kevinEats

Ding Tai Fung - Xinyi
No. 194, Section 2, Xinyi Rd, Daan District, Taipei City, Taiwan 106
+886.2.2321.8927
www.dintaifung.com.tw
Mon 04/21/2014, 06:45p-08:25p

Din Tai Fung Exterior

I ended my brief stay in Taiwan with a visit to the country's most well-known culinary export, legendary soup dumpling house Din Tai Fung. There are, of course, numerous branches of the restaurant in the country, but given how rarely I'm here, a trip to the original, 1985 location was called for.

A brief history: DTF traces its roots back to founder Yang Pin Ying, born 1927 in Shanxi, China. He was a military man in his youth, but quickly tired of the lifestyle and wished to seek out better opportunities in Taiwan (the island had been freed of Japanese rule following the end of WWII). He landed in Taiwan in the middle of 1948, his visit there made permanent the next year when the Communists overwhelmed Nationalists forces on the mainland. In Taipei, Yang became a delivery boy for the Heng Tai Fung cooking oil company, which was run by a family from Shanghai. He eventually moved his way up in the business, and, at the age of 28, married one of his coworkers there, the Taiwan-born Li Pam Mae. Heng Tai Fung ended up folding a few years later, and in 1958, Yang and his wife founded their own oil business, naming it Din Tai Fung. The business ran well for some time, and the couple was even able to move to a larger location on Xinyi Road, but eventually languished after tinned oil became popular. As a result, Yang hired a Shanghainese chef in 1972 and began selling dumplings. The business took off, and the Yangs soon shut down their cooking oil operations and focused squarely on making xiaolongbao, launching a dedicated restaurant at the site in 1985.

Din Tai Fung's popularity continued to rise during this period, and diners around the world began to take notice. The first international location opened in Japan in 1996, and in 2000, the company, now run by son Yang Chi Hua, incorporated and opened itself to outside investors. DTF also opened a central kitchen in Taipei's Zhonghe District that year, and, flush with new capital, began its expansion into a worldwide chain. Yang Chi Hua's younger brother Guo Hua "Frank" Yang debuted Din Tai Fung's first US branch in 2000, set in Arcadia, CA. The restaurant was a smashing success (a second opened nearby in 2008 to alleviate the crowds), and more locations followed in China (2001), Singapore (2003), Indonesia (2005), South Korea (2005), Malaysia (2007), Hong Kong (2008), Australia (2008), and Thailand (2011). The outposts in Hong Kong have even been awarded Michelin stars continuously since 2009. More recently, Din Tai Fung launched a branch at Americana at Brand in Glendale last November, and another in Seattle's University Village in December.

Din Tai Fung Crowds

We arrived and were, unsurprisingly, met with crowds. Talk to the ladies out front, get a number, and wait to be called (note the numbers displayed on the screen, representing various table sizes).

The menu is posted in large format outside, and in the interest of expediency, we were instructed to pre-order via the form shown above. The overall selection here is larger than what you get in the US, though it's missing certain items such as the chow mein style dishes possible Stateside. Click for larger versions.

Din Tai Fung First Floor

Din Tai Fung occupies the bulk of a four-story building. The kitchen and the registers are downstairs, while the various dining rooms are up above.

#66 - Pork XiaoLongBao (10 pcs) [NT$200]
We began, of course, with Din Tai Fung's signature XLB, and they didn't disappoint with their bursts of juicy, porky goodness, encased in thin, yet substantial skins that managed to stay together despite my rough handling of them. Tasty alone, but better with a dash of vinegar and a few strands of the included ginger to even things out a tad.

#54 - Din Tai Fung House Special [NT$65]
The restaurant's signature starter was a winner as well, a mix of bean curd, sprouts, and seaweed that conveyed a great combination of tastes and textures tied together by a vinegar-y dressing.

#60 - Shanghai Style Soy Sprouts [NT$65]
Soybean sprouts were on point as well, crunchy and clean with the bits of what I believe was bean curd adding further interest to the dish.

#58 - Spicy Pickled Cucumber [NT$65]
Cucumbers were appropriately crisp, their tartness joined by a subtle undercurrent of heat that I quite appreciated.

Bamboo Shoots

Bamboo didn't seem to be on the menu, but was just what you'd want: crisp, crunchy, with slight tang to it.

#41 - Stir-Fry Pea Shoot [NT$360]
I'm a big fan of stir-fried pea shoots, and these definitely lived up to my expectations, delivering the bright, astringent flavors of the veggie alongside an overarching, garlicky savoriness.

#29 - Shrimp and Pork Fried Rice (With Egg) (White Rice) [NT$260]
I'd heard great things about Din Tai Fung's fried rice, and while it was a really straightforward presentation, the dish certainly delivered, a model preparation of the classic that had everything properly in place.

#45 - Fried Pork Chop [NT$110]
The pork chop formed a natural accompaniment to the fried rice, a simple, but satisfying cut of meat replete with a well-placed bit of char.

#676 - Truffle and Pork XiaoLongBao (5 pcs) [NT$450]
Naturally, given my penchant for truffle, these were a must-order as well. They showed off all the goodness of the aforementioned pork XLB, but with the additional, earthy, fragrant smack of black truffle that really pervaded the dumplings. Delicious.

#78 - Steamed Shrimp and Pork Shiaomai (10 pcs) [NT$330]
The restaurant's take on siumai was also quite enjoyable, though I'd definitely go for the XLB over these, as I found them more delicate, their flavors more focused.

#13 - Green Bean Noodle Soup With Fried Beancurd Puff and Pork Roll [NT$140]
For me, the bean curd was the star of the show here, giving the course a great textural component to pair with the tasty bits of pork, both elements brought together by that light, yet flavorful broth.

#95 - Pork Sticky Rice Bun [NT$75]
DTF's zhongzi were probably the best I've had, the sticky, slightly sweet filling of glutinous rice melding with the pork wonderfully.

#1205 - Noodles with Sesame and Peanut Sauce [NT$100]
The combination of sesame and peanut gave these noodles a sweet, nutty quality that served to counteract some of the stronger, more savory flavors at play during this meal.

#03 - Braised Beef Noodle Soup [NT$220]
The niu rou mian is a gotta have as well, a pretty classic rendition of the dish featuring both hearty slices of beef and gelatinous hunks of tendon, all set in a rich, deep broth, the noodles serving as the perfect moderating element to the dish.

The drink of choice? A fizzy, refreshing Gold Medal Taiwan Beer.

#91 - Shrimp & Pork Pot Stickers (6 pcs) [NT$160]
Guotie were to my liking as well, coming out delightfully crisp, juicy, and with a strong briny flavor from the shrimp that I rather liked.

#82 - Vegetable and Ground Pork Buns (2 pcs) [NT$80]
Baozi were appropriately light and fluffy, though I would've liked more porky goodness here to temper the bitter, almost bracing veggies.

#21 - Vegetable and Ground Pork Wonton Soup [NT$140]
Wontons deftly brought together contrasting flavors of savory pork and slightly astringent veggies in a soft, succulent package, nicely finished by the clean, yet toothsome broth.

#89 - Sesame Buns (2 pcs) [NT$70]
Dessert comprised sesame bao, which were quite nice, their sweet, dark, gritty character balanced by the comparatively mild buns.

Din Tai Fung Dumpling Prep

A peek into Din Tai Fung's dumpling making operation on the way out.

Amazingly, I actually haven't been any of the Din Tai Fungs back here in Los Angeles, so I don't have a basis for reference as to how the original compares. However, the food here really was quite good save for a few nits, and I can certainly see how the place is so popular. The XLB, of course, were spot on, but a lot of the other dishes really delivered as well. Maybe I should go give the Arcadia (or Glendale) location a go...

Mori Dinner at Il Grano
11359 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90025
310.477.7886
www.ilgrano.com
Sat 05/10/2014, 08:45p-12:05a

I don't do too many collaborative dinners these days (I think the last one was when David Kinch cooked at Rustic Canyon), but this latest endeavor between Il Grano's Salvatore Marino and Morihiro Onodera (formerly of Mori Sushi) sounded too interesting to pass up. The two longtime friends (they first met at the fish market I understand) had been cooking informal, late night dinners for over a decade, but this was the first time they had the opportunity to work together in a public setting.

Il Grano Interior

It was a pretty packed house tonight, and I even spotted BierBeisl's Bernhard Mairinger in the crowd.

The night's menu was a 12-courser priced at a not-unreasonable $125 a head, plus $75 for wine pairings from Sommelier Alex Weil (Bouchon, Mozza). Some of the courses were solo efforts, but most of the dishes we enjoyed were developed jointly between the two chefs. Click for a larger version.

1: Nambanzuke / Tofu caprese / Halibut crudo pea shiso / Japanese snapper burrata
Evoluzione: sake, aperol, shishito pepper powder
We commenced with a quartet of little bites, all mash-ups drawing from both Italian and Japanese sensibilities:

Nambanzuke - My favorite of the bunch, the halibut showed off some deliciously rich, deep, umami-laced flavors that were evened out by the acidic crunch of the veggies.
Tofu caprese - Tofu was silky and nutty, with an herby tinge from the basil and all the classic Caprese character that you'd expect.
Halibut crudo pea shiso - A clean, crisp, snappy cut of fish, kicked up a notch by a drizzle of olive oil while the pea-shiso brightened up the bite.
Japanese snapper burrata - Pairing fish and cheese is usually a no-no, but this worked out swimmingly, the lushness of the burrata commingling surprisingly well with the snapper.

2: Sushi & Susci on mori rice
Simon Bize Bourgogne Blanc Les Perrieres 2011
One of my favorite courses of the night was this assortment of untraditional sushi:

Momotaro - Momotaros are always a treat, and the tomato was spot on here, conveying a sweet, juicy relish that paired beautifully with a touch of olive oil and its base of sushi rice.
Kanimiso - Crab and crab innards really displayed the earthy depth of the crustacean, the essence of the kani working flawlessly alongside nuances of shiso and nori.
Garbanzo - In terms of neta, chickpeas are pretty much the last thing that I'd expect to see, but they worked gorgeously here, providing a nutty, crunchy sort of kick that really surprised me.
Grilled Bigeye Toro - Last up was just about the headiest example of tuna I'd ever had (right next to the "spare ribs" at Kyubey), a soft, smoky, super savory presentation of big eye that left me wanting. Utterly delish.

3: hokkaido scallop, chrysanthemum pesto
Simon Bize Bourgogne Blanc Les Perrieres 2011
Slices of scallop were clean and supple, their subtle brine paired with a whisper of floral character from the chrysanthemum. I much appreciated the use of the greenery here, though I could've used a bit more salt to set off the scallops even more.

4: wild big eye tuna tartar, black truffle
Vouvray Huet Le Mont Sec 2012
A tartare of tuna was loaded with deep, umami-rich flavors from its soy marinade, its potent flavors further enhanced by the perfume of truffle. I was a fan of the incorporation of onion and arugula here as well, which imparted a zesty, light 'n' bright character to the dish.

5: cherry gazpacho, Dungeness crab, lemon verbena
Vouvray Huet Le Mont Sec 2012
Here, the inherent sweetness of Dungeness was intended to meld with the fruity relish of the cherry, but the gazpacho went overly jammy, stealing some attention away from the crab. The verbena, though, did help in balancing things out.

6: pea soup, kinmedai, marinated Japanese heirloom tomato
Blanc des Rosis Schioppetto 2010
A pea soup was delightful, a hearty, comforting, nutty potage that really set the stage for the superbly cooked, wonderfully savory fish while the tomato relayed just a hint of tartness.

7: yuwan marinated crispy skate wing, sunchoke puree, ramps
Palaverga Piccolo Basadone Castello di Verduno 2012
The skate was another standout, very possibly the strongest rendition of the ingredient I've had. There's was just a beautiful smokiness and char to the fish, and the astringency of the ramps was a perfect complement. I was also a big fan of the skate's texture, which was soft, supple, but not overly gelatinous as it can sometimes tend to get.

8: mori rice risotto aglio olio, peperoncino and calamari
Emrich Schonleber Spätlese Monzingen Fruhlingsplatzchen' 2009
The risotto was, unsurprisingly, another table favorite, and one of the best I've had. The key here was the use of the peperoncino, which gave up a fantastic whisper of creeping spice that counterbalanced the brine and lushness of the urchin faultlessly, serving as an integrating force in the dish. I also loved the squid here too, which provided a great textural point of interest. I definitely could've used more of this one.

9: spaghetti funghi, morels, pancetta, English peas and favas
Etna Rosso Lu Veru Piaciri Al Cantara 2012
You'd expect to have some damn good spaghetti at Il Grano, and this indeed was a damn good spaghetti. You had the combo of morels and pancetta giving up a boat load of nutty, salty flavors, while the peas and favas provided a tempering sweetness and levity. It was a balanced, delicious presentation to be sure, and the firm texture on the pasta itself was appreciated, too.

10: rabbit milanese, rabbit reduction, shallot-stanwick apricot confit
Barbera d'Alba Burlotto 2012
A Milanese of rabbit was delightfully crisp to the bite, but its crust veered overly sweet, especially when taken in concert with the sugary shallot-apricot confit. I would've liked more acidity or astringency to even things out a bit.

11: A5 wagyu beef, shitake, olio nuovo
Aglianico del Vulture Titolo Elena Fucci 2008
In our final savory course, wagyu beef was divine, as fatty and rich and salty as you'd expect, just an explosion of bovine goodness that left me yearning for another piece. I loved the in-your-face umami bombs that were the shiitakes as well, and the broccolini gave up just the right amount of moderating bitterness and crunch.

12: dolce riso mori
Passito di Pantelleria Donnafugata Ben Rye 2010
We closed with a rice pudding of sorts, one made with Mori-san's specially grown rice. I appreciated how it wasn't overtly sweet, but instead showed off a restrained sort of character augmented by some herbaceous nuances, all while the apricot marmalade on the side bestowed the requisite kick of sugar.

Salvatore Marino

Mori and Sal, at the end of the night.

All in all, a lovely experience. It was great to see these two fixtures of the LA dining scene come together like this, to create a meal that so cohesively blended their two disparate styles of cooking. There were some seriously delicious plates coming out tonight, and I wouldn't mind seeing this become a regular dinner series. Also, in case you're wondering what Chef Mori's been up to ever since he sold his restaurant back in '11, he's been doing one-off dinners such as this and the Friends Cook at Canelé series, not to mention the 12 Days of Christmas up at Meadowood. More importantly, he's expanded his handmade pottery business (his wares have been seen at the likes of Barbershop, Capo, La Botte, Manresa, Melisse, Providence, and of course here at Il Grano), and is producing his own brand of Uruguayan Satsuki rice in partnership with Ichiro Tamaki, which can be found at places such as Orsa & Winston and Melisse.

Toki Underground Ramen
1234 H St NE, Washington, DC 20002
202.388.3086
www.tokiunderground.com
Mon 06/02/2014, 05:00p-06:20p

Toki Underground / The Pug Exterior

The ramen craze that's hit the likes of Los Angeles and New York landed in DC with the debut of Toki Underground in April 2011. Helmed by the 30-year-old Erik Bruner-Yang, the restaurant has been jam-packed from the get go, and features the Chef's take on Taiwanese-style Hakata ramen, a rich, hearty variation of the dish known for its creamy, unabashedly porcine broth (apparently pork trotters are used here in addition to bone) and thin, straight noodles.

About the Chef: Bruner-Yang was born in Taipei to a Taiwanese mother and American father, and lived there for four years until his parents divorced, at which point he moved with his mom to Long Beach, California. She got remarried to one Siegfried Bruner, a Navy journalist who took the family to Japan before settling in Woodbridge, Virginia. Bruner-Yang spent his formative years there, and started working menial jobs in restaurants during high school (his first employer was Red Robin). He studied classical piano heavily throughout his teenage years, but moved away from that direction when he formed indie-pop band Pash in 2002 with fellow University of Mary Washington students Meredith Munoz, Ryan McLaughlin, and Jon Bibb. The band achieved a measure of success (they produced two albums), but Bruner-Yang still worked on-and-off at restaurants during this time, and eventually graduated from UMW with a degree in business administration.

In 2008, after coming off a tour with Pash, he began working as GM at DC's new outpost of the Sticky Rice chain. However, he quickly found himself helping out in the kitchen, and first started conceptualizing Toki as a street food type joint around this time. The following year, Bruner-Yang's grandfather passed, and the neophyte chef went back to Taipei for the funeral, and returned in 2010 for its one-year anniversary as well. It was on this second trip that he worked at a local ramen shop for a month, learning how to make the noodles that would eventually define his career. During this period, he also consulted for Kushi Izakaya and Sushi, helping the place open in spring 2010, but soon found himself working full-time on Toki. He launched a series of pop-ups to build buzz for the restaurant, and launched the place to considerable fanfare on April Fool's Day, 2011.

Toki Underground was a hit right from the beginning, known for both its food and for its epic three-hour waits during prime time. The success of the spot allowed Bruner-Yang to partner with Johnny Spero to launch the ill-fated Suna, and he even began conceptualizing Maketto, a night market-inspired eatery. However, things took a turn for the worse in February 2012, when one of Toki's cooks, Thang Le, killed himself. The team persevered through the tragedy, and in March 2013, Bruner-Yang was nominated by Food & Wine for its "People's Best New Chef" award. In June, he married girlfriend Seda Nak, but things quickly went south for the couple when they were arrested just weeks later.

It turns out that one of the Chef's ex-girlfriends had posted some nasty comments about the two on Facebook. This resulted in a confrontation in which the newlyweds got into a scuffle with her as well as her fiancé at the time. In September 2013, both Bruner-Yang and Nak pleaded guilty to simple assault, and were sentenced to perform community service, undergo drug/alcohol treatment, and enroll in anger management classes (their records were eventually wiped clean). With the arrest behind him, the Chef continued work on Maketto, operating a "residency" at Hanoi House, and also ran a Toki Underground pop-up at Union Market. In March, he was again nominated by F&W for "People's Best New Chef," and even won DC's recent Cochon 555 competition.

Toki Underground Interior

Ironically, Toki Underground is actually situated on the second floor of The Pug (a dive-y sort of bar). The small, playful space was designed by Bruner-Yang and architect Michael Francis, and was largely inspired by the Chef's time overseas. The restaurant seats 25 in counter-style fashion (as is the trend in Asia), including a three-seater "chef's table."

Toki Underground Cocktail/Beer/Sake List

As for Toki Underground's menu, it features five variations on ramen, along with various add-ons and sides, changing specials, as well as multiple types of dumplings (pan-fried, fried or steamed). To imbibe, you'll find Asian soft drinks, vaguely Asian-y cocktails, beer from Asia, and a fairly extensive list of sakes (first complied by opening GM Scott Carde). Click for larger versions.

Toki Monster [$10.00] | Bulleit, Barenjager, Islay Scotch, Pork Belly Kushiyaki
I began with Toki's most popular cocktail. I'm sure its popularity has something to do with the skewer of pork belly that comes balanced on top, which imparts a salty, smoky savor to the drink that works surprisingly well with the heft of the whiskies, the peat from the Islay linking up especially well. I wouldn't have minded a bit more honeyed character from the Barenjager, though.

Miso 'Ricotta' Spring Salad

Miso "Ricotta" Spring Salad [$7.00] | Miso Tofu Ricotta, Liscari Sativa, Strawberry, Nasturtium, Hazelnut, Asparagus, Yuzu Vinaigrette, Roasted Garlic, Brown Butter Puree
My first dish was something of the lighter sort, a mélange of sweet, sour, bright flavors brought together by the earthy lushness of the miso tofu.

Dumplings - Pork (Pan-Fried)

Dumplings [$6.00] | Pork (Pan-Fried)
I had to try the dumplings of course, and according to my server, the one to get is the pan-fried pork. She was right on though, as the jiaozi were delicious, fried just the right amount and teeming with porcine goodness, the included sauce adding a bit of a kick on the back end.

Rheingold [$10.00] | Gewurztraminer, Yuzu, Honey, Fennel, Leopold Navy Strength Gin
My next cocktail featured Gewürztraminer, a pretty uncommon ingredient that lent a whisper of vinousness to the drink. The crux here, though, was the fennel, which made for an almost celery-like quality when paired with the other elements present.

Taipei Curry Chicken [$12.00] | Curry Infusion, Fried Chicken, Greens, Eggs, Pickled Ginger, Scallions, Sesame Seed, Nori
Given the supposed Taiwanese bent of the Chef's ramen, I went with the most Taiwanese-y of them all. It really was quite satisfying, the unmistakable essence of curry permeating the dish, bringing all the various elements together with its heady perfume. At the same time though, each ingredient still had its own voice, and I was particularly fond of the crispy nuggets of chicken, as well as how the nori and greens imparted an umami-rich, slightly astringent character to things that really punctuated the hearty flavors at play. The noodles were on point as well, coming in with just the right amount of bite and spring, and I eagerly supped up the remaining broth on this one.

Dumplings - Seafood (Steamed)

Dumplings [$6.00] | Seafood (Steamed)
Seafood dumplings arrived steamed. I was a fan of the texture on these, the skins remaining supple, yet with a bit of a bite to 'em. In terms of flavor, they were tasty enough, though they could've used a bit more brine, to really get those ocean-y notes to the forefront.

Pickles Plate [$5.00] | Sour Pickles and Kimchi
Given my penchant for all things pickled, this was a must-try for me. The kimchi was very nice texturally, with a fairly subtle, yet palpable touch of heat to it, while the pickles conveyed a smart mix of sweet-n-sour flair with a crunch.

Dumplings - Chicken (Deep-Fried)

Dumplings [$6.00] | Chicken (Deep-Fried)
My final order of dumplings had to be the fried type, this time with a filling of chicken. Texturally, the skins here were just what you'd expect from a deep-fried preparation, and the meat remained juicy and flavorful, a dab of the paired sauce serving as a fitting exclamation point to the dish.

Alt + F5 [$10.00] | Bombay Sapphire, Grapefruit Juice, Lemon Juice, Lemongrass Syrup, Orange Bitters, Angostura Bitters
The third and final cocktail of the evening brought together various ingredients to form a drink that looked like Orange Crush, and tasted not that far off from it. It had an intriguing, almost candied-like quality to it, backed by a bitter backbone and the zestiness of gin.

Fried Chicken Steamed Buns [$12.00] | Japanese Mayo, Sweet Chili Sauce, Pickles, Herbs
It seems like everyone's doing some sort of bao these days, and Toki's was a worthy contender to be sure. The chicken itself came delightfully crisp, loaded with plenty of sweet-ish, savory flair that worked beautifully alongside the comparative levity of those pickles and herbs. Wrap it all up in a bun, and you're good to go. Yum.

I'd been curious about Toki Underground ever since I first found out about it last year, and I'm glad I finally made it out. Unlike a lot of other people, I'm not a ramen aficionado, so I can't really compare Toki's to a lot of what's out there. I can say that the bowl I had was pretty damn tasty, and the rest of the food didn't let me down either. The cooking here may not be strictly traditional, but it works, and seems to be doing great for the restaurant. As for what's next for Bruner-Yang and company, he's still working on Maketto. James Wozniuk (ex-Lyon Hall) has been tapped to serve as CdC for the concept, a collaboration with clothing brand Durkl that will apparently have various night market-ish stalls that patrons can wander between. And if that wasn't enough, the Chef is expecting a baby, due to arrive in August, around the time that the new restaurant's slated to open.

El Condor Restaurant
3701 Sunset Blvd, Silver Lake, CA 90026
323.660.4500
www.elcondorla.com
Sat 05/17/2014, 08:05p-10:45p

El Condor Exterior

The Silverlake dining scene just got a little hotter with the debut of El Condor at the start of April. The restaurant takes over the site of the longstanding El Conquistador, which shuttered at the end of 2013 after 40 years in business due to an increase in rents. Taking El Conq's place is the newest project from the L&E Oyster Bar team of Dustin Lancaster, Tyler Bell, and Chef Spencer Bezaire. The trio's sticking with Mexican for this reboot, but the food's definitely got a more "cheffy" slant to it.

El Condor Interior

Fortunately, the new operators appear to have kept some of El Conquistador's charm. It's still a fun, festive sort of place (though not nearly as over-the-top), and they've even added a patio.

As far as El Condor's menu goes, think your classic sort of Stateside Mexican eats--tortas, taco, enchiladas and the such--but hopefully prepared and presented with a bit more care now. To imbibe, there's a small selection of wines from General Manager/Wine Director Francisco "Frankie" Almerella (ex-Bar Covell), a smattering of beer, as well as agave-centric cocktails from Bar Director Ellen Rehak (L&E, Largo, Bottega Louie, Bäco Mercat, Little Dom's, Bar Covell). Corkage is $10, but was graciously waved for our beers. Click for larger versions.

Chips and Guacamole [$9.00]
I arrived a tad late to the table, and my dining companions had already gotten started on the chips and guac. It was a damn tasty chips and guac though, the creamy lushness of the dip really lightened up by pricks of acidity while the perfectly crunchy chips added hits of salt to the combo.

Chips

Con Tres Salsas [$9.00] | Chipotle, Raw Tomatillo y Habanero Crema
More chips came out, joined by a trio of salsas. All three were unique in their own right. You had the smoky, slightly sweet chipotle; the creamy, sharply spicy habanero crema; and my favorite, the almost bracingly bright tomatillo.

Paloma

Paloma [$12.00] | Tequila Cabeza Silver, Grapefruit Juice, St. Germaine, Cynar, Soda
We had to get going on some cocktails of course, and the Paloma was a good one to start with. It was a lighter sort of drink, with a refreshing bittersweet quality to it intermixed with the weight of that tequila.

Oaxacan Old-Fashioned [$12.00] | Rye, Mezcal la Puritita Verda, Aperol
The Oaxacan Old-Fashioned, on the other hand, was a much stiffer sort of concoction, with your classic Old Fashioned flavors, but with a smokier undercurrent to it.

Papas Bravas [$6.00] | Spring Potato Confit, Smoked Paprika Mayo
Potatoes were lovely, hearty and satisfying little bites of papa that were smartly paired with their smoky, spicy condiment.

Ceviche

Ceviche [$24.00]
The evening's ceviche featured Dungeness crab and was a winner as well, the inherent sweet brine of the crustacean nicely conveyed against a backdrop of bright, acidic nuances. I loved the texture on that choclo as well, not to mention the crunch of those tostadas.

Queso Flameado con Chorizo [$14.00]
I was a fan of the queso flameado too, the combination of melty, gooey cheese and spicy, salty chorizo working beautifully alongside that tangy salsa. Taken with the included tortilla, it was utterly satisfying in an almost slutty sort of way.

Amor y Chile [$14.00] | Tequila Cabeza Silver, Mezcal la Puritita Verda, Ancho Reyes Liqueur, Lime Juice
Time for more cocktails. The Amor y Chile was pretty neat, showing off the sweet, spicy nature of the Ancho Reyes over a base of peppery, woody booze. Nicely integrated.

Bloody Bloody [$12.00] | Mezcal and Sangrita
The Bloody Bloody, meanwhile, was akin to a Bloody Mary, with your traditional flavors amped up by an extra helping of spice and the smoky smack of mezcal.

Carnitas Tacos [$10.00] | Chicharron, Salsa Verde, Radish, Spring Onion
Now, on to the tacos. Kicking things off was the carnitas, a tasty, unabashedly porky presentation that was really taken up a level by the inclusion of the crispy bits of chicharrón. Lovely use of the included greenery, too.

Pescado Tacos [$13.00] | Grilled Cobia, Cabbage, Adobo Aioli, Pico de Gallo
The fish tacos were also to our liking, the firm, flavorful cobia a fitting complement to the traditional accoutrements of pico and cabbage.

At this point, we moved on to beer that we brought, starting with a bottle of The Bruery Tumescence, a Bottle Logic collaboration saison brewed with Brettanomyces, herbs, mango, and raspberry. There was loads of tropical fruit on the nose, while the palate was more about the classic farmhouse character of the Brett, interspersed with a sticky underpinning of mango and spice. I'd never had a beer quite like it before.

Hongos y Huitlacoche Tacos [$12.00] | Spring Onion, Molcajete Salsa, Flor de Calabaza
In our next tacos, the duo of mushrooms and corn smut made for a smoky, earthy, umami-laced base of flavor, tempered by the zing of that molcajete salsa.

Chopped Salad [$13.00] | Roasted Corn and Peppers, Avocado, Black Beans, Queso Fresco
The salad was an unexpected hit, arriving light and fresh, yet with a surprisingly depth to it, the various elements all tied together by an enveloping acidity.

The next brew was the Mikkeller Mexas Ranger, an ale made with black beans, avocado leaves, chili, cocoa, almond milk, and various spices. There was a lot going on here, but it worked reasonably well with the cuisine, the chocolate, spice, and black bean nuances coming the most to the forefront.

Asada Quesadilla [$14.00] | Grilled Onion, Cheddar, Cilantro, Queso Fresco, Roasted Corn, Red Pepper, Salsa Borracha
We had to try at least one of the quesadillas, the this carne asada-filled version was one of the tastiest I've had, a cheesy, meaty mélange beautifully set off by the various veggies included.

Rojo con Asada Enchiladas [$14.00] | Roasted Piquillo Peppers, Jack Cheese, Queso Fresco
The red enchiladas were also on point, an elegant presentation of the traditional dish that masterfully paired the runny cheese and corn tortilla with delightfully rare cuts of steak.

Jamaica Tinga Tacos [$12.00] | Jamaica Tinga, Sour Cream, Adobo Salsa, Pepitas
Probably the most interesting of the tacos was the tinga, a preparation of shredded chicken in an immensely flavorful, earthy, spicy-smoky sauce, all tempered by a dollop of sour cream and some shredded veggies.

Our final brew was the Beachwood Barrel-Aged Jean-Quad Van Damme, by far the rarest beer that I'd ever gotten my mitts on. Only 100 bottles of this were produced, released exclusively at the brewery in Long Beach on May 13th. Thanks to its year-long aging in American bourbon barrels, this had tons, and I mean tons of intensely aromatic woody character on the nose. Taste-wise, think your classic malty quadrupel qualities, but with boatloads of coconut-y, caramel-y, vanilla-esque flavors. Very smooth, with its 14.5% ABV well-hidden; this was something special for sure.

Verdes con Pollo Enchiladas [$12.00] | Roasted Corn, Poblano Pepper, Jack Cheese, Queso Fresco
Compared with the red versions above, the green enchiladas displayed a brighter sort of flair, with a strong corn component that served as a great complement to the delectably charred shards of chicken here. Yum.

Pollo Tacos [$13.00] | Chicken, Raw Tomatillo Salsa, Cilantro, Roasted Pepper Crema, Pickled Onion
Last up were the chicken tacos, which showed off the goodness of the bird paired with the bright, tangy zip of its various accompaniments.

Here we see El Condor's very limited dessert menu, as well as the restaurant's late night selections. Click for larger versions.

Mexican Chocolate [$8.00] | with Crema & Wedding Cookies
Our first dessert comprised a bittersweet, almost spicy presentation of chocolate, evened out by the frosting-like crema.

Flan

Flan [$8.00] | with Mezcal Whipped Cream
The flan, meanwhile, was traditional in essence, but with the addition of mezcal cream adding a touch of smokiness to the dish.

I gotta say that I was pretty satisfied with El Condor. The food was basically like the type of old school Mexican cooking you'd expect to find in the States, but elevated with better ingredients, more exacting preparation, and more robust, more focused flavors as a result. They're not trying to do a modern interpretation of the cuisine, but rather, you could almost think of this as the old El Conquistador, but taken up a notch.

Aggio Restaurant
5335 Wisconsin Ave NW, Washington, DC 20015
202.803.8020
www.volt-aggio.com
Wed 06/04/2014, 06:05p-08:10p

Range/Aggio Exterior

When we last caught up with Bryan Voltaggio, he was still fresh off his second place finish on Top Chef and delivered a pretty outstanding meal at Volt's Table 21. Since then, the Chef has been hard at work growing his presence in the DC area. In 2011, he collaborated on a beer with Frederick's Flying Dog Brewery, competed in Cochon 555 (coming in behind Scott Drewno from The Source), and wrote a cookbook entitled VOLT ink.: Recipes, Stories, Brothers with brother Michael. Voltaggio also debuted a lunch spot called Lunchbox that December, and at the beginning of 2012, filled in for RJ Cooper at Rogue 24, all before opening his casual diner concept Family Meal in June.

December 2012 saw the launch of Range inside the Chevy Chase Pavilion, an expansive, 14,000-square-foot, 275-seat project featuring its own salumeria, raw bar, rotisseries, bakery, and multiple wood-burning ovens. This was followed up a month later by Civil Cigar Lounge next door, which features a menu designed by Voltaggio and actually prepared within Range. A dinner at the James Beard House in New York was next, as was another go at Cochon 555 (this time losing out to Mike Isabella) and yet another cookbook deal. Voltaggio competed on Top Chef Masters later that year, but ended up coming in second to Douglas Keane, formerly of Cyrus. In November 2013, Lunchbox shuttered due to lack of foot traffic, but just months later, Aggio was teased, and finally bowed on Valentine's Day earlier this year.

Opened in partnership with longtime compatriot Hilda Staples, the restaurant is something that Voltaggio had been thinking about doing for a while, a high-end Italian eatery with modern American influences. The Chef had always been unhappy with how the back room at Range turned out, and this dissatisfaction served as the impetus to install something else in the space. The two concepts share an entrance, as well as a kitchen, and in charge of that kitchen is Chef de Cuisine Johnny Miele, who's also Exec Chef and Pastry Chef at Range.

Aggio Interior

Range's back room was transformed into Aggio in a scant nine days. The space accommodates 80 diners, and can be used as a private event venue when the restaurant's not operating.

Aggio's menu features your typical Italian progression of starters, pastas, mains, and sides, all available à la carte. I opted for the six-course tasting menu though (composed of regular menu items), priced at $95pp, plus $65 if you want wine pairings from Sommelier Kathy Morgan. I veered toward cocktails this evening, which are the work here of barman Dane Nakamura. Click for larger versions.

Breadsticks arrived crunchy and coated with sprinklings of black pepper and sea salt.

Sammy Davis, Jr. [$13.00] | wild turkey 101 bourbon, ramazzotti, angostura bitters, ginger beer
I went with cocktails this evening, and my first was sort of a take on the classic Dark 'N' Stormy, a bittersweet, spicy concoction that was nonetheless refreshing thanks to the zip of ginger beer.

Aggio's signature amuse is a Parmesan funnel cake constructed of dehydrated, ground cheese dusted with pepper and sea salt. I found it a delightful little bite, a cheesy, crispy, unabashedly salty thing that was simultaneously whimsical yet delicious.

Bread comprised homemade focaccia, joined by a delectable mortadella spread with pistachio oil and a preparation of whipped ricotta with olive oil and lemon zest.

1: CHIOGGIA BEETS | beets that have been roasted in salt crust, dressed with tonnato sauce made from yellow fin tuna and bonito oil, radish and rocket leaves, grated bottarga and olive oil
The first proper course brought out an ingredient that has vexed me for some time now. However, this play on the classic dish of vitello tonnato really did make great use of beets. Texturally, they were spot on, and I really appreciated how their inherent sugariness was balanced by the earthy, fishy weight of the accompanying sauce, all while the greenery gave a great bitterness to the dish. Nice crunch from those pine nuts, too.

Peter Lawford [$13.00] | barhill gin, strega, barolo chinato, byrrh, lemon, egg white
This next Rat Pack-inspired cocktail was much to my liking, a showcase of bitter, sour, and herbal nuances underpinned by a subtle sweetness, the egg white adding a much appreciated levity and textural component to the mix.

LENTILS

LENTILS [$14.00] | charred octopus, calamari, sprouted wheat berries, agrodolce
My supplemental course comprised one of my preferred proteins, octopus. It was certainly tasty here, though I wish the kitchen would've pushed the char aspect further, to give the cephalopod more of that blackened savor. That being said, I loved the textural counterpoint from the squid, as well as how the wheat berries grounded the dish, making the zesty character of the agrodolce treatment really stand out.

2: ASPARAGUS | local green and white asparagus barely cooked in its own juice, sugo of favas and peas, smoked pecorino romano, smoked almond
My favorite dish of the night was probably the asparagus, the spears here perfectly cooked, their bitterness matched by the sweetness of the peas and the nutty quality of the fava beans. A light, bright, yet somehow profound plate.

Joey Bishop [$13.00] | espolon reposado tequila, campari, cappelletti, uncouth serrano lavender vermouth, fernet angelico
The Rat Pack theme continued on with my next cocktail, a sort of tequila Manhattan. This one had a bittersweet, viscous nature, the minty blast of the Angelico working hand-in-hand with the aromatics of the vermouth to form a fitting complement to the drink's base of tequila.

HALIBUT

3: HALIBUT | roasted with browned garlic and lemon thyme, puree of sunchoke, potatoes cooked in the style of risotto, olives that have been emulsified with their brine, meyer lemon pith and juices
Halibut arrived flawlessly cooked, a firm, flaky, utterly delectable presentation of the fish enhanced by the richness of the accompanying potato "risotto." My only gripe? The sweet-n-sourness of the Meyer lemon seemed unnecessary.

4: LAMB RAGU | whole wheat lumache with concentrated tomatoes, ragu is made from shenandoah valley lamb shoulders and the rendered aged fat, oak smoked pecorino
It just wouldn't be a proper Italian meal without pasta, and Aggio's did not disappoint at all. Incorporated into a tomato-based sauce, the deeply-flavored lamb was joined by a tempering sort of tartness, one that really permeated the ragu and made for a superbly integrated, satisfying plate. If that wasn't enough, the dollop of mustard leaf pesto on top imparted even more of a piquant counter to the dish, and I was a fan of the subtly smoky tint of the pecorino as well. Damn tasty.

5: WAGYU SHORT RIB | grilled over coals, farro cooked with saffron tea, bone marrow served as a custard, glazed turnips with wild flower honey, parsley and chips made from garlic
In my final savory course, short rib was cooked to a tender, yet still substantial consistency, though I wanted more of the lushness inherent in wagyu to shine. The cut wasn't as luxurious as I'd envisioned, though the richness of the bone marrow fixed that pretty quickly. Turnips were much appreciated for their tempering crunch and bitterness, and the farro really served as a lovely base to the dish as well.

The Chairman [$13.00] | bols genever, kina l'avion d'or, gran classico, Chablis, oak
A final cocktail to go with dessert. This one was thick, almost oily on the palate, with a sugary, yet astringent backbone and a slightly vinous nature that worked swimmingly alongside the smooth, richly-flavored genever.

6: PISTACHIO IN OLIVES | cake is made with the oil from castelvetrano olives, layered with pistachio cream, sorbet is the juice and flesh of cara cara oranges, crispy pomegranate, kumquats preserved in blood orange juice and moscato
The olive oil cake was probably the best I've ever had, coming out cool and dense, with a restrained undercurrent of olive-y goodness that worked beautifully with the various forms of citrus present. Yum.

Finally, mignardises comprised a Campari-grapefruit bonbon, an espresso chocolate truffle, a pomegranate-oolong bonbon, and a pistachio-yuzu chocolate. All were on point, though I especially enjoyed the bon-bon with the tea and pomegranate.

The style of food at Aggio was pretty much exactly what I was expecting from Voltaggio and company, an elegant take on Italian-inflected fare that combines the core of the classic cooking with a distinct sort of American modernity. It's a restaurant-within-a-restaurant worth checking out, with some of the most interesting Italianate cookery around. As for what's coming up next for Voltaggio, he's still working on an outpost of Lunchbox in Chevy Chase and another Family meal in Ashburn, VA, while Aggio 2.0 is slated to open in Baltimore on June 28th. Lots more to come.

Allumette Restaurant
1320 Echo Park Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90026
213.935.8787
www.allumettela.com
Wed 06/25/2014, 08:05p-11:25p

Allumette Exterior

Sadly, by the time you read this, Allumette will have likely closed its doors for good. The restaurant is serving its last meal on June 28th after roughly a year-and-a-half in business. Helmed by one Miles Thompson, Allumette started out as The Vagrancy Project, a pop-up first held at the Chef's Hollywood apartment and later at Bill DiDonna and Charles Kelly's Allston Yacht Club. Seeing Thompson's potential, the two gave him his own stage, turning AYC into Allumette, an ambitious project for Echo Park that debuted in January last year to considerable fanfare. The restaurant was well-regarded by the culinarily adventuresome set and critics alike, and picked up a slew of honors--Bon Appétit's 50 Nominees for Best New Restaurant in America 2013, Los Angeles Magazine's Top 10 Best New Restaurants of 2013, LA Weekly's 99 Essential Restaurants 2014, LA Mag's 75 Best New Restaurants 2014, Jonathan Gold's 101 Best Restaurants 2014--but apparently just never clicked with the neighborhood's clientele, who were ostensibly "more focused on cheap tacos."

As for Allumette's menu, it switched from à la carte to prix fixe back in February (though you could still order individual items at the bar). Diners get four courses for $45 or five for $60, with an additional $32 or $40 for beverage pairing, along with the option of a few snacks. Also to drink, you had a selection of wine from co-owner Charles Kelly, as well as cocktails by the talented Serena Herrick. Click for larger versions.

Blacksmith 1987 [$12.00] | Oolong Infused Elote Mezcal - Kumquat - Honey - Lime - Smoked Salt
Though we certainly planned to do the beverage pairings, we opted for a round of Herrick's cocktails to go with our snacks. The Blacksmith 1987 instantly appealed to me thanks to its inclusion of mezcal, and indeed, the smoky weight of the booze was put to good use here, melding beautifully with the sweet, floral, citrusy notes in the cocktail. Very well balanced.

Life's Rich Pageant [$12.00] | Blackstrap Rum - Dominican Rum - Sherry - Passionfruit - Cinnamon - Falernum - Lime
The Life's Rich Pageant, on the other hand, was a much more lighthearted cocktail, one teeming with sweet spice and fruit, resulting in a gluggable concoction that muted the rum quite handily. Almost candy-like at times.

POTATO CHIPS [$7.00] | Smoked Whitefish - Uni Cream - Chive
Our first of three snacks brought out some delightful bites of potato chip. The uni version was expectedly lush, with the richness of the roe working nicely alongside the chive, while the chip gave things a great hit of crunch. The whitefish, though, was even better, with the smoky brine of the commixture working gorgeously in concert with the inherent saltiness of the chips.

BABY TORPEDO ONION PANISSE [$8.00] | Meyer Lemon Mustard - Hibiscus - Cilantro
Cuboid fritters of onion really showed off the savoriness of the veggie in a fun, compact package, the mustard and cilantro adding a kick of offsetting piquancy to the mix.

POTATOES A LA PLANCHA [$6.00] | Furikake Aioli - Parmigiano-Reggiano - Katsuobushi
Potatoes were excellent, hearty and delicious alone, but really taken up a notch when eaten with the paired aioli, which imparted a fantastic depth of flavor to the tubers. Great zing from that mizuna on top, too.

Khaleesi [$12.00] | Capurro Pisco - Cherimoya - Aloe - Cacoa - Lemon - Agave
Apparently named after something from Game of Thrones (a fact that was initially lost on me, as I don't watch the show), the Khaleesi was probably my favorite cocktail of the night. I loved the incorporation of cherimoya here, with the fruit's sweet, sugary nature commingling beautifully with the aloe, the whole amalgam evened out by just the right amount of zip from the cacao.

Gentlemen's Breakfast [$12.00] | The Famous Grouse Scotch - Egg White - Lemon - Ginger - Honey - Candy Cap Bitters
The Gentlemen's Breakfast was something that I had on my last visit, and was a bit different than I remembered, probably due to the removal of Islay scotch from the equation. As a result, tonight's drink was much more ginger-forward, with the egg white and citrus serving to balance out its considerable spice.

Allumette's "bread & butter" continued to be some of the most intriguing I've had, comprising an utterly smoky, buttery, cheese-dusted grilled focaccia accompanied by an unabashedly luxurious mascarpone-potato "butter."

1a: CUCUMBERS - Apricot Fennel Compote - Ripe & Unripe Berries - White Chocolate
Brut N.V., Graham Beck, South Africa
Our meal proper commenced with a cucumber salad of sorts, and it was quite the sight to behold. The light, bright flavors of the veggie were proudly displayed, countered by the zesty greens while the berries imparted jolts of sweet-n-sour. By far the most interesting item was the white chocolate, which provided a sugary heft to the dish, but which also seemed to simultaneously intensify all the other flavors at play. Very neat.

1b: PRAWN - Vinegar Meringue - Rice Paper - Tokyo Negi
Cider, Anthem Hops, Wandering Aengus Ciderworks
The prawn, meanwhile, arrived just rare enough, and loaded with char goodness to go along with its innate brine. I loved the spiciness of the crispy yuba skin, while the meringue added a tangy, creamy character to the plate.

2a: SUMMER SQUASH - White Corn Fondue - June Garlic Miso - Sage
Sauvignon, Erste + Neue, '12, Alto Adige
The squash was some of the best I've had, with a great crunch and savor to it that meshed flawlessly with the various accoutrements. I was especially a fan of the fried sage leaves.

2b: ARROWTIP SQUID - Pistachio Ponzu - Cherry - Black Mint
Vermentino di Gallura, Piero Mancini, '12, Sardegna
Another standout was the squid. The cephalopod itself showed off a lovely char, but the crux was the pistachio-cherry-mint combo, which gave up a sharp, sweet, nutty flavor profile that I'd never encountered before with squid. Lovely astringency and crunch from the onion, too.

Strega Genesis [$12.00] | Strega - Dolin Dry - Fennel - Cardamom - Lemon - Lime
Given that we were all children of the 80's/90's, we naturally couldn't resist a cocktail named the Strega Genesis. Think loads upon loads of fennel on this one, amplified by the herby, spicy smack of the Strega.

3a: OCTOPUS - Za'atar Yogurt - Okra Caviar - Plum
"Plum Rush" Cocktail
Octopus came out sticky and salty, an in-your-face presentation of the ingredient that really called for the moderating effect of the dish's various elements, making for one well-integrated bite. I was especially fond of the asparagus and cool, minty greens here.

3b: KING SALMON - Soured Celtuce - Radish - Beet Syrup
Koshu, Chateau Mercian, '12, Japan
Salmon was cooked to a flaky, near gelatinous consistency, its strong salinity perked up by the sugary beet syrup while the celtuce and radish imparted a touch of levity to things.

4a: BRANZINO - Shellfish Tapioca - Fried Broccoli - Lemon
Chardonnay, Koehler, '12, Santa Ynez
The branzino was excellent, arriving super moist, super briny and with a wonderfully crisp skin to boot. I found it delicious on its own, but the astringency of the broccoli and the tempering tapioca really made the dish sing.

4b: PORK COLLAR - Pho Charcoal - Eggplant Mayonnaise - Pickled Wasabi
Logsdon Organic Farmhouse Ales, Seizon
In our last savory course, rare cuts of pork were brazenly smoky, their boatloads of porky goodness balanced out near completely by the blast of sour heat from the 'sabi. Very cool, especially when taken with the aromatic, anise-y spice of the pho-inspired "charcoal."

Shemingway Daiquiri [$12.00] | Avuá Cachaça Prata - Amontillado Sherry - Grapefruit Syrup - Maraschino - Lemon
A couple cocktails to pair with dessert. The Shemingway Daiquiri was a worthy take on the classic drink, its fruity, tropical nature underscored nicely by the weight of the sherry and cachaça.

Last Ango [$12.00] | Angostura Bitters - Smith & Cross Rum - Orgeat - Pineapple - Lime
Another repeat from last time, the Last Ango was just as I remembered, a masterful blend of sweet, cinnamon-y spice countervailed by the bitters and Smith & Cross.

5a: TOASTED BARLEY POT-de-CRÈME - Feuille de Brick - Strawberry - Rosemary
Amaro Meletti
Time for dessert. Allumette's pot de crème was one of the strongest I've had, its toasted barley and feuille de brick giving up a familiar, yet unidentifiable flavor profile that I really enjoyed, especially when taken with the sugary strawberry.

5b: LEMONGRASS BAVAROIS - Hibiscus - Oat - Tangerine
Rosenhof, Welschriesling, '06, Burgenland
The bavarois, finally, was a winner as well, a mishmash of sour, sweet, floral and aromatic nuances grounded perfectly by the oat.

It's been great to see Thompson's cooking progress over the past couple of years. His food's better than ever now, a more mature, more understated expression of his style that's nonetheless imbued with a palpable blend of thoughtfulness, complexity, and novelty. It's sad to see this place go, but I guess it was really a case of having the wrong concept--a concept ahead of its time--for the space. I do sincerely hope that the Chef manages to wind up somewhere else in the City. Allumette, you'll be missed.

Fiola Restaurant
601 Pennsylvania Ave NW, Washington, DC 20004
202.628.2888
www.fioladc.com
Fri 06/06/2014, 06:10p-08:05p

Fiola Exterior

I followed up my meal at Aggio with another Italian dinner, this time at Penn Quarter's Fiola, a modern upscale trattoria concept from Chef Fabio Trabocchi that's quickly become one of the top spots for Italian in the City. It's a place that I'd been curious about for over a year now, so I wanted to make it out this go around, since it'll probably be the last time I visit DC for a while.

About the Chef: A native of the Marche region of Italy, Fabio Trabocchi was born in the town of Osimo in 1974. He grew up near the Adriatic in a food-centric family, his father tending to a farm and instilling in his son a strong appreciation for cooking. The younger Trabocchi was already quite competent in the kitchen by the time he turned eight, and by fourteen, had started culinary school at the Instituto Alberghiero Panzini in Senigallia. During his tenure there, he staged at Riccione's Grand Hotel des Bains, then apprenticed at the Michelin three-star Ristorante Gualtiero Marchesi in Milan when he was 16. After graduating in 1991, Trabocchi made his way to Ristorante Ja Navalge in Moena, becoming sous at the one-star Michelin restaurant. Then, in 1994, he was named Chef de Cuisine at the Byblos Club in Rimini, and later went on to open an Italian supper club in Moscow. Following, Trabocchi made his way Stateside, landing in DC, where he was head chef at Bice Ristorante. He later moved to the south of Spain, opening another outpost of Bice in the Puente Romano Hotel in Marbella. From Spain, the Chef went to London to help launch Grissini at the Park Hyatt, then transitioned to Floriana, where he won "Best Young Chef" in the 1999 Carlton London Restaurant Awards.

The next year, he was tapped by the Ritz-Carlton to conceptualize Maestro, a high-end Italian eatery at the chain's Tyson's Corner location. It debuted in 2001, and easily became one of the top restaurants in the area, scoring multiple four-star reviews from local publications. In addition, Trabocchi was named one of "America's Best New Chefs" by Food & Wine in 2002, and received James Beard nods for "Rising Star Chef" in both 2003 and 2004. 2005, meanwhile, saw a Beard nomination for "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic," as did 2006, when he finally won. Trabocchi also released his cookbook that year--Cucina of Le Marche: A Chef's Treasury of Recipes from Italy's Last Culinary Frontier--but would leave the restaurant by August 2007. His destination was New York, and he ended up partnering with Steve Hanson's BR Guest Hospitality to take over the kitchen at Fiamma Osteria, where Michael White got his start. Trabocchi's tenure there was largely successful, earning the restaurant a Michelin star in 2009, but the Chef departed that same year, landing at NYC's Four Seasons. However, his stint there only lasted three months, and he was out by early January the next year. He then started consulting for Villa Pacri, but moved back to DC at the start of 2011.

Fiola, the Chef's first solo project, thus debuted in April that year with Miles Vaden as EC (since replaced by Justus Frank), Jason Gehring on pastry, and Adrian Reynolds (ex-Mozza) serving as Wine Director. Despite a couple middling reviews at the start, the restaurant was warmly received by the District's denizens, and was quickly deemed one of the country's "Best New Restaurants" by John Mariani in Esquire. This was followed up in March 2012 by semi-finalist status in James Beard's "Best New Restaurant" prize, and in August, a nod from Bon Appétit as one of the magazine's top 50 new restaurants. The success of Fiola got Trabocchi thinking of expanding, and in October that year, he revealed plans for the seafood-centric Fiola Mare, which was quickly followed by the announcement of Casa Luca (named after his son) in January 2013. A family-friendly, casual osteria type place, Luca debuted that July with Erin Clarke at the reins, and was soon named one of the "Best Restaurants in America" by GQ. Georgetown's Fiola Mare, meanwhile, bowed in February this year, and is headed by Blue Duck Tavern and Vidalia alum John Melfi.

As for Fiola's menu, there are a lot of ways to dine here (too many, probably), but I focused my attention on the standard dinner selection, which gives you the option of various à la carte choices, as well as tasting menus of both four and six courses. I went with the sixer naturally, priced at $105pp (with an optional wine pairing at $85). In addition, you'll find worthwhile cocktails, and a commendable selections of wine, mostly Italian naturally. Unfortunately, corkage is rather hefty at $50, with a maximum of two bottles, and is unavailable on Fridays and Saturdays. Click for larger versions.

Fiola

Fiola [$14.00] | Sobieski Vodka, Lavender, Vanilla, Lime, Club Soda
I went with cocktails this evening, and started with Fiola's signature concoction. It was a refreshing way to kick things off, a fitting accompaniment to DC's summer-y weather with its lighthearted mix of sweet vanilla and floral lavender flavors, all perked up by a hit of tangy lime while the club soda imparted an effervescence to it all.

Chickpea Fritter, Porcini, Clam

My first amuse was a chickpea fritter, atop porcini cream and finished with clam, a fun start to the meal with the nutty taste of the garbanzo nicely paired with the earthy mushroom, the clam adding a touch of piquancy as well as a textural counterpoint to the dish.

The next, much more substantial gift from the kitchen brought out a troika of Stellar Bay oysters, large, plump, meaty bites with a clean, mild brine that worked swimmingly alongside accoutrements of limoncello, EVOO, and espelette. Tasty.

Bread, meanwhile, was a homemade focaccia drizzled with olive oil.

1: Maryland Jumbo Lump Crab, Manila Clams, Amalfi Limoncello Granita, Sturgeon Caviar
In my first proper course, sweet, lush crab was smartly paired with the salty blast of caviar, the limoncello and microgreens imparting a much appreciated zestiness to the mix. Also key was the clam, which gave up a much needed crunch and hit of ocean-y savor toward the back end.

2: Maine Lobster & White Asparagus Crema, Kumamoto Oyster
Lobster arrived crunchy and slightly chewy, its sweet, saline flavors nicely tempered by the cream of asparagus while the greenery provided a perfect jolt of astringency. I didn't get much from the oyster, though.

3: Agnolotti of Suckling Pig, Golden Chanterelles, Bonati Parmigiano
The agnolotti was a winner, the pasta's filling of pork just teeming with piggy, herbaceous, aromatic goodness, the mushrooms adding further heft to the dish.

L'Imprevisto [$16.00] | Green Chartreuse, Mint, Lemon, Simple Syrup, Ginger Ale
My next cocktail was also quite appropriate for the season, a light, bright mélange of minty, citrusy, and gingery notes underpinned by a subtle medicinal tinge from the Chartreuse.

4: New Frontier Bison Striploin, Foie Gras, Black Truffle, "Rossini"
Bison was prepared alla Rossini, meaning that it was cooked in a red wine sauce and served with foie gras and truffles. It was classic in essence, yet much more contemporary in execution, the liver adding a much-needed luxuriousness to the quite lean meat. My favorite thing here, though, was the use of broad bean, which offered up a well-placed brightness to the admittedly hefty dish.

5: Blu di Capra Cheese, Black Mission Figs, Romesco Purée, Almonds
It was nice to see a more composed cheese course for a change, and the Blu di Capra here showed off a restrained sort of funkiness that made sense with the sugary figs, but went even better with the zip of romesco.

Amore Agrodolce [$16.00] | Greenhook Ginsmiths Beach Plum, Amaro Nonino, Hibiscus
For my last cocktail, I went with something a bit more "dessert-y," the drink showing off plenty of sweet, fruity, floral notes, moderated just enough by the bitter, herby nature of the Nonino.

6: Fiola Strawberry Tart
I ended with what one of my servers described as the "best part of the meal," and he wasn't too far off, with the tart conveying multiple facets of strawberry, the fruit's signature sweetness displayed in multiple forms and textures, bounded together by a crunchy, brittle crust. One of the best tart-like desserts I've had.

Petit fours comprised a coconut-strawberry pâte de fruit and a pistachio-butter cream macaron.

Overall, quite a delightful meal here at Fiola. Trabocchi's cooking leans toward more traditional, but with just enough of a progressive twist. It's a polished, yet somehow rustic style that works, and makes me wish that I'd visited Maestro during the Chef's days there. For Italian in DC, this place certainly needs to be part of the discussion.

Faith and Flower Restaurant
705 W 9th St, Los Angeles, CA 90015
213.239.0642
www.faithandflowerla.com
Wed 05/21/2014, 08:05p-10:40p

Faith & Flower Exterior

One of the most buzzed about Downtown debuts of late is Faith & Flower, set in the old Towne space at the bottom of WaterMarke Tower. Named after the current and historical name of its cross street Flower, the project was first announced last August, and is the work of the Coastal Luxury Management group (they're responsible for Pebble Beach Food & Wine and Los Angeles Food & Wine) and local restaurateur Stephane Bombet (of Mo-Chica, Picca, and Paiche fame). The restaurant bowed at the end of March, and features the cooking of LA neophyte Michael Hung.

About the Chef: A New Jersey native, Hung started out in New York, quitting culinary school to stage at places such as Daniel and Marcus Samuelsson's Aquavit. In 2005, he moved to San Francisco, finding employment at Traci Des Jardins's lauded Jardiniere before transitioning to Bacar and The Lark Creek Inn, later returning to Jardiniere as sous. During this period, he also worked on Pixar's award-winning Ratatouille as a consultant, joining the likes of Thomas Keller and Guy Savoy.

In March 2011, Hung was tapped by Tak Matsuba to replace opening chef Seiji Wakabayashi at Bushi-tei, but was out the following February after the restaurant was put up for sale (it ended up closing that April). The Chef launched Red Sparrow, a pop-up dining series, soon thereafter, and landed the Chef de Cuisine gig at Roland Passot's Michelin-starred La Folie in July. He also attended the University of San Francisco concurrently around this time, graduating with a Master's in Fine Arts with a focus on fiction before joining the team here at Faith & Flower in December 2013.

Joining Hung in the kitchen is Sous Chef Huy Nguyen (Josef Centeno, LudoBites 10, Ray's and Stark Bar, Jardiniere and Social Kitchen & Brewery in San Francisco, Waterloo & City, The Mercantile, Abacus in Dallas, Grace). Co-opening sous Michelle Minori (Flower + Water, Il Cano Rosso, Acquerello, La Folie, Aqua, all in the San Francisco Bay area) has since left the restaurant.

The menu at Faith & Flower features Chef Hung's semi-rustic, Cal-global cooking in a variety of formats. Lunch and brunch are also on offer, too, if that's your thing. Click for larger versions.

As for the drinks, you'll get a pretty decent selection of beers, a wine list by Wine Director Jared Hooper (Hakkasan, The Royce, Noir Food & Wine), and intriguing-sounding cocktails crafted by Chief Mixologist Michael Lay, who also worked at CLM's Rose. Rabbit. Lie. in Las Vegas and Restaurant 1833 up in Monterey. Click for larger versions.

DAILY SELECTION OF ½ DZ OYSTERS [$18.00] | G.P. Pink Peppercorn Mignonette
We went the oysters to start, which comprised two each of three varieties: Kumamoto, Kumiai, and Grassy Point. All of 'em were on point--clean, fresh, shell-free--and went swimmingly with a dash of that bracingly peppery mignonette.

DUNGENESS CRAB TOAST [$16.00] | Jicama, Pickled Sea Beans, Green Goddess Aioli
Crab toast was delightfully sweet, augmented by the fruitiness present, and paired just swell with the lushness of avocado and green goddess. The toast, meanwhile, formed a fitting base to the course, though I would've liked a bit more punch of acidity.

HARRY WINSTON [$14.00] | Nikka 12yr Japanese Whiskey, King's Ginger, Kuro Sato, Teapot Bitters, Flamed Orange Peel
Of course I had to give the cocktails a go, and this first one fit the bill nicely, a strong, yet smooth and sophisticated drink that smartly layered notes of ginger over a bittersweet, boozy backdrop.

DEVILED JIDORI EGGS [$6.00] | Korean Chili, Kimchee
Given my penchant for deviled eggs, these were a must-try, natch. Think of your traditional flavors, but amped up by the funky, spicy kick of gochujang and kimchi.

EGGS BENEDICT PIZZA [$16.00] | Smoked Bacon, Spinach, Hollandaise Sauce
A classic Eggs Benedict comprises bacon, eggs, and Hollandaise atop an English muffin, and this pizza-fied version nicely captured the essence of the original. You had the combo of egg, creamy Hollandaise, and salty bacon, which was satisfying in its own right, but the addition of spinach provided a great, countervailing astringency to things that really brought it all together.

DUCK LIVER MOUSSE TARTS [$6.00] | Grenadine Candied Onions
Duck liver was deftly presented here, its rich, yet restrained character dutifully evened out by the sweet-n-sour crunch of candied onions, all while the pastry did an admirable job in moderating the entire bite.

OXTAIL AGNOLOTTI [$17.00] | Bone Marrow Butter, Tangerine Salsa, Beef Tendon Chicharrones
This next plate came highly recommended by our server, and he was right on the money. The actual pasta was as tasty as you'd expect thanks to the use of oxtail, but it was the combination of bright, tangy salsa and crunchy, salty chicharrón that really took this dish to the next level, forming perfect accoutrements to the agnolotti.

MONTANA CLUB [$14.00] | Grohusko - Jack's Manual 1908; Marie Duffau Bas Armagnac Napoleon, Carpano Antica, Fernet Branca, Absinthe, Currants, F&F Aromatic Bitters
My next cocktail also veered toward the robust side, this one really offering up a multifaceted presentation of herbal, astringent, almost medicinal nuances set against contrasting sweet, nutty tones.

BACON WRAPPED PORK TENDERLOIN [$17.00] | Grilled Over Mesquite, Country Ham Gravy
Cooked a touch rare, just how I like it, the pork impressed, giving us a slightly smoky, slight "hammy" sort of savor that was further enhanced by the salty strips of bacon here. Very tasty, though the crunchy slivers of nuts on top didn't quite seem necessary.

SEARED RED ROCK COD [$16.00] | Calçot Onions, Fennel, Saffron Bouillon
Red rock cod was delicious, a firm, hearty filet beautifully paired with the zest of calçots and fennel, the saffron broth adding an enveloping, aromatic component to the mix.

VAUDEVILLE [$12.00] | Square One Botanical Vodka, Lemon, Raspberry Gum, F&F Aromatic Bitters, Rosemary, Italian Meringue
My final cocktail made great use of vodka, the spirit setting the stage for a bevy of sweet, sour, and herbaceous notes on the palate. I was quite the fan of the frothiness here, too.

SAUTEED MONTEREY CALAMARI [$9.00] | Moroccan Spiced Vinaigrette, Grilled Sourdough
Squid was snappy and springy to the bite, and well-spiced to take advantage of the calamari's inherent brine. I wasn't quite sold on the use of sourdough as a base here, though.

WARM ENGLISH PEAS and GOLD BEETS [$8.00] | Smoked Sheep's Milk Ricotta
The combo of peas and beets was surprisingly effective, sort of forming a sweet, yet slightly nutty flavor profile that linked up well with the creaminess of that ricotta.

SEARED BRANZINO [$23.00] | Marinated Rock Shrimp, Blood Orange Bearnaise
Loup de mer did not disappoint either with its wonderfully crisp skin and flavorful flesh. The fish easily stood alone, but I much appreciated the inclusion of rock shrimp here as well, not to mention the zip of the citrus-y Béarnaise.

RIBEYE

RIBEYE [$38.00/12 oz] | Grilled Over Mesquite, Vermouth and Oyster Jus
Our final savory brought out a rib eye, grilled over mesquite, which gave the meat a smoky quality that worked hand-in-hand with the inherent goodness of the beef. The steak was tasty just by itself, but the inclusion of an oyster-y jus did add just a touch more potency to the fold.

Time for some sweet stuff. Desserts here are the task of Executive Pastry Chef Ben Spungin (Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley, Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, The French Laundry), while day-to-day operations are handled by Pastry Chef Indelisa Zarate (also from Bernardus and Post Ranch, no relation to Ricardo). Click for a larger version.

HAZELNUT CHOCOLATE FEULLEITINE [$8.00] | Chocolate Cremeux, Toasted Meringue, Caramel
Our first dessert brought together the winning combination of chocolate and hazelnut, a sweet, nutty mélange balanced by the use of scorched meringue.

GOAT YOGURT PANNA COTTA [$8.00] | Yuzu Granite, Puffed Wild Rice, Honey, Blackberries
The panna cotta, meanwhile, really showed off a sour, lactic sort of tanginess, one offset by the use of honey and blackberry. I was a big fan of the puffed rice here as well, which imparted a great crunch and hint of savoriness.

Russian Absinthe Service

To conclude our evening, we were presented with the restaurant's "Russian style" absinthe service, deemed the "Leap of Faith." Our server Camden proceeded to pour some La Fée into a glass, set it aflame, and stream the glowing liquid atop a tumbler containing root beer before capturing the remaining vapors in the glass. We were then instructed to use a straw to inhale said vapor before taking a swig of the absinthe-root beer combo. It actually worked out surprisingly well, the aromas of absinthe really enhancing the sweet, refreshing, anise-laced beverage.

Faith & Flower Check Box

The presentation of the evening's bill was certainly one of the schmancier versions I'd seen.

I initially approached Faith & Flower with a bit of trepidation. Given Coastal Luxury Management's background, I was afraid that the place would tend toward overly corporate-y. Perhaps Bombet helped temper some of that, because I was actually quite happy with the cooking here. Hung's style can be described as Cal-rustic with some global influences, which is not uncommon these days, but there's a certain je ne sais quoi to the food that managed to satisfy while retaining a bit of accessibility. My dining companions were similarly impressed, and I'm certain that this place will have no problem outlasting its predecessor.

Doi Moi Restaurant
1800 14th Street NW, Washington, DC 20009
202.733.5131
www.doimoidc.com
Sun 06/08/2014, 05:35p-07:05p

Doi Moi Exterior

To follow up two Italian dinners at Aggio and Fiola, I paid a visit to Doi Moi ("renovation" in Vietnamese, more or less), one of the latest debuts on 14th Street's restaurant row. It's the third collaboration between restaurateur Mark Kuller and Chef Haidar Karoum (after Proof and Estadio), a Southeast Asian-inspired place that pays homage to the cooking of Thailand and Vietnam.

About the Chef: Karoum is a northern Virginia native, and grew up with a keen interest in food after traveling throughout Europe with his family. After high school, he attended the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, externing at Michel Richard's vaunted Citronelle prior to graduating in 1995. He then took a position on the line at Gerard's Place in DC, but later returned to the CIA to attain a bachelor's degree in culinary management. In 1998, he took on a sous chef role at Nora Pouillon's longstanding Restaurant Nora in Washington, eventually rising to the rank of Chef de Cuisine. Pouillon then tapped Karoum to take over the kitchen at sister restaurant Asia Nora in 2000, which is where the Chef got his first taste of Asian cookery. He would stay there until January 2007, when he left to start work on the wine-centric New American concept Proof with partner Mark Kuller, a prominent tax attorney and bon vivant.

Proof was a hit, and in 2009, Karoum was deemed a semifinalist for James Beard's "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" award. The success of the restaurant allowed the duo to debut Estadio, a Spanish eatery, in July 2010. More accolades soon followed, and Estadio was given a nod from Beard as a semifinalist in their "Best New Restaurant" category. Not content with just a pair of restaurants, the two started work on a Southeast Asia-focused joint, and even undertook an eating tour of the region in August 2012, logging over 100 meals in Thailand and Vietnam in three week's time (they'd hit up places in Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Portland as well a year earlier). Doi Moi, thus, bowed in August 2013, and once again, Mr. Beard came knocking, naming Karoum a semi-finalist for "Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic" earlier this year.

Doi Moi Interior

Interestingly, the 5,0000 square-foot, 135-seat restaurant spans two buildings--one old (the area with the glass facade and the 16-seater bar, pictured above), one new--and the entire space was penned by Griz Dwight, who also did Proof and Estadio. There's also a basement, which houses related cocktail bar 2 Birds 1 Stone.

Doi Moi's menu features an array of small plates from both Vietnam and Thailand, but the current selection clearly leans toward the latter, Northern and Isan styles in particular (though the original vision was actually supposed to be more Viet-heavy). Meanwhile, Kuller son's Max serves as Wine Director here, and has put together a surprisingly lengthy list of eclectic varietals to go with the food. Cocktails, of course, are a big deal as well, and Bar Director Adam Bernbach has a nice array of Southeast Asian-inspired creations on offer, along with a handful of beers, too. Click for larger versions.

Gin & Green Apple Soda [$12.00]
For my first cocktail, I wanted something super refreshing, and this fit the bill nicely, with the sweet-tart nature of the apple hitting me first, backed up by the herby, aromatic qualities of the gin, the whole commixture suitably effervescent.

Phla Hoi Chell / Sliced Raw Scallops [$15.00] | chilies, lime, lemongrass, crispy garlic, cilantro
My meal started off with a bang thanks to these scallops and their clean, subtle flavors, which were complemented, yet not dominated by the sour-spicy-funky accoutrements present. Very nice, with a sharp, lingering heat.

Kai Dao / Fried Duck Egg [$6.00] | jasmine rice, garlic, red chilies, fish sauce
A singular duck egg arrived wonderfully runny, its lushness coating the rice admirably. The key here, though, was that fish sauce, which imparted a tart, earthy quality to the dish that really evened out the richness of the yolk. Quite tasty when all mixed together.

Sai Grok / Grilled House Made Sour Isaan Sausage [$12.00] | ginger, chilies, shallot, peanuts, cabbage, cucumber, pickled garlic
Sai krok isaan was restrained in its sourness, with a great counterbalancing char character. Taken with its various accompaniments, the sausage made for a gorgeous mix of contrasting flavors and disparate textures that really satisfied.

Tamarind Soda & Peanut-infused Bourbon [$12.00]
Next up was perhaps Doi Moi's most well-known cocktail, and it didn't let me down. I loved the sweetness and spice of the tamarind here, and how that played with the restrained notes of peanut and booze, making for a super balanced drink overall.

Som Tam / Green Papaya [$10.00] | snake beans, peanuts, lime, tomatoes, tamarind, chilies, dried shrimp
The classic som tam was well represented here, a crunchy, bright course tied together by the tang of tamarind as well as a creeping bit of heat that built slowly on the palate.

Cha Ca La Vong / Sablefish will Dill & Turmeric [$17.00] | vermicelli noodles, green onion, dill, peanuts, crispy garlic, nuoc cham, chilies
My main was a take on the signature dish of Hanoi's La Vong Restaurant, which I'd first encountered not long ago at Portland's Pok Pok. The sablefish came deftly prepared, with its fatty, flaky flesh duly accented by the piquancy of turmeric, though I would've liked more char savor on the fish. Balancing things out was the bright, minty zip of the greenery present, while the vermicelli grounded all the flavors. Lovely crunch from the peanuts as well.

Bizzy Izzy - Rye, Oloroso Sherry, Lemon & Pineapple [$12.00]
My last drink satisfied as well, with its great combo of fruity pineapple and nutty sherry making for a fitting counterpoint to the whiskey, the lemon adding a sour exclamation point to it all.

Khao Phat Puu / Blue Crab Fried Rice [$17.00] | garlic, crab paste, white pepper, lump crab, spring peas
The evening's final savory was Doi Moi's take on crab fried rice. The essence of the crustacean was forcefully presented here, its sweet, saline flavors on proud display, tempered only slightly by the other elements in play. Very tasty, though I just wish that the grains of rice were firmer.

Mauk Noun Vanh / Lime & Yuzu Custard [$7.00] | coconut cream, malted peanuts, sesame cookie
I ended with a delightful little dessert, one with a base of tangy custard that melded superbly with the sweetness of coconut, all while the combination of peanuts and sesame cookie gave up a great mix of nutty, crunchy nuances that rounded out the custard perfectly.

I was quite satisfied with my meal here at Doi Moi, and the place really seems like a great addition to the District's dining scene. Though I'm still a bit wary of having both Thai and Vietnamese cooking under one roof, the food really managed to work things out for the most part. The plates may not be totally "authentic" (and I don't really like that word), but the core, the quintessence of the cuisine is certainly here--you can taste it, and it tastes pretty damn good.

Bourbon Steak Los Angeles
237 S Brand Blvd, Glendale, CA 91204
818.839.4130
www.michaelmina.net/restaurants/southern-california/bourbon-steak-los-angeles/
Sat 05/24/2014, 08:10p-11:30p

Bourbon Steak Glendale Exterior

Despite his dozens of properties around the country, Michael Mina has never had a solid presence here in Southern California. Sure, he operates Stonehill Tavern down at the St. Regis in Dana Point (where Joshua Skenes worked prior to Saison), and there was of course the ill-fated XIV (where we first got to know Steven Fretz and Jordan Kahn), but that's been the extent of it. It's especially surprisingly since LA is where the Chef got his start, beginning his career under George Morrone inside the kitchens of the Hotel Bel-Air. As such, I was a bit surprised last April when Mina announced that he was opening a branch of his Bourbon Steak concept at Rick Caruso's Americana at Brand shopping center. The restaurant bowed at the end of March, and joins five other BS outposts in Detroit, Miami, Scottsdale, Washington DC, and San Francisco.

About the Chef: Running the kitchens here on a day-to-day basis is one Joseph Conrad. Conrad worked various industry positions in his younger years, and also attended the University of Iowa from 1994 to 1996. In 1998, he relocated to California, and found work as a banquet chef at the Embassy Suites Hotel San Diego Bay, where he stayed for two years. He later transitioned to a sous position at Aqua Blu, then went to Rainwater's on Kettner and following, Dublin Square (where he had his first Exec Chef role), all while pursuing a liberal arts degree from San Diego Mesa College. In 2002, Conrad decided to pursue a formal culinary education, and moved up north to attend the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco.

After graduating in 2003, he cooked at the vaunted Charlie Trotter's for a brief period, then returned to SF. There, he headed up the kitchen at Azie until 2005, then cooked at 415 Restaurant & Bar. In 2007, Conrad settled in Seattle, becoming Executive Chef of Qube and later starting an artisanal sea salt company ("Secret Stash Sea Salts") with partner Janna Wemmer. He then took the reins at both Twist and its sister restaurant Ventana in October 2008, working there until the middle of 2010. Next, he served as CdC at Jason Wilson's James Beard-winning Crush, also in Seattle, but left in September 2012 to join the Mina Group as Chef de Cuisine of RN74, under David Varley, where he stayed until coming down to run Bourbon Steak.

Bourbon Steak Glendale Interior

Bourbon Steak's AvroKO-penned, 182-seat space looks like a proper steakhouse, replete with lots of wood, brushed metal, neutral colors, tufted seating surfaces, and yes, even a live piano player. Interestingly though, there's a grab-and-go type patisserie out front selling various pastries and Lamill coffee.

As for Bourbon Steak's menu, you'll find your typical steakhouse staples, joined by some more unconventional fare as well. In terms of steak, there are no less than five different types, including three pricey wagyu options. Click for a larger version.

To drink, there's a healthy, red-leaning wine list put together by Rajat Parr, a smattering of beer, and a pretty serious cocktail program (pictured above) that veers, unsurprisingly, toward whiskies. They even do smoked bourbon flights and Japanese whiskey ceremonies tableside. Click for larger versions.

Duck Fat Fries

After being seated, we were quickly presented with a complementary trio of duck fat French fries. Going front to back, we had a heartily-spiced pastrami version with a sweet 'n' sour barbeque sauce, a cheesy Parmesan prep with creamy Caesar aioli, and a tangy pickle-spiced presentation with pickle ketchup.

Tlaquepaque [$12.00] | Barrel-Aged, Espolon Reposado Tequila, Crème de Pêche, Angostura Orange Bitters
We of course had to give the cocktails here a go, and started with a threesome. This tequila-based one showed off loads of citrus on the nose, while the taste was nicely balanced, the sweetness of the peach really evening out the potency of the Espolon.

Vieux Carré [$12.00] | Rye, Cognac, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Benedictine, Bitters, Lemon
The restaurant's take on New Orleans' iconic Vieux Carré was pretty classic, a well-integrated presentation with a pleasantly bittersweet, citric tinge.

Avantgrand [$12.00] | Barrel-Aged, Bank Note 5yr Scotch, Laphroaig, Amaro Averna, Crème de Banana
I'm quite the fan of Laphroaig, and my favorite cocktail of the troika displayed the spirit's signature smokiness, tempered by the comparatively mild flavor of the Bank Note, the banana imparting a great countervailing sweetness to the fray. Lovely peat finish here, too.

Bourbon Steak's sole bread offering was a delightful truffle butter bun. Truffle, salt, butter--can't go too wrong with that.

Oysters on the Half Shell [$36.00/dozen] | Champagne Mignonette
Oysters made for a natural start to the meal. Kusshis were on offer tonight, and they were as clean, crisp, and briny as you'd want, great either alone or with a dash of that mignonette.

Kampachi Belly [$14.00]
Kampachi was superb, wonderful texturally and showcasing robust nuances of fat and brine that paired beautifully with the dish's yuzu-based dressing.

Duck Spring Rolls [$12.00] | Ginger-Chile Dipping Sauce, Mint, Cilantro
Spring rolls were fun, crisp, savory, Asian-y little bites, the tasty shards of duck playing well with the brightness of cilantro and mint while the included condiment offered up a hit of acidity to bring everything together.

Darker & Stormier [$12.00] | Fizzy-Lifting, Vizcaya Rum, Domaine de Canton Ginger, Grapefruit, Lime, Fernet Branca
Our second round of cocktails got started with Bourbon Steak's version of the traditional Dark and Stormy. It was a weightier concoction compared to the original, with a refreshing fizz to it joined by ginger-y overtones and an almost medicinal undercurrent to it that I wasn't quite sold on.

Number 1 (Lavender Mist) [$12.00] | Death's Door Gin, Tempus Fugit Kina L'Avion D'or, Lavender-White Pepper Syrup, Lemon, Absinthe
A play on the Corpse Reviver #2 was up next. I rather liked it, the gin working swimmingly alongside the citrus-y, slightly herbal nuances in the drink, the Kina l'Avion d'Or adding a great bittersweet depth to things.

The French Gentlemen [$12.00] | Fizzy-Lifting, Landy Cognac, Yellow Chartreuse, Asian Pear, Domaine de Canton Ginger, Lemon, Anise
Our last cocktail actually shared some common threads with the Darker & Stormier above, with similar textures and notes of ginger. This one had a spicier quality to it though, with a more subdued medicinal character and a palpable bitterness on the finish.

Japanese Wagyu Shabu Shabu [$58.00/2 Oz] | Dashi, Miso, Watermelon Radish
A shabu-shabu presentation of A5 wagyu made quite the impression, both visually and in terms of taste. The beef was as slick and fatty as you'd expect, delicious after a five second dip in dashi broth, and perfectly accompanied by the lightness of the enoki, greens, and radish, all finished by pin points of salt toward the back end. Once we finished up the meat, we eagerly supped up the remaining liquid, imbued with the earthy potency of mushroom and miso.

Hamachi & Tuna Poppers [$16.00] | Crispy Rice, Ponzu, Ginger Dressing
The so-called "poppers" were probably the most uninteresting of the items we had, but were still tasty enough, the yellowtail showing off noticeably more depth and character compared to the tuna versions, the rice on both offering up a sticky, crispy counterpoint.

English Pea Agnolotti [$18.00] | Maine Lobster, Spring Onion, Meyer Lemon
The agnolotti was a surprise standout, the bright, green, sugary notes of pea really shining through, joined by the sweetness of lobster, the onion adding a fantastic crunch and kick of piquancy on the close.

Octopus a la Plancha [$18.00] | Romesco, Fingerling, Lemon, Almonds
Octopus was also quite enjoyable with its supple, yet substantial bite, great char astringency, and satisfying savor, finished smartly with the tanginess of olive-romesco while potatoes grounded the dish.

With the steak about to hit the table, we opened up a bottle of red wine, specifically the Copain Syrah 'Brosseau', Chalone 2007 [$92]. It stood up nicely to the meat; think aromas of dark berry, more on the palate, along with spice, savor, and a pleasant acidity.

Steak Setup Plate

Garnished plates for our steaks were a nice touch.

Steak Platter

Japanese Wagyu [$512.00/16 Oz] | Miyazaki A5 Striploin
American Wagyu [$50.00] | Center-Cut Flat Iron 10 Oz
Australian Wagyu [$58.00] | Kansas City Strip 16 Oz
Prime Black Angus [$48.00] | N.Y. Strip 12 Oz
We ordered four steaks and requested that they be pre-cut for us, though we didn't expect them to arrive in such an impressive presentation. Going clockwise from bottom-right, I began with the Miyazaki wagyu, and it was unmistakably Japanese, the cut being noticeably fattier, oilier, and more luxurious than its peers. Appropriately tender, it just oozed fat and bovine goodness, perked up just a smidge by a lovely bit of char. Real deal wagyu is something that everyone should experience at least once (if for nothing else than to have a basis for comparison against more common steaks). Next was the American wagyu flat iron, which was probably the best version of flat iron I've tasted, displaying a great beefy savor and nice amount of fat to boot. It only suffered because of a slight bit of toughness, which is just inherent to the cut. The Aussie wagyu Kansas City strip, meanwhile, was the most balanced cut, and my choice if I had to eat an entire 16-ounce steak. It had the most finesse to it, and boatloads of flavor along with a good amount of fattiness, too. I ended with the Angus New York strip, a benchmark steak, but one that simply paled in comparison with the wagyu varieties here. It was tasty enough, but just couldn't compete when it came to either marbling or depth of flavor.

Black Truffle Mac & Cheese [$9.00]
Along with the steaks came a trio of sides. The truffle mac was great texturally, and appropriately cheesy, though I wanted a more apparent truffle character.

Delta Asparagus with 7 Treasures [$9.00]
An Asian-y prep of asparagus was really quite nice, the bright bitterness and crunch of the veggie working beautifully with the sweet-n-salty lap cheong and mushrooms.

Jalapeño Creamed Corn [$9.00]
Creamed corn, finally, proudly conveyed the inherent sweetness of the kernels, moderated by a Southwestern-esque spice.

As for Bourbon Steak's dessert menu, it's pretty much what you'd expect from a steakhouse. Nothing fancy, but approachable and satisfying. Click for a larger version.

Mascarpone Cheesecake [$8.00] | Bing Cherry Sauce, Meyer Lemon Curd, Vanilla Bean Crust
Cool and dense, the cheesecake gave up a lactic tanginess that played well against the sweetness of cherry while the crust crumbles added a much-appreciated textural contrast.

Butterscotch Toffee Pudding [$8.00] | Salty Caramel Sauce, Warm Madeleines, Confectioner's Sugar
Butterscotch was unabashedly sugary, with an almost boozy tint to it, a fitting companion to the madeleines. Just try to scoop up the pudding without breaking the cakes.

Lemon Scented Olive Oil Cake [$8.00] | Market Strawberries, Sicilian Pistachio, Soft Whipped Cream
An olive oil cake was moist and just savory enough, working hand-in-hand with the combination of whipped cream and strawberry.

Sazerac

Sazerac [$12.00] | Rye, Absinthe, Peychaud's Bitters, Angostura Bitters, Lemon
Along with dessert, we had Bourbon Steak's Sazerac, a classic preparation showcasing citrus-y and bittersweet nuances over a base of whiskey, with the absinthe adding a whisper of anise to the mix.

Bacon Caramel Donut [$6.00]
Bacon and caramel formed a great interplay of salt and sugar, but the doughnut was on the dense, dry side.

Michael Mina's Signature Root Beer Float [$9.00] | Warm Chocolate & Pecan Cookies, Sassafras Ice Cream
The root beer float was a fun way to close out the meal, with its pointedly spicy, ginger-y character working beautifully with the ice cream. The cookies, meanwhile, were on point as well, making for a nice play on a childhood favorite.

Finally, some caramels to accompany the bill.

Going in, I didn't have terribly high hopes for Bourbon Steak, given its location in a shopping center, in Glendale. The place definitely delivered though, serving up a classic steakhouse experience with a few unexpected flourishes that made the meal all the better. It certainly represents a valiant return to LA for Michael Mina, and the team here, led by Joseph Conrad, should be commended as well. Bourbon Steak's more than a worthy addition to the steakhouse scene here in the Southland, and compares no doubt favorably to the top players in the game.

Two Amys Pizzeria
3715 Macomb St NW, Washington, DC 20016
202.885.5700
www.2amyspizza.com
Tue 06/10/2014, 07:30p-09:15p

2Amys Exterior

On my recent DC trip, I made it a point to include a meal at the District's most iconic pizza joint. The history of 2Amys starts with Peter Pastan, the chef/owner of Dupont Circle's longstanding Italian eatery Obelisk, which he opened back in 1987. Given the success of Obelisk, Pastan partnered with Ruth Gresser and launched Pizzeria Paradiso next door in 1991. The place was a huge hit, and remained the City's benchmark for pizza for almost a decade.

Pastan ended up selling his share in Paradiso in 2001, and teamed with Obelisk sous Tim Giamette to debut 2Amys that same year. The Cleveland Park restaurant was named after the duo's wives (Amy Pastan and Amy Morgan), and set itself apart by achieving D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) certification from the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, which meant that the place was turning out legit, O.G. Neapolitan pizzas. It quickly became the new standard. Giamette ended up leaving 2Amys in 2006, and passed away in 2009, leaving Morgan as a partner in the business, but the restaurant has been chugging along ever since, serving up the City's most sought after pies.

2Amys Interior: Dining Room

Inside, things are light and bright, with lots of wood. It's nothing too distinctive, but seems like the right type of vibe for the food.

As for 2Amys' menu, the pizzas are the stars here, with the three D.O.C.-allowed varieties joined by the restaurant's own unique creations. Stuffed pizze ripiene (calzones, basically) are also on offer, as are a smattering of salads and an appealing array of antipasti-like small plates. Be sure to check out the specials as well. Click for larger versions.

To drink, you get a decently-sized, reasonably-priced, Italian-centric wine list, Italian-leaning cocktails, and some interesting Italian beers that you don't see very often at all. Click for larger versions.

Barbara Bush [$9.00] | Bombay Sapphire gin, Strega, Sparkling Falanghina, house-made orange bitters
Speaking of those cocktails, I started out with the curiously-named Barbara Bush, a refreshing, bubbly concoction filled with bittersweet, medicinal notes over a backbone of gin aromatics.

Deviled eggs with green sauce [$4.95]
Being the deviled egg fiend that I am, these were a must try, a classic, delectable interpretation of the dish tarted up by the inclusion of that piquant caper- and garlic-laced parsley pesto, which managed to accent, but not overwhelm the lushness of the eggs.

Salt cod croquettes [$7.75]
The baccalà, meanwhile, was utterly delightful, a spot on presentation of the fish's salty, yet elegant qualities in a wonderfully crisp package. Perhaps even better with a squirt of lemon.

Potato frittata [$5.95]
The frittata was akin to a tortilla española, a tasty, hearty mass of well-textured potato, tied together by a web of egg. The accompanying sauce (which tasted of tomato and red pepper) wasn't even strictly necessary for me.

Polpette di bollito [$8.45]
Here, I had polpette of long-cooked brisket, the beef's tender, bovine character matched by the crispness of the meatballs' exteriors, the accompanying pesto-like sauce imparting a hit of zestiness to the mix.

Spring Spritz [$9.00] | homemade strawberry gin, Sparkling Falanghina, homemade mint-rhubarb syrup, rhubarb bitters
Keeping with the light, refreshing theme, my next cocktail was the Spring Spritz, a laudable take on the traditional drink with a delicious interplay of sweet strawberry and rhubarb flavors underscored by a vinous touch.

Porchetta di testa [$6.00]
My final app was a sort of rolled head cheese. Sliced super thin, the porchetta was a delight texturally, and was just teeming with loads of porky, peppery goodness, the arugula providing a counterbalancing zestiness to offset it all.

Margherita [$12.95] | Tomato, mozzarella di bufala, basil
And now, on to the pizza. Naturally, I had to start with the basic margherita variation, which--like all the other pies here--is baked in 2Amys' 600-degree wood-burning oven. It was a classic pie by all accounts, the sauce of San Marzano tomato adding a bit of zip to the combination of creamy buffalo mozz and fragrant basil. The crust, meanwhile, was properly leopard-spotted and charred, quite flimsy in the middle, but featuring substantial edges that were fluffy and chewy, with a bit of crispness to boot.

Black Cherry Soda [$9.00] | homemade cherry vodka, Aperol, soda
For my final cocktail, I went with the Black Cherry Soda, which uses housemade cherry vodka crafted by 2Amys' longtime manager Debbie Johnson. It was delicious, and quite something, tasting not quite of cherry, but of Chinese suan mei with its tart, sour, slightly astringent nuances.

Puttanesca [$13.95] | Tomato sauce, rapini, fresh mozzarella, garlic, anchovy, hot pepper
I had to give 2Amys' more non-traditional pies a go as well, and this one, done alla puttanesca, was certainly a winner. The key here was the balance between the bitter broccoli raab and fishy anchovy, all over a base of lush mozzarella, the pepper adding a subtle undercurrent of heat to the fray.

Roasted asparagus, fontina, guanciale, egg and parsley [$14.45]
Finally, I made a point to try one of the special pizzas of the day, and it did not let me down one bit, with the salty guanciale well played against the astringency of charred asparagus, the runny egg adding a palpable bit of luxuriousness to the pie. Yum.

Homemade ice creams and sorbets [$5.95]
I closed with a trio of 2Amys' housemade ice creams and sorbets. The vanilla was a quintessential presentation of the flavor, while the snickerdoodle ice cream satisfied in its own way with its beautiful tinge of cinnamon. The orange-Campari sorbet, on the other hand, was almost bracing, with a citrus-y taste taken up a notch by the bitter smack of the liqueur.

Having little to no experience with the DC pizza scene, I'm not quite qualified to say that 2Amys serves up the best pies in the District, though the popular consensus seems to say that it does. That being said, I did enjoy my meal here. The pizzas were commendable to be sure, a good showing for the Neapolitan style, but the various small plates were totally on point as well. I can certainly see why this place is so popular.

Superba Food and Bread
1900 S Lincoln Blvd, Venice, CA 90291
310-907-5075
www.superbafoodandbread.com
Sun 06/22/2014, 08:20p-11:25p

Superba Food + Bread Exterior

The latest entrant into Paul Hibler's American Gonzo Food Corp debuted on April 11th, joining the ranks of East Borough, Superba Snack Bar, Pie Society, and Pitfire Artisan Pizza. Superba Food + Bread is an all-day eatery, a bakery-cafe-coffee bar-wine bar-dinner spot all jammed together in a building that used to house an auto body shop. Envisioned all the way back in 2012, this place was supposed to be helmed by Jason Neroni from the original Superba (who's since decamped), but nowadays, Littlefork's Jason Travi's in charge. He's joined in the kitchen by Pastry Chef Lincoln Carson (former corporate pastry chef for Michael Mina) and head baker Jonathan Eng (Le Pain Quotidien).

Superba Food + Bread Wines by the Glass & Beer

The restaurant features no less than six menus: breakfast, lunch, weekend brunch, afternoon, dinner, and bakery. We were here, obviously, for dinner, and the carte was filled with the sort of modern-rustic-seasonal cooking that you'd expect from Travi. To drink, you get a reasonably-sized wine list, some beers, as well as coffee from Stumptown Roasters. Click for larger versions.

I ended up bringing my own beers this evening (corkage was waived), starting with the oft-bandied-about, hard-to-find Logsdon Peche 'n Brett, a saison brewed with, as the name would imply, peaches and Brettanomyces. This was a pretty cool one, with loads of sweet, juicy stonefruit on the nose, though less on the palate, where the Brett character really shined with its funky, herby qualities, the whole thing finishing dry.

sweet pea [$9.00] | creme fraiche, bacon gelee, pea tendril
Superba features a wide selection of various bruschetta-esque "toasts," and the pea version was a nice way to kick things off, the inherent sweetness of the vegetable really commingling well with the tangy spread of crème fraîche while the greenery gave up a light, bright crunch to things. Interesting hit of salt, too, from the bacon jelly.

avocado

avocado [$7.00] | pickled fresno pepper, radish sprouts, sea salt
I think the consensus was that the avocado toast was our favorite of the bunch. The key here was how the lushness of the avocado paired with the slightly astringent character of the sprouts, all while sea salt and Fresno adding contrasting jolts of salt and heat to the mix. Great integration with the actual bread here, to boot.

prime rib [$12.00] | horseradish, asparagus
Our final toast was a special this evening, and featured prime rib paired with its traditional accompaniment of horseradish, with asparagus contributing a counterbalancing bit of bitterness and crunch. Quite tasty.

For my next beer, I went with an IPA, the Noble Ale Works TBA Showers (TBA because the hop varietal used, HBC366, hadn't been given a name yet--it's now known as Equinox). The fifth entrant in Noble's highly desirable series of limited production single hop beers, I found it a great example of the style, with plenty of hop bitterness intermixed with juicy notes of citrus and tropical fruit, the whole shebang underpinned by a subtle malt character.

figs + prosciutto [$18.00] | black mission figs, american prosciutto, burrata, balsamic
Moving on into the starters now, the classic combo of figs, prosciutto, and cheese was done justice here, a mishmash of sweet, salty, sour flavors tied together by the richness of that burrata. I liked the levity imparted by the frisée here, too.

rabbi's day off [$8.00] | not-so matzo balls, chicken broth
A take on the traditional matzah ball soup really was classic in essence (even though the balls were composed of cheese, breadcrumbs, and lard), with robust flavors of chicken to pair with the fluffy, float-y spheres.

little gem lettuce [$12.00] | shaved vegetables, green goddess, bread crumbs
A salad of little gem was a surprise standout, the crisp, crunchy shards of lettuce going quite well with the breadcrumbs here, all while the green goddess dressing served to tie everything together.

Bottle #3 was something that I'd been trying to get my hands on for a while, The Bruery Windowsill, a one-time-only, oak-aged bottling done in collaboration with KCRW's Evan Kleiman. Inspired by rhubarb-raspberry pie, this one smelled of tart berry flavors and tasted of it as well, with a bready, funky quality to balance things out. Very neat, and a very drinkable sour beer.

fried chicken [$20.00] | (slightly spicy) biscuit, collard green slaw
Superba features a list of nightly suppers, and Sunday's was fried chicken, so you know we had to oblige. It was a laudable presentation of the American classic, the bird coming out appropriately tender, succulent, and crisp, with a great bit of spicing to it. Lovely biscuit, too.

broccolini [$9.00] | 63 degree egg, roasted garlic, piquillo harissa
In our first side, broccolini was smartly paired with egg and harissa, the bitterness of the veggie serving as a fitting base for the runny egg and piquant pepper. I wish they would've included more of the tender florets though, as certain parts here were on the chewy side.

seared arctic char [$22.00] | snap pea, rhubarb, mint
Char was cooked to a spot-on, semi-rare temperature, its fatty, flavorful flesh perfect played against the light, bright, crunchy zing of the greenery

crispy cauliflower [$8.00] | j.g. sauce
Cauliflower was pretty delectable, showing off a mouth-watering savor that obviated the needed for any of that accompanying sauce. I would've liked a touch less batter on them, however.

porchetta [$26.00] | sweet + sour apricot, fingerling potato, crispy skin
Porchetta was as fatty and luxurious and in-your-face porcine as you'd expect, tempered only slightly by the hearty cuts of potato present. The best part? Those crunchy bits of chicharrón.

padron peppers [$8.00]
A special side tonight, fried Padróns conveyed plenty of sweet-hot heat to round out the savory portion of our meal.

For our final beer, I went with something more "dessert-y," the Terrapin Side Project #22 Orange Chocolate Weizenbock. The chocolate was strong in this one, joined by expected malty, spicy notes and just a whisper of aromatic orange overarching everything.

superba candy bar [$9.00] | marcona almond, chocolate, sea salt
Time for some sweet stuff, and of course we had to begin with Superba's signature dessert, a long cuboid comprising a sort of chocolate mousse wrapped in dark chocolate glaze and topped with Maldon, marcona, and housemade pop rocks. It was an interesting study in disparate elements that did manage to come together into something cohesive, and tasty. This is the one to get.

apricot tart [$7.00]
An apricot tart was delightful, really displaying the juicy goodness of the stonefruit against a backdrop of floral lavender notes.

vanilla caramel [$9.00] | custard, orange, aperol
Can't go too wrong with the combo of vanilla, caramel, and citrus. I actually got a little bit of orange creamsicle on this one as well. Particularly good when taken with the Terrapin.

butterscotch tart [$7.00]
A rich butterscotch tart had some Macallan folded in there if I recall correctly. Great contrast between the toffee-esque flavors here and the buttery crust.

pavlova

pavlova [$9.00] | farm strawberry, basil meringue, whipped cream
We closed out the night with the restaurant's take on the classic pavlova, an updated example that brought together the winning combination of strawberries and basil, the whipped cream adding a bit more luxuriousness to the dish.

Though I can't really comment on Superba Food + Bread's daytime activities, I left quite pleased with dinner service. There was a nice range of cooking on display here, and the food was actually more elegant, nuanced, and multifaceted than I thought it'd be. Another win for the neighborhood, and another feather in Mr. Hibler's cap it seems.

On the evening of Saturday, August 2nd, Project by Project will be hosting its 12th annual tasting benefit, Plate by Plate. PbP is a national 501(c)(3) non-profit centered around issues relating to the Asian-American community. Each year, the group chooses a particular theme to focus on, and partners with a charitable organization in that space. This year's theme is mental health, with the partner being Pacific Asian Counseling Services, a local nonprofit that provides culturally-sensitive, language-specific counseling to immigrant families. As always, the upscale tasting will showcase the talents of some of LA's top restaurants, as well as alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages from a variety of leading purveyors. After three years at Downtown's Vibiana, this year's event will be held at the Petersen Automotive Museum in the Miracle Mile. To get an idea of what Plate by Plate is like, be sure to check out my report from last year's event.

.EATS(31).

Alimento

Barbershop Ristorante

Jonathan Club (Sally Camacho)

Lexington Social House

.VIP(3).

.DRINKS(21).

Bundaberg Brewed Drinks

Los Angeles Ale Works

Tickets are currently on sale at $150 for general admission. However, I'm giving away a pair of VIP tickets (giving you access to the preview hour and VIP lounge), valued at $250 each. In past giveaways, I've asked contestants to leave a comment with a brief blurb about what they're looking forward to most about the event. However, this year we're attempting to better make use of social media, so we'll try something different. Here's what needs to go down:
On either Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter (pick one), post something about this giveaway, for example, "I just entered for a chance to win two VIP tickets to @ProjectbyProjectLA's Plate by Plate! Check out platebyplate2014.eventbrite.com." Be sure to include the Eventbrite link and the proper PbP tag (@ProjectbyProjectLA for Facebook, @pbpla for Instagram, @pbpla for Twitter).
Leave a comment here with: (a) your name, (b) an email address to reach you, and (c) a link to your post above (be sure to make it a public one).
Please submit entries by noon PDT on July 24th. We'll select the best one (hopefully you can come up with something more creative than my example above) and announce the winner Friday. Good luck!

Estadio Restaurant
1520 14th St NW, Washington, DC 20005
202.319.1404
www.estadio-dc.com
Thu 06/12/2014, 05:40p-07:10p

Estadio Exterior

Given that I'd visited Doi Moi just days prior, I thought I'd give its Logan Circle predecessor a go. Opened in 2010, Estadio ("stadium" in Spanish) is the second restaurant from Chef Haidar Karoum and Mark Kuller. The place serves up Northern Spanish cuisine--specifically focusing on the Basque and Catalan regions--as interpreted by Karoum and Chef de Cuisine Ruffino Bautista (an alum of both Proof and Asia Nora). Estadio was a hit right from the start, garnering a "Best New Restaurant" semi-finalist nod from James Beard in 2011, and also winning the "Best New Restaurant" Rammy from the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington that same year. Since then, it's remained a fixture on the DC dining scene.

Estadio Interior

Penned by Grizform Design, Estadio is a festive sort of place rendered in warm tones and Spanish tile, iron, and reclaimed wood. Think old school charm with new school kick.

As for Estadio's menu, you get a long list of small plates meant for sharing--pintxos, tapas, raciones--joined by a nice array of cheeses and charcuterie. To pair with the food, you'll find a pretty decent beer list, low proof-y type mixed drinks from Bar Director Adam Bernbach, as well as a lengthy list of mostly Spanish wines managed by Wine Director Max Kuller. Click for larger versions.

Tanqueray 10 Gin & House-made Elderflower Citrus Tonic [$12.00]
The Spanish are quite the fans of the G&T, and this refreshing, reworked version was a fine start to the meal, with its sweet, citrus-y flavors pairing well with the aromatics of the gin.

House Made Country Pâté with Pistachios & Cherries [$11.00]
A combination of cherries and pistachios added some fruity, nutty notes to Estadio's take on pâté de campagne, though I really wanted it to be more in-your-face porcine, with a grittier, less gelatinous consistency. It was still pretty tasty though, especially when taken with the combo of cornichons, mustard, and arugula.

Boquerones [$5.00]
Boquerones were delightful, the fishy, yet elegant savor of the anchovies proudly conveyed, set off by their treatment in vinegar and the lushness of olive oil.

Deviled Egg Stuffed with Ensaladilla Rusa [$3.00]
I had to give the huevo relleno a go, natch, and it turned out to be one of the best I'd had in a while, the tangy, celery-laced potato salad working beautifully with its base of egg.

Croquetas de Jamón, Pickled Cucumbers [$8.00]
Croquettes of ham were appropriately rich, creamy even, and were tasty, though not all that interesting. Great use of the crunchy, piquant pickles, however.

Tortilla Española, Alioli, Sweet Hot Peppers [$10.00]
Estadio's version of the traditional tortilla española was one of the best I've had. You had the expected, utterly satisfying combo of egg and potato of course, but the sweet heat of the red pepper, along with the creaminess of the alioli, really took things to a higher level.

El Cid

El Cid [$10.00] | Spanish Brandy, Cointreau, Rye, Lemon, Pineapple
My next cocktail was also a winner, displaying a great interplay of flavors between the brandy, whiskey, and orange liqueur, everything underscored by a fruitiness from the lemon-pineapple combo.

Grilled Octopus, Potato-Caper Salad & Pimenton [$13.00]
Octopus was well-prepared, arriving tender and with a lovely bit of char savor to go along with its inherently saline flavors. What took this over the top, though, was the incorporation of that potato salad, which imparted both crunch and acidity to the dish that really evened out the pulpo.

Rhode Island Calamari a la Plancha & Salsa Verde [$12.00]
Sticking with the cephalopod theme, the squid was also on point, supple yet with a bit of bite, and loaded with focused, bitter char flavors that played well with the zesty salsa verde.

Grapefruit, Bourbon, Amontillado [$9.00]
My final cocktail of the evening was one of Estadio's so-called "slushitos," and indeed, the drink arrived pleasantly slushy, a cooling, fun concoction showing off a delectable balance of citrus and sweet-spicy flavors.

Sautéed Pea Shoots, Olive Oil & Sea Salt [$8.00]
Pea shoots were quite nice, their bright, bitter qualities moderated by the incorporation of sea salt and olive oil. Nice crunch on those shoots, too.

Bacalao Crudo, Jalapeño, Avocado, Orange & Olive Oil [$11.00]
I don't think I'd ever had salt cod in crudo form, so I thought I'd give it a shot. Think meaty-yet-tender slices of fish, with an ingrained saltiness and a palpable finesse, effectively countered by its various accoutrements, the jalapeño in particular forming a fitting foil.

Sherry Float, Vanilla Ice Cream, Housemade Maraschino Cherry [$9.00]
Despite being rather full by this point, I had to try at least one dessert. The sherry float didn't let me down, giving up all the classic goodness of the traditional treat, but with the additional gravitas of sherry. Loved those crunchy bits, too.

Chalk Estadio up as another successful venture from Karoum and Kuller. Save for a few nits, the food was really quite good, classic in essence, but with the Chef's liberties well incorporated, and the drinks delivered as well. I'll have to give Proof a go next time I'm in town...

Trois Mec Restaurant
716 N Highland Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.462.1344
www.troismec.com
Thu 07/10/2014, 08:00p-10:45p

Trois Mec Exterior

In terms of the biggest debuts of 2013, I think Trois Mec pretty much has to be right at the top. Indeed, over the past year, this joint effort between Chef Ludo, Jon Shook, and Vinny Dotolo in the old Raffallo's Pizza space on the outskirts of Hollywood has become perhaps the most of-the-moment, "LA" restaurant here in the City, and has picked up almost every award and honor possible: Esquire's Best New Restaurants 2013, Los Angeles Magazine's Top 10 Best New Restaurants of 2013 (#1), GQ's 25 Best New Restaurants in America 2014 (#2), LA Weekly's 99 Essential Restaurants 2014, LA Mag's 75 Best New Restaurants 2014 (#2), and Jonathan Gold's 101 Best Restaurants 2014 (#8).

As such, Trois Mec is rightfully one of the hottest tickets in town, and I do literally mean tickets, which are required to be purchased ahead of time, a particular wrinkle that has made it somewhat difficult for me to come back here. Nevertheless, after some careful planning and coordination, I was able to return to see how the place had progressed. As for the staff, Douglas Rankin's still running the day-to-day as Chef de Cuisine, but General Manager Ashley Ragovin decamped a while back (she was last seen at Superba Food + Bread), replaced by Adam Vourvoulis (ink, Mozza, Church & State).

As for Trois Mec's menu, it's still five courses plus snacks at $96.47 a head, which covers the base price of $75 plus 18% service and tax. A beverage pairing is offered at $49pp (or $79 for a "reserve" variant and $25 for a non-boozy one); in addition, the wine list has been expanded with greater depth and breadth, and there are even beer options (perhaps thanks to Vourvoulis, who's partial to brews). Sadly however, corkage is still not allowed. Click for a larger version.

Snack #1: Buckwheat Popcorn
NV Domaine Belluard, Ayse, Vin de Savoie
We started with what has become Trois Mec's signature snack, a wonderfully crispy, crunchy, utterly savory buckwheat "popcorn" balanced by the zing of rice wine vinegar.

Snack #2: Herb Tart
NV Domaine Belluard, Ayse, Vin de Savoie
Next was an herb tart with pistachio, a miniature salad of sorts teeming with bright, summer-y flavors set against the dish's nutty, buttery crust. Nice lingering tartness on this one to boot.

'Tater Tot'

Snack #3: "Tater Tot"
NV Domaine Belluard, Ayse, Vin de Savoie
Trois Mec's "Tater Tot" comprised tapioca, passion fruit, and Parmesan, a winning combination to be sure that combined the lush, salty cheesiness of the Parm with the delightfully gelatinous-yet-crisp texture of the tapioca, the whole thing underpinned by a modicum of sugary fruit. Damn good.

Snack #4: Garlic Bread
NV Domaine Belluard, Ayse, Vin de Savoie
The restaurant's take on garlic bread was a pretty much flawless bite, an amalgam of unabashedly buttery and char flavors set off by a countervailing touch of sharpness that satisfied in the basest way possible.

Snack #5: Dijon Crème Brûlée
NV Domaine Belluard, Ayse, Vin de Savoie
Our "dessert" snack was crème brûlée infused with Dijon, which showcased the classic sweetness of the dish initially, but which also finished with the distinct heat of the mustard. I much appreciated the perfectly caramelized top on this one, too.

1: Fluke, peas, umeboshi, lime
2008 Hervé Villemade, Les Petit Acacias, Cour Cheverny
The meal proper commenced with what probably amounted to the best fluke dish I'd ever tasted. The fish itself was spot on, an ideal base on top of which the various, disparate thrusts of savory, sugary, tart, and bitter could really shine. I was especially fond of the texture and sweetness on those peas, as well as the subtle spice of what I believe were poppy seeds. A pretty awesome interplay of flavors going on here overall, and my favorite course of the evening.

2: Tomato pulp, charred eggplant, jamón ibérico de bellota, smoked tomato
2012 Mas Nicot, La Valiere, Coteaux du Languedoc
Following was the most polarizing course of the night (and certainly not the prettiest). You had boatloads of smokiness up front, which then led to the juicy sweetness of tomato, and finally the salty depth of the ham, which really underscored the entire dish. It was a combination that worked for me, but didn't quite jive with a couple of my dining companions.

3: Radish, burnt bread, fromage blanc, furikake
2013 Domaine Brazilier, Coteaux du Vendômois
Brined and roasted radishes were crunchy and bitter, just what I'd want. They paired beautifully with the lushness of the accompany fromage blanc while the burnt bread sauce imparted an overarching smokiness to the entire experience. Some lovely umami notes from the use of furikake, also. Another standout for me.

Supplement: Corn, bone marrow, nettle salsa verde, whiskey [$12.00]
2010 Gérard Duplessis, Chablis, Premier Cru, Montmains
Trois Mec now offers the option of a supplementary course for the entire table, and obviously, we had to oblige. The corn was suitably sweet, really showing off the nature of the kernels in a comforting, satisfying manner while the marrow added additional luxuriousness to the fray. The crux here, though, was the combo of nettle and cilantro, which really did a fantastic job in imparting a bright, zesty quality to the entire dish. A table favorite.

4: Veal belly, crispy artichoke, parmesan
2008 Domaine Fouassier, L'Etourneau, Sancerre Rouge
Our most substantial item of the evening was a supple, fatty, slightly chewy slab of veal belly, an immensely flavorful cut loaded with heady aromatics. Fried shards of artichoke augmented the experience with their crispy, salty character, though I wasn't quite sold on the use of olive, which I found a tad distracting.

5: Strawberry cake, meringue, chantilly
2012 Maison P.U.R., La Bulle Gamay
Dessert brought out the classic pairing of strawberries and cream, an unquestionably effective combination that was taken up a notch here by dish's base of strawberry cake, a heavy, dense preparation that grounded the dessert with its potent bit of sweetness. Nice texture from those meringues, too.

Mignardises
Mignardises this evening comprised fermented black garlic caramels, which blended the traditional sugariness of the candy with the unmistakable relish of garlic, as well as smoked milk canelés, which somehow had a vaguely Asian-y flair to them that reminded me of tamago.

After my previous meal here, I predicted that Trois Mec would become of the City's most essential dining destinations, and that prognostication has certainly held true. I deemed it Ludo's best cooking to date, a sort of culmination of his LudoBites days, classical training, and France's bistronomic zeitgeist all rolled into one. That was over a year ago, so I was quite curious how things have held up. I'm happy to report that the kitchen is performing as good as ever, even with Lefebvre absent in the kitchen tonight. I sensed a bit more confidence in the cooking, and I'm sure that the team will only continue to grow and evolve. Now, to check out Petit Trois next door...

Petit Trois Restaurant
718 N Highland Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90038
www.petittrois.com
Mon 07/28/2014, 05:30p-07:45p

Petit Trois Exterior

I think it's not too far of a stretch to say that Trois Mec was the most widely-anticipated debut of 2013, so I guess it's not too surprising that its follow-up, Petit Trois, would wind up in a similar position this year. Yes, this is the long-awaited bar à la carte concept from Ludo Lefebvre and his Animal partners Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook, the one that had been teased since last December. Petit Trois bowed earlier than expected on the evening of the 23rd after about a month of friends & family type dinners that saw the likes of Nancy Silverton and, oddly enough, Justin Timberlake come in for a meal.

Petit Trois's a simple, casual place, a neighborhood-y type joint ostensibly reminiscent of similar bars in France, with day-to-day operations run by none other than Sydney Hunter III, who's looking much cleaner-cut these days. Hunter, if you recall, first cooked with Ludo at L'Orangerie, then worked at Bastide under Giraud, Ludo, Manzke, and Shoemaker. He then went over to Riva and Fraiche, then got back together with his old mentor at LudoBites (5.0 and 6.0) before returning to Bastide as head toque. His last post was at Cafe Pinot in Downtown, where he replaced Kevin Meehan.

Petit Trois Interior

Petit Trois takes over the address of the middling Tasty Thai next door to Trois Mec. Construction began in earnest at the end of February, and the whole space was penned by Estee Stanley. It's a cozy, classic, vaguely French-ish sort of affair, with 21 stools plus some standing room for both the marble-topped counter and narrow wooden bar along the wall.

As for Petit Trois' menu, expect spendy, traditional-tending bistro-y fare at dinner, executed with aplomb (I guess that rumored burger never materialized). Lunch is composed of two sandwiches (starting off with a jambon-beurre and pan-bagnat), which are limited to 200 portions apparently, available for dine-in or to-go. Meanwhile, a "late night menu" (served past 10:00p) comprises a single dish, the iconic croque monsieur. To imbibe, you'll get a smattering of beer and wine, as well as old school-leaning cocktails from Bar Manager Danielle Motor. Click for larger versions.

PANACHE

PANACHE [$7.00] | Kronenberg 1664, Rieme Sparkling Limonade
Speaking of those cocktails, we began with two of the lighter ones. The Panache (pronounced with the accent on the "e") was basically a shandy of sorts. French for "mixed," it's a combo of beer and sparkling lemonade that worked out beautifully, with its sweet-n-sour citrus flavors really mellowing out the inherent bitterness in the Kronenberg. Super refreshing, and super well integrated.

JASMINE & TONIC [$14.00] | Jasmine Vodka, Lime Juice, Tonic
The Jasmine & Tonic was similarly light, bright, and effervescent, with a strong lime character to even out the weight of the vodka. I would've liked to have tasted more from the jasmine, though.

Bread was suitably crusty out the outside, but fluffy on the inside, and went swimmingly with the particularly lush butter included. Note that bread & butter used to be on the menu for $3, but has apparently been taken off and turned into a complementary item.

TOMATO SALAD [$14.00] | Mussels, Red Onions
Tomato salads are typically pretty dull, but this one managed to be perhaps the most interesting version I've encountered. The key was the use of mussels, which imparted a briny, savory depth to the dish that definitely worked with the juicy sweetness of those tomatoes. I also appreciated the astringency and crunch provided by the onions, and the basil aromatics were a great finishing touch. Very pleasantly surprised here.

CHICKEN LEG [$29.00] | Brioche Butter, Green Salad, Parsley
The confit(?) chicken leg-thigh was also one that surprised us with how tasty it was. The bird conveyed a pretty marvelous, super buttery flavor, and the brioche breadcrumbs were a welcome accompaniment as well. Lovely use of the frisée salad here too, which had a light, acidic zing to it that really balanced out the chicken.

MAURESQUE [$16.00] | Ricard Pastis, Orgeat, Pear Brandy, Lime
French for "Moorish," the Mauresque is a traditional beverage from the south of France. It's definitely worth a shot if you're a fan of anise-y flavors, with the assertive taste of the liqueur melding well with the moderating sweetness of orgeat, the lime imparting a bit of an exclamation mark to the cocktail.

BELLOCQ'S SHOT [$14.00] | Rye Whisky, Housemade Pastis Sugar Cube, Creole Bitters
A variation on the traditional Sazerac, the Bellocq's Shot was the booziest cocktail of the bunch, with a strong whiskey character tempered somewhat by the astringency of the bitters.

STEAK TARTARE [$19.00] | Frites, Lettuces
The tartar was a must-get for us, and was one of the stronger versions I've tried, with a fine-spun, almost silken texture. Tiny, pickle-y bits mixed in provided an offsetting piquancy to the beef, and the fries were a natural accompaniment. Great with the toast below, too. Yum.

Accompanying the tartare was a Boston lettuce salad (I believe with a Dijon vinaigrette), which used to be a standalone dish on the menu. The leaves were appropriate buttery, making for a soft, slick, tangy salad that effectively countered the potency of the meat above.

BARDOT

BARDOT [$14.00] | Gin, Suze, Ruby Grapefruit, St. Germain
My favorite cocktail of the evening was the Bardot, thanks to its delightfully sweet, citrus-y character perfectly balanced out by the bite of the Suze.

PETIT PRINCE [$14.00] | Gin, Crème de Violette, Lemon, Luxardo
The Petit Prince also made use of gin, though wasn't quite as successful. I appreciated the sweet, floral nature of the violette here, though the lemon was a bit too forward for my liking.

OMELETTE [$18.00] | Chives, Boursin Cheese, Boston Lettuce, Dijon Vinaigrette
Petit Trois' omelet is quickly becoming the restaurant's signature dish, and it's not hard to see why. I don't think I'd ever had a version quite so decadent, with the omelet just dripping with lush, runny Boursin, a dash of black pepper doing a fantastic job in moderating the experience. Great counterpoint from the butterhead lettuce to boot. Damn good, and a must-try.

STEAK FRITES [$39.00] | Onion Soup Sauce
Our final savory brought out Petit Trois' rendition of the classic steak frites. Made with the traditional rump steak instead of a rib-eye or strip loin, the meat wasn't as tender as I'd expected, but was loaded with plenty of bovine flavor. A sauce recalling soupe à l'oignon added further savoriness and sweetness to the mix, but I preferred to enjoy the steak unadorned. And as with the tartare above, some lovely fries to go along.

CHEESE PLATE [$18.00]
The cheese course comprised three selections, all to my liking: a creamy smooth goat's milk Chabichou; a rich, palate-coating Reblochon; and a particularly pungent presentation of Camembert.

RAPID FIRE [$16.00] | Gin, Spiced Wine Reduction, Champagne, Lemon
At this point, we'd had six of the seven cocktails, so we decided we might as well run the gamut. I quite like the Rapid Fire, with its palpable touch of sweet spice playing nicely off the zing of lemon, the bubbly adding a touch of vivacity to the mix.

CHOCOLATE CAKE [$10.00] | Whipped Cream
And now for the sweet stuff. Petit Trois' chocolate cake was fairly prototypical, the dark, sugary notes from the cake lightened up quite a bit by the fluffy dollop of whipped cream up top.

NAPOLEON [$10.00] | Tahitian Vanilla
Our meal ended on a very high note with this Napoleon, a perfectly executed version of the classic dessert that blended crisp, crusty strata of puff pastry with luscious layers of vanilla cream, the whole thing teeming with a delectable sweet spice. Fantastic textural contrast here as well, in probably the tastiest mille-feuille type dessert I've had.

Petit Trois is a place that's almost bound to be mired in hype and controversy, what with its credit card only-no phone-no reservations-mandatory tip policies and whatnot, not to mention the whole aura of Ludo looming over. If you can just try to strip away all that, you're left with some really solid brasserie-esque French cookery, which is a pretty drastic change from the food next door at Trois Mec. It'll be interesting to see how this places evolves, whether or not it'll become the type of neighborhood-y place originally envisioned.

Maude Restaurant
212 S Beverly Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90212
310.859.3418
www.mauderestaurant.com
Fri 06/27/2014, 05:45p-07:55p

Following some pretty amazing meals at Curtis Stone's Maude for both citrus and rhubarb, I was particularly excited for this month's theme ingredient. After all, though I certainly appreciate citrus and/or rhubarb in a dish, the earthy, nutty goodness of the mushrooms is something I tend to seek out more.

Maude's morel menu was its priciest yet at $115 (though just wait for truffles in November), as apparently these wild mushrooms from the Pacific Northwest don't tend to come cheap. The "reserve" beverage pairing (which I hadn't encountered here before), meanwhile, tacked on an additional $125 per head. Click for a larger version.

Risotto

1: Risotto | Citrus Butter, Chicken Mousse
Gosset, "Grande Reserve", Aÿ, Champagne, France NV
Stone's opening salvo was one of the highlights of the night, with the creamy, cheesy, yet slightly citric rice pairing gorgeously with the headiness of the single chicken-stuffed morel. Just give me a big, heaping bowl of this, and I'd be good to go.

2: Kampachi | Avocado, Herbs, Passion Fruit Snow
Takasago, "Divine Droplets", Junmai Daiginjo, Hokkaido, Japan
A crudo of amberjack was up next. Taken alone, the fish was cool, dense, clean, with just enough fattiness to it, a fitting stage on which the combination of sweet fruit, herbs, and morel could really show itself. The best part? That togarashi-dusted avocado, which added a lushness to the course along with just an inkling of spice.

Scallop

3: Scallop | Wild Garlic, Watermelon Rind, Roe
Conreria d'Scala, "Les Brugueres", Priorat, Spain 2011
The scallop was spot on, perfectly cooked and caramelized, its briny goodness amped up by a subtle veil of morel and scallop roe foam. Equally as important was the fava and pickled rind, which offered up a great counterpoint and crunch.

4: Duck Egg | Summer Squash, Horseradish, Smoke
Set underneath a glass cloche was a mist of applewood(?) smoke that, when dissipated, revealed arguably the most ambitious course of the evening. The richness and weight of that duck egg was almost too much at first, but it melded beautifully with the lightness of the squash and horseradish while overarching notes of earthy smoke imparted further gravity to the dish. My favorite thing? Those crumbles, which simultaneously added crunch and savoriness to round out the dish.

Raviolo

5: Raviolo | Consommé, Truffle Crumble, Watercress
Radikon, "Oslavje", Venezie-Giulia, Italy 2007
The raviolo I had on my last visit here managed to be one of the tastiest I'd eaten in recent times, so I had high hopes for this one. It didn't let me down, coming out as probably the most morel-forward plate of the meal, the stuffing of what I believe was scallop mousseline permeated by the aromatic savor of the mushroom. If that wasn't enough, the truffle wafers added even further luxuriousness to the dish, while the watercress did provide a touch of countervailing zip to even things out.

6: Pork Belly | Jalapeno, Daikon, Carrot
A cuboid of pork belly arrived pretty much flawless, a perfect marriage of lean and fat, of crisp and supple textures. I thoroughly enjoyed the meat by itself, but the bright, acidic zing of the pickled veggies here formed a fitting complement, and I was a fan of those cheesy tuiles as well.

Lamb

7: Lamb | Green Garbanzo, Eggplant, Leek
Château Canon, St-Emilion, Bordeaux, France 2004
A delectable lamb saddle formed our final savory, a full-flavored, yet not overtly gamy cut that went just swimmingly with its paired morels. I was a fan of the light, nutty relish of the garbanzos here as well, and the astringency of that charred leek was on point.

8: Taleggio | Onion, Charred Peach, Nasturtium
Taleggio was presented in spherical form, a delightful ball of fluffy goodness that presented a straightforward flavor profile that worked admirably with the sweet-tangy notes of the peach and pickled onion.

Maude Ice Cream Bars

Our pre-dessert comprised some whimsical ice cream bars that satisfied in a simple sort of way, the vanilla filling integrated with chocolate shells imbued with nuances of morel and coffee.

9: Black Forest Floor | Dark Cherry, Chocolate, Hazelnut
De Conciliis, "Rai", Passito, Campania, Italy 2012
Tonight's dessert proper was a standout as well, a sort of a take on black forest cake. I loved the combination of chocolate, caramel, cherry, and nutty notes here, and how it formed a familiar flavor profile that was taken up a notch by an undercurrent of pungent morel.

Maude Mignardises

Mignardises this time around included blueberry financiers, mango-coconut tarts, and raspberry dark chocolate bonbons.

Takeaway: Maude Morel Salt

To take home: morel salt (which I subsequently lost).

Well, it seems like Stone and his team have delivered once again, batting three-for-three with tonight's exploration of morels, showcasing the mushroom in a variety of ways that played to its strengths as both a star and a supporting player. The Chef's cooking is winning him throngs of fans, myself included. Now, to get into that truffle dinner...

Plate by Plate 2014 at Petersen Automotive Museum
6060 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90036
www.platebyplate.org/la/
Sat 08/02/2014, 06:30p-10:00p

Over the weekend, Project by Project hosted its 12th annual Plate by Plate tasting benefit at the Petersen Automotive Museum. For the unfamiliar, Project by Project is a nationwide non-profit focused on issues relating to the Asian-American community. Each year, the group chooses a particular theme to concentrate on--health, education, the arts, and so on--and partners with a charitable organization in that space. With 2014's theme of mental health, the partner chosen was Pacific Asian Counseling Services, a local non-profit dedicated to providing counseling services for immigrant families. As in years past, Plate by Plate showcased the culinary talents of some of the City's most popular and up-and-coming eateries, all washed down by free-flowing beverages of various types.

Victoria Lee, Andy Lo

Marcus Lee, Kristy Lu, Billy Kang, Esther Phu

The first faces greeting guests were those of PbP members Victoria Lee (Events), Andy Lo (Marketing), Marcus Lee (Operations), Kristy Lu (Operations), Billy Kang (Operations), and Esther Phu (Events) at the check-in table.

Emi Fukuoka, Michelle Weng

L: Manager of Team and Leadership Development Emi Fukuoka, along with Manager of Outreach Michelle Weng.
R: Volunteer Team member Julie Yu with Theresa Kiang and friends.

Lynne Cheng, Michael Lumunsad

L: Events Team member Lynne Cheng and Director of Leadership & Team Development Michael Lumunsad.
R: Photographer Jane Sha, who, interestingly enough, won my ticket giveaway last year.

James Ta and crew

Chef James Ta of Fickle presented a Banh Xiao (Cambodian Mung Bean Crepe) with Shallot Beef Tartar.

Aburi Albacore Roll with Sushi Rice, Tempura Asparagus/Sweet Potato/Carrot, topped with Seared Albacore & Chili Oil

Erika Breitkopf and the team from Chaya had an Aburi Albacore Roll with Sushi Rice, Tempura Asparagus/Sweet Potato/Carrot, topped with Seared Albacore & Chili Oil.

Happy couple

Happy guests.

David Feau and crew

Smoked Cello Beets, Yuzu Creme Fraiche, Shaved Bonito, Chili Tapioca

Chef David Feau from the recently-shuttered Lexington Social House served a dish that's representative of the type of cuisine that you'll find at his upcoming restaurant (yes, he's finally opening a place): Smoked Cello Beets, Yuzu Creme Fraiche, Shaved Bonito, Chili Tapioca.

Top Chef: Just Desserts alum Sally Camacho Mueller was repping the Jonathan Club and served up a duo of desserts: an Ube Coconut Éclair and Halo-Halo with Milk Ice, Pandan Crème, Sweet Corn Glace, Flan, and Black Rice.

Cindy Choi, James Choi

James and Cindy Choi of Cafe Dulce had a variety of coffee and sweets on hand.

Andre Guerrero, Sainegee Wong, Tara

Firecracker Shrimp: Fried Shrimp Spring Roll, Shiitake Mushrooms, Scallions, Garlic, Oyster Sauce with a Thai Lime Dipping Sauce

Andre Guerrero and Chef de Cuisine Sainegee Wong of Little Bear, joined by their lovely hostess Tara, presented Firecracker Shrimp: Fried Shrimp Spring Roll, Shiitake Mushrooms, Scallions, Garlic, Oyster Sauce with a Thai Lime Dipping Sauce and Billionaire's Shortbread for dessert.

Charcuterie and Pickles

Chef Walter Manzke of Republique busted out an impressive charcuterie spread, served on one of his famous long wooden boards.

L: The Ketel One girls were hard to miss.
R: Sadly, Starry Kitchen's Nguyen Tran was out of town during the event, but his 7/8th scale, banana suit-clad stand-in was a worthy replacement.

Next to Republique was Manzke's other place, Petty Cash, helmed here by Chef Fabian Gallardo. On the menu: a refreshing Aguachile.

Vegan Chicharron (Puffed Rice, Coconut, Finger Lime, Verbena, Espelette), Yuzukosho Caramels

Vegan Chicharron (Puffed Rice, Coconut, Finger Lime, Verbena, Espelette), Yuzukosho Caramels

Carlos Enriquez, Jen Sorlie, Alex Lester

Repping Patina Group were Corporate Pastry Chef Carlos Enriquez, Marketing Manager Jen Sorlie, and Patina Catering Executive Chef Alex Lester. Their trio of goodies included a Pork Belly Sandwich (Pain au Lait, Pickled Veggies, Jalapeño Crème Fraiche), a Vegan Chicharron (Puffed Rice, Coconut, Finger Lime, Verbena, Espelette), and Yuzukosho Caramels in edible wrappers.

Kelly Li, Khanh Nguyen

L:Goose Island had a troika of brews available: 312 Urban Pale Ale, Sofie Belgian Style Farmhouse Ale, and their Matilda Belgian Style Pale Ale.
R:Voss was the event's official water sponsor, and had both sparkling and still varieties on tap.

Drago Centro's Chef Ian Gresik served up a popular pasta dish with his Rabbit Agnolotti with Zucchini and Parmesan.

Jun Isogai, David Bartnes

Beef-centric newcomer b.o.s. had Chef David Bartnes and GM Jun Isogai on hand dishing up both Flat Iron Thai-taki and Grilled Miso Heart.

Actress and perennial PbP fixture Lynn Chen was in attendance of course.

Andrew Chiu and Andrew Wong's DTLA newbie Peking Tavern had some delightfully spicy Sichuan Fish Dumplings on offer.

Lincoln Carson, Jason Travi

Arctic Char with Peas and Pickled Rhubarb

Chef Jason Travi and Pastry Chef Lincoln Carson made a strong case for Superba Food + Bread with the one-two punch of Arctic Char with Peas and Pickled Rhubarb and Carson's dessert.

Billy Wing, Taichi Seki

L: Events Team member Billy Wing had a good time at the Asahi booth with sales rep Taichi Seki.
R: Next door, coincidentally, was arch-rival Kirin. Their secret weapon? A frozen beer slushie machine.

Steven Fretz, Ian Opina, Ryan Ososky, Devon Espinosa

Steven Fretz, Ian Opina, Ryan Ososky, Devon Espinosa

The Church Key made a good showing with Executive Chef Steven Fretz, Pastry Chef Ian Opina, Chef de Cuisine Ryan Ososky, and Bar Director Devon Espinosa. On the menu was one of Espinosa's cocktails as well as some freshly-fried donuts that managed to land the team second place in Plate by Plate's "best dish" competition.

Tarbais Bean Hummus, 'Gelee de Volaille', Bay Scallops, Mezcal Whipped, Smoked Steelhead Roe

Tarbais Bean Hummus, 'Gelee de Volaille', Bay Scallops, Mezcal Whipped, Smoked Steelhead Roe

Longtime PbP supporter Laurent Quenioux couldn't make it tonight, but Bistro LQ was represented by his dish of Tarbais Bean Hummus, "Gelee de Volaille", Bay Scallops, Mezcal Whipped, Smoked Steelhead Roe. Look for Quenioux to debut his own spot in the old Vertical space coming up.

He towers above

Photos with one very tall person.

Brownies with Verve Coffee, Cafe au Lait Eclairs

Short Cake's Ivan Marquez brought us a number of treats: Nancy's Famous TCHO Chocolate Chip Cookies, Salt & Pepper Ganache Tarts, Brownies with Verve Coffee, and Cafe au Lait Eclairs.

Coconut Beef and Rice and Cornbread Bibingka were served by Edren Sumagaysay's team from The Park's Finest.

L:Bird Pick Tea & Herb owner Ryan Trinh was here serving up an assortment of his teas.
R:1886 at The Raymond had a great cocktail in the form of the Bucky O'Hare (El Silencio Mezcal, Cio Ciaro, Fresh Lime & Ginger, Grapefruit Soda).

Wes Zelio, Verite Mazzola

People were saying some good things about Taberna Arros y Vi's Harissa Cured Pork Belly on Chive Polenta. I spied GM Wes Zelio and Verite Mazzola, though owner Michael Cardenas was curiously absent.

Steamed Vietnamese Rice Crepe with Confit Chicken Skin, Curry Beef, Fried Shallots, Scallions and Fish Sauce

In Nguyen's absence, the Starry Kitchen booth was helmed by Matt Kim and Eric. Their dish? Steamed Vietnamese Rice Crepe with Confit Chicken Skin, Curry Beef, Fried Shallots, Scallions and Fish Sauce.

Jenn Chen, Albert Chiu

L: Project by Project San Francisco's Director of Volunteer Management Jennifer Chen and Manager of Auction Donations Albert Chiu helped man the silent auction tables this evening. In related news, that is one big-ass Hello Kitty head.
R: Let it be known that Eric Tung most certainly did not come to the event alone.

Alimento team

Chicken Liver Crostone with Black Plum Mostarda

Alimento's Zach Pollack had to step out early to take care of things at his new place, though the team did a great job serving up his Chicken Liver Crostone with Black Plum Mostarda. That's some nice looking housemade bread there, too (Pollack's quite the baker I'm told).

Yummy looking Jamon Del Pais sliders came from Zarate Restaurants' Corporate Executive Chef Alex Galan. This year saw a rare no-show from Ricardo, who's been involved with PbP since at least '09.

L: Now for some more beer: Tap It Brewing from San Luis Obispo had both their IPA and APA on tap.
R:Old Orange Brewing Company's head brewer Brian Lambros, meanwhile, showed off his Thumb Master DIPA and orange hef.

Yulree Chun, David Feau

L: PbP LA President Yulree Chun looking lovely with Chef David Feau.
R: Floor Manager (and fellow restaurant recruiter) Cathy Hong regulated.

PACS

PbP partner Pacific Asian Counseling Services rolled deep this year.

Yulree Chun

And now, a word from President Yulree and co-MCs Sean Miura and Jenny Yang.

Anna Gu, JT Kim, David Choi

L: Project by Project National President JT Kim with PbP NY Director of Outreach-slash-model Anna Gu and musician David Choi.
R: Blogger extraordinaire Darin Dines, with girlfriend Shirley Hsu.

Hiroyuki Naruke, Kyoko Naruke

Hiroyuki Naruke from stellar sushi newcomer Q was joined by wife Kyoko and served Tamago (Egg with Bay Shrimp), Kurage (Jellyfish with Sesame Sauce), Gold Leaf-topped Tuna, and Iced Green Tea.

Chicken Liver Mousse with Pickled and Spiced Blueberries, Porchetta di Testa with Lost Soul Ale Mustard

Gavin and Jessica Mills' eponymous Mills & Co once again delivered with a duo of charcuterie: Chicken Liver Mousse with Pickled and Spiced Blueberries and Porchetta di Testa with Lost Soul Ale Mustard.

Walter el Nagar's modern Italian stylings were showcased by vegan Mushroom "Bone Marrow" and a rendition of Vitello Tonnato. Look for one more iteration of his Barbershop pop-up before a permanent spot opens.

Ketel One ice bar

L:Ketel One made an impressive showing once again with their translucent bar carved out of solid ice.
R: Plenty of Leffe (Blonde and Brun) was available for the Belgian beer fans out there (of which I am one).

Albacore Sashimi with Ginger Soy Vinaigrette and Fried Onions

GM Jesse Duron, Executive Chef Wonny Lee, and Executive Sushi Chef Yoya Takahashi showed up for Hamasaku and gave us an Albacore Sashimi with Ginger Soy Vinaigrette and Fried Onions.

Bruce Kalman and his Pasadena newcomer Union doled out an appealing dish of Black Mission Figs and Ricotta, Rosemary, Wildflower Honey.

Darrel Alfonso, Lily Tran, Phil Alfonso

L: VIP area bouncers Darrel Alfonso (Marketing Team), Lily Tran (Marketing Team), and Phil Alfonso (Volunteer Team).
R: Manager of Beverage Relations Danny Li, with wife Margaret Lin.

Salt and Sugar Cured Beef with Preserved Swordfish, Squid Ink, Thai Basil, and Cucumber

Chef-in-Residence Joshua Drew and Pastry Chef Sahar Shomali from Fifty Seven plated a lovely Salt and Sugar Cured Beef with Preserved Swordfish, Squid Ink, Thai Basil, and Cucumber.

L:Bundaberg's refreshing ginger beer was a nice change of pace.
R: For some lighter Belgian beers, you had the duet of Hoegaarden and Stella Artois available.

Tim Edwards, Corrina Murdy, Vince Howard

Tim Edwards, Corrina Murdy, Vince Howard

Some of the most substantial plates of the evening came from Del Rey Deli's Tim Edwards, Corrina Murdy, and Chef Vince Howard: Lambcetta on Salted Pretzel Roll, Lomo, Beets and Burrata Cheese, and Pork Belly, Pickled Shallot, Local Mustard.

Clayton Tran, Mary Zhang

Aleksandra Baranova, Elise Freimuth, Andrew Cosgrove, Alex Melelian

L: Fundraising Team lead Clayton Tran, along with Project by Project San Francisco's Director of Events Mary Zhang.
R: PR firm Wagstaff Worldwide was out in full force tonight with Aleksandra Baranova, Elise Freimuth, Andrew Cosgrove, and Alex Melelian all in attendance.

Chef Nick Erven's hot K-Town newcomer Saint Martha had a Chicken Liver Mousse with Shaved Baguette, Pickled Blueberry and Hazelnut Praline.

Steve Samson, Dina Pepito

Steve Samson and Dina Pepito from Southern Italian staple Sotto had a dish of Stracciatella, Marinated Tomatoes, Bottarga.

L: Vankhoa "Mike" Le's Bobo's Cold Brew poured their Cafe Den (Vietnamese style black coffee).
R: Meanwhile, sake service tonight was provided by Gekkeikan.

Wood & Vine's Marc Johnson went a little risky with his Cured Sardines with Smoked Salmon Roe, Fava Bean Puree, Radish and Blossoms, but worked it out.

Akira Hirose's longstanding Maison Akira did well with its combo of Chilled Somen with Chicken Soboro with Truffle Flavor Tsuyu and Braised Pork Belly with Wasabi Potato Mousseline.

Bryan Wilkerson, Cherisse Cleofe, Tuyet Nguyen, Becca S

L: All the single ladies.
R: Events Team member-slash-Floor Manager Tuyet Nguyen is joined by Becca S, Cherisse Cleofe, and a smoldering Bryan Wilkerson.

Ube shaved Ice

Fluff Ice had cups of silky ube-flavored shaved ice.

Michael Hung

Stephane Bombet and Executive Chef Hung were here to represent DTLA's new Faith & Flower. The dish: Duck Breast Escabeche, Black Soy, and Plum Confit.

CNS Enterprises team

L:CNS Enterprises kept it O.G. with Shui Jing Fang and Moutai baijiu.
R: Last but not least was Ventura Limoncello. Pouring were none other than co-founders James Carling and Manuela Zaretti-Carling.

Octopus, Plums, Cherry Tomatoes, Capers, Purslane, Chile Anchovy Oil, Pickled Mouse Melons

Octopus, Plums, Cherry Tomatoes, Capers, Purslane, Chile Anchovy Oil, Pickled Mouse Melons

Time to visit the VIP area. First up was Bestia, which still just might be the hottest restaurant in town. New father Ori Menashe couldn't make it this evening, though Michelle Myrick was certainly able to hold down the fort in his absence. Bestia's octopus is oft-regarded as some of the best in the City, so their Octopus, Plums, Cherry Tomatoes, Capers, Purslane, Chile Anchovy Oil, Pickled Mouse Melons this evening was promising to be sure.

Phillip Frankland Lee, Margarita Lee

Chef Phillip Frankland Lee and Pastry Chef Margarita Lee from Scratch Bar, meanwhile, went completely outside the box this time around, and it paid off. Instead of your typical setup, the team opted to do a mini four-course tasting menu for a dozen people at a time. Think Green Mussel & Sea Urchin Sake Shooter, the signature Pork Belly & Raw Oyster, Bone Marrow n' Sourdough, and a finishing Dark Chocolate & Cayenne Candy Bar. They managed to serve around 180 guests in a roughly three-and-a-half hour period.

L: VIP bar duties this year were handled by Harlowe. Kyle Ackley served a delicious Spiced Berry Daiquiri (Selvarey rum, seasonal berries, cinnamon and spice syrup, fresh lime, blended).
R: Volunteer Team member Kay Vu, looking lovely with a custom 1948 Jaguar coupe.

In the VIP.

L: One of my favorite photos of the night: Sally Camacho caught double fisting.
R: PbP SF Manager of Beverage & Winery Relations Vivian Lin and PbP LA Beverage team member Jannie Phang.

JT Kim, Michelle Ko, Nirendran Kathirithamby

JT Kim, Michelle Ko, Nirendran Kathirithamby

L: The power players: PbP National President JT Kim, PbP Board of Directors Chair Michelle Ko, PbP Director Nirendran Kathirithamby.
R: The Church Key crew gettin' jiggy with it (and yes, Devon's as good of a dancer as you would imagine).

Matt Kim, Kristen Jue, Vinh Nguyen

L: SK's Matt Kim, Darin Dines associate Kristen Jue, and prolific Yelper Vinh N.
R: One high-ass pour.

Julie Yu, Becky Chou

L: Volunteer Team members Julie Yu and Becky Chou.
R: One guest took "plate by plate" literally, and polished off Chaya's rolls, hands-free, in one fell swoop.

Emely Cubias, Teresa Brown

L: Emely Cubias and Teresa Brown from The Raymond definitely enjoyed themselves.
R:"Hello Kitty" Vu with the b.o.s. team.

PbP SF's Mary Zhang and Vivian Lin turn Patina's Pork Belly Sandwich into sexy feeding time.

Phillip Frankland Lee, Margarita Kallas Lee

Austin Mao, Audrey Lo, Phillip Frankland Lee

Scratch Bar ended up winning the coveted "Golden Plate" award for their considerable efforts tonight. In related news, Chef Phillip's Gadarene Swine should be opening up soon in Studio City, so be on the lookout for that.

Danny Li splashes Tuyet Nguyen

Post-event shenanigans.

Previous Plate by Plate posts: 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010

Alimento Restaurant
1710 Silver Lake Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
323.928.2888
www.alimentola.com
Tue 07/08/2014, 08:25p-11:15p

Alimento Exterior

I was quite the fan of Sotto when it first opened back in 2011, but one of the things that'd always struck me as odd was that the restaurant had two head chefs: Steve Samson and Zachary Pollack. They always warn about having too many cooks in the kitchen, so I wasn't surprised when it was announced back in February that Pollack would be starting his own place (though he still retains an ownership stake in the old restaurant). Alimento ("food" in Italian, roughly) thus debuted on June 26th in Silver Lake (an area the Chef had been interested in even pre-Sotto), a sort of trattoria-style joint just a stone's throw away from L&E Oyster Bar. As for the cooking, it veers away from the Southern Italian slant that he and Samson presented at Sotto. Rather, the food is more of a pan-Italian affair, but with traditional flavors re-interpreted.

Alimento Interior

Alimento occupies the old Back Door Bakery building, which, if you recall, was supposed to become Bleu Sage. The roughly 1,300-square-foot space seats just over 40 diners, with an additional dozen to come on the patio.

As for Alimento's menu, it features more traditional-leaning fare as well as dishes that you'd probably never encounter in Italy, broken up into smaller plates, housemade pastas, and larger platters. To imbibe, there's a concise, eclectic, mostly-Italian wine list of about 30 bottles chosen by Ryan Wenger (The Hart & The Hunter), as well as a smattering of beers. Controversially, there's also a $1.50pp charge for filtered still or sparkling water, with half of the fee going to the Silver Lake Reservoirs Conservancy. Click for larger versions.

Alimento definitely seems like a wine-focused place, so we opted for a sparkler to start, the Bele Casel (NV) Prosecco Col Fondo Brut, Veneto [$40]. I found it a rather nice example of Prosecco, fresh and fizzy, with a good amount of fruit character joined by a just a slight bit of breadiness underpinning everything.

Chicken Liver Crostone [$10.00] | black plum mostarda
We had to try the chicken liver, naturally, and Alimento's was a fine presentation, with the silky offal's earthy, in-your-face savor vibrantly conveyed, tempered just enough by the sweet 'n' sour zing of that mostarda. Lovely over the charred bread as well.

Mackerel Conserva [$13.00] | white beans, green chilies, bottarga
My favorite item of the night turned out to be the mackerel. I loved the fish's juicy, emphatic brine, taken up a notch by the sprinklings of bottarga, while the white beans did a wonderful job in grounding the dish. Superbly balanced.

Cotechino [$14.00] | granola del Pò, zabaglione
Given my penchant for tubed meat, the cotechino, a sort of cooked salami, was a must try. I really appreciate the sausage's rustic, gritty consistency and deep flavors, especially when taken with the paired sabayon. I wasn't as convinced about the granola however; although it did provide a great textural contrast to things, it seemed to go overly sweet.

Pig in a Blanket [$11.00] | mortadella, spelt pastry, brovada, stracchinata
Next up was an unconventional Italianate dish featuring a delightful braised mortadella, a satisfying, somewhat hammy cut of pork that paired swimmingly with the lush stracchinata cheese while that mustard-turnip combo added the perfect touch of piquancy to the dish. I was a big fan of the spelt pastry as well, which provided just enough textural complexity.

Yellowtail Collar Affumicato [$17.00] | potatoes, capers, crema acida
The yellowtail was another standout, the fish's inherent goodness enveloped by a veil of delectably smoky notes while the "potato salad" imparted an offsetting acidity to really set things off.

Lamb Belly [$15.00] | chickpea pancake, fennel, mint, tomato, fiore sardo
The lamb was delectable, fatty and lush and savory all at the same time, yet smartly set against the brightness of the included mint, tomato, and fennel. Great kick of salt from that fiore sardo as well, though I would've liked a more substantial texture on the pancakes.

We decided to stay on the sparkling track, and followed up the Prosecco with the Royaz 2010 Natur Sparkling Rose, Slovenia [$48]. Tons of strawberry on the nose here, and a bit less when tasted, along with a touch of spice and a not unpleasant bitterness toward the finish.

Tortellini in Brodo [$15.00] | "al contrario"
Next, we moved into Alimento's housemade pastas, starting with the Chef's take on a sort of "pasta in broth" dish. The tortellini were almost dumpling-like in nature, just bursting at the seams with a salty, satisfying broth while the included cream sauce added further luxuriousness to the experience.

Squid Ink Radiatori [$16.00] | red wine-braised squid, mussels, peas, dried tomato
These "little radiators" were something that I'd never encountered before, but were put to good use, doing a nice job in complementing the ocean-y flavors at play. I quite appreciated the counterbalancing bit of levity from the veggies here as well, and loved the subtle undercurrent of heat in the dish. Great crunch from the breadcrumbs, too.

Rye Tagliatelle [$16.00] | veal ragu bianco, porcini, thyme
Last up was the tagliatelle, paired with its classic accompaniment of meat sauce. Think rich, hearty, satisfying flavors, amped up by the porcini while thyme offered up an aromatic counterpoint.

Bollito di Manzo [$39.00] | cavolo nero, pearà, traditional sauces
We were pretty full by this point, but still opted to get one of Alimento's platters, this one featuring two cuts of boiled beef, served with horseradish, mostarda, a sort of salsa verde, and Tuscan kale. First was the tongue, which I found suitably tender, with an almost ham-like quality to it that paired swimmingly with the tang of the included green sauce. We also enjoyed what I believe was brisket, which was even more flavorful and even more tender--delicious alone, and great with a dab of horseradish as well.

Rice Pudding [$6.00]
Alimento has no written dessert menu, but we eagerly ordered one each of everything our server recited. First up was the restaurant's take on rice pudding. Done up with condensed milk, it was pretty much just what you'd want from the dessert: rice-y, but also loaded with sweet spice, the nuts on top adding a well-placed crunch.

Almond Cake [$7.00]
The polenta-almond cake also delivered, showing off sweet, nutty flavors, but with the essence of the cornmeal shining through. Quite nice when taken with the cherries and cream.

Chocolate Budino [$7.00]
And to close? Budino of course, this one composed of both milk chocolate and dark chocolate, along with caramel and bread crumbs. Just as tasty as you'd expect.

Alimento's yet another feather in Silver Lake's dining cap. We're not talking faithful Italian here though. Sure, the menu incorporates Italian ingredients, Italian preparations, and is certainly inspired by the country and its various regions, but the cooking here is more about the Chef's exploration of the cuisine. And as such, it's quite unlike any other Italian joint around. In the end, you shouldn't be coming here for strict Italian food, you should be coming here for Zach's food.

Hero Shop Downtown
130 E 6th St, Los Angeles, CA 90014
213.265.7561
www.heroshopla.com
Mon 07/21/2014, 05:35p-06:25p

Hero Shop Exterior

Chef Eric Park and Jonathan Kim's Black Hogg was one of the first of the new crop of Silver Lake restaurants that've popped up in recent years. When we last caught up with the duo, they had just relaunched the place after closing and retooling for a beer & wine license. Since then, Black Hogg has debuted lunch service in the form of Sopressata, an Italian-inspired sandwich concept that took Park back to his roots of operating the Togo's next to USC for nearly ten years. Sopressata has been largely well-received, and so we can't be too surprised that the Chef's newest project also features variations of meat-between-bread. Hero Shop opened in April, and represents Park's interpretation of the Vietnamese staple bánh mì. I'd actually been curious about this place for a while now, but was never in the area during their limited hours. However, Hero Shop has since extended service until 8:00p, so I finally made it a point to stop by.

Hero Shop Interior

Located right next to Mignon and a couple doors down from Cole's, Hero Shop occupies the spot of the old Babycakes, a vegan bakery that closed at the start of 2013. The narrow-ish space (which was originally slated to be the home of Sopressata) has been opened up a bit, though seating is sparse, with about six stools along a wall and three small tables outside. Note the chalkboard work by Beautification Solutions (they also did the signage for Sopressata).

Hero Shop's menu features 10 variations on banh mi, some of which can be turned into bowl form, along with a couple sides, Asian-y chips, and some non-alcoholic beverages. Click for a larger version.

Headcheese [$8.00] | House Marinated Pork headcheese, House Pâté, Cilantro, Jalapeño, Pickled Daikon & Carrots, Shaved Onion, Mayo
Naturally, I had to start with arguably the most classic of preparations. Park's housemade headcheese was delightful, soft yet slightly gelatinous to the bite, with a clean, focused sort of piggy savor to it that was further enhanced by the earthy depth of pâté. Add to that the various pickles, peppers, cilantro, and creamy mayo to tie it all together, and you get a superbly balanced, delicious sandwich indeed.

Garlic Scallion String Beans [$5.00]
I'm quite the fan of string beans, and the examples here were on point, waxy and crisp and loaded with nutty, garlicky goodness.

Sardine

Sardine [$11.00] | Spanish Canned Sardines, Shaved Onion, Pickled Daikon & Carrots, Cilantro, Jalapeño and Mayo
This was my first experience with a sardine-stuffed banh mi, and it did not disappoint. The fish's strong, ocean-y character was apparent here, yet not domineering, a satisfying, delectable base on which the various veggies could really work their magic.

Roast Sambal Broccolini (Vegan) [$5.00]
Our second side was even better, the bright, bitter crunch of the broccolini evened out by a great touch of spice. I would've liked smaller, easier-eating pieces here though.

Fatty Brisket [$11.00] | Slow-Roasted Angus Beef Brisket, Pickled Daikon & Carrots, Shaved Onion, Cilantro, Jalapeño, Mayo
Along with the BBQ Pork, the brisket is Hero Shop's best seller, and it's not hard to see why. The meat, as advertised, was appropriately fatty, tender, and brimming with beefy, aromatic nuances that recalled a hearty pho soup.

To drink, we enjoyed a Saigon Iced Coffee [$3.50], Hero Shop's worthwhile take on ca phe sua da, as well as a refreshing Chin Chin Green Tea [$2] and an invigorating bottle of Stumptown Cold Brew [$4]. There's no booze here as of now, though apparently it might be a possibility in the future. I think beer could go great with the food here.

Spice & Sour Chicken [$9.00] | Sous Vide Chicken Breast, Cilantro, Pickled Daikon & Carrots, Mayo
The last sandwich was perhaps the biggest surprise of the evening. Chicken usually isn't all that exciting, but this version was spot on, the bird coming out tender, flavorful, and perfectly tarted up by an undercurrent of heat that really worked with the pickles here.

Blood Sausage & Peppers [$9.00] | Morcilla (Spanish Blood Sausage), Sauteed Jalapeño Peppers, Cilantro, Pickled Daikon, Shaved Onion, Fish Sauce Vinaigrette, Sous Vide Egg, Coconut Rice and Sesame Seeds
Finally, we had to try one of Hero Shop's bowls, and the morcilla sounded like an interesting choice. I rather liked it, the heft of the blood sausage really playing well with its various accompaniments and making for a satisfying mélange of contrasting flavors all underscored by the sweetness of that coconut rice. You could almost think of this as a reworked bibimbap of sorts.

Hero Shop's renditions of the ubiquitous Vietnamese staple may not be 100% traditional, but they certainly were delicious. Fillings were varied, well-executed, and universally tasty, but always stayed true to the ethos of the original sandwich. The bread, too, was also worth noting. It's not the super-duper-hard, mouth-cutting stuff you get at Lee's; rather, the baguettes were just flaky and crisp enough, with supple centers that melded well with the various fillings. Hero Shop's a winning concept, and perhaps more importantly, it's a repeatable concept, so I'm curious to see if Park and company choose to expand in the future.

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