A. Wong (London, United Kingdom)

A.Wong Restaurant
70 Wilton Rd, Pimlico, London SW1V 1DE, United Kingdom
+44 20 7828 8931
www.awong.co.uk
Tue 10/17/2023, 05:35p-08:40p





Following Ikoyi, another meal in London I was very curious about was A. Wong, a two-Michelin star rated Chinese restaurant. Now, I've had my fair share of Chinese food, but not at the two-star level, so I was certainly excited to see what they'd be serving here. The place is the brainchild of Chef/Owner Andrew Wong, and opened in 2012 at an address that previously held Kym's (a.k.a. 金滿楼), an eatery that was actually run by his parents.

About the Chef: Wong was born in London in 1982, and spent his childhood years between there and Hong Kong, where his parents Albert and Annie immigrated from (the "A" in A. Wong actually refers to their names). His grandfather was a restaurateur, and operated a couple of public houses in the East End as well as a restaurant on Gerrard Street in Chinatown. His parents were also in the industry, and ran pubs and takeaway eateries before opening a Chinese spot called Kym's (named after Wong's grandmum) in 1985. The Chef grew up in his parents' restaurants, and was taught Chinese cookery by both his mother and grandmother, but did not initially pursue a career in hospitality.

Wong did well in school, and after performing strongly on his GCSE and A-level exams, was able to attend the University of Oxford, majoring in chemistry, but only stayed there for about a year and a half. When his father passed away in 2003, he (and now-wife Nathalie Wong) was thrust back into the family business, helping to run their four restaurants. In 2005, he began studying social anthropology at the London School of Economics, graduating three years later, and later attained a degree from London South Bank University. Wong took evening culinary classes at Westminster Kingsway College from 2008 to 2011, and spent considerable time in China learning regional Chinese cooking; he also worked in a number of Western restaurants in London to broaden his range.

Armed with this newfound know-how (bolstered by the research of food anthropologist Dr. Mukta Das), the Chef re-opened Kym's as A. Wong in late 2012, with the goal of presenting his unique interpretations of Chinese cuisine. The place began building some momentum, and in 2014, it was awarded a Bib Gourmand by Michelin, while A. Wong: The Cookbook was released in September 2015. A Michelin star arrived in October 2017, and a second in January 2021, making A. Wong the first Chinese restaurant outside of Asia to hold the distinction.

As for other ventures, in January 2018, Wong debuted Baoshuan at The Oberoi hotel in New Delhi, and in October that year, he opened a second incarnation of Kym's, this time at 19 Bloomberg Arcade, with partners Chris Miller (White Rabbit Fund) and Terry Kuet. The place, which was originally supposed to be called Madame Wong, was focused on sīuméi, but sadly, shuttered in March 2020 due to the pandemic, and never recovered.


The dining room has been revamped from the Kym's days, and is centered around the bar and kitchen.


Shown here is my view from the far end of the bar.


I also ventured into the restaurant's Forbidden City bar, which is located downstairs and was the former waiting room for Kym's.


For dinner, the lone menu option is The Collections of China tasting, a 30-dish extravaganza priced at £200.00 ($244.44), plus 12.5% service. Wine pairings are available at £100 ($122.22) or £200 ($244.44), while the wine list can be seen here. Click for larger versions.


1: 鱼香生蠔 Scalded oysters with 'fish fragrant' aubergine sauce
Dishes at A. Wong are served in large groupings, and my first set comprised a whopping eight courses, of which this particular one was to be eaten first. The yú xiāng seasoning was front and center here, offering a growing spice that complemented the cool brine of the oyster without overwhelming it.


2: 醬炒豆 French beans, wasabi soy and osmanthus jelly
I was instructed to have this curious looking course next, and enjoyed how the sharp heat of the wasabi played with the mild, crunchy beans, all while the sweetness of osmanthus moderated it all.



3: 小甜薯 Yunnan sweet potato with tamarind and shrimp caramel
The remaining six courses could be eaten in any order, so I started with this roasted sweet potato, which was fortunately restrained in its sugariness, and possessed a nice tempering spice to boot. Even better were the sweet potato noodles, which were great texturally, and showed off a delightful nuttiness courtesy of the sesame.


A Wong Negroni [£15.00 ($18.33)] | Portobello Road No 171 Gin, Campari, Sweet Vermouth, Star Anise, Sichuan Pepper, Cinnamon, Smoke
I ended up going with cocktails this evening. This riff on the Negroni was super smoky on the nose, while flavors were deep and complex, with the drink's fruity, sour, and bitter notes overarched by the allure of sweet spices.


4: 蜜汁叉烧配鵝干 Cantonese honey roasted pork and grated foie gras
Cha siu demonstrated plenty of sweetness and sear, and was cleverly evened out by the foie gras, making for a surprisingly effective combination that I'd like to see more often, though I would've liked the pork served warmer. The candied walnuts were spot on, too.



5: 釀蟹鉗 Zhou dynasty cured scallop, stuffed crab claw
This rather gnarly looking dish was definitely a favorite of mine tonight. The stuffed claw was filled with a delectably sweet-n-saline crab and prawn mousse, while the tangle of roasted vermicelli noodles imparted both a shattery texture and a lovely smoke.


6: 千層叉燒帶子 Isle of Mull seared scallop and honey glazed Iberico char siu
A marriage of scallop and cha siu veered sweet, but not overly so, and somehow, I even detected a mintiness, while the delicate crispiness of the bite really appealed to me.


7: 老虎菜 'Tiger salad' with cumin lamb and split buttermilk
This "salad" course brought together juicy tomatoes with some assertively spiced meat, all set in an herb-infused buttermilk.


8: 冰鎮拍黃瓜 Chilled 'smacked' cucumber with trout roe, chilli, garlic vinegar
A reimagined version of the ubiquitous cold appetizer pāi huángguā paired cool, crunchy cuts of cucumber with an aggressively sweet, tangy, nutty heat.


9: 上海小籠包 Shanghai steamed dumplings, ginger infused vinegar
A quintet of dim sum-inspired dishes came out next. The xiǎo lóng bāo showed off a refined porkiness and a subdued piquancy from the vinegar (which was injected into the dumpling) that made for quite a balanced bite.


Shanghai [£16.00 ($19.56)] | Rémy Martin 1738 Accord Royal, Ginger, Green & Oolong Tea
This cognac-based cocktail was generally bright and punchy, though I would've liked to have tasted more from the advertised tea.


10: 點心 Dim sum duo
Two icons of dim sum were served together. The shumai had this atypically forceful xiánwèi that I appreciated, along with some nice textural variation. Meanwhile, a delicately-skinned har gow arrived topped with rice vinegar foam, and had this bright, apple-like sensation leading to the familiar brine of the shrimp.


11: 千年皮蛋配菜心 Choy sum with century egg
I was asked to enjoy this and the next course as palate cleansers ahead of the beef, and here, the pungency of pídàn was successfully offset by the brightness of cài xīn.


12: 四川木耳 Wood ear fungus
Mù'ěr had that slippery, crunchy texture I was looking for, while the fungus' mild taste was matched by both an herbiness and a sour, long-lasting heat.



13: 和牛生 Raw wagyu, fermented meat paste
A wagyu beef tartare ate sweet and earthy, with a marked mintiness, and matched up swimmingly with the much lighter flavors from the sliced pear.


14: 北京鸭 'Memories of Peking Duck', foie gras and smoked duck
Cherrywood-smoked duck captured the essence of the traditional dish pretty well, and I liked its "freshness" as well as the texture on the pancake wrapper. I was told to eat this in two bites, one with the caviar and one with the truffle, the latter of which was superior.


15: 素魚翅羹 'Why we don't need to eat Shark's fin soup'
Next up was a foursome of seafood dishes, with my favorite being this mock shark fin soup, which had the flossy, gelatinous consistency I wanted, while flavors were deeply familiar, savory, and satisfying. Per my server's direction, I also poured the soup on top of the abalone below, but this seemed unnecessary.


Gin and Tonic, Forbidden Den Blend [£13.00 ($15.89)] | Andrew's customised gin with our friends from the Portobello Road distillery with infusions of Sichuan peppercorns and dried tangerine
My third cocktail was a rejiggered G and T, which had all your classic notes, but in a more aromatic package thanks to the use of Sichuan pepper.


16: 白灵菇扒鲍片 Braised abalone, shitake mushroom, sea cucumber and abalone butter
A duet of abalone and sea cucumber was both supple yet crunchy, its gentle salinity matched by a bitter brightness while the shiitake added a touch more oomph to the dish.


17: 蒜茸蒸虾 Garlic steamed wild tiger prawn, mung bean noodles, superior soy
The steamed shrimp was beautifully textured, its sweetness matching seamlessly with the combo of soy, garlic, and ginger, all while the mung bean noodles imparted further textural interest. This was especially gratifying when taken with the provided white rice.


18: 红烧臭鳜鱼 Anhui province red braised fermented wild seabass
A tender cut of hóngshāo sea bass was crowned with a super crunchy, savory prawn cracker, on which I "painted" a sweet chili sauce.


19: 肉夹馍 Shaanxi pulled lamb 'burger' with Xinjiang pomegranate salad
Next came three "snacks," and I was asked to start with this riff on ròujiāmó. I scooped up the various components using the provided bread, and loved how everything just came together so perfectly in one bite, with that superbly spiced lamb melding easily with all the fruity, nutty, and spicy elements in the bowl. A highlight for sure.


20: 魚子醬豉油雞 'Soy chicken' with ginger oil and Oscietra caviar wrap
Meant to be dipped in the accompanying soy sauce, my second snack blended sweet and savory flavors with the punch of ginger and a bit of málà heat.


21: 手拉面 Pulled noodle cracker with Japanese wagyu and shrimp chilli oil
A shǒu lāmiàn cracker was a joy texturally, and came topped with woodsy king oyster mushrooms, wagyu, and a particularly inviting chili oil, though the beef wasn't all that apparent.


Peking duck 'Old fashioned' [£16.00 ($19.56)] | Johnny Walker Whiskey infused with traditional Peking duck fat and roasting spices, hoisin syrup, Angostura
My penultimate cocktail conveyed classic aromas, but with some unusually potent apple notes, while on the palate, the drink was thick and sweet and smoky, just hinting at its Peking duck inspiration.


22: 宫保雞丁 Gong Bao chicken, roasted peanuts and 'hot pot' essence
A reinterpreted Kung Pao chicken was another standout, really capturing the core of the classic dish. I loved the nuttiness and numbing heat of the bite, and how that all meshed with the zestiness of green onion, which chicken itself was on point as well.


23: 花椒㴝子 Nashi pear with Sichuan pepper
My final set of six savory dishes kicked off with this palate cleanser of sorts, which comprised a juicy slice of Asian pear dusted with Sichuan peppercorn.


24: 菊花豆腐 Chrysanthemum tofu, lemon grass broth
The chrysanthemum tofu had that soft, silky consistency I was looking for, while its broth was robustly flavored, with a chicken-y savor. The course was also served with a spoonful of zingy sauce on the side.


25: 薄荷牛肉卷 Yunnan seared beef with mint, chilli and lemongrass
This next course was meant to be eaten alongside the tofu above. I found the beef super tender, with a great counterpoint in the form of that wonderfully minty, herbaceous sauce.


26: 甜酸鸡 Sweet and sour corn-fed chicken, Thai basil, pineapple and candied walnuts
The tián suān jī showed off a polished sweet-n-sour character that linked up well with the various veggies, though the chicken really should've been hotter and crispier.


27: 雲南腸粉 Roasted cashew, tamarind, dried shrimp and coriander Cheung fun
Up next was essentially a thoroughly reworked rice noodle roll. I was certainly a fan of its sweet, nutty, savory flavors, and was especially fond of that crispy yóutiáo on top.


Henan [£15.00 ($18.33)] | Baijiu, Cherry Brandy, Elderflower, Orange Bitters, Mint
The evening's final cocktail was based on báijiǔ, and the spirit's earthy, "grain-y" flavors worked reasonably well with the drink's stone fruit notes, though I still can't say that I'm a fan of the stuff.




28: 碳燒八味椰菁 Young coconut with Madagascan black pepper sauce
This may have been the most intriguing bite of the night. Think deeply savory, augmented by the musk of black truffle, with the coconut imparting a much-needed sweetness and levity. Nice texture from that fried shiso leaf, too.



29a: cheese/fruit vinegar/chilli orange sorbet
Time for dessert. A caramelized walnut was topped with a funky blue cheese, and was subsequently softened by a shot of the accompanying prune vinegar. I also had some dragon's beard candy (not pictured), which had a fantastically feathery texture along with chocolate and fruit flavors.



29b: 草莓椰香燕窩 Coconut water ice, bird's nest, fermented coconut, dried mulberries, yoghurt and mochi
Dessert proper comprised coconut-flavored ice water with mulberries and a center of steamed bird's nest. I found the dish fresh, aromatic, sweet, and herbaceous, with a delightful array of textures.


30: 生果 'Fruits'– Homage to Enigma
The fruit course consisted of fig and a faux orange made with sugar, lime, jelly, and salt.


Petit four duties were handled by a tart raspberry chocolate, a rich banana caramel, and a rather saline salted caramel.


Along with dessert came a postcard, which the staff actually offered to mail for me. Click for larger version.

My experience here was quite unlike any other Chinese meal I've had. Wong's cooking is rooted in the classics, yet represents his own renditions of regional cuisine, and overall, I appreciated how I was able to explore a wide breadth of Chinese cookery in one dinner. And indeed, there were some real highlights tonight. However, I do have concerns with how the meal was structured. Serving up to eight dishes at once is not ideal. Both texture and temperature are going to be compromised, since the food is just sitting out longer, and in addition, I felt rushed trying to eat everything in a reasonable amount of time. Because of this, I'd actually recommend a reduction in the number of courses (30 is rather high as is), in order to make a standard service model more feasible.

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If you've read my report on The Waterside Inn, you'll be well informed about the role that the Roux brothers have played in the British dining scene over the past several decades. The brothers' first restaurant was, of course, Le Gavroche, which they opened in 1967 and which was the first restaurant in the UK to be awarded three Michelin stars, back in 1982. Unfortunately, shortly before my visit to England, it was announced that Le Gavroche would be closing in January 2024, as Chef Patron Michel Roux Jr is looking to retire from such a high-pressure environment. Given that we're talking about an end of an era, I was hoping to secure reservations prior to the shutter, but alas, everything was all booked up. Thus, after my meal at A. Wong, I settled on just having a drink in the restaurant's ruby-hued bar/lounge area and seeing the space for my first and final time.


Shown above is Le Gavroche's selection of cocktails, beers, ciders, and sundry other beverages, all presented on a tablet, somewhat surprisingly given the old school nature of the place. Click for larger versions.


Champagne Cocktail [£20.00 ($24.44)] | Champagne, Brandy, Sugar and Angostura Bitter
This seemed like an appropriate cocktail for the location and occasion. I found the drink quite fruity up front, but with countering citrusy and bittersweet notes and a dash of verve from the Champ. A very apt apéritif.


Complimentary snacks include almonds and what I believe were plantain chips.


Le Gavroche 18 [£20.00 ($24.44)] | Gavroche Gin, Grand Marnier, Champagne, Lime Twist
Another Champagne-based cocktail boasted loads of lime up, a bracing amount in fact, which then led to the citrusy, bittersweet kick of Grand Marnier, the bubbly providing an offsetting fizziness.


While I was enjoying my time at Le Gavroche, I perused the restaurant's electronic wine list. A couple things I noted: (1) I've never seen so many vintages of Le Pin; (2) the prices on DRC aren't bad at all. Click for larger versions.


Pomme Rol [£19.00 ($23.22)] | Aperol, Cidre Wignac, Peach Slice
Given that I'd already had quite a bit to drink, I ended the evening with a lighter cocktail, one with sweet, rich notes of apple, cut by bitterness and booziness.


I then headed downstairs for a peek of the main dining room.


Finally, the loo. I appreciated the individual cubby holes for the hand towels, but I did not appreciate the uncomfortably close positioning of the urinals.