expensive bite they've ever served at Playground 2.0, and it tasted like it--a favorite for many of my fellow diners.


12: Inua, Tokyo, Enoki Mushroom Nasturtium Taco
This is the last mention of Noma, I promise (I guess it's pretty apparent that the restaurant has had a major impact on modern gastronomy). Thomas Frebel formerly headed up R&D there, and caught the attention of the Kadokawa Shoten publishing company when he worked at the Noma pop-up at the Mandarin Oriental in Tokyo back in 2015. The company offered him space at their headquarters building in Fujimi, and he thus stayed in Japan following the pop-up and ended up opening Inua in 2018, serving Nordic-inspired food using solely Japanese ingredients. We had here the stem of enokitake, sous vide'd in A5 wagyu beef fat, grilled over binchotan while being seasoned with Yasuo Yamamoto's four-year cedar barrel-fermented shoyu. Following the grill, the mushrooms are brushed with egg yolk (which coagulates) and served atop nasturtium with freshly-grated wasabi. The end result was a super meaty, rich, salty, satisfying presentation of enoki, one that was certainly one of the best morsels of 'shroom I've ever had, with a perfect accent in the form of that wasabi. The Chef mentioned that a previous diner mistook the mushroom for beef, and I could see it--this was one of the most delightful bites of the night for sure. As for the wine for this and the next two courses, we had a grassy, mineral-driven 2015 Puligny-Montrachet, one with a good amount of citrus fruit, toast, and oak.


13: WD-50, New York City (Closed), Shrimp Grits
Next, we paid a visit to Wylie Dufresne's now-shuttered wd~50, which is oft credited for helping popularize molecular gastronomy in the US. A riff on shrimp and grits that Quinn actually ate at In Situ, this was shrimp, put through a meat grinder, cooked in foaming butter with cayenne pepper, ground two more times, warmed in vegetable stock, then finished with butter and freeze-dried corn powder. The end product was a pretty damn reasonable approximation of the classic dish, but with a more pervasive brine from the shrimp, as well as a wonderful lingering heat and herby accent. One of the coziest courses of the night.


14: Den, Tokyo, Dentucky Fried Chicken
The most playful course of the meal came from Den, Zaiyu Hasegawa's "kaiseki with a sense of humor" spot in Shibuya. The "DFC" wasn't straight fried chicken, rather, the crispy wings came stuffed with what I believe was sticky rice, and had a noticeably curry-tinged flavor profile, with plenty of fruity notes to boot. It was reminiscent of Chinese zongzi for me, and I will say that I actually would've liked to have tasted more of the actual chicken.


15: Marea, New York City, Fusilli, Octopus, Bone Marrow
Our sole pasta course came from Michael White's Marea, and blended Italian flavors with non-traditional techniques. This was housemade fusilli with a ragout of baby octopus and red wine, mounted with a large quantity of bone marrow (instead of butter) and sprinkled with herby mollica breadcrumbs. The thing that stood out to me the most was the meatiness and brine of the octo, and how that played with the tartness of tomato and traces of red wine. I actually didn't get that much from the marrow, though I was a big fan of those crispy crumbs on top. And the wine for this and the next couple courses? A 2012 Barolo from the Mosconi vineyard: tannic, with robust fruit, spice, and violet.


Quinn, along with cooks Larsh and Murphy.


16: Bazaar, Los Angeles, Butifarra Senator Moynihan
Our penultimate savory course certainly wins the award for most phallic dish of the evening. The sausage was invented as a special at José Andrés' tapas joint Jaleo in DC, and was named in honor of the late Daniel Patrick Moynihan, a regular at the restaurant. The dish eventually made its way to The Bazaar right here in LA, where I'd actually had it for myself. Butifarra is a Spanish countryside sausage with around 35% fat, but tonight, the fat was removed and replaced with Idiazabal; in addition, the kitchen took some liberties with the pork, and used the secreto cut of jamón ibérico de bellota (the finest pork on the planet by Quinn's estimation). The ensuing sausage was a perfect presentation of pig, and I was enamored with all the char and crispy bits present, as well as how well the meat meshed with the lusciousness of that cheese. A favorite of mine.


17: Asador Etxebarri, Axpe, Guisantes Lagrima
For our final course before dessert, we referenced Victor Arguinzoniz's Asador Etxebarri, Quinn's favorite restaurant. This was Playground's version of their dish of guisantes lágrima, or tear-shaped peas, grilled in their pods over charcoal (five minutes per side), then shucked and served with the juiced pods. The key here was the interplay between the "green" sweetness of the peas and the pervasive smokiness present. They were wonderful texturally too, though I did want a touch more acidity.


18: Contra, New York City, Mandarin, Popcorn
Time for dessert, and our first came courtesy of Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske's Contra in the Lower East Side, a restaurant that, according to Quinn, does a great job at combining flavors that don't seem like they should go together. This was a buttered popcorn mousse with tangerine supremes, malted milk crumble, candied popcorn crumble, and tangerine granita. It was a standout course for me, as I was really a fan of the back-and-forth between sweet, juicy citrus and the almost funky characteristics of the popcorn. Some excellent textural play as well here. All desserts were paired with the 2015 Champalou Vouvray Les Tries, a great, fresh example of the style brimming with racy notes of stone fruit, flowers, and honey.


19: Milk Bar, New York City, Crack Pie
We stayed in NYC for our next course, which featured Christina Tosi's famed Crack Pie (which, unfortunately, was renamed to the prosaic "Milk Bar Pie" in April). I found the treat worthy of its reputation, as its in-your-face flavors of toffee, caramel, and dark fruit satisfied in an almost base sort of manner.


20: L'Pain De Joel Robuchon, Tokyo, Canele
Next up were canelés from Joël Robuchon's eponymous bakery in Shibuya, which apparently are baked for 80 minutes in a copper bowl lined with beeswax, and took three months of R&D at Playground to replicate. They were pretty much spot on though, with their crisp, thick, caramelized crusts giving way to fluffy, custardy, eggy insides.


21: State Bird Provisions, San Francisco, World Peace
State Bird is run by the husband-and-wife team of Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski and serves modern American fare with dim sum-style service. Their signature digestif is this marriage of roasted peanut milk with muscovado simple syrup, which was super peanut-y and tasted almost Snickers-esque.


22: The Restaurant At Meadowood, St. Helena, Chocolate Meltaway
Quinn and Werner aren't huge fans of chocolate, but understand its role as a closer, hence this petit four of sorts from Christopher Kostow's vaunted Napa Valley eatery. It was a chocolate ganache stabilized with two different inverted sugars and finished with a reduction of port wine infused with oak chips and vanilla beans. The sticky treat showed off mounds of dark berry flavors with a hint of savoriness in the background.

This was a thoroughly enjoyable, eye-opening, educational, and sometimes whimsical meal. Given that there was minimal creativity involved with the food (but instead rote replication), I can't give Quinn and his team credit for that, but I can say that the dishes were executed with precision and panache. The Chef was an engaging and ebullient host as well, and reveled in explaining the background of each dish served. As good as the food was though, I left 2.0 a bit saddened, and the dinner sort of threw in our faces all the great restaurants we're missing out on here in LA. On the plus side, I suppose it did give me more ideas on places I need to check out.

Poca Madre (Washington, DC)

May 13, 2019, 8:05 pm

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Poca Madre Restaurant
777 I Street NW, Washington, DC 20001
202.838.5300
www.pocamadredc.com
Mon 05/13/2019, 08:05p-10:25p





My last visit to the Capital was in August last year, and during that trip, I was able to dine at Eric Ziebold's Metier. I asked the staff there for some restaurant recommendations, and one of the places mentioned was Chinatown's Poca Madre, which had just opened. Named after a Distrito Federal term for "cool," the place is the work of Chef/Owner Victor Albisu and serves up his vision of contemporary Mexican cuisine.

About the Chef: Albisu was born in 1975 in Fairfax, VA, and grew up in nearby Falls Church. The son of a Peruvian mother and Cuban father, he first fell in love with cooking thanks to his paternal grandfather Paco, who was a baker back in Cuba and had a penchant for barbeque. At the age of 12, he began working in the butcher shop of his mom's grocery in Alexandria, and would also spend summers at his aunts' Cuban cafeterias in Miami. Albisu attended George Mason University in Fairfax, majoring in Politics and International Relations, and achieved his B.A. degree in 1999. Following, he worked for an international aid organization, but ended up getting bored, and later moved to France. There, he attended Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, finishing up his studies in 2001, and then went to work at Alain Passard's famed l'Arpège.

Albisu soon returned to DC though, and found employment at the longstanding Tabard Inn in Dupont Circle. From there, he cooked at seafood joint DC Coast, as well as two establishments owned by Knightsbridge Restaurant Group: 701 and Ardeo+Bardeo. He also worked at Robert Wiedmaier's Belgian-French eatery Marcel's, and from 2006 to 2007, contemporary Latin American joint Ceiba. In 2008, he became CdC at Laurent Tourondel's BLT Steak, eventually rising to the post of Executive Chef (and cooking for the Obamas). Albisu left BLT in 2012 to start work on Del Campo, an upscale South American steakhouse in Penn Quarter that would open in April 2013. The restaurant was largely well received, and even landed a "Best New Restaurant" nod from Esquire. The Chef then debuted fast-casual taqueria Taco Bamba in June 2013, situated next to his mom's Plaza Latina Market in Falls Church.

At the start of 2015, Albisu competed on Beat Bobby Flay, where he bested Flay in a steak and eggs battle, and later that year, he was deemed "Chef of the Year" by the RAMW. In February 2016, he was selected as a semifinalist for Beard's "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" award, while that September saw the opening of Taco Bamba in Vienna. Del Campo was revamped in April 2017 (focusing on lower priced share plates), while Taco Bamba Springfield bowed that September. In November 2017, Taco Bamba popped up inside Del Campo during lunch, and the experiment provided extremely successful. As a result of that, the following March, Albisu announced that Del Campo would be closing, replaced by both another Taco Bamba and the upscale Poca Madre. The former dropped not long after in April, while the latter, inspired by the Chef's travels to Mexico, landed in June 2018 with CdC Faiz Ally at the helm. Finally, another Taco Bamba opened in Fairfax in December 2018.


Designed by local firm Swatchroom, the restaurant is rendered in earthy tones, offset by pops of green and bronze. The main dining room is split into two sections. I was seated in the lower Agave Bar area, while there's also the upper Mezzanine, with its suspended greenery; total capacity between these two spaces is 48. A private dining room seats an additional 20, while the patio holds another 50 when the weather's warm.


Poca Madre's menu is tight, focused, which I like, with dishes listed in order of increasing intensity/size. In addition, there's a 12-course "taco omakase" that I'm curious about, available Tuesdays and Wednesdays only (I may attempt it on a future visit). Drink-wise, you get interesting-sounding, (mostly) mezcal-based cocktails from Beverage Manager Amin Seddiq, along with a handful of beers and wines from around the globe. The restaurant also features one of the largest mezcal lists I've seen. Click for larger versions.


Our meal commenced with a complimentary shot of mezcal mixed with passion fruit and lime. The smokiness of the spirit was apparent on the nose, but taste-wise, I definitely got the passion fruit up front, while the mezcal just peeked through on the back end.


A spicy tomato salsa with chapulines and lime showed off a wonderful depth, while its finish really highlighted the sour-salty notes of the grasshoppers. Meanwhile, a sole, salty, super crunchy tortilla chip worked as a perfect accompaniment.


Desert Resurrection [$15.00] | Deuling Sotol's, Gracias a Dios Mezcal Gin, Ginger, Lime, Oaxacan Sea Salt, Epazote
The night's first cocktail really showed off the grassy, smoky, soil-like nuances of sotol (with perhaps some contribution from the epazote), evened out by citrus and a trace of lingering salt.


Snapper aguachile, yuzu, avocado, green tomato, grapefruit, basil [$12.00]
Cuts of snapper were super clean, and matched beautifully with the vaguely Asian-y herbaceousness present, all while the avocado served as a tempering force. The best part here, though, was the dish's multifaceted heat, which grew and stayed with me. The grapefruit, meanwhile, provided pops of acidity, and the spherifications a textural contrast. A strong start.


Hamachi ceviche, hibiscus salt, agua Jamaica, garlic, chile serrano, corn [$14.00]
At first blush, I got loads of fresh, fruity, floral flavors, along with a sort of drying tartness. However, this soon gave way to the brine and fat of the yellowtail, while the herbs imparted a brightness to it all. There were also some crispy bits here for texture.


Charlie & The Chapuline Factory [$15.00] | Mezcal, Oaxacan Chapulines, Pineapple, Lemongrass, Japanese Peanuts, Sambal, Farm Egg Shake
Time for more chapulines in our next cocktail. I found it super smooth, with its loads of soft, fruity pineapple notes commingling with the sour-savoriness of the grasshoppers. Crucial here was the sambal, which gave the drink and overarching and growing heat that worked as a great accent. I will say that I didn't really get much from the peanuts until I got to the dregs at the bottom of the glass.


"Everything" tostada, smoked whitefish, caviar, chilemole, trout roe [$14.00]
This Mexican-Jewish mash-up of sorts was surely the funnest dish of the night. I was a big fan of how the caviar augmented the smoked fish, contrasted by the "everything" spice and slight heat in the dish, all while the celery served to lighten the mood. Excellent crunch from the actual tostada, too.


Pulpo laminado, crispy octopus, mole blanco, ink pepper jam, sunchoke [$18.00]
Octo arrived with a superb char, along with flavors that simultaneously went in smoky, savory, sweet, and nutty directions. The white mole actually worked as a moderating element, while the sunchoke imparted crunch.


Fat Duck Old Fashioned [$16.00] | Mezcal, Ron Zacapa 23yr, Foie Gras Honey, Chocolate Mole Bitters, Black Truffle, Honey Comb
An Old Fashioned variation conveyed a nose brimming with honey and mole, while the palate was a marriage of chocolate and honey, along with a lingering funk courtesy of the foie-truffle combo. A pretty neat take on the most classic of cocktails.


Crispy soft shell crab, jicama, green papaya, brown butter, habanero [$22.00]
The crab, unfortunately, was the weakest course of the night. It was on point in terms of texture, coming out crispy, yet creamy on the inside. However, the brown butter was just far too overpowering, almost completely obliterating the sweet brine of the crab. The slaw, though, did help even things out, and had a nice heat to it as well.


Arroz cremoso, roasted maitakes, Castel Rosso cheese, truffles, huitlacoche [$22.00]
Our final savory displayed a proper cheesiness that you'd expect from a good risotto, not to mention a pleasantly al dente consistency. Maitakes added further interest to the dish, but the star of the show was the corn smut, which had a woody funk to it that worked in unison with the truffles.



Café Ahumado [$15.00] | Nuestra Soledad Mezcal, Housemade Café de Olla Amaro, Banana, Piloncillo, Canela & Star Anise Smoke
We concluded with the most challenging (and theatrical) cocktail of the bunch. Its nose with super smoky, with further notes of tea and anise. Taste-wise, I got characteristics of sweet tea and tea smoke, with wisps of cinnamon and a spice element that lingered, somewhat disconcertingly, on the back of the throat.


To close: a foursome of desserts, along with recommended cocktail pairings. Click for a larger version.


Campfire Panna Cotta [$9.00] | coconut, smoked crema ice cream, pepitas
This creative take on panna cotta was pretty great. It had a pervasive base of sweet coconut, joined by a delightful nuttiness from the pepitas, transitioning to a sweet smoke. I got a nice crunch from the seeds, too.


Last up was a passion fruit-mango pâte de fruit dusted with chile. Think pleasantly soft to the bite, with passion fruit and a penetrating heat leading to lingering mango.

With the lone exception of that crab, I enjoyed my time here at Poca Madre, and I'm glad the folks at Metier put the place on my radar. Albisu and company are doing a laudable job presenting a contemporary take on Mexican cuisine, but in a fashion that still incorporates traditional techniques and ingredients. It's a different type of Mexican dining for the District, closer to what's going on in the CDMX than probably anything else DC has seen before. The restaurant is still young though, so I do hope that the Chef can keep pushing, refining, and redefining.

Reverie (Washington, DC)

May 14, 2019, 8:05 pm

≫ Next: Bresca (Washington, DC)

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Reverie Restaurant
3201 Cherry Hill Ln, Washington, DC 20007
202.808.2952
www.reveriedc.com
Tue 05/14/2019, 08:05p-11:15p





The last time I caught up with Johnny Spero, he was still running the kitchen over at Drink Company's Columbia Room, which he'd joined in the latter part of 2016 after spending time staging at Mugaritz. With the backing of Drink Company, the Chef began conceptualizing Reverie at the end of that year, and soon enough, had begun securing investors and starting pre-construction. In April 2018, he started holding preview dinners at Columbia Room, while the long-awaited restaurant ended up opening on October 6th. Just days later, Spero's wife Alexis gave birth to their first child, Fiona, and in November, he appeared on Netflix's The Final Table, paired with Spanish chef Jessica Lorigio.


Reverie is located down a cobblestone walkway in Georgetown, and occupies a spot that was previous used as office space from what I understand. Designed by Edit Lab at Streetsense, the restaurant boasts an ostensibly Japanese-slash-Nordic aesthetic, with a touch of mid-century modern. A nine-seater bar is situated up front, while the kitchen and its 20 counter seats take center stage. There's even a covered patio with room for another 15 or so.


The menu is charmingly compact, and features Spero's Nordic-accented, contemporary Mid-Atlantic fare. Drink-wise, you get a tiny cocktail list from Drink Company's JP Fetherston, as well as an equally minute beer/cider selection, while there's a larger array of wines on offer. Corkage is $50 a pop. Click for larger versions.


Batting Average [$16.00] | Sherry/Pear/Citrus/Seltzer
We went all-cocktails for the night, and up first was this apéritif-ish number. It had a scrumptious bouquet of tangy, juicy pear with light sherry. The palate, on the other hand, really highlighted the fortified wine, giving up nutty, oxidative notes with a fruity undertone.


Mango [$17.00] | Espelette/Pistachio/Lime
The first plate to hit the table was probably the most intriguing mango dish I'd ever tasted. The slices of the fruit were sweet and supple, but hiding underneath was this preparation of pistachio that gave things a surprising depth and this delightful nutty, savory complexity. Meanwhile, the herbs imparted a zesty accent to the mix, and I didn't mind the heat provided by the dried peppers, either.


Scallop Crudo [$18.00] | Buttermilk/Dill/Dried Scallop
Clean cuts of scallop had their marine qualities taken up a notch by what I'm assuming must've been those crispy shards of dried scallop. The dill imparted a wonderful offsetting brightness, while at the same time buttermilk functioned as a mellowing element.


The Business [$16.00] | Gin/Honey/Citrus
The next cocktail had this unabashedly botanical nose, but with a telltale undercurrent of honey. Taste-wise, I got more gin botanicals up front, joined by lots of citrus and a super perfume-y floral quality.


Pickled Asparagus [$32.00] | Potato/Idiazabal and Truffle Cheese/Uni
I can say with pretty good certainly that I've never had asparagus prepared anywhere close to this before. At first, there were these intensely cheesy, funky flavors abound, but then came the actual asparagus, which offered up an offsetting bitterness and piquancy. Also key was the potato, which added a certain gravitas to the dish, and I appreciated the slight heat present, too. The sea urchin, finally, provided a sweetness and brine that was unexpected, but not unwelcomed, though quite frankly, it wasn't strictly necessary.


Kanpachi [$18.00] | Green Tomato/Habanero/Matcha
Amberjack arrived firm to the bite, with a pleasantly fishy quality that was well complemented by the in-your-face zippiness of green tomato. More interesting was the hint of bitterness from the green tea, and I really appreciated the spice imparted by the habanero; in fact, I would've liked even more of it.


Crystal Vision [$16.00] | Rum/Vermouth/Campari/Grapefruit Peel
This was the most potent cocktail I tried. It had aromas of dark fruit, but with a bittersweet edge, while the palate was herbal and medicinal, with layers of fruit and astringency.




Duck [$115.00] | Licorice/Fennel/Beet
A couple next to me (thanks Greg and Tracy!) was kind enough to offer a taste of their large-format duck dish, which Spero had apparently been working on for almost two years. The result of that R&D was pretty great, the bird coming out tender and juicy, with a properly crisp skin and harmonizing flavors of sweet licorice, all leading to a lingering, unmistakably "duck-y" finish. In addition, we were provided duck liver (fantastic with a dab of mustard) as well as an immensely gratifying, ultra savory duck confit.


Last Word [$17.00]
I asked our server for his favorite cocktail, and he came back with this Prohibition-era concoction featuring gin, green Chartreuse, lemon juice, and Luxardo maraschino liqueur. It smelled quite pungent, in a good way, with strong notes of citrus and licorice. In terms of taste, botanicals came through clearly, with supporting notes of tart citrus and anise, but what was amusing was that I detected an almost coconut-like sweetness.


Carolina Gold Rice [$26.00] | Duck Egg/Fines Herbes/Bay Leaf
The fabled Carolina Gold strain of rice was used as a base for this surprisingly light, bright course, one that showed off the delicacy of fines herbes, with perhaps a more robust component from the bay leaf. Concurrently, the duck egg supplied just a smidge of weightiness to the dish.


Lamb [$32.00] | Currants/Sorrel/Green Strawberry
The evening's final savory was a winner. The lamb itself was super tender, with a fantastic pepperiness to it that worked hand-in-hand with the tart, fruity flavors of currant. At the same time, the sorrel and strawberries added a crucial sharpness and acidity to the fray.


Ramos Gin Fizz [$17.00]
Last to imbibe was another classic cocktail, with Reverie's rendition featuring Neversink gin, which is actually made with an apple base spirit. The drink paired well with the dessert courses to follow, with its soft palate showcasing a blend of sour and creamy notes at first blush, all leading to a boozy, botanical finish laced with sweet, floral spice.


Birch Ice Cream [$12.00] | Spruce/Root Beer/Charcoal
By itself, the birch ice cream was fragrant and inviting, though further interest came in the form of a very palpable smokiness (from the charcoal I assume), while I also got a fascinating, almost marshmallow-like sweetness and a tinge of spice. Some interesting textures at play here as well.


Milk Chocolate [$12.00] | Smoked Olive Oil/Wildflower Vinegar/Sunchoke
Last up was the requisite chocolate dessert, which was more compelling than most. The crux here was the olive oil, which had a plethora of spicy, savory, utterly smoky flavors that matched up swimmingly with the subdued sweetness of milk chocolate. Also important was the popcorn, which imparted both salt and crunch.

Given Spero's background, I'd been waiting for Reverie to drop for a couple years now, and was pretty ecstatic when I heard that it finally opened. I was expecting some progressive food here, and that's what I got. I experienced some things that I'd never experienced before, and overall the cooking was contemplative and captivating, maybe unusual at times, yet somehow approachable. The kitchen is still young though, so I expect things to get even better with time.

Bresca (Washington, DC)

May 15, 2019, 8:10 pm

≫ Next: Majordomo (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Bresca Restaurant
1906 14th St NW, Washington, DC 20009
202.518.7926
www.brescadc.com
Wed 05/15/2019, 08:10p-11:10p





In addition to Poca Madre, another spot that the fine folks over at Metier recommended to me was U Street Corridor's Bresca. Named after the Spanish word for "honeycomb," the restaurant opened on September 22nd, 2017, and serves contemporary American fare inspired by the idea of bistronomy, a concept wherein gastronomic-type cuisine is presented in a bistro setting. The man behind Bresca is Chef/Owner Ryan Ratino, and the place was just deemed Michelin Star worthy last September, almost exactly a year after opening.

About the Chef: Born in 1990, Ratino hails from Medina, Ohio, and was raised in a working-class family where food wasn't a top priority. As a teenager, he was attracted to baseball and ping pong. However, he did get a restaurant job at the end of his sophomore year at Buckeye High School (c/o 2008), working at a nearby pub called Winking Lizard in Brunswick; he would stay there until July 2009. Following, he enrolled at the Le Cordon Bleu program at the Orlando Culinary Academy, where he attained his A.O.S. degree in 2010. While there, Ratino cooked at the Gaylord Palms Resort & Convention Center in nearby Kissimmee. At the start of 2011, he transitioned to Bull & Bear at the Waldorf Astoria in Orlando, and stayed there for six months. His next move was to the Walt Disney World Swan and Dolphin Resort, where he worked at Shula's Steak House and later at Todd English's BlueZoo, eventually becoming EC there.

In May 2014, Ratino became executive sous at Caviar Russe in New York, a gig that lasted about five months. During this period, he also underwent stages at Wylie Dufresne's wd~50, John Fraser's Dovetail, and Minibar by José Andrés. October 2014 saw him as Executive Chef at L'Auberge Provencale, a bed and breakfast in Boyce, Virginia, while a year later, he became CdC at Kaz Okochi and Richard Sandoval's Masa 14 in Washington, replacing Steve Hartzell. In October 2016, Ratino landed the Exec Chef position at Roger Marmet's wine bar Ripple, taking over from Marjorie Meek-Bradley. There, he was awarded the "Rising Culinary Star of the Year" title from the RAMW, but the Cleveland Park restaurant ended up closing in June 2017. After the shutter, the Chef went on a R&D food trip to Europe, and upon returning to the States, began working on Bresca, to be located in a Logan Circle space that previously served as the first floor of Policy Restaurant & Lounge (and McKey's Antiques before that).


Bresca has a tight, focused menu, which I appreciate. There's a five-course tasting available, but in order to try as much as I could, I requested an extended 10-course dégustation that ended up being priced at $145 a head. To pair with the meal, I opted for cocktails by Bar Manager Will Patton, though there are also a handful of beers and a compact wine list available. Click for larger versions.


We got the ball rolling with an apéritif of sorts: an orange shrub with fortified wine. It was a bracing start, one that definitely livened up the palate with its plethora of tart, funky, acidic flavors, all with a sugary backing.


1: Glacier Point | gin / cucumber / thai basil
Oysters were fresh and clean, and showed off bright, botanical flavors finished by a pronounced floral character. I would've preferred 'em a bit colder, though.



2: puffed beef tendon / asparagus
Next up were a couple amuse bouche-like bites. A puffed beef tendon with cheddar and jalapeño(?) powder was pretty great. I loved its crunch and unabashed savoriness, and how that married with the richness and almost "fluffy" texture of the cheese. The asparagus, meanwhile, was also a winner, its bitterness working superbly against contrasting sweet notes and the smokiness of that housemade pancetta.


Thrice Born [$16.00] | Singani / Grappa / Vermouth / Muscadelle / Elbling
Drink-wise, we began with this decidedly grape-y cocktail, which showed off a straightforwardly sweet, aromatic, wine-y nose. On the other hand, its taste was bittersweet at first, with lots of herbs, while ripe fruit appeared on the mid-palate, finished by more medicinal notes and a touch of alcoholic heat.


3: Scallop & Hokkaido Urchin | snap pea / buttermilk / white grape
Scallop arrived sweet and oceany, its potency augmented by the presence of sea urchin while the buttermilk imparted a creaminess to the mix. The grapes worked better than I thought they would, but for me the crux of the dish was the snap pea, with its zippy, verdant crunch that functioned as a great counterpoint to the seafood.



4: Foie Gras & Beignets | rhubarb / long pepper / elderflower / wild fennel
We had here a deft presentation of foie torchon, its refined liver-y notes a great match with the tartness of rhubarb pickles and fluid gels, all while the long pepper meringues and fennel offered up a zesty, spicy note. The star of the show, though, was actually the beignet. Think super soft and piping hot, with subtly sweet yet earthy, savory flavors, punctuated by pops of salt. These just might've been the best beignets I've ever had, and functioned swimmingly as a vessel with which to consume the liver.


Koi of Jerez [$14.00] | Vodka / Coconut / Cucumber / White Shoyu / Manzanilla / Lime / Ginger / Vanilla
This long cocktail was lighter, daintier than I expected. I got restrained coconut with a hint of oxidation and just the faintest smidge of shoyu, while the back end was noticeably dry and astringent.


5: Ricotta Gnudi | broccoli / black truffle / maitake / goat gouda
Gnudi were supple and pillowy, while crisp, bitter stalks of broccoli functioned as a foil. My favorite thing here, though, was the combo of truffle and mushroom, which had woodsy funk that pervaded the entire dish.


6: Oil Poached Halibut | courgettes / wild asparagus / vadouvan emulsion / black olive
There was a great cook on the halibut, and its delicate flavors were enhanced by the application of vadouvan spices. Zucchini, meanwhile, provided a lightness and crunch, and I was a big fan of that fritter on the side, too.


Buried Flavor [$13.00] | Gin / Americano / Vanilla / Apertif / White Asparagus
It's pretty uncommon to find asparagus used in a cocktail, but it worked here. The drink had a nose that meshed notes of the vegetable with an acrid element. Taste-wise, I found it bittersweet initially, but softened by fragrant vanilla, while the finish once again highlighted the asparagus. Very neat.


7: Veal Strip Loin | morel mushroom / rhubarb / ramp / peanut
I'm typically not a big fan of veal, as I often find it boring. This, however, may have been the most flavorful preparation of the protein I've had. I loved the sear and seasoning going on, as well as the potency of the ramps, while morels added even more oomph to the dish.


8: Japanese A5 Wagyu
Japanese beef came out super tender, with of course a healthy amount of well-integrated fat. It matched up beautifully with the bitterness of charred fava leaves and turnips, but I did find the dots of olive purée a bit distracting.


Bride's Mantel [$14.00] | Whiskey / Rhubarb / Floral / Amaro / Lemon / Whey
Our penultimate cocktail brought forth aromas of tart strawberry, apple, and lemon, with a bit of astringency. In terms of taste, I found soft, fruity, floral flavors for sure, joined by a smoothness from the whey, while a touch of herb from the amaro worked as an accent.


9: Black Forest | dark chocolate / cherry / hyssop / sherbet
Bresca's take on black forest cake brought together a rich, robust, yet also nutty chocolate cake and plenty of tart cherry, along with some crispy bits for texture. It was a delicious combination of flavors, though unfortunately I didn't get much from the advertised hyssop.


10: Tropical Ambrosia | tapioca / mango / meringue / passion fruit
A thoroughly reworked version of a classic American Thanksgiving dessert conveyed intense tropical fruit flavors, that ice cream in particular, while herbs and meringues provided a much needed contrast.


NE x NW [$15.00] | Bourbon / Earl Grey / Amaro / Sercial Madeira / Orange / Lemon
The night's final cocktail was the headiest of the five. Nose of super strong citrus, along with a slight acerbic quality and notes of caramel. Upon tasting, I got heat up front, joined by brown sugar, apple, and light citrus, along with fragrant Earl Grey on the close.



Foie Gras Cake Pop | hazelnut / chocolate / amaretto / gold
Bresca's well-known cake pops brought together familiar flavors of chocolate and hazelnut (think Ferrero Rocher), accented by a touch of earthiness from the liver.


Last up were chocolate(?) meringues, which I found nicely smoky.

This was my last meal in DC, and it was a good one. Bresca is a solid representation of its bistronomie inspirations, serving up ambitious, vibrant cuisine, but with an air of informality and lightheartedness. Given the success that the restaurant has enjoyed, it's not surprising to hear that Ratino's planning to expand. However, rather than shooting for something more mainstream, he's setting his sights even higher, and is planning on debuting Jônt, an 18-seat tasting menu-only joint, later this year. You can be sure that I'm going to try to snag a reservation next time I'm in town.

Majordomo (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

May 19, 2019, 11:40 am

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Majordomo Restaurant
1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA 90012
323.545.4880
www.majordomo.la
Sun 05/19/2019, 11:40a-03:00p



The LA Times Food Bowl festival wrapped up recently, and from what I've been hearing, one of the more popular happenings were Yu Bo's multi-course dinners at Tian Tian Qiu's new Mala Town on Sawtelle. Unfortunately I couldn't attend, but as a consolation, I did make it a point to visit Majordomo for a special lunch service featuring the Chengdu Chef.


The lunch menu is shown above, and disappointingly, Yu was only allowed to serve one dish. We were expecting several from the Chef, so we were definitely let down. Click for larger versions.


This lunch also functioned as a bit of a wine share, and we each ended up bringing at least one bottle (corkage was $30 for the first two bottles, and $50 for the next four). Up first was the 1995 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Blanc des Millénaires, a late-disgorged blanc de blancs. It smelled great, giving up an aroma that I'll describe as sugary fruit preserves spread on toast, with an earthiness underneath. The taste brought more brioche and sweet yellow fruit, with a hint of oxidation, some minerality, and even a touch of celery, which was surprising. This was drinking very well.


Lobster Salad [$32.00] | Sungold tomatoes, brown butter mayo, potato chips
The lobster was a delight texturally, and had a sweet brine that stood up to the tartness of those tomatoes, all while the mayonnaise help add a further layer of richness to the dish. A good start.


Bing Board [$32.00] | egg salad & smoked trout roe, Lady Edison ham, coffee butter & maple
Majordomo's signature bing was on point today, coming out soft and slightly sweet, with a yeasty edge. I enjoyed the smokiness and salinity imparted by the trout roe here, and how that worked against the herby flavors of egg salad. That slick, salty, sweet ham satisfied too, but my favorite item was actually the butter, which had a wonderful maple-fueled sugariness to it that just sang when taken with the flatbread.


Our second sparkler was the 1997 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut, which was disgorged back in January 2010. The nose on this one was super funky, with a vegetal, smoky character to boot. On the palate, I found the wine soft and subdued at first, while ripe fruit and citrus notes came in on the mid-palate, joined by light toastiness and a decent amount of oxidation.


Tomato Salad [$16.00] | cucumber, shiso, sesame vinaigrette
While the tomatoes were key in the lobster salad above, here they were the hero in the dish. Think juicy and bright and piquant, with the cucumber and shiso working as counterpoints while the sesame imparted a superb nuttiness to the mix.


We moved on into some Burgundy with the 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault 1er Cru Charmes. The wine conveyed a concentrated bouquet of green-yellow fruit, with a touch of acerbicness. In terms of taste, I found it soft and somewhat oaky, yet at the same time, spice-forward and quite vegetal, with flavors of stone fruit tying it all together.


Chilled Shrimp + add uni [$18.00 + $20.00] | crab, mussels, scallop, kimchi, avocado
Next up was what I'll describe as the most luxe seafood salad you'll ever have. Everything was fresh 'n clean, brought together by an overarching heat from the kimchi while the urchin imparted a healthy dose of sweet salinity. I was a fan of the crunch and lightness of the cucumber here as well, and didn't mind those slightly slutty saltines, either.


Smoked Lamb Ribs [$26.00] | cucumber, yogurt, sesame
Lamb conveyed a delectable balance of smoke, savoriness, and sweetness, and was duly lightened and brightened by all the greenery on top. This was a table favorite, and in fact, we ended up ordering a second round.


We then sampled the 2000 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons. The nose on this one was intensely briny, pure, and mineral-driven. As for the palate, I found it actually pretty restrained, with "green" fruit flavors and more of that salinity intermixing with a fairly pronounced spice character.


Jumeokbap [$12.00] | shrimp, spicy mayo, cucumber, sesame
The gim-heavy jumeok-bap was another winner. It did a good job showcasing the shrimp, and had this funkiness to it that I appreciated, all while the rice worked as a moderating element. Nice crispy bits mixed in here, too.


The 2002 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Spätlese was a lovely change of pace. It had a rich, refined nose filled with honey and stone fruit, with a trace of floral. Said honey and fruit continued on into the soft, silky palate, where they were joined by counterbalancing spice notes and just enough acidity.


Grilled Whole Striped Bass [$52.00] | Sichuan black bean, ginger scallion, ssäm
The bass was spot on, arriving perfectly seasoned, succulent, and tender, with a wonderfully salty, crispy skin to boot. It was delicious alone, but I also enjoyed the depth and heat from the included fermented black bean paste with Sichuan peppercorn, not to mention the zestiness of the ginger-scallion condiment. The herb salad up top (mint-cilantro-scallion) totally made sense as well. Note that we were accidentally given some zhug too (meant to go with the tteok-galbi).


Fried Cauliflower [$14.00] | fish sauce vinaigrette, red onion, cilantro
Cauliflower conveyed a great spice and depth from the fish sauce, while onion provided a perfect punch of acidity and astringency. However, I do wish that the florets were crisper.


The 1996 Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Furstentum from Alsace was a pleasant surprise. The wine had an intoxicating nose brimming with flowers and peach; it was almost Sauternes-like with how heavily sweet it was. The palate had loads of stone fruit, lychee, and honey, with layers of barnyard and spice and bitterness providing the right amount of balance.


Fried Magic Myrna Potatoes [$12.00] | shishitos, chili, garlic
Fingerlings were perfectly cooked, and almost creamy on the inside, while flavors were a deft blend of sourness and spice. Very good, and in fact, one of my dining companions even declared these the best potatoes he'd ever had.


We then traveled to Northern Rhône for the 2010 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée. The nose here was robust, showcasing butteriness alongside brioche, dried fruit, and a distinctly "meaty" element. The palate was similarly rich, and gave up a base of soft, ripe fruit and flowers, tinged by a touch of oak.


紅油鸡丝 [$32.00] | shredded chicken, chili oil sauce
We ended with Yu's excellent rendition of hong you ji si. What stood out to me was the initial sweetness of the chicken, and how that soon transitioned to a multifaceted heat and savor, one well complemented by the nuttiness of sesame and the zippy bite of scallion. Also of note here was the bird's texture, which was firm, maybe even a bit chewy, but yielding, and actually very gratifying.


The dish came with a small bowl of chicken broth, which helped temper some of the strong flavors at play.


We stayed in the Rhône for our final wine (and the lone red), the 2016 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot. Vibrant nose filled with massive amounts of strawberry, alongside musty notes, herb, and a bit of boozy heat. The palate veered tannic, with again more sweet fruit commixing with minty and herbaceous nuances, along with a smidge of savoriness.


Rounding things out was a complimentary dessert featuring Harry's Berries strawberries and cream. It was a pretty much perfect pairing, accented by what I believe was a sprinkling of matcha powder and sea salt.

Though we were disappointed that Chef Yu only had one dish on the menu, the dish that he did have delivered for sure, as did the rest of Majordomo's menu--a strong showing all around. I'm certainly looking forward to checking out his restaurant when it opens, but when we spoke to him, he stated that he didn't really have a timeline in place yet, so I think it'll be a while, sadly.

Firehouse Hotel (Los Angeles, CA)

May 20, 2019, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Fiona (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Majordomo (Los Angeles, CA) [2]

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Restaurant at Arts District Firehouse Hotel
710 S Santa Fe Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.947.3010
www.firehousela.com
Mon 05/20/2019, 08:00p-10:30p





Situated in a historic firehouse, the Arts District's latest boutique hotel comes to us courtesy of Dustin Lancaster, the driving force behind the likes of Bar Covell, L&E Oyster Bar, El Condor, Augustine Wine Bar, The Hermosillo/Highland Park Brewery, Crawford's, The Hit Hat, Hotel Covell, Oriel, and Crawford's Pass. His main partner here is local real estate guy Tyler Stonebreaker, while actors Chris Pine and Zachary Quinto are also investors, as are Hedley & Bennett's Ellen Bennett and CAA super-agent Jeremy Plager. Firehouse opened on April 15th, and really takes the "boutique" part to heart, featuring a mere nine rooms. The property's food component is handled by Executive Chef Ashley Abodeely, who serves up American fare emphasizing the restaurant's wood-fired grill.

About the Chef: Born in 1985, Abodeely hails from Nashua, New Hampshire, and grew up in a family that spent a good amount of time in the kitchen. She attended the Culinary Institute of America, and graduated in 2005. The following year, she secured a pastry position at Frank McClelland's iconic L'Espalier in Boston, and ended up working her way up to the position of sous over the course of four years. During this time, she also staged at Eleven Madison Park, and ended up getting a job there in 2010, cooking as a tournant for two years. From there, Abodeely became opening sous at The NoMad Hotel, another Daniel Humm and Will Guidara project. She eventually rose to the position of executive sous chef, and led the kitchen over at The NoMad Bar. In 2016, she moved to LA and headed up The NoMad Truck, which allowed her to familiarize herself with our City's dining scene. 2017 saw her land the Chef de Cuisine gig at The NoMad in Downtown, a position she held until December 2018, when she left to open Firehouse.


The Firehouse building was built in 1927, and was previously home to Engine Company No. 17 before closing in 1980. Design duties were handled by Sally Breer of ETC.etera (Hotel Covell, Oriel, Cafe Birdie, Bar Angeles). Pictured above is the gift shop-coffee bar area near the entrance.


Above we see the Firehouse bar, as well as the main dining room, which resides in a covered patio running most of the length of the building. There's also a private dining room in the back.



Abodeely's menu is pretty compact, which I appreciate, and features her take on contemporary American cuisine. Drink-wise, cocktails (by New York transplant Sarah Boisjoli) and beer are joined by a decently lengthy wine list. Click for larger versions.


Snow Crab Claws [$28.00] | Tomato, Garlic Butter, Fried Brioche, Parsley
We began with the crab claws, which I found well-textured, with a pronounced sweetness. Unfortunately, the dish was spoiled by off-putting rectangles of fried brioche on the bottom of the bowl, which were absolutely saturated with oil/butter.


Old Fashioned Zombie [$15.00] | Passion Fruit, Allspice, Bourbon, Jamaican Rum, Angostura
An unusual mash-up of two classic cocktails worked it out. On the nose, this one was all about sweet, tropical passion fruit notes all over the place. The palate, though, was more serious, giving up spicy, bitter, herbal notes in addition to the fruit, all layered over a rather boozy base.


Grilled Marinated Octopus [$16.00] | Cucumbers, Bitter Greens, Chili
Our next dish was a bit light on the actual octopus, but what we did get was on point: satisfying to the bite, well-spiced, and with a touch of char. The greens, meanwhile, offered up a sour, piquant contrast that was perhaps a bit too heavy-handed.


Beef Tartare [$16.00] | Sesame, Apple, Potato
I'm a sucker for tartar, and here I found the beef nicely textured, with a definite earthiness to it, but overall the dish ate surprisingly creamy. There was a horseradish-like zing that I appreciated, and I liked the crunch provided by the potato chips, though I didn't get much apple at all, and would've preferred more acidity. Curiously, reading the description of this course, I expected an almost yukhoe-style presentation of beef tartar, but the actual preparation was nothing like that.


Pineapple Express [$15.00] | Pineapple + Coriander Shrub, Suze, Vodka
This next cocktail was actually more interesting than expected, thanks to how it played the pineapple against an almost savory element, while the finish showed off a pleasing amount of spice.


Smoked Trout Rillettes [$17.00] | Radishes, Dill
The rillettes were a winner, displaying a deft mix of creaminess, brine, and smoke, all offset by the acidity and crunch of those pickles.


Cavatelli [$24.00] | Crispy Lamb, Morels, English Peas, Yogurt, Mint, Pine Nuts
The cavatelli was another standout. The lamb was indeed as crispy as advertised, and conveyed a welcomed depth of flavor that was augmented by the woodsiness of those morels, all while peas and mint imparted a necessary brightness and levity.


Larry Schneider's Dad [$15.00] | Amaro Angeleno, Mulholland Whiskey, Amontillado Sherry
Our next cocktail was named after Larry Schneider, who is apparently the longest-serving firefighter in US history and once worked at this very firehouse. In any case, the drink had a bittersweet, herbaceous nose, while taste-wise, I found it medicinal, spicy, boozy, almost biting in fact, with some sour plum notes to boot.



Branzino [$36.00] | Tahini, Cauliflower, Charred Scallion
For our final savory, we had a well-seared cut of branzino, one that was juicy, supple, and beautifully-seasoned. It was delish alone, but worked swimmingly with the zesty herbs up top and the acidic elements on the plate. The cauliflower, meanwhile, was unnecessary.


Floradora on Holiday [$15.00] | Hibiscus, Ginger, Lime, Vodka, Tiki Bitters
A variation on the classic Floradora cocktail was fun and spritzy, with plenty of floral flavors cut by just a smidge of bittersweetness and minerality.


Desserts are handled by Pastry Chef Rose Lawrence. The founder of organic bakery Red Bread, she's taught at The Gourmandise School in Santa Monica, as well as worked the pastry programs at Manuela and Rustic Canyon. Click for larger versions.


Hibiscus Granita [$11.00] | Rosewater, Labneh
We began with a fun dessert, one that played a tart, fruity granité against the lactic character of labneh. Taken all together, it was reminiscent of "fruit on the bottom" yogurt.


Celery Negroni [$15.00] | Celery, Cocchi Americano, Aveze, Gin
The evening's final cocktail was a hefty one. An intense nose filled with celery and botanicals led to a robust palate that blended gin with Cocchi sweetness and more celery, while the back end was decidedly bitter, grassy, and medicinal.


Ricotta Cheesecake [$13.00] | White Chocolate, Pistachio
The cheesecake made a good showing for itself, arriving light and fluffy in consistency, with a delightfully crumbly "crust" and the proper amount of savoriness. Nice nutty crunch from the pistachios, too.


Strawberry "Shortcake" [$13.00] | Charred Lemon, Berries
Our final dessert had some in-your-face strawberry flavors, flavors that veered almost candied or Jolly Rancher-esque. Counterbalancing that were airy, melt-in-your-mouth meringues and an earthy quality from the actual cake.


Finishing things off was an almond milk Matcha Latte [$4.50], one that really did show off the unmistakable bittersweet nature of the green tea.

Abodeely's cooking leans toward the straightforward, the easy-going, and that ethos came through in the dishes we sampled tonight. That being said, our dinner at Firehouse had both highs and lows, so there's still room for improvement. The kitchen is still young though, so I think that they'll continue to get better.

Fiona (Los Angeles, CA)

May 24, 2019, 8:05 pm

≫ Next: Kaori (Fullerton, CA)

≪ Previous: Firehouse Hotel (Los Angeles, CA)

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Fiona Bakery & Restaurant
339 N Fairfax Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.852.3210
www.fionabakeryla.com
Fri 05/24/2019, 08:05p-10:10p



Nicole Rucker is a name that I'd heard mentioned many a time over the past several years, but I'd never tasted any of her famed pies until just recently, thanks to a visit to Fiona. Named after a hippo at the Cincinnati Zoo (who shares a birthday with her husband Blaine), the Beverly Grove all-day bakery-cafe bowed on November 19th, and was created in concert with James Starr and Jason Bernstein, the guys behind The Golden State, Bludso's Bar & Que, Cofax Coffee, and Prime Pizza. Rucker obviously handles the sweet stuff, but curiously, she's brought on Shawn Pham (of Simbal fame) to take care of the savory side of things. The two apparently met through a mutual friend when he was opening his Little Tokyo restaurant.

About the Chef: Nicole Mournian was born in 1980 to a Native American-Mexican-Irish family, and was raised in the San Diego area. Her parents eventually divorced, and she ended up moving around a lot with her mom, who was a literature teacher. Her grandparents were good gardeners, and as a result, she always had a variety of fruit available to her, which is what initially drove her love of the stuff. While attending Poway High School, Rucker learned a bit about cooking by watching the likes of Jacques Pépin and company on TV, but after graduating in 1998, ended up attending the San Francisco Art Institute. Her major was photography, and during this period, she also sang in an Oakland-based band called Meeshee. However, she soon realized that she'd rather cook than photograph, and subsequently moved back down to San Diego. There, she faked a résumé and was able to land a pastry chef gig at Gina Bledsoe's Influx Cafe in 2003, where she stayed for three years. Rucker moved to LA in 2006 and began working at Fraiche in Culver City, under Pastry Chef Miho Travi. She left the restaurant in 2008 and became a barista at Caffe Luxxe in Santa Monica (she'd developed a taste for coffee at Influx), and then served a similar role at Intelligentsia in Venice.

It was here where she would meet Gjelina's Travis Lett. The two clicked, and Rucker was hired to open Gjelina Take Away as GM/baker, with the place debuting in June 2011. Later that year, Lett convinced her to compete in KCRW's Good Food Pie Contest, but she ended up losing. However, because of that loss, she refined her pie-making skills and completely redeemed herself in the 2012 contest, where she took home four blue ribbons. In 2013, she won first place for her apple pie at the National Pie Championships in Orlando (the experience was captured in the documentary Pie Fidelity). With those titles under her belt, Rucker and the Gjelina team opened Gjusta, an all-day bakery, in October 2014. However, she would leave Lett in March 2015 to join Jason Bernstein and James Starr as a partner in Cofax Coffee, where she became known for her doughnuts. Following a smattering of pop-ups and a stint at Smorgasburg, she and her partners planned to open a standalone bakery on La Brea (at the old Tinga spot) in 2017, but plans fell through. After the year or so delay, the team was able to launch Fiona last November, while dinner service started on December 3rd. And if that wasn't enough, Rucker just released her debut cookbook on July 2nd, entitled Dappled: Baking Recipes for Fruit Lovers.


Fiona takes over an address that was previously home to Bird N Hand, Deli Bar, and Moroccan joint Chameau. Anchored by the pastry case to one side, it's a bright, sunny space, one that features some of the Chef's personal art collection and was apparently designed to be like her perfect dream home. Do also note the table up front, which is covered in boutique-y knick-knacks, chocolate, tea, coffee, and the like.


Fiona's menu definitely has a Southeast Asian inclination, which isn't surprising given Pham's Vietnamese background. Beverage-wise, there's a small wine list and a handful of beers, while take-out and delivery are also options here. Click for larger versions.


Hamachi Crudo [$14.00] | pineapple, ginger, lime, chili
Our meal got off to a great start. Slices of yellowtail came out with a healthy dosing of fat and brine, and worked superbly with the tartness and funk of what I believe was fish sauce. The pineapple added a further burst of fruitiness and acidity that I appreciated, and I was a big fan of those savory fried bits of shallot on top, too.


A Sparkling Hibiscus & Ginger Yuzu-ade [$6] married the sweet, floral nature of hibiscus with the unmistakable zestiness of ginger.


Banh Mi Salad [$13.00] | Vietnamese sausages, pickled carrots and daikon, chicken liver mousse, baguette croutons
Here we had a deconstructed bánh mì of sorts, one that really did recall the ubiquitous "#1 Lee's Combination" with its liver-y funk and pickle-y acidity. I was especially enamored with the sausages.


Beef Tartare [$15.00] | hanger steak, larb seasoning, herbs
This very obviously Thai-inspired dish did a commendable job capturing the essence of Northern larb. I quite enjoyed the in-your-face dry spice character of the tartar, and how its savory, earthy flavors were lightened and brightened by the herbs mixed in. Nice texture contrast from those crackers, too.


Mr. Lee's Marinated Tofu [$11.00] | Korean chili flakes, roasted mushrooms, smoky eggplant
I don't know who Lee-ssi is, but his tofu came out on the firm side, with classic flavors. I enjoyed the mushrooms, and the eggplant imparted a novel smoky element to the dish, but I really wanted more heat from the advertised gochugaru. It was all a bit too tame.


We ended up having a bottle of the Eva Fricke, Rheingau Riesling, 2017 [$60] with the food. The wine was surprisingly restrained on the nose, and had notes of honey, pome fruit, minerals, and alcoholic heat, with a slight undertone of barnyard. On the palate, I found the Riesling on the more austere side, with its grassy, saline, and acidic flavors commingled with just a touch of sweetness.


Sprouting Cauliflower Gratin [$13.00] | caramelized onions, fish sauce, gruyere cheese
This was a bit of a miss for me, and I found it lacking the richness of a classic gratin, as well as the freshness and texture of normal cauliflower. Rather, the most prominent thing here was the sugariness from those caramelized onions, along with an undercurrent of piquancy from the fish sauce. The dish could've used more char, more browning too.


Sweet Potato Pancake [$13.00 + $2.00] | umeboshi creme fraiche, fresno chiles, bacon lardons, chives + add fried egg
This gamjajeon-like creation had a nice sear going on at the edges, but the middle of the pancake seemed a tad undercooked. It definitely showed off the sweet potato, but was lacking in salt, though the lardons did help in that regard. I wouldn't have minded more heat from the Fresnos, either.


Vietnamese Beef Stew [$15.00] | short ribs, star anise, cassia, carrots, mini baguette
A cozy, homey version of bò kho was a table favorite thanks to its invigorating depth of flavor, combined with wonderful nuances of sweetness, spice, and herb. It all came together beautifully. And the baguette? Soft, crisp, perfect.


Grilled Hanger Steak [$21.00] | crispy rice cakes, kecap mani (thick soy sauce), green papaya
Our final savory brought out a tart, funky presentation of hanger steak, one smartly evened out by a zippy, spicy, acidic, som tam-like presentation of papaya. I quite liked those well-charred, somewhat herbaceous rice cakes on the side, too.


With the wine all drunk up, we moved on to a threesome of beer (left to right):

• Anderson Valley, Framboise Rose Gose [$8] - Floral and salt-driven on the nose, this one showcased wheat-forward, tart, fruity flavors leading to a drying, astringent finish.
• Bruery Terreux, Fruit Punch, Sour [$7] - Extremely tart, almost acerbic aromas laced with berries and citrus. Taste-wise, I got the claimed fruit punch flavors, along with grain and lots of puckering lemony acidity.
• St. Bernardus, Witbier [$8] - This had sweet, almost candied bouquet with plenty of wheat. On the palate, I found the beer sweet and malty, with little of the anticipated coriander spice or citric tartness.

Given Rucker's reputation, naturally we had to save room for dessert. The Flourless Tangerine Cake [$7] was a strong effort to be sure, a great mélange of classic chocolate and citrus flavors in a moist, well-textured package.


Her Key Lime Pie [$7] was definitely one of the better ones I've tried. I loved the balance between the tartness of the lime and the sweetness of the whipped cream--masterful--while just as important was the crust, which was properly crumbly and incorporated the right amount of salt.


An Oatmeal Raisin Cookie [$3] definitely hit the spot.


My favorite of the desserts was the Honey Chess Pie [$7], which conveyed an unabashed sweetness from the honey at first, but one tempered by a very noticeable savoriness from what must've been the crust.

We enjoyed our meal at Fiona, though it wasn't without a couple criticisms. The desserts, though, were hard to fault, and Rucker's well-publicized facility for balancing sweet/savory/sour was clearly evident. I can see why there's all this hype behind her pies. The savory side of things wasn't quite as polished, but did show us a number of great dishes and the potential for more, and I do look forward to seeing how this collaboration between the two Chefs develops.

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Kaori (Fullerton, CA)

May 28, 2019, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Auburn (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Fiona (Los Angeles, CA)

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Kaori Japanese Restaurant
133 W Chapman Ave, Fullerton, CA 92832
714.871.9395
www.kaorisushioc.com
Tue 05/28/2019, 08:30p-10:35p





If you recall, earlier this year I reported on the new OmG Omakase by Gino in Santa Ana, run by Jinho Choi. Prior to OmG, Choi owned and operated Kaori, which he'd opened up back in 2007. I was a bit curious about Kaori, and thus decided to pay the place a visit. Its current Chef/Owner is Sang "Eric" Lee, who took over around September last year.

About the Chef: Lee Sang was born circa 1978 in Seoul. His father died when he was 12, and he was a self-professed problem child. He began working in restaurants at the age of 19 as a way to make some much-needed cash, and started out at both Chinese and (non-sushi) Japanese places. Members of his mother's family lived in the US, so Lee and his little brother eventually moved Stateside in 2001. He was 23 at the time, and soon began working for the Kabuki restaurant chain, then learned under a Masa-san (Masato Nakabayashi?), who was the sushi chef at Yamashiro.

Following, he decided to strike out on his own and purchased an existing business: Sushi Ko in Porter Ranch. He created a new menu there, and even employed his brother as a sushi chef, but wound up selling the place. Lee's next restaurant was the roll-focused Sushi and Wasabi in Agoura Hills, which I believe he still owns. He was then on the hunt for a third restaurant to buy, found Kaori, and was instantly attracted to its coziness. After negotiating for six months with Choi, he was able to complete the purchase at a reduced price, with the goal of serving omakase-style dinners that were never feasible at his other businesses.

Note that Chef Lee was assisted this evening by Jihan, or "Leah," who I believe was there prior to the change in ownership.


Inside, things haven't changed much from when Choi was around, but the new Chef has added his own touches here and there.


Kaori's menu is pretty typical, and features your usual sushi selections along with a number of composed dishes and seasonal specials. In addition to all this, there are two omakase levels at $70 and $100 a head, and we ended up going with the latter. Drink-wise, you get a handful of wines, the usual beers, and a small list of sakes. Corkage is $15 for wine, and $20 for sake. Click for larger versions.


1: Goma Dofu
We commenced with a mild, nutty block of sesame tofu, one perked up by salty pops of salmon roe and the tanginess of the included dressing. Hokkaido sea urchin, meanwhile, added just a bit of luxuriousness to the dish.


2: Kuromaguro Sashimi
Of sashimi course consisted of three cuts of Spanish bluefin:

• Akami - Super soft, and well matched by wasabi or a dollop of that salty Spanish caviar.
• Chutoro - The medium fatty tuna, somewhat surprisingly, wasn't a huge step up in terms of richness.
• Otoro - This, on the other hand, was super oily and utterly fatty, with a melt-in-your-mouth consistency. A bit sinewy though.

3: Hama Hama Kaki
With its clean, subtle brine, our lone Hama Hama oyster took well to the application of tart ponzu and fresh yuzu.


4: Gindara Kama Misoyaki
Here was black cod collar, grilled with miso. The fish had a soft, almost gelatinous consistency, but unfortunately, its flavors were just too sweet for my liking. The radish-ginger mix on top tried its best to counteract that sweetness, but it wasn't enough.


To drink, we started with a bottle of 2006 Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne Brut Cuvée Palmes d'Or. It had a fruit-forward nose that showcased notes of citrus, honey, and toast, with a slight blue cheese-like funk underneath. The wine had a soft, round, fruity palate, one layered with distinct nutty and tart lemon nuances, all backed by alcoholic heat and a bit of minerality.


5a: Amaebi
Sweet shrimp was super clean tasting, with a spot on crispness. Even better with a dash of yuzukosho-fueled heat.


5b: Amaebi no Atama
The fried head of the shrimp above was sweeter than usual (due to the batter used), and somewhat difficult to eat given that it was placed in a small cup filled with what I believe was a ponzu-based sauce.


6: Negitoro Gunkanmaki
Diced fatty tuna was augmented by the richness of shoyu while zesty scallion worked as a time-tested contrast. The truffle imparted an additional oomph initially that I appreciated, though the nori was a bit rough for my liking. Nevertheless, still a favorite bite of mine.


7: Misoshiru
Made with a large helping of akamiso, tonight's miso soup was much earthier than usual. The potency of the broth was boosted by the incorporation of oyster, while slices of mushroom imparted both umami and texture. Nice counterpoint from the scallions here as well.


8: Uni
Hokkaido uni came out very balanced, its sweetness evened out by its expected minerality. The caviar on top wasn't even necessary.


9: Madai
Red sea bream arrived torched, its clean, lean flavors meshing superbly with hints of salt, citrus, and smoke.


10: Maguro
Standard tuna was a bit bland unfortunately, and really drew attention to the coldness of the shari here. A miss for me.


11: Gindara
The black cod was a standout, as the searing really brought out the rich, oily, fatty nature of the fish. Excellent smoke character here as well.


12: Sake
Scottish salmon arrived accompanied by yuzu, lime, and olive oil. Sadly, the fish was weak-tasting, and really needed something more, since the sour notes here weren't doing it justice.


13: That Roll
I was surprised to see a bastardized roll like this during the course of our meal. It contained no rice, but instead was composed of a core of spicy tuna, rolled in yellowtail, with sweet pepper, parsley, ponzu, and sesame seeds. It definitely packed some heat, so the hamachi ended up serving as a moderating element. I didn't care much for the sweet pepper, though I did appreciate the nuttiness of goma. Again, this really didn't need to be part of our dinner.


We moved on to some beer, specifically the 2018 de Garde The Law of Motion, a blend of two year-old, oak-aged, spontaneously-inoculated wild ale with oak-aged apple cider and fresh apple juice, created in collaboration with Baird & Dewar cidery. Nose of lemon and pome fruit, with a definite funkiness mixed in there. Taste-wise, I got more tart citrus and an astringent, drying quality, along with barnyard and oak, while the apples came through more on the finish. Very enjoyable, though I actually wish that the apples were more prominent.


14: Kanpachi
Amberjack was superbly textured, and had its fresh 'n' clean flavors smartly paired with the zing of yuzukosho. Regrettably, the rice sort of got in the way here.


15: Toro
A slab of fatty tuna was just what you'd expect, and that's not a bad thing.


16: "Siso Pesto"
In this crudo-like course, suzuki (striped bass) was paired with a yuzu pesto that was just on the verge of being overpowering.


17: Watarigani Risotto
A blue crab risotto wasn't nearly as creamy as I'd prefer. That being said, it tasted pretty great, since the rice was imbued with the earthy brine of kanimiso, and had a nice smidge of heat on the back end from the spicy garlic on top.


18: Ikura Gunkanmaki
A prototypical presentation of salmon roe was amped up--perhaps unnecessarily--by the inclusion of toro and uzura (quail egg).


19: Madai no Atama
Sea bream head was supple, smoky, and pretty tasty, especially with a dash of the included yuzu ponzu.


20: "Maguro Cracker"
Shards of bigeye tuna were placed on a bed of "Asian mix" salad dressed with truffle ponzu, then topped with arare. The fish ate clean, and worked well enough with the savory-yet-piquant ponzu. My favorite part, though, just might've been those rice crackers.


21: Watarigani Temaki
Blue crab hand rolls definitely showcased the sweetness of the crustacean, while the inclusion of umeboshi provided a salty-sour blast that I didn't think needed to be there.


22: Milk Ice Cream
We ended on a high note thanks to this dessert, which had a wonderful touch of savoriness to go along with its sweetness. There was a bit of yuzu tartness here that made perfect sense as well.

In the end, Kaori was about what I had in mind. The food was pretty solid, though there were certainly some clunkers in there, and overall the meal was a bit lacking in polish. I'd rank it squarely below the top echelon of sushi spots in Orange County.

Auburn (Los Angeles, CA)

June 7, 2019, 9:35 pm

≫ Next: Ma'am Sir (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Kaori (Fullerton, CA)

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Auburn Restaurant
6703 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.486.6703
www.auburnla.com
Fri 06/07/2019, 09:35p-12:35a





I've been thinking about this for a bit, and I've come to the conclusion that Auburn has been my most anticipated LA restaurant debut of 2019 so far. The place opened on March 15th, and is yet another entrant from the prolific Sprout LA group. Heading up the kitchen here is Chef/Owner Eric Bost, a fine dining veteran who'd I'd first encountered at Guy Savoy a decade ago. I enjoyed an excellent meal with him there (still the best hot foie gras I've ever had), so my hopes were super high for Auburn.

About the Chef: Eric Franklin Bost was born in 1974, and grew in the Raleigh, North Carolina area, where he got his first taste of the kitchen while spending time at his grandparents' restaurants. After high school, he attended the University of North Carolina at Wilmington, and graduated with a bachelor's degree in business (focusing on hospitality management) in 1996. He then enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, and attained his associate degree in culinary arts in 1998. During this period, he also staged at Le Cirque 2000, which at the time was under the watch of Sottha Khunn. Following graduation, Bost moved to the US Virgin Islands to become a line cook at The Ritz-Carlton in St. Thomas, where he eventually rose to the position of sous chef before decamping in April 2000.

At this point he decided to go to Europe, where he met future wife Elodie Kerivel and ultimately settled in Paris. There, he cold called a number of the City's most famous restaurants, and in January 2001, landed a stagiaire position at Alain Ducasse's iconic eatery at the Hotel Plaza Athénée. After four months, he was able to become sous chef at Jean-Paul Arabian's Pierre au Palais Royal, where he stayed until January 2002. In April that year, Bost transitioned to a line cook position at Hôtel de Crillon's famed Les Ambassadeurs, a gig that lasted for about 10 months. The Chef then decided to move back to the United States, and wound up living in the San Diego area. Here, he worked as a line cook at The Lodge at Torrey Pines from July 2003 to December 2004, then switched over to The Inn at Rancho Santa Fe, where he was sous chef until May 2005.

In April 2006, Bost moved to Las Vegas to take on the opening sous role at Guy Savoy, under Damien Dulas. He was promoted to CdC in May 2007, and during this period, the restaurant received two Michelin stars. He received another promotion to Executive Chef in May 2008, and was able to retain the two stars. However, in March 2010, he moved to Singapore to open Guy Savoy at the Marina Bay Sands as Exec Chef, and was made EC/GM there in December the following year. In April 2012, Bost welcomed son Ethan Emmanuel, and after leaving his post at the Sands in February 2014, moved back Stateside. In October 2015, he became Executive Chef at LA mainstay Republique, cooking until the end of 2016, when he left to start work on Auburn.

Joining Bost in the kitchen are Executive Sous Chef Armen Ayvazyan (The Rose Venice, Quince, Bouchon Beverly Hills) and Sous Chefs Anthony Wang (ink.well, ink) and Francis Chua (Chi Spacca, Otium, CUT Singapore, Guy Savoy Singapore). On the sweeter side, we have Pastry Chef Dyan Ng (Wit & Wisdom in Baltimore, Bacchanal Buffet, Guy Savoy, Payard Pâtisserie & Bistro, Mix) and Baker Ashley Stogner (The Rose Venice, The Crema Cafe, Bakers & Baristas). Meanwhile, the front-of-the-house is run by GM Christina Oh (NoHo Hospitality Group, The Standard East Village, Jean-Georges) and Dining Room Manager Roderick Daniels (Gwen, Farmshop, Local Kitchen + Wine Bar).



Auburn occupies the old home of Hatfield's, which has been transformed into something unrecognizable as it former self. The revamp was led by Klein Agency, a local firm also responsible for the likes of Bon Temps and Highly Likely. The restaurant spots a simple, warm, natural feel, and is almost remarkable in its neutrality.


Bost's menu is informed by the Chef's time spent in French kitchens, but has a definite Californian sensibility to it. Diners compose their own four-, six-, or nine-course tasting menus, which allows for flexibility while still keeping things within the confines of Auburn's fine dining aesthetic. On the beverage side of things, you get a handful of beers, as well as a wine list by Sommelier Rick Arline (Hotel Bel-Air, Georgie, ink, The Capital Grille). I opted for cocktails this evening, which are the work of Matthew Belanger (Death & Co, Donna, Freemans) and Lauren Corriveau (Nitecap, Donna, Battery Harris). Click for larger versions.


Mango [$16.00] | rum, aquavit, mango, lime, dijon mustard
The kitchen was running very behind this particular evening, so we ended up spending significant time in Auburn's bar/lounge area, and enjoyed a couple complimentary cocktails in the process. Our first was super viscous, and conveyed flavors of sweet spice commingled with tropical fruit, but cut by a measure of citric tartness. The most interesting thing here was the mustard, which was restrained yet hard-to-miss, providing just an undercurrent of piquancy to the drink.


Kumquat [$14.00] | white wine, amaro angeleno, fennel, cacao, sparkling pear cider
Our second cocktail smelled great, displaying almost cherry-like aromas with plenty of ripe fruit character. Meanwhile, its palate was light, refreshing, and spritzy, and showed off surprisingly little fruit. Instead, I found it more spice-driven, with some savory, bitter qualities and even a touch of olive in there.


Upon being (finally) seated, we were quickly served these crispy pig's ears, dusted with salt and vinegar. They were fantastic, and utterly gratifying, giving up an in-your-face savoriness reminiscent of fried chicken skin or a chicharrón, but balanced by just the right amount of acid to keep things from becoming too intense. I'd never experienced oreille de porc this light and airy and delicate before--definitely some of the best I've had.


Next, we had an amuse bouche composed of a sweet buckwheat galette, with roasted onion and Lady Edison ham. Here, I enjoyed the sheer earthiness of the pork, and how that was contrasted by zesty onion, with the galette just moderating everything.


Our final canapé was this savory tart with torn herbs, which played sweet, caramelized onion flavors against the brightness of all that greenery.


Bread service was comprised of a housemade country loaf alongside an avocado butter with fines herbes (chervil, parsley, and tarragon tonight). The bread was superb, and had a delightfully crusty exterior along with soft, slightly sour insides. At the same time, the butter was a great companion due to its marriage of vegetal and semi-sweet nuances.


1a: Hiramasa Crudo | green strawberries, citrus fern, celery
Our meal proper commenced with certainly one of the more venturesome preparations of yellowtail amberjack I've seen. The fish had its fattiness and brine contrasted by the almost bracing nature of that celery, along with the acidity of those strawberries. There was a well-placed crunchy element too that I enjoyed (radish?), while bringing up the rear were these long-lasting "green" notes that reminded me of carrot tops (from the citrus fern oil I assume).


1b: Santa Barbara Box Crab | tomato seeds & gelee, nasturtium, seaweed-lemon granite
Box crab arrived particularly sweet, and said sweetness really meshed well with the tomato. That tomato also served as a link to the almost pesto-like richness and savoriness present, which managed to complement but not overwhelm the crustacean. What really surprised me here, though, was the jarring temperature contrast, courtesy of that granita.


2a: Halibut | ramps, sunflower, green blueberries, artichoke, pistachio
Ramp-wrapped steamed halibut was cooked flawlessly, its juicy, flavorful flesh working hand-in-hand with the char of those fantastic roasted artichokes, all while the sunflower crema added a lighter, vegetal note. The puddle of pistachio milk, meanwhile, helped integrate all the various components.


Watermelon [$15.00] | white + dark rum, velvet falernum, watermelon, allspice
Our next cocktail had loads of watermelon up front for sure, which then lead to the booziness of the rums, while the allspice came through on the back end. What was intriguing here was that I got some subtle, almost leather-like notes from the drink, both in terms of aroma and taste.


2b: White Asparagus | porcini mushrooms, trotter, spruce (add osetra caviar +$40)
White asparagus was cut into juliennes, which I don't recall ever seeing before. This ended up completely changing its texture and eating experience, making the vegetable much more finessed, and a bit of a showstopper. Even so, its bitter, tart flavors were still on display, and worked as a base for the earthy, savory flavors of porcini and braised trotters, while the caviar on top added pops of salt to the mix.


3a: Morel Mushrooms | kusshi oysters, new crop potatoes
Morels were super woodsy, and really harmonized well with the rich brown butter-like flavors in the dish. The potatoes, meanwhile, showed off a weightiness that counteracted the oysters, and the end result was the homiest, coziest course of the night.


3b: Cabbage | charred leeks, onion essence, alpine cheese
A combo of burnt cabbage and leeks had a healthy amount of bitterness and astringency, while the cheese worked to soften said flavors, aided by the baby kale leaf on top. My one concern here was that I wish the cabbage were crisper.


4a: A Bowl of Grilled Cherries | koji-aged liberty duck, mustard greens, black garlic
Sonoma duck arrived tender and moist, with flavors that veered in a somewhat Asian direction, perhaps due to the black garlic on the bottom of the bowl. The bird was flavorful and delicious alone, but even better with those bitter greens and mustard seeds, while the cherries imparted just a smidge of sweetness.


Ume [$16.00] | umeshu, apricot, citrus cordial, seltzer
This long cocktail drank soft and sweet, and had some super floral, perfume-y flavors to boot.


4b: 30 Day Dry-Aged Rib Eye [+$15.00] | smoked beets, vidalia onions, orach, oxtail broth
In our final savory course, rib eye definitely showed us that funk and depth that you get from dry-aging. It also had beautifully-integrated fat, as well as some well-placed pricks of salt. The oomph of the charred onion also worked for balance, though I wasn't as keen on the beets, though they did provide a nice smoke element. Also note the cup of oxtail broth on the side, which functioned as almost a palate cleanser here.


5a: Epoisse | sunchoke, seeds & flowers
Serving as a bridge to the desserts was what must be one of the best cheese courses I've ever had. The funk and pungency inherent to Époisses was on vibrant display, but the key here were the sunflower seeds, which had a nuttiness that really counterbalanced the fromage. Meanwhile, the sunchoke provided a great textural contrast and tempering element, and I really appreciated the bits of salt here as well. Do note that I was given an extra dollop of Époisses by my server, since I mentioned that it was my favorite cheese.


5b: Yogurt | mushroom caramel
A stout cylinder of yogurt ice cream was paired with a disk of frozen sablé, which had a graham cracker-esque quality that I adored. Even more fascinating, though, was the pool of mushroom caramel on the bottom, which had a sweet, woodsy taste that worked as a surprisingly effective foil to the ice cream. Great lingering salinity here, too.


6a: Strawberry & Milk | fermented plum
This minimalist-looking dessert was composed of strawberry with milk ice cream and fermented plum water. I tasted boatloads of the advertised berry right up front, and combined with the ice cream, I got a very familiar, very satisfying sort of flavor profile that left me wanting more.


6b: Rose | buckwheat honey
Last up was my favorite of the desserts, a rose parfait with fermented buckwheat honey, dotted with rose petal triangles. It was all based on a rose syrup, which was whipped, then frozen, then dehydrated, then frozen again. The end result was an impossibly dainty, ethereal custard that virtually dissolved the moment it hit my tongue, leaving a trail of floral flavors enriched by the potency of that honey. Super fun, super neat.


Green Banana [$19.00] | armagnac, mezcal, banana, eucalyptus amaro
We ended with a final cocktail to pair with the desserts. On the nose I got lots of booze and lots of citrus, but very little banana. Tasting it though, I detected boatloads of unmistakable banana sweetness up front, which then led to a good amount of alcoholic heat and bitterness, while bringing up the rear were some delectable dark fruit notes.


Mignardise duties were first handled by these batons of candied rhubarb, which resembled pâtes de fruits. Taste-wise, think sweet-tart, but earthy at the same time.


Following were herbs, coated in coconut then dehydrated. I tried the huacatay first, which had a minty sweetness commingled with a very vegetal note, while the coconut came through strongly on the finish. The red shiso, on the other hand, was much tarter, but also somehow very familiar at the same time (I couldn't put my finger on why).

Although there's plenty of 2019 left, I feel pretty confident saying that my meal at Auburn will remain one of my best of the year. There's just something with the cooking here that really jibes with me, almost at a fundamental level. I get a clarity, a purity in how Bost presents and layers his flavors, which are simultaneously vibrant, yet utterly finessed, contemplative and inventive, yet uncompromisingly delicious. This is a sentiment that extends wholeheartedly to Ng's desserts as well. There's a huge amount of potential with Auburn, and when (if?) Michelin returns next year, I predict stars. I look forward to returning, even if it's just to try the à la carte bar menu.

Ma'am Sir (Los Angeles, CA)

June 8, 2019, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Duello (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Auburn (Los Angeles, CA)

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Maam Sir Restaurant
4330 Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90029
323.741.8371
www.maamsirla.com
Sat 06/08/2019, 08:15p-10:15p



The last time I caught up with Charles Olalia, it was when I visited RiceBar back in July 2017. The tiny rice bowl spot was a pretty big hit for the Chef, and as a result, he was set on opening a second outpost of the concept. However, in early 2018, he was approached by Wade McElroy and Russell Malixi (Horse Thief BBQ, Cafe Birdie, Good Housekeeping) to partner on a modern Filipino eatery. Said eatery was to take over the duo's spot Bar Angeles in Silver Lake, which shuttered at the end of March that year (after just over a year of being open). Following a quick flip, Ma'am Sir debuted on June 13th, named after a popular greeting used in Philippine hospitality trade.

After a mere four months, the restaurant landed a four-star review from Time Out's Simon Majumdar, which was soon followed by another glowing review from the LA Times' Bill Addison, while GQ deemed the place one of its "Best New Restaurants in America" in April this year. Most recently, Olalia decided to shut down Rice Bar at the end of May after the place's lease expired. Interestingly, the location was quickly snatched up by AC Boral (known for his Rice & Shine pop-ups), who's already turned it into another Filipino rice bowl-ery called Baon.

On a related note, I found out that the Chef de Cuisine here is none other than Derrick de Jesus, whom we last saw cooking over at 71 Above back in September 2016. From there, he moved over to Tallula's as part of the opening team, then started doing a series of pop-up dinners under the Hubris banner (now named Mirasol it appears).



Situated next door to the recently-shuttered Malo, Ma'am Sir retains the same basic layout of its predecessor Bar Angeles. However, the room's been given a tropical makeover, and now sports rattan fixtures, hanging vines, and photos of Filipino celebs on the walls. Total area is around 1,800ft², and there's room for around 70 diners.


The menu lists Olalia's interpretations of shareable Filipino favorites and pulutan-type dishes. On the beverage side of things, you get cocktails from barman Rafa DaCosta (Aatxe, Hecho Cantina, Pisco Latin Lounge--all in San Francisco), along with some beer and a mini wine list. Click for larger versions.


Mango Bramble [$13.00] | Mezcal, Mango, Lemon, Fire Water Bitters
We went with cocktails this evening, and our first married the smokiness of mezcal with tropical notes of mango and a marked citrusy character. Refreshing, with a lingering heat thanks to those bitters.


Hangover Fried Rice [$14.00] | Lop Chong Sausage, Smoked Fish, Green Onion
Fried rice is almost always a good bet, and Olalia's riff on sinangág was no exception. I loved the depth imparted by the fish here, and you could really taste the essence of wok hei in the dish. The sweetness of the lap cheong worked swimmingly as a contrast, while zesty scallions lightened things up. A table favorite.


Sizzling Sisig [$14.00 + $3.00] | Grilled Pig's Head, Onions, Calamansi, Serrano Chili + Add Egg
Arriving on a sizzling platter was a mass of sundry pig parts, imbued with a pungent, porcine funk, moderated just the slightest by a punch of acidity from the calamansi. It was an intense eating experience, and not for everyone I imagine. I will say that I would've liked more textural contrast in the dish, like some fried pork bits or perhaps some chicharrones.


Ma'am Sir Lumpia [$14.00] | Shrimp Mousse, Lardo, Sea Urchin, Spicy Vinegar
Next came the restaurant's most well-known dish, the Chef's version of lumpiang Shanghai. I was a big fan of the mousse here, which was simultaneously refined, yet fully imbued with the sweet salinity of the shrimp. Things were on point texturally too, with the lumpia displaying a wonderfully delicate crunch (thanks to the use of what I believe was feuille de brick). The rolls were delish alone, but even better when taken with the paired vinegar sauce, which imparted an acidity that really lifted the dish. My only concern here was the uni, which I found distracting.


Under the Saya [$13.00] | Mezcal, Bittermelon, Green Chartreuse, Lime
I don't think I've ever had bitter melon in a cocktail. I'm actually not a fan of the fruit, but it worked here, its bitter, vegetal flavors pairing particularly well with the lime while the Chartreuse took more of a backseat.


Garlic Crab Spaghetti [$19.00] | English Peas, Calabrian Chile, Mint
The ispageti was another standout. I loved how clearly the sweetness and brine of the crab was presented, and how that matched up with the brightness of the peas, all while the chilies imparted just the right amount of heat. There was this overarching tartness in the noodles that worked for me as well.


Pork Sliders [$9.00] | Longganisa, Atchara, Hawaiian Roll
Next we enjoyed a complimentary serving of sliders. They really showed off the sweet-savory character of the longaniza sausage, and I really appreciated the contrasting acidity and crunch provided by those pickles. The Hawaiian bread here actually worked to smooth out the flavors at play. A favorite of ours.


Beef Kare Kare [$27.00] | Oxtail and Tripe Peanut Curry, Shrimp Paste
In Olalia's interpretation of kare-kare, oxtail and tripe were super tender, and paired with a surprisingly robust peanut curry. The incorporation of salty bagoóng alamáng amped up flavors even further, while the various veggies toned things down a tad.


Shiso Highball [$11.00] | Japanese Whisky, Lemon, Soda
The night's final cocktail was a pretty straightforward haiboru. Think tart, bitter, and herbaceous at first blush, with candied lemon and whisky coming in on the mid-palate.


Pancit Palabok
The kitchen then sent out a luxurious rendition of pancit palabok, one featuring New Caledonian blue prawns, sea urchin, and crab, in addition to the usual gravy and eggs. I loved how the heady, oceany flavors of the various items of seafood were so forcefully conveyed here, tempered by the egg and those slick, soft, slippery noodles. The star of the show, though, was the shrimp, which were beautifully charred and positively loaded with brine. However, once again, the uni wasn't really needed.


Passionfruit & Coconut Verrine [$8.00] | Jackfruit, Ube Cream, Lychee Granita
Time for dessert. Our first showcased a fantastic array of textures, along with boatloads of creamy, tropical fruit flavors. Yum.


Banana Bibingka [$8.00] | Pandan Cream
Last up was the bibingka, a dense, chewy, yet supple cake that was really satisfying in terms of texture. The actual banana here was pretty subtle, and instead the unmistakable fragrance of pandan stole the show.

Despite a seeming overreliance on sea urchin, Olalia's doing some pretty neat things here at Ma'am Sir. The heart of the cooking is Filipino to be sure, but it's definitely informed by the Chef's time spent in LA. This isn't food you'd find back in the Motherland, but instead a new wave, personalized take on the cuisine that'll help keep Philippine cookery in the spotlight.

Duello (Los Angeles, CA)

June 12, 2019, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Inn Ann (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Ma'am Sir (Los Angeles, CA)

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Duello Restaurant
449 S Hewitt St, Los Angeles, CA 90013
424.433.3000
www.duellodtla.com
Wed 06/12/2019, 08:00p-10:10p



[Note: Duello looks to have closed up for good as of late July, so I suppose this post will just be for historical curiosity.]



One of the more shocking shutters of recent times has got to be that of Simone. Helmed by Jessica Largey (of Manresa fame), the Arts District spot opened on September 20th last year, but never seemed to hit its stride. After apparent mismanagement on the part of leadership, Largey left the restaurant in March, and Simone closed up shop at the start of April. However, all was not lost, and the place re-opened as the more casual Duello (which was previously the name of the bar in front) on May 18th. Running the kitchen now is former Chef de Cuisine Jason Beberman. As I stated in my Simone post, he's "a New Yorker who was last serving as Director of Culinary Operations for Alex Stupak's Empellon. Before that, he cooked at numerous NYC spots including Miller's Tavern, Dressler, Diner, Gramercy Tavern, Marlow & Sons, Veritas, and Geoffrey Zakarian's Town."


Not too much has changed in the bar area, but the back dining room was still in the process of being remodeled this evening. There's also a new patio right in front.


Menu-wise, Duello sports more approachable fare compared to its predecessor, which probably makes sense, at least for now. On the beverage side of things, cocktails by barman Iain McPherson are still in place (thankfully), and of course you also get some beers and a decent wine list. Click for larger versions.


Crispy Rice [$16.00] | green chorizo, snap peas, epazote
The meal got off to a promising start with my favorite dish of the evening. The rice was indeed as crunchy as advertised, and worked great as a foil to the steady, unobtrusive heat from the chorizo. Peas imparted a welcomed sweetness to the dish, while the epazote showed off some delightfully minty notes.


Fuzz Lord [$15.00] | jamaican rum, cachaca, kiwi, whites, matcha
Our first cocktail was a definite winner. I found it eggy and citrus-forward at first, but it also had a palpably astringent quality layered over a base of fruit, all while the back end gave up an almost briny sensation. Really interesting.


Grilled Cabbage [$14.00] | macadamia salsa macha, buttermilk, pickled apple
I'm a fan of cabbage, though here I found its bitterness and char a bit too strong. The salsa macha imparted a pervasive, creeping heat to the dish, though it veered overly nutty for my liking. At the same time, the pickles offered up a contrasting element, but I think even more acidity was called for.


Astro Zombie [$15.00] | mexican rum, overproof rum, arrack, guava, passionfruit, almond, lime, absinthe
Next to imbibe was a commendable take on the classic Zombie cocktail. I got boatloads of tropical fruit up front, which then led to sweet, nutty notes, while the back end really showed off the anise-y nature of absinthe.


Octopus [$22.00] | fava beans, toasted garlic, red chili jam
Octo was super supple, with a good amount of sear and smoke to it as well. I was a fan of the chili jam too, which had a pretty intriguing combination of bitter, spicy, and savory flavors that really showcased a good amount of depth. The favas, meanwhile, worked hard to lighten up the dish.


Grilled Short Rib [$29.00] | charred spring onion, romesco
Short rib ate tender, and had this super beefy, almost funky quality to it. I really appreciated the counterpoint provided by the charred veggies, but the romesco went in an overly nutty direction, and didn't really mesh all that well with the meat; in fact, the combination was slightly disconcerting.


Juno [$15.00] | mezcal, yuzu liqueur, creme de peche, whites, lemon, absinthe sherbet
Here was yet another worthwhile cocktail. This one had lots of stone fruit at the start, which then led to contrasting nutty, anise-y notes, with layers of astringency and sourness on top. Nice!


Pork Belly [$22.00] | braised with crispy skin, salsa verde, agretti
In our final savory, pork belly had this intense, almost earthy character to it, and really needed the salsa and super zesty agretti for balance. The skin here was indeed crispy, though the meat itself could've certainly stood to be juicier, more tender. In the end, the dish just didn't come together as well as I'd hoped it would.


Golden Age [$14.00] | japanese whiskey, lemongrass, saffron liqueur, curacao, yuzu ginger
The evening's last cocktail displayed lots of ginger up front, leading to sour, acerbic notes from the lemongrass-saffron combo, while there was almost this fruity backing to the drink that I quite appreciated.


Sorbet Sundae [$10.00] | peach buttermilk sherbet, apricot and kiwi sorbet, grilled fruit, meringue
Dessert duties were handled by a trio of sorbets. The sherbet was delish, blending tasty peach flavors with the lactic nature of buttermilk. And speaking of stone fruit, the apricot sorbet was also on point, giving up tons of true-to-life flavors. My favorite was the kiwi, which I found super intense and really quite unique. The meringues, meanwhile, moderated the strong flavors present and provided some textural contrast. There was also what I believe was this coconut-y, yogurt-y cream present at the bottom of the bowl, which I didn't mind.

I was sort of bummed that Simone closed so suddenly (I didn't even get to try the chef's counter), but I'm glad that they were able to bounce back relatively quickly. The cocktails we had were pretty great, and Duello is actually worth visiting just for the drinks. The cooking, though, was a bit uneven, but there is some promise here, and I do hope that the team has a chance to improve.

Inn Ann (Los Angeles, CA)

June 13, 2019, 8:30 pm

≫ Next: Scala Stonegrill (Alhambra, CA)

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Inn Ann at Japan House
6801 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90028
323.677.5557
www.japanhouse.jp/losangeles/restaurant/
Thu 06/13/2019, 08:30p-12:15a



For nearly two decades, Mori Sushi has stood as a standard-bearer in the LA sushi scene. Morihiro "Mori" Onodera opened the spot on May 8, 2000 in the former home of longstanding Thai eatery Siam Hut, and soon cemented the place as one of our City's top sushi-ya. However, in March 2011, at the age of 46, the Chef announced that he was selling the restaurant, and the buyer was none other than Masanori "Maru" Nagano--who'd been at the restaurant since day one--and his wife Miyuki Hayashi. The transaction closed that May, and the stated reason for the sale was that Mori-san wanted to take some time off to pursue other ventures (though he did remain as an itamae at his namesake restaurant for some time after).

Onodera began focusing on his pottery (working out of Pasadena's Xiem Clay Center), and would go on to create pieces for local restaurants such as Barbershop, Capo, Il Grano, La Botte, Marino, Melisse, Orsa & Winston, Providence, and Wally's, not to mention celebrated places like Manresa and Meadowood up in NorCal. In addition, he started growing and importing koshihikari rice from Uruguay (under the Satsuki brand), a project he started with Ichiro Tamaki, the farmer that grew Mori Sushi's California Delta rice from back in the day.

These ventures continued on for a few years, but in November 2017, it was revealed that the Chef had returned to cooking, as was now slinging sushi at Shiki in Beverly Hills, coaxed out of retirement by longtime friend and fellow chef Nao Sugiyama (who had recently relocated from New York). I never made it out to Shiki in time to experience Mori-san there, so I was elated to hear that he'd be taking over the kitchen at Japan House's Inn Ann, situated on the fifth floor of the Hollywood & Highland Center.

Opened on November 27th, Japan House is the work of the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and is meant to increase awareness of Japanese culture around the globe. Inn Ann ("hidden retreat") is the facility's in-house restaurant, and was originally designed as a place for Japanese chefs to hold multi-month residencies in the kitchen. First to take the helm was Taro Araki, Executive Chef for the Consulate-General of Japan, but once his short stint was over, Onodera was tapped to become a permanent fixture, with the transition happening right at the start of this year. His work at Inn Ann has been well-received, securing four stars from Time Out's Simon Majumdar and a glowing review from Bill Addison of the LA Times.


Inn Ann sports a soft, subdued, calming aesthetic. As you can see above, there are some pretty nice views of Hollywood, but I'd recommend that you sit at the bar and focus your attention squarely on the food. Total capacity is around 35.


This is a tasting menu-focused restaurant, and you get your choice of five omakase options. We opted for the flagship Biwa (Japanese for "loquat"), which ended up being $270 a head, though pricing can vary depending on the ingredients used on a particular night. To drink, you'll find an array of sake and shochu, along with a small amount of whisky, beer, and wine. Corkage was $30 a bottle. Click for larger versions.


1: Sudachi Shochu
Our meal commenced with a welcome drink of sorts, one comprising shochu, sudachi juice, and lotus root brine. It was pretty delicious, and an effective apéritif, its refreshing, vibrant citrus flavors giving way to a light, lingering salinity.


2: Jikasei Tofu
Here we had the Chef's homemade tofu, which I found mildly nutty. The dollop of wasabi on top provided a contrasting zing to the dish, but even more crucial was the smokiness from the shoyu dashi.


3: Zensai Moriawase
Next came a septet of small bites. Clockwise from bottom, we had:

• Mozuku - Long, thin strands of Japanese seaweed were paired with tart, vinegar-y flavors and zesty bits of ginger.
• Yamaimo - I'd never had Japanese mountain yam quite like this before. It came fried and then boiled in broth, which resulted in increased depth and a much more gratifying, non-slimy consistency. My favorite item here.
• Oshinko - Tart pickled radish and crisp lotus root.
• Kinkan - A poached baby kumquat was sugary, almost candied in its presentation.
• Yamamomo - Baby mountain peach suspended in jelly. Think fresh, fruity and utterly delightful.
• Atsu-Age - A crispy, fried block of tofu had considerable depth to it, as well as a contrast in textures.
• Kinpira Gobo - Thin, nutty strands of burdock root.

In terms of libations, we began with a sparkler, the 2004 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. It had a heady, robust nose filled with brown butter, oxidative, and caramel aromas, along with a trace of berry fruit. The palate was similarly full-flavored, delivering both orchard fruit and brioche notes, along with a persistent acidity and a backbone of minerals. As it warmed, the wine became noticeably toastier, with one of my dining companions deeming it Krug-like. Overall I found this assertive yet youthful, with plenty of life left in it still.


Mori-san hard at work on our next course...


4: Akagai Sunomono
...And what a course! A favorite of mine, it was a red clam sunomono, with tosazu, kinome miso, and pickled myoga. The clam ate super clean, its delicate taste meshing gorgeously with that wonderfully gusty, vibrant sansho leaf-infused miso. I didn't mind the tart crunch of the included pickles, either. Note also the unique plate utilized here, one of many tonight handmade by the Chef himself.


5: Botan Ebi Sashimi
Fresh, snappy Santa Barbara sweet shrimp was sliced two ways--thick and thin--so we could enjoy both textures. Taste-wise, it really opened up with a dab of the freshly-grated Japanese wasabi and a dip of Ibaraki-sourced soy. Also great was the grilled, smoky, super oceany head of the shrimp.


6: Kinmedai Tataki
Seared golden eye snapper from Japan was great when taken with more of that fresh wasabi, and I loved the crispy, flavorful skin of the fish and how that contrasted its dense, meaty flesh. There was also quite a temperature contrast here that I wasn't quite expecting.


7: Hamo Owan
Dagger-tooth pike conger arrived in soup form, its soft, mild meat punctuated as always by tiny bits of bone. The traditional pairing of ume imparted a tartness that moderated the somewhat smoky flavors present. Meanwhile, we also had the junsai, which imparted a slippery textural variation to the dish.


8: Meso Anago Tempura
Our tempura course featured young eel from Hokkaido as well as shishito peppers, paired with a classic tentsuyu-plus-daikon, as well as matcha salt and fresh lemon. I was smitten with the tempura, which was pretty flawless, and didn't even need any of the condiments. However, I did prefer the combo of salt and lemon, though that smoky, piquant tentsuyu certainly wasn't bad, either.


9: Tarabagani
King crab was sweet and unabashedly saline, its potency tempered by a dip into the included tosazu. I also got a lovely char character here as well.


Our second wine was the 2010 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots, which I'd actually had nearly six years ago at Opus Sushi in Arcadia. The nose on this one went in a vegetal, seaweed-y, marine direction, with a tinge of citrus. On the palate, I found this round and rich, its initial grassy, mineral-driven notes leading to lingering fruit on the back end. Definitely better than I remember from Opus.


10: Kagoshima Wagyu
A5 wagyu from Kagoshima displayed all the char, fat, and flavor you'd expect and want, and was served two ways: wrapped around Santa Barbara sea urchin then topped with wasabi, and yaki-shabu style. In the former preparation, the uni actually worked to soften the potency of the beef, while in the latter, I really appreciated the levity imparted by the combination of turnip, zucchini, shiitake, and watercress. If that wasn't enough, the one year-aged housemade yuzukosho on the side was excellent, too.


Time for sushi, which was served on the largest plate I'd ever seen used for this purpose (made by Mori-san, natch). As for the ginger, we were served two varieties. In the rear was your standard gari, while the pieces in the front were marinated whole in salt and vinegar, boiled, then marinated in vinegar again.


11: Ishidai
We began our nigiri portion of the meal with an uncommon selection: Japanese knifejaw (a.k.a. striped beakfish), which I think I'd only encountered once before at I-Naba, and even then, it wasn't in sushi form. In any case, it was a delicately flavored neta, but one with an uncommonly dense, meaty consistency that I found very satisfying. Interestingly, the fish had a very subtle nuttiness at first, which quickly transitioned to a back-and-forth between brine and wasabi. As for the shari, the Chef told us that it came from Ibaraki Prefecture, and is thus not the California or Uruguayan rice that he's known for, which wasn't a problem at all.


12: Shima Aji
Wild striped jack was beautifully balanced, showing off a particularly harmonious interaction between rice and fish, finished by the unmistakable heat of wasabi. Just about perfect.


13: Mebachi
Next up was the harashi (short for harashida, or "under the belly") cut of New Zealand bigeye tuna. I don't think I'd ever had this before, which is a shame, because it was pretty special. I found the fish super soft, almost pillow-y in fact, with no sinew whatsoever. Really neat.


14: Kohada
Following was a trio of hikarimono. Gizzard shad had a firm bite as always, its considerable salinity and touch of sweetness deftly counteracted by the combo of rice and 'sabi.


15: Aji
Spanish mackerel was delightfully textured, and had a refined oceanic taste to it that grew and lingered. Curiously, when this course was served, we asked Mori-san about the distinction between aji and sawara, and he fell squarely into the aji=Spanish mackerel camp, and stated that sawara=king mackerel. Now, this goes against what some other chefs would say. I recently asked I-Naba's Yasu-san the same question, and he was adamant that sawara=Spanish mackerel and aji=horse mackerel. I've been eating sushi for a pretty long time, and I still can't get a final answer on this.


Our next beverage was the 2018 Daishichi Horeki Junmai Daiginjo Kimoto, a "free run"shizuku-zake produced by Daishichi Shuzo out of Fukushima. It had an amazingly sweet, rich aroma, one brimming with both banana and bubblegum. The palate was similarly saccharine, almost creamy in fact, with loads of fruity melon finished by a bit of heat on the back end.


16: Iwashi
Last of the silver-skinned fishes was sardine. I found this especially meaty, while flavors were aggressive, with tartness and brine all over the place, moderated just enough by the presence of rice.


17: Akagai
Ark shell (a.k.a. blood clam) was a treat, coming out supple and springy, with a polished brine that was well matched to a bit of wasabi.


18: Ikura
Globules of salmon roe tasted of the sea, just as expected, and worked hand-in-hand with their seaweed wrapper, also just as expected.


19: Santa Barbara Uni
Sea urchin from Santa Barbara ate super juicy this evening, and seemed especially sweet. As always, I really appreciated the contrast provided by the nori.


20: Misoshiru
The miso soup displayed plenty of the classic umami flavors I was expecting, offset just a smidge by the zestiness of those scallions.


21: Hokkaido Uni
To compare and contrast with the urchin above, we also had some sourced from Hokkaido. Unsurprisingly, this was a more contemplative presentation, with less sweetness and a more pronounced minerality. And once again, the seaweed was key.


22: Anago
Soft cuts of salt water eel arrived in a cozy sort of preparation, replete with a sweet-ish sauce and long-lasting salinity.


Next to drink was a beer from Iwate Prefecture, the Ginga Kogen Plateau of the Galaxy [$13]. This one had a fruity nose, with hints of funk, grassy spice, and grain. Taste-wise, I found it soft, sweet, and easy-drinking, its fruit-forward nature evened out by nuances of citrus, spice, and more grain.


23: Tamago
Tamagoyaki was one of the better versions I've sampled in recent times. I found it dense and substantial, yet never heavy, while taste-wise, it conveyed a great balance between sweet and savory.


24: Mirugai
We specifically requested this snappy cut geoduck, I'm glad we did. What struck me was the nori, which was actually placed underneath the neta, a presentation that I'd never seen before. Location aside, the seaweed worked superbly in concert with the rice and clam, effectively evening out all the flavors at play.


25: Akagai Himo-Kyuri Hosomaki
Here we had a cut roll featuring the himoki, or crunchy mantle/muscle/fringe of akagai. It was great to see another side of the clam here, and I especially enjoyed the interaction between it and the light, bright nature of the cucumber.


26: Yamamomo Granita
Closing out the meal was a sole dessert of mountain peach granité, paired with local Gaviota strawberries and shiso. I found the sorbet super fruity, especially when taken with the berries, so the shiso actually worked as a great accent piece here. Fun, refreshing, and a good palate cleanser.

When I first heard of Inn Ann, I have to say that I was a tad skeptical, but with Mori-san installed in the kitchen, this is definitely the real deal. The Chef seems particularly comfortable behind the bar. He has a certain ease to him, perhaps because of all the time off he's had, or perhaps it's just a confidence that comes with age. In any case, the end result was a pretty much flawless meal that managed to both surprise and delight. If you're an old fan of Mori or a fan of sushi in general, you should be visiting this place. This has definitely been one of my top meals of the year so far.