Chez Panisse (Berkeley, CA) [2]

Chez Panisse Restaurant
1517 Shattuck Ave, Berkeley, CA 94709
510-548-5525
www.chezpanisse.com
Sat 07/27/2024, 08:05p-10:45p





As I expounded on in my previous dining report, Chez Panisse played a key part in my personal culinary evolution. Opened in 1971 by Alice Water et al., the place is largely credited for kickstarting the California cuisine movement in the latter part of the 20th century, and is widely regarded as one of the most influential American restaurants. Given the personal significance that Chez Panisse holds for me, it felt appropriate to pay it a revisit on my recent Northern California adventure. Even at age 80, Waters is still involved in the restaurant, and apparently has to approve every menu, though the day-to-day running of the kitchen is now handled by Head Chef Amy Dencler.

About the Chef: Dencler was born in June 1966 and hails from Pittsburgh, PA. After finishing up her studies at the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, she cooked around various spots in her hometown and in New York before landing at The Inn at Little Washington. From there, she relocated to California and secured a post at Oliveto Cafe & Restaurant in Oakland in 1995, cooking under EC Paul Bertolli and CdC Michael Tusk. In 1996, Dencler joined the team at Chez Panisse café, then moved to the downstairs restaurant four years later, and was promoted to Restaurant Chef in 2016.



Despite a fire-induced remodel in 2013, things haven't changed much in the dining room, nor should they. That Japanese-accented Craftsman aesthetic feels just right.


Our menu was priced at $175pp, plus 10.25% tax and 17% service. The evening's beverage list is also pictured, and there's the option of a wine pairing at $85. Click for larger versions.


And here we see Chez Panisse's wine list, which seems appropriate. Corkage is $40 a bottle, or $70 for magnums. Click for larger versions.


An apéritif
Our meal commenced with a spritzy, refreshing, apple-y apéritif infused with Seville orange, black peppercorn, and coriander.


A sextet of Gruyère gougères then appeared--soft, airy, cheesy choux pastries tinged with the lingering kick of cracked black pepper.


1: Salade frisée aux lardons; with mustard vinaigrette, croûtons, and farm egg
It'd been a while since I'd had a salade lyonnaise, so I was happy to see it on the menu tonight. The combo of bitter endive, salty bacon, crunchy croutons, and lush, runny, enveloping egg was spot-on, and all tied together by that tangy vinaigrette. This salad is a classic for a reason.


Bread service tonight consisted of a crusty pain fendu (split French roll) custom-made by Acme Bread Company (a local bakery founded in 1983 by former Chez Panisse employee Steve Sullivan), paired with some superb butter.


2: Wild king salmon à la nage with new potatoes, summer squash, and basil butter
A delicate presentation of salmon showed off a gentle salinity and fattiness that combined elegantly with the zippy greenery, all while potatoes added the requisite heft to the dish.


To drink, I brought along a bottle of the 1999 Justin Isoceles, a 63% Cabernet Sauvignon/20% Cabernet Franc/17% Merlot blend that I'd purchased at the winery in Paso Robles just two days earlier. The wine demonstrated a nose filled with musty, barnyard-y notes intertwined with jammy fruit and meat. On the palate, the Bordeaux blend possessed a still-lively acidity along with jammy fruits, a marked savoriness, and a hint of mint. With further time, I found a cooler presentation of dark fruit, along with more herbaceousness and even more umami. I'd say that this one has held up quite well over the past 25 years.


3: Paine Farm squab grilled with thyme and garlic; with eggplant fritters, roasted red torpedo onions, and romano beans
Sourced from Sonoma, Paine Farm pigeon came out rich and full-flavored, with a deep, somewhat gamey taste that was further bolstered by an earthy paste made from the bird's liver. I was also a fan of the squab's smoky char and silky, succulent texture, while the various veggies were key for balance.



Supplement: Artisan Cheese Plate [$25.00]
We ended up adding augmenting our meal with an assiette de fromage course. The soft cheese was Acapella, a delectably funky, tangy, creamy, vegetable ash-coated goat's milk variety produced by Andante Dairy in nearby Petaluma, CA. We also had a harder cheese (unfortunately I forgot the name) made from a 90/10 ratio of cow/goat milk, and this one displayed a fruity, nearly honeyed profile that I also enjoyed. Accoutrements included black mission figs, some wonderfully floral-herby roasted almonds, and nut bread that was also sourced from Acme.


At this point, we were provided a spearmint-lemon verbena tea. Think hot and cozy, with a minty, floral, citrusy character.


4: Strawberry and pistachio ice cream bombe
This Neapolitan-esque ice cream was certainly to my liking thanks to its flawless marriage of pistachio and strawberry. The combo was further enhanced by tart, fresh, nearly floral fruit and all those nutty, crunchy bits.


We were also given complimentary pours of Marsala, a rich, sweet fortified wine with an oxidative bent that served as an apt digestif.


Finally, two varieties of mignardises were offered: chocolate truffles and pistachio nougatines.

Clearly, Chez Panisse lacked the fireworks of last night's spellbinding dinner at SingleThread, but that's perfectly fine. This isn't food that'll wow you, but the kitchen delivered exactly what we were asking for, and everything was as it should be. The restaurant is still going strong after over fifty years in the game, and I think that speaks to the timelessness of the place, and its legacy. I look forward to returning in another decade or so.