Sambar (Culver City, CA)

September 17, 2015, 8:00 pm

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Sambar Restaurant
9531 Culver Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232
310.558.8800
www.sambarcc.com
Fri 08/07/2015, 08:00p-10:30p





It's been a while since I've reported on an Indian eatery, but bucking that trend is Culver City's new Sambar. Named after a southern Indian staple of lentil stew, the restaurant is the work of Chef/Owner Akasha Richmond, who'd been kicking around the idea for the place for years. Sambar debuted at the end of May, and aims to present a multiregional take on Indian fare, infused with a Californian sensibility.

About the Chef: A child of the free-wheeling 1960s, Richmond grew up in Miami and Hollywood, Florida amongst an American-Russian family that loved to cook. She moved to Los Angeles in the late 70's to study yoga, and in 1979, started cooking at Golden Temple, a vegetarian eatery opened in 1974 by her yogi (at the site of the current Mercado, across from the Original Farmers Market). During her time there, she befriended none other than Michael Jackson, a regular customer who was recording Thriller at the time. In 1984, she and friend Mani Niall became private chefs for Jackson, and Richmond even accompanied him across the globe during his Bad and History tours.

After 14 years with MJ, she continued on in her private cheffing career with Barbara Streisand and Billy Bob Thornton, catered and consulted via her firm Akasha's Visionary Cuisine (which she started in 1985), and co-founded natural food company Eaturna in 2004. This was followed up by the publishing of a cookbook, Hollywood Dish, in 2006. With all that under her belt, Richmond started working on her first restaurant, and she and husband Alan Schulman would open Akasha in Culver City's Hull Building in February 2008 (a process documented on TLC show Flip That Restaurant). The menu at Akasha is centered around Californian fare with international influences, a theme that's explored to a much greater degree at Sambar.

Here, Richmond's second-in-command is OC-native and Chef de Cuisine Kirk Plummer. Plummer, for his part, started out in the FOH, but eventually enrolled at the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena in 2009. He worked at Akasha during his tenure at the CSCA, and upon graduating, became a sous chef there in September 2010. In January 2012, he moved to Ford's Filling Station a couple doors down, and after two years there, became Executive Chef at Madera Kitchen in Hollywood. After getting married, Plummer rejoined Richmond in August 2014, becoming CdC at Akasha before moving on to Sambar (replaced by former FFS CdC Gavin Lansdale, fittingly).

Sous chef duties at Sambar, meanwhile, are being handled by Adam Midkiff. An Art Institute of California grad, he started out in 2010 as an event chef for W Hotels, but later moved on to Son of a Gun in 2011, where he began as a line cook and later became sous. After two years at SoaG, he moved on to Jordan Kahn's avant garde Red Medicine as a chef de partie. Following, Midkiff worked as Chef de Cuisine at The Corner Door before joining the Sambar team in March.


Designed with help from chef/consultant Ragavhan Iyer, Sambar's menu is a fairly lengthy affair, with a diverse selection of Indian-ish dishes, spanning your typical Northern fare as well as more uncommon selections (including an entire "New Wave Masala" section). Drink-wise, you get beers and wines joined by theme-appropriate cocktails from Clare Ward (who also runs the show at Akasha). Click for larger versions.


sacred cow [$12.00] | sloane's gin, yogurt and apricot liqueur, lemon, honey, egg white, saffron bitters, pistachio crumble
We made sure to give the cocktails a whirl, and started with this seemingly lassi-inspired number. It did a commendable job paying homage to the classic drink, a creamy, viscous concoction with plenty of juicy, fruity flavors countered by notes of pistachio, lemon, and egg white.


samosa [$5.00] | weiser potatoes, carrots, green beans, black pepper & fennel dough, pomegranate-mint chutney
The samosas were very good, better than a lot that I've had at traditional Indian joints in fact, with a great depth of savor to 'em that paired perfectly with the minty chutney on the side.


sevpuri chaat [$5.00] | teff puris, green mango, avocado, red onion, pomegranate-mint chutney, tamarind chutney, sev
Sambar's take on sevpuri also delivered with its fantastic crunch, minty-sweet interplay, creeping spice, and cooling avocado component.


darjeeling express [$12.00] | darjeeling tea infused white whiskey, lemon, spiced honey reduction
Light tea tartness and funk on the nose here, with a palate that played the booziness of whiskey against lemon and honey, the finish coming in with just a hint more of the Darjeeling.


chowpatty beach corn [$4.00] | paneer, cumin, pepper, black salt & lime
I was pretty satisfied with Sambar's ode to the grilled cobs oft sold on Mumbai's famous beach, the corn arriving sweet, yet countered by a lingering spice while the cheese imparted an additional bit of weightiness to the ears.


cauliflower & onion pakoras [$6.00] | chickpea batter, tamarind-date chutney
The pakoras showed off a light, crisp batter, though I really wanted more spicing in said batter. They were tasty little bites still, nicely paired with the zip of the accompanying chutney.


the maharaja [$12.00] | rye, kummel combier, carrot syrup, beet shrub, lemon juice
Next to imbibe was a take on kanji, a fermented beverage featuring carrots and beet that's consumed during Holi. I've not had the traditional drink before, but the cocktail worked for the most part, conveying a mix of spicy, aromatic, and sweet notes over a base of rye, all accented by lemon.


cheese thali [$11.00] | goat & cow paneer, yogurt cheese, naan, gujarati crackers, pappadum, chutney, lemon pickle, spiced pistachios
Instead of the metal tray setup one typically finds with thali, Sambar's version came out looking more like a cheese-n-charcuterie board. The actual cheeses were on point though, as creamy and lush and lactic as I wanted, and well matched to the crunchy crackers, delightfully savory papadum, and hot, fluffy, buttery naan.


lemon rice [$6.00] | mustard seeds, curry leaves & toasted dal
Lemon rice was a nice change of pace from your typical basmati preparation, with the long, well-textured grains permeated with a well-placed lemon-y kick.


road to rishikesh [$12.00] | ford's gin, aloe liqueur, lime, holy basil bitters, bubbles
Our next cocktail did a good job playing notes of basil against the sweet, floral qualities of aloe, a combination that worked quite well with the gin's inherent botanical edge.


head-on prawns [$16.00] | mango powder marinade, preserved tomato chutney, lime
Prawns were well-seasoned, though completely mushy texture-wise. A shame.


truck stop goat curry [$15.00] | slow braised in a cumin, tomato, onion & goat yogurt sauce
The curry looking appealing, and indeed, the actual goat arrived properly tender, but with just enough chew to it. Flavor-wise, things were going in the right direction as well, but the dish definitely could've used more depth, more oomph.


gypsy caravan [$12.00] | tequila cabeza, triple sec, kokum, sour cherry, lime, masala salt rim
A margarita-esque cocktail was palatable, light in body and in the booze department, with a spicy-sour quality to it.


pork shoulder vindaloo [$16.00] | turmeric naan, pickled okra, malabar hot sauce, mango chutney
We found it hard not to order this porchetta-like dish, which is ostensibly marinated in vindaloo spices. Lovely crisp skin here and overall porkiness, though again, I wanted some more aggressive seasoning, more spice, more piquancy.


gunpowder potatoes [$5.00] | gunpowder sesame masala, preserved tomato chutney
Potatoes were hearty and on point texturally, with just enough of that molagapodi kick.


smuggling monk [$12.00] | coffee infused scotch, carpano antica, coconut liqueur, chocolate & angostura bitters
A very coffee-forward cocktail, which I appreciated, with simultaneously notes of bittersweet dark fruit and a very palpable booziness.


mississippi masala chicken wings [$11.00] | hot sauce, summer fruit chutney
Next up: chicken wings (and drumsticks), a particularly "fluffy" preparation with enough masala flair to make 'em interesting.


turmeric naan [$3.00] | traditional punjabi flatbread with fresh turmeric & kalonji seeds
Made in a Beech oven (held over from the FFS days) instead of the traditional tandoor, the naan was an exceptionally yellow example, and spongier and denser than usual, but still delicious.


last train to goa [$10.00] | bourbon, pomegranate, tart cherry, xta, lemon, orange bitters
Our sole item from the punch section of the cocktail list, this definitely veered tart, sour, with a slightly medicinal tinge to pair with the bourbon.


backwater shrimp stir-fry [$15.00] | kerala style with red amaranth, tomato, lime
In our final savory, shrimp arrived slightly over, but still imbued with a noticeable brine, which I appreciated. It all made sense with the sweet-tangy combination of flavors here, though once again, I wanted more potency to the dish.


vanilla soft serve sundae [$7.00] | akasha's cookie crumble, coconut-chocolate sauce, cashews & peanuts, preserved local cherry
Time for dessert. Sambar's sundae was pretty much spot on: velvety smooth, with a classic flavor profile tarted up by the addition of the spicy crumbles up top.


blood moon over bengal [$12.00] | medley bros. bourbon, falernum, orgeat, spiced blood orange liqueur, lime juice
Seemingly a take on the Mai Tai, this final cocktail may have been my favorite of the night. I found it very well put together, with an enveloping sweetness, spice, and fruitiness accented by pricks of lime that really sang over the drink's base of bourbon.


cookie plate [$5.00] | turmeric poppy seed, chai spiced chocolate chunk, pistachio thumbprint with berry jam, dark chocolate goji berry, coconut cashew, chocolate dipped early grey shortbread with pistachio-almond-cashew dust
An assortment of cookies stood up well to Sambar's "New Wave Masala" treatment.


coffee ice cream pie [$8.00] | flourless chocolate crust, coconut-chocolate sauce
We ended with my favorite of the desserts. Some great coffee notes on this one to go with the chocolate, and fantastic crust as well.

Our experience at Sambar was mostly good, though somewhat uneven. There were definitely dishes that worked, that captured the essence and diversity of Indian cookery and blended it with the restaurant's sort of Cal cuisine core. However, there were also courses that really needed a kick in the pants in the robustness department (as well as that mushy shrimp). Hopefully things will get worked out as the kitchen grows, evolves, and gains more confidence.

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Aussie Pie Kitchen (Santa Monica, CA)

September 20, 2015, 5:30 pm

≫ Next: Adobo Taco Grill (Lakewood, CA)

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Aussie Pie Kitchen
2510 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.399.0743
www.aussiepiekitchen.com
Sun 08/02/2015, 05:30p-07:00p





Back in Australia, meat pies are a street food staple, most often produced in bulk and sold at take-away joints. The thought behind Aussie Pie Kitchen, however, is to introduce a more elevated version of the iconic dish to American palates. APK is the brainchild of longtime marketing exec Nick Bishop and partner/love interest Geri Chua. The two first started formulating plans back in late 2013, signed the lease for the old Manchego space in April last year, and debuted the restaurant in October. Directing the culinary side of things here is Joe Youkhan, a New York native and Chopped winner who cut his teeth in the Orange County food scene, having spent considerable time with David Wilhelm's Culinary Adventures group.


The menu currently features seven pie varieties, joined by a handful of sides that are also available as "stack" combos. Breakfast ("brekkie") pies are offered earlier in the day, and there are a smattering of desserts as well. To drink, you get sundry non-alcoholic beverages as well as a surprisingly comprehensive coffee program featuring beans from Vittoria, Australia's largest producer. Click for a larger version.


Steak & Shiraz (Syrah) + Tiger Stack [$8.95 + $7.00] | Steak Cubes marinated in Red Wine, Braised in Mirepoix, Herbs & Spices
We began with a traditional steak preparation with the Tiger Stack treatment applied, which adds on Minty Mushy Peas (Peas, Shallots, Butter, Fresh Mint), Garlic Mash (Roasted Garlic Hand Mashed Yukon Gold Potatoes with butter, salt + pepper), and a splash of Creamy Thyme Gravy (Cream, Thyme, Chicken Base). It was a homey sort of eating experience, with the tender, well-spiced chunks of meat working quite well alongside the pot pie-esque crust and hearty base of potato. There was a lovely bit of brightness from the peas, and I appreciated how the herby sauce helped tie everything together.


BYOB was certainly called for given the food, and up first was a bottle of the 2015 Council Mango Beatitude, a tart saison with mango. I found it super refreshing, especially on this hot day, with a sour-ish nose displaying notes of slight mango leading to tart, grainy, yeasty flavors with more of that juicy tropical fruit bringing up the rear.


Lamb & Rosemary [$11.95] | Ground Lamb marinated in Red Wine, Braised in Mirepoix, Herbs & Spices
The lamb variant was a bit more assertive in terms of taste, with a punchy herbiness to it that paired swimmingly with the pie's buttery, crunchy crust (which apparently incorporates pie crust on the bottom and croissant dough up top).


Next to drink was the 2015 Cigar City Cow Boss, a one-off imperial milk stout brewed in collaboration with the Florida Cattlemen's Foundation and aged on cypress wood. The beer was super smooth, and quite chocolate-y, with a bit of spice and coffee coming in toward the back end.


Classic Aussie - Ground Beef [$7.95] | Ground Beef marinated in Red Wine, Braised in Mirepoix, Herbs & Spices
The O.G. Aussie meat pie was classic at its core, with its savory, beefy flavors melding well with the creaminess of the accompanying gravy.


My favorite bottle this go around was the 2015 Hangar 24 Barrel Roll: Sanguinello, a limited-release sour blonde aged in Sauvignon Blanc barrels with blood orange. It was delightfully tart, and just funky enough with the sweet, aromatic kick of the fruit making itself apparent on the finish.


Kiwi Classic - AKA "Cheeseburger Pie" [$8.95] | Ground Beef marinated in Red Wine, Braised in Mirepoix, Herbs & Spices, and some Cheddar
The ostensibly New Zealand-inspired variation of the meat pie added cheddar into the mix, which imparted a welcomed, further bit of heft to the dish.


The most intense beer of the night had to be the 2015 Modern Times Monsters' Park Aged in Nicaraguan Rum Barrels with Rum Barrel-Aged Coffee, one of only 625 bottles produced. On the nose, I got super deep, super heady notes of rum spice and booze. On the palate, a different story, with the initial intensity of the barrel and alcoholic heat giving way to classic nuances of roast, chocolate, and malt, the coffee leading the way to a long finish.


Surfer's Paradise [$8.95] | Green Curry Chicken Thighs in Coconut Milk & Garnet Yams (Sweet with a little spicy kick) Serve it hot or cold
This was my least favorite of the pies. I got way too much citrus here, too much sweetness to go along with the curry-esque spice present. The chicken was overshadowed.


Edamame & Sweetcorn Succotash [$4.00]
A highlight of the meal was definitely the succotash, with its bright, fresh, subtly sweet flavors and satisfying textures delivering in a big way.


The lone India pale ale tonight was the 2015 Beachwood Hopernicus, a DIPA made to commemorate the brewery's fourth anniversary. Featuring a sextet of hops--Citra, Mosaic, Comet, Galaxy, Millennium, Equinox--the beer showed off a wonderfully juicy, tropical nose with a backbone of hoppiness. On the palate, I found it much more malt forward, with a counteracting bitterness and more citrus toward the back end.


Chicken Tarragon [$8.95] | Chicken Thighs Marinated in Chardonnay, Worstershire & lemon Zest, Caramelized on a skillet, Braised with Cream Mirepoix, Herbs & Spices
The previous chicken pie didn't allow the main ingredient to shine, so I was glad that the protein was placed on proud display here, enhanced by its marinades while the various spices and herbs worked as fitting accents.


Nanna Mac's Twice Rolled Lamingtons [$3.50] | White sponge rolled in chocolate and coconut
Time for the sweet stuff, and first up was APK's lamington. I liked it, finding the cake fluffy and moist, with a good balance between the coconut and chocolate.


Our final bottle brought out the 2015 Terrapin Maggie's Blackberry Cobbler, an imperial farmhouse ale brewed with fresh blackberries and graham crackers. It was properly dessert-y, with massive amounts of berry pie in the aroma. The fruit continued on to the palate, though it veered a touch artificial, with the graham coming in later as a moderating element.


"T.C" Ice Cream Pie [$6.95] | Vittoria Espresso with toffee, dates, Vanilla Ice Cream, and toasted almonds
I enjoyed the ice cream pie as well, which had some lovely dark fruit and spice notes to go along with its vanilla center.


Finishing things off was a serving of Flat White [$4], an Australian invention comprising espresso topped with a layer of steamed milk microfoam. It was rather tasty, super silky in terms of mouthfeel, with a great interplay between the coffee and the milk.

This was my first time experiencing Aussie meat pies, so I don't exactly have a firm basis for comparison (haven't been to Bronzed Aussie or Garlo's), but I did largely enjoy what I had--basically meat-centric preparations supported by buttery, flaky crusts. It's a straightforward but effective combination. People really seem to be liking the place though, as the restaurant is already in the process of expanding. They're taking over the old India Grill Express address in Inglewood (near the airport) and turning it into a small restaurant and large-scale production facility to support APK's significant catering business. This second location should be debuting in the coming weeks.

Adobo Taco Grill (Lakewood, CA)

September 22, 2015, 7:05 pm

≫ Next: Hatchet Hall (Culver City, CA)

≪ Previous: Aussie Pie Kitchen (Santa Monica, CA)

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Adobo Taco Grill Restaurant
5695 Woodruff Ave, Lakewood, CA 90713
562.866.0608
www.facebook.com/adobotacogrill
Sun 08/23/2015, 07:05p-08:35p





One of the more random meals of recent times occurred at Adobo Taco Grill, situated in a sleepy section of the model suburbia that is Lakewood. The place opened back in October last year but has developed quite a following, as evinced by the restaurant's near-perfect Yelp rating.



Inside, things are bright, clean, and jam-packed, even on a Sunday. Seating is limited, comprising three high two-tops, a four-top, a six-top, and an eight-seater "communal table."


The menu is simple enough: your choice of seven meats, in taco, burrito, quesadilla, or vampiro format. Click for a larger version.


Tacos are served bare, so condiments are available for the taking.


The Horchata [$2.29] was a classic presentation, a blend of sweet, creamy, and spicy that worked to temper the heat present in the food.


Vampiro de Chorizo [$2.75]
The most unconventional item on the menu is certainly the vampiro, which is basically an open-faced taco, served atop a grilled-crispy tortilla with cheese, guac, and crema added. There was a fantastic crunch here thanks to the toasting action, and the cheese melded well with the chorizo as well. However, I wanted more spicing on the sausage, so that it could better stand up to the lushness of the cream and avocado present.


Sort of my main motivation for coming here was the ease in which I thought I could BYOB. And indeed, the number of people in the restaurant and the general commotion made slipping in beer pretty easy, actually. First up was the 2015 Other Half Hop Showers, a IPA form New York incorporating Citra, Amarillo, and Ahtanum hops. It was a fairly textbook example of the style, with a hoppy, citrus-y nose leading to flavors of pine and juicy lemon. Quite nice.



Taco de Asada [$1.59]
We had to get the standard carne asada taco of course. The meat itself was probably better than most, tender enough, but with a bit of chew. It paired well with the tang of the pickle-y onions here, the zip of the salsa verde making things all the better.


Quesadilla de Maíz de Camarones [$3.75]
One of the highlights for me was the shrimp quesadilla, which was probably one of the best quesadillas I've had, period. Great brine and snap on the camarones here, and I loved how they paired with the veggies and slight char of the corn tortilla. Very well integrated.


Next to drink was the 2015 Victory Kirsch Gose, a sour cherry beer. I really liked this one, finding it fizzy and totally refreshing, its bright, tart, funky cherry flavors up front leading to a finish with restrained notes of wheat, lemon, and salt.


In the center of the restaurant lies a crock-pot filled with complementary frijoles de la olla, a classic, hearty whole bean stew that was even better with a dash of green sauce.


The 2015 Cismontane 5th Anniversary 5 Grain Saison was a limited release from earlier in the year. Meant to celebrate Cismontane's fifth birthday, the beer was brewed with five grains--rice, corn, barley, rye, and spelt--and meant for aging. It was very likely the heftiest saison I've tasted, malty and aromatic on the nose, with more deep, sweet malt coming on the palate. I really wanted more spicy character, more farmhouse here though.



Taco de Lengua [$1.59]
Tongue was super tender, delicate to the taste, and one of the better versions I've had, really meshing nicely with the slight smoke in the salsa.


Quesadilla de Harina de Pollo Adobado [$3.25]
A flour quesadilla showed off the restaurant's namesake adobo, the chicken coming out deeply flavored and delicious, beautifully matched to the gooey cheese. Very good.


The Melón [$2.29]agua fresca was also quite lovely, conveying a very true-to-life cantaloupe flavor. I wish it would've been served colder, though.



Taco de Cabeza [$1.59]
Beef head was as tender as you'd expect, with deeply bovine flavors at the forefront, though perhaps the meat could've used a touch more spicing.


Inspired by its eponymous dessert, the 2015 Funky Buddha Blueberry Cobbler was a wheat ale with blueberries, cinnamon, and vanilla added. Think loads of (slightly artificial) berry flavor up front, intermingled with vanilla and hints of Graham cracker crust. Somewhat reminiscent of the Terrapin Maggie's Blackberry Cobbler I'd had recently at Aussie Pie Kitchen.


Vampiro de Pastor [$2.75]
Our second vampiro hit the mark, the pork coming out scrumptiously flavored and well matched to the crema and guac. And again, fantastic crunch from the tortilla.


For the vampiros, Adobo's homemade tortillas are toasted on a flat top grill.


Our final agua fresca was the Pepino [$2.29], which featured the coolness of cucumber backed by a refreshing citrusy sweetness.



Taco de Carnitas [$1.59]
The carnitas was one of the standout meats, arriving super tender, super juicy, with boatloads of porky flavor. Excellent here when taken with the tangy red onion.


Our last beer was the 2015 Avery Insula Multos Collibus, a sour ale aged in bourbon barrels for nine months, with cherries added. Ostensibly inspired by the Manhattan cocktail, this one was tasty, with a strong core of tart, dark fruit commingled with chocolate, oak, booze, and vanilla. Quite acidic as well.


Quesadilla de Maíz de Lengua [$3.25]
A corn quesadilla featured tongue as its stuffing, the soft, mild meat working well alongside the sheer cheesiness of the dish.



Burrito de Asada [$6.25]
We had to conclude with the ubiquitous carne asada burrito. This staple of Mexican-American cookery was well presented, coming out better than most. The actual meat wasn't overly dry or tough as it often is, and matched swimmingly with the overarching herby notes here. Great balance between the rice and beans as well, which complemented, but didn't overpower the beef.

We left Adobo very satisfied. It's sort of an odd find in Lakewood, but definitely delivered with its ever-so-slightly-elevated take on SoCal Mexican fare and surprisingly congenial service. In fact, I'd come here more regularly if the lines weren't so long.

Hatchet Hall (Culver City, CA)

September 24, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Arturo's Puffy Taco (Whittier, CA)

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Hatchet Hall Restaurant
12517 W Washington Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90066
310.391.4222
www.hatchethallla.com
Sun 08/16/2015, 08:00p-01:20a





The last time we checked in with Brian Dunsmoor and Jonathan Strader, the two were heading things up at the Ladies' Gunboat Society at Flores. That was August last year. By October, they were gone from the restaurant, a departure that followed their exit from The Hart and The Hunter a month earlier. Dunsmoor and Strader have partnered with Louie Ryan of Temple Bar Concepts (Townhouse Cocktails and The Del Monte speakeasy in Venice) for their latest project, Hatchet Hall, a wood-fired-centric eatery that aims to blend Southern cooking with Southern Californian sensibility. The restaurant debuted on July 7th with Chef de Cuisine Jack Leahy running the day-to-day.


Hatchet Hall occupies the A-Frame-adjacent building that formerly held Brendan Collins'Waterloo & City (and the Crest House before that). The large-yet-cozy 125-seater space comes with a whitewashed oyster bar and private dining room that'd make grandma proud. There's also a patio out front, and a speakeasy-esque, wood-paneled "Old Man Bar" toward the rear that supposedly served as a gathering place for old timers back in the Crest House days.


As for the menu, think rustic Cal-Southern, with a good number of the dishes cooked in a wood-fired hearth. Booze-wise, Daniel "Cappy" Sorentino (Townhouse Cocktails, Scopa, Spruce, Spoonbar) mans the bar program and offers up two cocktail lists: one containing lighter and on-tap beverages at the main bar, the other featuring more spirit-forward drinks for the Old Man Bar. Meanwhile, wine duties are handled by Maxwell Leer (Bestia, LudoBites 8.0, The Bazaar, The Tasting Kitchen), with help from buddy Adam Vourvoulis (Petit Trois, Trois Mec, ink, Mozza, Church & State), so the list is as esoteric and as irreverent as you'd expect (and requiring of much 'splaining). Click for larger versions.


root beer gin & tonic [$12.00] | aviation gin, house made tonic water with root beer spices
Kicking things off was one of Hatchet Hall's more lighthearted cocktails. A take on root beer, the drink was a bit funky, and almost floral initially, with the sweet, lingering root beer spices coming in toward the midpalate. Neat.


blue crab "fingers" claws, old fashion vinegar dressing, herbs [$16.00]
Blue crab was a crowd pleaser, the crustacean's cool, sweet brine set off brilliantly by the creamy, dill-infused dressing.


Vourvoulis brought out a gruner-coke™ [$8], one of the four house-bottled Coca-Cola-inspired libations on offer. Comprising Grüner Veltliner, grapefruit, and Coke, it made for a pretty stellar concoction, an utterly refreshing drink imbued with juicy notes of citrus while the wine lent the necessary gravitas.


benne yeast rolls, honey butter, sea salt [$6.00]
Rolls were on point, coming out just slightly sweet. The smooth, saccharine butter made things even better.


In North Carolina, mixing peanuts in with your Pepsi is a thing apparently. Taking inspiration from that Southern tradition, we had here the #wineshotz5OVO! [$5], combining the red peanuts on the menu with Grüner. The nuts actually worked better than I thought they would, giving a salty, nutty finish to the otherwise sweet-ish, easy-drinking wine. This is supposed to be taken as a shot, but I'd be a bit wary given the potential choking hazard.


grilled baby corn, really good butter, sea salt, black pepper [$11.00]
Baby corn arrived rather cute I have to say, well-textured stalks that had a sweetness to 'em that was kicked up a notch by a smear of that sugary, luscious butter on the side. Even the husks were edible, imparting a touch of char to the experience.


Keeping with the cola theme, next was the kalimotxo-inspired kali-coke™ [$8]. Combining Coca-Cola, rosé Lambrusco, and housemade vermouth, this one was delicious as well, with a beautiful spice character and a persistent grapiness.


wood grilled octopus, cannellini beans, treviso, lemon aioli, salsa verde [$19.00]
Octo was a must-try of course, and didn't disappoint, arriving super tender, yet lovingly charred, its heft offset by the combo of aioli and salsa verde while the beans moderated it all. A table favorite.


coconut mojito [$12.00] | angostura white rum, wray & nephew rum, mint, coconut, lime, tiki bitters
A coconut-enriched mojito was a smart take on the traditional cocktail, with the tropical sweetness of the fruit very apparent at first, but then giving way to classic nuances of mint and lime toward the back end.


chop steak, saletta, bread crumbs, herbs, cured egg yolk [$12.00]
The tartar was one of the more beef-forward preparations I've had, with the springy, supple steak well conveyed, augmented by the presence of egg yolk while breadcrumbs gave up a much appreciated crunchiness.


roger rabbit [$12.00] | luna azul tequila, passion fruit, hibiscus, cinnamon, gran classico, lemon, honey
Next was arguably my favorite cocktail of the evening. There was seemingly a lot going on here, but everything--the sweetness of passion fruit, spice, bitterness, the overarching notes of citrus--all came together cohesively for me. Very cool.


grilled santa barbara squid, smoked paprika, chili, garlic [$15.00]
Squid was tender but still snappy, its delicate salinity smartly complemented, but not overwhelmed by a deep, earthy spice and lovely hit of smoke.


I had with me a bottle of the 2015 The Bruery Terreux Souren, which we opened at this point. A new collaborative brew with New Zealand's 8 Wired, the beer was a sour Belgian-style golden ale with Pinot Noir grapes added. I really enjoyed this one, finding it to be one of the best sours I've had from the brewery. Think tart, farmhouse, and spicy, but with a wonderful, pervasive grape-y character from the pinot.


lamb sausage, black eyed peas, sungold, tomato jam, mint [$15.00]
The lamb was a homey sort of preparation, immensely savory but balanced by a palpable herbiness while the peas were effective in evening out the dish.


We then had a taste of the #birtoktinon13 (2013 Samuel Tinon Tokaji Birtok), which was definitely to my liking. Think really aromatic, almost funky on the nose, with the taste giving up earth, salinity, dry fruit, and an almost oxidative quality.


local mushrooms, burgundy snails, vermouth, antebellum grits, soft herbs [$17.00]
Mushrooms were as earthy and as deep as you'd expect, but kicked up another level by the escargots. The grits, meanwhile, were spot on, and absolutely key in tempering the otherwise potent flavors at play.


We also had a cider with us, the 2015 Reverend Nat's The Passion, which combined both apple and passion fruit juices. The end result was quite sweet, with loads of passion fruit on the palate joined by an undercurrent of tartness and plenty of acidity.


sweet corn succotash, baby limas, cherry tomatoes, cream, mint, lemon [$8.00]
Succotash was a prime example of such: sweet and buttery, with a plethora of textures and a lovely overtone of mint throughout.


grilled okra, calabrian chili, pickled garlic, mint [$8.00]
The okra was even better, one of the best uses of the ingredient that I've tasted. I appreciated how the mucilaginous nature of the pods was minimized here, not to mention the deep, heady, spicy, almost Asian-y flavors, perked up once again by mint.


strawberry daiquiri [$12.00] | mount gay black barrel rum, rhum j.m. gold, smoked strawberry, byrrh
Next was probably the most intriguing daiquiri I've had, displaying an in-your-face smoke on the nose, while the palate went tart and sweet, but with a smoky, savory finish that seriously recalled BBQ sauce.


skillet fried quails, peach, basil, warm honey, black pepper [$29.00]
Quails were near-perfectly fried, coming out delightfully crisp, yet still moist and tender on the inside. I appreciated the juicy notes of peach here, though I wasn't quite as sold on the honey, which went overly sugary.


butter field peas, VA ham, parsley [$8.00]
Field peas made for a hearty, homey dish, with a richness from the ham that matched well with the zip of parsley.


We were then provided with the Binner'13 (2013 Audrey et Christian Binner Vin D'Alsace Riesling), made using natural/biodynamic methods. I quite liked it and its crisp, mineral-laced, subtly sweet, slightly petrol-y qualities, though one of my dining companions didn't care for it at all, deeming the wine fundamentally flawed.


grilled carrots, warm honey, chimichurri, yogurt, benne [$8.00]
Carrots made for our final savory course, dense, charred examples loaded with a sweetness that made total sense against the yogurt here.


Desserts at Hatchet Hall are the realm of Pastry Chef Paige Russell, who worked with Dunsmoor previously at Ladies' Gunboat Society and also spent time at Tavern. Click for a larger version.


caramelized goat milk panna cotta, dark chocolate, creme fraiche [$11.00]
Panna cotta gave up a mix of sweet and almost smoky flavors, as well as a saltiness that went a little overboard, though the crème fraîche did help rein things in.


Our second beer brought out the 2015 The Bruery Melange 10, a Hoarders-exclusive bourbon barrel-aged old ale with ancho chiles, chocolate, and cinnamon added. Nose of dark fruit and light chocolate; the taste follows, with the chocolate taking center stage, joined by spicy cinnamon while the heat of the anchos kicked in later.


coconut cream cake, preserved rhubarb, coconut lime sherbet [$11.00]
A coconut cake came out dense and saturated, its creamy flavors countered by notes of dark fruit while lime gave up the necessary lightness. In terms of coconut cakes though, I don't think anything will surpass the Peninsula Grill-inspired version Dunsmoor and Kris Tominaga had at The Hart and The Hunter.


strawberry cream float, honeycomb ice cream, vanilla cream soda [$11.00]
My favorite of the desserts was this perfect float, one that showed off a flawless interplay of strawberry and ice cream, with the cream soda providing a wonderfully crisp effervescence to things.


We were then presented with Hatchet Hall's ☺coffee™ [$50] program, basically a take on the Italian tradition of caffè alla valdostana. Contained in a coppa dell'amicizia or "friendship cup" (oft mistakenly referred to as a grolla) was a combination of French press coffee, white port, orange liqueur, and sugar, with Diesel neutral grain spirit making for the pyrotechnics and the most impressive after-dinner show since Faith & Flower's "Russian style" absinthe service. We were then instructed to pass the cup around and each drink out of one of the spouts. The combination was pretty damn tasty, an amalgam of citrus and alcoholic heat layered over a base of aromatic coffee.


benne & peach bread pudding, blueberries, vanilla bean ice cream [$11.00]
The bread pudding was a commendable rendition of the classic dessert, an eggy, rich, yet somehow light preparation with a tried-n-true mix of berry and vanilla bean flavors.


cookie plate, vanilla ice milk [$11.00]
The cookie plate's worth trying as well, with updated versions of traditional treats working swimmingly with the almost bracing character of ice milk.


We were also able to sample Hatchet Hall's take on the Mexican Bulldog, one substituting the gruner-coke™ above for the usual Corona.


With dinner proper dispensed with, we headed on over to the Old Man Bar in the back.


beet medicine [$12.00] | famous grouse scotch, smoked beet, lemon, ginger, laphroaig cask strength scotch
Our first of four cocktails was my favorite of the group. Beautiful incorporation of smoky elements here, along with notes of beet, zesty ginger, and an enveloping citrus character to finish things off.


argentinian [$12.00] | blend of fernets, lime, coke cola redox, barrel aged bitters
A commixture of fernets made for a spicy, herbal, medicinal, bittersweet base of flavors that made sense with the cola reduction, the lime serving as a well-placed accent to the drink.


beau du bois [$12.00] | tequila ocho blanco, cinnamon & hibiscus gran classico, alessio torino vermouth
I didn't get too much tequila here. Rather, for me this was a showcase of the Gran Classico and Alessio, a viscous drink teeming with bitter, sweet, botanical characteristics interspersed with cinnamon-y spice.


julep no. 1 [$12.00] | rittenhouse rye, park v.s. cognac, cynar, amburana cachaça, mint
We closed with the bar's take on the julep, a much more multifaceted example than most that really highlighted the interplay between Cynar and the zippiness of mint, all while the trio of spirits provided the necessary potency.

We all left Hatchet Hall duly impressed. This is certainly Dunsmoor's strongest cooking to date, the clearest, most robust, and yet most refined interpretation of his Southern-leaning culinary stylings. Add in a top-notch cocktail program and a strong FOH, and you get a major addition to the Westside scene indeed.

Arturo's Puffy Taco (Whittier, CA)

September 27, 2015, 7:55 pm

≫ Next: Maré (Los Angeles, CA)

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Arturo's Puffy Taco
15693 Leffingwell Rd, Whittier, CA 90604
562.947.2250
Tue 06/23/2015, 07:55p-09:45p





I recently crossed off another restaurant on my "to-eat" spreadsheet, one that'd been on there almost since the beginning. I'd been curious about Arturo's and its puffy tacos for years, but its somewhat out-of-the-way location had kept me away until now.

Some background: Puffy tacos are like regular Tex-Mex-style hard shell tacos, but with the standard tortilla replaced with a wrapper of deep-fried masa dough. It's unclear when and where they were invented. One popular story states that they first became popular in 1978, when Henry Lopez opened Henry's Puffy Tacos in San Antonio; Henry's old brother Arturo subsequently opened Arturo's Puffy Taco in Whittier (as well as La Habra--that location has since closed) soon afterward. On the other hand, another version of the tale mentions that the puffy taco was actually born in SoCal, with Arturo bringing the creation back to his family in Texas; in addition to Henry's, the tacos are also installed at Ray's Drive Inn, which was opened in 1956 by Henry and Arturo's father Ray but only started serving the tacos a decade or so later. Or, Ray actually came up with the taco and passed it on to his sons. There are conflicting stories everywhere.


You order outside, but food is delivered through the window pictured above. Seating is both indoors and out.


As for Arturo's' menu, the puffy tacos are obviously the main draw, but you also get your usual Mexican-American fast food fare, plus burgers. Click for a larger version.


Two types of salsa were on offer: a prototypical rojo and a brighter, spicier verde.


Taco de Picadillo [$2.50] | ground beef
Naturally, we had to start with the signature item here, and it did not disappoint. The filling of ground meat came out smartly-spiced, its straightforward, satisfying savoriness well-matched to the classic combination of lettuce, tomato, and bright yellow cheese. The crux of the dish, though, was that puffy shell of course, which was simultaneously crisp, fluffy, airy, and substantial, a wonderful commingling of textures that also imparted its own deep-fried relish to the taco.


In addition to all the food, we also ordered a large cup of Orange Juicy Whip [$2.45], which, from what I can tell, is basically identical to Orange Bang (not having had Orange Bang before). The taste? Think liquid Orange Creamsicle--not bad.


Strips Texanas [$3.00] | w/cheese, avocado sauce & hot sauce
Nachos, curiously, are called "strips" here, and the Texanas preparation was particularly trashy.


Taco de Carne Asada [$2.95] | steak
The asada also made for a great filling, the meat arriving surprisingly tender, with a nice char to it.


Tacos call for beer of course, so we BYOB'd it and got things going with the oft-hyped 2015 Logsdon Peche 'n Brett, an oak-aged saison refermented with peaches as well as pear juice. I'd had this almost exactly a year ago at Superba Food + Bread, but preferred tonight's bottle. There was such a depth from the peach here that really appealed to me, a fruitiness and a sweetness, but all countered by a dry, Brett-y character and subtle bitterness. Superb.


Enchilada Only [$2.00]
Enchiladas, meanwhile, were super gooey, monolithic masses of cheese and tortilla that were so, so heavy.


Taco de Carne Guizada [$2.65]
The long-stewed guisada might've been my favorite filling, with its supple consistency and deeply-developed flavors.


Next was the just-released 2015 Smog City Unity, a tart saison created in collaboration with the LA Brewers Guild to celebrate LA Beer Week 7. I quite liked this one as well, a bright, refreshing beer with its expectedly tart notes joined by contrasting hits of spice, grain, sweet fruit, and yeast.


Taquitos Texanos [$2.65] | w/avocado, cheese & hot sauce
Taquitos were textbook, crispy examples that made sense with the trio of accoutrements up top.


Taco de Pollo [$2.65] | chicken
The chicken was surprisingly hefty, with the large chunks of the bird perhaps not working as well as some of the other meats here.


We concluded with the 2015 Ninkasi Ground Control, an imperial stout brewed with Oregon hazelnuts, star anise, cocoa nibs, and yeast that was actually sent to space and back. I'm not sure if said space yeast did much for the beer, but it was tasty enough, with your classic roasty, malty nuances accented by a general overarching layer of sweet spice.



Guizada Quesadilla [$4.85]
The quesadilla was brick-like in appearance, an amalgam of meat, cheese, and tortilla that recalled the microwaveable chimichangas of my childhood (and I mean that in a good way).


Taco de Carnitas [$2.75] | pork
Given all the puffiness, we opted for a standard soft corn tortilla in our final taco. It worked well enough, but couldn't hold a candle to the puffy.

I was finally able to try the O.G. puffy taco after all these years, and it did not let me down, a culinary mash-up that exemplifies the best of Tex-Mex cookery. Y'all need to get on this if you haven't already.

Maré (Los Angeles, CA)

September 28, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Long Beach Creamery (Long Beach, CA)

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Mare Restaurant
7465 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046
323.592.3226
www.maremelrose.com
Tue 08/25/2015, 08:00p-12:00a



One of the most surprising (as in we didn't know it was coming) debuts of 2015 has got to be Eric Greenspan's Maré, which opened quietly in May. It's a rustic, seafood-centric joint set in the former back patio of The Foundry, a joint venture between the Chef, Jim Hustead, and Stone Oven's James Moon.

About the Chef: Greenspan was born in 1975 to a Jewish family from New Jersey, though his parents relocated to California when he was nine years old. They settled in Fullerton at first, then moved to Calabasas, where he attended high school and formed a punk rock band named The Green Armpits (they were supposed to be the next Bad Religion). Greenspan attended UC Berkeley's Haas School of Business, majoring in Entrepreneurship and Marketing, and during his stay at Cal, got his first restaurant job. He began as a dishwasher at the City's iconic Caffe Mediterraneum, but quickly moved up to cook and eventually head chef. Along with meals at legendary Cal-Cuisine eatery Chez Panisse, his experience at Cafe Med cemented his desire to pursue cooking professionally.

Thus, Greenspan enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, and after graduating, moved to New York, where he stayed for four years. During his tenure in NYC, he worked under Rocco DiSpirito at Union Pacific (the two had a tumultuous relationship) and also spent time at David Bouley's eponymous Bouley and Alain Ducasse at the Essex House. In the summer of 2001, Greenspan left New York for a month-long, game-changing stage at El Bulli, and following, returned home to LA. He found work as sous at Patina under none other than Walter Manzke, and became Executive Chef a year later at age 27. The restaurant's move to the Walt Disney Concert Hall in 2003 eventually forced him out, and in 2004, Greenspan was made opening Exec Chef at Tim and Liza Goodell's Meson G (in the spot that most recently held Hatfield's). That job lasted only a few months though, and he was out by 2005, replaced by Josef Centeno.

The Chef floated around for a couple years, doing trade shows and teaching at the Kitchen Academy in Hollywood. However, in May 2007, he launched The Foundry on Melrose, his first solo venture and the restaurant that really solidified his name in the LA dining scene. During this period, Greenspan competed on Season 2 of The Next Iron Chef (he was the first one eliminated), beat Bobby Flay in a goose battle on Iron Chef America, and returned to The Next Iron Chef during Season 5 (where he lasted just a bit longer). In 2009, he brought on board Jim Hustead (Saint Martha), and the two quickly announced plans for a casual place called Greenspan's Grilled Cheese, located next door to The Foundry. They eventually formed Foundation Hospitality Group in 2011, adding former Campanile GM Jay Perrin in the process (who has since left).

Foundation's first project was Roof on Wilshire, a rooftop restaurant located on top of Hotel Wilshire that debuted in September 2011; there were also plans for a fine dining eatery called Étage at the hotel, but those plans fizzled. May 2012 saw the Chef get married to longtime fiancé Jamie Molever in Palm Springs, while May 2013 witnessed the shutter of The Foundry. The indoor part of the restaurant eventually turned into cocktail den Melrose Umbrella Company, which opened in January 2014, while that April, we finally saw the debut of Greenspan's Grilled Cheese. In May last year, Greenspan took on the Consulting Chef role at WeHo's Harlowe, though his relationship with the bar has since ended.



Maré occupies the back portion of the 1936-era building that was once home to The Foundry. It's completely outdoors, a cozy, casual, calming sort of space with a nice mix of string lighting and plant life. Note that in order to get to the restaurant, you actually have to enter through the back of Greenspan's Grilled Cheese (not Melrose Umbrella Co), which leads you to a grassy antechamber replete with foosball table.


As for Maré's menu, it's pleasantly compact, reasonably priced, and described as "European coastal," replete with "Choose Your Own Adventure" seafood preps and straightforward desserts. To drink, you get a handful of beers, a couple house wines, and a smattering of lightweight cocktails. Click for a larger version.


Upon arriving, I was handed a Spicy Sangria, an off-menu welcome cocktail of sorts that conveyed boatloads of sweet, juicy fruit up front while the finish was all about a prickly, lingering heat.


At the table, loaves of herb-topped baguette quickly appeared, joined by an array of accompaniments including cherry tomatoes, pickled radishes, olives, dried figs, and berries.


SALT ROASTED POTATOES [$7.00] | with bold aioli
Potatoes were almost papas arrugadas-esque in nature, coming out hearty and salty, complemented by the creaminess of the aioli drizzles.


ROASTED BROCCOLINI [$7.00] | with chili and garlic chips
Broccolini was as crisp and bitter as you'd expect, with the chile and garlic imparting additional zippiness to the vegetable. I would've liked more char though.


Tequila + Kumquat + Citrus [$11.00]
We made sure to sample all five cocktails on the menu, starting with this tequila variant. The booze was well-integrated here, serving as a base for the sweet (but not too sweet), citrus-y flavors present.


SEARED FOIE GRAS [$21.00] | melon, fennel, crostini
The kitchen sent out a number of the night's specials, and first up was the foie. It was a spot on seared preparation, the soft, silky, richly-flavored liver gratifying in classic fashion. Great zest from the fennel, though I didn't need that much melon.


CRUDITÉ OF VEGETABLES [$10.00] | market vegetables with almond romesco and house ranch
Our crudités platter was a pretty impressive sight. Looks aside, the crisp, crunchy veggies really did work as a welcomed counterpoint to the strong flavors at play in the meal.


HEIRLOOM TOMATO PANZANELLA [$14.00] | persian cucumber, eggplant agrodolce
Another special this evening, the panzanella worked as a summer-y sort of salad, with the light, bright veggies augmented by the relative potency of agrodolce.


Vodka + Greens + Thyme [$11.00]
The vodka-based cocktail was definitely easy-drinking, with its breezy, herby flavors masking most of the booze.


CRUDO OF ALBACORE [$15.00] | plums, sea beans, fresno chili
Another special was the crudo, which featured clean, lean chunks of tuna complemented by the sweetness of fruit while sea beans added a salty edge to the dish. Nice whisper of heat too from the peppers.


FRIED SMELT [$8.00] | with roasted lemon sauce and radicchio
"Fish fingers" were fun and salty, with a great hit of lemon and the radicchio providing an underlying astringency. This actually reminded me of a similar dish I'd had not long ago at Redbird.


SHRIMP [$15.00] | vadouvan curry & green apple
Shrimp arrived nicely cooked, still snappy and briny, with a delicate vadouvan essence that complemented but didn't overwhelm.


Mezcal + Roseberry + Smoke [$11.00]
My favored cocktail was this mezcal-containing example, not surprising I suppose given my penchant for the spirit. Lovely smokiness here, well balanced by the fruit.


BLACK MUSSELS [$15.00] | spicy sausage romesco
The mussels managed to be my favorite of the core seafood selections. The bivalves came out delightfully springy, with a savory, spicy, sausage-enriched broth that worked as a flawless accompaniment.


We were also provided with noodles and poached eggs, which were designed to go with the leftover broth (I think). A bit unexpected, but reasonably effective.


Rum + Melon + Cane [$11.00]
The rum cocktail was clearly the most tropically-inspired of the bunch, showing off a fun, melon-y, pineapple-y sweetness to it.


CLAMS [$19.00] | tomatillo broth (oranges, gooseberries, clam-braised pork)
Clams were paired with a tomatillo broth, which was another special for the night. Texturally, they were right on the money, and well-matched to the tomatillo and additional heft of the braised pork. However, I did get sand in some of the clams, which was distracting.


SKIRT STEAK [$16.00] | oregano chimichurri and sea urchin butter
The steak was cooked more than I would've preferred, though it did convey a great depth of flavor that made sense with either of the two included condiments.


WHOLE BRANZINO [$19.00] | fig pomegranate glaze
Branzino came out heavily-charred, though I didn't necessarily mind that. There was actually a nice crispness on the skin, which matched well with the fish's tender, moist flesh. Flavor-wise, the branzino was spot on as well, making it one of my favorite dishes of the night.


Whiskey + Fig + Oregano [$11.00]
Our final cocktail was the booziest of the bunch, a fairly whiskey-centric presentation with a core of fig sweetness accented by the aromatics of oregano.


CHOCOLATE CHILI CREPE [$9.00] | nutella, coffee whipped cream
At this point, the kitchen sent out a sampling of all the desserts. The crêpe was a special, blending traditional chocolate flavors with a hint of heat, the whipped cream imparting a lightness to it all.


Shortbread cookies were tarted up with rosemary and sea salt. Very nice.


BLOOD ORANGE TRIFOLO [$7.00] | with semolina cake and fruit compote
The restaurant's take on the trifle featured a great sponge cake base, though I would've liked a touch less acidity from the macerated fruit.


ASSORTED SORBET [$7.00] | with bitter chocolate
Last up: a trio of very true-to-life sorbets: peach-basil, raspberry-plum, and good ol' chocolate.

It was nice to finally sample Greenspan's food after all these years (I'm a bit surprised that it'd taken this long). The place definitely leans rustic, though the cooking still shows glimpses of the Chef's schmancier leanings. Given that, it would be interesting to see what he could do, unconstrained. Greenspan and company haven't ruled out the possibility of bringing back Enclave, the fine dining restaurant initially slated for this location, so I'm curious to see if that ever comes to fruition.

Long Beach Creamery (Long Beach, CA)

September 30, 2015, 8:55 pm

≫ Next: Leona (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Maré (Los Angeles, CA)

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Long Beach Creamery
4141 Long Beach Blvd, Long Beach, CA 90807
562.513.3493
www.longbeachcreamery.com
Sun 08/23/2015, 08:55p-09:35p





After a promising dinner at Adobo Taco Grill, dessert was in order, so we headed over to the newly-opened Long Beach Creamery.

LBC was founded by one Dina Amadril, who was inspired to start experimenting with ice cream after tasting neighbor Sasha Kanno's peanut-based creation in June 2013. That August, she held her first tasting at her home, and subsequently continued to hold such tastings at Kanno's Farm Lot 59 urban farm in order to raise funds and garner interest. At the start of 2014, Amadril started looking for a location for her shop, and ended up signing a lease in August. In November 2014, she launched a Kickstarter campaign to aid in the build-out of her dairy room. The effort ended successfully, raising over $24,000, and the shop finally ended up debuting on May 17th this year.


LBC occupies the former home of Philly Steak & Sub, and inside, things are about what you'd expect. There's minimal seating indoors, but a good amount outside.


As far as the menu goes, you get a choice of a dozen or so Straus Family Creamery-based ice creams as well as sorbets. Options include a vanilla cone bowl for $1.50 and a variety of toppings. Click for a larger version.


Cashew Fennel Chip/Burnt Caramel + Vanilla Cone Bowl + Candied Bacon [$2.75 + $1.50 + $0.50]
We opted for three sets of two mini-scoops. The Cashew Fennel Chip was one of my favorites, nutty at its core, but with a delightful fennel zip toward the back end. Burnt Caramel, meanwhile, was much more intense, with a palpable smokiness set against a backbone of caramel-y sweetness. I was a big fan of the cone bowl as well, which provided a wonderful hint of vanilla, and more importantly, textural contrast to the ice cream.


Midnight Oolong/Pie Bar [$2.75]
The Midnight Oolong was a smart take on your traditional chocolate, with its classic flavors tinged by just a touch of tea astringency. On the bottom came the Pie Bar, made by smashing actual whole Marionberry pies into Tahitian vanilla ice cream. Great base of vanilla flavors here, with the tart, fruity berry working as a delicious accent.


We were able to sneak in an appropriately dessert-y beer, the 2015 Burial Beer Skillet Donut Stout, a breakfast stout made with a blend of nine barley malts, oats, milk sugar, and Counter Culture coffee beans. Really strong, bitter aromas of coffee here, leading to more of the same on the palate, joined by rich flavors of malt and dark chocolate.


Biscuits & Jam/Dreamsicle Sorbet [$2.75]
The Biscuits & Jam was another favorite of mine, thanks to its juicy stone fruit flavors and large, satisfying chunks of buttermilk biscuit. Last up was the Dreamsicle Sorbet, a reasonable approximation of a Creamsicle bar that intermixed tart citrus with an appropriately creamy component.

I wasn't expecting too much coming into LBC, but left quite impressed. The flavors showed off creativity, and taste-wise, things were robust and not shy at all, yet at the same time refined, finessed. As one of my dining companions alluded to, this is probably the closest we're going to get to Sweet Rose this side of the 91.

Leona (Los Angeles, CA)

October 1, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Taco Maria (Costa Mesa, CA) [2]

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Leona Restaurant
123 W Washington Blvd, Venice, CA 90291
310.822.5379
www.leonavenice.com
Fri 08/28/2015, 08:00p-11:35p





The latest Top Chef-related opening comes to us from Season 9 (Texas) alum Nyesha Arrington. For Leona, she's partnered with Kristian Vallas and Breegan Heuer, a husband-and-wife team with considerable experience in the fields of media, tech, and real estate. Named for the original name of Washington Boulevard, the restaurant debuted on July 29th and aims to present the Chef's own interpretation of progressive Californian cuisine.

About the Chef: Arrington was born in Panorama City in 1982 and lived in Gardena until the age of five, when her family moved to Lancaster. She grew up in a multi-ethnic household and was introduced to cooking at an early age by her Korean grandmother Ai-Soon Lee. She had a keen interest in art during her teenage years, and even wanted to become a sculptor, but following graduation from Lancaster High School in 2000, she ended up enrolling at the Art Institute of California in Santa Monica. After finishing culinary school in 2002, Arrington worked simultaneously at Jonathan Beach Club and at Raphael Lunetta's JiRaffe. She later moved to Florida to become a grill cook at Charley's Steak House in Orlando, but quickly returned back to California.

Back home, she started cooking with Josiah Citrin at Melisse, and later helped open Lemon Moon in 2004. After four years with Citrin, Arrington relocated to Las Vegas in April 2007 and worked as a chef de partie at L'Atelier and Joël Robuchon proper, spending a year at each. July 2009 saw the Chef moved back to LA, where she once again hooked up with Citrin and became opening CdC at his more casual eatery Caché Restaurant & Lounge. Caché ended up closing in August 2010, and following the shutter, Arrington took an Exec Chef role at Spice Mill Restaurant in the British Virgin Islands. That October, she also cooked a night at Test Kitchen. She later spent a brief duration in Hawaii consulting, then decided to try her hand at Top Chef, where she was the sixth eliminated (though she did score five victories in Last Chance Kitchen).

Around this time, she also appeared on Food Network's Chef Hunter, which helped land her the Executive Chef position at Wilshire in Santa Monica, replacing Andrew Kirschner. Arrington stayed there until June 2013, and that October, competed on Ilan Hall's Knife Fight, winning a kampachi and lamb neck battle against Chris Kobayashi (she would later return as a guest judge). In January 2014, she started a pop-up dining series entitled "Food Is Art," held at The Farmer's Kitchen in Hollywood. Throughout that year, she sustained herself by cooking private dinners and assisting in restaurant openings, and in August, even put on a one-night-only Korean-inspired dinner at the late Fifty Seven. Last September, Arrington appeared on Top Chef Duels, losing a bout to Jen Carroll, and then became a partner at Leona in November.


Leona occupies the former home of Canali Café, and Marguerite Cafe and Normandie Bakery & Coffee before that. It's a smallish room, anchored by orange leather banquettes with shinier elements thrown in. Counter dining is an option, and there's quite a bit of outdoor seating as well.


Leona's menu reads well, a compact selection of starters-mains-sides that represents a globally-influenced take on Cal Cuisine. Brunch is also an option on the weekends, and apparently there's even a kid's menu. To drink, you get a small array of craft beers and an international list of wines. Click for larger versions.


We got started with a bottle of bubbly, the Salomon Undhof Sekt Ultra Brut Rose NV, Krems, Austria [$55]. Tons of juicy red fruit on the nose here, which continued on to the palate, where it was joined by a counteracting acid and minerality.


Coctel Mixto [$15.00] | Tomato-Watermelon Jus, Crispy Rice Paper
A Latin American-inspired seafood cocktail did a nice job showing off the texture and brine of its various shellfish, offset by the herby sweetness of the broth while a noticeable bit of heat rounded things out. The rice paper, however, wasn't nearly as crisp as I would've liked.


Wakame Cured Hamachi [$18.00] | Dashi, Yuzu
The yellowtail was one of my favorites of the night, the clean, fatty fish enriched by its seaweed treatment. Great acidity in the dashi here as well, and I was a big fan of the textural contrast of the edamame too.


Farm Egg [$15.00] | Smokey Bacon Broth, Thyme
The egg was another standout. I loved the rich, smoky, hearty soup, and how that paired with the soft, slightly runny egg and the crunch of shredded potato. Excellent use of thyme as an accent piece.


Housemade Cheese & Wild Seed Crackers [$11.00] | Market Cress
Seed crackers were spot on, coming out wonderfully crunchy and nutty, a perfect pair to the lushness of the accompanying cheese. Nice zippiness from the greens, too.


Ai-Soon Broccolini [$7.00] | Sesame, Fermented Garlic
This Korean-inflected preparation of broccolini was one of the better versions I've had: delightfully crunchy, with a great depth and spice to it.


Leona doesn't do cocktails unfortunately, so the closest we could get were the mimosas. The Passion Mimosa [$12] conveyed loads of fruit up front, but the finish was well-imbued with the boozy minerality of sparkling wine. On the other hand, the Prickly Pear Mimosa [$12] was much rounder, softer, with a much more pervasive sweetness.


Fish & Chips [$14.00] | Chile de Árbol House Malt Vinegar
Arrington's take on fish 'n' chips was a fun one. The fish itself arrived a touch soggier than I would've preferred, though taste-wise things hit the mark, with a nice herbiness to boot. The vinegar and tartar made for fitting condiments, and I had no complaints about the chips, which were just what I wanted.


Crispy Curry Chickpeas [$6.00] | Madras Curry, Lime
Chickpeas, unfortunately, were a letdown. I wanted to taste more curry, more lime zestiness, but my biggest concern was the texture. I'm definitely a fan of crispy, but these went too far down that road, coming out so hard that I was afraid that they'd crack a tooth.


Flatbread [$14.00] | Heirloom Summer Squash, Lemon Zest, Espelette Pepper
The flatbread was a surprise favorite. Superb crunch on the crust here, and the combination of cheese, herbs, and bright veggie flavors just made sense.


Cauliflower Aligot [$7.00] | Smoked Mozzarella
The aligot featured cauliflower in place of the typical potato, and was as creamy and as cheesy as you'd expect, with a nice char component.


Meatballs de Corazon [$22.00] | Farmers Market Beans, Summer Savory
I'm a big fan of meatballs, but these didn't live up to expectations. Texturally, they were dry, and had a mealy sort of consistency. They did work in terms of taste though: deeply flavored with a touch of spice, and well matched to the accompanying beans.


Next to imbibe was the Broc Cellars "Carbonic" Carignan 13', Alexander Valley, California [$51]. I liked this one. Aromas of deep, luscious red fruit and spice. Taste was more austere, with berry fruit, but also more spice, booze, acidity, and lots of pepper on the finish, which transitioned to anise as the wine warmed.


Lamb Belly Wontons [$24.00] | Bloomsdale Spinach, Crispy Artichokes
I was really looking forward to the wontons, but they fell short. The lamb did indeed have a great depth to it, and the greens did make sense as a foil to its potency. However, the skins were too thick, too hard, and the dish called for more piquancy (like a spicier, or more vinegar-y preparation).


Bulgogi Braised Shortrib [$27.00] | Roasted Bone Marrow, Weiser Farm Potatoes
A bulgogi-inspired short rib came out looking more like galbi jjim. Taste-wise, the meat delivered, with boatloads of savory-sweet notes that worked well alongside the potatoes and greenery. The beef could've stood to be more tender though, and the bone marrow seemed excessive (gimme some radish and carrot instead).


Chicken "Brick" [$24.00] | Slow Roasted Apricots, Sauce Vert
I enjoyed our final savory course, the chicken arriving very flavorful, with crispy skin. It paired perfectly with the bright, pesto-ish sauce on the side, though I did want the bird juicier.


The desserts follow a similar ethos as the savories. Click for a larger version.


Salted Chocolate Lavender Bar [$10.00] | Coffee Cream
This was our favorite of the desserts, showing off a great floral quality that transitioned to the richness of chocolate and caramel. Great crispness on the bar as well.


Adult "Frosted Flakes" [$10.00] | Iced Condensed Milk Broth
Leona's take on Frosted Flakes sounded better than it actually was. It was essentially a rice pudding, and though it did have a sweet spice to it, I wanted that to be more apparent. Texturally, the dish was sort of homogenous as well, so I needed more of those crunchy, flaky bits up top.


Roasted Strawberry Streusel Cake Brown Butter [$12.00] | Chamomile
Last up was the streusel cake, which I also enjoyed. I found it super light, fluffy almost, with a nutty tinge to it that was well-matched to the tanginess of the fruit.

The meal was somewhat uneven. Service got off to a rough start, and as described above, several of the dishes warranted tweaking. I really like the idea behind Leona though--of blending Arrington's classical training with her Korean heritage and a dash of international flair--and it does translate well to many of the dishes, so I do have high hopes that the place will continue to get better and better.

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Taco Maria (Costa Mesa, CA) [2]

October 4, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Ocean Market Grill (Long Beach, CA)

≪ Previous: Leona (Los Angeles, CA)

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Taco María Restaurant
3313 Hyland Ave, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714.538.8444
www.tacomaria.com
Wed 09/02/2015, 08:00p-09:25p



I paid a rare visit to my wine cellar down in Irvine recently, and used the opportunity to revisit Taco Maria, Carlos Salgado's critically-lauded modern Mexican eatery that just passed its two year anniversary. Since my last meal here in December 2013, the place has gotten more and more attention and has won its fair share of awards in the process:

• December 2013: #3 on OC Register's "Top 10 New Restaurants" list (behind Little Sparrow and Arc).
• May 2014: #72 on Jonathan Gold's list of "101 Best Restaurants" in the LA Times (I believe the only other OC entrant was Playground, at #65).
• October 2014: A duo of awards for "Best Restaurant" as well as "Best Mexican Restaurant" in Orange County by OC Weekly.
• December 2014: Orange County "Restaurant of the Year" from the OC Register's Brad A. Johnson.
• March 2015: The top position on OC Register's list of "75 Best Places to Eat."
• March 2015: A spot on Food & Wine's "2015 Best New Chefs" list (alongside Ori Menashe).
• July 2015: Second place on Opinionated About Dining's second annual "FRESH List", behind Sean Brock's Husk. This is a new one for me, but FRESH is a rather unwieldy acronym for Farm-to-Table cuisine; Regional American cuisine; Ethnic cuisine; Sustainable ingredients; served with American-style Hospitality. To get an idea of what that's all about, other restaurants in the top 25 include Le Pigeon, Rose's Luxury, Bestia, Pok Pok, Son of a Gun, Ad Hoc, and Animal.

The menu format remains a four-course prix fixe, though the price is now $65 plus $29 for wine pairing, up significantly from $46 and $24 last time. Other changes: in addition to lunch, the à la carte menu is available on Tuesday evenings, and brunch is also an option; I've heard as well that Roland Rubalcava has been promoted to CdC. To drink: a small wine list, a few beers, low-proof cocktails, and a smattering of non-alcoholic bebidas. Click for larger versions.


The meal began as always with an amuse cocktail, and tonight's featured prosecco, lemon, citrus syrup, and a grape garnish. It worked wonders as an apéritif, coming out super refreshing and effervescent, yet with a surprisingly complex flavor profile that balanced sweet, sour, and even a bit of savory.


Next were three little amuses to accompany the drink. I began with the pickled radishes, which were delightfully crunchy, tangy-sweet little bites. The suzuki was even better, with the clean flavor of the Japanese sea bass melding beautifully with the umami-rich nori "tostada," the whole thing accented by a smidge of heat on the finish. Last up was a panko-crusted pork trotter with queso fundido, another doozy of a bite that blended the super savory nature of the meat with the richness of the cheese, all while the herbs up top imparted a lightness to it all.


1a: CAMPECHANA | geoduck, octopus, spot prawns, uni, cherry tomato, avocado
2013 Eola Hills, Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Salgado's take on campechana stood out as a first course, a super bright presentation that highlighted the tastes and textures of each individual item of seafood. The back-and-forth between the acidity in the dish and the olive oil was absolutely key, and I was a big fan of the avocado as well. Great use of a tingling, lingering spice on the back end, too.


1b: SOPE de CALABACITAS | summer squash tart, ricotta, basil
2014 Rimapere, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
Next we had pretty much the most artfully-presented sope ever. It delivered on the taste front too, the dish's hearty base of masa playing off the sweetness of the veggies in prime fashion while the basil imparted a necessary lightness. Great bit of heat as well here on the close.


2a: CALAMARES en RECADO NEGRO | local squid, olive oil potatoes, chile ash, purslane
2002 C.H. Berres, Riesling, Kabinett, Mosel, Germany
I believe that this was my first encounter with chilmole, a sort of sauce made with charred chilies and spices. It was the star of the show, imbuing the tender, snappy squid with a depth of savory, smoky, sweet flavors while the potatoes worked to temper the interaction. Excellent zippiness from the purslane to boot.


2b: ARROZ con CANGREJO | Carolina gold rice, dungeness crab, green chile, chicken skin
2013 Le Grand Calliou, Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France
The rice was even better, teeming with the sweet, satisfying brine of the crab. I would have no problem eating just that porridge alone, but the herbiness, the citrusy notes made it all the better, as did the crunchy and deeply savory chicken skin. Yep, I wanted a bigger bowl of the stuff.


3a: CHOCHOYOTES | shelling beans, masa dumplings, grilled cabbage, cueritos
2012 Eola Hills Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon
Another standout was this homey yet finessed preparation, one that paired a base of hearty, smoky beans against the sheer heft of chochoyote dumplings, the combination dutifully moderated by the veggies present.


3b: MERO con TOMATILLO | Baja halibut, cucumber, green melon, tomatillo, avocado
2014 Lioco, Chardonnay, Sonoma County, California
Compared to the in-your-face flavors of the preceding course, the halibut was all about subtlety, the firm, flaky, delicate fish complemented, but not dominated by contrasting notes of tart tomatillo and sweet melon.


4a: CHILE VERDE de CONEJO | rabbit, roasted tomatillo, sweet corn, padron peppers
2012 Masi Tupungato, Malbec-Corrina, Mendoza, Argentina
Rabbit made for a cozy sort of dish, the meat well-matched to the zestiness of chile verde. I appreciated the sweetness of the corn here as well, not to mention the slight heat from the peppers. My only concern was that one of the pieces of conejo was on the tougher side.


4b: CARNE ASADA | ribeye cap, onion cream, quelites, eggplant
2012 Seven Falls, Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope, Washington
The Chef's take on carne asada was definitely a huge step up from what you typically encounter, the rib eye arriving gorgeously beefy, with a superb smokiness that linked up with the onion and eggplant elements on the plate.


Sadly, there's still no dessert served at Taco Maria (and remember, Salgado was a pastry chef before this). Instead, we received an atole featuring blue corn masa and roasted strawberry jam, a thick, viscous potage that balanced the sweetness of the fruit against the drink's strong base of corn.

Tonight's meal was even stronger than my last, and it was great to be able to see how Salgado's cooking has evolved, becoming even more robust, even more refined. It's this balance of familiarity and modernism that makes Taco Maria one of the most important Mexican restaurants in the state, and one of the top in the country I'm sure. I'm excited to see where the Chef takes things from here.

Ocean Market Grill (Long Beach, CA)

October 6, 2015, 7:25 pm

≫ Next: Dudley Market (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Taco Maria (Costa Mesa, CA) [2]

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Ocean Market Grill Restaurant
6332 Pacific Coast Hwy, Long Beach, CA 90803
562.472.6151
www.oceanmarketgrill.com
Tue 09/08/2015, 07:25p-09:40p





Yep, Ocean Market Grill has to be one of the more random meals I've had in recent times. I will say that I wasn't a fan of the super generic name, which I can only assume was chosen because it can be acronymized to "OMG." Opened at the end of April last year, the restaurant is of the fast-casual fish grill genre, and there was pretty much no reason for us to come here except that (1) we were in the area and, more importantly, (2) we'd heard that they were BYOB-friendly.


OMG occupies the former home of Greek eatery Chicken Dijon. Inside, things were nicer than anticipated, casual sure, but also surprisingly chic. There's an appealing patio seating area out front too.


As for the menu, expect a wide selection of wild and sustainably-farmed seafood items in a multitude of formats, all with oddly specific prices. To drink? Not much, fountain sodas basically, hence the BYO-ing (I did notice beer and wine advertised on a menu, but I'm assuming they haven't implemented alcohol yet). Click for larger versions.


We got started quickly with the beer, bringing out the newly-released 2015 The Bruery Terreux Gypsy Tart. It's the brewery's take on a Flanders brown ale, and thus conveyed lotsa malt 'n' dark fruit, with some oak in there and just enough tartness toward the end to keep it from becoming too heavy.


Breaded Shrimp Taco [$3.97] | cabbage + crema + tomatillo + amazu + corn tortilla
We made sure to try all four taco types, naturally. The shrimp variant was pretty textbook, but worked well enough, with the crunch from the cabbage and contrasting notes from the cream and tomatillo making sense. I would've liked a thinner batter on the actual shrimp though.


Poke [$7.40]
Poke's all the rage these days it seems, so we weren't surprised to see Ocean Market's take on it. It was a solid offering, the cubes of tuna coming out firm, clean, and well-matched to all the sweet, tangy, nutty nuances present. Nice textural play provided by the tortilla chips, too.


Grilled Tuna [$11.00] | blackened
Tuna was lightly seared, coming out cool to the touch, with the fish complemented, but not dominated by its crust of Cajun-y spices.


Our sole India pale ale was the 2015 Smog City Steamfunk Brett IPA, and it was an unconventional one, fermented with Brettanomyces and dry-hopped with experimental hops. At first, I tasted the tropical, citrusy notes you'd expect, but this was backed by a bevy of earthy, barnyard flavors from the Brett that made this one of the more intriguing IPAs I've had.


Fries [$2.47]
Fries reminded me of Jack in the Box's (not a bad thing mind you).


Grilled Mahi Mahi Taco [$4.92] | mixed green + watermelon pico de gallo + cilantro aioli + corn tortilla
Mahi made for a nice taco: lean and slightly firm to the bite, with a good char and slight sweetness, the veggies up top providing brightness and acid.


Calamari (Fried) [$5.61] | w/ sweet chili sauce
The fried calamari was about par for the course, with the accompanying sauce imparting a welcomed zippiness to the squid. As always, I tended to prefer the tentacles.


Next to drink was the 2015 Modern Times Fruitlands, a sour cherry gose. I was a fan of this one, finding its tart fruit and citric flavors a great pairing to the beer's salty backbone.


Grilled Yellowtail [$8.97] | salt + pepper
Yellowtail was nicely textured and quite briny, but not in an off-putting way. The S+P was key here in providing a semblance of balance.


2pc Fish Battered [$5.32] | w/ tartar sauce
Here we had what basically amount to the "fish" part of fish and chips. Prepared with wild cod this evening, the dish met expectations: moist, flaky, and lean, with a nice crispness from the batter.


Clam Chowder [$3.95]
The chowder was better than anticipated: as creamy and cozy as you'd want, loaded with hearty chunks of potato and spongy shards of clam. A little reminiscent of Campbell's, but better.


The 2015 Council Blueberry Beatitude was another sour, a blueberry-infused tart saison. I found it a lightweight, refreshing, gluggable beer, sour and slightly barnyard-y, with a base of subtle berry flavor.


Garlic Rice [$1.92]
The rice was far, far too overcooked, arriving almost pasty in consistency, without enough of the advertised garlic character.


Asian Salad [$5.00] | cabbage + romaine + green onion + wonton + almond + sesame + honey vinaigrette
The requisite "Asian" salad hit the mark for the most part, a mix of crunchy greens bound together by notes of nutty sesame and a sweet-n-sour dressing.


Grilled Barramundi [$10.57] | blackened
Barramundi was firm, flaky, mild to the taste, the blackening spices giving a much needed jolt of flavor to the fish.


The 2015 Almanac Farmers Reserve Citrus was the first of two beers from the brewery, a sour blonde with Buddha's hand citron, yuzu, and blood orange, aged in wine barrels. It was lovely, smelling of aromatic, juicy, zesty citrus fruit and tasting much the same, with a bit of funkiness backing everything up.


Grilled Swai Taco [$3.87] | mixed green + watermelon pico de gallo + cilantro aioli + corn tortilla
Here, the fish conveyed a sweet but sort of blunt flavor profile, so the brightness of the greenery was absolutely crucial.


Seasonal Vegetable [$3.01]
Brussels comprised the seasonal veggie this evening, a surprisingly good rendition that really showed off the bitterness, char, and texture of the sprouts.


I wasn't feeling the Mikkeller SpontanSeabuckthorn, a lambic style beer brewed, as the name would imply, with sea buckthorn. It was sour, sure, but also had an astringent quality to it that I found perturbing. Do not want.


Grilled Rockfish [$9.78] | salt + pepper
Rockfish was on the nondescript side. Not too much to say here.


Breaded Tilapia Taco [$3.87] | cabbage + crema + tomatillo + amazu + corn tortilla
The fried tilapia made for a classic, though not particularly memorable fish taco experience.


A single-hop, dry-hopped sour blonde aged in wine barrels, the 2015 Almanac Citra Sour delivered, its juicy, citrusy, bitter hop character melding well with the inherent tartness in the beer.


Shrimp (Fried) [$5.67] | w/ tailcock sauce
Fried shrimp were the same ones used in the taco above I imagine. Pretty good with a dab of the horseradish-y cocktail sauce.


There was no dessert here, so we made do with some delightful homemade blackberry and nectarine cobblers, each served in its own miniature Le Creuset cocotte.


Our final beer was the heftiest of the bunch, the Vietnamese-inspired 2015 Perrin No Rules, an imperial porter aged in oak bourbon barrels with coconut and turbinado sugar. It made for an appropriate conclusion to the meal, a massive, viscous brew with a huge nose of chocolate, malt, and vanilla. On the palate, I got loads of sugary sweetness up front, leading to roasty coconut and an undercurrent of boozy barrel character. Really damn good.

We had a fun time at Ocean Market Grill, though a lot of that may have been due to the booze. In terms of food, the cooking here delivers what one would expect for a fast-casual sort of place--not superb, but decent, and I definitely appreciated the sheer variety of seafood available too.

Dudley Market (Los Angeles, CA)

October 7, 2015, 8:15 pm

≫ Next: Kabab Crush (Artesia, CA)

≪ Previous: Ocean Market Grill (Long Beach, CA)

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Dudley Market Restaurant
9 Dudley Ave, Venice, CA 90291
424.744.8060
www.dudleymarket.com
Thu 09/03/2015, 08:15p-11:05p





The last time we checked in with Jesse Barber (two years ago), he was helming the stoves over at Barnyard. Things seemed to be going well there, but he left the Venice restaurant--quite acrimoniously it seemed--in early March, eventually replaced by one Larry Monaco (who himself was booted in mid-June). Barber announced his plans for Dudley Market in April, and at the end of that month, held a one-night-only ramen pop-up at Japanese Knife Imports in Beverly Hills, which was followed by a further five days of popping up at a Venice residence in June.

Dudley Market, thus, ended up soft-opening at the end of July, and aims to be an everyday-ish, neighborhood-y, all-day type eatery, replete with a fancy retail component guided by the Chef's wife, Celia. Barber's partner here is General Manager Conner Mitchell, a Malibu native who spent time at Barnyard, Farmshop, Bedford & Burns, and Sadie, and also created a pop-up series entitled Folly and the Mistress.


The restaurant occupies the former home of Henry's Market, a 1922-era building situated right next door to the newly-shuttered Piccolo. The 1,463-square-foot space is as rustic as you'd expect with its exposed brick and beam, and seats roughly two dozen, with an additional six spots at the bar. One wall, meanwhile, is dedicated to the retail part of the operation, and there's a selection of grab-n-go food as well.


Dudley Market's dinner menu offers up a familiar cadence of snacks, starters, mains, and desserts, and of course there are separate breakfast, brunch, and lunch menus in addition. To drink, you get a coffee program from Portland's Heart Roasters, a few beers, and a West Coast-centric wine list with an organic-slash-sustainable focus, obvs. Click for larger versions.


Gnocco Fritto, Apricot Lane House Cured Guanciale [$7.00]
We began with fried pastry shells, hollow, somewhat grain-y examples tarted up by the tomato sauce while guanciale added a much-needed blast of salt.


Crudo of Daily Changing Fish [$18.00]
Tonight's crudo featured lightly-blanched geoduck with a citrus-herb salad and crème fraîche. I found it rather lovely, the snappy slices of clam playing well alongside the bright, juicy, acidic flavors here while the crème fraîche imparted an enveloping lushness.


To drink, we started with some pétillant naturel, the Los Pilares, Cabernet Sauvignon Pet-Nat, San Diego '14 [$48]. I really enjoyed this one, which perhaps isn't surprising given that it's probably the most beer-like wine that I'd ever tasted. Think tart initially, backed by a fruit sweetness, the entire experience underpinned by a wonderfully funky, barnyard quality. I found it quite reminiscent of a sour cherry ale.


Beer Battered Soft Shell Crab, Tomatoes, Avocado, Frisee [$14.00]
Soft shell crab came out super briny, its potency balanced by the various greenery on the plate. However, I really would've liked this crispier in terms of the batter.


Roasted Green Beans, Sliced Salumi [$4.00]
Green beans were imbued with a bit of heat, and matched well with the salty spice of the sausage.


Lodge Bakery Bread, White Anchovy, Salsa Verde [$8.00]
Great interaction here between the in-your-face salinity of the anchovy and zippy salsa verde, all over a base of super buttery bread.


Feta, Nori Chermoula [$4.00]
Here, the lushness of the cheese worked surprisingly well with the nori condiment, and the piquancy of the Lucques olives was appreciated as well.


With the wine all drunk up, we went for both of the beers that the restaurant had on tap. On the left was the Fruh Kolsch [$7], a lightweight brew that I found grain-y at first, with a delicate malt sweetness, a touch of grass, a bit of spice, and very little bitterness. The EvilTwin Ryan & The Beaster Bunny [$9], on the other hand, made for a nice saison: refreshing, with a noticeable fruitiness cut by notes of yeast, spice, and hops.


Blistered Okra, Pickles [$4.00]
The okra was one of the better preparations I've had--not too mucilaginous, with a great roasty char. Smart use of the pickles here as a complement I have to say.


Orecchiette, Pomodoro, Parmesan [$16.00]
Orecchiette came out quite firm to the bite (too much so for some), while taste-wise it went classic, with the tart tomato sauce working itself out with the weightiness of the Parm.


Arugula, Peaches, Pecorino, Black Pepper [$13.00]
The peach salad was an unexpected hit, the super juicy, sweet fruit really meshing well with the zesty arugula while the cheese gave up a nice dash of salt.


Gnocchi, Gravlax, Tarragon, Breadcrumbs, Nasturtium [$15.00]
Gnocchi were tasty, softly-textured but with a bit of a crunch from the breadcrumbs. I found them smartly matched to the smoky salmon, and I was a big fan of the tangy capers here as well.


A carafe of the Broc Cellars, Vinestar, Zinfandel, Sonoma County '13 [$33] worked as our second wine. I enjoyed this one: perfume-y and floral to the smell, with rich berry fruit; taste followed with more deep fruit, a bit of pepper, and nice acidity.


Fries [$4.00]
The fries had a great texture to 'em, and went particularly well with the tangy ketchup on the side.


Pork Chop, Flageolet Beans, Okra, Mustard and Plum Vin [$32.00]
Our most substantial course of the night, the pork chop hit the mark as one of the better versions I've had in recent memory. The meat came out tender, juicy, and full of flavor, with a great herby bent to it. I didn't mind a reappearance from the okra either.


Polenta, Parmesan [$4.00]
The polenta was grittier, rougher than I'd prefer, with a slight sweetness to it. I would've liked it creamier, smoother, with a stronger cheese presence.


PEI Mussels, Serrano Chile Sofrito, Lamb Sausage [$18.00]
Our final savory was the night's special. It was a strong preparation of mussels, with the clams arriving well-cooked and well-textured, the sofrito imparting a touch of herbaceousness to the mix along with notes from what I believe were thyme and black garlic. My favorite thing here was the lamb sausage though, which lent a mouthwatering savoriness to the dish.


To go with dessert, we ordered up a bottle of Cold Brew [$5], which I found a bit more acidic than expected.


Raspberry Semifreddo, Cookie Dust [$7.00]
A semifreddo arrived looking like some sort of pâte, though it certainly didn't taste like one with its tart berry flavors, cut by the presence of the "dust."


Peach Shortcake [$7.00]
The peach shortcake worked it out, the buttery biscuit making sense alongside the whipped cream while the juicy, sweet fruit functioned as the centerpiece of the dessert.


Gateau au Chocolat, Vanilla Ice Cream [$7.00]
Last up: a rich, dense, classically-leaning chocolate cake with an effective, though expected pairing of ice cream.

Dudley Market actually turned out better than we'd expected, and represents a welcomed evolution of the Chef's cooking at Barnyard: straightforward, seasonal dishes imbued with a sense of what the restaurant calls "everyday luxury." It's a worthy addition to the area certainly.

Kabab Crush (Artesia, CA)

October 10, 2015, 8:25 pm

≫ Next: Gwang Yang (Los Angeles, CA)

≪ Previous: Dudley Market (Los Angeles, CA)

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Kebab Crush Restaurant
18300 Gridley Rd, Artesia, CA 90701
562.860.4777
www.kababcrush.com
Sun 09/13/2015, 08:25p-10:05p





Driven by a need for a dog-friendly place near the 90703, we were led to Kabab Crush, a new-ish Middle Eastern-slash-Mediterranean joint located across the street from Los Cerritos Center. The restaurant opened back in July 2014, and is a family-run affair, with mom, dad, and son all working behind the counter.


Order where the sign tells you to, and your food will be brought out, Carl's Jr-style. Inside seating is clean 'n' bright, but we opted for a table on the patio.


The menu's par for the course given the concept, with most all your Levantine favorites represented in Papyrus font glory. Click for larger versions.


Beer's a fitting pair to the food here, so up first came the 2015 Crooked Stave Tart Cherry Petite Sour. I wasn't too impressed with this one, finding it thin, acidic, with a slight oak presence and not much fruit. Forgettable unfortunately.


Large Combo Plate [$17.99] | Shrimp, Beef, Chicken
We opted for a large combination plate in order to try a variety of meats, and weren't let down. I first sampled the shrimp, which came out properly cooked and not overdone as they often tend to be--lovely snap, char, and brine to 'em as well. The beef was also a pleasant surprise, again, not overcooked, and still tender, with a lovely pepperiness. Similarly, the chicken arrived with a good smoke to it, properly juicy and flavorful. Superb rice as well. A strong way to start.


Mediterranean Potato Salad | Boiled potato with olive oil, lemon juice, parsley and house spices
Mutabal - Baba Ghanouj | Grilled eggplants mixed with tahini, lemon juice, parsley and a touch of yogurt
The combo came with a choice of two sides. Given my penchant for potato salad, I had to try it here, and found it mild, with a subtle herbiness and tartness. I would've like a firmer, more substantial consistency. The mutabbal, meanwhile, was quite nice, with a great smokiness and weight from the olive oil.


Prototypical pita, fluffy and fresh.


Next to drink was the 2014 New Glarus Thumbprint Cran-Bic, a lambic-inspired beer aged in oak for five months with cranberries. Think tart and somewhat acidic at first, but with a lingering fruitiness sneaking up on you. Surprisingly sweet, actually.


Chicken Shawerma Pita Pocket [$5.99]
We also made to try one of the pita wraps, this particularly one featuring chicken shawarma. What I found interesting was that the bird almost had a curry-like spicing to it, which was evened out by the generous amounts of creamy garlic sauce as well as the brightness and crunch of the tomatoes, cucumbers, and pickles present.


Turshi [$3.99] | Mixed pickles and olives
A variety of torshi to offset the potent flavors at play.


Keeping with the sour beer theme, here was the 2015 Tahoe Mountain Viejo Rojo, a wild ale aged for two years in French Cabernet casks with cherries and blueberries. I found it very tart, almost acerbic, but with the fruit peeking through quite well, the back end showing more malt and barrel character.


Grilled Chicken [$11.99] | Half
The grilled chicken, unfortunately, didn't quite hit the lofty levels achieved by the previous meats. There was too much charring going on, which imparted bitterness, and I found the breast drier than I would've liked, though the leg was better in that regard.


Tabouleh | A mix of cracked wheat, tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley, lemon juice and house spices
Cucumber Yogurt | Chopped cucumbers mixed with fresh mint, house spices and a touch of garlic
Again, two sides accompanied the protein. Tabbouleh was just as you'd want, all bright and acidic with the parsley really shining. The restaurant's take on cacik hit the mark as well, a cool, creamy preparation that was all about its tangy, herby notes.


Our final beer brought out the Mikkeller Beer Geek Dessert, an imperial oatmeal stout with cocoa and vanilla. It was a decent dessert-y type ale, malt- and coffee-forward, with a strong chocolate character, bitterness, and touch of sweetness from the vanilla.


Falafel [$1.75] | 3 pieces of lightly fried combination of mashed chickpeas, vegetables and house spices
Falafels were delightfully crunchy, smartly spiced, and well-matched to the tahini on the side.


Pistachio Baklava [$1.50]
Some nutty-sweet pistachio and walnut baklava to close.

Kabab Crush was no doubt one of my more random, impromptu meals as of late, but we all left pretty impressed with the restaurant, mostly due to the quality of the skewers (which I guess makes sense given the name of the place). I could see this becoming one of my go-to spots when I'm in need of a tasty, quick-n-easy take-out meal.

Gwang Yang (Los Angeles, CA)

October 11, 2015, 6:00 pm

≫ Next: Lobsta Shack (Los Angeles, CA)

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Gwang Yang Korean BBQ Restaurant
3435 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90010
213.385.5600
www.gybbq.com
Sat 09/12/2015, 06:00p-08:20p





One of the newest entrants to LA's high-end KBBQ game debuted last August. Housed in a low-slung structure in the shadow of the Equitable Life Building, Gwang Yang is named after its eponymous locale in Korea and represents the second location of a family-owned restaurant in Seoul. The signature dish here is the bulgogi, ostensibly inspired by a style of preparation originating in Gwangyang city, one incorporating black oak charcoal (though gas is used here). It's available in two styles: a sweeter "LA-style" and a more subtle, beef-focused "Gangnam-style."


Gwang Yang takes over the old home of So Hyang, a stone's throw from EMC and close to Koreatown heavyweights POT, Le Comptoir, and Kang Hodong Baekjeong. The place has gone through a pricey renovation, and is no doubt one of the swankiest KBBQ joints I've been to (probably the swankiest, actually), replete with a complement of private rooms (one of which we occupied).


As for the menu, you get a welcomingly compact selection of pricey, prime cuts, plus a variety of other Korean staples including some pretty substantial soups and stews. Note also the lack of combos. To drink, find your typical Korean beverages (beer, soju, makgeolli, bokbunja), a small New World wine list that's exactly what you'd expect from a place like this, and a smattering of Scotch by the bottle (topped by Blue Label, natch). Corkage is advertised at $20 a pop for wine (we were only charged for one of our five bottles though), and $30 for whiskey. Click for larger versions.


We had a mix of beer and wine tonight, so I commenced with sort of a blend of the two, the 2015 The Bruery Terreux Confession, a collaborative brew with Fess Parker comprising a sour blonde ale blended and fermented with Riesling grapes. I found this quite lovely, tart and acidic and a bit earthy at first, with the dry, floral, vinous notes from the fruit coming in later and lingering.


The requisite condiments quickly made their way to our table.


Then came the flurry of banchan, starting with this cool, tangy, watery mul kimchi.


Good ol'baechu kimchi was crunchy and seemed a bit funkier than usual.


Next, a bright, herby combination of yangpa (onion) and gosu (cilantro).


The NV Le Vigne di Alice Osé Vino Spumante Brut Rosato was a delightful sparkling wine constructed from 100% Marzemino. I found it a perfect summer quaffer, with tons of sweet, floral strawberry on the nose, and plenty more on the palate, the sugariness of the fruit always present, but not overwhelming thanks to a countering puckeriness.


I believe we had here uguji bokkeum, or radish stems, bracing 'n' bitter.


This was tofu if I recall, a somewhat firmly textured example with a nice soy-enhanced richness.


Japchae was tasty, as slick as you'd expect with a good pepperiness to the noodles.


Not too much to say about the salad.


Moving on to something heavier now, here was the 2015 The Bruery Arbre Light Toast, an imperial stout aged in oak barrels. The bottle's part of a series exploring the effect that various levels of barrel charring have on the beer aged within. This was the lightest variation, and was actually much more delicious than I'd anticipated. Lovely aromas of vanilla and chocolate, leading to a palate of rich, balanced malt with a persistent woodiness to it.


Some crunchy, spicy soybean sprouts (kongnamul) topped with shreds of green onion (pa).



Gwang Yang Bulgogi - Gangnam Style [$33.99] | Lightly Marinated Bulgogi
Naturally, we had to start with Gwang Yang's signature dish, and it didn't disappoint as probably the best bulgogi I've had. The beef was tender sure, but also had a sweetness that pervaded, but never overshadowed the meat, and paired beautifully with the light charring. Certainly a bit of a redemption for the oft maligned cut.


The gyeran jjim was a winner, all fluffy and light, with a great herbiness and salt to it.


Pa Jeon [$19.99] | Assorted Seafood & Vege Pancake
I also enjoyed the haemul pajeon, a preparation that really showed off the back and forth between the brine of the seafood and the bite of green onion.


Next up: another sparkling wine in the form of the NV Domaine Collin Crémant de Limoux Cuvée Tradition Brut. I found this gluggable as well, with a base of sweet, light, refreshing fruit offset by just a touch of toastiness to make it more interesting.



Prime Ggotsal [$35.99] | Top Prime Chuck Flap
One of my go-to cuts, the kkotsal delivered. It actually had a bit more chew than I'm accustomed to, but was also richer, more flavorful than usual. Superb when taken with the included veggies.


Sangchu [$2.00] | Lettuce
We requested some romaine lettuce to pair with the pork below.



Buljip Saeng Samgyeopsal [$25.99] | Samgyeopsal-Sliced of Kuro Pork Belly
Samgyeopsal is always a must-try for us, and Gwang Yang's was definitely one of the thickest versions we've encountered. It tasted super concentrated, with a great char to the meat and a good ratio between lean and fat.


Our final tipple was the 2015 Green Flash Natura Morta Plum, a Brett-fermented saison aged six months in red wine barrels with Italian plum purée. I liked it, finding the beer softly tart, dry, with a pleasant acidity and subtle floral notes from the fruit.


A new panchan makes an appearance: broccoli with a gochujang-esque condiment.



Woo Seol [$25.99] | Beef Tongue
We closed out with another one of my standbys. Tongue was a touch tougher than I'd prefer, but made up for that with its immense depth of flavor. Even better with a dab of sesame oil.


Since dessert really isn't served here, we BYOT'd with our own tteok (glutinous rice cakes).

We left pretty pleased with the place. The quality of the meat was up there, and the various banchan and other dishes all hit the mark as well. Combined with the above-average service (headed by GM Isaac Kim) and slick surroundings, Gwang Yang looks to fit right in with all the upper echelon KBBQ joints around town.

Lobsta Shack (Los Angeles, CA)

October 14, 2015, 2:30 pm

≫ Next: Ashland Hill (Santa Monica, CA)

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Lobsta Shack Restaurant
701 W Cesar E Chavez Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90012
323.999.1797
www.lobstashack.com
Sat 09/12/2015, 02:30p-05:25p





The September heat wave made a planned outing to GCM's La Tostaderia unbearable, so instead we headed over to Chinatown to check out the new-ish Lobsta Shack, the B&M outpost of the Lobsta Truck. The restaurant is the brainchild of South Pasadena native Justin Mi, a 2004 UC Berkeley grad who previously worked in seafood distribution. After a life-changing Maine lobster roll tour in 2010 with brother Winston, he decided to re-introduce LA to the East Coast staple and debuted the first Lobsta Truck in December that year. Another truck soon followed, and in February 2014, he expanded to the Bay Area, then dropped Lobsta Shack last November, with CSCA grad Jose Monterrosa (JW Marriott/Ritz Carlton, Westin Bonaventure, Whole Foods Market, Crepe Vine Bistro) at the helm.


Inside, things are apropos given the concept, sort of a gussied up version of a New England seafood shack.


As for the Lobsta Shack menu, it's actually quite large (much, much larger than what's available on the trucks), with all your East Coast-y seafood favorites as well as a few more unexpected appearances. Click for a larger version.


Clam Chowder [$8.00]
I like a good clam chowder, and Lobsta Shack's made a reasonable showing for itself, with a particularly strong celery-esque slant to go against the saltiness of the clams. Potatoes added heft to the soup, though I would've liked larger pieces for a heartier consistency.


Lobster Roll (butter) [$20.00]
Naturally, we had to sample the restaurant's signature item. It was tasty indeed, with the sweet, well-textured lobster enriched by just enough butter while the sugariness of the New England-imported split-top roll formed a fine complement. I also enjoyed the fries, which arrived thin, crisp, and imbued with a smidge of truffle-y musk.


Given the extremely limited beverage selection here, we BYOB'd it, beginning with the 2012 Goose Island Madame Rose, a sour brown ale with Michigan cherries aged in French Cabernet Sauvignon barrels for over two years with Belgian Brettanomyces. Despite its age, the beer still tasted quite youthful, tart of course, with a palpable cherry presence over a base of dark malt and oak. Delish.


Fried Calamari [$8.00]
The calamari was a bit of letdown. I found the squid thin and rubbery, tough to the bite and over-fried.


Po Boy Roll [$10.00]
I liked the po' boy, which did a good job conveying the brine on the shrimp. A welcomed crunch and lightness from the veggies too, with the sandwich's creamy dressing bringing it all together.


Next up was the 2015 Beachwood Hop Kong Fooey, a West Coast style IPA hopped with Simcoe and Equinox that was released earlier in the day to celebrate Long Beach's Dogs of Downtown event. I found this super piney, super aromatic on the nose, and the taste followed, a bracing, bitter, hoppy palate that was as "bite-y" as they come.


Lobster Mac [$8.00]
The lobster mac & cheese definitely showed off the ocean-y character of the crustacean, offset by the lushness of all that cheese.


One of my dining companions had just returned from Portland, so we opened up some bottles that he'd brought back. First was the Double Mountain Pêche Mode, a Brett-infused Belgian ale aged with peaches. I found this expectedly tart, funky, with a nice peachiness to it, though it clearly was a notch below stone fruit stalwarts such as Fou' Foune.


Andouille Roll [$9.00]
The andouille was a real pleasant surprise, a snappy, juicy, savory, spicy sausage that I just wanted to keep eating.


House Salad (entrée) [$9.00]
The requisite salad. Not much to say here.


Another Portland purchase was the Rogue Big Ass Barrel Braggot, a sort of mead made with both honey and malted barley. It was very sweet actually, and unabashedly malt-forward, but also rather thin, and lacking in complexity. Meh.


Corn [$2.00]
Corn was well-cooked and well-textured, though somewhat bland.


I brought out the 2015 Wicked Weed Canvas Series: La Bonte Pear, a Brett-fermented saison blended with a blonde sour and one pound per gallon of French pears. This was my favorite of the afternoon, an utterly bright, refreshing beer with a great base of farmhouse funk and wispy, overarching notes of pear.


Crab Louie [$13.00]
The Louie salad, unfortunately, didn't quite hit the mark. The issue I had was that the actual crab tasted muddy, which marred the experience for me. I would've liked more acidity in the dish as well.


Corn Bread [$3.00]
Cornbread was tasty, a gritty preparation that did a good job conveying a balance of sweetness and char.


Another highlight was the 2015 Modern Times Fortunate Islands with Grapefruit Zest, a pale wheat ale with grapefruit added. It was perfect quaffer given the hot weather, with a light body, persistent hoppiness, and plenty of juicy citrus notes throughout.


Mac & Cheese [$6.00]
The regular macaroni and cheese was about what you'd expect, save for the use of orecchiette in place of actual mac.


Getting back to Oregon, here we had the 2014 Double Mountain Tahoma Kriek, a strong Belgian blond with Rainier cherries. Think sour and funky, with a great effervescence to it, though I would've liked a touch more cherry character.


Fish and Chips [$11.00]
Fish 'n' chips was a surprise hit for me, the fish coming out crisp, yet fluffy on the inside, with a lovely bit of pepperiness to it all.


Lobster Bisque [$12.00]
The bisque was a balanced preparation, very creamy actually, with an absolutely permeating lobster presence.


Our second mead was the Golden Coast California Oak, made with California wildflower honey and aged in American oak. This was interesting, honeyed and boozy sure, but with an almost sake-like rice-y sweetness to it that intrigued me.


Lobster Grilled Cheese [$20.00]
The grilled cheese was a must for us, and this was a cozy example of such, coming out very cheesy, but with the lobster still standing out as the star.


Someone at the table brought out two beers from Mexico, which we closed with. The first was the Insurgente La Lupulosa, an IPA brewed with five types of hops. This went quite malty and fruity in the aroma, while the taste read pine-y, dank, with a backing of malt and a bitter finish.


Fried Broccoli [$6.00]
Broccoli wasn't as I'd hoped for. The florets weren't fried enough, and didn't seem particularly seasoned. The provided sauce was absolutely key, thus.


Whole Shrimp - Cajun (boiled) [$9.00]
Boiled shrimp delivered, arriving well cooked, delicate, but with a forceful Cajun-y spicing that definitely took things up a notch.


Last to drink was the Wendlandt Hann Zomer Saison. With this one, I got lots of dark fruit on the nose, while taste-wise, there was more fruit, some funk, a touch of spice, and a dank sort of lingering finish.



Lobster - Ginger Scallion (stir fry) [$18.00/lb]
We picked the feistiest of the live lobsters (a roughly 1.4lb specimen) for the meal's pièce de résistance. This was one of the best items for sure, the meat coming out tender, yet with snap, the sweetness of the lobster matched to the ginger-y tang of the dish. Yum.

We had a fun time at Lobsta Shack, and though there were certainly some standouts, not every item was a hit. Not having had the truck before, I don't have a basis for comparison necessarily, but perhaps some editing down of the menu is called for in order to better focus the kitchen. In any case, not a bad addition to Chinatown.

Ashland Hill (Santa Monica, CA)

October 16, 2015, 9:30 pm

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Ashland Hill Restaurant
2807 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.392.3300
www.ashlandhill.com
Fri 09/18/2015, 09:30p-11:40p





Soft opened on January 30th, Ocean Park's Ashland Hill comes to us courtesy of Fork n' Awesome Hospitality Group (the guys behind Ox & Son) and co-owner Luke Tabit. Helmed by FNA chef Brad Miller, AH aims to be a modern beer garden of sorts, one that we've wanted to try for a few months now: we'd actually wandered over after a meal at Scopa Italian Roots, but were told that the place had already closed for the evening.


Ashland Hill takes over the old Wildflour Pizza space, which has been transformed into a casual beer-slash-wine garten setup, with a cozy tap room up front and a great patio out back.


Tabit's in charge of the beverage program, and in terms of beer, he's got 16 taps (mostly local) and a handful of bottles, though nothing too interesting unfortunately. Wine-wise, things tend more toward international, with a dozen or so wines by the glass/bottle, and a few more on draft. As for the food menu, think seasonal-ish bar bites alongside more substantial dishes. Brunch is also an option. Click for larger versions.


We got started with a couple beers off the tap list. On the left was the Three Weavers - Hounslow Porter [$8], sort of a prototypical, dry-ish porter with classic flavors of pronounced chocolate and malt throughout, joined by a slight bitterness--nothing special. Meanwhile, the Santa Monica Brew Works - Witbier [$7] was definitely not your prototypical witbier. I found it grainy, malty even, with a dankness that I didn't enjoy, along with a smoky character toward the back end. It lacked the crispness, citrus, and spice that you're supposed to have in a wit. Not a fan, nor should you be.


Housemade Pimento Cheese [$8.00] | Grilled Focaccia, Pea Tendrils
I enjoyed Ashland's take on pimento cheese, a clever rendition that ate creamy yet tangy, with a fantastic complement in the form of that rustic focaccia.


Avocado & Roasted Tomato Toast [$10.00] | Goat Cheese, Lime, Thai Chili, Pickled Pearl Onion, Smoked Salt
The toasts did a nice job showing off the lushness of avocado, pairing it with a lactic component from the goat cheese. Uplifting the dish were the pickles and lime, imparting a sense of balance to things.


Given the lackluster beers preceding, we cut our losses with the stuff on draft and proceeded to BYOB it. First was the 2015 The Bruery Terreux Prairie Rue, a farmhouse ale fermented with Brett in oak barrels, brewed in collaboration with Prairie Artisan Ales. It was delicious, much better than I thought it'd be actually. Tart fruit and aromatic citrus on the nose. The taste conveyed a base of malty, bready flavors linked to barnyard funk and hoppy-citric bitterness, the oak coming through later. Complex, and very well integrated.


Raw Tuna on Crispy Sesame Rice [$14.00] | Ponzu, Shiso, Sriracha Aioli
Tuna arrived clean and slick, with a subtle ocean-y quality that made sense with the fish's base of crispy rice. Nice spice underpinning the whole experience as well.


Leo's Loco Moco [$14.00] | Lemongrass Pork Sausage, Kimchi Rice, Sunny Egg and Kecap Manis
The loco moco hit the mark, a cozy sort of dish that really meshed together the herby, soy-enriched sausage with the acidity of kimchi and that runny egg, a pervasive sweetness tying everything together. Nice.


Next, I busted out a 2015 de Garde The Boysen, a two-year-old barrel-aged wild ale, refermented with boysenberries, then blended with one-year-old "lambic." It was damn tasty, definitely sharp and funky to the smell, with a flavor profile that veered sour and earthy (with a hint of band-aid and oak) at first, the base of fruit coming in toward the midpalate and lingering on the back end.


Charred Shishito Mac & Cheese [$12.00] | Charred Shishito Peppers, Pickled Cherry Peppers, White Cheddar, Herb Crust
The classic mac delivered, with its traditional cheesiness taken up a notch by the spicy, persistent undertones of shishito. Nice crispness from the crust, too.


Niman Ranch Pork Belly Tacos [$16.00] | Corn Tortillas, Charred Lime, Pickled Onion, Cabbage, Guajillo Chili Sauce, Sambal Sour Cream
Pork belly wasn't quite as fatty as I'd hoped for, though it still made for some satisfying tacos. Some great accompaniments here, especially the bright, crunchy veggies and that zippy guajillo salsa.


One of my dining companions had brought along a small growler of 2015 Bottle Logic Toasted in Tahiti, a pale ale with roasted coconut and coffee beans. Lots of coffee at first, transitioning to more of a tropical, astringent edge that kept reminding me of urinal cake, disturbingly. Borderline disgusting--I have no need to drink this ever again.


Edamame Hummus & Yuzu [$11.00] | Sesame, Nori, Thai Chili, Brown Garlic, Togarashi, Wheat Pita
AH's take on hummus was one of the standouts for me. I loved the seaweed-laced, umami-rich, Japanese-y depth of the actual spread. It was delicious alone, and made for a perfect pairing to the crispy, charred pieces of pita included.


Crispy Cauliflower [$15.00] | Salmoriglio, Parmesan, Saffron Aioli, Pickled Vegetables, Espelette
Cauliflower was a must-try of course. Lovely fried texture and savoriness on the actual veggies, and I appreciated the tartness of the pickles as well as that citrusy salmoriglio.


Red Curry Deviled Eggs [$7.00] | Nori, Radish, Crispy Garlic, Thai Chili
I'm a big deviled egg fan, and these were an unconventional take on the classic. Strong curry presence to go along with the richness of the yolk, the whole thing boosted by a prickly bit of heat.


Our final beer was an imperial stout, the 2015 Modern Times Monsters' Park aged in Caribbean Rum Barrels with Vanilla Beans, part of a 750-bottle release from May. Sweet, aromatic notes of vanilla on the nose, joined by an underlying layer of cacao. On the palate: loads of spicy rum-soaked dark fruit over a base of chocolate-y malt, the vanilla coming through later and lasting long on the close. A delicious and dessert-y vanilla stout, though not quite as decadent as the benchmark Vanilla Rye.


Meatballs [$10.00] | Lamb & Pork, 8 Hour Tomato Sauce, Confit Lemon Rind, Whole Grain Mustard Yogurt
We always tend to order the meatballs when they're available, but these were a bit of letdown unfortunately, coming out dry, mealy, and not particularly flavorful. The tangy tomato sauce, the yogurt, the cheese--they all made sense, but the star of the show just missed the mark.


Market Blueberry Crumble [$10.00] | Oat Crumble, Whipped White Chocolate, Ginger Ice Cream
We finished with a lone dessert, one that worked itself out with a smart balance between sweet blueberry and zesty ginger. Great textures and crunch here, too.

Our entire party was actually very satisfied overall with the food here. It's beer-appropriate fare, but incorporates just enough cheffiness to keep things interesting. Loved the outdoor ambiance as well, and the service (though limited given the format) was on point too. The tap list, however, was mediocre, especially since Ashland Hill bills itself as a beer-centric place. Really nothing of interest there at all--not a single sour, not a single barrel-aged beer, not a single one that I really felt the urge to drink.

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E.R.B. (Los Angeles, CA)

October 19, 2015, 8:00 pm

≫ Next: Clifton's Cafeteria (Los Angeles, CA)

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Everson Royce Bar / ERBar / ERB
1936 E 7th St, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.335.6166
www.erbla.com
Thu 09/24/2015, 08:00p-09:50p





The Arts District-adjacent's latest drinking destination opened recently on September 18th. ERB comes to us from Randy Clement, who's best known around these parts as one of the co-owners of Silverlake Wine, which he opened back in '04 with wife April Langford and George Cossette (a former waiter and Wine Director at Campanile). In 2012, Clement and Langford teamed up with longtime SLW customer Joe Capella to debut wine and spirit shop Everson Royce in Pasadena, named after the couple's twin boys. This same threesome is present at Everson Royce Bar, and to complement the drink program here, they've brought on as chef/partner none other than Mozza alum Matt Molina, whom Clement met while working as a sommelier at Campanile back in '98.

About the Chef: Born in 1978, Molina was raised in the SGV, and graduated from Bishop Amat Memorial High in 1995. Just a few weeks after finishing, he enrolled at Raimund Hofmeister's Los Angeles Culinary Institute in Burbank, a short-lived culinary school that opened in 1991 and closed abruptly in 2000. Following his studies there, he went to work at Mi Piace in Pasadena, and later at 2087 An American Bistro in Thousand Oaks (at the site of the current Mastro's). Cooking under Richie DeMane, it was here that Molina really fell in love with the craft. In 1998, he took a job at Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton's Campanile, where he started as a line cook before becoming Chef de Cuisine in 2003, replacing Chris Kidder. Molina left in 2005 to help Silverton write her cookbook A Twist of the Wrist, then went to New York for four months to open Mario Batali's Del Posto.

He was then tapped by Silverton, Batali, and Joe Bastianich to become Executive Chef of Pizzeria Mozza and Osteria Mozza. The Pizzeria debuted in November 2007, while its schmancier half dropped the following July. Both were well received, garnering dual three-star reviews from the Times and even a Michelin star for Osteria. In 2008, Osteria was nominated by James Beard for "Best New Restaurant," while Molina himself was a nominee for "Rising Star Chef." This was followed by a "Best Chef: Pacific" nod from Beard in 2010, which was repeated again in 2012, resulting in a win. And in 2011, Molina teamed with Silverton and Carolynn Carreno to author The Mozza Cookbook. However, despite all the fame and acclaim, he left the Mozzaplex in February this year to work on ERB, replaced at Osteria by Elizabeth Hong, a former sous and CdC at Pizzeria whose mother Jenee Kim, interestingly enough, is the owner of Parks BBQ.



ER Bar occupies the site of the old Senor Fish (and The French Garden before that), which closed at the start of 2015. The space was reworked by designer Rachel Hill, who cleaned things up and installed a banquette along one wall, though the marble bar's an original. In addition to the indoor space, there's also a large-ish, cozy patio out back that I suspect will be very popular. Right next door, meanwhile, is an outpost of Silverlake Wine, which opened in May.


As for the menu, think eight beers on draught and some in bottles, as well as commendable wines by the glass joined by a well-chosen, well-priced bottle list. There's a sizable spirit selection, which means cocktails, crafted here by barman Chris Ojeda of SMYC, SoHo House, The Varnish, The Edison, and Osteria Mozza (where he assisted Eric Alperin with designing the bar program). Food-wise, think a handful of booze-friendly, finger-friendly dishes that are probably more straightforward than what you're used to from Molina. Click for larger versions.



And speaking of that spirits list, it's impressive, easily one of the strongest I've seen when it comes to whiskey. Click for larger versions.


Infanté [$12.00] | tequila, lemon, almond, nutmeg, rose water
I arrived early and thus took a seat at the bar, subsequently ordering this monochromatic number. It was more interesting than it looked: spicy-sweet and woody on the nose, while taste-wise, think sour, boozy, with a slight trace of rose. Nice!


Garibaldi [$12.00] | rye, campari, lemon, concord grapes
This next cocktail was probably my favorite of the night, a bittersweet, aromatic concoction with an overarching layer of grapiness finished with the spice of rye.


Flaky Buttermilk Biscuits [$6.00] | honey butter.
Moving outside to the patio now, we ended up ordering everything off of the food menu. First were the biscuits, which I found outstanding: crisp, fluffy, and buttery. Even better with a dab of that sweet-spicy honey butter.


Prosciutto di Parma [$8.00] | 16 months.
The prosciutto was as about as simple as you can get, but satisfying--a slick, salty ham with a nutty sweetness.


Hoffman House [$12.00] | gin, dry vermouth, orange bitters
Coming out starkly clear, this martini-esque cocktail smelled of juicy citrus, but in terms of taste, I found it dry, botanical, with an almost savory, earthy quality.


Mozzarella di Bufala [$12.00] | early girl tomato. cucumber. red onion. oregano. basil.
Mozzarella was as creamy and luscious as I wanted, cut by the acidity in the dish while olive oil added the necessary richness. Great textures, and lovely aromatics from the basil.


"Token" Frenchie Salad [$6.00] | baby lettuce. frisee. yellow wax bean. shallot. radish. herbs.
The requisite salad turned out well. I really enjoyed the crunch from the wax beans and the general herbiness of the dish. Good tanginess from the dressing to tie it all together too.


Paper Plane [$12.00] | bourbon, lemon, aperol, amaro nonino
A Sam Ross creation. Juicy, citrusy, sweet, with a fruity bent to it and not much booze presence. Bright.


Smoky Potato Taquitos [$8.00] | tomatillo avocado salsa. queso fresco. pickled jalapeno. cilantro.
Here we got smooth, silky, smoky potato encased in crunchy tortillas, the salsa-cilantro-jalapeno imparting the necessary zip to things.


La Floridita [$12.00] | rum, lime, maraska liqueur
I appreciated the richness, depth, and complexity made possible by the maraschino, which served as a counter to the juicy, fruit-forward nose of the cocktail.


Kennebec French Fries [$4.00] | aioli. ketchup.
Fires were appropriately crisp, tasty alone or with a dip of tangy ketchup or garlicky aioli.


Steamed Buns [$10.00] | roast pork belly. cucumber pickle. hoisin. scallion.
ERB's take on gua bao was prototypical, with the properly fatty pork belly making sense with the pickles while hot sauce gave up the right amount of heat.


Fancy Free [$12.00] | bourbon, maraska liqueur, angostura, orange bitters
Basically an Old Fashioned incorporating maraska, our final cocktail worked itself out for sure, a viscous, boozy, bittersweet drink with a spicy complexity.


Single Burger [$10.00] | prime beef chuck. tillamook cheddar. dill pickle. egg brioche bun.
Last up was the burger, which wasn't much to look at, coming out flat and floppy. It delivered with regard to taste though, a cheesy, salty, slightly trashy preparation that we found deeply gratifying.

Some of my dining companions left ERB feeling that Molina could've been more ambitious with the food program. Indeed he could have, though given the concept of the place, I'm not sure if that's absolutely necessary. I did enjoy all the dishes that we tried, and this is a bar first and foremost after all. Given that, I actually would like to see the team get more creative with the cocktails. Right now everything on the menu's a classic, modern or otherwise, so it'd be nice if they started pushing things more once the place gets established.

Clifton's Cafeteria (Los Angeles, CA)

October 21, 2015, 7:55 pm

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Clifton's Brookdale Cafeteria
648 S Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.627.1673
www.cliftonsla.com / www.cliftonscafeteria.com
Wed 10/14/2015, 07:55p-11:30p





Clifton's, Downtown's most hotly-anticipated debut in a long while, finally opened its doors on October 1st. After being purchased by The Edison's Andrew Meieran in 2010, the historical eatery underwent a major modernization, but one, fortunately, that's kept the place's woodsy charm intact. Supposedly, the food program's been overhauled by Chef Jason Fullilove (most recently at Malibu Pier Restaurant and Bar) and Exec Sous Robbie Arnold-Starr (Belcampo Meat Co), while desserts have been refreshed by Pastry Chef Michael Luna (Barton G, Bijou and Amaya in La Jolla, Campanile, Le Foret in New Orleans, Gordon Ramsay at The London). Clifton's is slated to have no fewer than five bars (though only two were operational tonight), and the man in charge of the beverage program is Damian Windsor, whom you might know from Power House, Warwick, The Roger Room, and Seven Grand.

A bit of history: Clifton's was once part of a restaurant chain of nine to 11 cafeterias (the number varies depending on source), most of which were noted for having a theme and for providing free meals to patrons who couldn't afford to pay. It all started with one Clifford Clinton ("Clifton" is a mash-up of his first and last names), whose grandfather David Harrison Clinton moved to Los Angeles from Missouri in 1888. His son Edmond Jackson Clinton settled in San Francisco, where he and his wife Gertrude ran a number of cafeterias. Clifford, meanwhile, was born in 1900 (one of five children), and spent some of his early years in China, where his parents provided humanitarian aid to the poor.

He left school at age 14 to work in the family business, and would eventually take over his father's interest in the restaurants. However, he disagreed with his partners' business practices, and wound up selling his stake to his cousin and brother-in-law and moving to Los Angeles in 1931. That year, he took over the lease of an old Boos Brothers cafeteria (618 South Olive) with Ransom Callicott, who would later become co-owner. This was in the midst of the Great Depression, and Clifford's policy of providing free meals earned the cafeteria the nickname "Clifton's Golden Rule." Turnout was so heavy that he debuted another, more basic eatery called Penny Caveteria (the "cave" referenced its basement location) a few blocks away just a year and a half later.

A regular supporter of the Caveteria offered Clifford a building at 648 South Broadway that he owned, and in 1935, the second (and sole surviving) Clifton's opened with a woodland theme, inspired by Clifford's time spent in the Northern California woods near Santa Cruz. It was the largest cafeteria in the world at the time, and the success of the theme component resulted in the original restaurant being redone in a tropical motif in 1939 and renamed Clifton's Pacific Seas (the second spot was then christened Clifton's Brookdale to differentiate it).

In the late 1930s and 1940s, Clifford became a political reformer and anti-corruption activist, which angered a number of City officials who were in cahoots with organized crime. Despite the mob's best efforts, he was successful in cleaning up City Hall, and his campaigns even resulted in the removal of mayor Frank Shaw. In 1946, he and wife Nelda Patterson sold their stake in Clifton's to three of their children and founded Meals for Millions, a non-profit aimed at distributing food to people around the globe (he had developed "Multi-Purpose Food," a concentrated soy-based protein supplement costing only pennies per serving a few years earlier). The restaurants were now in the hands of Jean, Donald, and Edmond Clinton (with Edmond selling his stake to his siblings in 1965). A period of expansion followed.

In 1956, the third Clifton's debuted in Lakewood Center, a suburban mall location that closed in 2001. This was followed in 1958 by West Covina at the Eastland Shopping Center, while the Anaheim outpost at the Broadway Orange County Shopping Center was in place by 1959. 1960, meanwhile, saw Clifton's South Seas shutter; its building was subsequently torn down and the land turned into a parking lot (which remains today). A Spanish-themed cafeteria opened in '66 in Century City; it would operate for 20 years before closing at the end of 1986. Following Clifford's death in 1969, the company returned to Downtown LA in 1975 with Clifton's Silver Spoon at 515 West 7th, the site of Más Malo and Seven Grand/Bar Jackalope; it lasted until 1997. In 1978, the Clifton's in West Covina moved to West Covina Fashion Plaza as the garden-themed Clifton's The Greenery, where it remained until 2003. Woodland Hills was next, which was followed in 1987 by the final Clifton's in Laguna Hills. That one met its demise in 1999.

Edmond passed away in 1992, and in 2001, Robert Clinton, son of Donald, took over the family business. He purchased the Clifton's Brookdale building in 2006 in order to escape the vagaries of leasing. Just a couple months later however, in August, Jean Clinton Roeschlaub was murdered inside her penthouse at the Monterey Island Condominiums in Glendale. The case remains unsolved. After years of declining sales, waning relevance, and familial tragedy, the Clintons finally put the Broadway building up for sale in August 2009, at a price of $4.75 million for the 47,000 square-foot space. It was purchased by Andrew Meieran in September 2010. He closed Clifton's in September 2011 for renovations, which were expected to last up to six months at a cost of roughly $3 million, and advertised a 2012 re-opening. Things, obviously, did not stick to plan, the place opening over three years late and about $11 million over budget.


The entry area at Clifton's, with the main dining room to the right. Note the path to the cafeteria in the center of the frame.


Above we see the passage leading to the cafeteria entrance.


Here we have the initial view of the cafeteria, a well-lit, gleaming room of white and stainless featuring a number of food stations.


The point of view from the opposite corner of the cafeteria. The place was far less crowded than I'd expected.



As per tradition, each dish is sold individually for the most part. Expect to see old school Americana--your turkey, roast beef, sides and soups, fountain drinks, and of course that Jell-o that everybody talks about--as well as a number of new additions, including pizza, made possible by the addition of an appropriate oven. Unfortunately, many of the more appealing items were nowhere to be found: the fried chicken, Swedish meatballs, ramen, roast beef, the giant meatball. Click for larger versions.


After you pay, you're dropped into the multilayered first floor dining room, where things are as fanciful as you'd expect, a rustic space that wouldn't seem out of place at Disneyland.


Going up to the second floor, we see even more seating near the front of the building.


Moving to the rear, we have the so-called Cathedral Grove, replete with that oft pictured faux redwood and the Monarch Bar.


The Monarch Bar menu features just five cocktails, as well as beer on tap and wines by the glass. Click for a larger version.


El Presidio [$13.00] | Hendrick's Gin, Chareau California Aloe Liqueur, Strawberry Shrub, Lime, Seltzer, Miracle Mile Celery Coconut Bitters
We took a seat on the second floor and began to make our way through the cocktail list. This first one was fairly prosaic: not much nose, and a round flavor profile that veered sweet.


Side Salads [$2.50/each]
Up first was a selection of Clifton's' side salads:

• Carrot-Raisin Salad: Surprisingly good--sweet and tart with some crunch.
• Tuna Salad: Fishier than I would've liked, though still palatable.
• Potato Salad: Passable; herby and tangy, but not as creamy as I'd prefer. Reminiscent of the potato salad we get when my work caters lunch.
• Cucumber Salad: In need of more acid, more pepperiness.
• Coleslaw: Not nearly creamy enough, nor acidic enough.
• Grain Salad: Gritty, nutty, tangy, not bad.
• Seasonal Fruit Salad: À la continental breakfast at the Doubletree.

Potatoes + Gravy [$4.00 + $4.00]
Unsurprisingly, the most crowded of the stations was the carvey, which offers up a main protein and choice of two sides for $12. I was able to get my sides without much delay, but when it came to meats, they'd totally run out of ham/roast beef, and after standing in line like an idiot for a while, I was told that it'd be a 30 minute wait for more. That was obviously unacceptable, so I paid for the sides and left. Potatoes were cold and largely undercooked, the gravy congealed and not particularly appetizing. And all this for only eight bucks.


Mac 'n' Cheese + Stuffing [$4.00 + $4.00]
I actually had two trays with me, and the second fared a touch better I suppose. The mac, again, was congealing, and not nearly as creamy as it should be (I'd rather have Kraft's). The stuffing? Cold, dry, bland (I'd also rather have Kraft's).


Alcatraz [$14.00] | Jim Beam Rye, French Vermouth, Lemon, Pomegranate
Our second cocktail was more interesting: sweet, almost medicinal aromas, with a bittersweet, herbaceous palate backed by a creeping booziness.


Cheese Pizza + Spinach Mushroom Pizza [$2.75 + $4.75]
Time to sample the new pizza offerings. The cheese variety was pure grade school, not bad, just banal. The spinach-mushroom was a bit more my style, with the veggie imparting a welcomed bitterness.


Smoked Turkey [$12.00] | Mashed Potatoes, Mac 'n' Cheese
One of my dining companions got some turkey eventually (the kitchen seemingly gave up on the beef and ham). Unfortunately, the bird was dry, cold, and just not very good (I've had better turkey out of a box from Vons). And those potatoes? Grainy and bland. In fact, one person at my table thought that they tasted reconstituted, and I wouldn't doubt it. What was really disturbing, though, was that the kitchen staff was advertising the dark meat turkey as ham. What's worse? That the cooks were willingly trying to pass off turkey as ham, or that they were so inept as to not know the difference? It's amateur hour at Clifton's apparently.



The Catalina Bison Patty Melt [$11.75] | Curried Onions, California Cheddar, Spiced Ketchup
The patty melt turned out to be one of the better items we had, despite that fact that the bison (which came frozen) was dry and the cheese not melty enough. As for the fries? Pretty decent. Room service at the Marriott-level.


Fort Ross [$13.00] | Hangar One Vodka, Giffard Creme de Banane, Lemon, Yellow Chartreuse, Juniper Honey, Egg White, Seltzer
Here we see one of my favorite cocktails, a smooth, creamy drink with a great sweet-tart interplay and all-encompassing egginess.


Smoked Turkey [$12.00] | Mashed Potatoes, Mac 'n' Cheese, Cranberry Sauce
Given that they were completely out of ham and roast beef, we were forced to get more turkey. Fortunately, the cranberry sauce did help add moisture and mask some of the off flavors in the meat.


Fish and Chips
Fish 'n' chips were a highlight: thin, crispy, and strangely reminiscent of Van de Kamp's frozen fish sticks (or Gorton's, if you prefer). This took me back to my college days, when I used to purchase said sticks in bulk and cook 'em up in the toaster oven whenever the drunchies struck.


Seasonal Salad Counter [$9.75]
I don't think I've ever had jalapeños, strawberries, blueberries, cherry tomatoes, and what seemed like guacamole together in a salad before, but it worked out better than you'd think.


The Ahwahnee [$14.00] | Famous Grouse Blended Scotch, Lemon, Egg White, Pernod, Absinthe, Seltzer
I enjoyed this cocktail as well, all spicy and lemon-y and creamy in texture, with the scotch providing a persistent booziness in the background.


Seared Ahi Tuna Sandwich [$14.75] | Pickled Ginger, Daikon Sprouts, Lemon Aioli
Ahi was fishier than it should've been, though the tanginess of its various accompaniments did help considerably. My major issue here was with the bread, which came out ridiculously chewy, making the sandwich nigh impossible to eat cleanly. Again, the fries were the saving grace.


Sierra Mint Cake [$5.00]
We'd had our fill of the savories and got into the sweet stuff at this point. Our first cake arrived super moist, which was appreciated, and really, really minty, tasting a bit like mint-chocolate chip ice cream. It was too much for some of my dining companions, which likened the potency of the mint to toothpaste.


Strawberry Sheet Cake
A sort of strawberry cake was very enjoyable--tangy, sweet, and fluffy to the bite.


Golden Globe [$12.00] | Rhum J.M. Gold, Lime, Stiggins Extra Fancy Pineapple Rum
Here we have our final cocktail from the Monarch Bar. Some strongly tropical, almost ginger-y notes on this one, backed by a tart, astringent quality with the rum well-moderated.


Pork Ribs
We made a brief detour back to the savories with the ribs, which were unfortunately dry. I think they slathered on way too much sauce to try to make up for that, but said sauce resulted in the dish being just overwhelmingly tart. If you're in the mood for ribs, you'd be better served at the likes of Lucille's or Claim Jumper.


Ambrosia
Ambrosia was heavy-handed, and desperately in need of more acidity to counteract the toothachingly sugary nature of the dessert.


Yellow Jello [$0.35]
Clifton's is known for its jello, and I guess I can't complain. It's jello, jiggly and whatnot.


With the cocktails done with, we ordered up some whiskey, specifically the Nikka Coffey Grain [$36/double]. I got lots of sweet vanilla on the nose, while the palate was more in-your face--notes of fruity spice at first, but with a strong underlying bitterness and plenty of alcoholic burn.


Lemon Meringue Pie
A lemon meringue pie was properly tart, though the meringue portion was too heavy, too sugary, too eggy.


Red Jello [$0.35]
The red jello seemed more O.G., with a strong artificial cherry-like taste.


Chocolate Cup
Arguably the best dessert was this chocolate teacup, containing a caramel-y, maple-y custard of some sort.


With the meal proper done with, we moved up to the third floor. The landing area is pictured above.


If we head toward the front of the building, we have a ballroom-slash-banquet room sort of space.


Go in the opposite direction and you'll enter the Gothic Bar, which overlooks the Cathedral Grove below.


At the moment, the Gothic Bar's cocktail list offers up six drinks, though I'm assuming that more will gradually be added. Click for a larger version.


Angel's Flight [$13.00] | Aviation Gin, Plum-Cherry Shrub, Mint, Soda, Served tall with a mint sprig
We began with this refreshing, lighthearted number, one that showed off a strong herby character along with an oddly intriguing savoriness.


The Two Rays [$14.00] | Jim Beam Prohibition Rye Whiskey, Aromatique Amaro, PX Sherry, Fresh Lemon & Egg White, Served in handled mug with a dash of Angostura
A whiskey sour-esque drink hit the mark, coming out with a good mix of boozy, bittersweet, and tart flavors, all joined by the frothiness of egg white. Nice crunch and sweetness from the chocolate spoon as well, though I've no idea where the advertised "handled mug" went.


Something Wicked [$14.00] | Wild Turkey Rye Whiskey, Kimo Sabe Mezcal, Angostura & Mole Bitters, Served over ice with a flamed orange peel
The booziest cocktail of the bunch really conveyed the spiciness of the rye, accompanied by hits of juicy citrus and bitterness. I didn't get much from the mezcal however.


Hyperion [$13.00] | Altos Tequila, House-made Orgeat, California Lime Juice, Rose Water & Nutmeg, Served over cobbled ice with an edible flower
Perhaps our favorite from the Gothic Bar, this one gave up some great floral and nutty nuances alongside tartness from the lime and just a bit of heat from the tequila.


Electric Sheep [$13.00] | Double Cross Vodka, Apple Brandy, Fresh Lemon Juice & Prosecco, Served up in a cocktail coupe with a vintage apple slice
Another enjoyable cocktail. A base of sweet, fruity, apple-y flavors here countered by the astringency of prosecco while vodka gave the necessary heft.


Forrest J. [$14.00] | Monkey Shoulder Scotch, Fresh Lime Juice, Pama & Ginger Beer, Served tall with a lime wheel
A bubbly, effervescent, lightweight concoction, with notes of sweet, juicy pear set against zesty ginger and lime.

I left Clifton's disappointed with the food, as did the rest of my party of 10. The whole process of actually getting said food was a bit of a shitshow, with the kitchen constantly running out of items (or, actually, not even attempting to keep the advertised dishes in stock), despite not being busy. That would've been forgivable if the food were actually good, but it wasn't. One of my dining companions likened the cooking to HomeTown Buffet's, but I'm not even sure if it was at that level. My thought was more along the lines of "fourth grade school lunch" (and I went to public school). Leading up to the opening, we were promised "elevated" cafeteria fare, but the food was far from it. What a shame.

That being said, not everything was a waste. The space itself is lovely, with lots of different seating options, lots of different areas to explore. The beverage program's worth checking out as well. And I actually like the whole idea of a cafeteria, it's just the execution that's sorely lacking. Let's not forget that there's still much more to come from Clifton's. Most interesting to me is the high-end, old-school steakhouse set for the fourth floor, along with an accompanying Treetops bar. Then there's the tiki bar, named South Seas as an ode to the first Clifton's. We also have Shadow Box, an industrial, basement-located speakeasy concept replete with ice sculptures. A lot to look forward to for sure, though my excitement has definitely been tempered based on this experience.

PettyCash Taqueria (Los Angeles, CA)

September 24, 2015, 10:00 pm

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Petty Cash Arts District
712 S Santa Fe Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90021
213.624.0210
www.pettycashtaqueria.com
Thu 09/24/2015, 10:00p-10:55p





One of the more ambitious restaurants to both open and close last year was Beau Laughlin's Fifty Seven. If you recall, the place debuted in March with David Nayfeld at the helm but shuttered after a mere six months, the opening chef replaced by ex-Farmshop toque Josh Drew. Stepping into the old Heinz loading dock space is the second outpost of PettyCash, that modern taqueria concept from Walter Manzke. PC 2.0 dropped at the end of August, following a series of one-night-only guest chef dinners that brought in the likes of Wes Avila, Carlos Salgado, Tim Hollingsworth, Javier Plascencia, Trey Foshee, and Elena Irra. We stopped in recently following a visit to Matt Molina's new E.R.B. up the street.

As far as the kitchen goes, Fabian Gallardo will remain at the original Beverly location, so Manzke's tapped David Chavez to serve as his CdC here. The El Paso native attended culinary school at the Austin outpost of Le Cordon Bleu, graduating in 2005. Following, he returned to his hometown and began working as a sous at Café Central, where he stuck around for three years. In March 2008, Chavez moved to Las Vegas, becoming sous at Thomas Keller's Bouchon. This was followed by a stint at Bouchon Bakery in New York and, in 2013, an exec sous position at Bouchon Beverly Hills. In June 2014, Chavez relocated to Sacramento with his family to become Executive Chef at Randall Selland and Nancy Zimmer's The Kitchen. He stayed there until July 2015, when he came back down to SoCal to take the reins at PettyCash.


The old Fifty Seven space has been transformed into a much brighter, more casual, more colorful room, replete with murals by Kelcey Fisher (KFiSH). Unfortunately, I've heard that the basement space--originally slated for a Julian Cox-designed bar I believe--is still unused.


As for PettyCash's menu, it's in the same vein as that at the original, with perhaps a somewhat more limited raw bar. The beverage program, meanwhile, follows more closely. Click for larger versions.


Nice Melons [$12.00] | pisco, galia melon, white pepper, coriander, gentian aperitif, fresh lime
Our first of four cocktails was a welcomed start. I found it a viscous, almost creamy drink, with a base of tart, tangy flavors combined with a bevy of bitter, vegetal notes.


Dungeness Crab Tostada [$13.00] | avocado, Tenerelli Orchard peaches
Crab was on the salty side, though this was well-tempered by the juiciness of peaches and the assorted greenery sprinkled on top. Nice use of avocado and corn as well.


Pig Ear Nachos [$15.00] | crema poblana, soft egg
Next was something that was first teased all the way back at Test Kitchen 2012. That original preparation was probably the best version of nachos I've had, and though tonight's iteration didn't quite reach the same lofty heights, it was still a gratifying dish. Think just the right amount of trashy, with the crunchy-chewy ears the star.


Baja Fish Taco [$6.00] | Negra Modelo beer-battered grouper, pico de gallo, cabbage, crema
The ubiquitous fish taco was pretty O.G. when you got down to it, the grouper making total sense with its traditional accompaniments. Tasty.


Rosé Jose [$12.00] | rosé, tequila blanco, rhubarb, pink peppercorn, lemon, seltzer
For our next cocktail, imagine sweet, floral flavors in a fizzy package, offset by the woody, boozy weight of tequila. A fun one.


Tuna [$12.00] | Mexicola avocado, poblano, cucumber, pickled red onion
Tuna arrived nicely textured, a dense, meaty presentation that definitely worked alongside the bright, herby nuances in the dish.


Wood Fired Octopus [$6.50] | chile de arbol, peanuts, jack cheese, avocado
Octo was properly tender, well-charred, its smokiness matched by contrasting notes of nuttiness and heat. A bit oily though.


Dorados [$5.00] | crispy rolled potato tacos, tomatillo sauce, cotija cheese (2 pieces)
Flautas featured a smooth, silky filling of potato that really called for the tomatillo to shine. Excellent crunchiness from the tortillas as well.


Oaxacan Angel [$12.00] | single village mezcal, agave, castilian bitters, grapefruit
Given where we were, a mezcal cocktail was certainly called for, and this one fit the bill. I got lots of juicy citrus on the nose, but taste-wise this was all about the base spirit, with bountiful smokiness and trace amounts of aromatics from the bitters.


Beef Tongue [$5.50] | salsa verde, guacamole
Lengua came out sliced thin, with a great texture and its substantial beefiness evened out by that accompanying green sauce.


Grilled Corn and Poblano Pepper Quesadilla [$11.00] | pepper jack cheese, fresno chilies, crema
The quesadilla really conveyed the sweetness of corn, set off by the heat from the chilies while cheese and crema bound it all together.


Cook's Ranch Pork Belly Carnitas [$6.00] | salsa verde, guacamole
The carnitas taco was a hit with its crispy, charred, fatty shards of pork belly leading the way, the onions and cilantro making for a zesty counter.


Rumchata [$12.00] | our house made dirty horchata with Trinidad Rum
Certainly, the most dessert-y cocktail of the bunch was this take on horchata, which had all your classic sweet, spicy, creamy notes, but with the booziness of rum underscoring it all. Yum.


Yucca Churros [$7.00] | Harris Family wild flower honey whipped cream
Cassava churros were dense little nuggets, with dark, sugary flavors and a sweet spice lightened up by the whipped cream.


Apple Empanadas [$8.00] | Fair Hill pink lady apples, cinnamon ice cream
Empanadas were heavy on the spicing, but in a good way. Even better with a dab of that cinnamon ice cream.

Unsurprisingly, the food and drink program's pretty similar to what's being put out at the original PettyCash, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Bottom line: if you're a fan of the Beverly location, you should be well served here.

Baroo (Los Angeles, CA)

October 20, 2015, 7:10 pm

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Baroo Restaurant
5706 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.819.4344
baroola.strikingly.com / www.baroola.com
Tue 10/20/2015, 07:10p-10:10p





Set in one of LA's sadder strip malls in a sleepy, still-gritty section of Hollywood is one of the most fascinating restaurant debuts of the year. Baroo takes over an address that previously held no fewer than three ho-hum Thai joints: Joe Noodle, Anna S Thai Mix Grill Restaurant, and Sunshine Restaurant. Described by its owners as a "free-style experimental kitchen," the place opened in mid-August and aims to highlight the role of fermentation in the kitchen. It's the work of Chef/Owner Kwang Uh and partner Matthew Kim (an NYU grad who used to run the American operations of Korean bibimbap chain Bibigo), childhood friends who met while attending school in Korea.

About the Chef: Uh hails from Seoul, but moved to the US to attend the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park. He began his studies there in 2007, and after his first year, interned at Terrance Brennan's French-Mediterranean eatery Picholine. After finishing in 2009, he took on a chef de partie role at Daniel Boulud's iconic Daniel, where he stayed until 2010. This was followed by a stint as Executive Chef at Nobu at the Atlantis resort in the Bahamas from 2011 to 2013. Uh then went back to school at the Università degli Studi di Scienze Gastronomiche in Piedmont, Italy, where he attained a master's degree in Food Culture and Communications in March 2014. He subsequently underwent a series of stages at some of the world's best kitchens--modernist Italian mainstay Piazza Duomo, techno-emotional standard-bearer Quique Dacosta, New Nordic darling Noma--before relocating to LA to start work on Baroo.


The menu is concise, about eight items (with the occasional special), and mostly vegetarian. The majority of the dishes consist of ferment-y things over starch/grain (with much of the produce coming from Kim's home garden), and are meant to mimic the dinner bowls enjoyed by Buddhist monks. There are also a handful of desserts, while drinks comprise housemade kombuchas and tepache.


Noorook (Koji) [$12.00] | Job's tears, Kamut & farro, roasted koji beet creme, concentrated kombu dashi, toasted seeds (sunflower & pumpkin) & macadamia nuts, finger lime, and rose onion pickle
This homage to nuruk was one of my favorites. A lot of wonderfully earthy, nutty flavors from the grains, amplified even further by the depth of that koji-beet cream while pickled onion gave the perfect amount of kick. Superb textures, too, from both the seeds and the nuts.


Asian Fever [$9.00 + $1.00] | Amira basmati rice, lemongrass & coconut foam with sake lees, southeast Asian inspired house mix, crispy shrimp chip, heirloom cherry tomatoes, and lime supreme + 63°C sous vide egg
Another winner was this curiously-named dish, which conveyed mass amounts of brine and umami at first, which transitioned to a lingering, tingling heat as things progressed. The rice served as a great base for all the strong flavors, and the brightness from the tomatoes was appreciated as well.


Pickle Sampler [$2.00/each] | shiso beet, Napa cabbage kimchi w/ pineapple jus, onion + lime + jalapeño, red onion w/rose, passionfruit kraut, celeriac + sweet potato
Only six of the eight type of pickles were on offer tonight, and going clockwise from top-center, we had:

• shiso beet - Great crunch and shiso mintiness on the back end.
• passionfruit kraut - Tart throughout, but with permeating notes of passion fruit sweetness.
• onion + lime + jalapeño - My favorite of the bunch with its mix of sour and spicy; would be fantastic on some tacos.
• Napa cabbage kimchi w/ pineapple jus - Strong pineapple tartness against a backdrop of traditional kimchi flavors.
• red onion w/ rose - Classic red onion tanginess finished with floral notes.
• celeriac + sweet potato - Savory to sweet, on top of funk.

Baroo's Ragu Style (Handmade Pasta) [$15.00] | spicy faux oxtail ragu, tendon puff, gochujang gremolata w/ cherry tomatoes, krout powder, three years aged Parmigiano Reggiano
Our first of two housemade pastas delivered boatloads of the dark, rich, beefy flavors that you'd expect from oxtail, tarted up by a smidge of spice and a tempering sweetness. Nice textural component from the tendons, too.


I enjoyed the Yuzu Lemon Verbena Kombucha [$3] more than I thought I would, finding it very puckering, with a suanmei-esque character leading to a floral finish. The Tepache [$3], meanwhile, tasted sweet 'n' spicy, with a base of pineapple and an additional zinginess from what must be the fermented cherry juice.


Celeriac (Handmade Pasta) [$12.00] | celery roots, celery crudité w/ pickled mustard seeds, celery ash, crispy celeriac chips
The second pasta was lighter, though quite creamy actually, and really did a great job conveying the essence of both celery and celeriac. I thoroughly enjoyed the crunch provided by those chips as well.


Kimchi Fried Rice [$9.00 + $2.00] | pineapple fermented kimchi, Amira basmati rice, 63°C sous vide egg, gremolata, pineapple jalapeño salsa, purple potato chip, roasted seaweed, toasted buckwheat & quinoa, and micro greens + slab bacon
Not surprisingly I suppose, the fried rice was arguably my favorite course of the night. Just a superb texture on the actual rice here, which made for a flawless stage on which the various ingredients in the dish could really shine. I was especially fond of the potato chips and the hits of salt from the bacon, while pineapple added acidity.


Bibim Salad [$9.00] | grains w/ oat, quinoa & bulgur, vegetable crudité w/ fennel, celery, asparagus, baby radish, heirloom carrot, toasted seeds (pumpkin & sunflower), gochujang San Marzano tomato dressing, herbs coulis, passion fruit powder, baby kale, and Asian pear
This salad was the lightest dish we had, and definitely hit the mark as well. I was a big fan of the brightness and crunch of the veggies, and how that went with the sweetness of the fruit. And again, excellent texture and nuttiness from the grains. Well put-together.


Gim (Seaweed) [$12.00] | Job's tears, Kamut & farro grains with amazu assorted seaweed comptè w/ shiitake, tofu & spirulina, nasturtium, nori chip, mixed berries, wasabi daikon, lime onion jalapeño pickle
Our last savory brought out another standout. The grains here really wowed me, perhaps more so than in any other dish. As good as they were though, the star was the gim, with the seaweed imparting an intoxicating, in-yo-face umami richness that just made me want to keep eating. Interesting counterpoint from the berries too.


Classic Shortbread [$2.00/each] | 84% butter, cacao nibs & citrus bursts
Caramel Pearl Chocolate & Oat Cookie [$2.00/each] | 70% Valrhona chocolate, nocciola
Dessert time. Rectangles of shortbread were delightfully crumbly, slightly buttery to the bite and tinged by pricks of citrus. The cookies, meanwhile, were tasty as well, just sweet enough with a nice savoriness from the inclusion of hazelnut.


Passion Fruit Tart [$7.00] | vanilla bean tart, macha yuzu chiffon, passion fruit curd, elderflower meringue
Last up was the passion fruit tart, which showed off a great blend of sweet and sour flavors against a green tea astringency.

Baroo's a bit odd, but also endearing, and we all really liked the place. Clearly, the kitchen's pretty much taking this whole "bowl" concept to the highest level, with robustly-flavored, yet finessed preparations that still have a certain ease and humbleness to them. The place is one-of-a-kind, and I don't think I've encountered cooking quite like this in LA before. Uh and Kim are really on to something here, and we should all be looking forward to seeing where they take this. Be sure to give Baroo a shot before it blows up even more than it already has.

Sausal (El Segundo, CA)

October 29, 2015, 7:05 pm

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Sausal Restaurant
219 Main St, El Segundo, CA 90245
310.322.2721
www.sausal.com
Sun 09/27/2015, 07:05p-10:00p





The most interesting opening to hit El Segundo in a long time came at the start of September. Named after Rancho Sausal Redondo (a land grant that once encompassed much of the area south of LAX), Sausal aims to present a modern take on Alta California, rancho-inspired cuisine, with a particular emphasis on wood-fired, slow-roasted cooking. It's the work of partners Sorin Costache and Joseph Suceveanu (GM and founder of Santa Monica's Il Forno, respectively), as well as Chef Anne Conness.

About the Chef: Conness was born in Florida but raised in Northern California. She attended Georgetown, majoring in English, and during her time there, cemented her interest in food and cooking after a life-changing meal at Jean-Louis Palladin's eponymous restaurant at the Watergate. Following graduation, she moved to Los Angeles and worked in entertainment as a set background painter, then later took a position in Warner Bros' postproduction department. Already in her thirties by this point, Conness decided to change careers and enrolled at the Epicurean School of Culinary Arts in West Hollywood. After finishing, she landed a gig at Wolfgang Puck's iconic Chinois on Main, working under Exec Chef Mako Tanaka (who helped open the restaurant in 1983 with Kazuto Matsusaka of Beacon fame).

Next came stints at Campanile and Water Grill (helmed by Michael Cimarusti at the time). She then went to work for Alex Scrimgeour at Saddle Peak Lodge and followed him to the short-lived Alex (which occupied the address most recently home to Hatfield's). Conness secured her first Executive Chef role in 2002 at Charles Nuzzo's EM Bistro in WeHo, but left in 2004 despite considerable accolades. Her next job was that of EC at Napa Valley Grille, where she earned acclaim for revitalizing the somewhat chain-y restaurant; however, she was out the door by December 2006, replaced by Joseph Gillard. In 2007, Conness partnered with Mike Simms, and they eventually opened Simmzy's as well as Tin Roof Bistro in Manhattan Beach in 2009, both of which have aided the rise of the South Bay dining scene.


Sausal takes over the former homes of Indian Summer and Electric Bikes LA (they've been combined). It's an attractive room, vaguely rancho-themed, anchored by a dual-sided fireplace and a mural by artist Celeste Korthase.


As for Sausal's menu, it's billed as "Nuevo Rancho," incorporating Latin American cookery alongside a Cal cuisine ethos, and reads like pretty much what you'd expect from an upscale Mexican joint. To drink, there are about a dozen beers available, a compact South American-leaning wine list, a few cocktails (with decent back bar), and Stumptown coffee. Corkage was advertised at $19 a pop, with no limit. Click for larger versions.


Prickly Pear Caipirinha [$11.00] | Leblon Cachaca, Lime Cubes, Prickly Pear, House Grenadine
This take on Brazil's iconic caipirinha was, not surprisingly, much sweeter than you typically find, with the fruitiness of the prickly pear front and center, offset only somewhat by the lime.


Yellowtail Crudo [$16.50] | heirloom tomato habanero sauce, avocado, serrano chilis, garlic, cumin lime salt, corn nuts
We began with the crudo, which was one of the standouts of the night, the clean cuts of fish pairing seamlessly with the sour/spicy/sweet nuances in the dish. Perfect crunchiness from the toasted corn too.


Caramelized Brussels Sprouts over Sourdough Croutons [$9.00] | guajillo butter, croutons, smoked cashews, dried shrimp & lime
Brussels came out out bitter and charred. Tasty sure, though I wanted more funkiness from the dried shrimp. The croutons didn't really do much for me either.


Smoky Paloma [$14.00] | Fidencio Unico Mescal, Honey Syrup, Lillet Blanc, Grapefruit, Lime, Splash Soda
A take on the paloma went down easy, the bright, floral flavors in the drink countered by the smokiness of mezcal.


Potato Rajas [$9.00] | weiser farms heirloom potatoes, poblano chili cream, habanero yellow salsa, shredded red cabbage, crisped up mushrooms
Tiny potatoes were elevated by the richness of poblano crema in a somewhat unconventional taco. Good textural contrast from the shreds of red cabbage, and I enjoyed the sweet-hot punch of that habanero salsa too.


Spicy Tuna Tostadas [$15.00] | sushi-grade yellowfin, avocado puree, chili mayo, apple slaw, chia
Tuna was paired with a sweet-ish, almost Thousand Island-esque condiment that made for slightly muddled flavors. I definitely would've liked more heat as well to punctuate things better.


Rancho Margarita [$8.00] | El Jimador Blanco, Bols Triple, Fresh Citrus, Salt
Sausal's margarita was traditional at its core, with a touch of spiciness on the finish.


Fresh Ceviche Mixto [$11.50] | wild mexican white shrimp, calamari, lingcod, lime, cumin, sweet corn, citrus, celery, yellow habanero salsa
A ceviche presented a patchwork of herby, sweet, and tart flavors, though I wanted more brininess, more distinction between the various items of seafood. A crunchier tostada would've been appreciated as well.


Chicken & Charred Tomato Tinga [$9.50] | crushed avocado, pickled onions, sour cream, cilantro
The tinga ate cozily, its tomato-forward taste accented by a whisper of smoke from the salsa. Nice use of the pickled onions for acidity.


Blackberry Ginger Smashup [$12.00] | Hayman's Old Tom, Lemon Wedges, Blackberry, Ginger Syrup, Mint
Lots of ginger at the start here, with berries coming in later, the whole thing accented by the freshness of mint.


Duck Leg & Chanterelle Tamale [$14.50] | shredded duck confit, roasted chanterelles, black mole, cotija
The tamal definitely showed off the heft of the mole, a sweet, savory, earthy depth that paired well with the shards of duck. Some very strong corn notes from the masa stuffing as well.



Beef & Goat Birria [$19.50] | slow-simmered mixed meats served in chili broth w cilantro-onion relish, jicama slaw, tortillas & a spoon!
Sausal's take on birria largely met the mark. The stew did a pretty good job conveying the rich, spicy, tangy flavors of the classic preparation, and the tender cuts of meat went particularly well with the accompanying tortillas. I was a fan of the onions here too, which gave up a great zestiness.


2nd City Manhattan [$12.00] | Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Carpano Antica Vermouth, Ango Bitters, Fernet Branca, Luxardo Cherry
This variation on the Manhattan was the booziest drink of the night, the bourbon really making itself known against contrasting bittersweet and herbal notes.


Beef Brisket Barbacoa [$11.00] | long cooked beef, black beans, cotija crumbles, charred tomato salsa, scallions
Brisket came out sweet, meaty, and as tender as you'd want, with the cheese serving as an appropriate accent. Yum.


Sweet Corn Elote w Jack Cheese & Chipotle Cream [$4.50]
Esquites were very tasty--sweet and creamy with a touch of smoky spice.


Future Fix [$11.00] | Rittenhouse Rye, Scrappy's Firewater Bitters, Agave, Lemon
In our final cocktail, we had a smart combination of spicy rye and sugary agave flavors as a base, with a back end that was all about a tingling heat.



Pork Pozole [$14.00] | pork & chili stew with hominy & a tostada of cabbage, onion, radish & lime
Given my penchant for pozole, we had to end with the soup. It was one of the highlights of the night for me, displaying all the hearty, homey flavors that I was expecting, combined with a pervasive spice and great textures from the hominy.


Spanish Sticky Date Cake w Spiced Pecans & Vanilla Ice Cream [$7.50]
We were quite full at this point, so we opted for only one of Sausal's desserts, which are the work of Consulting Pastry Chef Natasha MacAller. The cake was a winner as well, loaded with plenty of sugary dark fruit and perfectly matched to the vanilla ice cream and nutty crumbles up top.

I was generally contented with Sausal, especially given where it's located, though a few of the plates could certainly use refining. Conness has got a nice sort of Cal-Mex menu going on, one that's familiar yet incorporates some compelling facets. A positive development for El Segundo.